International textile market

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International Textile Market Trade Textile and Technology Editorial

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Monforts new Advanced Technological Centre opens

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Monforts Fong's Textile Machinery Co. Ltd., China, launches its products in India

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A.T.E. now offers complete range of printing solutions from Zimmer

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New Thies iMaster for dyeing heavy pile fabrics

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LAWER Is Leader On The Market Of Dispensing Systems

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Texgiulia becomes Com4® rotor Yarn Licensee

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Lenzing presents new fiber development

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Quality for the customer, profit for the producer...

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More than just benchmarks-practical quality benefits for all to see...

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What makes a Com4® yarn so successful?

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Saurer becomes SAURER.

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ITM 2013 Report

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French Textile Machinery Hi Tech machinery for Hi Tech textiles

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Stäubli Has High Aspirations To Succeed İn Every Market

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75 Years of Lenzing – 75 Years of Innovation

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Joining Force with Zhejiang Government - Bring you the Strongest Trading Platform for Knitting Machinery

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Textile Machinery Shipments

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Binsfeld Launches Expanded Website

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Heimtextil India 2014 to be the focal point of the Indian home textile market

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July-August 2013

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Indian Textiles Minister Expressed Concern Over The Current Account Deficit (CAD) Which Is Affecting The Nation's Economy

Publisher: Times International Editor - in - Chief : Prakash Kinny Senior Editor: B.S. Rao Circulation Manager: Noel Rodrigues Finance Director: Rita Gomes Office Assistant : N. Pramila

Dr. Kavuru Sambasiva Rao Union Minister for Textiles expressed concern over the current account deficit (CAD) “which is affecting the nation's economy.” He highlighted that the textiles sector “is one sector where we can increase the exports substantially.” “I am given to understand that our export in textiles is about USD 34 billion, which I wish to make at least USD 50 billion by the year end. For this we have to encourage the skill development, and speak to all the industrialists in particular to find out what exactly are their problems, what type of support they require from the government and how they will be able to increase the exports. And that will solve the problem of CAD also and the country will be out of woes.”

Editorial Office: Times International H. No. 157, Satpala, Bhandra Lee Post: Agashi, Tal: Vasai, Via:Virar(W) Dist: Thane (401 301) State: Maharashtra, INDIA Tel. No : +91-22-32998441 Mobile: 09323718859 / 09892723562 TAIWAN, R.O.C Kenly chang BUILDWELL INTERNATIONAL ENT., CO., LTD. Head Office:No.120, Huludun 2nd St., Fongyuan City, Taichung County 42086, Taiwan, R.O.C Tel:886-4-25123015 Fax: 886-4-25122372 E-mail address: buildwel@ms23.hinet.net JAPAN Katsuhiro Ishii Media Representative ACE MEDIA SERVICE INC. 12-6,4-chome,Nishiiko,Adachi-ku, Tokyo121-0824Japan Tel:81-3-5691-3335 Fax:81-3-5691-3336 amskatsu@dream.com

Dr. Rao also assured that the Ministry will do “everything possible to provide employment in a big way to poor sections of the society, and increase the exports in a big way and do justice to the cotton growers as well as the handloom weavers.”

www.timesinternational.in prakashkinny@yahoo.com info@timesinternational.in intextmarket@gmail.com E-newsletter : www.e-itm.net

Putting stress on the fact the skill development is paramount, Dr. Rao said that “when there are skills with the people of the country, the growth will go up, the production will go up, the cost of production will come down, and then we will be able to compete in the international market.” He wished to “encourage providing skills to all those people, preferably freely.”

Price Per-Copy : Rs. 100 INDIA Annual Subscription (6 Issues) - Rs. 700 Two Years Subscription (12 Issues) - Rs. 1,000 INTERNATIONAL Annual Subscription (6 Issues) - US $ 60 Two Years Subscription (12 Issues) - US $ 100 Edited, Printed and Published by Times International

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INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE MARKET Trade Textile and Technology


PROCESSING INNOVATION Monforts new Advanced Technological Centre opens

Peter Tolksdorf Chief Technologist (left), Juergen Hanel Head of Technical Textiles Division (centre), Fred Vohsdahl, Manager of Monforts Advanced technology Center

A.Monforts Textilmaschinen opens its massive new Advanced Technological Centre (ATC). Occupying a 1500m2 area, the ATC is located in a complete hall at the company's headquarters in Blumenberger Strasse, Mönchengladbach. It will allow customers in-house opportunities to undertake trials on Monforts dyeing and finishing machines under fully confidential, real production conditions.

treating fabrics with solvents. The new facility represents a €2.5 million investment, including the installation of a steam generator and complete utilities including a colour kitchen and fabric laboratory testing equipment.

Monforts technologists are available for comprehensive customer's advice on all aspects of The new ATC includes comprehensive test facilities; dyeing and finishing for classical and technical textiles where dyeing and finishing trials can be performed providing full assistance for economic and ecologic with the customers own woven, knitted or non-woven processes. fabrics or technical textiles, under full working Training courses are also available for machine conditions. operators to run the machines under minimum use of Using the results from these trials, Monforts will also dyestuff and energy input for best value added be able to make recommendations for improving fabric finishing results. The new hi tech, world class facility is another example finishes. of Monforts policy to fully support its customers in The hall includes a full Thermex continuous dyeing achieving the best possible solutions in finishing its range suitable for the Econtrol® process; a Montex fabrics efficiently under ecological and economical 6500 stenter with a vertical chain return and equipped conditions. with Eco Applicator; and a Montex 8000 stenter for technical textiles – incorporating Eco Applicator, high temperature and an explosion-proof execution for

July-August 2013

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PROCESSING INNOVATION Monforts Fong's Textile Machinery Co. Ltd., China, launches its products in India wovens, shrinking ranges for wovens, pad dry ranges for wovens and relaxation dryers for knits. Monforts Fong's has already supplied over 1300 stenters worldwide, which is testimony of its proven quality and technology. Monforts Fong's, China, which was a joint venture between A.MonfortsTextilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG, Germany, and Fong's Industries Co., Ltd., Hong Kong, has now become a fully owned company of the Fong's Group after Fong's take over of A.Monforts, Germany, last year. The acquisition of A.Monforts, Germany, is a strategic move by the Fong's Group to efficiently utilize the technology and know-how of Monforts in dry and wet finishing processes and make Indian processors can now cheer as they now have an these available worldwide at reasonable prices. option to get German technology at competitive prices, with the launch of a wide range of products in India by Monforts Fong's is exclusively represented by A.T.E. Monforts Fong's Textile Machinery Co. Ltd., China. Enterprises in India for sales and after-sales-services. Monfong's, as the company is popularly known, has a product range that includes stenter frames for knits and

A.T.E. now offers complete range of printing solutions from Zimmer A little over a year after Zimmer tied-up with A.T.E. for the marketing and sale of Zimmerdigital printing machines in India, Zimmer Austria has also entrusted A.T.E. with the marketing, sales and after sales service of its entire range of printing machinery including rotary screen printing and flat-bedscreen printing machines. Zimmer, the world leader in printing technology, manufacturers a complete range of machinery for textile and carpet finishing covering digital printing systems, flat screen and rotary screen printing, coating, steaming, washing, and drying in its plants situated at Klagenfurt and Kufstein. Zimmer rotary screen printing, Rotascreen, is equipped with a magnetic squeegee system and is modularly constructed, thus allowing for a wide spectrum of applications. Rotascreen enables top quality results with single or multi-colour printing on different substrates such as home textiles, fashion fabrics, automotive, and other materials.

Zimmer flat bed machine, Magnoprint, is a well proven flat bed screen printing machine successful world wide. Its magnetic system and roll rod technology in the longitudinal direction enables single or multi-clour printing on different substrates such as flags, home textiles, banners, towels, blankets, and automotive technical textiles. Zimmer triple coat is a compact coating machine with precision back roll and is equipped with knife, screen, and slot coating unit for different substrates such as textiles, paper foil, nonwoven, fibre, glass, tissues and other innovative materials. With an expanded portfolio in printing solutions, A.T.E. now provides the full range of the latest technologies in processing and caters to the end-to-end needs of all processing customers.

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INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE MARKET Trade Textile and Technology


PROCESSING INNOVATION New Thies iMaster for dyeing heavy pile fabrics A new iMaster F Series of dyeing machines, offering economic operation and low liquor levels, has been introduced by Thies GmbH specifically for dyeing high pile fabrics such as Terry Towelling.

The iMaster F Series of dyeing machines from leading German dyeing machinery manufacturer, Thies GmbH, has been designed for dyeing heavy pile fabrics, such as terry towelling, and ensures economic and environmental operation with advanced automation at low liquor levels as low as 1:4 for cotton. The F Series is the latest innovation for the highly successful iMaster range of dyeing machines. It features a large transport winch inside the dyeing kier to be processed with significantly reduced elongation. This results in an improved stability, perfect fabric condition and appearance. The new models are available with capacities of between 250 kg - 400 kg per chamber. The imaster f

series can be delivered with up to max. 8 tubes for the 250 kg/tube and 6 tubes for the 400 kg version. Moreover, the iMaster F Series is also able to process a wide range of different articles. Equipped with a 100% stock tank, a dosing tank and delivery system for dry salt, the machine is supplied optimised for the production of Terry articles. The automatic self-cleaning filter system always helps to achieve the same dyeing and treatment conditions every time. Manual interventions for cleaning are reduced and productivity is increased. Dyecontrol allows the visual display of the treatment curves to control the liquor clarity as well as the determination of the dye exhaust from the liquor. The dyer recognizes if, and when, the dyes migrate from the aqueous phase to the fibre. During rinsing bath saturation can be determined. This allows program steps to be shortened and sequences to be programmed more efficiently; making treatment processes transparent and optimized. Rinse, wash and dye baths are measured on-line, continuously analysed and displayed graphically. First F units delivered Portugal's Terry Towelling producer Mundotextil has recently taken delivery of their first two iMaster F Series, each with a capacity of 400 kg.

LAWER Is Leader On The Market Of Dispensing Systems A Perfect Dispensing : Lawer Dispensing Systems Face-2-Face Filippo Lanaro;Managing Director:LAWER S.P.A.

Quality A quality designed to last. This is the mission of Lawer, a Biella based company, internationally recognized for the excellence of its dispensing systems for powders and liquids. Excellence expressed from the preliminary analysis, to the commissioning of the equipment, in order to ensure safe, reliable, automated systems operated by the highest-class software, which are able to adapt themselves to the changing needs of manufacturing companies. Quality is also the ability to provide the best service and efficient maintenance, available worldwide to be close to our customers at all times.

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Reliability Lawer is a solid, well-established Italian company. The concentration of the design and production department in the same establishment, provides control over the entire manufacturing chain. The company is based in the Biella area of Northern Italy, in the district best known for the production of high quality yarns and fabrics. The experience gained in the textile sector since 1970 has provided the company with the right credentials to present itself also in other industrial fields. Lawer today is a benchmark for advanced dispensing systems and has the flexibility to adapt these to the different needs of each customer. 17


PROCESSING INNOVATION Lawer holds a substantial number of international network with 45 highly qualified agents with the ability patents registered in many countries around the world. to analyze, identify, and translate the client's needs to a personalized project. Technology To date Lawer, has designed and manufactured over 2000 equipments and devices, thanks to an exceptional Sustainable Technologies technical and engineering department. Lawer is one of the first companies in Italy to have Specialized human resources and strong technological joined “Sustainable Technologies”, a project promoted content is the added value of the company, which by ACIMIT (Association of Italian Manufacturers for enables it to develop its business in all markets. Textile Industry). Believing in technology allows Lawer to propose The associated companies to ACIMIT have to supply complex projects evermore functional and advanced, equipment and technologies that target the center of the in line with the level of automation required by the manufacturing cycle for the reduction of power, water customer. and chemical materials waist for a more responsible production process.The energy/environmental Research and Development performances are guaranteed by a 'green plate' fitted on Since the beginning Lawer has always implemented the systems. the strategic decision to invest substantially in people Lawer's engagement throughout “Sustainable for research and development into new technologies. Technologies” does not stop here. The company is Through the technical department dedicated to the equipped with photovoltaic panels to self produce and analysis and development, the nerve center of the plant, use renewable energy, in the continuos research of the company shows its strong project engineering productive solutions addressed to environmental capabilities. The task of finding the most innovative respect. technical solutions for the continuous improvement of For the year 2013-14 Which are the exhibitions systems, is essential, to continually update the LAWER S.p.A will be participating ? technology. For this reason Lawer continues to lead in Lawer Will Attend The Following Exhibitions: an increasingly competitive market. 1) February 2014 DTG – Dakka Bangladesh Security 2) June 2014 ITMA ASIA – Shanghai P.R.C. Lawer provides security for their customers. A partner 3) August 2014 Brasil to count over the years because we follow the evolution of the production departments of our client companies, and are always providing the most advanced technological solutions at the highest quality level, Yours COMPETITORS in ASIAN MARKET ? The with components selected from the best suppliers in the Main Competitors Are : COLORSERVICE – THIES – market. All this to ensure total reliability of its systems ELIAR and an excellent, and long term, availability of spare How you compare LAWER S.p.A to its parts.Lawer also produces its dispensing equipment Competitors? LAWER Is Leader On The Market Of with the highest attention of care for environmental Dispensing Systems. impact, this contributes significantly to the solutionof What are yours future MARKETING plans for problems of safety and hygiene in the workplace and ASIAN MARKET ? LAWER Recently Opens An reduces waste pollutants. After Sale Center In Shanghai For The Chinese Know-how Lawer, which takes its name from the initials of its founder Lanaro Walter, offers a experience of over 40 years of activity.

Market, We Will Evaluate To Do The Same In India. We Are Investing A Lot For The Marketing Penetration Especially In The Indian Market. Lawer Is Investion A Lot In All The Asian Market To Maintain The Leader Position And To Better Attend Our Customers.

After sales service Flexibility, professionalism, through an international

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INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE MARKET Trade Textile and Technology


SPINNING Texgiulia becomes Com4® rotor Yarn Licensee The Italian company, Texgiulia, is committed to yarn quality spun on Rieter rotor machines type R 60. In order to optimally promote the yarns, the company decided to become a Rieter yarn licensee for rotor yarns. The ceremonial presentation of the Com4®rotor certificate took place mid-March 2013 at the company's headquarters in north Italian Rovellasca-Como. The fully-integrated open-end spinning plant Texgiulia is part of the Italian Gabel Group and is one of the leading manufacturers of bedding and home textiles in Italy. The company generates its complete added value domestically – starting from yarn production up to the product sales through its own distribution network.

Yarn quality further improved

With the yarns, spun on the new R 60 rotor spinning machines, Texgiulia was able to further increase the already very high quality standard of the yarns and substantially improve the running properties in its own weaving unit. Yarn purchasers will also profit from this First and foremost, Texgiulia produces for its own quality in future. requirements. By the acquisition of further Rieter R 60 rotor spinning machines, the plant now has a sufficiently large capacity to also produce yarns for License package from Rieter third parties. The Rieter yarn license for high-quality Com4®rotor yarns thus offers Texgiulia the optimal Rieter actively supports and promotes the supply promotion platform to win new customers for rotor sources of licensed yarns, one of the measures being a direct link on the Rieter website to the licensee. yarn in future and to develop customer relationships. Licensed customers have the opportunity to profit from The ceremonial presentation of the Com4® rotor the expertise of Rieter specialists and to participate in certificate was held mid-March at the headquarters of Rieter Com4® yarn further training courses. Over and the Gabel Group in Rovellasca-Como (north Italy). In above these activities, Rieter supports licensed the presence of Dr. Emilio Moltrasio (Delegate of the customers with the implementation of their own Board of Directors and Partner in the Gabel Group) and marketing actions. Sergio Zonca (Technical Director General of the Gabel Group), Rieter sales engineer Matthias Stuessi handed over the certificate to the Management.

Lenzing presents new fiber development At Techtextil in Frankfurt Lenzing introduce a new flame-resistant fiber especially for use in upholstery fabrics in public transportation vehicles. The guidelines which apply to public transportation vehicles are particularly strict. The fabric and materials used in these applications have to satisfy the safety standards. With a newly developed Lenzing FR® fiber, these satisfy all the safety standards for public safety. The advantage of a safety fiber in public transportation is that Lenzing FR® is made from beechwood and is endowed with all of the positive properties this natural fiber has to offer. The seating “climate” remains excellent even over longer distances since the good breathing properties of the fiber take effect here. The special thing about Lenzing FR® or the „divan fiber“ is that, unlike conventional protection fibers, it does not melt, drip or afterglow. The latter properties represent an enormous risk for passengers. Another important safety aspect is that the new flame-

July-August 2013

resistant fiber delivers a lower rate of toxicity and flue gas density in the event of a fire. The „divan fiber“ is particularly well suited for use in blends with wool. Both fibers complement each other superbly. Resistance to fading and excellent pilling performance coupled with durability make upholstery fabrics a pleasure to sit on. As a result of using the Lenzing FR® “divan fiber”, treating wool with additional, ecologically harmful flame-retardant agents is not necessary – another production advantage! The new specialty fiber can be used in various transportation vehicles. Wherever safety and comfort are in demand, Lenzing FR® is the answer whether in maritime or rail transportation, air transportation, subways or in public spaces such as cinemas and theatres.

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USTER®

SPINNING

Think quality

Quality for the customer, profit for the producer... USTER® STATISTICS: 'essential quality tool for mills,' says leading Chinese spinner Analysis of every order, setting of machines and processes, continuous quality monitoring – as well as product development and an objective background for price negotiations with customers. USTER® STATISTICS does it all, playing a key role in multiple aspects of spinning mill operations.

Younger Hall dedicated to RING SPINNING

Leading Chinese spinner Xinjiang Youngor Cotton Textile Co. Ltd. relies on USTER® STATISTICS global benchmarks as an “essential tool” for both quality control and business planning – helping the company to strike the ideal balance between quality for the customer and profitability for the mill. In a revealing insight into modern, large-scale yarn production, Xinjiang Youngor outlines the continuing challenges facing spinners – and explains how USTER® STATISTICS are helping the company to conquer domestic and international markets. It's all about giving customers the quality they want. But the price has to be right, and the cost of achieving that quality must allow the mill to keep production running at profitable levels.

Xinjiang Youngor is located at Kashi City, in Xinjiang Province, in the far west of P.R. China. It is a sizable operation: 1,800 employees generate annual turnover of RMB 600 million. With exports reaching about 20% of output, the company has to be flexible enough to service demanding markets and stringent quality requirements both at home and abroad. It's no surprise that cotton yarns, mostly combed, are the mainstay of production, since Kashi is the hub of an important cotton-growing region. The count range at Xinjiang Youngor is quite broad, Ne 20-300, and takes in blends with polyester, cashmere and linen. Yarns are produced using ring-spinning, compact, Siro and corespun technology – together amounting to some 300,000 spindles.

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INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE MARKET Trade Textile and Technology


USTER®

SPINNING

Think quality

Initial yarn analysis ensures correct quality parameters company needs to check all the process options for the yarn, to predict how they will affect the final quality. That means the Statistics can assess every job to ensure profitability forecasts fit within the overall strategic plan. For any shortfalls, parameters can be adjusted to achieve the right quality and pricing levels.

Benchmarks create common language of quality

Younger View of Spinning Preperation Process

Xinjiang Youngor says the current trading environment remains gloomy for the whole textile industry: “Because the world financial crisis is not over, international market consumption is still weak,” says production director Mrs. Xia Hua. “The situation is not optimistic.” Against that background, the entire sector has to focus on a common goal: the all-important perfect balance of quality and productivity. An experienced and professional quality management approach means Xinjiang Youngor understands the importance of correct profiling of each yarn. “Before starting on an order, we initially analyze samples from the customer or work with a detailed quality specification, always comparing the parameters to values in USTER® STATISTICS,” says Hua. “We then set up the processes and organize suitable quality controls.” It's always easier if the mill has produced a comparable yarn previously, so the relevant quality levels and settings can be compared, but proper checks are vital, as parameters may not be exactly the same. Through all of this, the company relies on USTER® STATISTICS for continuous quality checks against global benchmarks.

The value of USTER® STATISTICS as an international 'quality language' for business negotiations is also highlighted at Xinjiang Youngor. Objective quality data can be readily communicated and understood, providing a clear and equitable basis for agreement between the parties in a business discussion. As Hua explains: “When we compare a customer's quality requirements to USTER® STATISTICS, we sometimes find that the specifications are very stringent – usually with regard to evenness, hairiness, imperfections, and strength and elongation – but the desired yarn selling price does not measure up to these expectations. Occasionally, the quality requirements might even exceed our capability. In such cases, we have the facility through USTER® STATISTICS to negotiate with the customers, to protect our interests while ensuring the yarn we can deliver is suitable for their needs.”

Having worked with successive editions of USTER® STATISTICS, Xinjiang Youngor has had the opportunity to measure their value and effectiveness against a number of other benchmarking aids, both its own and those based on general Chinese standards. “Clearly, USTER® STATISTICS has the dominant position,” Hua says. “It is an essential quality tool for spinning mills, providing excellent guidance and direction and allowing them to evaluate their Product development work – with different raw performance against competitors on the basis of materials or new yarn articles – highlights another globally-established standards.” critical role for USTER® STATISTICS. Here, the

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USTER®

SPINNING

Think quality

More than just benchmarks-practical quality benefits for all to see... How USTER® STATISTICS can be applied to eradicate common fabric defects such as pilling and uneven appearance Everybody knows USTER® STATISTICS – the globally-established benchmarks for the textile industry. But how are they used in practice, and how do they influence the fabrics and garments we all wear every day? To put it another way, what would textiles be like without USTER® STATISTICS?

packages with the optical sensors in the USTER® TESTER 5, at a speed of 800 meters per minute. This instrument tests a wide range of quality parameters, also including evenness and imperfections such as thin places, thick places and neps.

For the answers, it might be useful to start with an example (Figure 1) of a particularly troublesome fabric defect that we are all familiar with: pilling (sometimes called 'bobbling') – the appearance of little balls of fuzzy fiber on the surface of a garment. Obviously, pilling is a serious problem for the entire production chain, since the consumer's dissatisfaction with a product will quickly rebound on the retailer, clothing manufacturer, fabric producer and, ultimately, the yarn spinner.

The numerical H value resulting from the test is automatically matched against percentile levels in USTER® STATISTICS. These percentiles, known as USPsTM, show by how much the yarn is above or below a certain value, based on comparisons with what other spinning mills worldwide are producing. For example, the 5% level means 5% of mills worldwide are producing yarn with equal or better quality levels for the particular parameter being compared. The same applies to the limit levels of 25%, 50%, 75% and 95% shown up by the USTER® STATISTICS. In the fabric example illustrated here, the level of pilling was produced by a yarn with an H value of 7.71, equivalent to a USPTM of 95% – clearly showing that the yarn hairiness was too high for the end-use. To avoid pilling, a fabric specialist would be able to determine that, in this case, a yarn with hairiness USPTM of 50% would have been required.

Pilling: causes and prevention When we look at an example of pilling, there is a simple statement we can make: “With USTER® STATISTICS, this wouldn't have happened.” In most cases, fabric defects can be traced back to the yarn – not necessarily 'bad' yarn, but usually yarn with the wrong quality specification for its intended end-use. With pilling, the cause is generally a yarn which is too hairy. Defining the level of hairiness – the H value – in a yarn is achieved by measuring with the USTER® TESTER 5, to assess the protruding fibers in the yarn. Spinners will carry out this routine under lab conditions, testing yarn

®

USTER

Think quality

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INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE MARKET Trade Textile and Technology


USTER®

SPINNING

Think quality

Uneven fabric appearance: a clear view

A second example (Figure 2) shows another kind of defect which can also lead to lost customers at any stage of the manufacturing process: uneven fabric appearance with very visible faults and inconsistencies that are always going to be unacceptable. This type of defect has a number of likely causes, all showing up in the yarn: too many neps in the raw material; too many short fibers in the yarn (possibly caused by incorrect settings at the combing machine); poorly-maintained machinery; or defective rollers on the ring spinning machine. And, once again, we can confidently say: “With USTER® STATISTICS, this wouldn't have happened.” First, we have to accept that it is not possible to produce a 'perfect' yarn, even with excellent modern technology. To eradicate the kind of unsatisfactory uneven fabric appearance seen in this example, we must focus on the yarn quality parameter known as CVm, for Coefficient of Variation of mass. Experience has proved that this characteristic strongly impacts on how we can expect the finished fabric to look. Here also, the USTER® TESTER 5 provides the vital test data, derived from its unique capacitive measuring system. And here again, the correlation with USTER® STATISTICS percentiles is critical to understanding and controlling the yarn properties to ensure a satisfactory fabric appearance. For most fabrics, a 50% USPTM level for CVm is likely to give an acceptable result, while certain types of more critical woven or knitted structures call for a CVm around 25%. Even 75% CVm values might work for less-demanding fabric needs. Beyond that, however, there is a serious

July-August 2013

risk of uneven fabric appearance. In our example here, the measured CVm value of 13.9 translates into a USPTM of 80% – explaining why the fabric obviously does not make the grade in terms of appearance.

Yarn profiles: specifying quality objectively Today, quality-conscious spinners take advantage of this connection between CVm levels, USTER® STATISTICS and fabric appearance to define the required CVm level and USPTM value in advance of a yarn contract. This approach, with close collaboration between the yarn producer and the user, is part of an overall specification known as a yarn profile, covering all the appropriate quality parameters. In this way, both parties can be confident that the yarn will precisely match the requirements of the intended fabric application. It takes the guesswork out of a business agreement, and fosters good relationships between customer and supplier all along the chain. The examples given here underline the real and practical advantages USTER® STATISTICS bring to the textile industry. The basis for these benefits is a substantial and extensive project – running over five or six years – to prepare each edition of USTER® STATISTICS. It involves the thorough collection and testing of several thousand samples, carefully targeted to be representative of worldwide textile production capacities. The results are fed into unique data analysis software for interpretation and calculation of the percentile curves. Finally, the USTER® STATISTICS are issued in the form of powerful interactive software, accessed via the internet or on CD.

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SPINNING What makes a Com4® yarn so successful? Iris Biermann We are frequently asked which yarn we recommend for which application. The question is not always easy to answer because the application range of the yarn depends on the requirements placed on the end product, the economic demands of the spinning plant as well as the customer base of the yarn manufacturer. The following information is designed to help decide which Com4® yarn is the best for the individual customer and for the textile application.

Alongside the flexibility in the process itself, it is more relevant for the successful textile manufacturer which characteristics the yarns provide (Fig. 1). In order to describe the differences between the Com4® yarns themselves or to compare them to competitor yarns, individual consideration must be given to each aspect Each Com4® yarn has its own properties – not in comparison to other yarns but rather for what the respective Com4® yarns stand. The comparison of the properties is decisive in the selection of the most suitable Com4®yarn for the respective textile

application. The description of what sets a Com4® yarn apart when compared to other ring, compact, rotor or air-jet yarns on the market is equally important for the yarn trade and yarn buyers, as well as for the decision of the spinning company in which technology of which supplier to invest . In yarn manufacture, compromises must often be made between quality and costs and this can lead to the benefits offered by a spinning technology not being fully exploited. Thus, a smaller rotor is used to achieve higher productivity which conversely leads to lower yarn volume.

Fig. 1: Success factors of Com4® yarns

What mainly characterizes a Com4® yarn?

Fig. 2: What mainly characterizes a Com4® yarn? 24

INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE MARKET Trade Textile and Technology


SPINNING Many properties are strongly dependent on the yarn count and the raw material used. The tables show the main characteristics of each yarn that can be found in practice (Fig. 2). Com4®ring is characterized by high flexibility in the use of the raw material, the yarn count and the yarn character. It possesses a high degree of strength and high and even yarn hairiness. Com4®compact is also distinguished by extremely high strength, even yarn structure, low hairiness and high yarn density. Com4®rotor demonstrates a very even fabric appearance due to its special structure. With a high short fiber proportion in the raw material, the evenness is even better when compared to other Com4®yarns. Particularly in the main application area of Com4®rotor – coarser yarn counts of cotton – the yarn shows a low strength variation. The yarn hairiness is to a great degree designable. That means, according to the requirement of the textile end product, high or low yarn hairiness can be produced. Com4®jet has a unique yarn structure with very low, short hairiness. Com4®jet yarn is a voluminous yarn which positively influences the opacity of the yarn in the fabric. Due to its special fiber bonding, it also has a high level of resistance to abrasion.

through the weaving shed. Com4®compact shows great advantages in relation to the process resp. processing speed. The high yarn strength makes the yarn substantially more resistant to the subsequent processes. Low end-down rates in downstream processing, especially in weaving, are recorded. The high strength additionally offers potential in highgrade finishing. Every high-grade finishing process adversely affects the fabric strength. If the yarn is inherently strong, the finishing potential can be far better exploited. Com4®rotor: By the lower strength distribution, stable running characteristics can generally be realized in further processing. Through the special yarn structure, less sizing agent is needed. The yarn does not cling as strongly in the weaving process and the yarn structure absorbs sizing agent more rapidly. If a rotor yarn were to be treated with the same sizing agent recipe as a ring yarn, then the danger of over-sizing would exist. The consequence is that the yarn breaks more frequently, it is stiffer and therefore more brittle. Basically a Com4®rotor yarn exhibits less fiber fly in further processing. This has a direct and positive effect on the required cleaning intervals for the weaving or knitting machine.

What makes a Com4® yarn so successful in downstream processing?

Com4®jet: At equal color intensity, a Com4®jet fabric requires less color dye with dark colors which leads to a great saving potential in the dyeing plant. This, however, also comprised risks. If the color recipe is not adapted, the fabric will be „overdyed“ resulting in a harder touch and diminished color fastness. Due to the good fiber bonding, the running properties in downstream processing are excellent. As a rule, this is reflected in lower maintenance requirements in the knitting unit. In the weaving plant, the yarn clings far less – a lower fiber fly can be registered.

The yarn properties shown above lead to benefits in downstream processing (Fig. 3). Com4®ring basically exhibits good properties in downstream processing. This results in good efficiency and high process speeds, mainly because of the constant yarn quality. Of special note is the benefit with weft insertion on the air-jet weaving machines. Due to the comparably high hairiness, the yarn can be safely transported by the air

Fig. 3: What makes a Com4® yarn so successful in downstream processing?

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SPINNING Positive Com4® textile characteristics for the user Here too, the yarn structure is that which shapes the fabric characteristics (Fig. 4). Fabrics from Com4 ® ring yarns show predominantly good properties. Especially the opacity in knits due to the high yarn hairiness can be named as a benefit. But also the extremely soft touch of the fabric should be mentioned. Basically, a ring yarn enjoys the greatest acceptance by users – by the fact of its long history. Com4®compact has the highest fabric strength. The absolutely clear contour sharpness with printed products, Jacquard and shaft patterns are immediately obvious to the user. The reason for this is the compact yarn structure. Fewer hairs also means less light refraction on the fabric surface – Com4®compact products usually show an outstanding surface sheen. Com4®rotor demonstrates a very high optical evenness in the appearance of the fabric particularly with knits. The high abrasion resistance in the yarn is also found in the fabric. The rather open yarn structure provides a great potential in the rough process, e.g. for blankets in the area of household textiles. The best rough surfaces in respect of evenness and longevity are obtained with Com4®rotor products. Com4®jet is the favorite with anti-pilling – especially with knitted fabrics. The reason can be found in the special hairiness of the Com4®jet yarns. It is said that a yarn spun according to the open-end principle is a calming yarn. The fibers are in an energy-neutral state. The effect is particularly apparent in the behaviour of a circular knit. The typical seam wandering – the shifting

of the side seams – does not occur with Com4®jet yarns. Due to the yarn structure, the textiles have a very high level of moisture absorption which is beneficial for underwear and sportswear.

In which textile applications are Com4® yarns most commonly found? The yarn characteristics determine the preferred areas of application of the Com4® yarns (Fig. 5). Com4®ring has the most universal area of application. This is mainly in the outerwear and underwear sector but also in the range of home textiles. In terry articles, ring yarns with their typical yarn strength support the substructure. The absolute domain of Com4®compact is the fine shirting sector. In addition, high-quality knitted products and superior bed linen produced with fine yarn counts are typical applications. A further field in which Com4®compact excels is the manufacture of socks. Com4®rotor and denim is a symbiosis in the market. Robust workwear as well as home textiles and technical applications such as the base structure of sandpaper are, as a rule, also manufactured from Com4®rotor. The market domination of Com4®jet yarns started with knitted products. Today, bed linen made of regenerated cellulose fibers is also produced with Com4®jet yarns on weaving machines. The advance of Com4®jet yarns will be shown in the future by many more new fields of application.

Fig. 4: Positive Com4® textile characteristics for the user

Fig. 5: In which textile applications are Com4® yarns mainly to be found? 26

INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE MARKET Trade Textile and Technology


SPINNING Com4® yarns compared to each other Also when comparing the yarns to each other, the differences in yarn characteristics, properties in downstream processing and the appearance of the end product are importance. The following descriptions are general rules and attempt to show the differences in relation to all the fiber materials and yarn counts. According to the fiber material used and the yarn count, shifts in comparison to the yarn are possible. However, in general the statements made are valid. Basically the tables should be read as follows: the more plus signs, the more positive the described property of the relevant yarn. The following yarn properties in the comparison are highlighted (Fig. 6). High yarn tenacity and elongation: in the comparison Com4®compact demonstrates the highest yarn tenacity and elongation. It is followed by Com4 ® ring, Com4 ® jet and Com4®rotor. The differences in elongation are not so great. Com4®ring and Com4®compact show the highest degree of elongation followed by Com4®rotor und Com4®jet. Low variation of the tenacity is an advantage of Com4®compact and Com4®rotor, closely followed by Com4®ring and Com4®jet. This relates to the typical application fields of the yarns. For instance, the low variation of tenacity with rotor with coarse yarn counts and with cotton is more apparent than with finer yarn counts and with blends.

Yarn hairiness can be neither described as positive nor negative. It always depends on the textile application in each case. A decisive property is how well the hairiness can be influenced, especially concerning higher or lower, longer or shorter hairiness. The reduction potential of longer hairiness is particularly great with Com4®jet, closely followed by Com4®compact. In comparison, Com4®rotor and Com4®ring have the lowest potential to reduce long hairs. The yarn evenness must be differentiated between mass evenness and optical evenness. The mass evenness – measured with the capacitive measuring principle expressed in CVm (%) – can be high with one yarn but this does not automatically mean that the yarn in the fabric subsequently looks uneven. For this reason, the Technology Department at Rieter has taken to always producing a knitted tube alongside the technically measured yarn evenness values (optically as well as capacitively), to be able to assess the optical evenness in the fabric. Yarn volumes: Com4®rotor followed by Com4®jet are the yarns with the greatest yarn volumes. Com4®compact has the lowest natural volume. The staff value – the amount of fibers created by rubbing yarn on yarn – is an indication for the fiber fly in the further processing. Com4®compact as well as Com4®jet show the best staff values, i.e. the lowest fiber fly tendency. They are followed by Com4®rotor and Com4®ring.

Fig. 6: Com4® yarn properties in mutual comparison

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SPINNING Comparison of properties in downstream processing When the properties in downstream processing are observed, then the following parameters should be singled out (Fig. 7). Sizing agent requirement: A Com4®compact and Com4®jet yarn require the lowest amount of sizing agent, closely followed by Com4®rotor. Due to the higher hairiness, Com4®ring yarn needs the highest proportion of sizing agent in order to reduce the clamping tendency in the weaving process. Fiber fly during downstream processing: As already explained, the fiber fly tendency depends not only on the basic yarn hairiness but also on the fiber bonding in the yarn bundle – in other words, from the yarn structure. Com4®compact and Com4®jet show here the best characteristics. The number of ends down in downstream processing is closely related to the process speed which, for instance, can be achieved in the weaving plant. The absolute yarn tenacity and also variation of the tenacity are decisive. The lowest ends down rate in downstream processing can be seen with Com4®compact followed by Com4®rotor. Alongside the classic yarn properties, also the bobbin build-up influences the ends down situation in further processing. The integrated bobbin unit in the Rieter rotor and air-jet spinning machines supports a good and even bobbin build-up. A high degree of dye exploitation is apparent on the one hand, by a high color speed and on the other hand, by a minimal amount of absorbed color at the same color depth resp. intensity. Com4®jet has the best color saturation. The required color depth is quickly achieved with a minimal amount of color. Equally, Com4®rotor and Com4®compact show good color saturation properties due to their structure. Which yarn is the best in relation to the required fabric properties? When the fabrics are compared to each other, the following aspects are notable (Fig. 8). Even fabric appearance: An even fabric appearance results with Com4®rotor and Com4®jet followed by Com4®compact and Com4®ring. The clearest knitted or woven structures are visible with Com4®compact and Com4®jet. The special yarn structures support, for instance, the distinctiveness of pin-stripe suiting. Even classic twill shows a clearly distinct burr when using a Com4®compact or Com4®jet yarn. Low Pilling: Com4®jet fabrics show the lowest tendency to pilling. Com4®compact and Com4®rotor exhibit equal behavior. Com4®ring shows the greatest tendency towards pill formation on the fabric surface. Textile fabrics with the softest touch are undoubtedly

produced from Com4®ring yarn. But also Com4®jet and Com4®compact are able to achieve fabrics with a soft touch. In order to manufacture a soft Com4®rotor, the twist factor must be set very low and supportive measures undertaken in textile finishing. Com4® yarns in comparison to competitor yarns Com4®ring stands for consistent yarn quality with low variations and that in a wide diversity of yarn versions compared to competitor ring yarns. A Com4®ring yarn stands out in particular by consistency and high reproducibility of the yarn quality. The high consistency between the spinning positions and between machines of the same construction type across the entire life cycle of the machine provide the yarn seller and yarn buyer with the certitude that they have sold resp. bought a consistent yarn quality. The integration of options for special yarns already forseen by Rieter in the machine construction offers a high degree of flexibility within the Com4®ring yarn. The result of all this compared to the ring yarns of competitors: Com4®ring with the lowest variations between the yarn cops. Com4®ring with lower variations in the yarn quality within the bobbin. Com4®ring creates trust with regard to yarn quality, even with follow-up orders. Com4®compact stands for the highest level of compacting, lowest quality variation, highest yarn tenacity and longest experience in compacting technology worldwide in comparison to compact yarns from competitors. Com4®compact stands out by its constant compacting results over long periods of use. The basis for this is provided by the long life cycle of the compacting elements such as the almost wear-free surfaces of the perforated cage, the centrepiece of the compact spinning machine. Practice confirms the consistently higher tenacity values in comparison to competitor compact yarns. This is achieved by the precise thread guidance during the compacting process. The know-how gained over decades and the experience with yarn compacting are systematically passed on to the Com4®compact customers. The result of all this compared to the compact yarns of competitors:

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SPINNING

Fig. 7: Com4® yarn in downstream processing - mutual comparison

fig. 8: Com4® fabrics in mutual comparison

Com4®compact with higher degree of compacting. Com4®compact with consistent compacting results. Com4®compact with higher tenacity values. Com4®compact with faster results with new compact applications. Com4®rotor stands for the lowest achievable yarn twists at certain tenacity, few piecers and the most consistent and yarn-like piecers in comparison to competitor rotor yarns. Com4®rotor yarn has a great

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potential to reduce the twist factor which is the basic prerequisite for the production of textiles with a soft touch. The state-of-the-art spinning box technology of the R 60 rotor spinning machines facilitates the manufacture of yarns with low yarn twists while simultaneously maintaining yarn tenacity and imperfection level. The low number of start-up joints is a further difference compared to competitor rotor yarns. The optimal running properties of the modern spinning box technology lead to a minimal number of

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SPINNING ends-down during the spinning process. The easy realization of the optimal setting for optical and strength-optimized spinning start-up – achieved by an intelligent spinning start-up system with the start-up function AEROpiecing® – ensures yarn-like piecers. The result of all this compared to the rotor yarns of competitors: Com4®rotor yarn optimal for soft knitted fabrics. Com4®rotor yarn with better downstream processing properties. Com4®rotor yarn with invisible piecers in the fabric. Com4®jet yarn exhibits unique yarn hairiness and invisible piecers when compared to air-spun competitor yarns. The different hairiness character to that of competitor air-jet yarns is attributable to the different fiber guidance in the spinning process in the so-called fiber feeding element (FFE). The greatest and most decisive difference compared to competitors is

the spinning start-up system. Setting of a joint such as with Com4®jet can be made far more easily and precisely in relation to optics and tenacity. The result of all this compared to the air-jet yarns of competitors: Com4®jet fabrics with lower pilling tendency. Com4®jet yarn with fewer ends-down in further processing. Com4®jet yarn with invisible yarn piecings. In practice, it is unfortunately often seen that simply the cheapest yarn is used, without consideration of the advantages and disadvantages of the downstream processing characteristics resp. the end product. Great potential for optimizing downstream processing or for optimizing the fabric properties lie idle and are not used. The bottom line is that the seemingly favourable price is ultimately an expensive choice.

Saurer becomes SAURER. The sale of OC Oerlikon's Natural Fibre and Components businesses to the Chinese Jinsheng Group, as announced on December 3, 2012 was closed on July 3, 2013. This opens yet another chapter in the 160-year old history of the Saurer Group. The new Saurer consolidates leading textile brands for both machinery Schlafhorst, Zinser, Allma, Volkmann, Jinsheng and Saurer Embroidery - and components - Accotex, Daytex, Fibrevision, Heberlein, Temco und Texparts. The new Saurer Group is one of the world's largest textile machinery and component manufacturers, with sales around 1 billion Swiss francs and 3'800 employees. The group has nine locations in Germany,two in Switzerland and six in Asia, close to the main textile markets of the world. The employees will all remain with the group and look forward to starting into the new Saurer era. „We are proud to continue the long and successful story of Saurer. The brands within the Saurer Group stand for innovation and highest product quality in the Chinese market“, says Mr. Pan with a hint of pride in his voice. As the long-term co-operation partner of the Saurer Group and owner of several textile businesses, he has extensive knowledge of the textile industry. Mr.Pan sees himself as a strategic investor, and his view is to further strengthen the market position for the sustainable future of the group. „We

will increase our investments in R&D in Germany and Switzerland. This know-how is the base for our technology leadership today and we intend to stay ahead“. Heinrich Fischer, Swiss citizen, and former CEO of the Saurer Group, is heading the new Saurer as the chairman of the board. Further notable personalities who will join the board are Hans-Georg Härter, former CEO of ZF, Rudolf Huber, former CFO of Geberit and Guido Spix, CTO of Multivac. Next to Xueping Pan, main investor, and Jesse Guan, CEO of the machinery business unit of Jinsheng Group, the board will be extended by two to three Chinese personalities. Daniel Lippuner, Swiss citizen, and former CEO of Oerlikon Textile Components, has been appointed CEO of the Saurer Group. Saurer will be managed from two locations; operationally from the headquarters in Wattwil, Switzerland and financially from the second headquarters in Shanghai, China. The group will have a strong de-central organization, allowing decisions to be made close to customer with minimal implementation time. The five business units are the back bone of the Saurer Group. The employees of all the business units are doing their utmost to further strengthen the position of Saurer as a leading textile machinery manufacturer, exceed the expectation of the customers with excellent service and innovative products – we live textile.

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INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE MARKET Trade Textile and Technology


ITM 2013 REPORT GLOBAL TEXTILE SECTOR HAS RUSHED INTO ISTANBUL ITM Texpo Eurasia, HIGHTEX International Technical Textiles and Nonwoven and Istanbul Yarn Fairs, all considered to be the greatest textile meetings not only in the country but also in the region, took place in Istanbul on the dates of 29 May- 1 June 2013. The meeting has gathered about 50.000 sector representatives from all around the world together. This year ITM Texpo Eurasia, HIGHTEX International Technical Textiles and Nonwoven and Istanbul Yarn Fairs that recurred upon the heavy demand of the sector, has been organized by the partnership of Teknik Fuarc覺l覺k and Tuyap in cooperation with TEMSAD. This textile fair which has been organized on the dates of 29 May- 1 June 2013 in Buyukcekmece Tuyap Fair and Congress Center/ Istanbul, hosted approximately 50.000 worldwide representatives of the sector. Taking place in 10 different halls and within an approximately 90.000m2 area, this meeting brought 1223 companies and their representatives from 37

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countries together. A variety of brand new models of the latest technologies that are used in every step of textile manufacturing including examples from yarn machines to weaving machines, weaving machines to nonwoven technologies, dying-finishing machines to printing digital printing machines have been presented in the fairs where Turkey's and the globe's leading textile companies introduced their newest technological innovations. Additionally, every product related to nonwoven and technical textiles and the brand new yarn models have been introduced in HIGHTEX 2013 and Istanbul Yarn Fair respectively.

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ITM 2013 REPORT

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ITM 2013 REPORT

In this great meeting where thousands of visitors from Turkey and from all around the world came together, the procurement committees from Uzbekistan, Iran and Pakistan took part as well. In addition to that there have been a lot of visitors and representatives of commerce chambers from the neighboring countries of Turkey and 70 countries in total where countries like Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan, Bulgaria, BosniaHerzegovina Croatia, Morocco, Tunisia and Greek took place on the top. The visitors form Arabic and Middle Eastern countries ranked among others and attracted attention. The countries where the highest number of foreign visitors came from are the following ones: Egypt (%19,4), Iran (%14,3), Bulgaria (%5,7), Russia (%4,4) and India (%4,2). Other countries: Uzbekistan, Greece, Macedonia, Georgia, Serbia, Pakistan, Italy, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Azerbaijan, Syria, Ukraine, Croatia, Turkmenistan, United Kingdom, Brazil, Morocco, Tunisia, Poland, Germany, Spain, Romania, Belarus, China, Lebanon, France, Switzerland, United Arab Emirates, Portugal, Belgium, Czech Republic, Israel, Moldova, Bangladesh, Slovenia, the Netherlands, Saudi Arabia, Jordan, South Korea, Kazakhstan, Indonesia, Japan, Libya, Algeria, Finland, Costa Rica, Mexico, Taiwan, USA, Palestine, Iraq, Kosovo, Lithuania, Slovakia, Sudan, Denmark, Colombia, Latvia, Mongolia, Tajikistan, Angola, Argentina, Armenia, South Africa, Hungary, Nigeria. Besides, local investors especially from the cities like Denizli, Bursa, Aydın, Uşak, İzmir, Corlu, Cerkezkoy, Adana, Gaziantep, Şanlıurfa, Kahramanmaraş, Malatya, Diyarbakır, Kayseri, Malatya have participated in the fair and made purchases in considerable amounts. Among the countries where the majority of visitors

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came from, were: Turkey, Germany, Italy, China, India, France, Belgium, Spain, Switzerland, Korea, Taiwan, Japan, and USA. Especially the executives of technology manufacturer companies, who participated in ITM Texpo Eurasia 2013, have emphasized that they found a chance to achieve important business connections and they were satisfied with the potential of visitors. The exhibited machines have found buyers in succession, and similarly some very important technological products which are still in production, or even only prototypes and are not yet produced, have been indented for later purchases. The fair visitors have declared their satisfaction with the opportunity of having a close look at the latest technologies and with the diversity of machineries. The officials of participant firms have mentioned they are pleased with the interest they draw and declared that these fairs are the best ways to reach the Turkish textile market and also to reach the neighboring countries. This great meeting where every participant was pleased will recur in 2016. After this important organization we are proud as a team because “We do the best when we do it.” Indeed, our team has received a great deal of thanking both during and after the fair. The fact that there was no disruption throughout the fair was our pride and joy .We feel joyful over organizing such an important meeting completely and smoothly on behalf our country. We believe that with our trust in the Turkish textile sector and your support, many best ITM organizations are awaiting us. Wishing to meet in many other ITMs all together hand to hand...Sincere thanks to all of you...

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FRENCH TEXTILE MACHINERY French Textile Machinery Hi Tech machinery for Hi Tech textiles UCMTF groups 30 specialty textile machinery manufacturers, often world leaders on their specific markets. Their total annual consolidated turnover of 1 billion Euros (1.3 billion US dollars) makes France the sixth textile machinery exporter. They are particularly strong in long fibre spinning, yarn twisting and texturing, heat setting, Jacquard and dobbies, dyeing, nonwoven and recycling processes. Interview of Bruno AMELINE, the President and Evelyne CHOLET, the Secretary General.

The global economy is growing but it is not the case in Europe and particularly in France. How are the French textile machinery manufacturers doing? We are back to the best levels that we reached before the crisis which hit the global economy in 2008-2010. In 2012, many of our companies have achieved record sales and order intakes. The only drawback of this positive situation is that the delivery lead times may be close to one year and sometimes even more. This means that we have a very good visibility for the whole 2013 and into 2014. Geographically speaking, the differences are huge compared with what prevailed before the crisis. For quite a while our national market for apparel and home textiles has collapsed. More recently, it has been the case also for many of our historical European markets. These markets have shifted to such countries as China and India and to specific places like Turkey but each market can be quite volatile. China has been less buoyant recently but seems to come back; India is very active with the governmental and local investments incentives. For the technical textiles which represent close to 40% of the fiber consumption, the situation is more balanced as the production of these fast growing products is approximately one third in each continent: Europe, the Americas and Asia.

Even if mostly SME's, the French machinery manufacturers have set up a very effective network to offer the best service to most remote customers' locations. We support our clients wherever they operate at least as well as a local supplier could do. We do it through offices, warehouses, agents or distributors. For the spare parts, our members are more and more pro-active, some have recently opened warehouses in important markets to deliver the much awaited parts without transportation lead time and with the right level of service. We work with our clients to help them to introduce new products on their markets, to have reliable and cost efficient production processes. It gives us a real competitive advantage. As we strongly believe that our strategy is right, we are optimistic for our future.

Do you check that the machines you sell are used in safe conditions for the labor force?

You are probably thinking of the collapse of a garment factory in Bangladesh which killed more than 1 000 workers and other such horrible drama. Our machines are not used in the garment industry but in the textile industry. The two are fundamentally different. For example, a T-shirt manufacturer's process is mainly labor intensive. On the contrary very high capital investments are necessary in the textile production. The labor force in the textile industry includes a great number of engineers and highly skilled workers. In order to be efficient in spinning, yarn processing, knitting or weaving the plant itself has to be modern with such equipments as air-conditioning. Then, even if our customers do not face the same risks as some garments makers, more and more the products of our customers have to be both eco-friendly and peoplefriendly. Even though the supply chain in apparel is so complex that it becomes quite abstract to the consumers, the recent events may change that attitude and make it compulsory to be much more vigilant on Do you think it is dangerous to rely on safety. I just read in the news that Bureau Veritas, the such remote markets? global inspection and certification body, had been No. We are not competing on the mass markets like awarded big contracts to check on the safety issues in cotton spinning. Our companies are SME's, designing, Bangladesh. producing and servicing specialized machines offering the latest innovations. This is in our DNA, remember How your association helps the Jacquard, the most well known textile machinery inventor, he was French! Today, with our skills, individual companies. expertise and experience, we develop creative and First of all, after all the reorganization of our industry, we do not compete against each other. innovative solutions for our customers. On the contrary, we offer complementary machines,

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INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE MARKET Trade Textile and Technology


FRENCH TEXTILE MACHINERY sometimes full lines which are very much appreciated from the governments, the international bodies and the by our customers as they can get a single technology judiciary systems. point of entry, it is real competitive advantage. UCMTF is very active to promote our offer worldwide. At major textile shows, UCMTF helps the smaller companies organize a national booth and promote collectively our exhibitors, particularly thanks to its very good relationships with you, the textile media. UCMTF organizes seminars and with the help of Ubifrance and the French local representations, invites the local textile companies to attend. In the last 12 months, UCMTF has focused its efforts on the Indonesian and the Indian markets. I am glad to report that the seminars which took place in Bandung attracted more than 150 Indonesian companies from Jogjakarta, Samarang, Solo and Surabaya and that this March in Delhi and Surat (State of Gujarat) we attracted more than 300 Indian companies. Very interesting contacts have been initiated and it is now up to our companies to follow up on these. The next seminar will be held, in the second semester, in Algeria. Last but not least, UCMTF organizes press conferences and meetings with you, the textile press. We trust you are an efficient and neutral link between the different textile stakeholders. Our website www.ucmtf.com is also a very easy portal to use both for the press and our customers.

Another danger could be the copies, how do you deal with this issue? So far, each company had its own policy but, recently, within our association, we have established an active working group on this strategic topic. We absolutely need to protect our intellectual property, it may be our most important asset. We have collectively concluded that the counterfeited machines or parts come from a small number of countries. We will sue the counterfeiters very aggressively. We have strong arguments: our patents, our brands. Most of our customers who, as I said are our long term partners, understand that this strategy is in their long term best interest. We will become more and more pro-active concerning the use of counterfeited parts as we cannot guarantee a machine which uses counterfeited parts. Each company, national associations and Cematex and the machinery shows have to work together on this strategic sensitive feature of our business. In this war against copycats we receive more and more support

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Is UCMTF active to promote sustainable development? On Wikipedia, I found an interesting definition of sustainable development : a mode of human development in which resource use aims to meet human needs while ensuring the sustainability of natural systems and the environment, so that these needs can be met not only in the present, but also for generations to come. I have been thinking for many years on our responsibilities as industrialists and good citizens. At first, sustainable development and our corporate goals may have looked, at least partly, contradictory. It is actually not. First of all, end users are more and more demanding on sustainability. This is true for all textile products. For apparel or home textiles, the consumers' demands go up to the textile pipeline from the very powerful international brands and distributors up to us, the machinery manufacturers. For technical textiles, the public and private procurement policies follow the same trends. For example, in France, public procurement criteria include sustainability. Another reason is that we design machines and production processes which save energy, water, and raw materials. Our national manufacturers have found many ways: fine tuning the machines, finding new processes for individual machines, optimizing a whole production line. The textile producers of apparel, home textiles and technical textiles are extremely sensitive to energy, water and raw material savings and compare precisely the investment costs and the savings. Often their own desire to promote sustainable development is supported by profitable returns on their investments. I can conclude in a very positive way, which is now embedded in our corporate strategies and for which we invest heavily in technical expertise: to deliver sustainable profits for our companies we have to act in the context of a sustainable development framework for all our stakeholders and for our global community. Our machines, themselves, have to be manufactured to leave the least possible footprint on the environment. We have to put more emphasis on their eco-design, propose upgrading schemes and plan how the materials used will be recycled at the end of their life. UCMTF can promote such policy.

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WEAVING Stäubli Has High Aspirations To Succeed İn Every Market Fritz Legler Head of Marketing, Sales & Service Textile Division, Stäubli

1.Which products of Stäubli were on the foreground at ITM 2013 in Turkey? Clearly our latest generation of shed forming technologies - be it Jacquard machines or dobbies and cam motions, our automation systems with automatic drawing-in machines or warp tying equipment as well as our latest developments arising from our brand Schönherr launching new technology for carpet weavers. Stäubli dobbies of the 3rd generation - series 3000 and 3200 – are built for high-performance weaving applying a new system of locking and selection device. A secure selection of the proper heald frame in the proper sequence according to the weave pattern is everything in shedding. Running speeds of more than 1`000 rpm on weaving machines are possible selecting e.g. the S3260 dobby. Maintenance is reduced and lifespan prolonged. The same principle holds true for our latest generation of cam motions of series 1600 or 1700 for basic weaves.

goblines, brocades, dress material, wall fabrics, terry and silk fabrics, narrow textiles, name-list weaving on selvedges as well as highly technical textiles with jacquard constructions. Our solutions can be used in conjunction with any kind of weaving machines or weft insertion technologies. Coupled with our jacquard machines, our bespoke harnesses can be tailored to customers`needs. Our focus of attention during ITM was certainly our latest SX-series of jacquard machines. The SX jacquard machine is very compact, vibration-free and very user friendly. Our jacquard machines come with the latest generation of controllers JC7 which are equipped with a colour touch screen for easy operation. Furthermore, new electronic components have been added to our jacquard machines to increase the maximum manageable number of hooks. Our bespoke harnesses are delivered with a quick link Stäubli also offers a comprehensive range of versatile connector system for easy and quick changes of jacquard solutions. Our high-performance machines harnesses. are suitable for weaving delicate damasks, tapestries,

S3260 Dobby

SX Jacquard machine

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WEAVING 2.In the 2012 edition of ITM, the Stäubli booth had received great interest from the visitors. What is your strength in the Turkish market? Was ITM 2013 up to your expectations? You are right! 2012 was already a good show for Stäubli. Our customers very much appreciated that we took an active role. The Turkish market has always been important to us. Our strong presence with our local Stäubli company being active out of Istanbul with branch offices in Denizli, Bursa and Gaziantep enables us to be close to our existing and prospective customers. Our dedicated local team also effectively manage our brands Schönherr and Deimo. One of our key principles of our mission is to be here for the long run – we strive to give continuity to our customers. It is our firm intention to make sure that investments made by our customers pay off well over

the life span and use of our products. This is guaranteed through our local and active service and maintenance of our products as well as an active provision of spare parts for a very long time – even longer than the theoretical lifetime of our products. Stäubli really offers far-reaching services to textile manufacturers in Turkey. Proximity to our customers is everyting! The recent ITM exhibition in Istanbul has helped us strengthen our position in your country even further. Investment activity in Turkey has been on a high level for some time now – as such, ITM 2013 delivered what we were hoping for.

3.Can you tell us about the interest for the Alpha 400, one of the Schönherr carpet systems, from the Turkish carpet manufacturers? Are carpet manufacturers in India also interested? Our Schönherr products have reached a very high standing in the Turkish market. The carpet industry in Turkey was not only interested in our Schönherr Alpha 400 but also in our latest development of the Alpha 500 series. This new development opens the door for higher flexibility for different carpet sizes of up to 5.3 meter weaving width. The advantages of the Alpha series were the topic of conversation at this year`s ITM exhibition. Based upon proven and well-known technology, Schönherr products provide increased productivity, flexibility and new design possibilities. Outstanding carpet designs with up to 12 weft colours, unrivalled colour and yarn combinations with double or triple pile or the innovative Magic Weft Effect

binding technology make the difference. Especially for high density carpets with more than 2.5 mio. points per square meter or the Traditional Carpet Effect for hand knotted look, Schönherr impressively showed to existing or prospective customers that in combination with Stäubli jacquard solutions end products without mixed contours are guaranteed. This compared to three-rapier systems with their technical disadvantages. Our customers know that the quality for high end carpets is more important than highest productivity at the expense of inferior quality, mixed contours or missing dots on the back of the carpet. Indian carpet manufacturers are definitely looking more closely at our Schönherr products.

4.Stäubli is also very active providing automation solutions for warp prepartion - what are the highlights? It is correct. Automation and rationalisation are not buzzwords anymore in fabric preparation and weaving. Quick style or warp change systems gain more interest – production machinery has to run – downtimes have to be kept to a minimum. This is hardly possible without efficient and effective warp prepartion systems such as,

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for instance, automatic drawing- in machines. The effective and efficient running of weaving machines has a major impact on profitability. Therefore, quality and efficiency boosting in weaving is key. Automatic drawing-in solutions from Stäubli make economical sense and support further automation

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WEAVING

Delta D110 Drawing-in machine

steps in warp preparation. High drawing-in performance, uninterrupted processes through drawing-in from a warp beam -rendering possible that ends are drawn into drop wires, healds and reeds in one sweep – offer repetitive and guaranteed quality of drawn warp beams. It is inevitable that automatic drawing-in has to guarantee a proper and parallel yarn and color sequence without any double- or crossed ends. Reliable yarn

detection is a key function in order to properly select different or mixed yarn types in same warp, different color repeats or transparent yarns with very high densities in same warps and so forth. Highlights at ITM were our Stäubli Delta Series D100/D110 or our Safir S80 covering two-beam applications or heald frame packages of up to 28 frames or our Safir S30 for filament applications exceeding 200`000 ends drawn in a day.

5.Can you evaluate the Indian textile industry's developments? When you compare the Indian market to other Asian markets, In general, Indian textile manufacturers have differentiated themselves well in what they offer to their customers. In the sense of marketing or a profound market approach, India is, for instance, close to Europe or America or new markets such as e.g. Russia. Global consumers of textile products are very cost-conscious. The quality is taken for granted and

swift adoptions to their fashion and altering clothing requirments is expected. India is very well equipped and production units have been streamlined using more automated and state-of-the art machinery to maintain repeatability and reproducibility at highest quality and lowest cost. Thus, India fares well on the global arena!

6.Can you also say something about your global market share? What are your expectations in 2013 – and especially for India? It is clear that Stäubli has high aspirations to succeed in every market we are in. While our global market share for our textile products is respectable, there is still enough potential to further increase it. It is up to us to satisfy and enthuse our current and prospective

customers that Stäubli offers convincing and innovative product and service solutions with clear benefits in all fields of our offerings. We expect a good year in India.

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INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE MARKET Trade Textile and Technology


GENERAL NEWS 75 Years of Lenzing – 75 Years of Innovation A world market leader celebrates its birthday Lenzing AG is celebrating the 75th anniversary of its business operations together with 3,000 invited guests – employees, customers, business companions, politicians and partners. The company presented the book “75 Years of Innovation” published on this occasion, which honors Lenzing's role as the driving force of innovation in the industry. The global market leader with fibers made of wood Several decades ago there were more than 30 viscose fiber production plants in Europe. Today there are only two, one of which is the headquarters of the internationally operating Lenzing Group. The Austrian company has emerged as a global player as well as the market and technology leader for man-made cellulose fibers. Lenzing fibers were once a cheap substitute for cotton. In the meantime, they are highly sought-after premium products which are valued due to the renewable raw material of wood and the environmentally-compatible production. Thanks to its innovative strength Lenzing has helped the more than 100-year-old viscose technology to reach new heights. Ultimately innovations to minimize the environmental burden of the production process have made Lenzing the best practice model in the industry. At the same time the company developed TENCEL®, a completely new and forward-looking technology which will shape thecellulose fiber industry in the coming decades. 75 years ago Lenzing manufactured 30,000 tons of fibers per year. In the meantime the fiber production volume of the Lenzing Group will soon reach a level of 900,000 tons

July-August 2013

Innovation as the key to success For decades Lenzing boasted above-average expenditures in research and development, thus establishing the company as the pacemaker in the entire sector. Today the Lenzing Group is the undisputed innovation leader in the man-made cellulose fiber industry. The Lenzing Group operates the world's leading research center for cellulose and fiber chemistry at the Lenzing site. About 170 employees work there to further develop products and production technologies. Some 1,400 patents and patent applications in 57 countries demonstrate the effectiveness and performance of this team of specialists. Research expenditures of about USD 30 mn annually underline the importance the Lenzing Group attaches to research and development. An important objective of research projects is to develop ecological production methods and sustainable products with increasingly specialized areas of application. TENCEL®– the fiber technology of the 21st century The further development of TENCEL®technology remains the main focal point of Lenzing's research efforts. In addition to three TENCEL®plants, Lenzing also operates three pilot facilities in which new applications for TENCEL®fibers are developed and tested on a semi-industrial scale. The fourth TENCEL®factory, involving investments of more than EUR 130 mn, is currently under construction at the Lenzing site in Upper Austria. It will commence operations in 2014 and mark the next technological step for TENCEL®.

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GENERAL NEWS Joining Force with Zhejiang Government - Bring you the Strongest Trading Platform for Knitting Machinery Open the Door to Emission Reduction, Energy-Saving and Automation With 13 years' experience and development, The China (Yiwu) International Exhibition on Hosiery, Knitting, Dyeing & Finishing Machinery (hereinafter as “YIWU KNITTING”) has become a highly internationalized and professional exhibition specializing in knitting technology. From 2013 onwards, the show will join force with Zhejiang Government and her exhibition, The China Yiwu International Manufacturing Equipment Expo, and stage concurrently at Yiwu International Expo Center on 19-22 November, 2013. With theme on automatic garment machinery, The 3rd China (Yiwu) International Exhibition on Automatic Garment Machinery & Sewing Equipment (hereinafter as “YIWU SEWING”) will also be staged concurrently. With a wide variety of thematic zones, the exhibitions will bring new opportunities for exhibitors and buyers who are eager to have technological transformation and upgrading in textile industry.

in China are exported every year. In Jan-Oct 2012, Yiwu's export in garment & accessories valued at USD 1.83 billion while there was only 30.1% of the total value of exports at the same period last year. The above data shows that knitted garment not only has become an important part of modern clothing, but also an important position in fashion design, research & development and production. YIWU KNITTING Extends from a Professional Exhibition to a High-end Sourcing Platform

Having been serving the industry for 12 years, "YIWU KNITTING" focus on business effectiveness and integrated market demand. The show is renowned as the leader of knitting and hosiery industry and also the preferred sourcing platform for enterprises to get latest information. The exhibition runs through the upstream and downstream industry in order to showcase a comprehensive picture of the latest knitting technology, the high-end and fashion concept which Tapping into the Market Pulse for Business lead the rapid development of the industry. Opportunities YIWU KNITTING provides buyers with one-stop Knitted garments play an important role in fashion sourcing and exchange platform, whichhas attracted industry. It becomes the hottest costumes both in the numerous local and international buyers and public and fashion world. With the rapid development associations to visit the show. In 2012, the exhibition of clothing industry, the changes of consumption reached an area of 12,000 sqm and displayed over 400 concept and the improvement of living standard, sets of high-end hosiery and knitting related machinery together with the continuous enhancement of knitting by 153 exhibitors from 11 countries and regions, and dyeing & finishing technology and diversified including France, Germany, Hong Kong SAR, Italy, applications on raw materials, knitted garment industry Korea, PR China, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan has entered a high-end development stage. China's Province, Turkey and United Kingdom. knitting industry trend towards globalization is YIWU KNITTING has received enormous support irreversible. from industry players, more than 10 associations and The statistics show that over 40% of knitted garments enterprise delegations visited the show last year

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INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE MARKET Trade Textile and Technology


GENERAL NEWS (2012), including Wenzhou Chamber of CommerceLadies Wear Branch and Nanjing Women's Clothing Chamber of Commerce, which were the first time to organize delegations and 20 enterprises were grouped respectively to visit and source at onsite. It was also the 4th year that Hanning Hosiery Industry Association organized a group of over 30 enterprises to visit the show. Besides, Pujiang County Knitting, Printing and Dyeing Industry Association, Pujiang Clothing Industry Association, Jinhua Chamber of Commerce, etc. have also attended the show. Corporate representatives including MengNa Hosiery, Langsha Group, China Bonas Group, Zhejiang Manzi Knitting, Wanyu Knitting, Jodoll Garment, Kingeagle Group, etc. have come to visit the shows. Their attendance have further proven the importance and uniqueness of the shows as well as brought unlimited business opportunities to exhibitors. The 4-day shows recorded 10,866 attendance of professional trade visitors and buyers, which affirmed YIWU KNITTING to be a highly professional and international exhibition which brings abundant business opportunities.

Glove Industry Association, as well as Pujiang County Knitting, Printing and Dyeing Industry Association. Concurrent Exhibition

The 3rd China (Yiwu) International Exhibition on Automatic Garment Machinery & Sewing Equipment Please visit the official website for more details: www.yiwusewing.com Connect with us weibo.com/yiwutexandsewing www.facebook.com/yiwutex Issued by Adsale Exhibition Services Ltd.

Exhibiting Enquiry: Hong Kong: Ms. Crystal Lee Fully Support by the Provincial Government Tel: (852) 2516 3520 “ YIWU KNITTING 2013� is organized by The Fax: (852) 2516 5024 People's Government of Zhejiang Province; co- Email: textile@adsale.com.hk organized by Zhejiang Province Economic and Information Commission, Department of Commerce Visiting / Press Enquiry: of Zhejiang Province, Science and Technology Hong Kong: Ms. Grace Lau / Ms. Fiona Pang Department of Zhejiang Province, Municipalities Tel: (852) 2516 3363 / 2516 3348 People's Government, Yiwu Municipal People's Fax: (852) 2516 5024 Government, Adsale Exhibition Services Ltd. and Email: publicity@adsale.com.hk supported by China Chamber of International Commerce Yiwu Chamber of Commerce, Yiwu City Official Website of YIWU KNITTING & SEWING: Hosiery Industry Association, Yiwu City Braiding www.yiwutex.com, www.yiwusewing.com Industry Association, Yiwu City Seamless Knitting Adsale Group: www.adsale.com.hk Association, Yiwu City Zipper Industry Association, Adsale Textile Website: www.AdsaleCTA.com, Yiwu City Garment Industry Association, Yiwu City www.AdsaleATA.com

July-August 2013

41


GENERAL NEWS New Textile Machinery Shipments Down in 2012 But New Record in Circular Knitting Machines After a sharp reduction in global shipments of new textile machinery in 2008 and 2009 as a result of the global financial and economic crisis in 2008/2009, deliveries of new textile machinery jumped in 2010 and 2011, in most cases to new record highs. In 2012 shipments of new textile machinery fell in most segments in comparison to 2011. Looking at the past few years shipments remained relatively high. In comparison to 2011 global shipments of new shortstaple spindles and open-end rotors decreased by 27% and -21%, respectively, whereas shipments of longstaple spindles increased by +29%. Shipments of new draw-texturing spindles declined by -13%, of new shuttle-less looms by -44%, and of new electronic flatknitting machines by -34%. On the other hand worldwide shipments of new large circular knitting machines increased in 2012 by+27%.These are the main results of the 35th annual International Textile Machinery Shipment Statistics (ITMSS) just released by the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF). The report covers six segments of textile machinery, namely spinning, draw-texturing, weaving, large circular knitting, flat knitting and finishing machinery. The 2012 survey has been compiled in cooperation with some 122 textile machinery manufacturers, representing a comprehensive measure of world production. SpinningMachinery After shipments of new short-staple spindles plummeted in 2008 (-33%) and 2009 (-17%) they soared in 2010 (+75%) to pre-crisis levels and increased in 2011 by a further +15% reaching 14.33 million, an all-time high. In 2012 shipments of shortstaple spindles fell by -27% to 10.51 million spindles. In 2012 94% of all shipped short-staple spindles were destined for Asia (9.91 million), with China alone absorbing 6.39 million or 65% of global shipments, followed by India as distant second (1.97 million spindles or 19%), Indonesia (594,000 or 5.7%), Turkey (441,000 or 4.2%) and Bangladesh (231,000 or 2.2%). Global shipments of long-staple (wool) spindles soared in 2012 by +29% to 146,400. Europe was the main recipient (77,000 or 53%), followed by Asia (65,600 or 45%), the Americas (3,300 or 2.3%) and Africa (430 or 0,3%). The single biggest investor in long-staple (wool) spindles was Turkey (60,300), followed by Thailand (29,100), China (27,300), Italy (9,400) and

Iran (6,800). Investments in open-end rotors fell in 2012 by -21% to 451,200. Asia was once again by far the biggest investor in this spinning technology installing in total 408,260 new rotors or 90% of global shipments. By country, China was again by far the biggest single investor in rotors absorbing 363,950 or 81% of global shipments. India was again distant second with a total of 19,400 new open-end rotors (4.3%), followed by Turkey with 17,500 rotors (3.9%), Brazil with 11,100 rotors (2.5%), Uzbekistan with 8,900 rotors (2.0%) and Malaysia with 6,800 rotors (1.5%). TexturingMachinery In 2012 there were no shipments of single heater drawtexturing spindles (mainly used for polyamide filaments). From 2010 to 2011 shipments fell from 13,200 to 1,824 (-86%). In the segment of double heater draw-texturing spindles (mainly used for polyester filaments) investments dropped from an all time high of 826,500 texturing spindles in 2011 to 717,800, a decrease of -13%. 90% of all shipments went to Asia. By far the biggest single investor of this type of draw-texturing machinery was again China where 489,600 new spindles or 68% of global shipments were installed, followed by distant second India with 44,400 or 6.2%, Thailand and Japan with 36,500 or 5.1% each, and Turkey with 17,000 or 2.4%. Weaving Machinery Worldwide shipments of shuttle-less looms plummeted in 2012 to 86,450 machines, a fall of -44% from last year's record of 153,750. The main reason behind this development is the decline in shipments of water-jet looms. After a skyrocketing jump of +537% to 73,250 in 2010 and to 112,930 in 2011, which was partially due to the fact that more weaving machinery manufacturers reported for the first time in 2010, global deliveries of water-jet shuttle-less looms dropped by -65% to 39,920 machines in 2012. In the shuttle-less loom segment of rapier/projectile looms shipments increased from 19,250 in 2011 to 23,250 in 2012, an increase of +20%. Also deliveries of shuttle-less air-jet looms increased from 21,500 in 2011 to 23,300 in 2012 (+8%). As in previous years the main destination of shuttle-less looms was Asia, where 80,600 or 93% of all new shuttle-less looms were installed. Country-wise the

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INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE MARKET Trade Textile and Technology


GENERAL NEWS biggest global investor was again China with 58,900 looms (68%), of which 34,400 were water-jet looms, 16,000 air-jet looms and 8,500 rapier/projectile looms. With 10,200 looms (12%) of global shipments India was the second biggest investor, followed by Indonesia with 3,730 (4.3%), Turkey with 2,570 looms (3.0%), Bangladesh with 1,600 (1.9%) and Korea with 1,350 looms(1.6%). Circular & Flat Knitting Machinery Global shipments of large circular knitting machines increased by +27% from 28,900 in 2011 to 36,650 in 2012 which set a new record. Also in this segment Asia was the main regional investor in this type of machinery absorbing 33,600 units or 92% of all machines shipped in 2012. The biggest single investor was once more China with a total of 28,280 (a global market share of 77%) followed by Turkey with 1,420 (or 3.9%), Indonesia with 1,350 (or 3.7%), India with 1,200 (or 3.3%) and Bangladesh with 735 (or 2.0%). In the segment of electronic flat knitting machines,

global shipments in 2012 dropped by -34% to 46,100 machines. The bulk of global shipments of electronic flat knitting machines was delivered to Asia (40,940 or 89%), while Europe's share (including Turkey) reached 10% (= 4,670 machines). The biggest single investor in 2012 was again China, where 33,040 new machines (72%) were installed, followed by Bangladesh with 4,360 (9.5%), Turkey with 2,660 (5.8%), Hong Kong with 1,090 (2.4%) and Italy with 826 (1.8%). Finishing Machinery The 2012 edition of ITMF's International Textile Machinery Shipments Statistics included for the eight time also data on finishing machinery (wovens and knits continuous machinery). Source :www.itmf.org

Binsfeld Launches Expanded Website Binsfeld Engineering is pleased to announce the launch of its expanded website: www.binsfeld.com. The new site includes the full Binsfeld product offering including rotary temperature transmitters as well as wireless telemetry systems for measuring torque and power on rotating shafts. Stephen Tarsa, CEO, explained that originally the two main product lines (temperature transmitters and torque telemetry systems) were supported with individual websites. “Although each product line serves distinct markets, by presenting all our products within the www.binsfeld.com site we will consolidate our online resources and therefore provide a better reference for all our customers while strengthening the Binsfeld brand.�

From the News & Events section of the site visitors can stay informed of the latest company news and promotion activities such as new product releases and upcoming exhibitions. The company is already working on more enhancements to the site including a mobile-friendly version. Binsfeld Engineering rotary transmitters are used to provide accurate and reliable temperature control for heated godets and calenders used in the textile industry. Binsfeld Engineering wireless telemetry systems are used to measure torque and power on rotating shafts in a variety of industries including manufacturing, heavy machinery and marine propulsion.

For more information, visit www.binsfeld.com, or The new www.binsfeld.com site features extensive contact Mike Kawiecki, information for each product model including product (+1) 919-210-5220, info@binsfeld.com. overview, detailed specifications, user manual, product warranty and access to pricing. The site also features installation and training videos and helpful calculators.

July-August 2013

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heimtextil INDIA

GENERAL NEWS Heimtextil India 2014 to be the focal point of the Indian home textile market After launching successful trade fairs for the technical textile and nonwovens sector, the lighting industry and most recently the automotive aftermarket, Messe Frankfurt will draw focus to India as a pivotal market for home textiles with Heimtextil India 2014. To better address the home dÊcor needs of a dynamic, expanding domestic market, the trade fair will be held from 19 –21 June, the buying season in India, in Hall 11 of Pragati Maidan, New Delhi. One of the largest in the world, India's home textile market plays a major role in the country's economy. Household incomes and the sale of apartments are constantly on the rise. An increase in PPP has resulted in substantial investments in the home decor and furnishings segments across all economic classes, thus expanding the domestic market. With all the favourable conditions needed to become a global leader in the sector, it has become essential for India to have a globally renowned trade and networking arena to address the needs of the domestic home and contract textiles market. As a brand, Heimtextil has captured the attention and imagination of the home textile industry the world over. Deriving the same business opportunities, Heimtextil India 2014 will be a vital business platform perfectly tailored to highlight the depth, quality and consistency of the home textiles industry in India. Manufacturers, distributors, suppliers and designers along with institutional buyers, sourcing houses, and large and standalone retail outlets will have access to the latest trends, technologies, designs and developments in interior and contract textile products,

classified into the nine, all-encompassing product categories of: Bedroom, Bath linen, Table linen, Kitchen textiles, Window decorations, Furniture fabric salon, Textile floor coverings, Walls of the world and Design & technology. "Heimtextil India is a much needed industry platform that will put the Indian market on a global stage. Besides serving as a trend and technology barometer, companies looking to expand their customer base and develop new markets will find Heimtextil India the prefect platform from which they can attain these business goals. The 2014 edition of Heimtextil India will be more innovative and relevant than ever before," exclaimed Mr Raj Manek, Managing Director, Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India. Since the show's announcement, Heimtextil India 2014 has garnered tremendous domestic and international support with expected country pavilions from China, G e r m a n y, t h e U A E a n d s e v e r a l o t h e r countries/regions. With the early bird discount available till 31 August 2013, bookings for exhibition space are pouring in, providing a positive outlook for a very successful edition of the show. For more information about the event, please visit www.heimtextil.in. For more details on Heimtextil India 2014 please contact: Tel.: +91-22-6144 5900 info@india.messefrankfurt.com / info@heimtextil.in www.messefrankfurtindia.in

Messe Frankfurt is one of the world's leading trade fair organiser, with 538* million Euros in sales and 1,891* active employees worldwide. The Messe Frankfurt Group has a global network of 28 subsidiaries and approx. 50 international Sales Partners, giving it a presence for its customers in more than 150 countries. Events "made by Messe Frankfurt" take place at more than 30 locations around the globe. In 2012, Messe Frankfurt organised 109* trade fairs, of which more than half took place outside Germany. Messe Frankfurt's exhibition grounds, featuring 578,000 square metres, are currently home to ten exhibition halls and an adjacent Congress Centre. The company is publicly owned, with the City of Frankfurt holding 60 per cent and the State of Hesse 40 per cent. For more information, please visit our website at: www.messefrankfurt.com

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INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE MARKET Trade Textile and Technology











TM

More than an Evenness tester. The Quality Expert PREMIER iQ2 with innovative features and unique graphical representation unveils the knowledge base of the future. , the Quality Expert analyses the test data, troubleshoots the exceptions and provides a ready to use platform of unrivaled Knowledge base to accelerate the process of understanding and the corrective response time

VL Curve Analysis Automatic Variance Length (VL) Curve analysis of the defective Spinning process / department

Drafting Wave Analysis Automatic analysis of the drafting wave to identify the defective draft zone

Intelligent Alerts Intelligent alert prompts the user to look into specific ‘exceptions’ while testing

Hyper Sensitive Imperfections

Thin (-25%) Thick (+25%)

Thin -25 %, Thick +25 %

and

Neps +100 % opens up new process control possibilities

Neps (+100%)

Imperfection Distribution Sensitivity %

Independent distribution charts for Thin, Thick and Neps enable the user to visualise whether the fault is clustered or spread across the test length Test Length (m)

Additional Options Hairiness Index, Hair Count and Hair Severity > 3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

Fabric and Black Board Simulation

Slub and Fancy Yarn Measurement


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