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Fashion is distorting our perceptions of sustainability
BY EMILY LADEWIG Progress Guest Writer
As we expand our collective knowledge of sustainability and how our daily practices are detrimental to the planet’s health, we might focus on the more outright or intense environmental problems: CO2 emissions, agriculture, single-use plastic, etc. If these issues are of concern to you, congrats- you’re in the majority: 77 percent of US adults consider themselves “particularly concerned” about protecting the environment.
Let me pose another question. Have you ever purchased an item of clothing from a store, say, in a mall, such as Nike, Zara, or H&M? If yes, you are part of the majority, again.
Just 20 fashion brands make up 97 percent of the global economic pro�it in the garment sector, most of which dominate commercial and digital retail outlets worldwide- and many of which are some of the cheapest options available. Most of these brands have something in common: volume-based, price-based, speed-based clothing: AKA, fast fashion.
If you haven’t heard this term before, it’s time to get to know it well. Fast fashion makes up the vast majority of our wardrobes, with 88 percent of US consumers now preferring it as their main clothing source.
This term refers to a business model that prioritizes cheap production and sourcing, rapid trend replication, and shortened renewal cycles- in simpler terms, putting trendy, cheap clothes in the hands of literally any consumer. At this point, you might be able to guess why its popularity has skyrocketed.
Companies like Forever 21 and Shein can replicate designer trends in the blink of an eye and at a fraction of the price. And who doesn’t want to pay next to nothing for the most popular styles?
But don’t stop reading yet if you’re thinking, this doesn’t apply to me, though. I don’t shop at Forever 21. Here’s why it does: fast fashion doesn’t just include those brands recognized to have the cheapest clothing known to mankind, and non-fast-fashion isn’t just “$100 organic natural cotton designer recycled” tshirts, either. The fashion industry entirely has changed.
Many brands that employ some of the same detrimental practices as the more well-known fast fashion companies don’t re�lect this on their price tags. Urban Out�itters, Lululemon, Aritzia, and Gymshark all charge substantially higher prices for their garments than Uniqlo or Forever 21- but receive environmental ratings that are just as low.
These brands might boast sustainability, yet continue producing prodigious amounts of waste, using hazardous chemicals, harming animals, and/or underpaying workers. These high prices despite low environmental standards can make it nearly impossible for the everyday consumer to distinguish fast fashion from others, as markets expand now to af�luent demographics as well as lower-budget ones.
This doesn’t just pose problems for the environment, it’s a serious social and ethical dilemma.
This complicated consumer-producer dynamic goes to show how deeply integrated and virtually inescapable the fast fashion system is in our consumerist world. Every demographic can be taken advantage of, and the power of these companies grows every second – especially with the increased prevalence of “greenwashing.”
But the worst part about all of this? Buying sustainably isn’t easy, nor desirable, for the majority of people. The low prices of most fast fashion brands makes sustainable options pale in comparison, which are also few and far between.
This doesn’t mean there isn’t anything we can do, though. Conservatively buying secondhand, from thrift shops or online retailers like The Real Real or Depop, can steer us away from constantly buying new clothing (while still spending less). Spreading the word and making informed choices can be made easier by websites like Good On You and The Sustainable Apparel Coalition. B ut most importantly, resisting the urge to follow constant trends or re-purchase new clothes as often as most people do may be our best bet. Invest in high-quality, versatile pieces- and you may just end up more satis�ied.
Emily Ladewig is studying sustainability, fashion and business at Arizona State University.
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