getting to know Turkey by tlm magazine

getting to know ■ Turkey’s Mediterranean resorts

Med to make your

mouth water

Cosmos

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We had intended to spend only a few days in this village, where the road ends – literally. The settlement’s position on the site of ancient Myndos means that development is severely restricted. Accommodation is limited to village houses, a few apartments and a couple of pensions. Many of the houses and most of Gumusluk’s handful of shops and restaurants are accessed directly from the beach, which acts as the village’s main thoroughfare. And with very little passing traffic – save for a few Bodrum visitors to Gumusluk’s renowned fish restaurants each day – the beach is more country lane than high street. Our “few days” in Gumusluk turned into two weeks. Apart from a trip to the market in Bodrum, we rarely ventured out of the village – such is its halcyon-like grip. With the garden gate of our stone cottage opening

Spring 2011

■ Aspendos amphitheatre

Peter Ellegard

asan was tinkering with the engine of his little boat before taking us for a trip around the bay. He assured us that he only did this for friends. We didn’t like to tell him that it seemed everyone was a friend in Gumusluk. In the space of just a couple of days in this idyllic village on the tip of the Bodrum peninsula, the staff of one of the restaurants had taken us swimming and the local baker had shared yoghurt and freshly-picked almonds with us. Now the owner of the village antiques shop was about to take us for a late-afternoon jaunt on his boat. Turkey is famous for its hospitality. It doesn’t come any warmer than in Gumusluk, which has largely avoided the tourism trappings of Bodrum just 40 minutes away.

■ The stunning beach and lagoon at Oludeniz

directly onto the beach, days began with an early-morning swim. Then it was a few strides along the beach to buy fresh bread, yoghurt and apricots for breakfast. The rest of the day was distinctly lazy and hazy, with the odd break for kayaking in the bay or walking over the headland to explore meadows, cliff-top paths and remote coves. It was a rare walk when we didn’t stumble across tiny patches of ancient mosaics in the fields around the village. We could have headed for bigger and busier resorts along the coast. We could have swapped weed-covered mosaics for more impressive historic sites such as Ephesus. Turkey’s popularity has boomed in the last couple of years as holidaymakers look for good value outside the eurozone. But Gumusluk is proof that Turkey is big enough to cater for all types of traveller – on and off the beaten track. The country covers an area three times the size of the UK and has more than 2,700 miles of Aegean and Mediterranean coastline. Beach resorts are served by the four main gateway airports at Izmir, Bodrum, Dalaman and Antalya.

■ Antalya yacht harbour Starwood Hotels and Resorts

Turkey has soared in popularity as a holiday destination, thanks to its excellent value and the range of resorts it offers all round its coast. Howard Carr gives a guided tour

tlm ■ the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk

getting to know ■ Turkey’s Mediterranean resorts

magical history tours

village stays Beautifully restored stone houses, full of character and history, make a refreshing alternative to modern hotels for holidaymakers who want to immerse themselves in village life. The rural Kaya Valley in the hills above Fethiye offers lots of options. Strict conservation rules mean there are no large hotels. Accommodation is limited to renovated houses in tiny villages. The biggest nod to tourism is the deserted village of Kayakoy, which attracts day-trippers from the coast. The settlement was abandoned after the Greco-Turkish war in the 1920s. The valley offers many scenic walks.

Among the most scenic is a hike through pine forest to Afkule, an ancient monastery carved into a cliff overlooking the sea. Should the bright lights beckon, Fethiye is just five miles from the Kaya Valley and Oludeniz, seven miles. Other areas with a good selection of village houses for rent include the Bodrum and Datca peninsulas. Most houses are well-equipped, with facilities often including washing machines, dishwashers and airconditioning. Maid service is usually provided at least every few days to tidy up and change linen.

Gumusluk and Yalikavak are among the quietest places on the peninsula.

■ Ephesus is the Mediterranean’s best-preserved classical city

Turkey claims to have more Greek ruins than Greece and more ancient Roman sites than Italy. There are so many historic attractions that wherever you choose to stay, you are bound to stumble across mosaics, tombs, statues or the odd amphitheatre or two. But the size of the country means it’s unlikely you will be able to pack all the main ancient sites into one holiday. If you’re keen to combine a beach stay with a visit to a particular attraction, choose your resort carefully to ensure it’s within easy reach. Top sites are: Ephesus: The best-preserved classical city in the whole of the Mediterranean covers a large area, so ditch the flip-flops in favour of comfortable shoes. Troy: Not even Brad Pitt could make the ancient site of Troy as popular as Ephesus with holidaymakers but that is largely due to the legendary city’s position on the northern Aegean coast – a lengthy drive from any resort south of Izmir. Hierapolis: The ruins of the ancient spa town sit alongside Pamukkale, a spectacular series of white terraces that are a popular attraction for daytrippers from Kusadasi, Altinkum and Bodrum. Didyma: One of the ancient world’s most sacred places, near Altinkum, was built in the 7th century BC and restored by Alexander the Great. Aspendos: Thirty miles east of Antalya, this impressive Roman site boasts a beautifullypreserved amphitheatre and aqueduct. Perge: One of Turkey’s best-preserved archaeological sites, 10 miles from Antalya, this was a major city of ancient Pamphylia. It was used by Alexander as a base but most ruins date from later Roman times and include a theatre.

Colin Antill/Fotossker.com

Anatolian Sky

■ Village life in Alacati, near Izmir

■ Perge ruins

■ Didyma, near Altinkum

■ Temple of Apollo at Side, near Antalya

Exclusive Escapes

■ Kas Harbour

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cradled by a stunning lagoon. Most of the area immediately bordering the lagoon is protected, meaning that most accommodation is set back from the beach. Because development at Oludeniz is heavily restricted, nearby Hisaronu has grown into a lively resort. A more relaxed option for families and older couples is

Spring 2011

Calis Beach, the nearest stretch of sand to Fethiye. Further west, Patara has the longest beach in Turkey – 14 miles of white sand backed by dunes and mimosa bushes. The harbour towns of Kas and Kalkan have grown into upmarket resorts with swanky boutique hotels and luxury villas.

Spring 2011

■ Antalya’s harbour

Turkish Culture and Tourism Office

Cosmos

Anatolian Sky

Dalaman is the gateway to many of Turkey’s most popular resorts. They include the Brits’ favourite, Marmaris. Bustling, neon-lit and with a busy harbour, this is definitely not a resort for those in search of a quiet holiday. Nearby Icmeler is popular with families because of its sandy beach and shallow waters. It has a wide range of hotels and apartments but has more of a relaxing, laidback atmosphere than Marmaris. Small, family-run hotels make up most of the accommodation in Turunc, reached by a steep, winding road. The beautiful Datca peninsula remains relatively undiscovered despite its proximity to Marmaris. Few tourists venture off the main coast road to explore the pretty countryside and traditional villages. Further south, Oludeniz – near the attractive town of Fethiye – boasts one of the country’s best beaches

Peter Ellegard

dalaman area

antalya area Oodles of winter sun make Antalya Turkey’s only major year-round beach holiday destination. The Turkish government has invested heavily in the region’s tourism infrastructure over the last few years. A focus on four and five-star hotels is designed to rid the

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