SYCHIL
LINEN MAGIC
Capsule in linen! Choose from some of our favorites!
CLASSICS
A lovely look back at TG Sewing Patterns. Classic & still vital to a romantic wardrobe.
4 QUICKHACKS
A simple deletion, add on or reshape and we have a whole new garment.
3PATTERNS
Exclusive to this issue we have a great tunic top, tunic dress, and a chiffon slip dress.
+ FABRIC SHOPS
Worldwide, you will find our favorite listing. And a list of pattern printing resources for your download patterns.
US$36.95 EXPRESS YOUR INDIVIDUALITY WITH STYLE, STITCHES, CRAFT & LIFE. # 7 t i n a g i v e n s
lagenlook
Download the Pocket Patch HERE Or https://sewtinagivens.com/Gina-shirtpdf-7016/
COVER: The Margritte Dress under the Kiani Slip.
SYCHIL
Magazine
Editorial Office: 1060 W 14 Mile Road #202 Clawson MI 48017 info@tinagivens.com
Publisher: TG Studios, llc
Editor in Chief: Tina Givens
Editor: Michelle McNamara
Advertising Manager: Katie Holmer
Copy Editor: Katherine Shu
SYCHIL {ISBN# 978.1.640204.3442.7) is published by TG Studios, llc. Registered Office 1060 W 14 Mile Rd. #202 • Clawson MI 48017
• USA Copyright © TG Studios, llc. /SYCHIL llc. 2021 All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. The editor reserves the right to edit, shorten or modify any material submitted. The decision on all printed or digitally published is final. The views expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of SYCHIL llc. or the editor. Unsolicited material will be considered but cannot be returned. Printing 580 California Street, San Francisco, CA 94104. Postmaster send address corrections to SYCHIL Magazine INFO&TINAGIVENS.COM. Printed & Digital Offering. Visit SYCHIL.COM for more information.
the
issue
GINA SHIRT , Over Briare Slip
AT LEFT: GINA SHIRT
Issue Seven
3 new PATTERNS + 4 Hacks
Loving bright sunshine and new flowers popping up in my trees and in the garden, I revisited my fa vorite garments in this issue for a freeing and pretty summer wardrobe. We revisit some of the oldies but classics,. Refresh with a few lovely hacks and 3 new garments to add to your collection. SYCHIL is designed to inspire your creativity and think about how else we can use patterns you already have to make fresh new pieces. So much fun!
COLOR PALETTES 20
Color and print is so very personal. I created six, very different, palettes for your swooning!
LAGENLOOK? 11
How I view the term lagenlook!
FABRIC SHOPS 23
The best-curated fabric shops in the world, just for you. Find some amazing inspiration from these stores. We know you will find the perfect fabric for your sewing projects.
PRINT RESOURCES 31
So many to choose from. Printers for your A0 download pattern files.
FREE PATTERNS
6
4
Enjoy! contents ISSUE 07 The Lagenlook Issue
.
MELBOURNE TUNIC TOP MAHOGANY SLIP CARMEL TUNIC DRESS HACKS ABACORN TUNIC - Abbey GINA - Melicient Shirt Dress 7,18 TIA SLIP - Overlay Hack 13 CLARA 28 INSPIRATION
Board
note from
BIAS
A
Tina
Stunning results with a simple https://www.facebook.com/gallerikock Summer Love Abacorn Sugar Slip Phoebe Pant Phoebe Top Sugar Slip Zelda Pant
Shirt Sugar Ruffle Version
Gina
BIAS I
am delighted to bring you a fresh look at a romantic lagenlook interpretation using our sewing patterns. Here I have organized them into a capsule wardrobe of sorts to kick-start a summer linen and soft wardrobe you can pull from through the coming warmer months.
Thank you for affording me the pleasure to serve you up some garment love. And thanks to a few precious people on www.buildyourwardrobe.com club FORUM including Karen Kline @merfaerie who is just unbelievable, prolific and gorgeously tall. She makes each piece with thoughtful intention and has made the forum an absolute must! Thanks to Pamela Schneider @Pamela who has lovely taste, and puts it altogether defining her own style! Love her modifications and sweet touches. You wear it well Pamela, thanks for posting your looks. And thanks to Deborah Miles, @deejfred who is remarkable, and I love to see her embellishments, use of fabric and the use of the free planner. Thank you Deborah! And to all of you in our Facebook Group, SEWTG WORKSHOP GROUP. You inspire me everyday!
Pamela Schneider @Pamela https://www.buildyourcollection.com/free-bees
I watch what you’re making and I listen to your incredible stories. I am humbled and feel joy everyday as your personal designer and muse.
ISSUE 07
With much love and hope, tg
t i n a g i v e n s
Pamela wearing the Free Pattern Eileen.
Capsule
6
Shown with Archie Shirt, Silk Slip and
Peplone Jacket Peplone Tunic
Abacorn Hack See P21 Abbey
Gina Shirt Phoebe Pant Melbourne Top This Issue
Prairie Over Briare
Gypsy Jacket
LizBeth SYCHIL 05
Clara Kaftan Hack See P28
Marisha Jacket
Lalica Dress
For Instructions See Page 18
Milicent
inspiration
Melbourne Top S07/001
XS-2X
An easy to wear, easy to make tunic top. Shown with Tia in White silk organza and the Phoebe Pant TG-A3131
GARMENT MEASUREMENTS:
Garment measures approximately 32-36”
Sleeve length 21-1/2”. Short Sleeve 15”
Bodice from shoulder measures 17-20” depending on your size
Circle measures 8” diameter
Pocket is 8” H x7” W
Tunic is wide and will fit busts as above but hangs loose.
Inset sleeve, patch pocket, raw edges unless choose to hem and bind as in instructions.
NOTE: All Garments measurements listed here will vary -/+ 2% due to variations of sewing techniques and personal measurements.
Materials
Light to medium weight fabric, choose linen, cotton, silk.
44” Wide Fabric
XS / S / M : 3 Yards / 2.70M
L/ XL / 2X: 3-1/8Y / 2.85M
54” Wide Fabric
XS: 2-3/4 Yards / 2.55M
S / M: 2-7/8 Yards / 2.61M
L / XL / 2X: 3 Yards / 2.70M
PATTERN PIECES
• Front Bodice
• Back Bodice
• Skirt Panel
• Sleeve
• Pocket
• Appliqué circle
NOT INCLUDED
- We made the Melbourne Tunic with raw edging, but optionally you can finish the edges by hemming the bottom edge (omit the cut out in front), hem the sleeves, and bind the neckline. For a finished appliqué circle we recommend cutting two pieces, stitch them together, right sides together, leaving 2” open for turning right side out. Press flat, then apply to the shirt.
Bias Binding: 2” wide x 32” long.
9
Cutting Instructions
Melbourne Tunic
The Bodice pieces and Skirt Panels need to be cut on the fold of the fabric as shown. Sleeves can be cut along the grain as shown in 44” wide fabric or cross grain if using 54” wide.
Cut the appliqué circle (one for raw edges, or two if finishes as described above.
One or two pocket pieces, your preference. Cut a length of bias binding for the neckline unless you prefer the raw edged neckline as we did.
• If choosing a raw linen edge hem, stitch across the bottom edge 1/4” from the edge, and again 1/4”, follow the curve of the front cut out if you have one, repeat for the back side. Also stitch upward on each side for the side vents, to the stop point shown on the pattern piece.
• Fig.6. Pin the front bodice to the front skirt, right sides together, and stitch together. Press. Optionally top stitch this seam. Or do not if you prefer not to enhance this seam across the body.
• Repeat for the back bodice and back skirt.
• Fig.7. Place the front and back panels together, matching the shoulder seams, right sides together and stitch the shoulder seams.
• Fig.8. Pin the sleeves onto the shoulders of the tunic, center point of the sleeve to shoulder seam, right sides together. Stitch into the armhole. Repeat for the other sleeve. Press. Optionally top stitch the sleeve seams.
• Fig.9. Place the garment inside out, and pin the under arms, sleeves and side seams to the STOP POINT on the side seams. . Stitch. Press.
• Fig.10. For hemmed tunic, Hem the vents by snipping into the top edge of the seam allowance at the top of the vent, and fold the raw vent sides to th wrong side and hem. Hem the remaining hemline using a simple folded hem.
• For a raw edge, just top stitch across the top of each vent to secure. Run a top stitch around the cuffs as you did the hemline earlier, and the same for the neckline.
• For a finished version, hem the sleeves and bind the neckline. See the Abacorn Hack: Abbey binding instruc tions.
Sewing Instructions
• Fig. 1 You should have a Front and Back bodice piece, 2 sleeves, and 2 skirts. Optionally you cut out the curved opening in the front skirt panel as shown in Fig.2.
• Fig.3. Raw edged appliqué: Pin the circle in place onto the Front Bodice Panel, note placement on the pattern piece and stitch around the edge 1/4” from the edge. Stitch a second line of stitching 1/4” from the first onto the circle to secure.
• If chosen a finished edge circle appliqué, you have cut two circles. Pin together right sides together. Stitch around the edge using 1/2” seam allowance leaving 2” open for turning. Clip seam allowance every 2” around the circle, and turn the circle right side out, pushing the edges outward for a smooth circle. Press flat, then pin and stitch onto Front Bodice.
• Fig.4. Prepare the pocket: Fold over the top edge 1/4” and press flat, fold again 1/2” and press again. Top stitch across to secure the pocket top edge.
• If choosing a finished pocket, finish the raw edges of the pocket edges. Then fold the sides and bottom edge under to the wrong side, 1/4” and press.
10
• Fig.5. Pin the pocket in place, note the pattern piece for positioning or choose where you’d like your pocket to sit. Stitch sides and bottom edge.
PLACE ON FOLDPLACE ON FOLDFOLD54” W
44” W
1 3 2 4 5 6 8 9 10
LagenLook What is
Lagenlook is a German term, translated into English simply means “layering look”.
I stumbled upon this ‘label’ after being asked so many times, what style of clothing was I wearing. Someone mentioned Lagenlook at one the trade shows, and became a term I started to use as the clothing I wore which is usually worn layered. Pants under dresses has been a go to for me from an early age. I just felt comfortable and it felt fun and romantic.
This is not to say that Germany first introduced layering clothing, indeed many creative women worldwide including mainstream designers have layered their clothing for centuries. In fact I guess we all create lagenlook everyday in our own way from the moment we start to get dressed.
However this terminology started to snowball and take off and today there are many sellers who use this word to describe the clothing they sell. It encapsulates the style well.
Layering your clothing can be a way of disguising imperfections and creating your very own unique style of dressing. Over the years I have worn high-end, vintage finds, sewn my own clothes and even exclusive designer clothing to express my own individual style. I do, however, have a real passion for quirky unusual shapes in clothing. I like structural little easy-todo techniques and instate unexpected elements into a garment.
Incredibele designers like Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Rick Owens, and more recently Rundholtz, Ewa i Walla, Danielle Gregis, and Moyuru in ready-to-wear categories are just a few labels I love. There are far too many to mention.
Being in the high-fashion categories in shows like Atelier, Curate and Califronia shows I have watched this style grow in popularity and has become quite mainstream on differnt levels. Some clearly lagenlook, and some subtle in their presentation. When I first launched SEWTinaGivens we grew with a handful of customers who immediately ‘got’ the style, but over time more folks started recognizing this as a way to dress and feel elegant and stylish.
Beyond the ‘lagenlook’ label, I am most inspired by self-expression and style. The passion of offering garments to feel wonderful in clothing with or without the layering aspect. A simple shift dress, pants, crop tops and slip dresses. Offering sewing patterns and how-to dress through my personal lense allows me to offer any body shape and size an option for dressing creatively, expressively and sized well for a beautiful presentation. We all like to feel great in our clothes.
By both wearing and sharing my style of clothing I have an eye for illustrating suggested lengths of each layer shown in my imagery of each piece. When sharing a tunic, I usually have pants with it, and it’s either included in the pattern or another pattern to make the entire outfit accessible. Creating and co-ordinating capsule wardrobes of layered clothing which interacts with your lifestyle and also expresses you as an individual is where my heart is.
11
* LesOurs, France
Luella TUNIC
TG-A6023
Shown with SUGAR Slip & Oprah Pant
Annabelle Slip
Weekend Summer Capsule
Annabelle Slip
Tia Slip & Overlay
Clara Kaftan & Sugar slip
S07004
Tia Hack
S07/008
Simple Just don’t cut out the opening, add a border to the hem!
Tia
13
TG-A7080
Clara Kaftan
The Emma Dress is a fabulous dress full of details. It’s little cap sleeve ribbon, embellishments, pleated skirt and ribbon waist (optional) make for a fun sewing session.
Emma TG-A7039
https://sewtinagivens.com/emma-dress-tg-ac7039/
Emma
FREE
Free Patterns now available!
Lotus
Lotus Shirt is gorgeous in feather light Voile / Lawn. Lotus TG-A7009
FREE
Emma
Strappy Frills
TG-A6010
Strappy Frills
TG-A6010 is now a free pattern.
Mahogany Slip
S07003
We all need this slip! Made to layer under almost anything. Great detail at the neckline designed to show. Gorgeous under the CLARA KAFTAN for a peek out of the top chest and hemline. Shown in silk chiffon, making the ruffles that much more soft and divine.
Sizes
4 Sizes: XS/S • M/L • XL • 2X Fits all busts up to 60” Measure for your size!
Requirements
Fabric: Choose something soft and very lightweight. This is meant to hang and drape very softly. So silk chiffon, rayon, lightweight gauze.
FABRIC: All Sizes
• 54” Wide Fabric: 2-3/4Y or 2.50M
• 44” Wide Fabric: 3-1/3Y or 3M
Cutting
• Place the slip dress panel along the fold of the fabric and cut the Front which is wider than the back, note the Back Fold Cut Line.
• Place again along this Back Line Fold line and cut out the back panel.
• Cut 4 strips of fabric W.O.F x 6” or 15cm.
• Cut two straps 4” x 12” (10cm x 30cm).
• Cut two strips 2” x 40” (5cm x 100cm)
Sewing
1. Stitch a gathering line across the FRONT top edge, see pattern for marks. Gather to half it’s original width. Place this onto your body to verify where the under-arms and determine the front gathers sit straight across your upper chest. Adjust to fit.
2. Repeat for the BACK panel.
3. Prepare the long 40” / 100cm strips by folding in side edges to ‘wrong side 1/4”, then fold in half (right sides facing outward. Press. Stitch to secure and hem ends.
4. Place one of the strips across the gathering stitches on the garment front. First center the strip, and pin down, the ends are supposed to be ribbons that hang down freely. Optionally you can stitch this strip right across the top edge of the dress onto the gather lines and to the sides, trim off excess.
5. Repeat for the back.
6. Place the back and front panels together right sides together, and stitch side seams. (For transparent fabric use a French Seam).
7. Finish or hem the bottom edge of the dress. Tip: Edge stitch 1/8” from the edge, then fold at this line and press. Fold again 1/4” and stitch down.
8. Ruffles: Join the strips of 6” wide ruffle strips side to side to form a loop. Edge stitch the top edge. Hem or edge stitch for raw edges the bottom edge. Ruffle the top edge.
9. Using a gathering stitch, stitch along the sides of the dress along the hemline 6” on each side of the side seam.
10. Gather in so it measures 6” (15cm).
11. Pin the top edge of the ruffle 1” from the bottom edge of the dress hem, right side of the dress fabric to wrong side of the ruffle fabric. Stitch the ruffles onto the dress.
12. Finish the armholes by hemming or binding.
13. Pin the straps onto your dress, adjust length to your preference. Tuck in the ends and stitch onto the dress.
17 Shown with the REDDIT PANT FREE to Club Members TG-A1005 Mahogany SlipMahogany SlipMahogany SlipS07003 1 2 4 3 5 6 7 8 9 10 12 13
Gina Hack: Milicent S07002
We all love the easy Gina slip! Adding a variation to the collar, long cuffs, lengthening the shirt plus those fun -- pockets make Gina all that much more dramatic.
Here’s how to do it. You need: THE GINA SHIRT PATTERN Fabric: Shirting, voile, rayon, cotton, light linen.
Yardage: 54” Wide -- 3 Yards or 2.75M 1 handkerchief or lace for the pocket appliqué.
We added a handkerchief applique on the top pocket and lace to the second pocket. Choose your appliques and trim or omit the trim for a simpler look. All you’re going to do it draw a vertical line along the side seam to cut off that A-line corner of the original pattern. Now draw another 8” / 20cm to lengthen the shirt. Keep the neckline the same. And view the diagram for the collar, eliminate the indent on the original collar piece, and draw a line as shown.
When cutting you will not cut the front opening from the hem as in the original garment.
Cut the garment as the Gina instructs - on the folds of the fabric, then cut out the neckline. Cut two collar pieces.
A note on the sleeve length: Ours show a very long sleeve (that’s the drama in me!). However, I recommend Measuring the sleeve and noting where you’d prefer the finished length to sit on your arm. Then deduct the 8”/20cm wide cuff (minus a seam allowance).
You will also need to cut the two pockets: 5-1/2” / 14cm Square, + one strip 2”
W x 16-1/2”L / 5cm W x 42cm L.
7-1/2” / 20cm Square, + one strip 3”
Two Cuffs : 8” x 16” / 20cm x 40cm *
Sewing
Easy! Let’s make the pockets first. For the top pocket. Cut out your applique as desired to fit the pocket square, leaving at least 1” on the sides to allow for seam allowance. Appliqué the patch in place using your favorite technique! Hand sew, zig-zag or motion-stitch.
2. Pin the 2” wide strip along the sides and bottom of the pocket, stitch the strip in place, pivoting at the corners. Stay stitch along the seam. We used a contrast color thread.
3. Fold the top edge of the pockets onto the wrong side 1/4” and again 1/4” and stitch across the top edge.
4. Press the outer raw edges of the pocket sides under 1/4” (finish their raw edges prior to doing so.) Pin the pocket in place and pinch the square piece flat onto the garment as shown. When pinning make sure to pin so the sides create a bag like effect.
4. For the bottom pocket, either create a welt, by simply sewing a rectangle, decoratively, then cut the pocket open to create the opening. Add the strip as we did the first pocket, and stitch in place, this time also sewing the pocket down across the top edge.
5. Place the shirt inside out and pin sleeves and sides. Stitch. We French seamed this shirt because the fabric is slightly transparent.
6. Add the cuffs onto the sleeves, first edge stitch or hem the cuff edge and sides. Pin the cuff, right sides together, raw edges together overlapping the sides to fit the sleeve. Stitch on. We created a decorative button hole in the contrast thread.
Continued on P29...
18
Shown with Tia Slip
WORKSHOP SPRING FORWARD
#0127
Join the Club so you can take the new WORKSHOP Spring Forward. Featuring an array of stylish patterns to create a Spring time capsule. Make it your own in light and gentle fabrics, or classic and mysterious in dark contrasts.
Featuring Crop Tops, Appliqué in different forms, Shift Dresses, Pants, a Skirt, a Jacket like no other and the most wonderful shirt.
All new and elegant garments we created in Workshop SPRING FORWARD, and available for purchase or free as Club Members.
I modeled this time! Love these dressed which are simple and elegant with lots of charm. The Sophia shirt is sublime and easy to wear, and the amazing Rochelle Jacket is truly a work of art!
I hope to see you make these your own. Much love, tg
WWW.SYCHIL.COM
19
color palette
LINEN • LIGHTWEIGHT COTTON
Naturally I focused on linen for summer, but in warmer humid climates you want to wear light cottons. Color and print is so very personal so I created six, very different, palettes of available fabrics for your swooning!
NEUTRAL BLUE is romantic and heavenly with it’s palest of grays and blues. I mixed in a feather eyelet and oatmeal for a surprise. Balance of airy and textural elements. Of course you could exchange the blues for palest pinks too!
GOLD SUMMER I am a fan of mustards and golds, and this palette makes me smile. It’s dramatic and bold yet subtle all at the same time. Drop the pinks if you want to edit.
SOFT LAVENDER So pretty for Summer! Love grays, lavender and light greens together. Use the stripe for applique and feather light Liberty of London lawn for added summer loving.
On the bolder side of things, I tried a few surprises with optional edits of course. I am not a big color person myself and gravitate to black, soft grays and creamy solids. But those of you who love a brilliant palette there’s so many options.
EDGY SUMMER I am drawn to inky black, even for summer. Brighten with a white or creamy neutral and it works. Here I added a dash of orange, or smoky pink. Even a light lavender would work! Black and white eyelet is always fresh, and a black and white print always works.
BOLD BEAUTIFUL I know screams at you for more. I chose a beautiful blue, add some grays and cream, or soft greens for a fresh summer day.
STRIKING RED is hot! This palette is elegant to me. Love red and gray. I added a deeper red and some ideas for embellishments with a modern print. You know who you are!
20
Abacorn Tunic
HACK: Abbey
S07/004
The infamous Abacorn Tunic is a versatile lovely linen piece for your wardrobe. Beautifully shaped with pleated details on the sleeves, the original Abacorn has pleats at the hemline, but the Hack Abbey omits the pleats and adds on a lower panel. Both have optional side pockets, Optional facings for the neckline or use bias binding. Two length options for sleeve length.
Abacorn ABBEY Length: 43-45” LONG Sleeve Lengths: short - 15-16”, and Long Sleeve: 21-22”
Materials
--- f a b r i c --- Light to medium weight fabric, choose linen, cotton, Corduroy, Velvet or Silk.
44” wide fabric will work for XS and S sizes
54” works for all sizes
Yardage
IF USING COORDINATING FABRIC FOR BOTTOM PANEL:
PATTERN PIECES
• Front Panel
• Back Panel
• Sleeves
• Pocket
-- 3-1/8Y / 2.90M +
7/8 Y / 78cm for bottom panel
NOT INCLUDED
- BIAS BINDING FOR SLEEVES & NECKLINE. 2” wide x 32”. Sleeves 2” x 26” each.
Sewing Instructions
ABACORN HACK: Abbey -- We cut off the oval curve of the front hem, eliminated the pleats at the hem, and dropped the facing to use bias binding instead. Added a bottom panel, optionally to be cut from a coordinating fabric.
Refer to diagrams on the Pattern Sheet.
• Fig. 1 You should have a front and back panel and 2 lower panels.
• Fig.2. Place the top side of the curved bottom panel onto the front panel, right sides together, and stitch. Repeat for the Back Panel. Press. Optionally top stitch.
• Fig.3. Refer to the pattern pieces for pocket placement, and pin pockets right sides together, onto both back and front tunic panels. Stitch on. Press.
• Fig.4. Place shoulders to shoulders, front and back, right sides together and stitch. Press.
• Fig.5. Prepare the sleeves, refer to the pattern piece - make 3 small pleats on either side of the sleeve as shown; and one inverted pleat at the cuff center. Baste all pleats in place.
• Fig.6. Place sleeves onto garment at shoulders, right sides together, and pin in place. Stitch, easing as you go.
• Place tunic inside out, match under arms and pin; pin under sleeves, down sides and around pockets, matching pocket corners, and match the lower panel.
• Continued on Page 29
21
XS-2X
44” W 54” W XS/S 4-1/4Y / 3.85M 3-7/8Y
3.50M
-- 3-7/8Y
4Y
/
M/L
/ 3.50M XL/2X --
/ 3.60M
Yardage 44” W 54” W XS/S 3-3/8Y /3.10M 3Y / 2.75M M/L -- 3-1/16Y
2.80M XL/2X
/
TG -A 030 S S Cu 2
Strappy Frills
We have brought STRAPPY FRILLS back to you. She’s amazing. Slip Dress and pants, optional ruffles. A sweet and casual lovely pattern. NOW FREE
TG-A6010
FREE
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24
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25
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Dress
Materials
26
I Z I N G US UK EUR
4-6
Carmel
S07/005 S
XS.... 2
34 S.... 4-6 8-10 36-38 M...... 8-10 12-14 40-22 L...... 12-14 16-18 44-46 XL.... 16-18 20-22 48-50 2X... 20-22 24-26
XS,S M,L XL,2X 54” wide 2.5Y / 2.9M 2-5/8Y / 2-1/3M 3Y / 2-3/4M 44” wide 3.5Y / 3.25M 3.5Y / 3.25M 3.5Y / 3.25M
Fabric: You can use 54” or 44” wide fabric for the Carmel Dress. Carmel
Cutting
If using 54” wide fabric -- cut the dress panel as shown, and skirt panel along the fold, also cut 4 pocket pieces and bias strips 2” wide for neckline; plus the belt piece. Larger sizes place pockets below the dress and skirt panels.
If using 44” wide fabric -- Refer to the diagram -- cut the dress panel to the vertical line shown on the pattern piece; cut the skirt the width of the fabric. Then cut two of the gray shaded area to add onto the dress panel; and two rectangles 6”x24” or 5x60cm for the skirt panel. Cut bias strips for the neckline 2” wide or 5cm wide; 4 pocket pieces and belt.
Sewing Instructions
Note: All Seams are 3/8” unless otherwise stated!
• If you cut the pieces out as instructed for 44” WIDE fabric, then add the two pieces onto the front panel; and add the rectangles onto each side of the skirt panel. All right sides together, stitch and press.
• Place two pocket panels onto the front of the dress panel, as shown in fig.1. Right sides together, stitch in place.
• Using the bias strips you cut bind the neckline as shown. Fig.2. Make sure the join is at center back, and if you have two shorter pieces make sure joins are centered toward the back side. Stitch in place. Then clip into seam allowance every 3” and then press seam allowance up onto binding, and press outer raw edge over 1/4” onto binding wrong side. Roll binding and stitch down, fig.3.
• Fig.4. Ruffle up or gather the top edge of the skirt so the skirt top equals the width of the back straight edge, see diagram 4. Pin the skirt right sides together onto the back of the dress as in fig.5. and stitch together.
Add the pockets onto the back side of the dress so when the dress is folded at the shoulder, the pockets match front to back.
Make the belt by placing the two belt pieces together
Continued next page...
27
54” W 44” W
Cara Kaftan
The original CLARA Kaftan has a swooping side seam creating body at the lower hip. It drapes well and is a fun silhouette. We hacked it a little by reshaping the side seams. It’s easy to do and you have the option of eliminating the front and back openings at the hemline. This is an easy pattern with a great back feature.
Carmel Dress Continued...
• All you have to do is reshape the side seam as shown, follow the under sleeve and the curve but then curve the line downward cutting off the point of the original line.
• Cut and follow the directions, but use a regular pocket piece at the sides.
• Optionally do not cut out the front and back openings. Either hem or bind the bottom. I like to bind this hem because it gives the kaftan some weight to it.
• We used a lightweight linen in white, and the bottom ‘original’ Clara is in a medium weight linen.
• Make the belt by placing the two belt pieces together and stitching them together along the long edges. Either turn the belt right side out for a cleaner look, or leave raw edges out. We added a scrap of fabric along the belt for fun.
• Place the belt onto the dress back along the back seam as shown in fig.7. Stitch on one side at side seam; then add onto the opposite side as shown in fig.8. This will gather up the back of the dress.
• Turn the dress inside out and match the sides and pockets, and sleeves. Stitch side seams pivoting around the pockets as shown in fig.9. And end at stop mark noted on the pattern piece.
• Hem the sleeves using a rolled hem. Stitch.
• Hem dress.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 7 8 9
ABACORN HACK Abbey
Continued from Page 21
• Fig. 7 Using the sleeve binding you precut, bind the sleeves. Pin binding strip on right side of fabric along the sleeve edge, right sides of the fabric of the binding facing the sleeve. Pin around sleeve, measure and trim, join binding at under arm seam. Pin. Stitch in place. Press seam allowance away from sleeve, fold the facing over to wrong side of binding 1/4” and press, see fig.9. Fold the folded edge over the seam allowance and meet the stitching, pin, and stitch down the binding. Tip: Pin the binding just past the first row of stitches, and stitch down.
• Repeat for the second sleeve.
• Fig 8. Bind the neckline the same way:
• Using bias binding: Pin the binding onto the garment neckline, with a seam allowance at the center back, trim off excess length. Stitch the binding together at the short ends to join (right sides together). Pin back onto garment on the inside (so right side of the binding facing the wrong side of the garment). Stitch the binding around the neckline. Press the seam allowance upward onto the binding and also press the binding raw edge over 1/4” to the wrong side of the fabric.
• Fold the binding over to the right side of the garment and pin neatly down. Starting at the center back, stitch the binding down close to the edge of the binding.
• Fig. 9. Hem the new Abbey instead of binding it as the original Abacorn.
#7 For finished edge collar, fold the bottom straight edge to wrong side 1/4” and press for both pieces. Place together, right sides together, stitch around the curved collar edge. Turn right side out and press. Pin onto the neck of the shirt, and stitch on.
#8 Or for raw edged collar - Pin one collar onto the shirt, right sides together, then place the second collar piece on the inside of the garment, wrong side of the shirt to right side of the collar. Stitch through all layers. Press collar pieces upward and pin together. Top stitch the two collar pieces together.
#9 Hem your shirt, or top stitch for a raw edge.
7 9 1 2 4 3 5 6 7 8
Milicent Continued 1 2 3 5 4 6 7 9
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Fabric Stores See pages 23-25
Print Shops See page 31
resources index
USA
FAVORITE
Print Shops OUR
Ewe Fine Fiber Goods / ewefibers.com
$2.76 USD per sheet
Ships folded
PDF Plotting
$1.39 USD per sheet, $10 minimum order
Ships rolled
Pattern Printing Company
$2.55 USD per sheet
Ships folded
Stitch Sew Shop
$5 USD for the first sheet, $2.50 per sheet after that (per pattern)
Ships folded
AUSTRALIA
Eprint Online (Brisbane)
$5 AUD minimum
Fibre Smith (Melbourne)
$4.80 AUD for the first sheet, $2.40 per sheet after that (per pattern)
MakePlanDo (Melbourne)
$3 AUD per sheet
MDM Copy and Print Centre (Melbourne)
$2 AUD per sheet
Megan Nielsen (Perth)
$3.85 AUD per sheet
Officeworks (Melbourne)
$4.35 AUD per sheet
A Sewlution
$4 AUD per sheet
CANADA
The Business Box
$4.80 CAD per sheet rolled, $5.80 CAD per sheet folded
The Fabric Snob
$4.50 CAD per sheet
Gattous Fabrics
$4 CAD per sheet rolled, $5 CAD per sheet folded
Rives Compagnie
$5 CAD per sheet
Sew YYC
$4 CAD per sheet rolled, $5 CAD per sheet folded
Spool and Spindle
$4.50 CAD per sheet
Winnipeg Sews
$4.40 CAD per sheet or $1.10 per linear foot
DENMARK
Gladprint
Prices from DKK 25,- per sheet
GERMANY
Preiswertplotten
So many to choose from. Printers for your A0 download pattern files.
1.29€ per black and white A0 sheet
Schnittherzchen
3.5€ per page for A0 printing
IRELAND
Crafty Studio
€3.00 per sheet
NETHERLANDS
Repro-plotservice.nl
€1.76 for an A0 sheet – ask for the black & white plan printing, large format.
NEW ZEALAND
ChCh Sews
$6 NZ per sheet
Niche Print
$7.25 NZ per sheet
Studio of Sewing
$7 NZ per sheet
Warehouse Stationary
$7 NZ per sheet
SOUTH AFRICA
PostNet
Nationwide chain of franchise run stores. Slight variation in prices depending on store location but A0 b&w is currently less than R30 – usually around R25.
U.K.
CLC Essex
£1.50 per sheet
Eternal Maker
£4 for the first sheet, £1 per additional sheet
Fabulosew
£2.15 per sheet
The Fold Line
£4 per pattern minimum
Flamingo Prints
£1.50 per sheet
Ships folded
Net Printer
£1.50 per sheet, £5 minimum order
Patternsy
£2.50 per sheet, £5 minimum order
PatternToPaper
£2.50 per sheet• Ships folded
Plan Printing 24
£0.75 per sheet, £5 minimum order
Plot Giant £0.75 per sheet, £5 minimum order
Print-Easy UK £2 per sheet
Printing and Plotting
£0.70 per sheet, £5 minimum order
The Savvy Sewist
£3.99 per order minimum
Wild Orchard Pattern Printing
£2.00 per sheet
THIS ISSUE
HACKS
• GINA - MELICIENT S07002
• CLARA HACK S07006
• ABACORN HACK S07004
• TIA HACK S07007
FREE WITH ISSUE
• MELBOURNE TUNIC S07001
• CARMEL DRESS S07005
• MAHOGANY SLIP S07003
NEW PATTERNS
• CHACHA
• LIZETTE
• ROCHELLE
• RUBY
• SOPHIA
• MARGRITTE
• CHENNE
FEATURED CAPSULE PATTERNS
• GINA & GINA HACK MILICIENT
• STRAPPY FRILLY Returns as Free Pattern
• PHOEBE TOP & PANT
• CARMEL (Free Pattern this issue)
• MELBOURNE TOP (Free Pattern this issue)
• MAHOGANY SLIP (Free Pattern this issue)
• CLARA HACK
• ANNABELLE
• TIA & HACK
• SUGAR SLIP
• GYPSY JACKET
• LIZBETH (PRAIRIE HACK SYCHIL 5)
• LUELLA
• MELBOURNE (Free in this issue)
• MILICIENT (Gina Hack this issue)
• ABBEY (Abacorn Hack this Issue)
• MARISHA JACKET
•
• COLOR PALETTES
• LAGENLOOK
• FABRIC SHOPS
• PLOTTER PRINTERS
• WORKSHOP SPRING FORWARD
31
SYCHIL SYCHIL.COM ISSUE 07 EXPRESS YOUR INDIVIDUALITY THROUGH STYLE • PERSPECTIVE • CRAFT • LIFE