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The Water
CONTENTS
Don’t Fear
ventana
VOL.16 NO. 4
MAY 2022
FEA TU R ES
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EDITOR’S NOTE
6
A Year for Adventures
ABOUT TOWN
8
Beyond the Grand Canyon Winslow and Northern Arizona
ADVENTURE 18
Seaside Safari Monterey Bay and Elkhorn Slough
COVER STORY 24
Mountains of the Moon Climbing the Rwenzori Mountains of Uganda Hola and Olé! Rediscovering Barcelona
PHOTO COURTESY WINSLOW VISITOR CENTER/ CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
TRAVEL 34
DEPARTMENTS SHORT LIST 41
518 E. Santa Clara St., Downtown Ventura (805) 643-7043 4
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A preview of coming attractions
COVER STORY: Trekkers view Mount Stanley from the Bamwanjara Pass in Uganda’s Rwenzori Mountains. Photo by Chuck Graham
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EDITOR’S NOTE
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EDITOR IN CHIEF Nancy D. Lackey Shaffer
Photo by Chuck Graham
I
A YEAR FOR ADVENTURES
t feels really good to have a Travel Issue that once again reflects the wanderlust for which our contributors are known. I like camping, short holidays and staycations as much as the next person — and with my schedule, that’s about all I’ve been able to manage lately — but there’s just something so exciting about stories that take me across borders and into faraway places with their own sights, sounds and cultures.
the nation (and beyond). But within striking distance of the Grand Canyon are some lesser-known locations that are worth making time for in your travel itinerary. The charming city of Winslow, for example, made famous in a song by folk rock band The Eagles, is a destination for lovers of music, history and Southwest spirit. Check out About Town to learn more about Winslow and other Northern Arizona highlights.
On our cover are the stunning peaks of the Rwenzori Mountains, a range in Uganda that goes from lush rainforest to steep ridges to boggy moorlands and then icy glaciers before summiting at Mount Stanley and its highest point, Margherita Peak. We have the privilege and pleasure of joining writer Chuck Graham as he climbs to the top of the third highest mountain in Africa, exploring the area’s diverse flora and fauna along the way.
It’s back to California for our final story, about the wildlife that swims, flies and frolics in Monterey Bay and nearby Elkhorn Slough. This biodiversity hotspot is teeming with creatures big and small, thanks to a heady mixture of geology (Monterey Canyon, one of the largest underwater canyons in the world), oceanography (warm water from Mexico meets the cold currents of Alaska here) and geography (miles and miles of habitat, including tide pools, wetlands and kelp forests). This ocean safari is best explored by boat, and we do just that in Adventure.
Then it’s off to Europe for an excursion to Spain and the beautiful, beloved, bustling cultural hub of Barcelona. This seaside city has it all: architecture old and new, artsy enclaves and sandy beaches, botanical gardens and posh city centers, majestic churches and intoxicating nightlife. And the food! Taste the many wonders natural and otherwise of the capital of Catalonia in Travel. Stateside, one of our most wondrous of natural wonders is the Grand Canyon. The very embodiment of desert beauty, it is of course one of the most visited places in
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After months of first staying put and then navigating compromises and adjustments to their travel plans, I’m delighted that our roving reporters are finally getting out and about and having some adventures. I hope you’ve been able to find some of your own. If not, you can still take a trip with Ventana Monthly just by turning the page. Welcome aboard!
– Nancy D. Lackey Shaffer nancy@ventanamonthly.com
CONTRIBUTORS Chuck Graham Mike Nelson Leslie Westbrook GRAPHIC DESIGNERS Nathalie Proulx ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Warren Barrett ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Barbara Kroon
C O N TA C T U S
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BEYOND THE GRA Slow down to take a look at Winslow and the other wonders of Northern Arizona.
H
BY MIKE NELSON
ow many records that reached No. 12 on the Billboard Hot 100 — and no higher — are celebrated with their own commemorative street corner? And how many of them have inspired a renewed appreciation for what that corner, the town in whose heart it rests, and the desert beyond have to offer? The list starts and ends with “Take It Easy,” the first of many hit records for folk rock band the Eagles. That song entered the Hot 100 on June 3, 1972 at No. 79, peaked at No. 12 on July 22, and by August 19 had left the Top 40. But the Glenn Frey-Jackson Browne-penned tune about a guy trying to find his way through love and the desert has hardly left the hearts, minds and vistas of those who live in and visit Winslow, Arizona. For in the heart of this town of 9,000 along Route 66 in the northeast corner of
the Grand Canyon State, a three-hour drive from Phoenix, is a monument celebrating the iconic second verse of “Take It Easy,” a lyric that has helped ignite tourism in Winslow and all of Northern Arizona. Yes, “a-standin’ on a corner in Winslow, Arizona” is a life-sized bronze statue of a young man holding a guitar. Behind him is a trompe-l’oeil mural (courtesy of artist John Pugh) featuring “a girl, my Lord, in a flatbed Ford, slowin’ down to take a look at me.” Just like that unnamed woman, everyone else is taking a look at “Easy” — as the statue by sculptor Ron Adamson is named — on the corner of Second Street and North Kinsley Avenue aka The Corner. Erected in 1999, the statue (which bears some resemblance to Browne) was joined in 2016 by a bronze rendering of Eagles’ co-founder Frey, who died earlier that year. The corner, the statues and the mural are visited annually
DOWNTOWN WINSLOW draws Eagles’ fans, classic car lovers and more to Standin’ On The Corner Park at the intersection of Second and Kinsey. Photo courtesy Winslow Visitor Center/Chamber of Commerce
SWEET SIBLINGS in Topa Topa shirt and dress. 8
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ABOUT TOWN
AND CANYON TAKIN’ IT EASY A colorful sky enhances the wide-open-spaces ambience at Standin’ On The Corner Park in Winslow, Arizona. Photo courtesy Winslow Visitor Center/Chamber of Commerce
by thousands of travelers (Eagles’ fans and others), and many return in late September when Winslow hosts an annual “Standin’ on the Corner” weekend music festival. And many more, throughout the year, venture beyond Winslow to explore and enjoy natural wonders and recreational opportunities within an hour’s drive or two of the town…not least of which is the Grand Canyon itself, 130 miles west. Indeed, the “Standin’ on the Corner” monument has become an engine of economic renewal that has helped return Winslow to a place of prominence and privilege.
CELEBRITY HANGOUT Until the 1960s, Winslow was not only a fine sight to see but a fine place to stay for celebrities traveling by rail or driving along Route 66. Among the famous was Charles Lindbergh, who stayed in Winslow during construction of the Winslow-Lindbergh Regional Airport (still in use), and the Shah of Iran, who landed at Winslow in 1949 so he and his entourage could later visit the Grand Canyon. The favorite hangout for many was the La Posada Hotel, originally built in 1929 alongside the Santa Fe Railroad line by the Fred Harvey Company and considered to be the last of the great trackside hotels. From the 1930s to the 1950s, La Posada was visited and inhabited by golden age movie stars (Clark Gable, Carole Lombard, Jimmy Stewart), cowboys (Gene Autry, Hopalong Cassidy, Will Rogers), presidents (FDR, Harry Truman), scientists (Albert Einstein) and moguls (Howard Hughes). But as rail travel became secondary to auto and air transport, the popularity of “glamour” lodgings like La Posada subsided. The hotel closed in 1957 and, though spared demolition several times, fell into serious disrepair.
Even more damaging was the creation of Interstate 40, running from North Carolina to Barstow, replacing Route 66 as the main east-west highway through the southern U.S., and bypassing Winslow. The town’s economy suffered, with mom-and-pop stores replaced by large national chain operations, and its population dropped from nearly 9,000 in 1960 to less than 8,000 in 1980, by which time the Eagles were well established as America’s leading rock band.
G LO RY R E STO R E D It wasn’t until the 1990s that 14 local, revitalization-minded volunteers decided to establish what would become the “Standin’ On the Corner” Foundation and solicited submissions for artwork to commemorate Winslow’s place in American rocklore. On Sept. 10, 1999, Ron Adamson’s statue and John Pugh’s mural (with an eagle perched outside a window, above the girl in the Ford) were dedicated, later joined by Frey’s likeness. Two decades later, tourists and tourist dollars have flowed into Winslow and Navajo County at record levels, peaking at $355 million in 2019 or 35 percent above 2011, according to the Arizona Office of Tourism. (Even with a pandemic-influenced drop in 2020, spending was still 19 percent above 2011.) Some of them choose to stay at the La Posada Hotel, once the jewel in the design crown of Mary Jane Colter, chief architect for the Fred Harvey Company, whose stylish hotels and restaurants graced hundreds of miles of the Santa Fe Railway in the mid-20th century. Thanks to the husband-wife team of Allen Affeldt and Tina Mion, La Posada was not simply rescued from demolition, but lovingly restored to its original glory, and then some. Continued on page 12
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HISTORY AND HOSPITALITY Visited by celebrities galore in Hollywood’s Golden Age, the historic La Posada Hotel has been restored to its original glory and then some. Photo courtesy La Posada Hotel
Historic elegance and modern comfort abound in La Posada’s southwestern-decorated rooms and 12 acres of serene gardens. The works of Tina Mion, one of Winslow’s most famed contemporary painters, and other area artists are regularly featured in the hotel and several nearby exhibit spaces operated by the Winslow Arts Trust.
OUT AND ABOUT Conveniently situated a few blocks from “The Corner” and 100 feet from Winslow’s Amtrak Station (where the Southwest Chief stops on runs between L.A. and Chicago), La Posada is but one of nearly a dozen lodgings in Winslow. They provide excellent bases not only for visitors to “loosen” their loads, but branch out in all directions to visit any or all of Northeast Arizona’s scenic delights which, collectively, speak to interests ranging from cultural and historical to geological and environmental. Following are but a few fine sights — any one of them a good “place to make your stand” — in, near and within half-a-day’s driving of Winslow. IN WINSLOW • Standin’ on the Corner Park (downtown, East Second Street and North Kinsley Avenue) The intersection of this “pocket park” is inlaid with a huge Route 66 Shield that reminds folks that they are on “the Mother Road.” The chief draw is the aforementioned statuary and mural — not to mention the posing tourist. But in a six-block radius surrounding the park are restaurants, a brewery, gift shops, galleries and more. The annual music festival takes place this year Sept. 23-24, 2022. For more information, call 480.326.3486
or visit www.standinonthecorner.org. • Church of the Mother Road (downtown, 116 East Second Street) A half-block east of Standin’ on the Corner Park, behind the wrought iron gates of Skylark Courtyard, is the smallest church on Route 66, and maybe anywhere else. Built as a memorial for those who lost their lives in Vietnam, it serves as a fine place for prayer, rest and meditation. • Old Trails Museum/Winslow Historical Society (Downtown, 212 North Kinsley Avenue) In the heart of Winslow’s historic district, it houses ancient Native American artifacts, Santa Fe Railroad equipment, Fred Harvey and Route 66 memorabilia, and more. 928.289.5861, oldtrailsmuseum.org. • 9-11 Remembrance Garden (East end of town, East Third Street and Transcon Lane, off I-40) The centerpiece of the garden (and adjacent to Winslow’s Dog Park and Community Garden) is a pair of 14- and 15-foot steel girders from the World Trade Center, the largest pieces given to any community in the nation. Every Sept. 11, Winslow hosts a memorial service and recognition event to acknowledge and celebrate the bravery and sacrifices made by police and firefighters. NEAR WINSLOW: • McHood Park and Clear Creek Reservoir (6 miles southeast of downtown) Swimming, fishing, hiking, picnicking, camping and canoeing (rentals available) are among the outdoor activities available at this tidy resting and “cool down” spot, enjoyed by locals for more than 100 years. 928.289.4792, www.go-arizona.com/McHood-Park-Campground. • Homolovi State Park (3 miles northeast) Continued on page 14
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GRAND DADDY Millions of years in the making, the Grand Canyon remains one of the world’s great natural wonders. Photo by National Park Service The park/campground offers ancient ruins of pueblos that were built 700-900 years ago by ancestors of the Hopi tribe as well as colorful pottery, shards and ancient petroglyphs. 928.289.4106, azstateparks.com/ homolovi/. • Little Painted Desert County Park (18 miles northeast) An exotic combination of colors and natural rock formations, hiking trails and tables makes this a place to, yes, take it easy with a sunset picnic dinner. www.outdoorproject.com/united-states/arizona/little-painted-desert • Rock Art Ranch (23 miles southeast) It’s not a celebration of music makers, but rather a working cattle ranch (reservations required) which offers an exemplary display of Anasazi petroglyphs as well as sweeping vistas of the San Francisco Peaks and the volcanic buttes of the Navajo Reservation. 928.288.3260, www.atlasobscura.com/places/rock-art-ranch. • Meteor Crater and Barringer Space Museum (26 miles west) Earth’s best-preserved impact site features topographical terrain that closely resembles the surface of the moon — one reason NASA designated the crater as the training site for all U.S. astronauts. Camping is available. 928.289.5898, meteorcrater.com. FURTHER OUT: • Painted Desert and Petrified Forest National Park (60 miles east/northeast) “El Desierto Pintado,” so named by explorer Francisco Vasquez de Coronado in 1540, actually begins at the east end of the Grand Canyon and stretches 150 miles into the Petrified Forest. Although much of the desert is in remote areas of the Navajo Nation, it is still accessible enough for visitors to admire its sweeping vistas of “moonscape mounds” formed of purple, red and gray segments. The forest is a geologic treasure chest of trees that have turned to stone, fossilized bones of 200 million-year-old animals, and abundant Indian ruins and petroglyphs. Warning: removal of natural objects can lead to fines, jail time or both. 928.524.6228, www.nps. gov/pefo/. • Holbrook (32 miles southeast) A one-time gunslingers’ and cattle rustlers’ town deemed “too tough for women and churches,” Navajo County’s seat (pop. 5,000) boasts, of course, Bucket of Blood Street and the same-named Saloon (now a boarded-up warehouse), as well as one of the few historic Wigwam Motels still in existence. 928.524.6225, www.holbrookaz.gov. • Walnut Canyon National Monument (50 miles west) More than 300 small cliff dwellings, sheltered in caves, were home to
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native inhabitants more than 800 years ago who farmed, hunted, gathered and traded. The ruins still stand, protected against the elements, and are joined by a visitor center, hiking trails and picnic area. 928.526.3367, www.nps.gov/waca/. • Canyon de Chelly National Monument, Chinle (130 miles northeast) At the base of sheer red cliffs and in canyon wall caves are ruins of Indigenous villages built between 350 and 1300 on this land where the Navajo continue to live and farm today. 928.674.5500, www.nps.gov/ cach/index.htm. AND THE GRAND DADDY OF THEM ALL…. • The Grand Canyon (130 miles west) It borders on sacrilege, probably, for an Arizona travel story not to include this finest of all natural sights to see, long ago carved out of the desert by 277 miles of the Colorado River and shaped over millions of years. It is open for visitors, lodging and camping, but consult the regularly updated website for updates and possible closures. 928.638.7888, www.nps.gov/grca. v
T R AV E L N OT E S GETTING THERE By car, Winslow is 585 miles from Ventura, 200 miles from Phoenix and 60 miles from Flagstaff. The Winslow-Lindbergh Regional Airport long ago ceased commercial airline operations; the nearest commercial airports are Flagstaff Pulliam (one hour west) and Phoenix Sky Harbor International (three hours southwest). Grand Canyon Airlines offers sightseeing and charter services via Page Municipal and Grand Canyon National Park Airports. For Amtrak train service on the Southwest Chief (L.A.-Chicago) to and from Winslow, visit www.amtrak. com/southwest-chief-train. LODGING The La Posada Hotel — 303 E. 2nd St., 928.289.4366 — and nearly a dozen more inns, both independent and chain-connected, are rated good to excellent on various travel websites. More information (including hotel and restaurant possibilities) is available through the Winslow Visitor Center and Chamber of Commerce, 928.289.2434, winslowarizona.org. It is advisable to contact the respective locations ahead of time for prices, hours of operation, accessibility via foot or car, and health protocols.
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SEASIDE SAFA T Teeming with flora and fauna, Monterey Bay and Elkhorn Slough are meccas for marine life and wildlife lovers alike. STORY AND PHOTOS BY CHUCK GRAHAM
he deep submarine canyon was boiling with marine life. Massive bait balls of fish were swirling about, herded by several hungry humpback whales. Pacific white-sided dolphins were sidling up nearby, piggybacking on the humpback’s aquatic pursuit. A few California sea lions weaved their way into the mix, opportunistic and porpoising between all the cetaceans in Monterey Bay. Anticipation mounted long before we reached Monterey Bay for a whale watching excursion out to one of the most studied places on the planet in terms of oceanography and marine biology. Monterey Bay teems with marine mammals and throngs of seabirds. The massive trench is also known as “the Grand Canyon of the West Coast,” with good reason: It is a mile deep and 300 miles long. Traveling with my girlfriend, Holly Lohuis, a naturalist and marine biologist, it’s always fun being on the boats with her and learning from someone who has devoted a big chunk of her life to marine conservation. PELAGIC PREDATORS A pod of orcas patrol the waters near Monterey Bay.
SWEET SIBLINGS in Topa Topa shirt and dress. 18
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After we booked two whale watching trips, we were both keeping tabs on the daily sightings leading up to our trips. It seemed like every day was the next best day for sightings. What would ours be like? Not only do folks want to see the amazing animals that flock to Monterey as if it were a pelagic Mecca, but the weather is another factor. Fog and northwesterly winds can put a damper on a trip, making it challenging to spot marine mammals. The reports we tracked before our trips were delivering heaps of orca activity towards the tail end of the northbound gray whale migration. One report in particular spoke of orca predation on a gray whale calf with as many as 15 orcas feeding on the carcass.
I N STA N T G R AT I F I C AT I O N As our first trip began, we weren’t out of the harbor yet before we saw
ADVENTURE
ARI SPLENDOR IN THE GRASS Seagrass waves gracefully beneath kayakers paddling through the calm, glassy waters of Elkhorn Slough.
a southern sea otter feeding on a crab, lying on its back and using its chest like a kitchen table. The marine mammal with the densest fur in the animal kingdom finished off the crab within seconds. Just beyond the jetties we were greeted by a small pod of Risso’s dolphins appearing just off our starboard bow. They are capable of diving 1,000 feet down and hold their breath for 30 minutes. Predominantly deep-water marine mammals, it was surprising seeing them so close to the harbor, but wildlife is on its schedule. They’re unpredictable. Holly and I posted up on the bow of the boat. We didn’t want to miss anything. It was clear with winds light and variable. The weather was favorable for spotting big splashes on the distant horizon for some pelagic megafauna. That first trip we were not disappointed. Orcas are always at the top of our list whether in Monterey Bay or the Santa Barbara Channel, but Monterey Bay possesses a higher sighting rate when it comes to experiencing these apex predators. They are at the very top of the food chain, and their intelligence is on a whole other level, and their closely knit pods exhibit complex family dynamics. Seeing them in the past has always been a thrill,
and we were in luck on our first trip. There were six orcas in the pod and they were moving fast. Because they are a keystone species, everything steers clear of them except seabirds that know that, eventually, the orcas will locate prey, and the seabirds are there to clean things up. Nothing goes to waste out here. We stayed with the orcas for a good portion of our three-hour trip. It was hard to leave them knowing they would eventually pursue something. However, all the whale watching companies work together out there, so every company shares information and allows any boats in the vicinity to enjoy the wildlife.
B U SY O N T H E B AY Our pelagic safari was just getting started, however. Further out into Monterey Bay, it was only a matter of time before cetaceans appeared again. It was a tail fluke and several spouts that drew the captain’s attention. Clearly visible from the bow of the boat, humpback whales are the most Continued on page 21
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HARBOR SEALS laze in a sunny mudflat (above) and glide in the serene waters (right) of Elkhorn Slough, a tidal marsh that supports hundreds of plant and animal species.
fun to watch of the baleen whales. These ones were busy, too. In hot pursuit of massive bait balls of sardines, they were pushing their prey hard. Everyone on the boat was on their feet anticipating what might happen next. There would be quiet, and then suddenly the baitfish would begin jumping out of the water, followed by the lunge-feeding humpbacks. Their colossal mouths were fully agape, consuming as much food as possible, baitfish filtering through bristles of baleen. Humpbacks are well equipped for action. Adults weigh in at 40 tons, or about the size of five African elephants. They’re not the biggest whales (that title belongs to the blue whale) but humpbacks hold the distinction for the largest pectoral flippers, reaching 15 feet in length. This helps them swim fast and make tight arcs underwater as they chase down their prey. There were lots of seabirds flying overhead and sitting in the water just outside where the humpbacks were feeding. The most impressive was a lone black-footed albatross soaring and swooping above the whales. On the fringe were sooty shearwaters, northern fulmars and common murres. We could’ve easily stayed out on the boat all day. With that much wildlife around, three hours went by quick. But we were appreciative of the amazing web of life constantly teeming throughout Monterey Bay.
S AV O R I N G T H E S LO U G H The bait ball of sardines moving with the ebb and flow of an incoming morning tide had attracted a decent chunk of Elkhorn Slough inhabContinued on page 22
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itants toward the frenzied food source. We sat motionless in our kayaks and watched from inside the second largest tract of tidal salt marsh in California outside the San Francisco Bay. This 7-mile-long teeming wetland of mudflats, serpentine channels, coastal prairies and oak woodlands provides much-needed habitat for hundreds of species of plants and animals, including more than 340 species of birds. It has been designated as a protected site under the Ramsar Convention, a UNESCO treaty concerned with the conservation of wetlands, since 2018. Launching off the beach inside Moss Landing was arguably the easiest launch I’ve ever experienced, and Elkhorn Slough has always been one of the best places to photograph wildlife from a kayak. SOUTHERN SEA OTTERS are a common sight in the waters of Monterey Bay and Elkhorn Slough. The calm, glassy waters of the main channel rippled with baitfish sending ravenous squadrons of double-crested cormotake us where it wanted, our kayaks floating above the fray as we followed the food source. Harbor seals maneuvered in, sidling along our kayaks as rants running on the surface of the water. Below the surface, we could swarms of western sandpipers, the biggest concentrations of these shorealso see them, snake-like, swimming and chasing the fish. From above, birds I’ve ever seen, buzzed by us, moving from mudflat to mudflat. we followed the grating calls from aerodynamic Caspian terns as they But they weren’t the only wildlife making an appearance. Columns strategically soared and hovered above before diving into the shallow waof great egrets and great blue herons waded in the shallows, also joining ters, mostly successful while gobbling baitfish on the fly. They are North the feeding frenzy of birdlife and blubbery harbor seals. The only animal America’s largest tern species. seemingly disinterested was a lazy raft of southern sea otters, some with 8 As the bait ball shifted with the tide, Holly and I let the incoming tide PICTURE PERFECT With its abundant wildlife and picturesque waterfront, Monterey attracts millions of visitors every year.
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their padded paws covering their eyes during a mid-morning snooze. Elkhorn Slough possesses a dizzying number of species, with 700 different types of flora and fauna and the highest concentration of southern sea otters in California. The serpentine-like channels offer great habitat for otters, seals and sea lions, especially when pupping.
C L A S S RO O M O N T H E WAT E R Mixed in with this flora and fauna are kayakers and standup paddlers, who use Elkhorn Slough for recreation. It is a terrific place to paddle, observe and photograph so many species in their natural habitat. The 45,000 acres of wetlands also attract researchers studying everything from sea level rise to wildlife and plants to water quality. Some do both. We saw a kayaker with a mounted iPad, an education specialist for the National Marine Sanctuary. He said he was about 30 seconds away from delivering a live Zoom from the field for sixth graders, a great way for kids to experience and learn from California’s second largest remaining wetland. Elkhorn Slough represents some of the last 10 percent of remaining wetlands in the Golden State — a number I’ve heard many times over, but am alarmed by every time I hear it again. It forces me to reflect on the Carpinteria Marsh Reserve and Nature Park. It was once slated to become another marina lined with condominiums. And I’m thankful for the city of Carpinteria, the University of California Reserve System and nonprofits coming together to right the ship and preserve what is a mere postage stamp of what once was. The inside of Elkhorn Slough is seemingly an aquatic utopia of birdlife and marine mammals easily coexisting, the ebb and flow of the tide dictating their time spent on mudflats and the soft hues of soggy pickleweed. There were common loons swimming alongside sea otters. There were large flocks of western sandpipers, Caspian terns and
double-crested cormorants sharing secluded mudflats while basking in the morning sun. Snowy egrets stood watch from the pickleweed overlooking nursing harbor seals as we floated by in our kayaks, the yelps of needy pups the only sounds we heard as northwest winds increased by early afternoon. Elkhorn Slough and its many inhabitants are surrounded by agriculture, a power plant, a dairy farm, a bustling harbor and a busy Highway 1, proving that, when allowed, wildlife can still thrive under the right circumstances. v
STAYING AFLOAT Home to numerous birds and marine mammals, Elkhorn Slough has been known to host the occasonal jellyfish, coaxed there by the tide or possibly drawn by its rich feeding grounds.
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MOUNTAINS OF Braving mud, mist and monkeys on a climb through Uganda’s Rwenzori Mountains.
I
STORY AND PHOTOS BY CHUCK GRAHAM
t was raining monkeys. To be specific, it was raining colobus monkeys. They were literally flinging themselves through the air, 50 to 70 feet, from tree to tree, leaves drifting downward on top of us. Between the cascading river and the colobus thrashing through the treetops, the rainforest of the Rwenzori Mountains in Uganda was nearly deafening. That was just one of the many unexpected moments experienced while trekking through knee-deep muddy bogs between 10,000 and 14,000 feet. The entire Rwenzori Mountain Range is full of unknowns while climbing up to Mount Stanley and its highest summit: Margherita Peak which, at 16,763 feet, is the highest summit in Uganda.
I had good luck convincing friends Craig Fernandez, 52, and Danny Trudeau, 65, to accompany me on my 15th trip to Africa, the Rwenzoris having played on my mind since February 1990. That’s when the film Mountains of the Moon was released. Starring Patrick Bergin as Richard Francis Burton and Iain Glen as John Hanning Speke, the two English explorers were on an unforgettable quest in 1857-58 to discover the true source of the Nile River. It was a brutal journey full of hardships and eventually the two men became bitter rivals. The Rwenzori Mountains were mentioned on multiple occasions in the writings of Burton and Speke. After several more difficult expeditions
PEAK PERFORMANCE Margherita Peak (elev. 16,763 feet) is the highest summit on Mount Stanley in the Rwenzori Range of Uganda.
SWEET SIBLINGS in Topa Topa shirt and dress. 24
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COVER STORY
F THE MOON
COLD FEET It’s a snowy climb up the Margherita Glacier to reach the top of Mount Stanley.
into Africa’s central interior, it was Speke who was credited with the discovery of Lake Victoria, the source of the Nile...although a small portion of the Rwenzori also feeds the Nile. Today the mountain range is known as a World Heritage Site. According to Wikipedia, the first successful ascent of Margherita Peak was in 1906, led by Italian Luigi Amedeo and (presumably) why the Margherita Peak was named after Queen Margherita of Italy.
A LO N G T H E B OA R D WA L K Rwenzori Trekking sternly warned potential trekkers and climbers that the terrain was steep and difficult, with lots of muddy bogs. After summiting Mount Kilimanjaro twice (1996, 2009) and Mount Kenya once (1997), it became clear to me while slogging it out in gooey mud for a week that the Rwenzori required more effort to reach its tallest
peak. In fact, the Rwenzori possesses six of Africa’s 10 highest summits, with Margherita Peak being the third highest in all of Africa. From the moment we left the Trekkers Hostel in Kilembe at 4,785 feet with our guides Samuel and Rogers, we began our ascent through the incredible vegetation zones for which the Rwenzori Range is known. The walk leading into the rainforest was brimming with smiling, laughing and playful Ugandan kids, my digital camera being all the rage while playing back all those beautiful, curious smiles. Beyond the rainforest, those thick stocks of bamboo sure came in handy while ascending the narrow spines of so many steep ridges. They provided sturdy handholds when the ground became steep, muddy and slippery. It felt like we were trekking the back of some type of massive sea serpent, its rolling spine never ceasing until we reached our first overnight at Kalalama Camp at 10,276 feet. Most impressive during this time were all the mountain guides and Continued on page 27
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porters lugging up huge packs and bags of food and other essentials to all the camps hidden in the vegetation zones spread throughout the higher elevations. Not one of the porters were without a smile or experienced a misstep on the ever-changing landscape, always offering a hello even when the terrain was at its most challenging. The guides and porters also doubled as trail crews, taking their turns to maintain some sort of semblance of order on the trails. They’ve done a superlative job of constructing long sections of boardwalks above some of the worst of the bogs, but also building ladders up and down some of the exposed ascents and down-climbs. Trekking across the moorlands was stunning though. Giant lobelias, forests of giant groundsel trees, endless mounds of tussock grasses, Saint John’s Wort and other vegetation dominated the mountainscapes. The elevated boardwalks themselves limited any impact on the unique vegetation, while the raised platforms also enhanced our ability to soak in the grandiose landscape.
B A M WA N J A R A PA S S
BLUE MONKEY seen at 7,000 feet. Above 13,000 feet we began to experience several alpine lakes hidden in the Rwenzori. The first one we came across was Bugata Lake. It seemed every lake was an excellent place to spot some of the range’s impressive birdlife. More than 1,000 species of birds ing feathers made it stand out against the vegetation, especially around the have been documented in Uganda, representing over half of the species giant lobelias where they enjoyed the plants’ sweet nectar. found on the entire continent. One of those was the brilliant scarlet-tufted From there we soaked in the epic views from Bamwanjara Pass at malachite sunbird, an endemic bird to the high-altitude zones of East and 14,685 feet. It was exceptionally impressive because it gave us the first real Central Africa. Its curved beak, forked and elongated tail and shimmerlook across a deep valley toward the high peaks of Margherita, Mount Stanley, Mount Baker and Mount Speke, all with swirling plumes of wispy clouds ascending skyward. Then it was a slow, muddy, 2,000-foot descent before finishing down a series of well-placed ladders. From there, it was another muddy 500-foot ascent to Hunwicks Camp at 13,114 feet.
I N TO T H E M I ST Hunswick Camp was situated on a convenient plateau overlooking a boardwalk splitting two craggy peaks with three lakes, the trail hugging the right side of the lakes. The giant groundsel forests were tall and clustered leading to Margherita Camp. It was our shortest day of trekking, and we were grateful for the opportunity to rest before the ascent to the summit. To reach the top of Margherita, we were up at 1 a.m. Headlamps burning bright, Craig, Danny and I placed one foot in front of the other. I’ve always theorized that it’s better to ascend Continued on page 16
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NOT BOGGED DOWN Boardwalks protect Rwenzori vegetation and make it easier to cross the beautiful but boggy sections of the moorlands.
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LOOKING UP Gazing toward majestic, snow-capped Mount Stanley from the relatively milder Bamwanjara Pass. in the dark because you can’t see how far you need to go, and the darkness doesn’t reveal how difficult the terrain might become. I relayed my theory to Danny and Craig, and they bought into it with a subtle nod or a reluctant thumbs up as we traversed our first glacier, our breaths wafting above our headlamps. All the other climbing teams were behind us when visibility deteriorated to less than 25 feet. Once we reached the overhanging portion of Margherita glacier, visibility decreased. From there it was a snow-covered, rocky scramble to the summit. If it had been clear, we would’ve been able to look across to Bamwanjara Pass to where we stood two days prior. Instead, we settled for milling around a frigid summit at 16,763 feet.
A N A N I M A L I ST I C DESCENT
Sometimes it’s tougher descending. It’s more taxing on the joints than catching your breath at altitude. A nice, long scree slope would’ve been more enjoyable. That was clearly the case in the Rwenzori. Many of those descents were in slippery mud. We had been lucky up to that point not to endure any rain. However, once we left Hunswick Camp, we were in a lot of mud, steady rain and intermittent snow. We were on a different route and two days away from the trekking hostel. We trekked up and over Oliver’s Pass Continued on page 32
FEATHERS AND SCALES A three-horned chameleon and scarlet-tufted malachite sunbird (inset) are among the impressive wildlife that call the Rwenzori Mountains home.
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KALALAMA CAMP at 10,276 feet provides a rustic respite above the rainforest but below the alpine regions of the Rwenzori.
at around 15,000 feet. From Hunswick it was almost a 2,000-foot ascent to the top of the pass, the mud delivering a lasting impression to each plateau, through narrow gorges where giant groundsels soaked in all the moisture. They acted as natural water catchments and I occasionally sipped from those smooth, waxy leaves. While we made the arduous descent, we experienced some nice diversions. Once back in the rainforest, the head porter, Paul, and I veered off briefly on an alternate route for more birding. That produced a cinnamon-chested bee-eater and another sunbird, this one a red-chested sunbird. Then, without any warning, Paul spotted in dense vegetation a pair of blue monkeys tight roping with utter aplomb along a narrow, elongated branch. Once they spotted us, they made a point of creating a lot of noise either by their own vocalizations or thrashing through the rainforest. Danny, Craig and I did make a special request to the guides and all the porters. We wanted to see a chameleon, which initially felt like spotting a dime at the bottom of the ocean, but they came through in a pinch.
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Not just one, but two different species of chameleons within a few feet of each other. A three-horned chameleon scaled the sleeve of Rogers. The larger species was a giant chameleon. Away from vegetation it flashed at least six different colors. Once back in the rainforest it blended in only like a chameleon can, vanishing in the rainforest of the Rwenzori, brimming in natural wonders from its highest peaks to its smallest inhabitants. v
Rwenzori Mountains and National Park Plot 7 Kira Road P.O. Box 3530, Kampala, Uganda (+256) 312 355000 info@wildlife.go.ug ugandawildlife.org/tours/rwenzori-mountains/ Rwenzori Trekking Services 6a Senkaaba Lane, Kampala, Uganda (+256) 772 662842 rwenzoritrekking.com
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HOLA AND OL I Celebrating old friends and new discoveries in Barcelona. BY LESLIE A. WESTBROOK
arrived at 8:30 pm from London to the newly renamed Barcelona-El Prat Airport right on schedule for dinner – Spanish diners are famous for eating late. After passing through customs, meeting the COVID health paperwork checkers and eyeing a doctor in a white coat questioning another traveler, I was excited to revisit Barcelona for the third or fourth time to see friends who are like family.
I braved traveling in the time of COVID in late October/early November of 2021 to visit my goddaughter, who had recently lost her mother to the terrible plague. I needed to hug her – and I could use a hug myself after more than a year and a half of monastic life. I was feeling fine, thankfully, after having taken two lateral flow tests a few days earlier in London, both of which came back negative.
PA E L L A O N THE HILL A dear friend, Jordi Pujol of Fresh Sound Records, met me at the arrivals gate (who does that anymore?) to take me to dinner, Catalan time! A narrated tour of the city by car included a climb up to historic Montjuïc. One of the city’s most famous destinations, this hill — Montjuïc is a medieval Latin/Catalan word that translates to “Jewish Mountain” — overlooks Barcelona and is considered its birthplace. Today the hill is home to a 17th century fortress (Castle of Montjuïc), the Palau Nacional (site of the 1929 World’s Fair, now the National Art Museum of Catalonia), the splendid Magic Fountain, a botanical garden and other landmarks. One can also access the top of the hill via a transport network that includes the Funicular de Montjuïc and the Montjuïc Cable Car, a trip which promises an extraordinary bird’s-eye view. For this outing, however, our destination was Martinez, a stellar restaurant with amazing views of the harbor and city that is frequented by locals for special occasions. We found the cuisine to be equally riveting. A video I shot on my
SANTA MARIA DEL PI, a 15th-century Gothic church. Photo by Leslie Westbrook 34
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TRAVEL
LÉ!
SUNSET at Barceloneta Beach. Photo by Leslie Westbrook
iPhone of the sizzling, garlicky gamberini (large shrimp) on my Facebook page garnered a plethora of thumbs up. Jordi and I enjoyed a lovely seafood paella — Spain’s famous rice dish best shared with friends — and a fantastic bottle of Camino del Puerto, an apropos white wine for Halloween weekend with its skull label. We topped off the late evening dinner and energetic visit with an after-dinner stroll amidst the ancient olive trees and night time lights of the city sparkling below.
C ATA LO N I A C H I C Jordi dropped me off around midnight at my hotel, the Almanac, where I was warmly welcomed to the stunningly modern five-star hotel set in the heart of the city and located just a few blocks from lively Plaça de Catalunya and luxurious Passeig de Gràcia, famed for its upscale shops (rumored to be the most expensive street in all of Spain) and fine architecture. In addition to the thoughtful staff (always a huge plus in my book), the highlight of this newly launched hotel are the rooms with window
boxes that feature a white settee tucked in for amazing views — but not if you suffer from vertigo! I wondered if those on the street below could see into the rooms (they can, so keep those motorized shades drawn if you don’t want to be on display). Almanac also boasts a chic rooftop bar with a small pool (more for dips than laps), indoor and outdoor seating, cocktails, nibbles and the ubiquitous disco drone in the background. “If the concept works here in Barcelona, it will work in Vienna where the company is headquartered and other locations,” noted charming Andreas Korakas, the manager on duty. Korakas swiftly assisted me with booking an onsite COVOD-19 test, which was infinitely more convenient on a Sunday when pharmacies were closed.
T H E J OY O F D I S C O V E RY I had hoped to re-visit Mercado de La Boqueria, the city’s famous and popular food market. But being November 1, it was the holiday of All Saint’s Day, and La Boqueria was closed. With no particular plans or destination,
Continued on page 24
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Founded 1992
CATALONIAN CAPITAL Beautiful, vibrant Barcelona is the largest city and capital of Spain’s autonomous community of Catalonia and a major cultural hub on the Mediterranean Sea.
I decided to just wander and see where the wind blew me on the lovely warm and sunny day. I walked to Las Ramblas, Barcelona’s popular and bustling thoroughfare, and had lunch for breakfast (a lovely, warm sandwich of cheese and cured meat on bread smeared with tomato) and dessert for lunch (the gelaterias had been calling my name). From there, I strolled Barcelona’s wide boulevards and winding passages, people watching and taking photos along the way. I bought some delicious Torrons Vicens nougat candy bars (the company has been in business since 1775) from a kiosk, to take home for gifts. On my last day I joined my goddaughter and her husband for a lovely, slow Sunday lunch of calamares (fried squid), “rustica” corn on the cob with coti cheese, rice with shrimp and local beers, of course. We dined seaside at Gallito, an open-air restaurant at the base of the “W” Hotel, and followed up our meal with more leisurely strolling, this time along the Mediterranean Sea. I had noticed a lodging called “Jazz Hotel” on my map, and decided to take a peek in. The front desk clerk told me it was named that because they used to feature jazz on the rooftop terrace, but not since the pandemic. “Hopefully next summer it will resume,” she said. Continued on page 39
VIEW FROM THE TOP The glorious Azimuth Rooftop Bar at the Almanac Barcelona Hotel promises phenomenal views. Photo courtesy Romane Ouadghiri/Almanac Barcelona MAY 2022
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Before I knew it, my too-short time in Barcelona was coming to an end. I was grateful for the opportunity to revisit a city I adore and could explore over and over again, thanks to its plethora of fine art museums, world famous architecture ranging from Gaudi to Mies van der Rohe (who designed the modernist German Pavilion for the 1929 World’s Fair) and, of course, the fantastic cuisine — tapas to paella — and great wines. But, more importantly, I got to hug and spend a wee bit of time with people I love. After all, isn’t that the best reason of all to travel? LEFT The author with her goddaaughter at the waterfront. RIGHT Paella with shrimp at restaurant Martinez. Photos by Leslie Westbrook
T R AV E L N OT E S Getting there
Hotels Majestic, Miramar If you prefer historic elegance, consider these hermosa damas!
I flew British Airways from London Heathrow’s Terminal 5, a flight just under two hours, after a weeklong stopover in the UK. Gratis bag of chips and mineral water staved off hunger pangs. Iberia has 12-13 hour nonstops LAX-BCN.
Where to stay:
From historic, elegant spots to snazzy modern lodgings, Barcelona has a great array of places to slumber in varying price ranges as well as some fantastic Airbnb choices like a penthouse I almost booked that had killer views of a Gaudi building.
Almanac Barcelona Where I stayed on this trip. Conveniently located, sleek and modern, this five-star hotel includes a nice restaurant and rooftop bar, wellness center with steam and sauna and small workout facility. Terrific views and very quiet with little street noise. The hearty breakfast buffet includes omelets, pancakes, avocado toast with poached eggs and freshly squeezed smoothies with ingredients of your choice. For about $50, enjoy the pleasant prix fixe three-course lunch, which includes a glass of wine and tea/coffee. Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes, 619, 621, 08007 Barcelona, www.almanachotels.com/barcelona
Hotel Majestic, Passeig de Gràcia 68, 08007 Barcelona, majestichotelgroup.com/en/barcelona/hotel-majestic Hotel Miramar, Plaça de Carlos Ibáñez, 3, 08038 Barcelona, hotelmiramarbarcelona.com/en
Where to eat Martinez Hard to beat the stellar location, fantastic views of the city and terrific food and wine list. If asked what I wanted for my last supper on death row, I’d probably beg for the garlicky sizzling shrimp. Look for the big red neon signs “M” and “Martinez” up on the hill in Parc de Montjuïc. Carretera de Miramar, 38, 08038, Barcelona, martinezbarcelona.com
Paco Meralgo Popular and lively tapas and wine restaurant – be sure to book in advance. Carrer de Muntaner, 171, 08036 Barcelona, restaurantpacomeralgo.com/ca/el-restaurant/
Other stuff
Hotel Pulitzer
Blue Sounds CD and vinyl record store
Do you like your hotels chic and boutique? If so, try the charming Hotel Pulitzer, just a short three-minute walk from Plaça de Catalunya
If you love jazz, be sure to visit this gem of a shop that is the home base for award-winning Fresh Sounds Records label, owned by my good buddy Jordi. Stop in, browse, say hola…and be sure to tell them Leslie Westbrook sent you! Jordi or his store manager, Esteban, can steer you to the best live jazz in town, too!
Carrer de Bergara, 8, 08002 Barcelona, www.hotelpulitzer.es/en/
Hotel Arts Fifteen years ago, when I first traveled to Barcelona for a wedding, I checked into this striking hotel located in the harbor/seaside section of Barcelona. It’s known for the Frank Gehry fish sculpture, designed for the 1992 Barcelona Olympics, that changes color and appearance as the sun moves across the sky. Marina, 19-21, 08005 Barcelona, www.hotelartsbarcelona.com/en/
Carrer de Benet Mateu, 26, 08034 Barcelona, www.freshsoundrecords.com
Barcelona Tourism Bureau For general information on visiting Barcelona and its myriad sites, museums and tourist offerings, go to www.barcelonaturisme.com/wv3/en/. Don’t miss the “10 Reasons to Visit Barcelona this spring” list!
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READY TO BUY?! CONSIDERING SELLING???
8 CALLE CATALUNA, CAMARILLO 4 BEDROOMS. 3 BATHROOMS. 2369 SQUARE FEET.
VENTANA HOME SALES INDEX
+2%
BETTER CALL BLAKE! BLAKE MASHBURN, 805-368-0202.
Your Home Advertised Here!
CALL NOW! HONESTY • INTEGRITY • COMMITMENT • RESULTS
+13.7%
MARCH 2021 VS. 2022
CAMARILLO
# HOMES SOLD AVERAGE PRICE
2021
2022
132 $846,200
91 $986,400
13 $630,800
11 $709,100
FILLMORE
# HOMES SOLD AVERAGE PRICE
# HOMES SOLD AVERAGE PRICE
59 $961,900
57 $1,174,200
49 $986,700
42 $1,335,600
805-856-9350
# HOMES SOLD AVERAGE PRICE
DRE# 01065624
Everest
40
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All info deemed accurate, but not guaranteed. If your property is currently listed for sale, please disregard our active marketing.
| MAY 2022
805-836-4321
www.BuyandSellwithZell.com DRE# 01995643
23 $471,300
22 $550,900
# HOMES SOLD AVERAGE PRICE
17 $655,600
18 $712,600
# HOMES SOLD AVERAGE PRICE
163 $752,300
122 $906,200
# HOMES SOLD AVERAGE PRICE
112 $1,116,500
80 $1,201,600
112 $889,000
94 $970,500
815
679
VENTURA
34 $1,180,900
25 $1,629,000
101 $756,300
117 $904,700
OXNARD
www.BlakeMashburn.com
2022
THOUSAND OAKS
OJAI
# HOMES SOLD AVERAGE PRICE
# HOMES SOLD AVERAGE PRICE
2021
SIMI VALLEY
NEWBURY PARK
# HOMES SOLD AVERAGE PRICE
PORT HUENEME
SANTA PAULA
MOORPARK
CALL TODAY!
AVERAGE PRICE
➡
HOMES SOLD
➡
Beautiful view home in ‘The Courtyards’ at Camarillo Springs, a privately gated, golf course area, planned community! Upgrade highlights include a nicely updated gourmet kitchen, gleaming hard-wood Cherry flooring in the living room, with bold n’ beautiful Travertine stone tile in the kitchen, baths & family room! Custom window treatments, recessed lighting, glass-sliders & more! The spacious great-room is wired for sound, boasts a 2nd fireplace and overlooks the private, low maintenance rear yard & patio. The chef’s kitchen features a large center-island, newer cabinets, quartz counters, glass-tile decorative backsplash and stainless-steel appliances! Upstairs you’ll discover the large, primary bedroom with gorgeous mountain & golf course views and which features an en-suite bathroom with soaking tub, separate shower, newer privacy-glass window & a large walk-in closet! The junior-suite boasts beautiful views with an adjacent bathroom! The two secondary bedrooms share a fun Jack n’ Jill bathroom, which the kids will absolutely love! There’s also a convenient upstairs laundry room! And the beautifully landscaped, rear yard & patio of Flagstone and ground-cover makes for low maintenance and the perfect spot for outdoor entertaining! Tropical paradise fruit trees include lemon, lime, apple, orange & kumquat! The Courtyards community offers low HOA fees with NO MELLO ROOS FEES and includes a Club House, Private Gym, Play Yard, Patio Areas with BBQ, Security Gated, Guest Parking and Gated Pool & Spa! All this and but a stone’s throw to the Golf Course, with convenient shopping, walking trails & easy freeway access to Los Angeles to the South and to the Ventura’s beaches to the North. Simply put, the perfect place to call home! HURRY! Priced to sell FAST! Truly a rare offering at $950,000.
# HOMES SOLD AVERAGE PRICE TOTAL # OF SALES
Ventana Monthly Home Sales Index is presented each month as part of the real estate section. The figures are sourced from sales reported to MLS for the period of 03/01-03/31/22. Ventana Monthly Home Sales Index © Ventana Monthly, 2022.
SHORT LIST SHANA MABARI: OCEANS
Through May 23 | Ojai In 2020, Los Angeles-based contemporary Light and Space artist Shana Mabari became the first artist-in-residence on a maritime mission led by the non-profit Sea Shepherd Global, the world’s leading direct-action ocean conservation organization. For five days, Mabari sailed their vessel M/Y Bob Barker off the west coast of Africa, a clandestine operation part of Sea Shepherd Global’s ongoing efforts to combat illegal, unreported, and unregulated fishing in the waters of Benin. It resulted in the arrest of a trawler illegally fishing in protected waters just outside an important ecological reserve. Work inspired by this journey comprises her upcoming solo exhibition “Oceans.” Porch Gallery, 310 East Matilija Street, Ojai, 805.620.7589, porchgalleryojai.com.
U PLURIBUS UNUM: OUT OF MANY, ONE
Through May 28 | Camarillo Many voices. Many faces. Many stories. One community. One country. One world. One humanity. This exhibition explores our differences and our commonalities. Through Richard Barnett’s large oil paintings of crowds depicting up to 500 people in one work to Daggi Wallace’s small intimate pastel portraits and Kerstin Zilm’s prose and collected voices, the viewer is invited to contemplate their own place among each other and in this world. All three artists embody our differences with their mediums, styles and techniques yet speak to the common ground we all share, our emotions of fear and anger, joy and love, frustration and rage. The audience has a chance to add their own voice here by helping to write a community poem or creating a protest slogan for what matters most to them. 2222 East Ventura Boulevard, Camarillo, 805.383.1368, studiochannelislands. org.
INSIDE OUTSIDE: OBJECTS OF MY ATTENTION
Through June 29 | Ojai Caroline Allen presents work made during the pandemic that took her attention away from the news, the isolation and loneliness during the shutdowns. Sheltering in place meant painting the inside of her house, her garden and driveway, and later the deserted campgrounds of Lake Casitas and Ojai Land Conservancy Meadows. “I grew so comfortable in these natural sanctuaries, they became second homes . . . I was painting inside outside.” See this colorful works at Ojai Art Center, 113 South Montgomery Street, Ojai, 805.646.0117, www.ojaiartcenter.org.
GEOMORPHIC: A LIVING EARTH
Through Sept. 11 | Santa Paula Having found her true voice in abstract art, Ventura artist Kay Zetlmaier presents her newest works in oil and cold wax, inspired by the natural world and humanity’s place in it. Also on display through July 10 is an exhibition featuring three decades of work from two artists: Lynn Hanson, whose connection to the natural world informs all of her work, and her partner, John Robertson, a self-taught artist. Gallery tour on Saturday, May 28, 2-4 p.m. The museum is open Wednesdays-Saturdays, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. and Sundays, 12-4 p.m. Santa Paula Art Museum, 117 North 10th
Street, Santa Paula, 805.525.5554, www.santapaulaartmuseum.org.
THE ROOMMATE
U PLURIBUS UNUM: OUT OF MANY, ONE THROUGH MAY 28
May 20 – June 26 | Santa Paula The Odd Couple meets Breaking Bad meets Thelma and Louise in this wickedly funny dark comedy by Jen Silverman. With a recent divorce and her son living across the country, 50-something Midwesterner Sharon posts a listing for a roommate to fill the empty space of her Iowa home. Enter Brooklyn native Robyn, a fascinating woman who needs a place to hide and the chance to start over. When Sharon begins to uncover Robyn’s secrets, she taps into a deep-seated desire to abandon her comfort zone and live a life of danger and adventure. The Roommate cleverly navigates the rocky roads of change when you re-route your life and hilariously examines what happens when the wheels come off. $22-$24. 125 South Seventh Street, Santa Paula, 805.525.4645, www.santapaulatheatercenter.org.
PLEIN AIR PAINTING WITH MARGARET GARCIA
May 21 | Santa Cruz Island Enjoy a one-of-a-kind day trip to Santa Cruz Island to paint with acclaimed artist Margaret Garcia and naturalist Cliff Rodrigues! We will provide a box lunch from Peirano’s for attendees. All participants should bring their water bottles and art supplies. Participants are welcome to create with oil paints, watercolors, ink, pencils or take photographs. This event is limited to 30 adult attendees. $125 for members, $175 for nonmembers. Presented by the Museum of Ventura County; for more information, visit venturamuseum. org/event/plein-air-painting-at-santa-cruz-island-with-margaret-garcia/.
PLEIN AIR PAINTING WITH MARGARET GARCIA MAY 21
THE SEA PRINCESS
May 21 | Thousand Oaks From beautiful princess to mermaid, follow Ondine beneath the waves into a world of beauty, intrigue and danger. Can the underwater army free her or will the spell keep the Princess at the bottom of the sea forever? A Pacific Festival Ballet original ballet by composer, Eric Allaman and artistic director Kim Maselli. Two performances at the Fred Kavli Theatre on Saturday, May 21, at 2 p.m. and 7 p.m. $33$53. Bank of America Performing Arts Center, 2100 East Thousand Oaks Blvd., Thousand Oaks, 805.449.2787, bapacthousandoaks.com.
T HE SEA PRINCESS
MAY 21
KHAY FEST
May 22 | Ventura Surfer’s Point Live is back at the Ventura County Fairgrounds with an exciting kickoff to the late spring/early summer festival season! Country fans won’t want to miss KHAY Fest, a day to celebrate good friends, cold beer and great country music. Starring Josh Turner, Dylan Scott and introducing Tenille Arts. Grab your best dancing boots, don your cowboy hats and get ready for a great time! Presented by 100.7 KHAY, Bunnin Chevrolet of Santa Barbara and CBF Productions. Doors open at 10 a.m. Tickets $49-$899. Parking: $20-$40. Surfer’s Point Live at the Ventura County Fairgrounds, 10 West Harbor Blvd., Ventura, www.surferspointlive.com. MAY 2022
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Change homes, Change Lives D
OL TS
JUS
865 S. B St, Q1, Oxnard Listed at $339,000
Turnkey 5 bedroom, 3 bath 2300+ square foot home in one of Ventura’s favorite neighborhoods. Remodeled and updated throughout. City lights and ocean views from upstairs deck.
Turnkey Casa Marina Home in gated community. This charming 1 bedroom and 1 bathroom home is move in ready, with many recent upgrades. The home features an open concept floor plan with kitchen and breakfast bar open to the spacious living and dining areas. The remodeled and updated kitchen boasts beautiful quartz counter tops with white shaker style cabinets and new, stainless steel appliances including, refrigerator, microwave, gas range, and dishwasher. All new vinyl plank flooring throughout complements the space. Glass slider doors in living room and bedroom lead to private patio. The bathroom has been remodeled with new vanity, mirror, shower, and tub. Truly a great starter home, a must see!
145 N. Brookshire Ave, Ventura
OLD
S UST
J
Beautifully remodeled 4+3 with custom craftsman finishes throughout. Rear addition with master bedroom, ensuite bathroom, and living space. Gorgeous chef’s kitchen with WOLF professional range, Sub-Zero refrigerator, and oversized island.
Coastlands Real Estate Group is proud to give back to our community on behalf of every real estate transaction.
ROW
SC IN E
433 Westminster, Ventura
815 Flagstaff Court, Ventura
Four bedroom, two bath 1561 square foot home in one of Ventura’s favorite neighborhoods. Original owners. Cosmetic fixer – needs updating and TLC. Close to shopping, dining, and walking distance to Camino Real Park.
We are a local real estate group with a passion for giving back to our community. For every home bought or sold through us, we will “give back” a portion of our commission to one of our local partner charities who are helping to change the world!
Eric & Janet Baucom
DRE #01253080 / DRE #02045585
(805) 795-2001 • eric@coastlandsgroup.com • www.coastlandsgroup.com
Help Support The Humanitarian Effort For The People Of Ukraine The war in Ukraine has displaced millions of Ukrainian families who have fled to surrounding countries in order to escape the violence put upon them. Some of you have families, including some of our own, that have been directly affected by this horrible atrocity. With that said, the COMDEN|RIDGWAY|BAROSSO GROUP will donate a portion of each real estate sale, to be distributed to the World Central Kitchen. The WCK has been instrumental in feeding countless refugees from many different humanitarian events, including the support of the families that were displaced during the Thomas Fire.
VING OUR ER
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M M U NI T
Y EA
CO
RS OF
S
If you have been thinking now is the time to buy or sell a home, or if you would like a FREE Market Analysis on your home, please give us a call. We hope you will join us in this great cause!
CalDRE# 01060428
805.351.3500
*Some limitations may apply. Purchase or sale must close escrow by December 31, 2022.
Tina Comden 805-218-5926
Bob Ridgway 805-320-1811
Albert Barasso 805-901-3654
HOMES Ideal Homes ideal
865 S. B ST, Q1, OXNARD
Turnkey Casa Marina Home in gated community. This charming 1 bedroom and 1 bathroom home is move in ready, with many recent upgrades. The home features an open concept floor plan with kitchen and breakfast bar open to the spacious living and dining areas. The remodeled and updated kitchen boasts beautiful quartz counter tops with white shaker style cabinets and new, stainless steel appliances including, refrigerator, microwave, gas range, and dishwasher. All new
vinyl plank flooring throughout complements the space. Glass slider doors in living room and bedroom lead to private patio. Roomy bedroom has a large walk-in closet with builtin storage. The bathroom has been remodeled with new vanity, mirror, shower, and tub. Keyless door lock allows easy access. All appliances, including washer and dryer included in sale. No neighbor on one side, so only 1 wall is shared. This wonderful community offers a pool, spa, and underground parking. Located near Heritage
Square, you are close to restaurants, cafes, theater, shopping, coffee shops and more. HOA fees cover: pool, landscaping, water/trash/sewer and more. Truly a great starter home, a must see! Contact Eric & Janet Baucom 805.795-2001
BEDROOMS:
1
BATHROOMS:
1
SQ FT:
710
PRICE:
$339,000
9575 BALBOA STREET, VENTURA
COMING SOON: BEAUTIFULLY UPDATED EAST VENTURA HOME! This popular floorplan affords the opportunity to configure a lock-off w/full bath with separate access from the courtyard entryway
for possible rental income or multi-generational living flexibility! Presented by Laurie Rutledge & Derek Berthold, Coldwell Banker Realty. Visit LaurieRutledge.com today! 805.340.4854
Your Guide To Luxury Living Throughout Ventura County
2027 SHADOW CREEK DRIVE, VICTORIA ESTATES - OXNARD
Coming soon! Resort-style living in this golf course view home in Victoria Estates. Original owners have meticulously upgraded and maintained the executive-style property. Offering incredible views of the River Ridge Golf Club’s Victoria Lakes course, this delightful home offers a completely detached casita, which makes a terrific guest suite, in-law quarters, or home gym. The outdoor fireplace in the central courtyard between the home and casita is a striking feature - a conversation place to relax for fireside chats, coffee or happy hour. The gourmetstyle kitchen has features for any home chef, including a warming, proofing and roasting drawer and many newer appliances. A ‘butler’s pantry’ with wine fridge leads to the dining room, which is beside the formal living room. The kitchen and large family room with
fireplace overlook the pretty backyard and golf course. Downstairs, there is also a bedroom used as a home office, and a full bathroom. Up the beautiful ironwork staircase is a large loft, which could be an upstairs family room, the primary suite, and two additional bedrooms that share a bath. Sweeping views of the golf course can be seen from throughout the upstairs on the west side of the home. The detached casita has an en suite bath. Both the main residence and the casita have air-conditioning. Custom window treatments are present throughout the home. A large garage has room for two vehicles side-by-side, plus a third tandem area for an additional vehicle or storage. Victoria Estates is a guard-gated community with amenities including a sparkling pool and spa overlooking the golf course, a fitness center, and parks. Beautifully
maintained grounds make neighborhood walks a pleasure. The central location of the community is incredible for access to multiple golf courses and beaches, two harbors, retail, dining and entertainment at The Collection, and the hiking, art, music and culinary offerings of Ventura. All of these destinations are within 10 miles from the home (some as close as 2 miles). Move in today, entertain tonight! Contact Ariel Palmieri, Coldwell Banker Global Luxury 805-746-2070
BEDROOMS:
4
BATHROOMS:
3
DETACHED CASITA: 1+1 PRICE:
$1,410,000
8 CALLE CATALUNA, CAMARILLO
BEDROOMS:
4
BATHROOMS:
3
SQ FT:
1,854
PRICE:
$875,000
Beautiful view home in ‘The Courtyards’ at Camarillo Springs, a privately gated, golf course area, planned community! Upgrade highlights include a nicely updated gourmet kitchen, gleaming hard-wood Cherry flooring in the living room, with bold n’ beautiful Travertine stone tile in the kitchen, baths & family room! Custom window treatments, recessed lighting, glass-sliders & more! The spacious great-room is wired for sound, boasts a 2nd fireplace and overlooks the private, low maintenance rear yard & patio. The chef’s kitchen features a large center-island, newer cabinets, quartz counters, glass-tile decorative backsplash and stainless-steel appliances! Upstairs you’ll discover the large, primary bedroom with gorgeous mountain & golf course views and
which features an en-suite bathroom with soaking tub, separate shower, newer privacy-glass window & a large walk-in closet! The junior-suite boasts beautiful views with an adjacent bathroom! The two secondary bedrooms share a fun Jack n’ Jill bathroom, which the kids will absolutely love! There’s also a convenient upstairs laundry room! And the beautifully landscaped, rear yard & patio of Flagstone and ground-cover makes for low maintenance and the perfect spot for outdoor entertaining! Tropical paradise fruit trees include lemon, lime, apple, orange & kumquat! The Courtyards community offers low HOA fees with NO MELLO ROOS FEES and includes a Club House, Private Gym, Play Yard, Patio Areas with BBQ, Security Gated, Guest Parking and Gated Pool & Spa!
All this and but a stone’s throw to the Golf Course, with convenient shopping, walking trails & easy freeway access to Los Angeles to the South and to the Ventura’s beaches to the North. Simply put, the perfect place to call home! HURRY! Priced to sell FAST!
BETTER CALL BLAKE! BLAKE MASHBURN, 805-368-0202.
BEDROOMS:
4
BATHROOMS:
3
SQ FT:
2,369
PRICE:
$950,000
SHORT LIST LANDMARK STRING QUARTET
LANDMARK STRING QUARTET
MAY 22
May 22 | Ojai The Ojai Art Center will host the next installment of its famed concert series with a chamber music performance by the immensely talented Landmark String Quartet. Formerly known as the Sincopa String Quartet, this group of talented musicians includes Mark Bassett (cello), Steve Chiu (erhu), Mina Hong (violin), and Jennifer Wu (violin). Together they will bring to life Mozart’s String Quartet KV 458 in B-flat major and Mendelssohn’s String Quartet No. 6 in F minor. Sunday, May 22, at 3 p.m. $20. Ojai Art Center, 113 South Montgomery Street, Ojai, 805.640.1158, www.ojaiartcenter.org.
SHEN YUN WORLD TOUR 2022
SHEN YUN WORLD TOUR 2022
MAY 24-25
May 24-25 | Thousand Oaks Through the universal language of music and dance, Shen Yun weaves a wondrous tapestry of heavenly realms, ancient legends and heroic tales. Come be inspired and amazed by this artistic journey through 5,000 years of traditional Chinese culture. Its stunning beauty, purity and tremendous energy leave audiences uplifted and entertained. Children under the age of 4 are not permitted. Performances at the Fred Kavli Theatre on Tuesday, May 24, at 7:30 p.m. and Wednesday, May 25, at 2 p.m.and 7:30 p.m. $80-$165. Bank of America Performing Arts Center, 2100 East Thousand Oaks Blvd., Thousand Oaks, 805.449.2787, bapacthousandoaks.com.
NYCHILLHARMONIC
NYCHILLHARMONIC
MAY 27
May 27 | Ventura The NYChillharmonic is a female-fronted, Brooklyn-based, 18-piece, progressive-rock orchestra. The music fuses multiple genres including rock, pop and jazz, which ultimately creates an ensemble sound that acknowledges the tradition of jazz as much as it sonically embraces experimental textures, arrangements, and harmonies. A veteran of the Montreal Jazz Festival and similarly prestigious musical events, the orchestra makes a special appearance at Ventura’s own house of jazz and spirits, The Grape. 8-11 p.m.; $20-$30. 2733 East Main Street, Ventura, 805.212.6130, www.thegrapeventura.com.
VENTURA BEACH CLEANUP
May 28 | Ventura Bring your sun hats, water bottles and closed-toed shoes to help Surfrider and the city of Ventura keep the beach clean. Buckets, grabbers and gloves will be provided. Volunteer waivers need to be signed in advance. Please check in on the Promenade at California Street next to the Crowne Plaza Hotel; look for the blue Surfrider tent. Cleanup lasts from 9 a.m. to about 11 a.m. Details and waivers are online at ventura.surfrider.org/beach-cleanups/. Email beachcleanups@ventura.surfrider.org with any questions.
ART IN THE PARK
May 28-29 | Ojai The 45th Annual Art in the Park return’s to Ojai’s beautiful Libbey Park over Memorial Day Weekend! The annual tradition started in 1977 to give local artists a place to sell their work. Nestled amongst the oaks, the natural setting is a fine setting to showcase the rich mixture of art in a
Photo courtesy Moers Festival
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variety of media. Presented by the Ojai Art Center, the oldest nonprofit art center in California, it draws art lovers from near and far who enjoy the relaxed atmosphere and approachable artists. Arts and crafts for kids, live music from Dive Bar Messiahs, classes for adults, food vendors and more. Libbey Park, 210 South Signal Street, Ojai, www.ojaiartcenter.org/artinthepark.html.
ON THE HORIZON THE SOUND OF MUSIC
June 3 – July 3 | Moorpark The final collaboration between Rodgers & Hammerstein was destined to become the world’s most beloved musical. Featuring a trove of cherished songs, including “Climb Every Mountain,” “My Favorite Things,” “Do Re Mi,” “Sixteen Going on Seventeen” and the title number, The Sound of Music won the hearts of audiences worldwide, earning five Tony Awards and five Oscars. The inspirational story, based on the memoir of Maria Augusta Trapp, follows an ebullient postulate who serves as governess to the seven children of the imperious Captain Von Trapp, bringing music and joy to the household. But as the forces of Nazism take hold of Austria, Maria and the entire Von Trapp family must make a moral decision. $23-$25. High Street Arts Center, 45 East High Street, Moorpark, 805.529.8700, highstreetartscenter.com.
CASA PACIFICA ANGELS WINE, FOOD AND BREW FESTIVAL
June 5 | Camarillo The Festival will once again offer an unbeatable array of exhibitors presenting delicious food samples from restaurants, caterers, bakeries, and specialty shops, to the palate-pleasing tastes of fine wines, smooth brews, spirits, and specialty beverages from throughout the region and California. A large online silent auction offers guests and people not able to attend the chance to bid on must-have baskets and experiences. The “Best in Fest” brewery competition winner will show off their winning creation, and the Yummie Top Chef competition will crown winners for the best “Savory” and the best “Sweet” chef’s masterpiece among the participating exhibitors. Live entertainment throughout the day on the main stage will keep the festival-goers dancing all afternoon. $125. California State University, Channel Islands, 1 University Drive, Camarillo, www.cpwinefoodbrewfest.com.
AIN’T MISBEHAVIN’
June 8-26 | Ventura It’s 1930’s Harlem, and the joint is jumpin’! Nightclubs like the Cotton Club and the Savoy Ballroom are the playgrounds of high society, and dive bars on Lenox Avenue pulse with piano players banging out new tunes that are a wild mix of raucous, rowdy, and mournful. At home on the keyboard is Thomas “Fats” Waller – the big-hearted, bigger-than-life impresario and international jazz pianist who helped create and define American swing. Ain’t Misbehavin’ is a musical tribute to Waller’s passion for pleasure and play. Previews June 8-10. $39.60-$79.50. Rubicon Theatre Company, 1006 East Main Street, Ventura, 805.667.2900, www.rubicontheatre.org/events/aint-misbehavin/
Rutledge Results
From the Eastside to the Westside, And the Hillside to the Seaside
LAURIE RUTLEDGE
DEREK BERTHOLD
CalRE#01156115
CalRE#02038434
805.340.4854
805.869.8005
Laurie4Homes@aol.com
Derek@VenturaRE.com
REALTOR® / B.S. Industrial Design
REALTOR / M.B.A. ®
www.VenturaRE.com
www.LaurieRutledge.com
$
2,100,000
CL OS IN G
SO ON
www.7159Ridgecrest.com | Ventura |
This fabulous Upper Clearpoint in over 2500sf with ocean and city light views can be yours! Featuring a gourmet kitchen with professional appliances, elegant owners’ suite with fireplace, an outdoor kitchen, spa and a rare oversize 3 car garage!
JU
PROPERTY TAX BREAK
JUST SOLD FOR $525,000 REPRESENTED BUYER AND SELLER
With the passage of Proposition 19, qualified homeowners can transfer the current taxable value of their primary residence to a replacement residence anywhere in California... • Regardless of replacement residence value (with adjustment if “greater” in value).
LI
ST I
NG
721HighPoint.com W
THINKING ABOUT RELOCATING? You might be eligible for a
NE
ST
SO
LD
!
715 Creekmont Ct.
ENJOY UNOBSTRUCTED VIEWS OF THE OCEAN, ISLANDS AND CITY LIGHTS
• Within 2 years of the sale. • Up to 3 times. In order to qualify, a homeowner must be age 55 or older, severly disabled, or must be a victim of wildfire/natural disasters.
You’ll enjoy a generous flat building pad with opportunities for ocean views from the rear of the lot. Approx. 11,209SF. 715 CREEKMONT CT, VENTURA SOLD FOR $525,000
This tax break is also extended to Californians inheriting property from a parent/grandparent as long as the property is used as a primary residence.
Call us for details about this opportunity!
Well maintained 4+2 Clearpoint Home! Impeccably maintained with newer windows, furnace, A/C, ducting, insulation and water heater!! 721 HIGH POINT DR, VENTURA $ 1,350,000
The property information herein is derived from various sources that may include, but not be limited to, county records and the Multiple Listing Service, and it may include approximations. Although the information is believed to be accurate, it is not warranted and you should not rely upon it without personal verification. Real estate agents affiliated with Coldwell Banker Realty are independent contractor sales associates, not employees. ©2022 Coldwell Banker. All Rights Reserved. Coldwell Banker and the Coldwell Banker logos are trademarks of Coldwell Banker Real Estate LLC. The Coldwell Banker® System is comprised of company owned offices which are owned by a subsidiary of Realogy Brokerage Group LLC and franchised offices which are independently owned and operated. The Coldwell Banker System fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act.
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Juliet Esquibias Ariel Palmieri ArielandKaren.com CalDRE #01831073
Karen Stein
CalDRE #01501968
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Sara Carlson SearchVChomes.com JulietReviews.com CalDRE #02177285
SALE PENDING
SOLD
3757 Ocean Drive, Hollywood Beach Represented the Buyers! More than 3900 SF oceanfront modern beach home built in 2007. Three levels with incredible ocean frontage. 4 bedrooms and 4 baths. Spectacular views of the ocean, Channel Islands and sunsets. Listed for $4,795,000. Sold for $4,700,000
COMING SOON
1369 Beachmont Street, Ventura Keys Art Deco custom waterfront home with both harbor and ocean views, as well as views of the Topa Topas. Incredible design by Ventura architect Larry Rasmussen, who worked in collaboration with the owner to create an Art Deco masterpiece. The boat dock can accommodate a sailboat or other water toys. Listed for $3,200,000
NEW LISTING
SOLD
NEW LISTING
2327 Martinique Lane, The Colony, Oxnard Single-story condo with ATTACHED direct-access garage. Approximately 1,369 SF. 2+2 + den with open concept kitchen, dining and family room. Community includes pools, spas, gym, racquetball, tennis, pickleball...all across the road from the beach. Listed for $815,999. HOA fee $530/month
1142 Norwood Court, Scandia Pines, Ventura Single-story and fully-detached home in Scandia Pines development. Incredible and spacious yard offers room to garden, play and plenty of privacy. 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms plus an oversized bonus room with its own access to yard. Garden home with two-car garage. Community features pool, spa and tennis! Listed for $675,000. HOA fee $380/month
SOLD
SOLD
10537 San Bruno, East Ventura Nearly new and shows like a model. Elevated corner lot in the highly sought after community, The Farm. Upgraded interior with an entertainer’s kitchen open to the spacious great room. Downstairs bedroom and full bath. Primary suite with stunning mountain views features a spa-like bath and walk-in closet. Covered patio in the backyard provides indoor outdoor living at its finest. 4 bedrooms + 3 baths Approx. 2251 SF. Listed for $925,000. Sold for $990,000
2027 Shadow Creek, Victoria Estates, Oxnard Executive-style home on the golf course with stunning views and a detached 1+1 casita. More than 3000 total square feet between the 4+3 main residence and the casita. Incredible outdoor fireplace in courtyard. Open gourmet-style kitchen. Oversized garage. Community features pool, spa and fitness center. Coming soon for $1,410,000. HOA fee $160/month. Interest list now forming. Call today!
2384 Martinique Lane, The Colony - Oxnard Single level beach condo. This highly-desirable gated community offers amenities including pools, spas, tennis, pickleball and racquetball courts, a fitness center and a spacious room for special events. The home itself is gorgeous with an updated bright interior with tastefully renovated kitchen, baths and paint. This home has an oversized west-facing patio for afternoon sun. Approx. 1113 SF. Listed for $789,000. Sold for $800,000
SOLD
114 E. Fiesta Green, Port Hueneme Bay 3+2 in age-restricted community. Live on vacation with lush grounds, sparkling pool and an array of activities. Single-story living with easy to maintain patios and large 2-car garage. Sun room, eatin kitchen, spacious dining area and oversized laundry/hobby room round out the features. New paint, new carpet, newer wood floors. Listed for $525,000, SOLD for $537,500
5540 W. 5th Street, Space 134, Oxnard Shores MHP Located in the Oxnard Shores neighborhood, this newer manufactured home has 3 bedrooms and 2 baths and is only a block and a half to the sand. The gorgeous kitchen is open and airy with lovely upgrades. There is a spacious formal dining room, a large living room, and both a sweet shaded porch and a sunny patio. Oxnard Shores MHP has great amenities including a pool, spa and clubhouse. Enjoy beach living with fresh air and coastal breezes. Ask about pet restrictions and space rent. Approx. 1676 SF. Listed for $565,000, SOLD for $525,000
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