Apples

The bestapples for eating, baking and more

By Ryan Shepard Southern Kitchen

ho hasn’t been there? You find an amazing apple pie recipe and you’ve followed the directions to the letter. Your house smells amazing and you can’t wait to take your dessert out of the oven and devour it. Only, once your culinary masterpiece is finished baking, the apple slices you painstakingly cut to perfection have all turned into something that is best described as a mushy pulp. Selecting the right apples for the job is half the battle. There are over 2,500 varieties of apples grown in the United States. That makes for a lot of different textures and flavor profiles. Knowing which apples are best for pies, sauces and savory dishes will go a long way in making your baking life easier.

■ Baking

If you are planning on using your apples in a pie or tart you’re going to want an apple that will hold its shape in the heat of an oven. The most widely available — and widely used — apple here is a Granny Smith. Tart, crunchy and firm, this apple not only holds its shape but keeps its texture, which makes it a baker’s favorite. But there’s no reason not to branch out. Here are three others you should try: • Honeycrisp: Honeycrisps are fairly new to the apple scene. They were developed by the Minnesota Agricultural Experiment Station’s Horticultural Research Center and introduced to the general public in 1991. The fruit is itself is crunchy and sweet with little to no tartness. • Pink Lady: Pink Lady apples get their name from their skin, which is reddish-pink in hue. On the inside, the bright white flesh is firm, sweet and tart. • Jonagold: The Jonagold

■ Baking

If you are planning on using your apples in a pie or tart you’re going to want an apple that will hold its shape in the heat of an oven. The most widely available — and widely used — apple here is a Granny Smith. Tart, crunchy and firm, this apple not only holds its shape but keeps its texture, which makes it a baker’s favorite. But there’s no reason not to branch out. Here are three others you should try: • Honeycrisp: Honeycrisps are fairly new to the apple scene. They were developed by the Minnesota Agricultural Experiment Station’s Horticultural Research Center and introduced to the general public in 1991. The fruit is itself is crunchy and sweet with little to no tartness. • Pink Lady: Pink Lady apples get their name from their skin, which is reddish-pink in hue. On the inside, the bright white flesh is firm, sweet and tart. • Jonagold: The Jonagold apple is a genetic cross between Golden Delicious and Jonathan apples. Taking the very best characteristics from its parents, the Jonagold is bright, sweet and slightly sour. This apple tends to be fairly large with a crisp texture. If you’re looking to get the most out of a baking apple, for size and taste, this might be your best bet.

■ Applesauce

Applesauce is a delicious, healthy and easy-to-make snack that you can enjoy at any age. Picking the perfect apples to make applesauce means considering a variety of factors. However, the most important is if the apples in question can be cooked down enough to lose their shape. • McIntosh: McIntosh (or Mac) apples are native to Canada but have made their way into the hearts of Americans everywhere. Unlike a Honeycrisp or Granny Smith, McIntoshes are incredibly sweet with a softer texture, making them ideal for dishes that want apple flavor with little to no crunch. • Braeburn: Braeburn apples are probably not a conventional pick for making applesauce. They have a sweet-tart flavor that is similar to a Granny Smith and a firm texture, which means they don’t break down easily. However, combining this apple with McIntoshes will elevate the traditional sweet apple sauce into something extraordinary.

■ Savory dishes

Apples are classic additions to fall dishes like stuffing, Brussels sprouts and pork. They add a sweet element that often plays nicely with whatever savory ingredients you’re serving. Depending on what you’re cooking, there is certainly an apple that would work best for the occasion. • Fuji: Fuji apples are famous for their sweet crunch and zippy flavor. Fujis aren’t overwhelmingly sweet, so they’re a perfect addition to dishes where you want an apple flavor but nothing that overpowers your whole palate. • Gala: Gala apples are the most popular variety in America today. This mild apple is perfect eaten on its own or added to any savory dish. The texture here is fairly soft ,so keep that in mind when braising or sauteing. • Winesap: Chances are you’ve never heard of a Winesap. This apple dates back to colonial days, where it enjoyed with relatively high popularity for not only cooking but cider making. Recently it’s being rediscovered and put to good use. This apple is on the smaller side but packs a good amount of sweet, tangy flavor.

Fresh Apple Cake

Serves: 12 For the cake:

• 2 cups all-purpose flour • 1 teaspoon cinnamon • ½ teaspoon baking soda • ¼ teaspoon fine salt • 1 cup peeled and chopped apples • 1 cup chopped pecans • 2 cups sugar • 1 ¼ cups vegetable oil • ¼ cup fresh orange juice • 3 large eggs • 1 cup sweetened coconut

For the icing:

• 1 cup granulated sugar • ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter • ½ cup buttermilk • ½ teaspoon baking soda

To make the cake: Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Spray a bundt pan or tube pan with baking spray.

In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, cinnamon, baking soda and salt. In a small bowl, combine the apples and pecans. Add 1 tablespoon of the mixed dry ingredients to the apple mixture and toss to coat.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the sugar, vegetable oil, orange juice and eggs. Beat until well combined. Add the reserved dry ingredients, applepecan mixture and coconut. Mix on low speed until just combined.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake until the sides start to pull away from the pan, about 1 hour. Let the cake cool in the pan for 5 minutes before inverting the cake directly onto a cooling rack. Place the cooling rack and cake in a rimmed baking sheet.

When the cake is cool, make the icing: In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar, butter, buttermilk and baking soda. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture turns pale golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes.

Drizzle the warm icing over the cake on the rack, letting the excess drip to the baking sheet below. Let the icing set for 5 to 7 minutes before serving.

Easy Apple Galette

Serves: 6 For the pastry dough:

• 1 ½ cups all-purpose flour • 2 teaspoons sugar • ¼ teaspoon salt • 8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes • 1/3 cup ice water

For the filling:

• 4 apples, preferably Honeycrisp or Golden Delicious • 2 tablespoons plus ¼ teaspoon sugar • 2 teaspoons lemon juice • ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted • Ice cream, for serving

Heat oven to 400 degrees.

Make the pastry dough: In a food processor, combine the flour, sugar, salt and butter, and pulse just until the mixture comes together, 5 to 10 seconds. Pour the ice water over the flour mixture, and pulse again until the dough forms a rough ball, about 10 seconds. Gather the pastry and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Refrigerate while you make the filling. (If not baking right away, you can refrigerate the dough overnight.)

Make the filling: Core and halve the apples (you can peel if you prefer). Chop half the apples into bite-size pieces. Slice the other half ¼ inch thick to decorate the top of the galette. You should have 2 ½ to 3 cups chopped apples. Mix the apples in a bowl with 2 tablespoons of the sugar, the lemon juice and the cinnamon. Set aside while you prepare the pastry.

Pull the dough from the refrigerator. Using a rolling pin, roll out the dough on a lightly floured work surface. You can form into a circle or rectangle depending on which shape baking sheet you are using. Roll pastry dough to about ¼ inch thick. Place the chopped apples on the dough, leaving a 1-inch border along the edge of pastry. Decoratively place the sliced apples on top in circles or overlapping rows. Fold the pastry edge carefully over the apples. Brush the melted butter all over the galette. Sprinkle the remaining ¼ teaspoon sugar over the galette. Bake until the apples are tender and the crust is well-browned, about 1 hour. Let galette cool 10 minutes before serving.

Milton Family Apple Butter

Serves: 64 (makes 4 quarts)

• Half bushel of apples (about 24 pounds; Granny Smith preferred) • 3 to 6 cups sugar • 8 to 10 cinnamon candies or Red Hots

Peel, core and chop the apples into 1- to 2-inch pieces. Transfer the chopped apples to a stock pot. Add 1 inch of water to the pot (approximately 1 to 1 ½ cups, depending on the size of the pot).

Let the apples cook, uncovered, on mediumlow heat, until they are very soft, 60 to 90 minutes. Stir occasionally to prevent the apples from sticking. The apples will start to brown as they oxidize; this is OK.

Taste the apples for their level of sweetness. Add approximately 3 to 4 cups sugar, adjusting the amount to taste. Stir in the sugar to dissolve and mash any remaining chunks of apples. Stir in the cinnamon candies, to taste.

Continue simmering the apples until they’ve reached your desired thickness, 1 to 2 more hours. Add up to 2 cups more sugar, if desired.

If storing in the refrigerator, let the apple butter cool to room temperature and transfer to four quart jars.

If canning the apple butter for long-term storage, transfer the hot apple butter to four sanitized quart canning jars. Leave ¼ inch of headspace on the top of the jars. Seal the jars fingertip tight and place in a boiling water canner for 10 minutes. Remove from the water bath and let the jars cool to room temperature before storing.

Baked Brie with Bacon and Apples

Serves: 8

• 3 strips bacon, diced • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter • 1 apple, such as Granny Smith, diced • 2 tablespoons brown sugar • ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon • ¼ teaspoon kosher salt • 1 (8-ounce) wheel Brie cheese • Toasted and sliced baguette, crackers and/or apple slices, for serving

Heat the oven to 325 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a medium skillet, cook the bacon over medium heat until brown and crisp, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a paper towel-lined plate. Pour the rendered bacon fat into a bowl and save for another use, if desired.

Melt the butter in the now-empty skillet over medium heat. When the butter is foamy, add the apples and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Stir in the brown sugar, cinnamon and salt, and continue to cook until the apples are tender, about 2 more minutes. Remove from the heat.

Slice the rind off the top of the Brie and place on the baking sheet. Bake until the

cheese is very soft, 8 to 10 minutes. Slide the baked Brie onto a serving dish and top with the apple mixture, followed by the bacon. Surround with baguette slices, crackers and/or apples; serve immediately.

Cornbread Dressing with Pecans and Apples

Serves: 4

• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter • 2 to 3 cups crumbled cornbread • 2 to 3 cups cubed crusty sourdough bread • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil • ½ cup chopped onion • ¼ cup diced celery • ½ cup coarsely chopped pecans • ½ small red apple, diced • ½ pound pork breakfast sausage • 1 large egg, lightly beaten • 2 cups chicken stock • 3 to 4 fresh sage leaves, finely chopped • 3 to 4 leaves fresh marjoram, finely chopped • Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat oven to 375 degrees. Grease an 8-inch baking dish with 1 tablespoon of the butter.

In a large bowl, combine the cornbread and sourdough bread.

Heat the olive oil and remaining tablespoon of butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 5 minutes, stirring often. Add the celery and continue cooking until the onion is getting soft and the celery is just losing its crunch, about 5 minutes. Stir in the pecans and cook until frangrant, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir into the bread mixture, along with the apple. Wipe out the skillet.

Brown the sausage in the now-clean skillet over medium-high heat, crumbling it as it cooks. Spread on a paper towel to drain, then stir into the bread mixture.

Stir the eggs into the bread mixture, followed by enough chicken stock to make the mixture very moist. (It may seem a little too wet, but that’s OK. Dressing needs to be very moist when it goes in the oven.)

Add the sage and marjoram, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Turn the mixture into the prepared dish. Cover with foil and bake for about 45 minutes. Remove the foil and add a little broth (or drippings from a roasting bird) if it looks dry. Continue baking until the top is starting to get crunchy, about 15 minutes.

Apple Salad with Fennel and Walnuts

Serves: 4 to 6

• 1 cup walnuts • 2 cups baby arugula • 2 large apples, such as Granny Smith, Honeycrisp, Gala or Fuji, cored and thinly sliced • 1 bulb fennel, cored and thinly sliced • 2 ribs celery, thinly sliced on the bias • 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil • Juice of 1 lemon • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Spread the walnuts in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Roast until golden brown and fragrant, 6 to 8 minutes. Let cool to room temperature.

In a large bowl, combine the arugula, apples, fennel, celery and walnuts. Toss with the olive oil and lemon juice, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve.

Apple and Crispy Brussels Sprouts Salad

Serves: 4

• 2 ½ cups apple cider • ½ cup shelled raw pistachios • 1 sprig rosemary, stem removed, leaves finely chopped • 1 pinch fleur de sel • Vegetable oil for frying • 26 brussels sprouts, trimmed and cut in half • 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar • Salt and freshly ground pepper • ½ cup crème fraîche • 2 tart apples, such as Granny Smith, peeled, quartered, cored and thinly sliced

In a small pot over high heat, boil cider until it is reduced to a thin syrup, about 30 minutes (you will have about ¼ cup). Set aside to cool.

Meanwhile, in a small ungreased pan over low heat, toast the pistachios, stirring occasionally, until golden-brown, about 10 minutes. Remove from pan to cool and chop them coarsely (by hand or in a food processor). Combine the chopped pistachios with the rosemary leaves and fleur de sel. Set aside.

In a heavy pot or fryer, heat the oil to 350 degrees. Fry the brussels sprout halves until the outside leaves begin to turn golden brown. Do not overfry, or they will turn mushy. Remove the sprouts from the oil and toss in a bowl with the sherry vinegar and a dash each of salt and pepper.

On each of four plates spread 2 tablespoons crème fraîche in a line. Liberally drizzle with the reduced apple cider. Arrange 6 or 7 sprout halves over the crème fraîche. Top each with ¼ of the apples. Top with the remaining sprouts. Drizzle with remaining cider reduction and then sprinkle each salad generously with the pistachio mixture. Serve immediately.

Molasses-Rubbed Pork Tenderloin

Serves: 10 For the pork:

• 6 cups hot water • 1 cup granulated sugar • ¾ cup kosher salt • 4 pounds pork tenderloins, trimmed • ½ cup molasses • 1/3 cup brown sugar, packed • ¼ cup vegetable oil • 1 tablespoon salt • 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper • 4 rosemary sprigs, leaves finely chopped

For the Apple, Walnut and Onion Relish:

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil • 4 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and diced into ¼-inch cubes • 1 large onion, diced • 1 cup chopped walnuts, toasted • 1 clove garlic, minced • Salt and freshly ground black pepper • 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves • 1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage To make the pork: Combine the water, sugar and salt and stir until dissolved. Let cool to room temperature.

Place the tenderloins in the cooled brine and refrigerate for at least 5 hours, or up to 24 hours.

In a large bowl, combine the molasses, brown sugar, oil, salt, pepper and rosemary. Drain the pork tenderloins and add them to the marinade. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or up to 24 hours.

Preheat the grill to medium-high. Drain the tenderloins and pat dry.

Grill the pork, turning every few minutes to brown evenly, until an instant-read thermometer registers 145 degrees. Transfer to a cutting board, cover with foil and let rest 5 minutes before slicing.

Meanwhile, make the relish: In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the apples, onion, walnuts and garlic and cook until the onions are tender. Stir in the thyme and sage, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve with the pork.

Stued Acorn Squash with Sausage and Apples

Serves: 4

• 2 large acorn squash, halved and seeded • 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper • 4 links hot Italian sausage, casings removed (see note) • ½ yellow onion, diced • 3 ribs celery, finely diced • 1 Granny Smith apple, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces • 3 tablespoons chopped fresh sage • 4 cloves garlic, minced • ½ cup chicken broth • 1 cup panko bread crumbs • ½ cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano, plus more for serving

Heat the oven to 400 degrees.

Place the squash halves on a baking sheet cut-side up. Drizzle 3 tablespoons of the olive oil over the flesh of the squash. Liberally season with salt and black pepper and roast until the squash are fork tender and the edges have started to curl, about 40 minutes. Let cool until easy to handle. Keep the oven on.

While squash are roasting, heat the remaining olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When the oil is shimmering, add the sausage and cook, stirring frequently and breaking up any large pieces with a wooden spoon, until cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the onion and celery and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the apples, sage and garlic, and cook until aromatic, about 1 minute. Stir in the chicken broth and bring to a simmer, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan.

When the squash are cool enough to handle, scoop the flesh into a large bowl, leaving ½ inch of flesh attached to the skin to help retain each squash’s shape. Add the sausage mixture and stir to incorporate the squash. Season to taste with salt and black pepper.

Stuff the sausage mixture into the hollowed squash halves and return to the baking sheet. Top with the bread crumbs and the Parmigiano Reggiano. Drizzle with a little more olive oil and roast until lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Sprinkle with additional Parmigiano Reggiano and drizzle with additional extra-virgin olive oil, as desired. Serve.

Note: If you’d like to make a vegetarian version of this dish, you can substitute 1 pound of mushrooms, sauteed in butter. We like shiitakes here, but you could also use a mixture of wild mushrooms or cremini mushrooms, cooked until all of their liquid has evaporated. Use vegetable broth instead of the chicken broth.

Two ways to make fall’s best fried food

By Rachel Forrest

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n old-school pairing during fall is apple cider and doughnuts. I read a lot about the origin of the cider doughnut and found all sorts of stories including one from “King Arthur Flour Baker’s Companion” cookbook, which says that when fried dough recipes came across the ocean from Holland (olykoeks or oily cakes) and France (beignets) in the Colonial era, the Colonists adapted them during butchering season when there was fat for frying.

That season was autumn when there were also plenty of apples and apple cider. Cake doughnuts made with baking soda or powder instead of yeast abounded. How the cider actually got into the doughnut is not recorded, but I imagine an “aha” or “what if” moment when some creative cook saw both together.

Cider in the mix gives the doughnuts a lightly sweet flavor but also a tender texture. Of course, you don’t have to use animal fat when frying them — although I’ve had some made with duck fat and they’re very tasty. Lard is good too because it crisps up the outside nicely. If you’re avoiding animal fats, use vegetable oils like safflower. Of course, you can also bake them, which is a more healthful technique than deep frying.

I’ve tried both of these recipes many times over the years and they turn out wonderfully. Have a jug of fresh apple cider on hand if you’re one of those who likes to dip that doughnut into the cider. I’m more of a creamy coffee dunking kind of gal.

Basic Fried Apple Cider Doughnuts

Makes 1 dozen or more, if you use the holes to create more rounds

• 2 cups apple cider • 3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for shaping • ½ cup whole wheat flour • 2/3 cup packed brown sugar • 2 teaspoons baking powder • ¾ teaspoon salt • ½ teaspoon baking soda • ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom • ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg • ¼ teaspoon ground allspice • 2 large eggs • 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, then cooled • 1 ½ quarts lard, shortening or vegetable oil, for frying • Cinnamon sugar, for dusting or coating

Bring the cider to a rolling boil in a saucepan. Cook over high heat until reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Let cool completely. In a large bowl, whisk together the flours, brown sugar, baking powder, salt, baking soda and spices. In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, melted butter and the cooled cider.

Stir the egg mixture into the flour mixture just until moistened. The dough will be a bit sticky. Refrigerate, covered, until firm enough to hold its shape, about 1 hour.

Divide dough in half. On a well-floured counter, pat each half into a round about ½ inch thick. Using a 3-inch doughnut cutter, stamp out 12 doughnuts.

In an electric skillet, deep fryer or sturdy, deep pan, heat oil to 325 degrees. Fry doughnuts, a few at a time, until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Fry doughnut holes, if desired, a few at time, until golden brown and cooked through, about 1 minute per side. Transfer all doughnuts to a paper towel-lined platter and let cool slightly. While the doughnuts are still warm, gently shake them in a bag with the cinnamon sugar, two at a time. Serve.

Basic Baked Apple Cider Doughnuts with Maple or Apple Cider Glaze

Makes 1 dozen For the doughnuts:

• 1 ¼ cups granulated sugar • 1 cup unsweetened applesauce • 1/3 cup vegetable oil • 3 large eggs • ¼ cup boiled apple cider (see recipe above) • 1 ½ teaspoons vanilla • 1 ½ teaspoons baking powder • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon • 1 teaspoon salt • 2 cups all-purpose flour • 2 tablespoons cinnamon sugar, for coating

For the glaze:

• 1 ½ cups powdered sugar • 3 tablespoons maple syrup or boiled apple cider • 2 teaspoons milk or 1 tablespoon heavy cream • Pinch salt

To make the doughnuts: Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease two standard doughnut pans.

In a large bowl, beat together the sugar, applesauce, oil, eggs, boiled cider, vanilla, baking powder, cinnamon and salt until smooth. Add the flour, stirring just until smooth. Fill the wells of the doughnut pans nearly to the rim, using about a ¼ cup of batter per doughnut.

Bake until a cake tester inserted into the center of the doughnuts comes out clean, 15 to 18 minutes. Remove the doughnuts from the oven, and loosen the edges. After 5 minutes, transfer them to a rack.

While the doughnuts are still warm, gently shake them in a bag with the cinnamon sugar, two at a time. Cool completely before glazing.

To make the glaze: In a medium bowl, whisk together all of the ingredients until smooth. Spread the glaze over the doughnuts. Let the glaze set before serving.

LYNNE GRAVES | FLICKR