hit the road n highlands of scotland
Take the
high road n Driving on the Isle of Skye VisitBritain/ Rod Edwards
With its stirring scenery of rugged mountains, deep lochs, forests and islands, not to mention its many historic castles, the Highlands of Scotland make an evocative touring route. Join us for the ride… ith so much to see and do in the Scottish Highlands, you don’t want to rush a tour. It is possible to take in the main sights in a week-long circuit, but our suggested tour is a more leisurely 12 days. Beginning and ending in Edinburgh, you can either fly there and rent a car for the trip or take your own car, adding a day or two for the drive each way.
W day 1
edinburgh
VisitBritain/Britain on View
Distance: 0 miles Explore: Spend a day visiting Edinburgh’s sights.
n Colourful Tobermory
Summer 2012
Towering over the city is its world-famous icon, Edinburgh Castle (www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk), and it makes a great city tour starting point with its wonderful rampart views, atmospheric dungeons and Great Hall among highlights. The nearby Camera Obscura (www.camera-obscura.co.uk) is worth a visit, particularly for children, as is the National Museum of Scotland (www.nms.ac.uk). Stroll along the Royal Mile to Holyrood Palace (www.royalcollection.org.uk) – or the Palace of Holyroodhouse, to give the official name. Take in the sweeping vistas of the city from Arthur’s Seat. Overnight: Stay in a city-centre hotel and leave the car
there to explore Edinburgh on foot.
day 2
edinburgh-pitlochry
Distance: 70 miles Driving time: 1 hour 30 minutes plus stops The drive: A short drive today takes you via Perth to Pitlochry, perhaps stopping off en route to visit historic Dunkeld. The Highland Perthshire area around Pitlochry is beautiful, with lochs, rivers, waterfalls, glens and rugged hills. Pitlochry has many walks starting and ending in the town centre, including one to the dam on Loch Faskally to see the salmon ladder and hydro station. Go in autumn and you can catch the Enchanted Forest (www.enchantedforest.org.uk) sound and light show in Faskally Wood, which runs from October 5-27 this year. North of Pitlochry is Blair Castle (www.blair-castle.co.uk), Scotland’s most-visited historic house. You can also tour Edradour Distillery (www.edradour.co.uk) – Scotland’s smallest. Highlight: Close to Dunkeld, Loch of the Lowes (http://scottishwildlifetrust.org.uk) offers the chance to watch nesting ospreys from the visitor centre hide and see cute red squirrels. Overnight: Pitlochry has several hotels, guest houses and B&Bs.
tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk
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hit the road n highlands of scotland
n Braemar Highland Games
“The Aviemore area offers lots of adventure activities”
VisitBritain/ Andy Sewell
Distance: 100 miles Driving time: 3 hours plus stops The drive: Head north-west through Deeside via Braemar and past Scotland’s largest ski centre, Glenshee, through the Cairngorms National Park. This mountainous area was chosen by Queen Victoria as her holiday hang-out north of the border, and the Queen and other members of the Royal Family still spend several weeks of the year at Balmoral Castle. You can tour both Balmoral (www.balmoralcastle.com) and Braemar (www.braemarcastle.co.uk) castles, which are on Scotland’s Castle Trail. Visit the Braemar Highland Heritage Centre for a taste of the Highlands and stop off at the village of Tomintoul, one of Britain’s highest, to visit its fascinating museum about life on the edge of the Cairngorm Mountains. Highlight: Visit Braemar on the first Saturday in September to see the annual Braemar Gathering and Highland Games (www.braemargathering.org), featuring pipe bands, Highland dancers and sports including caber tossing. Overnight: Aviemore has a range of accommodation options.
day 4
aviemore
Distance: Local driving Explore: Spend the day exploring scenic Speyside. Take a ride on the Strathspey Steam Railway (www.strathspeyrailway.co.uk) and visit area attractions such as the Highland Folk Museum (www.highlandfolk.com), the Loch Garten Osprey Centre (www.rspb.org.uk/lochgarten), for another chance to see these magnificent birds, and Glenmore Visitor Centre (www.forestry.gov.uk), set in a native pine forest at the foot of Cairn Gorm mountain. Close by is the Cairngorm Reindeer Centre (www.cairngormreindeer.co.uk), where visitors can stroke and feed the resident reindeer. The Aviemore area offers lots of adventure activities, among them dog sledding trips on purpose-built dryland trails at the Cairngorm Sleddog Centre (www.sled-dogs.co.uk). There is also extensive walking terrain, including on Cairn Gorm. Take the Cairngorm Mountain Railway funicular (www.cairngormmountain.org) for a guided walk to the summit or down to the base station. Overnight: Aviemore.
day 5
aviemore-inverness
Distance: 100 miles Driving time: 3 hours plus stops n Edradour Distillery
The drive: Follow the Malt Whiskey Trail and visit famous distilleries such as The Glenlivet Distillery (www.theglenlivet.com), which offers a free guided
tour and tasting. See whiskey barrels being made at Britain’s only cooperage with a visitor centre, Speyside Cooperage (www.speysidecooperage.co.uk). Follow the tourist route skirting the Moray Firth to Inverness, capital of the Highlands, which passes by Cawdor Castle (www.cawdorcastle.com), of Macbeth fame, and the Culloden Battlefield (www.nts.org.uk/culloden), where there is a visitor centre and exhibition which details the bloody 1746 battle and how it led to the breakdown of the Highland clan system. Highlight: If you reach Inverness early enough, take an afternoon dolphin cruise to spot the world’s most northerly group of bottlenose dolphins. Alternatively, drive on around to the Black Isle for a close-up view from the shore at Chanonry Point, the best time being just before high tide. Overnight: Stay in the centre of Inverness. Hotels include the five-star Rocpool Reserve (http://rocpool.com).
day 6
VisitBritain/Britain on View
pitlochry-aviemore
inverness-ullapool
Distance: 200 miles Driving time: 5 hours 30 minutes plus stops n The road through Glencoe
The drive: Head south to Loch Ness after stopping off to visit the Scottish Kiltmaker Visitor Centre (www.highlandhouseoffraser.com) in Inverness, where you can see exhibitions, watch kiltmakers at work and even buy your own made-to-measure kilt. Take a Loch Ness cruise to try and spot Nessie and to visit the impressive ruins of Urquart Castle (www.historic-scotland.gov.uk). If you want to take in the full majesty of the loch, do a circular drive, with views on high from the rugged southern side. You can take the direct cross-country route to Ullapool, stopping off to visit the Highland Museum of Childhood (www.highlandmuseumofchildhood.org.uk) in the old Strathpeffer station building. Or you can take the Beauly-Dingwall-Moray Firth tourist route which loops round to Loch Fleet Nature Reserve, near Skibo Castle, before heading to west coast fishing community Ullapool – laid out by engineer Thomas Telford. Highlight: The Falls of Shin (www.fallsofshin.co.uk) are spectacular waterfalls and one of the best places in Scotland to see salmon leaping. Late summer is prime time, although they can be seen between May and November. Overnight: Stay in a hotel or B&B in Ullapool.
day 7
ullapool-skye
Distance: 190 miles Driving time: 5 hours 30 minutes plus stops The drive: Follow the coast south via Gairloch, where you can take a cruise for the chance to see resident killer whales and seals, otters and migrating humpback and minke whales. The stretch of road between Dundonnell and Poolewe is one of Scotland’s
most spectacular coastal routes. Carry on round to the Applecross Peninsula, driving the stunning Bealach na Ba mountain pass, for a pit stop or optional overnight in Applecross village with views over the sea to Skye. Book ahead if you want a meal at the award-winning Applecross Inn (www.applecross.uk.com/inn). Then tackle the pass again on your way to Skye via its road bridge. Highlight: Bealach na Ba, or Bealach nam Bo as it is also known, is Britain’s only true alpine road. Zigzagging to over 2,050ft (625m) from sea level in five miles, it is all single track and is not for the fainthearted – as warning signs at the start point out. Overnight: Stay in Portree on the Isle of Skye; otherwise stop for the night at the Applecross Inn, which has seven B&B rooms.
day 8
train will be familiar to Harry Potter fans, as it was used as the Hogwarts Express. Highlight: Ben Nevis looms over Fort William and you can take the Nevis Range Mountain Resort gondola 2,130ft (650m) up for panoramic views and mountain walks or to dine on high in its restaurant. www.nevisrange.co.uk Overnight: Fort William has a wide range of hotels, including the luxury Inverlochy Castle Hotel (www.inverlochycastlehotel.com), as well as many B&Bs.
day 9
fort william-tobermory
Distance: 140 miles Driving time: 5 hours 30 minutes plus stops (including ferry to Mull)
skye-fort william
Distance: 150 miles Driving time: 4 hours plus stops The drive: Explore Skye’s Trotternish Peninsula first thing, then hit the road back to the mainland. On the way, stop off to take a guided tour of Eilean Donan Castle (www.eileandonancastle.com) – one of Scotland’s most iconic and beautiful castles, situated on an island in Loch Duich and reached via a causeway. Fort William, at the southern end of the Great Glen, is a major tourist centre with plenty of things to do and see. If you have the time, take the Jacobite Steam Train (www.westcoastrailways.co.uk/jacobite/Jacobite_Steam_Train.html) on the spectacular six-hour round trip to Mallaig. The
The drive: Instead of heading straight down the coast to Oban, take a detour at Loch Leven through Glencoe on the A82, looping back to the coast on the A85. Glencoe not only has some of the most dramatic scenery in Scotland, particularly if there are dark clouds above it, but it is also the scene of one of Scotland’s darkest moments – the infamous massacre of MacDonald clansmen by British soldiers in 1692. Much of Glencoe is owned by the National Trust for Scotland (www.glencoe-nts.org.uk) and a visitor centre tells the story of the valley’s landscape and history. Take the chairlift up 2,200ft (670m) to the top of Glencoe Mountain Resort (www.glencoemountain.com) for stunning views of Glencoe and desolate Rannoch Moor.
VisitBritain/Rod Edwards
day 3
hit the road n highlands of scotland
n Highland cow
VisitBritain/Gary Latham
28 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine
www.tlm-magazine.co.uk
Summer 2012
Summer 2012
tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk
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hit the road n highlands of scotland
nLoch Ness
You could head up the Loch Linnhe coast to visit the Scottish Sea Life Sanctuary (www.sealsanctuary.co.uk/oban1.html), which has an aquarium and rehabilitates seal pups, before taking the ferry from Oban to Mull. Highlight: Mull’s main town, Tobermory, is the most picturesque on Scotland’s west coast, with its brightlycoloured houses lining the harbour. Mull is a wildlife haven and home to both golden eagles and white-tailed sea eagles. Overnight: Tobermory: accommodation ranges from self-catering and B&Bs to hotels.
day 10
tobermory-loch lomond
Distance: 140 miles Driving time: 4 hours 30 minutes plus stops (including ferry from Mull) The drive: Explore some of Mull’s heritage and sights, then board the ferry at Craignure for the 45-minute crossing back to Oban. From there, follow the scenic coast tourist route south to Loch Fynne, Scotland’s longest sea loch, and the beautiful and historic town of Inveraray. Among its attractions are the fascinating Inveraray Jail & County Court (www.inverarayjail.co.uk) and the magnificent Inveraray Castle (www.inveraray-castle.com), home to the Duke of Argyll. Head on to Loch Lomond, skirting the Argyll Forest. Highlight: Take a cruise on Loch Lomond from several points. The largest lake in the UK, it measures 27 miles (43km) long by up to five miles (8km) wide and has nearly 40 islands. Overnight: Balloch, at the southern end, is Loch Lomond’s main tourism centre and has most accommodation options.
day 11
loch lomond-stirling
Distance: 80 miles (including Trossachs loop) Driving time: 2 hours 30 minutes plus stops The drive: The landscape of the Trossachs and Lomond is among the most scenic and iconic in Scotland, recognised by the creation of the Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park (www.lochlomond-trossachs.org) 10 years ago to
30 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine
www.tlm-magazine.co.uk
driving distance The suggested circular driving route from Edinburgh through the Highlands totals around 1,250 miles (just over 2,000km), not including local driving. Getting to and from Edinburgh by car from London will add another 800 miles (about 1,290km) to the total. Or you can fly to Edinburgh and rent a car. driving tours Driving in the Highlands is generally on good quality roads but major routes can be busy. Several companies put together personalised self-drive Highland tours. They include Scotland Made Easy (www.scotlandmadeeasy.co.uk), Absolute Escapes (www.absoluteescapes.com) and Secret Scotland (www.secret-scotland.com). Information Get more information from sites including Undiscovered Scotland (www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk) and Scotland in a Week (www.scotlandinaweek.com), who also provide guide services. Tourism information sites include VisitScotland (www.visitscotland.com) and the official VisitScotland Highlands site (www.visithighlands.com).
n Eilean Donan Castle
conserve its 720 square miles (1,865 sq km). The heathercovered hills and mountains are as typically Scottish a scene as the Highland cattle you encounter here. Take a leisurely exploration of the area, visiting places including the Trossachs Discovery Centre and Loch Katrine (www.lochkatrine.com), where you can cruise on the steamship Sir Walter Scott. It is named after the author who romanticised the region and turned a local 18th century outlaw, Rob Roy, into a global hero through his books. You can see Rob Roy’s grave in a churchyard at the village of Balquhidder and learn more about him in the Rob Roy & Trossachs Visitor Centre in Callander. Head on to Stirling via Dunblane. Highlight: An imposing edifice, Stirling Castle (www.stirlingcastle.gov.uk) is a must-visit and its position atop an extinct volcano even rivals mighty Edinburgh Castle. Overnight: Take your pick from Stirling’s vast array of places to stay.
day 12
stirling-edinburgh
Distance: 40 miles Driving time: 1 hour plus stops The drive: Head back to Edinburgh on the A9 tourist route, passing the site of the Battle of Bannockburn, fought in 1314, en route.
Summer 2012
VisitBritain/ Rod Edwards
when to go Snow is possible in the Highlands right up until late spring and from autumn, but you can also get very settled periods of n Walking on the Isle weather outside the main summer of Skye tourist season.
VisitBritain/ Dennis Hardley
www.scottishviewpoint.com
scottish highlands driving facts