Bay Magazine June 2023

SUNSHINE STATE OF MIND

FLORIDA TRAVEL ISSUE

TY SPECIALIS TS

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TIME TO GET OUT THERE

FROM BAY EDITOR SUSAN TAYLOR MARTIN

Floridians don’t always see eye to eye, but there’s one thing we can agree on: Florida is a great place to vacation. Even if you live here.

We don’t have mountains or canyons, but we do have rivers, lakes, springs, caves, waterfalls, the Everglades and beautiful beaches. We have worldclass resorts, Michelin-starred restaurants, fabulous museums and some of the planet’s most popular theme parks.

When it comes to recreation, culture and entertainment, it’s hard to beat Florida. That mix makes tourism our state’s No. 1 industry, responsible for supporting 1.7 million jobs, according to the official tourism marketing agency, Visit Florida. Some other notable figures:

• Florida welcomed 137.6 million visitors last year, a 5% increase from 2019, a record-breaking year.

• Florida had a 13.6% share of domestic overnight visitors in 2021, the largest share of any state.

• In 2021, nearly half of all overseas visitors to the United States came to Florida. That is the highest market share any state has ever received, including New York. Canada was the top international market for Florida, followed by the United Kingdom, Brazil, Colombia and Mexico.

In this special Florida travel issue we bypass the theme parks to take you to four lesser-known places in the state that still offer a host of activities in lovely settings. Have a happy road trip!

FLORIDA TRAVEL

13 KEY LARGO ▲ “Water tables,” swaying palms, spectacular sunsets and an underseas park beckon.

24 AMELIA ISLAND ▲ Plan a long weekend to fully enjoy the history and beauty of the northeast Florida gem.

32 NAPLES ▲ Treat yourself to fine dining, fine shopping, art gallery outings and a little pampering during your visit.

40 PENSACOLA ▲ After you’ve hit the beach, explore all the other things there are to see and do.

48 FOOD ▲ From the Panhandle to South Florida, indulge in iconic restaurant experiences at these three places.

▲ 56 SHOPPING

“I’ve missed this happy place,” collector-owner Carmen Barkett says of ArtsiPhartsi, which is open again in South Tampa.

62 SOCIAL SCENE

Cover illustration and above, Shutterstock

EDITOR

Susan Taylor Martin smartin@tampabay.com

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Nikki Life nlife@tampabay.com

COPY EDITOR Dawn Cate

FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER

Brian James, brian@brianjamesgallery.com

Bay is published eight times a year by Times Publishing Co. and delivered to Tampa Bay Times subscribers in select neighborhoods in Pinellas, Hillsborough and Pasco counties.

Copyright 2023. Vol. 16, No. 4.

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Pensacola Key Largo AHEADf un MILES OF

From the Florida Keys to the tip of the Panhandle, our beautiful state offers a bounty of places for a fabulous vacation. And with the crowds thinned out for the summer, now is a great time to explore Florida in all of

Amelia Island Naples

Shutterstock illustrations

TRAVEL Key Largo

A LOVELY ESCAPE

BY SUSAN TAYLOR MARTIN

Florida has many fine restaurants where you can dine by the water. This might be the only one where you can eat in the water — table, chairs, feet all in the clear, warm waters of Florida Bay.

On a recent visit to Key Largo, we watched the setting sun while seated at one of the “water tables” at Playa Largo Resort and Spa. “Look, there’s a horseshoe crab,” our server pointed out as it crawled past, its spiky tail leaving a distinctive trail in the sandy bottom just inches away.

A four-star resort that is part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection of hotels, Playa Largo is among the upscale resorts that have made Key Largo a popular destination for those who want a taste of the Florida Keys without driving another 100 miles to Key West. It is the largest key and the closest one to the mainland, less than five hours from the Tampa Bay area depending on traffic.

Playa Largo, opened in 2016 as the first resort constructed from scratch in more than two decades, covers 14.5 well-landscaped acres that were once a pineapple farm. Guests have access to a private beach, pool, several restaurants and a small marina. Because the resort is on the west side of Overseas Highway, the waters are generally calm and the sunsets spectacular.

The 178 accommodations include 10 bungalows and a three-bedroom

A woman snorkels near the Christ of the Abyss statue. The bronze statue was submerged in the waters of Key Largo in 1965. Shutterstock

can get cozy at Playa Largo’s beachside fire pit and even roast marshmallows at night.

Guests at Playa Largo Resort and Spa can dine at a “water table” in the waters of Florida Bay. Photo courtesy of Playa Largo Resort and Spa

The amenities at Playa Largo include a pool and private beach on Florida Bay. Scott Baker Photography, Playa Largo Resort and Spa

You

Photo by Susan Taylor Martin bay

beach house, most with views of either the bay or the tropical gardens where green iguanas can be spotted scurrying up the palm trees. Our large room, in a three-story building near the pool, had a seating area, a rain shower head and a generously sized balcony. At cocktail hour we took a quick stroll to Sol by the Sea, an open-air restaurant and bar with a beach shack vibe. My husband had what he called “the best Caesar ever” while I ordered a delicious crab risotto topped with tilapia and grilled shrimp.

After dinner we settled ourselves into lounge chairs on the beach as the sky turned pink and purple. Up by the pool bar, a guitarist played old favorites including, of course, “Key Largo.” (“We had it all, just like Bogie and Bacall...”) As night fell, a hotel staffer lit a fire pit and set up a table with marshmallows for roasting. A nice, unexpected touch.

The next morning we enjoyed a rare breakfast in bed, delivered in what must have been a room service record of eight minutes. Although Playa Largo has enough amenities and water sports “that you never have to leave,” as the resort touts, we wanted to check out other parts of Key Largo.

Toward the north end of the key is John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, named for the Miami Herald journalist who crusaded to protect the area’s beautiful reefs. The nation’s first underseas park, it is ranked as one of the best state parks and is surely among the

largest — it includes about 70 nautical miles of adjacent Atlantic Ocean waters.

Entering the park cost $9 for the two of us in a car and entitled us to use any of three beaches. We passed on those but enjoyed the visitors center with its aquarium and terrific 50-minute film on the animal life of the reef. The park, which also has a gift and sundries shop, offers kayaking, paddleboarding, fishing and glass bottom boat tours to the reef. The

park’s boat was out of service so we headed back down the Overseas Highway to find another one.

The tour we chose cost $45 per person and lasted two hours on a boat with a snack bar that serves alcoholic and nonalcoholic specialty drinks. It took 45 minutes to get to the reef, at which point the boat stopped and rocked in the choppy waters. We peered through the glass at the

Fish swim near a coral reef in John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. Shutterstock

sandy bottom 20 feet below and the fuzzy looking sections of reef. Sadly, as the guide noted, much of the reef has been destroyed due to natural and human factors. Not much could be seen. Still, it was an enjoyable boat ride on a pleasant day.

Also popular in Key Largo is swimming with dolphins. There are several dolphin encounters, but when we asked a staffer at John Pennekamp to recommend one, she

got a stern look on her face and said: “I never recommend anything with captive animals.” So it was back to Playa Largo, where I got in the bay and lazily floated around for an hour in the bathtub warm water. No dolphins, just a few curious little fish.

That evening we took off our sandals and waded down to our water table. Depending on the number of reservations, the resort will set up as many as four water tables a night

but this time we were the only ones dining al fresco en agua. Our server — wearing waterproof shoes, he told us — brought a Caesar for my husband and a lobster roll for me. Another fine meal, another beautiful sunset.

For more information about Playa Largo Resort and Spa, visit playalargoresort.com. To learn more about Key Largo, go to keylargochamber. org.

This is an aerial view of John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. Shutterstock

Playa Largo Resort and Spa covers 14.5 acres on Florida Bay. Photo courtesy of Playa Largo Resort and Spa

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Amelia Island

AN ENTICING MIX

BY KRIS HUNDLEY

When I lived in the Tampa Bay area, I loved exploring the Gulf Coast’s barrier islands, from Caladesi to Captiva. Now that I’m in northeast Florida, I’ve discovered their Atlantic Coast counterparts. My favorite is Amelia Island, just south of the Georgia

border, at the mouth of the St. Marys River.

About a morning’s drive from Tampa Bay, Amelia feels like another world entirely. Like many barrier islands, Amelia has miles of pristine beaches, luxury resorts and recreational activities, from golfing to kayaking to horseback riding on the beach. But what sets Amelia apart from others is the inescapable feeling that you’re part

of history — just one more in a long line of travelers passing through this stretch of sand and oaks.

First came the Timucuans, who fished Amelia’s waters more than 1,000 years ago. Then the French, Spanish, English, even a delusional Scotsman vied for control of the island with its protected, deep-water harbor. Pirates, slave ships and smugglers

Shrimp boats dock at the harbor in Fernandina Beach on Amelia Island. Photos courtesy of ameliaisland.com

sailed Amelia’s coastline. Confederate, then Union soldiers stood watch during the Civil War at a brick fort on the island’s northern edge. And in the late 1800s, newly minted millionaires came by steamship to the seaport of Fernandina Beach, building Victorian mansions as winter getaways.

Visitors can tap into a bit of this rich history by stopping at landmarks like the Palace Saloon on Centre Street in Fernandina. Just a block from the Intracoastal, the Palace is Florida’s oldest bar, serving sailors, ship captains and civilians since 1903. You can take a selfie with the life-size pirate statue at the swinging doors, then belly up to the 40-foot mahogany bar. But don’t stay too long. Amelia has too much to offer.

While in Fernandina, you can meander through a dozen or so blocks of independently owned boutiques, antique stores and art galleries. Sober up a bit

with coffee from Amelia Island Coffee, get the kids some sugar down the block at Fantastic Fudge, then duck around the corner to Villa Villekulla Toy store. (If that name reminds you of Pippi Longstocking, ask the owner about the local connection.) While the small people are perusing the toys, adults can chat with local artists at the gallery upstairs.

When hunger strikes, options abound in the historic district. On the weekend, have a fried green tomato BLT for brunch on Leddy’s Porch at the Florida House Inn. Any day of the week, pick up a fish taco at Timoti’s Seafood Shak or enjoy shrimp and grits on the patio at Cafe Karibo. For a candlelight dinner, reserve a spot at Le Clos, a 1906 cottage serving French cuisine. Or wander a few blocks north of the hubbub for Asian street food at the Wicked Bao, where the owner welcomes you like an old friend.

End your day with a ghost tour or live music on the porch at the Green Turtle Tavern. Or get cheap thrills by walking the public docks, ogling megayachts as they fuel up before heading back into the Atlantic. You can also make plans to get on the water yourself by booking a fishing or sailing charter, taking a Cumberland Island tour or renting Go-Cat boats, which look like minicatamarans.

When you’ve had enough of commerce, head east down Atlantic Avenue toward the ocean side of Amelia. If you’ve still got the history bug, stop at Fort Clinch to get a sense of what life was like for a soldier in the Civil War. Birders might catch a glimpse of roseate spoonbills nesting along nearby Egans Creek.

Follow the coast south along 13 miles of beaches, past bike paths, nature trails and dozens of golf courses. Watch for the

Amelia Island is known for its beautiful beaches, including American Beach, a haven for African Americans during the Jim Crow era.

signs for American Beach, an oceanfront haven for African Americans during the Jim Crow era of segregation. And be sure to give yourself time on the way home to stop at Kingsley Plantation, about a half-hour south of the island. The oldest standing plantation house in Florida, Kingsley was managed for years by the owner’s Africanborn wife, a former slave.

If you’re planning a trip to Amelia, make it a long weekend and treat yourself to a stay at one of the oceanside resorts, like the RitzCarlton Amelia or the Omni Amelia Island Resort. Or stay in the historic district in a Victorian mansion like the Williams House Bed & Breakfast.

The local tourist bureau’s website has links to lodging, shops and restaurants. It also has info on special events like the Amelia Concours for auto enthusiasts in March, the annual shrimp festival in May and the “Dickens on Centre” holiday fest in December. These events attract big crowds, so plan ahead to avoid disappointment.

For more information about Amelia Island, go to ameliaisland.com.

In addition to Atlantic beaches, Amelia Island has many marshes.

Visitors to Fort Clinch on Amelia Island can get a taste of what life was like for soldiers during the Civil War. Photos courtesy of ameliaisland.com

Historic downtown Fernandina Beach has a variety of shops and restaurants.

Boats of all kind dock at the marina in Fernandina Beach.

Under the Spell of the Palm Tree THE RICE COLLECTION OF CUBAN ART

By DulceM.Román

Visit theHarn Museum of Artatthe UniversityofFlorida to viewthe exhibition Under the Spell of the Palm Tree: TheRiceCollection of Cuban Art, organized in collaboration with TheCuban Arts Group

Under the Spell of the Palm Tree: TheRice Collection of Cuban Art is drawnexclusively from the collection of Susie and Mitchell Rice and offersaglimpse intothe complexityof cultureand history that has inspired Cuban artthroughout the 20th century and intothe 21st century.Guest curatorsGabriela Azcuy and David Horta utilizethe work of abroad rangeofartists in the RiceCollection to displayaninclusiveviewofCuban art, reflecting on its current dynamic and the existenceof newgeographies as an essential partofits reality. Through morethan 70 worksrepresenting 53 artists, the exhibition presents the

PedroPablo Oliva, Martí de blanco(Martí in White),fromthe series Utopías ydisidencias (Utopias and Dissidences),2010, Collection of Susie and Mitchell Rice

narrativeofa“crossing”—a virtual crossing of the seas as well as acrossing of generations, of artists living or having lived both in Cuba and in the diaspora. Artists rangefrom modern masterssuch as Mario Carreño and Wifredo Lam, to contemporary artists José Bedia, Belkis Ayón, and Esterio Segurawho have gained internationalvisibility.

Located in Gainesville, Florida, the Harn Museum of Artuses the powerofthe visual arts to open conversations about our shared cultural history and pressing contemporary issues through exhibitions, collections, scholarship and programming of the highest caliber.The artonviewfeatures specialtravelingexhibitions and the Harn’scollection of African, Asian, modern and contemporary art,

and photography. Exhibitions rotatefrequently,providingopportunities to see newworks during every visit and to showcase the Harn’s permanent collection of morethan 13,300 artworks.

Under the Spell of the Palm Tree: TheRice Collection of Cuban Art is on viewfromJuly 11, 2023 to Jan. 7, 2024.Educational programs, artactivities, tours, performances and alectureonOct. 19 by artist José Bedia will be offered in conjunction with the exhibition. The exhibition is funded in partby VisitGainesville, Alachua County. Admission to the Harn Museum of Artisfree. To learn moreabout the Harn and upcoming exhibitions, visit www.harn.ufl.edu or followthe museum on social media @harnmuseumofart.

,Harn Museum of ArtChief Curatorand CuratorofModern Art

Mario Carreño, La Finca (The Farm),1945, Collection of Susie and Mitchell Rice

Naples

A TOUCH OF CLASS

BY CINDY COCKBURN

Naples has my heart. Sometimes my New York City soul longs for a sophisticated shopping and dining “slice of paradise” a la Madison Avenue, Worth Avenue or to find that Rodeo Drive je ne sais quoi vibe. What a fab girlfriend getaway, and less than three hours south of St. Petersburg.

After Hurricane Ian hit, Naples was temporarily turned upside down. Today, restaurants are booming, shops are crowded and award-winning chefs are designing new menus. The Naples Art District is back, showcasing over 125 art studios, museums and galleries. The key to a relaxing getaway: Book hotel and restaurant reservations well in advance.

If you want to sleep in the heart of it all, make reservations for the Inn on Fifth at 699 Fifth Ave. S. Upon arrival, your car is whisked off at valet and you can use a complimentary Tesla X (with “wings” that open up as doors) to explore the town for the next 24 hours. The hotel is also oh-sowalkable to explore over 30 restaurants, 50 shops, galleries, theaters and the beach.

The Ritz-Carlton Beach Resort has been

Fifth Avenue in downtown Naples is known for its high-end shopping. Photo courtesy of Naples, Marco Island, Everglades CVB

closed since the storm. That hurt. It will reopen this summer and debut its “Evolution of an Icon” featuring a new lobby, bar, three new dining spots, pool and guest rooms. The new Ritz-Carlton Club Lounge will span 4,000 square feet with dramatic-floor-to-ceiling ocean views, and the spa will offer over-the-top pampering.

The Ritz-Carlton Naples, Tiburón, a golf resort a few miles from the beach, offers an outdoor adventure for families called the “RESERVOIR” with waterslides, a winding

lazy river and splash zones. The Ritz Kids Golf Clinics offer instruction for the little ones. Since we were staying here for a girls getaway, we didn’t love the fact that we had a 20-minute journey back and forth to town but did thoroughly enjoy the pampering at the Ritz-Carlton Club Lounge.

The intimate Escalante, a four-star hotel a block from the beach in downtown Naples, is a hidden romantic gem with just 11 bungalows. Enjoy the Veranda E restaurant for al fresco dining in a lush tropical setting.

Our happy hour tradition: a chocolate martini at Ocean Prime and then dinner at the landmark eatery called Campiello, a restaurant staple of Naples’s Third Street South for 25 years. The Vine Room has a sexy speakeasy vibe where you feel like Frank Sinatra could walk in any minute as guests sip a smoky cocktail.

Del Mar Naples serves a classic 5th Avenue Margarita and Bar Tulia offers The Espresso Martini. The best mojitos are at Molto Trattoria. Rebecca’s Wine Bar

Naples is a colorful city, with a wealth of activities. Shutterstock

wows with a new 40-foot wine bar and charcuterie room.

A local food critic friend offers other tips: BICE, The Capital Grille, D’Amicos The Continental and Chops City Grill. Andre’s Steak House is the closest thing to Brooklyn’s Peter Luger’s.

For seafood, you can’t beat the ambience and music at Truluck’s, and SAILS is also exceptional. For Italian it’s the Amore Ristorante. Locals love Trattoria Angela, run by owners Enrico and Angela from Naples, Italy.

And when in town, we always say hello to Chef Fabrizio and Ingrid Aielli, owners of Sea Salt (the “sister” restaurant of the one at Sundial in St. Petersburg).

The focus of life in Naples is the two main districts: Fifth Avenue South and Third Street South.

My girlfriend and I head to Naples every year to get a jump on holiday gifts and go straight to BRUNO for a unique variety: Baccarat and Gianni Versace to Izipizi

glasses only found in Paris.

Yamron jewelers has been in business for over 50 years and is the only authorized Patek Philippe dealer on the west coast of Florida. Waterside Shops has other luxury brands: Rolex, Tiffany, Swarovski, Gucci,

Louis

Head to the waterfront Village Shops on Venetian Bay, where you can shop at an array of stores or dine at any of the six restaurants. But for children’s clothing, try LuLu Belle in the Mercato mall.

Vuitton and Van Cleef & Arpels.

The sun sets over the gulf at Vanderbilt Beach in Naples. Shutterstock

The Naples Zoo at Caribbean Gardens is a popular spot for families with children. Photo by Susan Taylor Martin

If you are traveling with the kids, check out the Naples Zoo at Caribbean Gardens, with lions, kangaroos and more. To explore the waterfront and its magnificent homes, The Naples Princess offers daily cruises, and the popular sunset dinner cruise is a local favorite.

Traveling to Naples in the winter? Pack the gowns and jewels; residents take the social season here very seriously. The international Naples Winter Wine Festival attracts visitors from around the globe to one of the nation’s top charity auctions in the world. Last February, guests raised $25 million in one evening to benefit the Naples Children and Education Foundation. The next date is the weekend of Jan. 26, 2024, at the Ritz-Carlton Naples, Tiburón.

Free fun: Count the Ferraris at a Cars and Coffee gathering the first Saturday of every month. It’s hosted by Naples Motorsports, one of the top exotic car dealers in the USA.

For more information about Naples, go to paradisecoast.com.

The “RESERVOIR” at the Ritz-Carlton Naples, Tiburón has waterslides, a winding lazy river and splash zones. Photo courtesy of the Ritz-Carlton Naples

availabili ty, ar tis t’s renderings, dime nsion s, sp ec if ic ation s, and fe at ur es ar e subjec t to change at any time wi thou t notic e.

The pr ojec t de sc ribe d her ein (the “Proje ct ”) and the re sidential unit s lo ca te d wi thin the Pr ojec t (the “Resid en tial Unit s”) ar e not ow ne d, develope d, or sold by Pendry In tellec tual Pr op er ty Holding Comp any, LLC or any of it s re sp ec tive af filiates (c olle ctively, “Pendry”), an d Pendry doe s not make any re pr esent ation s, war rantie s or guaran ties what soever wi th re sp ec t to the Re sidential Unit s, the Pr ojec t or any part ther eof. TRD Ri verwalk Developer LLC us es the PEND RY br and name and cert ain other Pendry trad emar ks (c olle ctively, the “Trademar ks”) in connec tion wi th the sale s and marketing of the Re sidential Unit s in the Pr ojec t un der a limi te d, non- exclusive and non- sublic en sable license fr om Pendry The foregoing license may be ter mina te d or may ex pire w ithout renewal in whic h ca se neither the Re sidential Unit s nor any part of the Projec t will be id entif ie d as a PEND RY-brand ed pr ojec t or have any rights to us e the Trademar ks Ar tist ’s Conc eptual Renderings Subjec t to Change.

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FLORIDA TRAVEL Pensacola

BEACH AND BEYOND

BY DAKOTA PARKS

At the western end of Florida’s Panhandle, the Pensacola Bay area is known for its white sand beaches and serene turquoise waters, home to the world’s largest artificial reef — the U.S.S. Oriskany — and abundant wildlife. The Gulf Islands National Seashore, stretching along both sides of Pensacola Beach, is the longest protected seashore in the United States and has routinely earned the title of Florida’s best beach. Visitors flock here to fish, swim, snorkel, bike and boat.

But Pensacola is more than just sun and sand. With a bustling downtown, vibrant art and cultural offerings and more than 450 years of history — from pre-Civil War

forts to a historic district that captures the turbulent saga of America’s first Spanish settlement — there is plenty to do and see.

SHOP DOWNTOWN

Palafox Street, in the heart of downtown, is lined with restaurants, boutiques, shops and artisan markets that evoke the ambience of New Orleans. Every Saturday morning, the Palafox Market at Martin Luther King Jr. Plaza draws thousands of visitors who come to browse the booths of local produce, handmade crafts and artisanal foods while sipping on coffee. Gallery Night Pensacola, held the third Friday of every month from 5 to 10 p.m., is another beloved fixture. Through traffic is halted as artists, vendors, nonprofits and food trucks converge on Palafox Street.

450 YEARS OF HISTORY

Get a glimpse into the city’s past as you tour the streets of Historic Pensacola Village, site of the original Spanish and British forts in downtown Pensacola. One ticket grants access to all of the museums in the district, which encompasses 9 acres and 30 historic properties including the Pensacola Museum of History, the children’s

museum and several historic homes staged with artifacts and period-specific furniture. Visitors can also explore the sprawling brick battlements and labyrinth of arched tunnels of Fort Pickens, a pre-Civil War-era fort on Pensacola Beach.

The National Naval Aviation Museum, at Naval Air Station Pensacola, is a mustvisit attraction for aviation enthusiasts and history buffs. The museum showcases an impressive collection of aircraft, spacecraft and artifacts.

THE ART SCENE

Pensacola has a thriving arts scene with annual art festivals such as Foo Foo Fest and the Great Gulfcoast Arts Festival, monthly art strolls, revolving public art displays and a full calendar of events from professional groups like the Pensacola Opera, the Pensacola Symphony Orchestra and Ballet Pensacola. Visitors can enjoy a variety of shows at the Pensacola Little Theatre, a community theater downtown that is home to a long-standing LGBTQ+ film festival, musical theater productions and the uproarious antics of an improv comedy group. If you’re interested in visual arts, head to the Pensacola Museum of Art or Artel Gallery, both of which feature curated exhibits from local and national artists.

Top: The protected Gulf Islands National Seashore stretches along both sides of Pensacola Beach. Shutterstock

Bottom: Crowds flock to downtown Pensacola for gallery night, one of many art events. Photo courtesy of Gallery Night Pensacola

PENSACOLA BAY FERRIES

If you want to see the city from a different perspective, hop on a Pensacola Bay City ferry. One ferry takes passengers on a scenic tour of Pensacola Bay past historic landmarks like Fort Pickens, and depending on the time of year, provides good views of the Blue Angels practicing aerial stunts. Guests can also take a ferry to Fort Pickens, where National Park Service rangers lead tours of two to three hours in length. The tours are a great way to learn about the history and ecology of Pensacola.

For those looking for a stress-free beach trip without the hassle of traffic and parking, another ferry runs directly from downtown Pensacola to Pensacola Beach and back. You can even catch a glimpse of dolphins and other marine life. Many local tour and charter boat companies also offer dolphin encounters.

THE FOOD SCENE

Pensacola is known for its seafood, and there are plenty of restaurants serving it fresh and locally sourced. One must-visit spot: Joe Patti’s Seafood, a market and restaurant that’s been a Pensacola staple for over 90 years. In addition to shrimp, crab, oysters and other fresh seafood, it offers specialty items like alligator and Cajun boudin, a type of sausage.

For some of the best Italian food in town, try Bonelli’s homemade pasta dishes. George Bistro & Bar is another standout option with a menu of innovative Southern dishes. Vegan travelers won’t want to miss downtown Pensacola’s End of the Line Café, which serves vegan pastries, jackfruit sandwiches, burritos, kombucha, coffee and craft beer. And for what many consider the best burger in Pensacola, visit Blue Dot Barbeque, a family-owned restaurant first opened in 1946 in the historic BelmontDeVilliers district.

If those local gems aren’t enough, check out the Seville Savories Food Tour. It offers

tours through downtown to sample some of the best food and coffee while learning about the area’s culinary history.

ENTERTAINMENT

When the sun goes down, Pensacola boasts a vibrant nightlife scene. The city’s downtown area is home to many bars, clubs and music venues. The Vinyl Music Hall is a popular spot for live

music, featuring local as well as big-name national touring acts. Seville Quarter, another popular club, has seven rooms with different themes, including a dueling piano bar, a sports bar, an outdoor patio bar featuring live music and a dance club. If you’re looking for a more low-key evening, check out some of the city’s 13 craft breweries.

For more information about Pensacola, go to visitpensacola.com.

Historic Pensacola Village revisits 450 years. Photo courtesy of the University of West Florida

The National Naval Aviation Museum, at Naval Air Station Pensacola, is a must-see for aviation enthusiasts and history buffs. Shutterstock

Fort Pickens, which is named for an American Revolutionary war hero, is a popular Pensacola Beach attraction. Shutterstock

The Pensacola area is famous for its white sand beaches and turquoise waters. Photo courtesy of Visit Florida

ok No Fu rt he r

Treasured

SAVOR THESE ICONIC FLORIDA RESTAURANT EXPERIENCES.

JOE’S STONE CRAB.

O’STEEN’S RESTAURANT.

McGUIRE’S IRISH PUB.

BY SUSAN TAYLOR MARTIN

Tampa boasts two of Florida’s most iconic restaurants: Bern’s, consistently ranked as one of the nation’s best steakhouses, and Columbia, which pays homage to its claim as Florida’s oldest restaurant with its 1905 Salad. As you travel elsewhere in the state, here are three other legendary restaurants to try.

Joe’s Stone Crab in Miami Beach ships stone crabs throughout the United States. Photo courtesy of the Greater Miami Convention and Visitors Bureau

O’Steen’s Restaurant has been a fixture in St. Augustine since the 1960s. Photo courtesy of Timmy Colee

McGuire’s Irish Pub in Pensacola features traditional Irish food and live music. Photo by Dakota Parks

JOE’S STONE CRAB, MIAMI BEACH

Joe’s is arguably Florida’s most famous restaurant. It’s the kind of place where decades later customers still vividly recall the first time they beheld those wondrous mounds of cracked crab claws.

“In 1975 I was 18,” wrote Buddy Mazzenga of Springfield, Pennsylvania, one of hundreds of customers who have contributed memories to the restaurant’s website. “(On a trip to Miami) we went to Joe’s Stone Crab and what I remember most was the waiter carrying a tray of claws that seemed like it was 36 inches wide stacked with claws 24 inches high.”

“Joe” was Joseph Weiss, a Hungarian-born immigrant who moved from New York to Florida for health reasons in 1913. He first ran a lunch stand on Miami Beach, then in 1918 he and his wife, Jennie, started what for eight years would be the only restaurant on the beach. Among the customers was gangster Al Capone, who went by the name Al Brown.

According to a history of the restaurant, Jennie heard someone mention that “Brown” was actually the gangster. One night she walked up to him and said: “Mr. Brown, you’ve always been a gentleman and anytime you want to come into this restaurant you can.” That so touched Capone that every Mother’s Day a truck pulled up with flowers and a banner saying “Good Luck Mother Joe’s.”

The restaurant attracted a well-heeled crowd, drawn by a variety of fish and meat dishes but no stone crabs. Joe was convinced no one would eat them until a Harvard scientist doing marine research in the area brought a sack full of live crabs into the restaurant one day.

“My dad threw the stone crabs into boiling water and that was the beginning,” Joe’s son Jesse recalled. “The bay was full of them! When we started serving them chilled and cracked with hashbrown potatoes, coleslaw and mayonnaise, they were an instant success.”

With the charismatic Jesse eventually taking over from his parents, Joe’s became a must

stop for everyone famous who came to Miami — the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Gloria Swanson, Joseph Kennedy, J. Edgar Hoover. It continues to attract celebrities but also tourists and locals celebrating special occasions.

The cavernous restaurant serves fresh stone crabs during the season, which runs Oct. 15 to May 1; frozen ones are available the rest

Almost every square inch of McGuire’s Irish Pub in Pensacola is covered with $1 bills signed by customers. Photo by Dakota Parks

of the year. Prices range from $49.95 for medium-sized crabs to $134.95 for jumbos. (The original price was 75 cents for four or five crabs.) The menu includes fish, steak and chicken dishes, and you can bring your own wine for a $20 corkage fee.

For those who can’t make it to Joe’s, crabs can be shipped overnight. Among the happy customers has been Karen Gordon of Salt Lake City, who wrote:

“Christmas Eve dinner at our house! Nobody ever comes to dinner for the company ham I fix! They do not come for the potatoes. Not even the presents! We’re from Utah. We have a lot of siblings and they all come for the crab! Thanks Joe’s for doing such a great job making our Christmas special.”

11 Washington Ave., Miami Beach. joesstonecrab.com.

O’STEEN’S RESTAURANT, ST. AUGUSTINE

O’Steen’s motto is “Famous Southern Fare,” and Southern it is with hush puppies and chicken gizzards. But this small, unpretentious restaurant is especially beloved for its fried seafood including oysters, shrimp and scallops with homemade sides and pies.

“If you think you have a reservation and want to pay by credit card you are in the wrong place,” reads one of many five-star reviews. “If you want great food from an independent restaurant, not a chain of restaurants, this is your place. Good food, good service and busy all the time because people like it so much.”

As an independent restaurant, O’Steen’s has a few quirks — it’s closed Sundays and Mondays and is cash only. Prices are moderate, with many seafood dishes under $20. There’s no beer or wine, only tea, coffee, milk, soft drinks and pink lemonade.

Osteen’s was started in 1965 by Robert and Virginia Osteen. He had worked at the Florida

East Coast Railway until it went on strike. Figuring the strike wouldn’t end soon, the couple went into the restaurant business. The menu has remained relatively the same over the decades, and many of the employees have worked there for more than 20 years.

205 Anastasia Blvd., St. Augustine. osteensrestaurant.com.

McGUIRE’S IRISH PUB, PENSACOLA

If O’Steen’s is the epitome of an alcohol-free family restaurant, McGuire’s is the opposite — an establishment that touts its “feasting, imbibery, debauchery.”

Opened in a shopping center in 1977 as a neighborhood pub, McGuire’s moved five years later to Pensacola’s original 1927 firehouse. The 615-seat restaurant is decorated like a turn-of-the-century New York Irish saloon. What makes it unique are the more than 1 million $1 bills signed by customers and covering almost every inch of

the walls and ceiling.

Adding to the touristy feel is a gift shop with McGuire’s T-shirts, caps, shot glasses and the like. But the restaurant, which offers live Irish music, won a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence last year. It has been featured on “The Today Show,” is in Florida Trend’s Hall of Fame and comes “highly recommended” by AAA and other travel guides.

Relative bargains are to be had early in the day — $9.99 lunch specials — and from 11 p.m. to closing time with half-price draft beer and house wine. The extensive menu features traditional Irish dishes like lamb stew and shepherd’s pie, and befitting McGuire’s claim as “one of America’s great steakhouses,” there are USDA-certified prime steaks.

Customers can also choose from among 20 types of burgers and try for the Alka-Seltzer Award. Eat three burgers and get a McGuire’s T-shirt — and an Alka-Seltzer.

600 E Gregory St., Pensacola. mcguiresirishpub. com. There is also a McGuire’s Irish Pub in Destin at 33 U.S. 98.

O’Steen’s Restaurant in St. Augustine is especially beloved for its fried seafood. Photo courtesy of Timmy Colee

to call home.

Ritz-Carlton Residences, Tampa are not owned, developed or sold by The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, L. L.C. Tampa Bay Oaks Condo Ph 2, LLC uses The Ritz-Carlton marks under license from The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, L. L.C.

Oral representations cannot be relied upon as correc tly stating representations of the developer. For correc t representations, make reference to this brochure and the documents required by sec tion 718. 503, Florida statutes, to be furnished by a developer to a buyer or lessee This Condominium is developed by Tampa Bay Oaks Condo PH 2, LLC (“Developer”) and this of fering is made only by the Developer ’s Prospectus for the Condominium This of fering is not direc ted to any resident of a jurisdic tion in which this of fering is prohibited by law. Developer, pursuant to license or marketing agreements with each, has a right to use the trade names, marks, and logos of: The Related Group and of Marriott International, Inc., both of which are Licensors only and neither of which is the Developer. Consult the Prospectus for all terms, conditions, and unit specifications and to learn what is included with purchase. This condominium is not oceanfront ; the sight line of the tower depicted is conceptual and situated with frontage along S Ysabella Ave in Tampa. This ad is summar y in nature generally depicting The Ritz-Carlton Residences, Tampa and Developer’s contemplated features and amenities, all of which is subject to change or modification by Developer. The Ritz-Carlton® is the registered trademark of Marriott International, Inc. 2022© Tampa Bay Oaks Condo Phase 2, LLC with all rights reserved The Ritz-Carlton Residences, Tampa are not owned, developed or sold by The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, L. L.C. or it s af filiates (“ Ritz-Carlton”) Tampa Bay Oaks Condo Phase

LLC uses The

marks under a license from Marriott International, Inc. which has not confirmed the accurac y of any of the statement s or representations made herein

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After a 16-year

break, Carmen Barkett has reopened ArtsiPhartsi in South Tampa. Works at the gallery include “Hallelujah Lady,” a 9-foot-tall wood sculpture by Sticks Studio.

ART

TAMPA’S BELOVED ARTSIPHARTSI GALLERY IS BACK IN BUSINESS.

BY AMY SCHERZER PHOTOS BY IVY CEBALLO

It’s hard to tell who’s more excited to see the revival of ArtsiPhartsi — collector-owner Carmen Barkett or the contemporary craft devotees, ecstatic that the gallery is back 16 years after she closed to focus on family and community service. People popped in constantly during the renovation, said Barkett, standing amid beautifully crafted mosaics, ceramics, glass, jewelry, metals, wall art and furniture displayed in a 102-year-old bungalow, a former South Tampa hair salon, at 4002 S MacDill Ave.

“Every day I heard there is nothing like this in Tampa,” said Barkett, who selects fine, fun and funky works from artisans throughout the United States.

“I’ve missed this happy place. Everything is handmade. You feel the energy of anyone who had an idea and turned it into a unique art piece,” she said. “It’s something special I’ve always felt and can’t describe, but people get it.”

Inevitably, when Barkett falls in love with something, so do the clients.

“When I buy things, my criteria is, if I had to close tomorrow, would it be perfect in my house,” Barkett said. “Not a great business model, but it’s the truth.”

ArtsiPhartsi is a treasure trove of handmade art, from a beaded, mosaic penguin by Cassie Edmonds to a lamp by Laney Oxman, upper right.

Prices range from $7 for stationery cards to a pair of $28,000 ceramic vases.

“I’ve always liked pretty things,” she said, flashing back to buying fine linens with the money she earned from her newspaper route at age 11.

“I feel like I’m surrounded by friends when I come inside,” said Barkett, pointing out a few favorite pieces: a lion’s head crafted of agave

fibers by St. Petersburg’s Anne Andersson; a beaded, mosaic penguin and a bejeweled owl wearing bronze baby shoes by Cassie Edmonds of Tyler, Texas; and Sticks Studio furniture made of tree trunks painted with vivid imagery and whimsical sayings.

The original ArtsiPhartsi opened in 1991 in a small cottage a few blocks north of the current location, “despite being told I couldn’t say ‘Phart’ in public,” Barkett said with a wink.

By 1998, the gallery had expanded into a 12-room Victorian home on Kennedy Boulevard, west of downtown Tampa. The American Craft Council and Niche magazine took note of Barkett’s creative merchandising, promoting the store as a national destination for fine craft.

“Anyone who knows me knows ArtsiPhartsi was my baby,” said Barkett, who holds a business degree from Eckerd College.

Closing in 2007 was difficult, but Barkett wanted to travel with husband Harry, president of Amalie Oil Co., and serve on the boards of the Florida Aquarium and Moffitt Cancer Center, among others.

Still, she kept in touch with the artisans and squeezed in time to judge several fine craft shows and take classes in ceramics, drawing and jewelry making.

“When I first walked into the original ArtsiPhartsi, I discovered many of the things I’ve collected from galleries around the country were right here,” said Karen Kruglick, a customer who became a close friend.

“Carmen is one of a kind and so is ArtsiPhartsi. Each room is a work of art.”

LifePath Hospice Women of Philanthropy Spring

Soiree

“Seek moments of joy; make that list ‘To Feel’ rather than ‘To Do’; choose to live each day with purpose and creativity.” Such was the inspirational advice of Suleika Jaouad at the LifePath Hospice Women of Philanthropy’s eighth Spring Soiree, the author’s first in-person interview since her second bone marrow transplant. The guest speaker was 22, just a year out of Princeton, when she was diagnosed with acute myeloid leukemia. Her recovery blog became a New York Times column, “Life, Interrupted,” and an Emmy-winning video series. In remission, she chronicled a 15,000-mile solo road trip in her book “Between Two Kingdoms,” which she signed for guests at the March 8 luncheon at the University of Tampa Vaughn Center. Members donate $500 or more annually to support LifePath Hospice services, nearly $1 million to date. — Text and photos by Amy Scherzer

Tammy Thompson, left, and Stephanie Ong.

Renee Vaughn, left, Suleika Jaouad, center, and Cathy Smith.

From left, Mary Ellen Clark, Leila Martini, Bob and Patty Clark and Caitilin Martini Kamaris.

From left, Debbie Bromley, Geneva Damron, Jean Anton and Jodi Perez.

16th annual Gasparilla International Film Festival

Screenwriters, directors, producers, cast, crew and cinema lovers converged over four days in March to screen 20-plus feature films and 50 shorts at the 16th annual Gasparilla International Film Festival. The Tampa Film Institute, partnering with Film Tampa Bay (of the Visit Tampa Bay tourism bureau), catered to fans and professionals with industry panels, parties and lots of popcorn. Moviegoers and filmmakers walked from the closing night awards ceremony at Tampa Theatre to a rocking wrap party star-powered by the Van Wilson Band of brothers Patrick, Paul and Mark Wilson and some of their super-talented kids at the Floridan Palace Hotel. — Amy Scherzer

The Van Wilson Band, which includes brothers Patrick, Paul and Mark Wilson, rocks the Gasparilla International Film Festival wrap party in March. Photo courtesy of Ashley Lugo

The Wilson family, from left: John, Kass, Mary K and Jack. Photos by Amy Scherzer

From left, Eugenie Bondurant, Patrick Wilson, D.B. Sweeney, Paul Wilson and Aaron Walker.

From left, Tyler Martinolich, Tim Zehnder, Brett Butler and Jason Butler.

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ZooTampa at Lowry Park Karamu

African crested porcupine Pierce, Silvio the tamandua and blue-tongued skinks Sheila and Howard prickled, preened and posed for selfies at Karamu, the 35th anniversary gala benefiting ZooTampa at Lowry Park. Endangered Masai giraffes and African elephants also wandered over to meet the 300 guests and co-chairpersons Helen and Jim Erb, as if adding their thanks for funding wildlife rescue, rehabilitation and care. Between dinner and dancing to the Actual Bank Robbers band April 1, auction bidders vied for Taylor Swift concert tickets, a watercolor painting of any animal of their choice by Donna Morrison and a Champagne soiree for 20 friends overlooking the David A. Straz Jr. Manatee Critical Care Center. Karamu, from the Swahili word for “party,” has raised $6.6 million since 1989. — Amy Scherzer, photos courtesy of Mike Carlson

From left, Braden Casady, Kendall, Helen, Jim and Danielle Erb and Marin Balarin.

From left, Susan Baldwin, Jill Allread, Casey Cathey and Craig Pugh.

An endangered Masai giraffe joins the fun at Karamu.

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Academy Prep Center of St. Petersburg Fabulous Females luncheon

On a bright afternoon at TradeWinds Island Grand Resort Pavilion, guests gathered under white tents for the Fabulous Females fundraiser luncheon benefiting Academy Prep Center of St. Petersburg. Guests were greeted by students (who are referred to as scholars) dressed to the nines, offering firm handshakes. Every year, the committee selects remarkable women to honor and pairs them with a scholar for mentorship. The scholars presented the honorees their awards and spoke about how they were inspired by them. The honorees were: Dr. LaDonna Butler, founder and executive director of The Well, presented by Macari Anderson; Helen Pruitt Wallace, former poet laureate of St. Petersburg, presented by Darren Calhoun; internationally acclaimed artist and educator Ya La’ford, presented by Zanaria Cratic; Anysia McDowall, owner of Verdant, presented by Taniyah Ellison; and Liz Sembler, community advocate and educator,

presented by Sirr-London Wright. The event was emceed by WFLA Channel 8 News anchor Jennifer Leigh. Academy Prep Center of St. Petersburg’s mission is to “inspire and empower students qualifying for need-based scholarships to become future community leaders through a rigorous middle school program coupled with ongoing graduate support.” The fundraiser benefits the student scholarship fund. Since 2005, 98 percent of alumni have graduated from high school on time. Class of 2004 alumna Adilisha Seymour was at the event. After Academy Prep, Seymour graduated from Tallulah Falls School in Georgia and then from Howard University. She now runs a Washington, D.C.-based hair extension company called Galaxy 5000, which is celebrating its 10th anniversary. Seymour said going to Academy Prep was an amazing experience and credited the school with seeing her worth and supporting her. — Maggie Duffy

The Fabulous Females honorees, from left: Helen Pruitt Wallace, Liz Sembler, Dr. LaDonna Butler, Ya La’ford and Anysia McDowall.

WFLA Channel 8 News anchor Jennifer Leigh emceed. Photos courtesy of Academy Prep Center of St. Petersburg

Adilisha Seymour. Photo by Maggie Duffy

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The Chiselers The Chiselers Market Minaret Mixer

Guests snapped up silver, crystal, jewelry, artwork, books, furniture and much, much more at The Chiselers Market Minaret Mixer, the shopping cocktail party launch of the 58th Chiselers Market, an annual “upscale resale” of thousands of donated items to fund ongoing restoration of the former 1891 Tampa Bay Hotel, now Plant Hall at the University of Tampa. Honorary chairpersons Carmen and Harry Barkett and 400 partygoers enjoyed the Seaside band as they juggled hors d’oeuvres, signature Minaret drinks and irresistible bargains March 10, gladly paying double the prices to skip the next day’s huge market crowds. The Chiselers take their name from the women who “chiseled” old paint and mortar off hotel fireplace tiles in 1959. Since then, the organization has raised nearly $10 million to match historic preservation grants to repair the windows, bricks, floors, foundations and furnishings of Tampa’s iconic Plant Hall. — Text and photos by Amy Scherzer

From left, Carmen and Harry Barkett, Laura Lee Glass and Beth Garcia.

Liz and Joe Wessel, left, and Laura Lee and Matthew Glass.

From left, Pat Van Dyke, Pat Benjamin, Gail Dee Russ and Grace Kelley.

From left, Jennifer Motsinger, Mike Nursey, Laura Lee Glass, Carol Segundo, Renee and Ron Vaughn and Gene McNichols (seated).

Michael Francis, Music Director

Michael Francis, Music Director

Jubilant Sykes, Baritone

Stella Chen, Violin

Amemberofthe Ho- Chunk Nation of Wisconsin, TomJones’s photographsexplore issues of identity andgeographicplace within Native American communities.

The Florida Orchestra

55th Celebration

Legendary violin superstar Itzhak Perlman charmed and awed the audience at the Florida Orchestra’s 55th Celebration, choosing an Oscar-worthy playlist of cinema classics that included “Theme From Schindler’s List” (which he performs in the Academy Award-winning film), “As Time Goes By” from “Casablanca,” “Marian’s Theme” from “Robin Hood,” “Out of Africa” and other movie scores. Music director Michael Francis conducted the biggest fundraiser of the season for the state’s largest professional orchestra, now in its 55th year celebrating the power of music. The March 11 benefit at the Mahaffey Theater in St. Petersburg will further artistic excellence on stage and educational programs throughout the bay area. — Amy Scherzer, photos courtesy of Andi Tafelski

St. Petersburg Arts Alliance MUSE Awards

There were no boring speeches or stiff tuxes as guests at the St. Petersburg Arts Alliance’s MUSE Awards enjoyed gourmet delicacies and cool libations, interactive art opportunities and spontaneous performances and vignettes featuring the best in local performing and visual arts. And, of course, they celebrated the winners of the MUSE Awards, which honor artists and art lovers who make St. Petersburg a thriving city of the arts. Awards went to Katie Deits, CEO of Florida CraftArt; Belinda Dumont, longtime arts patron; Alexander Jones and projectALCHEMY; Mikhail Mansion, co-founder of Fairgrounds St. Pete; glass sculptor Catherine Woods; and Tampa Bay Times arts and entertainment reporter Maggie Duffy. The annual party supports the arts alliance and its programs to fund grants for artists and students and to strengthen education and advocacy. — Susan Taylor Martin, photo courtesy of Xina Scuderi

Joe and Linda Cassaly.

Itzhak Perlman performs with the Florida Orchestra. Photo courtesy of JM Lennon

Brad and Mary Ann Morse.

Montserrat and Emmanuel Cerf.

Janna Kennedy was among the entertainers at the event.

Kiwanis Club of St. Petersburg Casino Royale Gala

The Coliseum was transformed into a firstclass gaming palace for the Kiwanis Club of St. Petersburg’s Casino Royale Gala. More than 200 guests gambled the night away, raising over $70,000 for Take Stock in Children scholarships. The money will provide free college tuition for at least 15 students from low-income families. — Susan Taylor Martin, photo courtesy of Moorman

Photographics

ofArt heAlchemy T

May5-June 24, 2023

CuratedbyMar yChilds andElizabeth Brincklow

Two actors bookend, from left, Trey Sawyer, Jill Feldman and Cecelia and John Vinciguerra.

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