Dining Small but Mighty Mestizos possesses a charm that eludes larger spaces BY VALERIE VINYARD Tiny restaurants exude an automatic charm. Mestizos, a new Mexican café on St. Mary’s Road and Grande Avenue, is no exception. The entire space is about 1,200 square feet. The restaurant’s four wood tables include an eight-seat community table, two tables for four and one for two. It possesses a charm that tends to elude larger spaces. Six sizable square windows with black curtain trim offer views of St. Mary’s Road. White walls and one black-and-white tile wall lend a clean, polished look. It’s a brighter and more modern look from the location’s previous restaurant, Manna from Heaven, a fry bread spot. There’s also a patio out back that has eight tables that seat another 20 diners. Made-to-order food and drinks come on black metal camp plates or in generous-sized metal mugs. While listening to boleros in the background, munch on chips and an addictive house-made salsa that has a subtle heat. You’ll see either co-owner Julio Gar-
cia or his mother, Patricia Valle, waiting tables, explaining dishes and offering friendly, helpful service. “I like small places,” Garcia says. “You can serve people better, you can talk to people better.” Garcia, 34, owns the restaurant with his sister, 32-year-old Patricia Gomez. They opened Mestizos on November 3. Garcia was thinking of naming it Latinos, but his sister came up with Mestizos. Garcia says the word means “a man of mixed race, especially of Spanish and indigenous descent.” He sees himself in the name, too, describing himself as “90% Mexican because he lived in Mexico, but he was born here.” That’s also why they chose to decorate the restaurant in black and white. He sees Mestizos as “a place where people can come and relax and enjoy good food. I want them to be more happy than when they came in.” Garcia, who was born in Los Angeles but grew up in Nogales, Sonora, has over 10 years in the restaurant business, including stints as a server and manager at Mariscos Chihuahua and Casa Valencia on Valencia Road. “We like food,” Garcia says. “We like Mexican
Made-to-order food and drinks come on black metal camp plates or in generous-sized metal mugs. (Submitted photos)
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The word “Mestizos” means “a man of mixed race, especially of Spanish and indigenous descent,” according to co-owner Julio Garcia. (Photo by Valerie Vinyard)
peppers and onion, is a customer favorfood a lot.” Some of the food at Mestizos isn’t ite, as are the restaurant’s vegan options. found on many—if any—other Mexican Tacos can be served on corn tortillas or restaurants’ menus around Tucson. Food Mestizos style, which resembles an empanada. prices range from $3 to $14. “We make it with love,” says Garcia, On my first visit, I tried the Molletes ($5). A smoky black bean spread was slathered noting they go food shopping every on two slabs of pillowy soft bolillo bread day. “We put all the right ingredients, the and topped with a generous amount of freshest ingredients.” For dessert, there’s Mexican cookie queso fresco and sprigs of cilantro. On Wednesdays, the dish is half-priced. I’ve cake ($4), which is made with layers of never seen it featured on other menus, galletas Maria. It has a cheesecake texture and contains a mix of Mexican sweet and it’s become my go-to starter. “We wanted to bring the Mexican cul- creams. There’s also flan ($4) for those ture but in a different way than a tradi- seeking a more traditional dish. When your bill comes, you’ll be treated tional Mexican restaurant or a traditional to a tasty piece of tamarind or coconut Mexican food truck,” Garcia says. Another special takes place on Mon- candy. And remember, the restaurant is days, when Mestizos features two-for- cash only. “We’re not a fast-food restaurant,” Garone fish tacos. For a mere $4.35 (including tax), diners will be delighted by two cia says. “We’re a good food restaurant.” Corina Ontiveros was dining at Mesticorn tortillas layered with zos one afternoon with her two daughmelted cheese ters, 17-year-old Alexis and 10-year-old and full of Elis. “We love the food, the service,” says chunks of gently fried swai. A Ontiveros, who has eaten at Mestizos a side of pico de few times. “The people are really terrific gallo, chopped here.” Ontiveros recommended the “delilettuce and tomato and a cious” blue corn quesadilla ($4). She’s also scoop of white a fan of the picadillo taco, because it has rice complete “the right combination of spices.” She works and lives nearby, but she the dish. It’s tough to find also likes the price point. “It costs about the same as a meal a fresher, more delicious dish you’d get at a fast food restaurant,” she says. “But the food is so much better.” for the price. The menu is also comprised of soups, including Siete del Mares Mestizos+Cocina+Sabor+Mexico ($14), and a variety of tacos ($31118 W. St. Mary’s Road, 372-2404; $4). Garcia said the ahogado taco, cash only. Closed Tuesdays. a grilled shrimp taco with yellow www.LovinLife.com
