issue â„–
54
the ultimate food platform
june 2017
editorial
Just like that, I’m buzzed awake by hot sunbeams pouring into my bedroom, drives are now accompanied by a stinging sensation on my arm, open windows barely carry a breeze, and more than threequarters of my wardrobe has become functionally useless. To say that I struggle with heat is an understatement. Though I can enjoy a good day at the beach, I find the sun-bleached skies and blinding grey tarmac wear me down more than I’d like. Half the year is gone, and it’s gone by so quickly, too. Talk about going from the frying pan into the fire. Treats have been important; such as birthday-inspired vanilla-cake which is as good as it is simple, a stern what’s-what about how superior olives are to peas, a chicken tricolor recipe that the heat cannot beat, a keen eye’s account of food markets in Barcelona, the debut of some submitted and anonymous insider-insights from service professionals, a heartful account of what it means to prepare for marriage and what on earth that could have to do with food, a little thing about our man in Mendoza and how lovely beef and wine can be, and mainstays like mapping the ingredient and our visual ingredient of the month, and something from The Fictionalist’s Guide.
Content LOCAL 7 THE OMNIPOTENT OLIVE 22
MAPPING THE INGREDIENT -
SOY SAUCE
Preservatives are important; to food, to economy, to the wellbeing of a people.
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A PERSON WITH AN EXTRA
PAIR OF HANDS
Greeting people; taking orders; preparing drinks, food; mixing ingredients; cooking; ensuring that everything comes out simultaneously; serving; restocking and replenishing the bar, kitchen inventory and supplies; issuing checks; complying with all beverage, nutrition, sanitation regulations and safety standards; collecting payments; nurturing an excellent guest experience.
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PREPARING FOR A MARITIAL DINNER
I’m 24. Working in music studios in London. THIS PUBLICATION IS BEING DISTRIBUTED AS PART OF:
All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole, or in part, is strictly prohibited without written permission. Opinions expressed in Cibus are not necessarily those of the editor-in-chief or publisher. All reasonable care is taken to ensure truth and accuracy, but the editor-inchief and publisher cannot be held responsible for errors or omissions in articles, advertising, photographs or illustrations. The editor-in-chief is not responsible for material submitted for consideration. Executive editor Jamie Iain Genovese (cibus@timesofmalta.com) Publisher Allied Newspapers Ltd. Printing Progress Press Co. Ltd. Production Allied Newspapers Ltd. Design Krista Bugeja Advertising Sales Marisa Schembri (tel: 2559 4216; marisa.schembri@timesofmalta.com)
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A fiancée.
TABLE FOREGONE
Hosting guests to a restaurant meal is akin to a
46
journey into the unexpected.
EVERY STORY HAS TO START
SOMEWHERE
When I was seven years old, there was a chilli pepper on the kitchen counter one morning, so I picked it up and put it in my mouth.
nts
RECIPES 4 VANILLA CAKE WITH ICING
4
Equal amounts butter, sugar and flour.
14
More eggs than you think you need.
CHICKEN TRICOLOR
Because this chicken has more than a hint of the Italian in it,
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with that rather distinctive addition of pesto Genovese.
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FICTIONALIST GUIDE: IN SEARCH OF LOST
TIME AND TASTY MADELEINES
26 FEATURES 17 BARCELONA - LA FIRA DE LA TIERRA 26
The City of Summertime Artisan Markets.
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32
30
OUR MAN IN MENDOZA
Life is very fine in these vines, says Stanley Borg.
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CHEF BOLTON
Confessions & other secrets.
PUT YOUR MONEY WHERE YOUR MOUTH IS
Where do the fields of gastronomy, craft and sustainability meet?
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3
RECIPE
o u m n a t l a qE u S BY AND PHOTO RECIPE
Jamie iain Genov ese
4 CIBUS | jUne 2017
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n a d r a f g l o u s i n h t k , u y o r o y e u an t h t t s buore eGG
RECIPE
VANILLA CAKE WITH ICING INGREDIENTS 450g salted butter + a bit extra for the dish 450g self-raising f lour 450g sugar 1 heaped teaspoon baking powder 8 eggs vanilla essence
Occasionally you will need some milk 800g icing sugar 200g salted butter ½ teaspoon vanilla essence pinch of salt
METHOD Remember to preheat your oven - 180C fan assisted. Start by creaming the butter and sugar, an electric stand mixer is a Godsend if you have one, but this can also be done with a fork or wooden spoon. With a mixer, you will see the butter lighten in colour as air is incorporated with it, with a fork or spoon you will see your biceps grow; it’s the small victories. At this point you can begin incorporating the eggs and vanilla, as it becomes more manoeuvrable switch to a whisk if you’re doing this by hand. Sift the f lour and baking powder and add it in bit by bit, whisking along the way. You’re looking for quite a loose batter - pourable. Somehow, every time you make it the consistency will differ which is where the variable amount of milk comes in. If you disobeyed the very clear instructions and used unsalted butter, here’s a new instruction: add a pinch. I occasionally add one above and beyond the salted butter because i love the salty-sweet contrast so much. Pour it out into a well buttered dish, I generally prefer glass, and have found that keeping it shallow not only ensures quicker cooking times but also helps maintain a more even moisture. Remember to adjust cooking times accordingly - longer and lower heat for deeper dishes, faster and hotter for shallow ones. Chuck it in your preheated oven and try your best to ignore it for at least 25 minutes, at which point you may glance at it. They say baking is chemistry so put on your safety goggles and let’s get scientific: If it looks gloriously golden and potentially solid you may give the tray a little wiggle. If the wiggle results in a jiggle, the centre is still liquid so quickly close the oven and avoid it for a good 10-15 minutes before testing again. On passing the wiggle test you may move onto the stabbing test we all know and love; if the stabbing device comes out of the cake wet try again in 5-10 minutes but the second it comes out clean it’s time to remove it from the heat. If you are in a rush, you can risk f lipping it early (it is less solid when warm and more likely to break) because taking it out of the hot dish will speed the cooling process. If you plan to shape the cake I highly recommend snacking on excess from now because warm cake is the bomb. If you’re anything like me you will be too sugar sick from all the frosting and cake batter to eat a slice once it’s time to serve.
For the frosting: slowly add the icing sugar to the butter, start with a fork and move onto a wire whisk (or don’t. You do you, kids). Add in a pinch of salt and the vanilla essence as you go along, if you’re adding colour now is your chance. Depending on your climate you may need to add milk to it to achieve the soft peak consistency that we all strive for. The best way to ice a cake is to first cover it with a thin layer of frosting called a crumb coat - so named because crumbs tend to mix into it, thereby preventing crumbs from mixing into the outer layer of frosting we present to people. Putting it in the fridge for a bit after the crumb coat makes it even easier to prevent mixing when you apply the official layer! I like to use a spatula and then add texture with a fork for that more rustic feel. Variations: You’ve just made a basic vanilla cake! +1 For bonus points, you can add or substitute ingredients as needed. Want chocolate? Substitute a few spoons of f lour for cocoa powder! Chocolate chips are your kryptonite? Add them! Citrus juice and rind, and maybe some poppy seeds, make for a nice change to the usual. The world is your oyster, your imagination your only limit. (... aside from your common sense, no one wants a tuna f lavoured cake people what is wrong with you??) Further still you can edit your frosting to match; adding cocoa powder or lemon juice, just watch that your consistency remains, well, consistent.
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5
the
o t p i n mo ent
olive
t started off as a lovely experience in every respect. the food was mouth-watering and the banter was quick-witted and light-hearted. it had all the elements of a great day out. it was not until the early afternoon, when the wine started flowing and inhibitions began to fade that i entered into one of the longest food-related rants i have ever bothered wasting saliva on. the rant’s inception was a trivial question inquired in an attempt to stifle the lull in conversation that had befallen the otherwise funfilled event. “Which are better- peas or olives?” the guest inquired. the answer seemed so obvious to me that i didn’t even bother replying at first. it was not until a number of attendees chimed in claiming that peas are without a doubt better than olives that i felt the need to set them straight. the following is a less fervent, more compact version of the case i pleaded on behalf of olives. one that should, in all honesty, really have gone without saying. the olive is not only a delicious fruit to include in a multitude of dishes, it also has a charming history that adds to its appeal. in ancient greece, the olive branch was seen as a symbol of peace, prosperity and victory. in the ancient
FEATURE
WORDS BY
Fran Borg Costanzi
olympic games, the victorious athletes were crowned with an olive wreath as a reward for their success. also, according to greek mythology, the olive tree was said to be the greatest endowment ever given to mankind. the myth claims that the first olive tree was created by athena, goddess of wisdom, as a gift in a competition against Poseidon to become the protector of athens. the olive branch is also seen as a symbol of peace and fertility in Christianity. in the old testament, it was an olive branch that the dove brought to noah to indicate that there was fertile land close by and that the storm was over. in the more recent secular appearances, the olive branch still stands as a symbol of peace. the olive Branch Petition was so-called because it was a final attempt to keep the peace between Britain and america and avoid the fullon revolutionary war that ended the colonisation in 1776. nowadays, the term ‘to extend an olive branch’ is a commonly used idiom which refers to making an offer of peace or reconciliation. the process of growing olives requires a considerable amount of patience but it is definitely worth the wait. an olive tree can take up to twenty years to produce an edible crop which must then be cured. the easiest way to cure olives is through a brining method. the brine can be made using water, salt and a single egg. the water is warmed in a pan and the salt stirred in until it dissolves.
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FEATURE
the egg (with shell and all) is then added to the solution as a gauge of the salt level in the water. if the egg floats, there is a sufficient amount of salt. if it sinks, more salt should be added. the water is left to cool and then combined with the rinsed, pitted olives in a clean jar and stored in a dark cupboard for a period of time that is proportionate to the size of the olives, their ripeness and the desired saltiness. a number of ingredients can be added to the olives once the brining period is over to augment their already delectable taste. these include chillies, fennel, wine vinegar, garlic, onions, almonds, mushrooms, anchovies, pimentos; the list is endless and delightful. You can basically prepare your olives to your specific taste and desires or personalise a jar of olives for a friend by adding their favourite seasoning to it. a great low budget Christmas present.
as i ended my rave and took a deep breath in to replenish the oxygen supply to my brain, i glanced around the table at the people looking at me. some nodded, others tried to get a handle on their level of intoxication and one person who was previously of the leguminous persuasion said i had a point. i took this as a win and decided to end this experience on a high and got up to leave. in an attempt to have a ‘mic drop’ moment, i fashioned a garland out of leaves from a nearby shrub on my way out in lieu of an olive wreath and crowned myself in victory. it was, perhaps, an unnecessary tirade but definitely not a fruitless one.
es parm
white mushrooms, onions, garlic
, olives,
bread crumb s,
olives play a major part in most of my favourite dishes. i just cannot get away from those wee drops of saliferous goodness, nor do i want to. the first of these dishes is the traditionally Maltese Ħobż Biż-Żejt. tomato paste, tuna, olives, goat’s cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, a leaf of basil, a sprinkle of pepper and a drizzle of olive oil sandwiched between two slices of crunchy Maltese bread is the ideal snack for a hot summer’s day. it is fresh and is as light as it is luscious. the combination of the salty olives, tuna and the juicy tomatoes makes this sandwich a Maltese gem. it might be the specificity of my palate but i, personally, love the amalgamation of olives, fish and tomatoes. greek-style baked fish with pitted black olives, capers, feta cheese, lemon and pepper is another plate that hits the spot in the hot season. Enough substance to be satisfied but not so much that you feel six months pregnant at the beach afterwards — the perfect balance when you want to tan in the sun while you digest.
generous amount of effort into the meal. another olive-based vegetarian-friendly hors d’oeuvre that i love is olive pâté. olive pâté is a blend of pitted olives, black pepper and garlic cloves roasted with olive oil. it can be served with just a bowl of crackers or a sliced loaf of bread and can keep guests’ mouths full when you get to that point in the night where you’ve run out of wine and the will to make conversation. Perfection.
olives make a perfect addition to starters and finger food too. olive-stuffed mushrooms are an easy, delicious way of satisfying the vegetarians at a dinner party while everyone else gorges on the meat-filled appetizers. the ingredients needed for this toothsome concoction are white mushrooms, onions, garlic, olives, breadcrumbs, parmesan cheese, parsley, rosemary, olive oil and pepper. it’s not too pricey or difficult to make and it takes all of twenty minutes to prepare. the result is heavenly and these bite-sized filled fungi are the perfect way to seem like you’ve put a 8 CIBUS | jUne 2017
rosemar , y e l s r a s e, p e e h c an
y, olive oil and pepper
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Available from all leading supermarkets, or directly for our store in San Gwann, The Bakery Shop, which now also accepts POYC vouchers.
COMMUNITY
ST PATRICK’S SALESIAN SCHOOL from hunger and as much as one-third of the world’s food wasted each year, we at KFC believe that simply redirecting surplus food to those in need will make a tremendous impact.”
Through Harvest, KFC Malta is donating surplus food product to St Patrick’s Salesian School in Sliema, who will repurpose the donated food to create protein- and nutrient-rich meals for the boys in their care. St Patrick’s Salesian School offers care and education to children and young persons who need specific support usually due to their family situation.
“The Harvest program is a simple method for donating items we cannot sell to people in need,” said Kurt Micallef, Business Manager at Food Chain Limited. “We are so proud of the way our team members have responded to this program, and we are thrilled to work with KFC stores around the world as we tackle the issues of food waste and hunger.”
When participating in Harvest, restaurant team members package unsold and wholesome food into approved containers and store the product safely in the restaurant’s freezer. With assistance from Food Donation Connection, each restaurant is partnered with a local charity and coordinates a weekly pickup schedule while tracking the donations to ensure safety and quality.
John Bonello Ghio, Group Head of Food Business at Farsons Group added, “With 1 in 9 people around the world suffering 10 CIBUS | jUne 2017
Fr Charles Said from St Patrick’s Salesian School says that the Harvest Programme serves many purposes. “It is about creating solidarity, working as a team, creating collaboration between businesses and charitable societies, avoiding waste of food, being generous, sharing our resources with others, being of service and ready to accompany others in their needs. All these values are part and parcel of the Harvest Programme. It is serving us well and giving our children an opportunity to enjoy one of their favourite foods.”
The KFC brand globally has been affiliated with Harvest since 1999, helping Yum! donate more than 32 million kilograms of food to more than 3,000 non-profit organisations worldwide. KFC is committed to further expanding this program around the globe with a simple vision – a world without hunger. The Harvest programme helps the brand get closer to that goal each and every day by supporting those in need, right around the corner from the restaurants. For more information about Yum! and the Harvest programme visit: http://www.yum.com/responsibility/community/harvestfood-donation. KFC is operated in Malta by Food Chain Limited, a member of the Farsons Group. Follow KFC Malta on Facebook: www.facebook.com/KFCmalta or visit www.kfc.com.mt.
PROMO
TRENDI What started out as a brand supplying basic items like cling film, aluminium foil, and baking paper has now become an extensive range of exciting yet useful products including aluminium foil containers, baking cases, forks, knives, spoons, teaspoons, paper and plastic cups, straws, freezer lunch bags, ice-cube bags and many more. What’s more, we have recently added/amended new sizes for the aluminium foil, cling film, and the baking paper. Keeping the quality at the centre of this project, we have given the packaging an improved new look. We suggest you look out for these! Malta’s weather is ideal for BBQs, hence the creation of our very own Trendi BBQ pack. It was a huge hit when launched and the good news is, we have upgraded the
pack, and now includes: 10 cups, 10 plates, 10 luxury forks & knives, 10 wet wipes, one garbage bag, 10 sauce sachets (five mayonnaise and five ketchup), 10 salt and pepper, and a packet of 100 napkins. The complete set that leaves you wanting for nothing! Obviously, disposables are very convenient and easy to use, however, we would like to advise the public to dispose of all items responsibly. We cannot stress enough the importance to reduce, re-use, and recycle when and where possible. For more info please visit www.facebook.com/ Trendisposables
StRand PalaCe MeatS ltd.
CRUSTED LAMB RACK peppers coulis, chips pomme violette INGREDIENTS 200g lamb rack 50g toasted hazelnut 50g toasted pistachio 1 bay leaves thyme rosemary garlic GARNISH 1 blue potato, 1 red pepper 1 yellow pepper, 1 orange pepper
METHOD Season the lamb rack and put in a vacuum bag with herbs, garlic, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil Cook sous vide for 45 minutes at 54°C to get it rare. FOR THE GARNISH Roast the peppers in the oven, at 200°C for 30/35 minutes, once cooked cover it with cling film and leave it to rest for 10 minutes. Take off the skin and blend it, keeping it separate by the colour. Meanwhile slice blue potato very thin and fry it in oil at 150°C. Take out the lamb from the bag, and sear it in a very hot pan and crust it with hazelnut and pistachio. COMPOSE THE DISH Put in a plate the combinations of the peppers coulis, chips potato, the lamb rack. Finish it with some herbs (dill,lavander).
Giuseppe Strippoli Chef Patron of Chapter One Restaurant, situated in St Julians near Portomaso. His cuisine is inspired by the freshness and quality of the ingredients, using modern techniques due to his maturation when working and travelling around the world, this influenced his way to cook. Offering a fine dining event in a modern and elegant atmosphere.
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RECIPE
n e k c i h C lo r rT ico
WORDS AND PHOTOS BY
jamie iain genovese
B
ecause this chicken has more than a hint of the italian in it, with that rather distinctive addition of pesto genovese, and because, against the white of the creme fraiche stand out the pesto green and cherry tomato red, this chicken proudly flies the italian flag, despite probably not being even remotely italian in origin. and, at that, we almost have all the ingredients of this light summer recipe which has a base of — no prizes for guessing — chicken. never has that bland breast been so delightfully sizzled up as with this great tasting combination of flavours. it’s also a wonderful remedy for that bane of cooks everywhere.... leftovers that are still good to eat, but have turned ever so boring and unappealing overnight (almost like that first date, in fact). so, Fillet and cut into strips a whole chicken if your homemade pesto is languishing in the breast and fry lightly in olive oil. fridge threatening to go rotten on you, because Halve the cherry tomatoes (a carton would you can’t face yet another plate of pasta al pesto, do nicely as a portion) and add them to the here comes chicken to the rescue. chicken. Simple and summery. And requiring the minimum of time at the stove (always a blessing in this heat). A guaranteed favourite.
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As things start turning a pale shade of red, empty a jar of creme fraiche into the mix until it all starts to almost come to the boil; at which point, you can cool things down by adding around three tablespoons (depending on its strength) of homemade pesto. And no, the readymade stuff doesn’t quite cut it here. Maybe even add a bit more, to taste. Sprinkle some chopped basil leaves before serving over rice or with a side of roast potatoes... or just use the basil as garnish.
RECIPE
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PROMO
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FEATURE
WORDS BY
round the globe, many towns and cities are host to open air markets of various kinds. in europe, during the Summertime, markets pop up everywhere, every weekend. on the top of the list of market hot spots, is barcelona. With over ten permanent markets in the city centre, the Spring and Summer months, attract hundreds more onto the urban scene. For generations, open air markets have featured artisan, as well as locally sourced and sustainably produced products and services. in recent years, these themes have been emerging on a global scale in indie subcultures and now in popular culture. barcelona is on the cutting edge, once again; this time for progressive and sustainable initiatives, organizations and movements. also notable - this bustling city is acclaimed internationally for its deliciously remarkable foodie culture. in a city where sustainability takes the front seat, markets such as la Fira de la Terra are held in what could arguably be called the cultural epicenter of the city - Parc Ciutadella. “The earth Fair was first held in barcelona in 1996� (barcelona yellow).
bailey lalonde
Many tourists, and barcelona locals alike, who are lucky enough to stumble upon this gem, surely call this park their favorite spot in the city. on any given day, you will find people from all over the world relaxing, picnicking, playing music as well as many group meet ups such as acro yoga, tight rope walking and tai chi. My personal favorite semipermanent installation is the african drum circle which can be found in the centre of the park; jamming out with an eclectic grouping of instruments, musicians, dancers and captivated audience to suit. it is like a vortex of diversely colorful, vibrant and joyful energy. For such a bustling and lively city, it is a bold, yet accurate claim to make, that Ciutadella is in fact, where the city comes to life. CIBUS | jUne 2017 17
FEATURE
Whether you are coming to picnic, take part in The African drum circle activities, relax in nature, drink a mojito or get which can be found in the a massage, this is the place to be. On weekends, centre of the park; when the sun is out, it is also host to a plethora jamming out with an of happenings that appeal to the “1.6 million” eclectic grouping of local residents of Barcelona as well as the “32 instruments, musicians, million [annual] visitors” (The Guardian). dancers and captivated makes on the natural and social systems and to Events such as La Fira de la Terra draw a niche audience to suit. propose ways to conduct respectful, cooperative market which is broadening day by day as its solidarity.” (diadelaterra.org) Booths line the main message grows in popularity across the global market. passage way between these two Barcelona landmarks, “The focus is on the fight against climate change and hosting vendors from artisan crafts, craft beer, wine and cider showcases a wide range of environmentally friendly products” makers, organic and sustainably grown produce, products and (Barcelona Yellow). The people who orchestrate this annual event culinary goods, homemade beauty and fashion products; on Earth Day, draw hundreds of thousands of people to the area everything you can imagine, made with the consideration of the between Arc de Triumph and the end of Parc Ciutadella. symbiotic relationships and sustainable production. They are creating products for people who love the earth and care to “Fair for Earth Day - Earth Market is a meeting of organizations preserve and nurture it. “Earth Market promotes local production of all kinds to call to attention the attacks that modern society of goods and services produced with respect for people and natural systems, which are the basis for humans to have a decent life.” (diadelaterra.org) This is a popular topic in Barcelona, making this annual event, one of the most celebrated Summertime markets in the city. Since 2000, the Catalan capital has made many moves to implement sustainable practices in their way of life and regulation. Since the turn of the millenia, the city of Barcelona has passed a law stating that “all new or renovated buildings must, install solar panels” (Vagabondish). In this eco-friendly city, many of the residents and visitors use alternative modes of transportation walking, biking, skateboarding, public transportation. The city has made moves to encourage this as well as making these options as low-impact as possible; “The city even introduced electric trams in 2004 as another environmentally-friendly travel option. 18 CIBUS | jUne 2017
FEATURE
And to top it all off, there are 156km of bike lanes in the city, making it safe to take to Barcelona’s roads on two wheels.” These are just some examples of the city’s efforts to promote and facilitate sustainability. They also have installed “street lights run on timers and even contain smart technology that detects movements, illuminating accordingly [cutting the electrical usage by roughly one third]” (Vagabondish). La Fira de la Terra is a representation of the values of the city and the emerging global trend of environmental sensibility. At the event there are a wide variety of food trucks with gourmet cuisine, organically grown, locally sourced and sustainably produced. Aside from the delicious food trucks, there are also a fine selection of local craft beers, ciders and wine varieties for people to taste and purchase. The space between the Arc de Triumph and the end of the Parc Ciutadella is packed with excited participants, browsing, tasting and buying these goodies as well as enjoying the array of circus, musical and theatrical performances. Annually, this event takes place, here in the magical epicenter of culture of this internationally famed multicultural seaside metropolis. Barcelona is known for it’s foodie culture, as it should be; each street you walk down, you will find a quaint, cool, hip and trendy, well
designed hole in the wall restaurant, pop up or mixologist where you can lose time and space, delving your senses into wonder and pure satisfaction. Coming to Barcelona, the entirety of your trip can easily be designed around culinary delights alone. If you are curious and or passionate about sustainability, ecoawareness and supporting local businesses, people and crafts, check out La Fira de la Terra; take a walk in or spend an afternoon enjoying, the center of Barcelona culture and happenings, Parc Ciutadella.
Works Cited "22a FIRA PER EL DIA DE LA TERRA - MERCAT DE LA TERRA." Fira per La Terra. N.p., n.d. Web. 24 May 2017. "Barcelona â€." Vagabondish. N.p., 22 Feb. 2013. Web. 24 May 2017. Burgen, Stephen. "Barcelona Cracks down on Tourist Numbers with Accommodation Law. " The Guardian. Guardian News and Media, 27 Jan. 2017. Web. 24 May 2017. "Fira per La Terra - Earth Fair." Barcelona 2017 - What to Do in Barcelona Spain. N.p., n.d. Web. 24 May 2017. "Fira per La Terra 2017." (barcelona-metropolitan.com). N.p., 25 Apr. 2017. Web. 24 May 2017.
PROMO
INTRODUCING HEAT BEADS: YOUR GOT-TO BBQ PRODUCT
What are Heat Beads®? Heat Beads is the leading Australian charcoal brand. A superior barbecue fuel, custom-made to the specific needs of the barbecuing enthusiasts. Safe, non-toxic and fragrance-free. The high, reliable quality is owed to the fact that it has a collection of exclusive raw materials as its foundation – a mixture of natural hardwood charcoal and clean burning mineral carbon. The mineral carbon, known as char, would have undergone a process at high temperatures to remove the unstable matter, leaving a high purity carbon. This substance provides the long burn time that Heat Beads briquettes are known for. They also contain a binder, an oxidising agent and a special, signature ingredient. Each of these materials is naturally occurring, and has a very specific purpose.
Why use Heat Beads®? As a safe and long-burning fuel that’s smokeless, which gives you that real BBQ taste. But these are not the only reasons you should choose this great product. Choose Heat Beads because they: • Are the BBQ Briquettes that burn hotter for longer • Give you a high cooking temperature for over six hours • Offer better value for money.
Bonus reasons to choose Heat Beads… Delicious flavour – seal in the essences and juices of the meat, enhancing the flavour of the food. A healthy option – enjoy watching the excess fat running off the meat, falling into the bottom tray! Cook to perfection – enjoy thoroughly and evenly cooked char-grilled food thanks to high cooking temperature. Long shelf-life – stored in a cool, dry place, they have an indefinite shelf life. Easy to light – add a few firelighters to the Heat Beads BBQ briquettes, set alight, and you will have a glowing barbecue ready for cooking your favourite foods in around 30 minutes. Reusable – after cooking, any Heat Beads BBQ briquettes remaining in the barbecue, are reusable. Close the vents of the barbecue to cut off the air supply and the briquettes extinguish naturally. Variety of cooking – you can use Heat BeadsBBQ briquettes for roasts, desserts, gourmet vegetables, flatbreads and so much more! Better tasting than gas – enjoy food that quite literally melts in your mouth, with that unique smoky flavour that simply cannot be replicated. If you want that real BBQ taste, be sure to choose Heat Beads BBQ Briquettes. With a product that delivers high and constant heat where and when you need it, you now can BBQ with confidence!
FEATURE
M
edient: r g
Soy Sauce appi
I ng the
n
WORDS BY
22 CIBUS | jUne 2017
jamie iain genovese
FEATURE
reservatives are important; to food, to economy, to the wellbeing of a people. We learned this much in our February issue’s segment of Mapping the Ingredient. Soy sauce was born out of such a need, and was used as such. It started out as jiang in China, a kind of fore-father to the soy sauce we know today. At some point in the 13th century, about 1254 A.D., a Buddhist monk returned to mainland japan with knowledge of a king of miso paste used to preserve summer vegetables. And so, it was to be that in Yuasa of the Wakayama prefecture, with its natural and clear spring water, that the earliest iteration of this soy sauce was produced. This soy sauce was made with a fermentation process that is still used today in Yuasa and other parts of Asia. Of course, there has since been the development of a chemicallymanufactured soy sauce which is the variant you normally get in little take-away sachets at restaurants, but this is a relatively recent development that has led to a myriad of soy sauce choices. In fact, most soy-snobs might insist this is a ‘fake’ soy sauce, much like we can have fake olive oil, that uses only soy extracts more than an actual fermentation process. If authenticity matters to you, in olives and soy, then you’d normally want to look for the ‘naturally brewed’ bottle of soy sauce. Of course, you might find some that are blended with the chemical soy sauce. Does that sound strange? Think of it like whiskey; there’s the single malts, the scotches, the pure malts, the blended malts, and even offshoots like bourbon. And yes, there are soy sauce sommeliers, too. It can be largely similar, but the use of varying ingredients, purities, processes, and countries of origin lead to different tastes and ‘breeds’ of soy sauce. Korea probably has the earliest account of using soy sauce (ganjang) and other soy-based products, back in the third century, as documented in the Samguk Sagi. Of course, I’ve never read it, so do check it out for yourselves if you’d like. Since then we’ve seen Chinese jiang¸ Filipino toyò, Vietnamese xì dȁu, Thai Sii-íu kăao, Malaysian and Singaporean kicap and kecap and their variants (and yes, it does sound like ‘ketchup’. The word could have come from Malay or Chinese, and, fun fact, originally contained more fish products than tomatoes). japan, however, seems to be what most of us think of when we think ‘soy sauce’, what with its use in the sushi restaurants that have opened in Malta and Gozo over the past decade or so. Whether this is a blemish on our cultural awareness, a successful marketing ploy from japanese companies, or just
happenstance, it is not the kind of thing I can talk about with any authority, nor much interest. What I can do is parrot the process used in the Yuasa factories, which still handmake soy sauce to this day, as I heard it described to me by filmmaker Mile nagaoka (who, as it were, strikes me as a japanese version of our own james Vernon). That Buddhist monk we mentioned earlier had started up the production of miso paste in Yuasa, and soy sauce is the liquid that’s collected in the production of miso. Its main ingredients are the eponymous soy bean, wheat, salt, and water. These four pillars are what are absolutely necessary for this kind of soy sauce. just like sake and rice vinegar, the soy sauce fermentation process is started off with koji, which is this fungus kind-of-thing that’s used in China and japan to kickstart the whole thing. • The soy beans are steamed and mixed with roasted wheat in the koji mold. • The Mixture is stored for 4 days so that the koji can break down the sugars in the grain, which allows fermentation to happen. • The Koji base is then mixed with salt and water in very large wooden barrels. This marks the beginning of the fermentation process which can last anywhere between eighteen months and three-and-a-half years. This makes a blackish, squishy substance that must be routinely mashed by hand. • After eighteen months or more that same mash is poured into cloth bags and pressed to collect the liquid. This is what produces ‘nama’ (raw; unpasteurised) soy sauce. • nama soy sauce is then heated in some kind of a traditional iron pot over a fire of, and this was specified, red pine logs for half a day. The heat causes a scum to rise to the surface, which is then removed by hand with little passatur like tools. The resulting soy sauce is then bottled and shipped. Sold for about €4 or €5 for 200ml, according to my brief browsing of a few retail sites and amazon.co.jp. What with all the hoo-ha on natural products in recent times, this could be useful to anyone interested in any cooking that needs soy sauce. After all, understanding where food comes from is a big part of food today that shouldn’t be ignored, and that we wouldn’t like to ignore either.
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INGREDIENT
r e b u a t i s or i
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n a l p g g e
INGREDIENT
e n i re g
? t n a
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FEATURE
our
eturning from South Africa and the Seychelles some years ago, I called up a friend who owned various farmhouses in Gozo – cue pine furniture and plastic-covered sofas. “I will send you some photos of what I have seen but you really need to experience this level of service, this simple, chic beauty. You have those farmhouses which you can turn into high-end small villas. It’s not complicated. In these areas I’ve seen, with good management, they’re charging an average $1,000 dollars a night. It’s a very good market. If you want high-end tourists, this is the way to go.” He was appalled. Used to scrimping and scrounging and supplying guests with pillows that guarantee a terrible night’s sleep, he told me that his guests complained that he charged €100 a night. He simply did not get ‘it’: if you want quality, you need to charge the high price. There is no cheap version. And the price makes your customer. Cecilia Diaz Chuit and Martin Rigal got it. When I checked into the astoundingly beautiful Cavas Wine Lodge, number one hotel in Argentina and number 17 in the world according to Travel & Leisure Magazine, it was night and I did not get the full whoosh of the driving in, the in-your-face beauty of the vineyards, the never-ending bushes of roses, rosemary and lavender. But they had sent their driver, as a favour, rather than the official car, which would have set me back a couple of hundred dollars. He rolled up the airport driveway in a white pickup. I sat next to 26 CIBUS | jUne 2017
man in
MENDOZA the driver, Marcos, who after a few kilometres, proudly told me he was writing a book. A white pickup-driving author with ambitions: you could only make it up in Argentina. Cecilia and Martin’s attitude to life and the world is diametrically opposite to my friend from Gozo. In 2011, they were hit terribly hard — psychologically and financially — by the shocking devaluation. Back then, they had gone to sleep with the peso pegged to the dollar at one to one and woke up to find they had lost half their money. And they couldn’t even withdraw their savings. So, they took their backgrounds in hotels, marketing and agriculture and headed west to invest. Mendoza then was a wine toddler. Malbec was a weird, cheap grape only used as a filler wine to produce thousands of cheap bottles. They bought some land and started from scratch, building the main house, the vineyard rooms, the casitas. Suspecting they would be asked for bribes, they were surprised, in a very good way, that the local government was not only not corrupt or populist, but actually supportive. The area would be a desert if it weren’t for an ingenious drip irrigation system that brings fresh water from the Andes
FEATURE
Cavas is a Relais & Chateaux, a true mark of quality in a world full of useless ‘opinions’, but it is also very much Cecilia. I could feel her imprint in all the design, thick linen sofas in dark browns topped with bright orange silk cushions. The antique chairs, the piano, the fireplaces in all the casitas, one inside, and a woodburning stove outside in the panoramic roof from where you can see the entire Andes range. mountains opposite the property and whets the thirst of the grapes, the luscious plums and figs, the huge selection of fruits and vegetables painting everything green. They put the main building and the casitas facing the mountains, and that is what you get every time, all the time: the lush, magical green all around. The mountains, in Chile and an hour away by car, seem to border the property, like stocky guards wearing white caps. The snow on the highest mountains never melts.
The mountains, in Chile and an hour away by car, seem to border the property, like stocky guards wearing white caps
The detail inside the property is pure chic South African. The showers hewn out of rough walls, the towels copious so that you never have to ask for more, antique baths, huge beds, set up with various layers so that if you are a quilt person, a sheet person or a light blanket person, it’s all there ready for you. You don’t have to ask for a suite, because all the casitas are. They all come with little plunge pools and huge loungers. And if you feel like grapes, all you need to do is reach out and pick the succulent little dark fruits off the vines yourself.
You feel her in the choice of fruits for breakfast, in the vintage clothing decorating the entrance, the Moroccan-feel low armless sofas in bright silky stripes in the lobby, in the black and white décor near the pool, where the towels are lilac and the water is supplied by a gargling chorus of metal frogs. And at night, when I went to bed, somebody had put a hot water bottle under the blanket. “The staff were so resistant to that one,” Martin laughed when I mentioned the hot water bottle at breakfast. “But I knew it would work. And now they are so proud of it.”
Someone in charge of irrigating a desert — the vineyards are his job — would find a few hot-water bottles placed sweetly in guest beds less of a logistical challenge — Martin is the engineer of Cavas, the behind-the-scenes guy that makes it happen. The staff are all sweet and friendly. This has become extremely difficult to find in the world of modern hostelry where all, even in the highest standard hotels, follow the instruction book, but hardly ever know why they are doing it. CIBUS | jUne 2017 27
FEATURE
They managed to get me tables in the most difficult-to-find restaurants and were as excited as me to get those tables. And the wines, of course, are beyond wonderful. The welcome glass of Malbec after less than plush flights was a beautiful introduction. And the champagne is cheap — Chandon is actually the Moët & Chandon vineyard and sells for $18, hotel prices. That’s a bottle, not a glass. The most outstanding restaurant in Mendoza has to be Azafran where Chef Pablo Ranea creates astounding dishes and a fabulous tasting menu full of deep flavours and wild combinations. Still persistent in my mind is the sweetcorn stew, a bright yellow chowder perfect for a chilly night, the ambiance and the gorgeous wine room. The atmosphere is totally unpretentious but the food is worthy of the best 50 San Pellegrino list. Chef’s Table featured another local chef, Francis Mallman, but international travellers are tired of shavings and experiments, making Azafran perfect. For food and wine lovers Argentina is still weirdly unexplored by the international, European traveller: it seems to have been discovered mostly by neighbouring Brazilians and North Americans. The beef is as good as promised, the wines packed
with fruit and flavour, and if you are lucky enough to stay at Cavas, your stay will be truly memorable. No matter how much wine you drink.
How to get tHere www.cavaswinelodge.com www.azafranresto.com http://www.xoprivate.com/destination-specialists/mai10/ I flew with Lufthansa: connections are very easy through Frankfurt. The Malta-Frankfurt service is very poor, to the point that business passengers were asking if the food should be heated and if it were a mistake, but the Frankfurt-Buenos Aires uses a Boeing 747-8 which is a double decker with business class only upstairs. This means no bored children or screaming babies, making it a better option than first. Food and drink selection is excellent quality but configuration is still in x2s which means you have to jump over your neighbour to go to the bathroom. Leg space is slightly cramped (for business) as you have to put your feet inside the storage box under the TV to lay out flat. Service is wonderful with middle-aged, constantly smiling people, truly happy to be doing their job, women, rather than the polished glossy 20 somethings of the MiddleEastern airlines. Transport in Argentina is ridiculously awful and hopelessly overpriced. You are looking at a $60-80 cost from, say, Cavas to Mendoza centre, which takes you around 30 minutes. In other words, as much as your meal will cost, which is very cheeky considering what goes into producing that kind of food and service.
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FEATURE
30 CIBUS | jUne 2017
ILLUSTRATION BY
jamie iain genovese
confessions & other secrets
chef bolton tells
FEATURE
People in the service industry are generally voiceless. in the tradition of Down and Out in Paris and London, we’d like to change that. so, i asked a chefly acquaintance for a few things that seem to bug the daylights out of them: • When clients try to sabotage food. it happens, but rarely. When they try to get free food, complain for no reason, even when there’s literally nothing wrong with it. Like, they finish it and then complain. • i’ve worked in fancy restaurants in malta; posh, fine dining; they go in expecting big portions and expecting to eat a lot and they need to know it’s not casual dining with big portions and stuff. i think that’s why restaurants in malta are scared to go beyond that standard, because there’s a standard which most maltese restaurateurs follow, which is pizza, pasta and big servings.
Alright, what’s good? Compliments, the satisfaction of hearing that the food is good. That’s the ultimate goal, we’re not there to just earn money, we’re there for satisfaction too. We sacrifice our time, thirteen hours of our day, and one compliment from a client can make it. it’s one of the best and easiest things they can do. Then there’s tips — but that’s just a bonus. The satisfaction of hearing our food is good…that’s like our fuel. not all people will relate to this one, it’s mostly for the student chefs, and chefs who underwent an apprenticeship or something. so, basically, there’s always a blooper moment when there’s a new guy or a new chef. Because usually a new guy will ask questions and the chefs will ask the new guy to get stuff from the walk-in fridge or something. once i was sent to go get spring onions, and i didn’t know what they looked like. i wanted to impress the chef and say ‘Yes! i’ll go get you those spring onions!’but i got him the fennel…. This always happens with new guys. This other guy i know went to go get a cucumber, and came back with a zucchini. The kitchen staff will laugh at you, you’d be super humiliated, but it happens.
Any misconceptions? in the kitchen that i work with, there’s this idea that if you’re going to be in charge you’re going to be a toxic chef and you’ll run a toxic kitchen. But that should not always be the case, that’s old school. The new kitchens nowadays are about cooperation and teamwork. not everyone is a gordon Ramsey in the kitchen, not all chefs act like they know everything. Part of the new age of the culinary world have top chefs that are willing to learn and willing to work with their team and help their team. You won’t get a cooperative team or brigade if you’re that kind of person.
Any nice stories in the kitchen? are there nice stories in the kitchen? nicest thing you can get is when the team is actually working together, or kitchen bloopers where everyone has a laugh. although: if you’re in a toxic kitchen, when those bloopers happen it won’t be a blooper — you’ll just get chewed out. CIBUS | jUne 2017 31
RECIPE
IN SEARCH OF WORDS BY
“a
nd as soon as i had recognized the taste of the piece of madeleine soaked in her decoction of lime-blossom which my aunt used to give me (although i did not yet know and must long postpone the discovery of why this memory made me so happy) immediately the old grey house upon the street, where her room was, rose up like a stage set to attach itself to the little pavilion opening on to the garden which had been built out behind it for my parents (the isolated segment which until that moment had been all that i could see); and with the house the town, from morning to night and in all weathers, the square where i used to be sent before lunch, the streets along which i used to run errands, the country roads we took when it was fine” (À la recherche du temps perdu).”
marcel Proust’s In Search of Lost Time and his passage observing madeleines into what became known as a ‘Proustian moment’ is one of the more important moments in modern literature. 1.2 million words, some of them had to be important, right? But it’s a book about a man that wants to stop wasting time and enjoy life, to find meaning. Without spoiling much, the madeleines prove indispensable. Let’s try them. 32 CIBUS | jUne 2017
jamie iain genovese
lost time
RECIPE
AND TASTY MADELEINES INGREDIENTS
8 tbsp (1 stick) unsalted butter
2 tbsp butter for greasing the pan, if desired 1 cup all-purpose f lour 2/3 cup granulated sugar Pinch of salt 2 large eggs 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice 1 tbsp/1 lemon’s zest Powdered/icing sugar (optional)
MAKING THE MADELEINES METHOD Melt and brown butter in a small saucepan in low or medium heat. Watch as a bubbly broth seems to froth in the pan, and a wonderful aroma prances about the air. Once this deepens in colour, to hues of gold and brown, you can remove the saucepan. This is a good chance to take some butter and set it aside in case you need to butter a madeleine tray. In some kind of bowl, whisk the three white things (salt, f lour, sugar) in there together. In another bowl, throw in the eggs, lemon zest, lemon juice, and splashes of vanilla, and then whisk until frothy and lovely. Pour this into the white bowl with white things and then mix until they’re, well, mixed. Take those eight tablespoons of hot butter and dole them into the mixture and fold it in like you’re stirring a risotto. Once it’s mixed, you may stop. Now, chill this batter for about an hour, or even a day before you’d like to finish them. This is also when you can grease the pan and chuck that into the freezer, too. To actually bake the madeleines, preheat the oven to 350°F, and get your now chilly ingredients out of the freezer. Now, you can start adding batter to the shells in the madeleine tray, but don’t overfill or even fill. These things need to rise, so don’t overdo it. Bake this tray for about nine minutes, rotate the pan, then bake for another few (three to five) minutes. Check them, are the edges brown, is the middle spongy? Yes? Then they’re done. No? Then they aren’t. Now you can gently remove them from the tray and powder the shells here with the powdered sugar. And for Pete’s sake, enjoy them on the day you make them. .
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FEATURE
34 CIBUS | JUNE 2017
A PERSON WITH AN
EXTRA PAIR OF HANDS WORDS BY
FEATURE
Mantas sakas stockus
reeting people; taking orders; preparing drinks, food; mixing ingredients; cooking; ensuring that everything comes out simultaneously; serving; restocking and replenishing the bar, kitchen inventory and supplies; issuing checks; complying with all beverage, nutrition, sanitation regulations and safety standards; collecting payments; nurturing an excellent guest experience. Work for more than one person, but… on the corner of strait street and st. Lucia’s street in Valletta there is a place. In it you will find Luca, the owner of the place. He is a person with a big smile that, through a thick beard, shines stronger than the sun on a clear day. From early morning until late at night it stays with him. It never goes down. Luca is doing everything on his own. Perfectly. “I did not choose catering. catering chose me. that is how it happened. at the beginning, when you are a teenager, there aren’t so many options. You have to start somewhere. What do you do? My beginning was behind a bar. then, after some time, people started to call me, ask for me. one morning I woke up and said to myself that I am good at what I am doing. It was a very practical, not theoretical decision,” he says. sitting next to his bar Wild Honey, you get a feeling that he is right. all his movements look so natural, effortless, and free. It seems that he does not even need to look. He can do it blindly. the space and the air outside the bar are under Luca’s skin. In a glimpse, he can tell you what is happening at each table: ‘those two girls are finishing their drinks… a person is waiting for salads. a group of people ordered five different types of beer and four meals. two tables want to pay…’ he says, as he tots up a few bills with an old-fashioned calculator. ‘I like old stuff,’ he adds with a laugh.
spontaneity plays a role in his speech and life, but at work it is all about being well-prepared. “not ready? How can you manage?” asks Luca. “If I do not have everything ready by the time I have to start (pause), I will be in panic mode. It would take a lot of time to prepare food and drinks for customers. It is not a good thing to be unprepared when you are working in the bar. the customer is number one in what I am doing.” a satisfied customer is a priority, and to achieve it, there is no space for a mistake. Placement plays a crucial part. Everything has to have a place. “I am a bit obsessed with it,” chuckles Luca. sauces, spices, vegetables, fruits, and beverages are stored according to how they are needed. all space is used. Every corner has its purpose. Like in theatrical scene, in the bar everything is thought out. Little details can reveal more and more about the owner of the place. the best spot: an old-green-soft chair. a favourite tea made of jasmine and served with a dash of cognac, colours: green and orange, vintage items, paintings on the walls, and a golden toilet. He grew up together with the place, having bad and good times. Four years brought various kinds of ‘scripts’ to Luca. one of the toughest ‘conditions’ is when you have to deal with ‘unpleasant’ customers. an unavoidable but necessary part of catering. But even for them, Luca has an antidote. “I can understand people. I have a feeling for it. Dealing with ignorant people you have to find the best way how to treat them. Find a way inside a customer’s heart and make it soft.” CIBUS | JUNE 2017 35
FEATURE
to retain lost energy and take positivity, Luca always turns to nature. ‘the most important thing for me is nature. I work at Valletta and live in Floriana. there is a small park between them. I like to go through it. touch the ground, palms. sometimes, when I have more time, I lie down on a bench and look at the light blue sky. You can choose street or park. I always choose park. Being in nature I feel free. I do not need anything else. In the morning, when I can, I buy a new plant and bring it to work. I like to touch the soil.” suddenly, you start to notice small plants around the place: you can find one just in front of an entrance seeded inside an old shoe; fresh Basil is looking from a table in the kitchen; young cactus hides behind an old ventilator dating back to the 1930s. “no planning,” adds Luca looking at it. “sometimes I do plan. the main point is that I do not make appointments. Even to my friends. You know...this is my way. I do not like appointments. I do not want this in my personal time. I have to follow the clock at work.” this is the main thing, separating work and home. Everything else, according to him, seems to flow together as one. 36 CIBUS | JUNE 2017
“Yes, it is exactly the same. I am at the bar, as I am at home. almost…” smiles Luca. “although working in catering you are, all the time, on a stage. In your personal life, you can remove a mask and be sad if you want to,” disclose a small part of life behind a curtain. on the stage he is a true, solo actor. “I like things to be done in my way. Even if I teach someone perfectly, I will redo what he has done. I cannot do anything about it.” at the end of the day, few workers from a bar next to Luca’s place start to close. they take chairs and tables inside, turn off lights, and, finally, lock the main door. But a person with a light brown apron is still in action. He comes and goes, comes and goes: chats with customers, serves, pours drinks, prepares meals, and finds time to add an extra touch to a finished dish. “the expression of a customer! From it I can tell if he or she liked my drink, my food, my service. the feeling of people… this is the main thing keeping me here. I always, secretly, look at the faces of my customers, their first bite. It makes me shiver.”
Strand Palace MeatS ltd.
CHICKEN AND SUNDRIED TOMATO ROULADE INGREDIENTS THE MEAT 1 chicken breast, approx 250g 3 slices of parma ham 50g cream cheese 30g sundried tomatoes Rosemary THE SAUCE 200ml red wine, 100g sugar THE GARNISH Baby carrots, water cress, mushroom
METHOD Butterf ly the chicken breast, doubling the surface area without cutting across. Flatten using a meat mallet. Lay cling film facing you, lay the slices of parma ham on the cling film next to each other vertically with a slight bit of overlap. Place the chicken on the parma ham as symmetrically as possible. Chop the sundried tomatoes and mix thoroughly with the rosemary and cream cheese. Using a piping bag with a 1cm wide hole, pipe the mixture across the chicken breast horizontally and season the meat. Without applying too much pressure so the cream cheese doesn’t come out the sides, roll and wrap the breast around the stuffing using the cling film as support a few times. Once rolled tightly, make knots on both ends using the cling film and trim the excess. Place in boiling water for about 23 minutes, ensuring that the meat is above 70% using a probe thermometer. For the red wine reduction, place ingredients in a small pan and allow to simmer on low heat, whisking frequently, until it reaches a slightly thick consistency. Allow to cool slightly, remove from cling film, and place whole on a hot pan with some oil to give the roulade some colour. Allow to rest for 5 minutes, slice into 4-5 pieces, plate, and garnish accordingly. Melvin Bonello, executive head chef of Fornelli, has always been passionate about food. Over the last 13 years, he has been training with some of the best chefs on the island, and has now gathered enough experience to lead his own kitchen, which he does with a very humble and cheerful attitude.
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FEATURE
PREPARING FOR THE
Marital Dinner ishman. l g n E n a s ’ He business in Working in Chelsea fan. Malta. A
I’m 24. Working in music studios in London. A fiancée.
It’s crazy. It’s fun. It’s beautiful. We’re planning our April 2018 wedding. We’re in a long-distance relationship
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FEATURE
WORDS BY
Bettina Cassar
hen i first got a job as a music technician in the recording studios at Westminster University in London, it was bittersweet knowing i’d have to be away from my (ironically english) fiancé, who’s in love with Malta (who can blame him?) and plan our wedding from afar. We decided i’d visit every six weeks since my job allowed me to and that way keep our relationship alive and healthy whilst not shrugging all wedding duties onto my poor mother’s shoulders. today is another one of those all-too familiar travel Mondays. after a weekend shift i take a bus, a coach and then a flight to come home for a week. With some wedding appointments, a couple of meetings and many friendly catch-ups scheduled, i’m feeling fancy and i can hardly wait to get onto the plane. returning home to my mother’s slow-cooked, high-carb, baconinfused food. My bedroom’s stone-cold walls feel inspiring again. My aged upright piano in the living room incessantly calls my name. the stray cats linger outside by my car providing a warm sort of welcome. as a family who loves food, we begin planning the week’s menu from days before each visit, making sure we fit in as many traditional favourites as we can — from lasagne to lampuki pie to twistees, pastizzi and Kinnie. Our cupboards suddenly overflow with galletti of every flavour, shape and size, and a bigilla starter becomes a staple of every meal. i have my very own mental “tourist to-do List” for this trip. Coffee outside the church. ice cream by the sea. Beer in the sun. a picnic in a previously undiscovered field. afternoon tea with my grandma and her baked goods. even the familiar sounds of church bells, traffic and loud Maltese voices seem to glow a different colour when my holiday eyes are on. two of my lifelong dreams have come together in a strange way, forcing me to become an expert at this balancing act; marrying the guy i’ve loved for years, working abroad around highly motivating professionals, loving the Maltese lifestyle, and being fascinated by the endless opportunities offered in a city. it’s sort of like planning a wedding, but recognising a lifelong marriage is what we should be investing in. as a bride-to-be, i don’t have a mysterious diet plan and i don’t know of any secret power foods or super miraculous workouts which involve minimum effort and maximum calorie burn. But i am exploring the balance between healthy eating, healthy thinking and healthy being which will prepare me not only for the big day but beyond.
i’ve been prepping myself physically — bootcamp classes at the gym before work a few times a week (to my fiancé’s delight). Friendly instructors and work out companions help keep me motivated (i have mastered squatting which should help with peeing in a wedding dress, right?). i’ve also made a healthy snacking plan for the day and i do my utmost to stick to that plan — my body is not happy going longer than 2-3 hours without food. Homemade popcorn, celery and Greek yogurt. i’ve been prepping myself emotionally — rest days are important to me. sleep is sacred (them eight hours a night, baby). if i have to work on a sunday i’ll make sure i simply rest for one other day in the week. reading, walking around the city, writing in a pretty park, spending time song-writing just for myself without productivity in mind. Mentally changing things up — reading about something completely unrelated to my area of work. it’s refreshing. it’s necessary. i’ve been prepping myself spiritually — taking care of my soul by reflecting daily, or sitting in a quiet church and talking to God or allowing time for solitude where i let my brain wander free. CIBUS | jUne 2017 39
FEATURE
i’ve been prepping myself emotionally — being kind to myself and forgiving myself as easily as i’d forgive others. not getting caught up in a cycle of guilt if i haven’t been healthy or productive. asking for help when i need it, be it at work, with wedding planning or in general daily life tasks (who knew cutting an unripe avocado stops the rest of it from ripening). #aacadobeginner My motivation for all this preparation is my desire to be the best version of myself. to give my fiancé the best of me as a selfless gift on our wedding day and knowing his unconditional love, patience, and honesty will be there throughout our married life. i desire to look back at my life as an old woman and be proud of the decisions i made, to like the person i became. to see that i used my life for the service and good of others. and it’s in slowing down that i have been able to see beauty, to see the needs of others, to enjoy the process even when it takes longer than i’d like it to. this has not been an easy life-lesson for a twentysomething-year old who’s naturally inclined to timetabling every hour of my week. When the long-distance life gets tough i sometimes turn to food. after a long stressful day, i’m sacrifices and the not-so-pretty bits too. But there’s still tempted to indulge in cheap a lot to look forward to. Life goes beyond the wedding biscuits or sugary drinks. But here’s day. it goes beyond marriage too. i’m preparing myself what i’ve been learning. Food is for eternity. i’m considering and thinking about the good. it’s beautiful — the way it Food is good. It’s beautiful — legacy i’m going to leave behind when i’m gone. and brings people together, the way it the way it brings people i believe as a creative it is my duty to find beauty expresses creativity, the way it together, the way it expresses everywhere and then expose it and share it with those nourishes our bodies and allows us creativity, the way it nourishes around me. to pamper one another. But when our bodies and allows us to we make food our source of pamper one another. as a bride to be i’m on the hunt for beauty for our comfort or joy we’re missing the wedding day in colourful flowers, in gorgeous dresses point. We’ll never find fulfilment and glamorous venues. Perhaps though, there’s a and contentment in food. inhaling lasting beauty inside all of us that matters more. Perhaps it is the a bag of salted crisps when i’m feeling lonely only makes me feel little acts of selflessness that will make our marriage beautiful and worse afterwards. indulging in chocolates when i’m disappointed our honesty that will shine brightest. Perhaps savouring the little does nothing for my soul. so, i’ve been training myself to turn to things will make us better people. other things in these moments. i can phone a friend. i can turn to prayer. i can find companionship in music, in reading and in Ftajjar infront of a beautiful sunset. the smell of fresh pastries writing. coming out of an oven. the twenty chicken-nugget DVD nights. Where will i find beauty in my marriage? Hopefully in i sometimes catch myself day-dreaming about married life. i hear breakfast in bed. you, i hear you – it’s not all rosy! i’m ready for the struggles, the 40 CIBUS | jUne 2017
B U Y F A F E D T S L ’ U R E N H CH TA
GARDENS
An Array of Antipasti Cured Meats, Fish Carpaccio & Cheese Board Selection of Fresh Salads Variety of Canapés Sushi ¥’µ
Potato, Leek & Ginger Soup ¥’µ
Penne with fresh Swordfish, Mint, Capers & Tomato Baked Rice with Chicken & Chorizo ¥’µ
Salmon En Croute Traditional Fried Rabbit Chicken Drumsticks topped with Rosemary Crust Beef Olives cooked in a Tomato Salsa Ftira Ghawdxija Gammon with a Honey & Mustard dressing Fresh Seasonal Vegetables & Potatoes ¥’µ
Tantalizing Treats & Sweets ¥’µ
Free Flowing Wine & Water
€35.00 per person
F
MELITA GARDENS (DIRECTLY NEXT DOOR TO SAN ANTON) TRIQ IDMEJDA, BALZAN | PHONE: 9988 7255 / 9940 8713 WE CATER FOR ALL TYPES OF PRIVATE FUNCTIONS RANGE OF MENUS AND VENUES FOR GROUPS OF ALL SIZES OUTDOOR PRIVATE VENUES & PRIVATE ROOMS CENTRAL LOCATION WITH HASSLE FREE PARKING
FEATURE
Table Foregone H
osting guests to a restaurant meal is akin to a journey into the unexpected. When the guests are not Maltese, the matter becomes even more dicey. And even more of a roll of dice, is when it comes to recommending a restaurant to them. Not that these islands fall short in quantity and choice. Far from it. But the level of service and food quality does tend to fluctuate even more than the stock market here. So, while the island’s inhabitants are more or less used to dealing with off days, convinced that restaurateurs and serving staff suffer from an industrial version of PMS, and accepting it as a fact of life and mother nature, those who are just passing by might not yet have been made aware of this phenomenon. It was therefore with some trepidation that, as I was taking a group of friends who were on their first visit to Malta on a walkabout of some of the more popular spots, I followed them into a restaurant we chanced upon. They were lured in by the charming exterior, appealing interior, and the sheer need to get away from my ridiculously inept guiding skills, I imagine. They exclaimed in marvel at the surroundings, and sighed, already drooling, at the menu. I braced myself for the inevitable apologies that I felt sure I would soon have to make. And I was holding my breath. Because the last time I had hosted some visiting dignitaries to this very same place, the service had been appalling, and the owner himself behaved in a way that was embarrassing to the point of no return. Literally. For I had vowed never to the return and in fact I didn’t. I hadn’t set foot in this renowned restaurant until I hesitantly followed my guests down the steps on this occasion. And was I glad I did.
The (Maltese, if you’re wondering) staff were evidently trained at the Institution that had been set up for this purpose. From their not overly effusive welcome to the down played but nonetheless constant politeness, the service was spot on. They knew when to appear, were accommodating with air conditioning — that bane of Maltese interiors which always seems to overchill — they knew not to hover, not even when I was sure we had outstayed our welcome at the by now empty restaurant, yet appeared as soon as they sensed they were needed, and amended orders without a hint of a grimace. The menu was creative, the suggestions forthcoming when requested and no request seemed too much. I left on a cloud that was only in part buoyed up by the excellent Maltese wine I had chosen for my guests. The rest was elation at an evening well spent and a hosting exercise that went completely without a hitch.
Yet that elation was also due to the fact that so many other times my experience has been the opposite. And it was almost as though I couldn’t believe my stroke of luck; afraid to repeat the experience, for fear I would jinx it. Such is the trepidation with which I tread in these circumstances. The stories I can relate... There was that one time I hosted a large number of delegates, choosing the perfect set menu for them only to find, to my horror, on entering the restaurant, that the price had been printed at the bottom of the menu, a copy of which had been helpfully left at each seating. Another time I gently prodded the restaurateur to explain what was on the menu, only to have him reply to me, and me alone, in Maltese, when I knew perfectly well what was on it having carefully selected the items myself. CIBUS | jUne 2017 43
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“What do you want me to do, grab a microphone and give them a lecture on the food?” came the snarled retort when I gestured silently towards the delegates by way of hinting that he should be addressing them and not me. Thankfully he spat out the words in Maltese, though I’m pretty sure they picked up on the mutual annoyance that iced over the proceedings in an instant. But the worst was when, after a rather strong whiff and an equally more pungent bite, I discreetly told the waiter that the fish was off, and I couldn’t eat it. Another waiter returned a while later — quite a while later — to tell me “The chef looked at it and said, no, ta, it is fine...”. I kid you not. My friend took out the notebook he carries around and in which he writes down names of places to visit, and carefully crossed off this restaurant. I can hardly recommend this to my friends when they are over from abroad, he concluded. Having had to pay for a dish I couldn’t eat, I couldn’t agree more. And then there was that gem of a place, where the diplomat doing the hosting was interrupted mid-toast, glass raised, to be told what are “The specials on the menu today please”. If that wasn’t enough, each time this diplomat was in the middle of some intense point of conversation, the chef patron’s wife would appear, jack-in-thebox fashion, to ask if “everything was okay, please”. Not to mention the fact that when taking the orders from the host, they insisted on knowing who was having what, making a huge show of getting the orders right and prolonging the process by at least twice the time it should have taken. With a large table this proved to be rather vexing and I could see the host’s efforts to bite back the annoyance and make light of the matter. And yet, in an amazing feat of accomplishment, they still brought the wrong orders to the table. Incredible. It does take a special skill, does it not? And call me finicky, but overly loud staff could really be avoided if the background music were just that or, better still, eliminated altogether. I suspect that these places only keep the 44 CIBUS | jUne 2017
music going to drown their clatter and chatter. And, of course, to pointedly switch off when they think you should be tucked up in bed now, thank you and good bye. At least in the restaurant mentioned at the start, they waited until we had reached the door to turn it off. Almost there, chaps, next time please take a few seconds longer until we are actually out the door and it closes behind us, there you go. The devil is in the detail. And what a devil. Hissing to your fellow waiter “Ladies first, ladies first!” as he is about to plonk the dish in front of the male diner is well meaning, I’m sure. But most diners do understand English, unless it has escaped your notice. Saying it in Maltese might at least have spared your employer the embarrassment at having been found out that untrained staff are the norm at this establishment. Telling him before he actually ambled out of the kitchen with the dish would have been even better. Finicky? Maybe. But I also know that most of these things are taken as a given in establishments of repute and, in some cases, even those which are slightly more casual. That here they appear only on a lucky draw of the dice does make for a more haphazard arrangement and hit-and-miss level of service. It is a pity indeed. For it is these little things that make for a better experience, and the lack of them that always makes me falter when visitors ask me to recommend a really good restaurant. I bite back the retort. “That depends. How lucky are you feeling today?” And cautiously ask instead, “Would you rather go for a more relaxed experience, perhaps...?”
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FEATURE
every story has to start WORDS BY
Danny Coleiro
somewhere
hen i was seven years old, there was a chilli pepper on the kitchen counter one morning, so i picked it up and put it in my mouth. My mother gave me an incredulous look and said “er...” - which, now that i think of it, doesn’t strike me as being particularly helpful - while my father pointed out that “it’s really hot and you’re going to burn your mouth” - a slightly more useful piece of advice which would have been fantastic had the tone of his delivery not been two parts ‘amused’ with a dash of ‘curious’ thrown in. in any case, i wasn’t listening. i gave the two of them a ‘yeah, whatever’ look, and bit down on the chilli like i’d been holding a grudge against it since birth. and i did so because i was convinced that it was made of plastic.
plastic, and i wanted them to know that i knew it was made of plastic and that they were fooling no one. Hence the ‘yeah, whatever’ look as i bit into it. Ha ha ha.
it wasn’t made of plastic - a fun fact that i discovered almost immediately. i won’t go into detail, but if you remember the facemelting scene at the end of Indiana Jones and the Raiders of the Lost Ark when they open the box and let the insides out... well, yeah... something a bit like that. let’s just say that it wasn’t the ideal introduction to the Scoville Scale, and chilli and i stomped off in different directions and refused to speak to each other. Fast forward again to thirty-seven years later, and here we are today. Three decades and seven is plenty of time to forgive past wrongdoings, and now that i’ve scaled Scoville in a more timely manner, i find it difficult to cook anything without adding at least a little bit of chilli to it. Chopped, flaked, powdered, red, green or sweet... the more the merrier, the hotter the better. and such is the versatility, and so wide the variety, of chillies, that it can go pretty much everywhere.
all stories have to start somewhere, and i’ve just reread what i wrote above and realised that perhaps this one shouldn’t have started there. you may now I find it difficult to be under the impression that i enjoy eating plastic, cook anything without which i really don’t. no, this story should have adding at least a little actually started about a week earlier, when my dad bit of chilli to it. came home one evening with a chocolate bar that wasn’t. it looked real, but it was made of plastic, and the sole reason for its existence was so that But there is one place where it truly belongs, and people who find this kind of thing hilarious that place is somewhere in the middle of a really, really good curry. namely, my dad - can offer it to people who fall for this kind of thing - namely, me - and laugh at them. i suppose i should have and all stories need to start somewhere, and maybe... now that i queried why it wasn’t in a wrapper, or, at the very least, wondered think of it... maybe this one should have started here. it didn’t, but why i wasn’t being forced to share it with my younger brother, it’s definitely where it’s going... as was usually the case when there was only one of something that we both wanted, but... well... you don’t question chocolate and i love curry. i could eat it every week, and often do. My wife likes potentially ruin a good thing. So, long story short, i bit into it, curry too, in that she’ll eat it but not necessarily go bonkers for it, pulled a face, and got laughed at. and the kids are the equivalent of seven-year-old me, and can’t take the heat, so i normally cook enough for two very hungry Fast forward to a week later, and the first time i’d ever seen a chilli. people, and both of them are me. it looked like it was made of plastic. in fact, i knew it was made of 46 CIBUS | may 2017
FEATURE
Cooking a good curry - and we’re off to india here, because while not necessarily fussy, i know what i like - usually involves the precise timing and exact measurements generally adhered to in a chemistry lab in an underground bomb-proof bunker somewhere. now, i’m perfectly in my element when frying six and a half cardamom pods in two millilitres of ghee for eleven nanoseconds, but sometimes you just want the quick and easy version that goes from pan to man (or woman, as the case may be) in twenty minutes. So here goes... There are six key ingredients to a curry. Chilli is obviously one of them, because everything you’ve read so far would be completely pointless if it wasn’t. The other five are a tablespoon of minced ginger, two crushed cloves of garlic and a chopped onion, a tablespoon of turmeric and two of garam masala. Get that lot sorted out, and you’re off to a good start. you’ll also need mustard seed, curry leaves, boned chicken thighs, a can of coconut milk, and a pot of plain yogurt. The curry leaves are quite difficult to get hold of here, so if you can’t find any, i suppose curry powder will do just as well, in the same way that a plastic bar of chocolate can replace the real deal... er... but yeah. as for the mustard seed if you’re wondering what colour they should be, go for whatever matches best with the colour of your kitchen floor, since most of them are going to end up there anyway once they start popping. Black, i’ve found, goes with most colour schemes.
have you drooling in a mouth-watering culinary trance. Try to regain control of yourself long enough to add the coconut milk and the yogurt, and let it simmer until the chicken is cooked through. Season to taste, and serve on a bed of basmati. Sprinkle a handful of salted cashews over it, if sprinkling stuff on stuff is what floats your boat. Chopped coriander also does it justice, and a couple of papadums on the side don’t do any harm either.
ginger
onion
curry ala s a m ram
garlic cloves coconut milk
ga
curry s leave
and they start popping pretty quickly, because that’s where we start from. Heat some oil in a pan, toss in a teaspoon of mustard seed and get ready to dodge out of the way when they start crackling. one way to stop them from ricocheting off the walls, i’ve found, is to slide the onion in on top of them as soon as they start to pop. lower the heat, and fry the onion until it starts to turn brown, then add the ginger and the garlic and as many curry leaves as you like. Then chuck in the chicken and cook it for a bit before adding the turmeric, garam masala and chilli, which could be powdered or flaked or freshly sliced - it won’t really matter at this stage because the aromas coming out of your pan will by now
chicken
t r u g o in y
pla
red chilies
turmeric
and that’s pretty much it. Have a taste... i won’t go into detail, but if you remember the scene in indiana Jones and the raiders of the lost ark where Marion ravenwood kisses where it doesn’t hurt... well, yeah... something a bit like that. every story has to start somewhere. every story also has to end somewhere, and right here, with a delicious curry steaming on the table and ‘raiders’ in the DVD player, waiting for me to press ‘play’, seems as good a place as any...
CIBUS | may 2017 47
SPOTS
MODENA BALSAMIC VINEGAR
A TRULY UNIQUE MALTESE CULINARY EXPERIENCE
The Modena Balsamic vinegar enhances the flavour of meats, especially veal and duck; it is an excellent ingredient in vinaigrette dressings for smoked fish. This balsamic vinegar is made in the region of Modena (Italy). The quality certification (PGI) guarantees its origin and a minimum of 2 months in oak barrel. Its distinctive taste and mild sourness appeal to both people who like vinegar and people who do not. Follow us on Facebook to find out more: www.facebook.com/BorgesMT
SAMMONTANA
Steccoblocco is the tasty milk chocolate bar filled with soft ice-cream made with pasteurised, skimmed fresh milk, and with delicious cocoa flavoured ice-cream. Steccoblocco is popular with children and mothers alike! All Sammontana products are nutritious and tasty, making them the perfect summer between-meals snack: genuine, controlled, guaranteed ingredients (no hydrogenated fats) with all the taste and nutritional quality of fresh milk, a natural source of calcium and protein. Follow us on Facebook to find out more: www.facebook.com/SammontanaMalta
SIMMENTHAL’S CHICKEN SALADS
The salads consist of tender chicken breast and selected vegetables with no jelly, ready to eat where and when you want! All the experience of Simmenthal in 3 tasty flavors that combine the delicacy of chicken and typical ingredients of the Italian territory, with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and without the addition of preservatives. Imported by J. Calleja Import & Export Ltd
Situated in the heart of Mosta, Ta’ Marija Restaurant encourages you to savour their creative Maltese and Mediterranean cuisine; a cuisine that inspires even the most discerning palate. With more than 50 years of experience, the family run restaurant is a signature experience, offering an elegant, warm and informal ambience and a quality, yet friendly service. Open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner, with Maltese themed nights every Friday (complete with folk dancers, mandolins and guitars) and an all-inclusive buffet extravaganza on Saturdays nights and Sunday lunches for only €25, with a singular show every Saturday night by popular singer Corazon. Find out more at www.tamarija.com
HEALTHY YOGHURTS
Yoghurt is a healthy food made from Milk that is essential for children and adults of all ages. It provides calcium and other basic nutrients. It’s a healthy way to have milk! The quality of Yoghurt depends on the quality of the Milk used in production. Pascual Yoghurt is made from 100% liquid milk. Pascual Long Life Yoghurt has the same nutritional values and identical beneficial effects for the intestinal flora as the short 48 CIBUS | jUne 2017
life yoghurt with the advantage of ambient storage. Follow us on Facebook to find out more: www.facebook.com/PascualMalta