getting to know n balearics
getting to know n balearics
Sunshine
n Binibeca, Menorca
Spain’s Balearic Islands have been the favourite stamping ground of tourists since composer Frederic Chopin. But, as long-time convert Dave Richardson points out, there is far more to this popular archipelago than high-rise resorts, bustling beaches and foam-party nightclubs
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quartet hen I ask Martin Xamena how his island, Menorca, has largely avoided the mass market hotel guests have changed over the despite having some large hotels, and is a favourite of last half century, he raises his eyefamilies. As for tiny Formentera, the fourth Balearic brows. “When I stay at a hotel I like to island, mass tourism has virtually passed it by. be served, I like a pleasant ambience The islands have been favourite holiday destinations and I like to meet civilised fellow since long before the package holiday age. Polish guests,” he says. “That’s what I try to achieve, but to composer Frederic Chopin was a notable visitor to find civilised people these days isn’t easy. Just look at Majorca in 1838 and King Juan Carlos of Spain considhow even famous people behave.” ers Majorca attractive enough for his summer holiday Civilised people? In Majorca? The Spanish island, retreat. But with cheap flights from all over Britain largest of the Balearics group, is synonymous with mass taking just two hours and extensive development along market package holidays. Like neighbouring Ibiza, it’s the coast, you have to pick your spot to enjoy the tranalso very popular with young clubbers, but Martin’s Bon quillity of the Balearics. This summer could be Sol hotel in Illetas, Majorca, offers a rather different especially busy, with the pound gaining strength against experience. The family home became a guest house in the euro and uncertainty hanging over other popular 1953 and has since been transformed with holiday spots. facilities including a major spa. The Bon family-friendly Sol is a haven of tranquillity, excellent Despite being the most developed food and, yes, civilisation. No wonder island, Majorca has been able to some guests have been coming withstand the annual influx of over every year for 50 years, and a around two million tourists simply dozen of the waiting staff have because of its size – over 2,500 been there since the 1980s. square kilometres (1,000 square Mass market, high-rise resorts miles). Mass market development is such as Magalluf and Palma Nova concentrated around the Bay of Palma in Majorca, and San Antonio in Ibiza, in the south, with the north and east are still going strong, and both islands n Market shopping coasts having many smaller and more suffer unfairly from the image these in Formentera family-friendly resorts, such as Alcudia, Puerto resorts project. The second largest Balearic
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n Font de Sa Cala, Majorca
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Summer 2012
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getting to know n balearics
n Palma's towering Gothic cathedral
10 things to do in the balearics l See Palma’s cathedral and old town. l Take a taxi to admire the view from Bellver Castle in Palma, then
former capital.
l Take the antiquated electric train from Palma to Soller, then ride a tram to Puerto Soller through the orange groves.
l Children will enjoy Palma Aquarium, near the airport. l The Caves of Drach, on Majorca’s east coast, are highly impressive.
Pollensa and Cala d’Or. The west coast is little-developed, courtesy of the Sierra Tramuntana mountains, and picturesque coastal towns such as Banyalbufar and Deia perch on the cliffs. The north-west coast is flatter; here you’ll find perhaps the prettiest coastal resort, and the one with most “local” character, Puerto Soller. Away from the mountains in the west, inland Majorca is less interesting, being mainly a plain, but with highlights including Manacor where Majorca’s famous cultivated pearls are produced. A “must” away from the resorts is the city of Palma, a city break in its own right
n The streets of Palma
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restaurant such as El Olivo.
l See the island’s wetlands, Ses Salines. l Walk or cycle around Formentera.
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especially off-season, when it is cooler and considerably less crowded. Palma is a bustling seaside city with the long Paseo Maritimo boulevard running beside the sea, past a marina brimming with luxurious yachts and a busy cruise terminal. The nearest beaches are a few miles away either on the west side, where Palma Nova and Magalluf are favoured by the British; or on the east side, near the airport, where C’an Pastilla and Arenal are distant outposts of Berlin and Frankfurt. But it’s the old city of Palma which is most worthy of attention, and that is just behind the huge Gothic cathedral which towers over the eastern end of the Paseo Maritimo. The cathedral was built between the 14th and 16th centuries, but the rose windows were created by the Catalan architect Gaudi, best known for his lavish modernist architecture in Barcelona. The maze of narrow streets behind the cathedral is a delight to wander in, and still home to thousands of people as well as bars, restaurants, boutiques and historical attractions. Don’t miss the Arab Baths, Convent of St Francis and art museum, housed in an ancient building once used by merchants. Almudaina Palace, by the cathedral, was the seat of Moorish and Catholic kings. Turismo de Mallorca
“You have to pick your spot to enjoy the tranquillity of the Balearics”
l Spend a day in Ibiza Town’s old quarter, including lunch at a top
british links Palma can easily be reached for a day trip from most Majorcan resorts, but consider staying longer if you’re into history, culture, shopping, gastronomy and nightlife. It has a lovely old Plaza Major or main square,
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Turismo de Mallorca
walk down.
l Discover the prehistoric stone tombs of Menorca. l Stroll the character-filled streets of Ciudadela, Menorca's
getting to know n balearics
getting to know n balearics
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This being Spain, it’s no surprise that eating out is high on the list of priorities, with excellent but pricey seafood throughout the islands. If you choose self-catering, don’t be afraid to cook it yourself, buying from Oliver or Santa Catalina markets in Palma, or the main markets in Ibiza Town, Mahon and Ciudadela. Majorca has really developed its foodie reputation, with many renowned restaurants not only in Palma, but throughout the island. Other specialities include roast suckling pig, sobrasada (sausage flavoured with paprika) and ensaimada, a wheel-shaped sweet pastry which many visitors take home in cardboard boxes. Food trails in Majorca introduce you to local produce including olive oil and cheese. Also look out for fish, meat and vegetable stews in Ibiza, and specialities of Menorca including partridge and cheese. Majorca has a developing wine industry, while Menorca is famous for gin.
n No high-rise blocks at Majorca's Cala Truent
n Local fare, Majorca
walking in the balearics
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n Formentera culture
with historic buildings on every side and cafes and shops dotted around, although anything bought here comes at a premium. Oliver market is well worth a browse to stock up on typical Majorcan snacks or simply admire the displays of fruit, vegetables and fish, while the main areas for fashion shopping are Paseo de Born and Avenida Jaime III. The city has lots of bars and restaurants and plenty of clubs too, mainly in the small streets near Paseo Maritimo. You might think the many large resort hotels, and big city hotels in Palma, are the only accommodation choices. But that is not so, as there are many historic, boutique and character hotels scattered around the island plus a few in Palma old town, including the Dalt Murada, closer to the cathedral. Over 20 of these belong to
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Turismo de Mallorca
Strolling along a coastal track near Banyalbufar, on the west coast of Majorca, was a heavenly experience even as early in the season as March. The sun shone strongly, the calm sea glistened and the pine woods were fragrant, yet I was less than an hour away from the big resorts near Palma. Winding up an easy two-hour walk in a village tapas bar, I took my time before taking a different route back to the welcoming Hotel Mar I Vent, run by the same family for generations. Much stiffer walks are on offer in Majorca’s mountains, with the book Walk and Eat in Mallorca (www.sunflowerbooks.co.uk) offering 10 itineraries of varying levels from Palma to Soller. All the other islands have walking tracks too, with guided walks operating in Ibiza, where the emphasis is mainly on coastal routes.
the Reis de Mallorca marketing group. Menorca is the least visited of the three main Balearic islands by British visitors, yet we have a long history here. Britain ruled Menorca three times between 1708 and 1802, with periods of French and Spanish rule in between. An unlikely link between Menorca and a foodstuff used throughout the Western world is mayonnaise, named after the main town of Mahon by the French, after they wrested control of it from Britain in 1756. The island has some excellent sandy beaches that have seen plenty of development, but nothing on the scale of the Bay of Palma in Majorca. Resorts are mainly on the south coast and include Santo Tomas, Son Bou, Cala Blanca and Cala Galdana, plus Arenal d’en Castell on the north coast. Many of the beaches are on small, fairly secluded bays, popular with families. There are plenty of villas here, too, for large families or groups of friends.
palaces and churches Menorca is essentially a place to chill out, but a trip to Mahon or the other main town, Ciudadela, may be
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rewarding. Mahon, on the east coast, is less interesting, although it’s good for shopping and has a colourful port. Ciudadela, on the west coast, has more of a historic feel as befits the island’s former capital. In the old town, you can enjoy 17th and 18th century palaces and churches, while the harbour is a delight and close to most of the nightlife. Some of Menorca’s finest and least-developed beaches are nearby, including Son Saura and Macarella, but access can be difficult. Inland Menorca is mainly farmland with plenty of cattle, the highest point reaching only 350 metres (1,150ft). If you are keen on ancient history, the interior is worth exploring in depth as it has over 1,000 megalithic monuments, mainly ancient T-shaped tombs called taulas. There are also some signs of Roman settlement. If Menorca’s image is one of peace and relaxation, the opposite could be said of Ibiza, due to its long-established clubbing scene. Huge pleasure palaces of insistent beat (and the infamous foam parties), such as Privilege and Pacha, can be found in the resort of San Antonio, capital Ibiza Town, and along the road in between. San
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Antonio is a huge clubbing resort and you’re ill-advised to go there if you’re over 30 – or even over 25. Fortunately, however, Ibiza has never attracted the worst and cheapest end of the clubbing market as in Greece and Cyprus. The reason is simple – it’s expensive. But the foam party image has put off the older visitor, despite the existence of much quieter resorts appealing to couples and families, such as Santa Eulalia, Es Cana and Playa d’en Bossa, which has the island’s longest beach. Some older people return to Ibiza year after year and see nothing of its lurid image, but as the island is fairly small – about 570 sq km (220 square miles) – it’s important to choose your resort carefully.
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eating and drinking
n Terrace bar in the Port of Ibiza
n Ibiza Town
isolated beaches
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n Copia de San-Luis Benibequer, , Menorca
Ibiza is worth exploring, with a large Phoenician archaeological site at Puig des Molins and the wetlands of Ses Salines, but most of the sightseeing is in Ibiza Town. By day – before the nightlife cranks up – it’s a charming place, with a fortified old town surrounded by
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getting to know n balearics
n Formentera's harbour
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n Dalt Vila Cathedral, Ibiza
balearics facts
Medieval walls dating from Phoenician times but rebuilt in the 16th century. There are many character restaurants here, but it can also be very crowded in peak season. And what of Formentera, smallest of the Balearic islands? It can only be reached by boat from Ibiza, and has similar wetlands. Isolated beaches and a handful of villages dot the island, the main one being the port of La Savina. It is one of the best “away from it all” experiences in Spain despite having a few large hotels, and is good for walking and cycling. The arty Spanish film, Sex and Lucia, is set here, with Formentera portrayed as having magical qualities. I must find out why one day, as my only visit so far was a day trip from Ibiza. But it will take a lot to wrench me away from my very “civilised” special places in Majorca, such as the sun terrace at the Bon Sol, walking along the west coast, or Palma’s old town. When you consider how many “new” holiday destinations have sprung up over the last 20 years but how many people still regard these islands as their favourites, the Balearics really are the great holiday survivors. Dave Richardson discovered Majorca as a young man in the 1970s, and first came to Ibiza before the clubbing craze started. He moved on to sedate Menorca and, being young at heart, he now regularly re-visits Majorca as it appeals to all tastes.
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n Soller tram, Majorca
getting there You can fly to Majorca from all major airports in Britain, with Ibiza also having good coverage and Menorca less so. Main airlines include easyJet (www.easyjet.com), Ryanair (www.ryanair.com), Monarch (www.monarch.co.uk), Thomson (www.thomson.co.uk), Thomas Cook (www.thomascook.com) and Jet2 (www.jet2.com).
getting around Car hire and buses are the way to go, with Majorca having some motorways and rail routes. Inter-island ferries are available.
tour operators These include Thomson, Thomas Cook and Cosmos (www.cosmos.co.uk). Classic Collection (www.classiccollection.co.uk) also offers many boutique hotels. Mallorca Farmhouses (www.mallorca.com) offers what it says on the tin. n Hotel complex, Formentera
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The tourist season in Menorca, Ibiza and Formentera is strictly from May to October, with only Majorca being open year-round. Spring and autumn are ideal times to visit as high summer can be very hot, with cool temperatures and rain in winter, and occasional snow in Majorca’s mountains. Palma hotels are open year-round but many Majorcan resort hotels close in winter.
Turismo de Mallorca
when to go
accommodation The Bon Sol in Illetas, Dalt Murada in Palma and Mar I Sol in Banyalbufar all belong to the Reis de Mallorca marketing group (www.reisdemallorca.com). The islands have many other accommodation options, from self-catering apartments up to five-star hotels.
tourist information Spanish Tourist Office: www.spain.info/en; 020 7317 2011
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