Recovery
Garden Debut
The state of Downtown
Halo dedicates garden to late
businesses after looting
LA artist Robert Graham
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OUTDOOR DINING GUIDE Page 5 September 28, 2020 I VOL. 49 I #39
Alfresco Dining Downtown eateries pivot during the pandemic
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businesses after looting By Andres de Ocampo n May 29, Black Lives Matter protests filled the streets of Downtown Los Angeles to show outrage for the death of George Floyd, a Black man killed by police in Minneapolis. Throughout the weekend, peaceful protests turned into riots and looting, leaving many local businesses affected. One of those businesses heavily damaged and looted was The Small Shop LA, operated by four-year owner Joel Stallworth. “They say a riot is the cry of the unheard,” he said. “We need justice (and) change in America. … All this can be replaced,” he said, referencing his business. “When you damage people’s lives, that hurts me more than my shop. “The protests created change. The riots created change. Without the riot and the protests, we have no change. I don’t agree with people tearing up people’s property, but I understand it. People need to be heard (and) protected in a country that says, ‘Freedom and justice for all.’ We don’t see that as people of color, so it’s hard for me not to be with them. I’ve always put (the people) first. … I’ve got love for the people, (and) the people showed me love back.” Stallworth’s supporters started a GoFundMe for The Small Shop LA, and the monies raised were enough to rebuild the store, which sells streetwear clothing and other items. “As fast as the community saw the teardown, they built it back up quicker and better,” he said. “My store looks better. I have more customers than ever. It’s actually been a better experience.” Stallworth said he feels a stronger connection with the community since the looting and expressed his gratitude to those who donated to The Small Shop LA’s GoFundMe. “I woke up crying some mornings (be-
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cause) of all the outpour of love via Instagram after the aftermath (of the looting).” Stallworth’s plans include a grand reopening sometime in September, as well as educating himself about migrant children being separated from their families at the border, “to do a project with shirts and hats to give half of the proceeds to (those affected).” Shan Bassam, business associate at Zara Jewelers, was also affected by the looting, as it lost $100,000 worth of merchandise. Bassam thought, “This is the end of it.” “Deep inside you feel like (the) respect you had for (the) city, country and police department isn’t there anymore,” he said, “… We do appreciate what (Los Angeles) has offered us before the looting … (but the) police department and fire department could have done more (during the incident).” Like many minority-owned and -operated local businesses, Bassam worries about the safety of his business’ merchandise. “After the looting, me, my brother and all the other jewelers check their cameras more than they check on their kids, (because) that’s our life. That’s where we get our food, water and bread (to put on) the table for our families. … There are jewelers that are closed. They’re never going to open. … For me, personally, (I) don’t have a choice,” he said. Zara Jewelers is open, but Bassam said he is still awaiting a handful of repairs. “Business is OK, (but) I don’t feel how I used to feel for Los Angeles,” Bassam said, commenting on a shift in respect for Los Angeles and law enforcement. “I’m from Afghanistan, and to be able to make some money in America, we did not bring a penny, and then you get to a place (where) almost all your life savings is on the street and (the) police cannot protect it,” Bassam said. Bassam has been working with other local jewelers for a petition to have dedicat-
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John Prescott, owner of Throw Clay LA, repainted his building and fixed his store’s logo after his store was vandalized during the protests turned riots. Photo by Luis Chavez
ed police officers patrolling the Jewelry District. In regard to safety and a feeling of security for affected businesses, Bassam said, “Some local government has to come and give a speech in Los Angeles. … No one is telling us anything. Should we open the doors? Should we leave it closed? What’s the next step? “If the same thing happens again, how am I going to protect myself,” Bassam said about his current mindset. “I know that I can’t count on the police … (but) I have hope. I see light at the end of the tunnel, eventually we’ll get through it … (but) there will be a scar for the rest of my life.” Bill Nabiti, 35-year owner of Discount
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Electronics, is open after being broken into and looted but said, “Still I’m struggling. I lost a lot of money; they stole a lot of money. … (Business) is going, but it’s not how it used to be. I don’t have enough merchandise. … It takes time, but it’s going to be alright. “When the jungle burns, good or bad burns (along with it),” Nabiti said. “I’m used to it. It happened to me before, during Rodney King in 1992.” But, he admitted, “It’s sad when you see all the merchandise on the street. “I have employees, so I’m worried about them, too. They didn’t have a job for a while,” he said, referring to COVID-19 busi-
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ness closures prior to the looting. “I think the police department should be ready. (Next time) they need to act sooner. … It’s a shame.” Fortunately, Nabiti was able to open his store after a week but said, “I’m the only one surviving. … I know all the electronic stores (in Downtown). Five stores (have) been closed in the past three months because they cannot make it. One after the other.” Nabiti’s customers were empathetic to his situation. “They grabbed a broom and (helped) clean glass (from windows). Most of them were sorry it happened to me,” he said. Sauli Danpour, principal owner of 700 Wilshire, a building in the Downtown Financial District, is an Iranian immigrant whose building was affected. “It’s been a struggle,” he said about recovering from COVID-19 closures, riots and other setbacks for himself and his tenants. “It’s my understanding that in the Financial District, my building was damaged the most because of the riots,” he said. “My concern isn’t so much my business as it is my tenants, especially small businesses.” Danpour is a board member on the Downtown Center Business Improvement District, which creates economic development initiatives for community businesses.
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“One of the proposals I made recently was to set up al frescos for some of these food establishments,” he said about his recent initiative to set up outdoor dining spaces to generate more business for Downtown food establishments. As a landlord, Danpour said, “I started (my) business with borrowed money, and it was a lot of hard work. I do relate to the challenges, especially for small-business owners. … That’s why I help (them) as much as I can.” John Prescott, owner of Throw Clay LA, repainted his building and fixed his store’s logo after his store was vandalized during the protests turned riots. Since then, Prescott said, “Things have certainly gotten better from the standpoint of my business.” Throw Clay LA reopened a month ago, and Prescott expressed gratitude, saying, “I’m so lucky to have the community that I have. … I was definitely helped out by my members, and I try to do the same in return.” What helped Prescott while his business was closed was “just staying positive (and) keeping people engaged,” he said. “Whether or not it’s a sale being made, just being able to have engagement with the community is very important, making sure people know you’re still here.”
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Throw Clay reopened a month ago, and owner John Prescott is grateful for the community. Photo by Luis Chavez
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Reward offered for Chinatown hit-and-run case By Sara Rashidi APD Deputy Chief Blake Chow and the office of Councilman Gil Cedillo announced on September 22 a $25,000 reward for information on a September 4 hitand-run collision in Chinatown. The morning news conference was held at Blossom Plaza Quad, at 900 N. Broadway, near where the accident occurred. Police released security video and photos, along with a composite sketch urging community members to help identify the driver. According to the Los Angeles Police Department, a black 2003 to 2006 Mercedes-Benz C230 struck a 71-year-old female crossing Broadway at College Street with the “walk” signal around 5 p.m. September 4. Ricardo Flores, field deputy for Cedillo, said the driver was traveling west on College Street when he turned south onto Broadway and hit the female, catapulting her into the air. She landed on the street. “The driver stopped and exited the vehicle, before fleeing the scene without rendering aid or identifying himself,” Flores said. “The
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female sustained a brain bleed, broken neck, clavicle and pelvis, that required her to be admitted into the intensive care unit.” The victim’s daughter said she is concerned her mother won’t be able to completely recover. “My mother is a very strong and active person. To see her laying in that bed with pain, it was very heartbreaking to see that,” she said. “My mother did not deserve to be left on the street without any assistance. She might not be able to look the same anymore.” The victim’s 11-year-old grandson, who has not been able to visit her grandmother yet due to the pandemic, said the family has been going through a lot. “At the beginning she did not look so good, but I’ve talked to her through FaceTime again and she seems a lot better,” he said. “However, I was very sad ... because my cousin has actually passed away recently and it’s been hard for everybody, and it’s just a lot harder when something like this happens again.” He also said he hopes the driver does the
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The LAPD released this sketch of a man wanted in connection with a hit-and-run collision in Chinatown on September 4. Sketch courtesy LAPD
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with dark black hair and tips being bleached, tattoos on both arms and the number “1” inked on the right side of his face. He was wearing a black tank top, black shorts, and black and white tennis shoes with white laces and soles. Anyone with information is asked to call Det. Juan Campos at 213-486-0755 or 213640-2168, or email 31480@lapd.online.
right thing and comes forward. “I just want their (the driver’s) kids to know that maybe their dad did not do it on purpose or maybe he did or maybe he made a bad decision,” he said. “But don’t do it again, and do the right thing.” Witnesses described the driver as being a Black male, between 35 and 40 years old, about 6-foot-4 and weighing 180 pounds,
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Downtown eateries pivot to alfresco during the pandemic By Andrew Checchia etting into the restaurant business is a notoriously volatile prospect. Fickle customers and rising real estate and wage costs continuously fuel the high turnover rates of eateries in culinary hubs like Los Angeles. With nearly 30,000 restaurants around the city, the scene never eases up on its cutthroat competition and slim profit margins, and the social restrictions surrounding the COVID-19 pandemic have only made the situation more dire. “All the normal heartbeats of business are gone. You’re predicting,” said Chris Patterson, the owner of Spring Street Smokehouse, a barbecue joint on Downtown’s eastside. “Downtown restaurants in general are in a very tough spot.” Running his business during the pandemic has proven intensely stressful—a kind of blinding roller coaster of confusion. His experiences, mirrored in the countless other restaurants forced to adapt to this constantly shifting public health crisis, are marked by a frustrating lack of direction. Likening the experience to plugging holes in a sinking ship, he fears the worst for businesses in the months to come, saying the myriad of problems fundamentally arise from a “vacuum of leadership” across the board. “These businesses, like mine, are very specifically set up to sell food in this very specific way,” Patterson said of the switch to a takeout or Postmates-style delivery partnership. “(Changing that is) sort of like asking McDonald’s to be a fine-dining restaurant.” Without the established infrastructure, local support through to-go and delivery orders may still lead restaurants down the slow march to closure, unable to pull in necessary profits to cover expensive rents and unpredictable ingredient reserves. But other culinary ventures have discovered alternative avenues for success in these changing times. Brandon Parker, a co-founder of Spread Mediterranean Kitchen, found an entirely new way to use food to connect with the Downtown community during the pandemic. As their flagship Fourth and Main store struggles without indoor dining, their kiosk location at The Gas Co. Towers on W. Fifth Street converted into a takeaway eatery and a limited farmers market. “We stumbled onto this market model. It forced us to say we need to sell our spreads,” said Parker of the kiosk. “We take the new thing we’re offering and try to make it better every single day.” This optimism came from a concerted effort to stay connected with the Downtown and greater Los Angeles community—a frankly difficult task during this year of distance. But as outdoor spaces reopen with safe protocols for in-person experiences, now may be the time to rediscover local favorites as they teeter on the edge of an indirect pandemic demise.
Listed are some of the best places to eat in LA’s urban core while staying masked and outdoors:
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Bavel
Guerrilla Tacos These self-described “street taco aficionados” made waves when starting as a food cart serving upscale tasting dishes on Downtown street corners. Since then, the restaurant found a permanent space, but it never stopped consistently combining the cutting edge of culinary culture with the reliable, familiar flavors Angelenos love from Mexican staples across the city. Stop by at any time of the day for a different menu service or check out the custom at-home taco kits to bring the taste with you. Guerrilla Tacos, 2000 E. Seventh Street, 213-375-3300, guerrillatacos. com
Outdoor dining guide Home-cooked meals and delivery orders brought Angelenos through the last six months, but in-person dining experiences return (again) for reopened, socially distanced outdoor meals. Downtown’s limited space makes patios a bit rarer in the local restaurant landscape, but plenty of fantastic spots have found creative ways to welcome back diners for freshly prepared food.
Redbird
Bavel This Middle Eastern highlight comes from the same group that started the massively successful Italian restaurant Bestia. At Bavel, however, the pastas are swapped for hummus, flatbreads and shawarma. The restaurant works out of a renovated warehouse near the Arts District, one with an especially large outdoor space ready to welcome back diners to its off-kilter assortment of innovative takes on a variety of classic dishes. Bavel, 500 Mateo Street, 213-2324966, baveldtla.com
Guerilla Tacos
Redbird Just blocks away from City Hall, Redbird’s outdoor patio provides a perfect space to enjoy modern American fine dining. While the signature renovated church space can’t operate at full capacity, the happening restaurant still offers impressive brunch and dinner fare alongside its renowned signature cocktails. As the world slowly reopens, keep this place in mind for pretheater meals or after an afternoon Broad visit. Redbird, 114 E. Second Street, 213788-1191, redbird.la Continued on page 12
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Chefs in DTLA create dynamic outdoor experiences with virtual flair Dining in restaurants might be limited these days, but Downtown chefs are getting more creative than ever. From at-home food and cocktail kits, to live cooking classes on social media, to elevated outdoor dining experiences, the culinary scene is quickly evolving. We teamed up with The Bloc, an open-air outdoor oasis in DTLA that has expanded outdoor seating with a grassy picnic area. You can bring your own food and blankets, while socially distancing, and enjoy the fresh air and music. If you are like us and are dying to test out the latest culinary delights, we have rounded up our favorites. Dine on expanded patios or order online, pick up and devour outside in The Bloc’s plaza area with all-new elevated seating.
JOEY DTLA Start with Korean fried cauliflower and salmon seared sushi and move to the hand-pressed burger (yes, add cheese and bacon) for the main event. If you really want to indulge, substitute the burger for the lobster ravioli. Pair it all with the Mezcal cocktail, refreshing and smoky. joeyrestaurants.com
Hatch Yakitori + Bar This speakeasy-style Japanese destination has built a name in DTLA. With celebrity chef Daniel Shemtob at the helm, open fire skewers (aka yakitori), Japanese whiskey and beer, along with many delicacies, this is a must-experience cuisine. The Hatch team is serving the best alfresco with expanded seating in The Bloc plaza area. We love the avo tuna toast and black karaage chicken for lunch or dinner. hatchyakitori.com
The Deck by District Cocktails with a city skyline view is exactly what the new outdoor dining at Sheraton Grand offers. With adult beverages and food served by District, you know it will be mouthwatering good. We recommend an opium strong medicine cocktail or woodchip smoked Manhattan, with duck fat truffle fries (#duh), and the crispy fish tacos. districtdtla.com
Marugame Udon Just in time for fall, Marugame Udon is cooking up so many favorites. New on the menu, chicken kando sando, teriyaki beef and chicken bowls, along with harumaki that can be ordered online and enjoyed outdoors. Classic favorites bukkake, kitsune, nikutama and tempura will keep you warm all winter season long. marugameudon.com
For more outdoor culinary experiences, hours of operation and menus, visit theblocla.com or follow @theblocla.
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Little Tokyo: Opening its doors to the outdoors On a recent Saturday morning, visitors began streaming into Little Tokyo in numbers not seen since March. The new energy was palpable even as visitors are social distancing and wearing masks. The Little Tokyo Business Improvement District reports that while a handful of places closed, three new restaurants—Champion’s Curry on Central Avenue, Roll Spot Sushi on Onizuka Street and Takoyaki Tanota on First Street—bravely opened in recent weeks. Deciding whether to wait for restrictions to be lifted or to subsist on takeout only is a tough call for small businesses. Fortunately for hungry downtowners, about 90% of Little Tokyo’s nearly 100 restaurants are back in business. Meals programs conducted by local nonprofit organizations Little Tokyo Service Center, Little Tokyo Community Council and Keiro Foundation helped keep restaurants afloat during summer. Honda Plaza, one of Little Tokyo’s network of plazas, took the first steps into outdoor dining in late July. The experiment worked, and soon Honda’s 10 restaurants, including Sushi Gen, Kinjiro, Kagaya,
The Mermaid, Pasta e Pasta, Men Oh, Tous les Jours, Aloha Café, BBQ Chicken DTLA and TeaMaster, were welcoming back loyal customers. With help from the mayor’s office and LADOT and led by Fugetsu-Do owner Brian Kito, the entire block on the historic north side of East First Street is devoted to outdoor dining. Participating are Boteaga Bubble Tea, Daikokuya, Family Mart, Far Bar, Fugetsu-Do, Hachioji, Marugame Monzo, Mr. Ramen, My Ramen Bar, Rakkan, Sake Dojo and Suehiro. On the south side of First Street, Azay Restaurant, Mike’s Deli and Mitsuru Grill & Sushi are also open. Businesses in Little Tokyo’s largest mall, Japanese Village Plaza, continue to rock to their own distinctive rhythm with outdoor tables and a wide variety of cuisines. Busiest and best known are Café Dulce, Chinchikurin, Honeymee, Kula Sushi, Las Galas, Mitsuru Café, Hama Sushi, Komasa, Kagura, Korean Barbecue, Little Tokyo Ice Cream, Mikawaya, Oomasa, Ramen Maruya, Shabu Shabu House, Sushi & Teri, Teishokuya of Tokyo (T.O.T.) and Yamazaki Bakery. On Second Street, Kouraku, Gong Cha, Hakata Ikkousha Ramen, Milk+T, Donatsu, Ebisu, Somi Somi, Bae Ice Cream, Boba Time, Bicycle Coffee, Spitz and Zencu Sushi are bustling with activity as are Tenno Sushi, Johnny Rockets, Prime Pizza and Shin Sen Gumi on Central Avenue. Outdoor dining is not yet been permitted in Weller Court; however, takeout and pickup are available.
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Dining alfresco in the Downtown Center While it is important to observe safety measures and practice physical distancing, those looking to eat outside will find many Downtown Center restaurants with outdoor patios available where they can savor the fresh air and delicious food—all while supporting local businesses. Here is a handy guide to some of the best alfresco dining spots in Downtown LA. Food halls and shopping centers Food halls and shopping centers have a variety of eateries with ample outdoor seating. Where else can you go shopping outdoors and find sandwiches, salads and other specialty foods in the same place? Whether you need to refuel after errands or just want a smorgasbord of dining options to choose from, these one-stop shopping centers are the place for you. FIGat7th Taste Food Hall is a unique dining experience at FIGat7th, a lively open-air shopping mall located at Figueroa and Seventh streets with a collection of chef-driven casual eateries. There are also several restaurants at FIGat7th offering takeout, which you can get to go and enjoy on the communal patio. Try Pizza Studio, Salata, Morton’s, George’s Greek Grill or Mendocino Farms.
30,000-square-foot arcade encompasses a food emporium and retail marketplace with outdoor seating available. Try The Donut Man, Belcampo Meat Co., Horse Thief BBQ, Lucky Bird or Olio Wood Fired Pizzeria. The Bloc The Bloc is an open-air urban plaza at 700 W. Seventh Street that features curated shops, restaurants, bars and entertainment, as well as a beautifully curated public area. Recently, The Bloc expanded restaurant outdoor seating spaces throughout the property to safely accommodate additional guests. Try JOEY DTLA, HATCH Yakitori + Bar, and DISTRICT.
Restaurants with outdoor seating The best restaurants in Downtown LA offer stellar outdoor seating options as well. If you’re tired of cooking or heating up leftovers, why not head to some of these DTLA restaurants for a delicious and socially distanced meal on the patio? Try Pez Cantina, Pitchoun Bakery & Café, 10e, Redbird or Engine Co. No. 28.
Bars with outdoor seating If you’re looking to unwind, take advantage of the sunny weather and head to one of DTLA’s many fantastic bars and lounges with outdoor seating. Good company, refreshing drinks and the great outdoors? Sounds like a perfect afternoon! Try Library Bar, Dublin’s Irish Whiskey Bar, or Limerick’s Tavern. Rooftop bars and lounges Downtown LA’s iconic skyline is an ideal backdrop for your night out on the town. For stunning views of DTLA, there are fantastic rooftop bars in Los Angeles where you can admire the stars over a glass of wine—or two. Try Perch, Broken Shaker or the Rooftop at the Wayfarer, or Elevate Lounge. Downtown LA’s businesses and workers are the lifeblood of our economy, our culture and our stomachs. As we continue to maneuver through the current landscape, dining outdoors is one way to support local restaurants while adhering to safety recommendations. Be generous, be respectful and be nourished. We are in this together, DTLA.
Grand Central Market Grand Central Market is a landmark in the heart of Downtown that is committed to celebrating the cuisines and cultures of Los Angeles. The ADVERTORIAL
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Dining alfresco at FIG
Searching for DTLA’s latest alfresco dining spot? Craving sunshine, fresh air, good food and socially distanced meetups? Get it all at FIGat7th’s new dining area nestled amongst the trees on its park-like upper Plaza Level.
In fact, FIGat7th has a bevy of outdoor dining options and plenty of tasty food choices at recently reopened eateries in TASTE Food Hall. Grab a bite after shopping or plan a distanced date night and choose from fresh, made-to-order wraps and salads at Salata or Twist & Grill, cheesy sandwiches from The Melt, refreshing drinks from CoCo Fresh Tea & Juice, mouthwatering fries from Five Guys, custom pizzas from Pizza Studio, and so much more. In addition to the park-like setting for dining on the Plaza Level of FIGat7th, other outdoor dining options include TASTE Food Hall’s Courtyard on the Lower Level M1, perfect for savoring Mendocino Farms or George’s Greek Grill. Plus, the newly created Morton’s The Steakhouse patio seating on FIGat7th’s Middle Level M2 next to Sprinkles Cupcakes and California Pizza Kitchen’s extended patio seating at Street Level M3. For more information, visit figat7th.com or follow on Instagram @figat7th. And watch out for FIGat7th’s new Dine with Purpose program, coming in November. ADVERTORIAL
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Continued from page 5 RiceBox No one can deny the ubiquity of Koreatown’s signature barbecue, but Downtown hosts another East Asian style equally worthy of international attention—Cantonese. RiceBox brings the distinct flavors of southern China with selections like the char siu (barbecued pork) and mapo eggplant. Though still committed to authentic flavors, the restaurant also puts special effort toward selecting fresh, high-quality, usually organic ingredients for all its dishes. RiceBox, 541 S. Spring Street, Suite 131, 213-988-7395, ricebox.net
RiceBox
Spread Mediterranean Kitchen Part Mediterranean lunch spot, part farmers market. Spread partners with local farms to bring fresh produce to Downtown with a pop-up market— one that also features their namesake homemade spreads. The market also features free delivery for those in the Downtown area, keeping the shop locally connected and dedicated to providing good food whatever the circumstances may be. Spread Mediterranean Kitchen, 555 W. Fifth Street, 213-537-0284, spreadkitchen.com
Spring Street Smokehouse Serving up barbecue classics from brisket, to ribs, to Texas sausage, Spring Street Smokehouse recently received city permission to extend its outdoor seating onto the street and sidewalk. With the extra space, the restaurant is serving up a full menu of its slow-cooked fare, all topped with its special Carolina-style sauce. Spring Street Smokehouse, 640 N. Spring Street, 213-626-0535, sssmokehouse.com Spring Street Smokehouse
Urth Caffé As a local chain and staple for big breakfasts, casual brunches and professional lunches, Urth Caffé’s Downtown location benefits from a relatively large patio, at least by the neighborhood’s standards. With distancing in place, customers can once again enjoy the large menu of sandwiches, salads, bowls and pastries alongside Urth’s extensive coffee and tea selection. Urth Caffé, 459 S. Hewitt Street, 213797-4534, urthcaffe.com Spread Mediterranean Kitchen
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New outside patio at H & H Steakhouse!
Social distancing is not an issue at H & H. As the pandemic started heating up in early April, owner Henrique Huyer and his team started building an outdoor patio in the rear of the restaurant. Now guests can enjoy H & H Brazilian Steakhouse alfresco! At H & H Brazilian Steakhouse, the staff is committed to working only with the best suppliers, ensuring they always serve organic, grass-fed meat and produce. H & H Brazilian Steakhouse was started by Huyer with a mission of bringing to the American market the authentic, traditional Brazilian barbecue from Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil. ADVERTORIAL
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518 W 7th Street, DTLA 213.266.8103 • hhsteakhouse.com Located in the Heart of Downtown LA on 7th St. between Grand St and Olive St.
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SEPTEMBER 28, 2020
Omakase 10-piece nigiri from Mikaza Nikkei Sushi. Photo by Luis Chavez
Sushi chef Elizabeth Valensia prepares Spanish mackerel. Photo by Luis Chavez
Authentic Nikkei cuisine arrives Downtown By Frier McCollister ven in the midst of the pandemic, it’s still a challenge to argue that Los Angeles has a deficit in access to any particular international genre or style of cuisine. Name it, find it. Nikkei cuisine? This distinctive blend of Japanese and Peruvian influence that originates from Peru’s long-standing generational community of Japanese expatriates has arguably been represented here since the late ’80s. Nobu Matsuhisa opened his flagship namesake Matsuhisa restaurant in Beverly Hills on La Cienega’s Restaurant Row in 1987. Arriving on a wave of national sushi mania, Matsuhisa stood apart with its subtle Peruvian influences. That said, it never fully embraced Nikkei cuisine as it exists in Lima. Now, more than 30 years later, some of the most-renowned restaurants in Latin America—notably Maido and Central Restaurant in Lima—specifically dedicate their menus to Nikkei preparations and technique. For all of its vibrant dining diversity, Los Angeles has been notably late to the international Nikkei fiesta—until now. The September 7 opening represents a notable and refreshing new addition to Downtown’s ever-changing spectrum of dining choices. While the sushi enthusiast will easily find all the favorite sashimi, nigiri and maki roll combinations, the more adventurous Downtown gourmand will find a truly unique selection of Peruvian ceviche, Nikkei-style tiraditos, yakitori/anticucho skewers, as well as more-traditional Peruvian entrees, like lomo saltado. Lomo saltado
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combines marined strips of sirloin with onions, tomatoes and French fries. The fact that this authentically curated Nikkei menu has been engineered by one of our own beloved Tijuana-style taqueros makes the Downtown arrival of MiKaza all the more fascinating. “Nobu is mainstream now,” Danny Rodriguez, the mastermind behind the breakout taco sensation Pablito’s Tacos, ruminates over how his popular taco pop-ups led to this formal tribute to Peruvian Nikkei cuisine and culture. A Peruvian native who moved with his family to Burbank at age 10, Rodriguez graduated from Burbank High and studied film production at UC Santa Barbara. His experience as a film producer matched him with attorney and his managing partner Wayne Little, who busily presided over the opening-night mania. “I’m about people. Danny’s about the food. Together we’re a pretty good team” Little said. Rodriguez opened Pablito’s Kitchen in Burbank five years ago as an informal cafe featuring traditional Peruvian ceviche and entrees like pollo a la braza, and lomo and chicken saltados. “I started having conversations with my chef at Pablito’s, Flor Oropeza,” he recalled. “‘I said, ‘What if we do a little taco stand with a Peruvian touch?’” Rodriguez began sampling tacos all over town and determined that Tijuana style combined the necessary, basic elements for his own unique take. “I came to the conclusion that there were three elements that make a great
taco: handmade tortillas; the meat must be grilled, charbroiled with mesquite; a slab of guacamole, automatically. That was the TJstyle taco,” Rodriguez said. Peruvian green “crack” sauce—a house specialty—topped off his version, soon to wide acclaim. Beginning in his parking lot with “a grill and a trompo, we launch it and it just goes crazy.” After managing to negotiate a standing pop-up at the coveted and iconic Circus Liquor in Burbank, two roving trucks and two more ongoing pop-ups ensued over the next year. The dramatic runaway success of Pablito’s Tacos led Rodriguez to begin grooming the MiKaza concept. “It was during this time I was developing the MiKaza brand to go after the Nikkei cuisine. … It was virgin territory in LA.” He began working with a broker to scout sites for the restaurant in January. Settling on the Broadway-facing side of the Spring Arcade building between Fifth and Sixth streets, negotiations started when the pandemic lockdown arrived and the deal collapsed. By June, the landlord approached Rodriguez to reconsider a deal, and soon MiKaza was on a fast track to open. “I got the keys three weeks ago,” Rodriguez said. “What should have taken two to three months, we did in two to three weeks.” In the meantime, chef Miguel Torres— an Argentinian star chef, Nikkei expert and long-time friend—contacted Rodriguez from Hawaii. The lockdown left him stranded there, unable to return to Argentina. Rodriguez previously attempted to work with Torres, but onerous visa complications prevented the collaboration. Ironically, the lockdown provided a pathway to opening MiKaza with his chef of choice (not to mention the employment of a staff of 30). The remaining piece of the puzzle—the critical role of sushi chef—was solved by his original chef and partner in Pablito’s Tacos, Flor Oropeza. Oropeza’s sister, Elizabeth Valencia, is a rarity: a female sushi chef taught directly by a Japanese master. An 18-year veteran helming Hama Sushi in Venice Beach, most recently she wielded the knives at Wabi on Rose. MiKaza has outdoor distanced tables located in the breezeway of the Arcade
building, next to the small indoor dining room and bar. It affords a haven and a vantage point to observe the bustling street action of Broadway. On opening night, the arcade’s breezeway is abuzz with activity. The ever-congenial server Jasmine Yee arrives with a bowl of gently fried Peruvian corn nuts tossed with thinly shaved curls of fried sweet potato, all tossed with savory togarashi seasoning. The menu begins with a section titled “Izakaya/Tapas,” which features a variety of small plates that include Nikkei standouts like entrana buns, steamed buns stuffed with skirt steak confit, anticucho sauce and topped with red pepper aioli ($12), or sticky passion shrimp, lightly battered and fried tiger shrimp with a passion fruit citric glaze, topped with chopped almond bits ($14). Continue on to the ceviche. Ceviche is the national dish of Peru. It is distinguished from Mexican and Central American versions by its longer marination time in “leche de tigre,” the spicy citrus-based marinade that defines this national dish. The Ceviche Diablo ($18) at MiKaza delivers the expected punch of devilish heat that its name implies, but it is also gorgeously presented in a shallow bowl scattered with marinated kernels of Peruvian corn and slim slices of sweet potato. It will very likely expand on anyone’s notion of what local ceviche can be. Tiraditos ($15 to $18) are subtitled “Peruvian sashimi” and are small rolls of raw fish basking in various calibrations of leche de tigre and Nikkei citrus reductions. There is also a list of nine Nikkei-style nigiri sushi preps ($11 to $18), including halibut topped with acevichada sauce, serrano pepper and “micro cilantro,” as well as yellowtail belly with anticuchera sauce “topped with escabechada and a drop of Huacatay.” Huacatay? It’s the creamy green “crack” salsa that tops Pablito’s tacos and a standard condiment to many Peruvian dishes. Peruvian black mint is the secret ingredient. Don’t worry, there’s a spicy tuna roll on the menu, too. Pro tip? On Tuesdays, the Pablito’s Taco Truck may well be parked just outside on Broadway. A lomo saltado taco could be the perfect complement to a Pisco-infused cocktail at magic hour.
MiKaza Nikkei Sushi 542 S. Broadway, Los Angeles 213-466-2820, mikazadtla.com @mikazadtla
SEPTEMBER 28, 2020
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Halo debuts garden dedicated to late LA artist Robert Graham By Annika Tomlin obert Graham was well known for his public commission art projects, ranging from the Olympic Arts Festival in 1984 to the 1997 FDR Memorial in Washington, D.C. Graham’s “Fountain Figures I-IV” made their debut at Halo, 330 S. Hope Street, Los Angeles, on his birthday, August 19. “(The Fountain Figures) were initially installed at the Wells Fargo Center, which is now Halo,” said Graham’s son, Steven Graham. “It was basically a relocation. Originally the fountains were in the Wells Fargo Center before Halo did its remodel and renovations of the whole plaza area.” Steven, who works under the Robert Graham Studio/Estate, was contacted by Karen Amiel two years ago about relocating the fountains. The Halo plaza will be unveiled later this year with the four bronze figures bringing an interactive element to the walking area. “The fountains are part of the plaza that connects Grand to Hope,” Steven said. “It’s a pedestrian plaza really that has a lot of traffic during the day—you know prepandemic travel all day long.” The Fountain Figures were inspired by gymnastic athleticism, strength and beauty. The fountain water flows over bronze and granite into a shallow reflecting pool integrated into the Halo’s landscape. During his career, Robert replicated the female form in a range of precisely detailed works that were intimately sized to large public monuments. “I am extremely gratified to see my father’s work given new life to a broader audience and grateful to Brookfield Properties for their commitment to thoughtfully integrating the fountains into the soon-to-be dedicated Graham Garden,” Steven said. He hopes pedestrians enjoy his father’s work that he feels brings a sense of community to the space.
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“Fountain Figure II” was commissioned by Robert Graham in 1983. Photo courtesy Steven Graham
“It’s really uncontrollable who sees them, how they see them,” Steven said. “It is an outside setting, so it’s a very different and unique interaction with artwork which is exciting in a way that people engage sometimes specifically to go look at them. “Sometimes it’s just randomly because they are just walking from point A to point B and they look up and see something. I think that the public engagement is a really important element and also a community connection.” Steven loves all of the Fountain Figures but especially likes Fountain Figure IV. “I like the movement and how the water feature is sort of the most visual and dynamic,” Steven said. “I think the setting is beautiful and the way that they reflect and have a beautiful sort of calming movement on them.” Steven looks forward to the day when the garden is full of people and when the world will get “back to some normalcy.”
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SEPTEMBER 28, 2020
DCBID reveals DTLA 2020 Survey results By Kamala Kirk he Downtown Center Business Improvement District (DCBID) recently released the results of its DTLA 2020 Survey, which has been conducted since 2005 to chronicle and quantify the characters, attitudes and behaviors of DTLA’s growing population. The survey was conducted prior to the onset of COVID-19, and this year’s report explored new key segments of the population, which included office workers, residents with children, and arts and culture patrons. More than 3,600 people participated in the survey, and responses were collected online and supported by extensive promotional outreach, which included email, postcards, in-person kiosk outreach across DTLA, a comprehensive social media campaign, and front-page placement on downtownla.com. “The DTLA 2020 Survey helps to understand the characteristics, attitudes, preferences and behaviors of Downtown residents, workers and consumers,” said Suzanne Holley, president and CEO of the DCBID. “The survey breaks the greater DTLA population into specific categories, which are then queried on topics such as where they live and in what type of housing, where they spend their free time, and so forth. They are also asked more esoteric questions, such as whether or not they feel DTLA is moving in the right direction. Understanding the demographics and personal preferences of these key groups allows us to be more efficient, targeted and impactful with our Clean and Safe Programs, our business development efforts and our marketing outreach.” The DCBID is a coalition of more than 2,000 property owners in the central business district who are committed to enhancing the quality of life in DTLA. For the past 20 years, the organization’s programs and initiatives have been the driving force behind the DTLA renaissance since 1999.
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Suzanne Holley is the president and CEO of the Downtown Center Business Improvement District (DCBID), a coalition of property owners committed to enhancing the quality of life in DTLA. Photo courtesy Downtown Center Business Improvement District
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Every year, the DCBID conducts a DTLA Survey to better understand the characteristics, behaviors, attitudes and preferences of DTLA residents, workers and consumers. Photo by Simon Zhu / Unsplash
Compared to the previous year, the results from the 2020 survey show a steady positive trend in the major demographics for DTLA residents: They are young with a median age of 40, highly educated, and have an average annual household income in excess of $120,000. The survey also indicated that DTLA residents continue to be extremely committed to their community, with 80% of residents stating they are passionate about the community and 70% feel connected to their environs. “Unique to the 2020 survey, we delved even deeper into our audiences, further dividing our core groups into smaller key segments of the population to learn more about who they are, what they do in Downtown, and why,” Holley said. “For instance, we learned that 83% of the ‘Family Focused’ segment, which are those that have one child or are considering children, love living in DTLA. And breaking through prior misconceptions, 45% of ‘Family Focused’ want to stay in DTLA. It is key data such as this that helps us shape our programs and attract the next wave of businesses, residents and visitors.” The DCBID also announced the launch the DTLA Recovery Compass, a long-term tracking study of the sentiments and attitudes of people who regularly engage with DTLA to help guide recovery and economic decision making. “The Recovery Compass arose from our Business Engagement Program,” Holley said. “In talking to local businesses, we heard a real need for them to understand where we were in recovery—how their customers were feeling, what they were doing and what their concerns were—so that they could better and more quickly serve them. We felt that information would be valuable to us internally as we determine how we can most effectively support those folks and the recovery, how we should deploy our resources, what programs would be most impactful and what information people need.” The first wave of the DTLA Recovery Compass launched in mid-August and the first report on the results of the responses from the first wave will be published in early October, with subsequent reports being released on a monthly basis. It will enable the DCBID to do three things that will benefit DTLA: It will help them tailor programs, services and messaging to most effectively support downtowners during the pandemic; it will inform local businesses of the best ways for them to address and cater to those same people; and it will track people’s sentiments, attitudes and behaviors as they progress on the road to recovery. “All of those things will also help us inspire confidence in and foster enthusiasm for DTLA, which is a key factor in driving its progress,” Holley said. “Consumer confidence is the most-important economic factor. This is not just about tracking the recovery; it’s about guiding and supporting it. As our survey clearly shows, downtowners are engaged and active—they care about their community and they will be the ones who drive us forward. The Recovery Compass is meant to tap into and amplify that energy and spirit.” Info: downtownla.com
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SEPTEMBER 28, 2020
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Covered California will help BUSINESS
Poppy + Rose is ‘blessed to be a blessing’
Kwini and Michael Reed have donated hundreds of meals to Downtown LA residents through their restaurant Poppy + Rose. Photo courtesy of Celeste Hernandez
By Annika Tomlin oppy + Rose owners Michael and Kwini Reed felt the hardships of COVID-19, similar to other Downtown restaurants, but still found a way to give back to the community. The husband-and-wife duo decided to donate hundreds of their classic American diner fare to various LA-based organizations, including Brown Bag Lady and Pullum Center. In March, when COVID forced the closure of restaurants, the Reeds lost between 90% and 95% of their revenue. “We felt the effect as soon as they closed us for dine-in, because in that day we had to lay off all of our staff,” Kwini said. “We had to make the transition and I wasn’t trained on front of the house, but I had to come in and start actually working just until we figured out what our trend is going to be.” Michael stayed on as the head chef for the restaurant cooking the small number of orders that came in. “Even though we were like, ‘Dang, we only made $400 or $500 today,’ other restaurants stores that we were talking to were like, ‘We didn’t get an order today’ or ‘We only got one order today,’” Kwini said. “It put things into perspective for us.” Four weeks into the shutdown came the social media-inspired “Blackout Tuesday,”
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where community members were asked to focus on purchasing food and other items from Black-owned businesses. Partnering with third-party delivery services helped the Reeds expand their reach of providing meals. “A lot of people say that (the delivery partners are) terrible, but for us it’s really about value,” Kwini said. “And because we’re in a niche and we’re in a really good place in the market, we do a lot of value, so it works for us.” Between the third and fourth weeks after the shutdown, the Reeds noticed that they were “actually in a good position compared to everyone else.” “We adopted the motto of ‘slow and steady wins the race’ and that ‘we’re blessed to be a blessing,’” Kwini said. The Reeds noticed an influx of homeless people on the street where their restaurant stands and decided to provide meals to them. “It started with us just feeding the people who were on out the street then it kind of snowballed into, ‘OK, let’s reach out and start feeding the first responders,’” Kwini said. “‘Let’s start figuring out how much further. Let’s try to start feeding the community, because there’s a need. People are hungry.” The Reeds have donated close to 2,500 meals through more than 10 organizations. Poppy + Rose’s two regular partners are Brown Bag Lady, who works with Skid Row and Downtown LA homeless, and Pullum Center, which is a South-Central LA organization that works to bring free extracurricular arts and music activities to school children. It has also partnered with MTA DTLA, which thanked bus drivers with meals; COVID testing site at Charles R. Drew of Medicine and Science; and Food for Protest LA, which, in partnership with Black Lives Matter Los Angeles, provides food for BLM protests. Each organization gets around 100 meals each month. “We wanted to go into the community, especially a community that represents us but also the ones that are the most underserved,” Kwini said. The Reeds were involved in charitable activities before the pandemic, too. “Before COVID, because Poppy + Rose closes at 3, Michael had a great idea to turn our kitchen into a learning kitchen,” Kwini said. “We wanted to take kids from the inner city or homeless people who are trying to transition and get back into society, or people who are coming from jail—those type of people who need a second look, a second chance—and teach them how to become chefs and teach them how to run a restaurant so that they have something sustainable to basically fall back on to help them start their lives again. “That was our original idea, and then now that we’re feeding people and we see that that’s a direct impact this is something that we’re going to continue to do.” By the end of September, the Reeds will have launched their website that showcases their nonprofit called the You and I Coalition. It will offer the community a place to donate. On the experiential side, the Reeds will start in October the Poppy Supper on the Roof, which includes a multicoursed meal followed by entertainment. “It’s going to be an elevated dining experience for Poppy + Rose. The first course is the really fun course,” Michael said. “And then going into something that’s more protein and vegetable. The dessert will be something that’s in season from the farmers market.” The family-style dining experience includes seating for groups of two to six people. “We’ll start by partnering with a Black-owned brewery, which is Crowns & Hops in Crenshaw, and then we’re looking to partner with other Black-owned businesses as we curate the Poppy Supper and continue it,” Michael said.
Poppy + Rose 765 Wall Street, Los Angeles 213-995-7799, poppyandrosela.com
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