JCK Who's Who - January 2014 by Manifest

SPECIAL Marketing Supplement

Market Watch What You're Buying and Selling in 2014

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY DECEMBER 2013–JANUARY 2014 • JCKONLINE.COM

WH ’S WH In-depth industry interviews and profiles Go behind jewelry’s biggest brands as designers and manufacturers share the stories behind their companies, their inspirations, and their best-selling designs

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CONTENTS December 2013–January 2014

8 A Buyer’s Market An optimistic jewelry industry says bring on 2014. BY KRISTIN YOUNG

DESIGNERS IN PROFILE

16 Coast Diamond 18 Dino Lonzano 20 Elisa Ilana 22 Gabriel & Co. 24 Goldstein Diamonds 26 Jye’s International 28 Lauren G Adams 30 Le Vian 32 Mi Moneda 34 Rahaminov 36 Royal Chain Group 38 Shree Ramkrishna Exports Pvt. Ltd. 40 Ti Sento Milano

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Lollies green agate evil eye necklace with CZ detail; $460; Elisa Ilana Jewelry, Omaha, Neb.; 402-926-3479; elisailana.com

On the cover: Floral ring with white and fancy color diamonds; $44,000; Rahaminov, Los Angeles; 800-742-8864; rahaminov.com; 18k gold and sterling silver Heritage link bracelet by Phillip Gavriel; $500; Royal Chain Group, NYC; 212-382-3340; royalchain.com

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Sooner or later, the world’s most extraordinary gems will cross paths with

RAHUL KADAKIA. Here, Christie’s Senior VP, Head of Jewelry Americas, shares priceless insight into the jewelry business and the value of an expert education.

A master eye for gems … born or made? Coming from four generations of jewelers undoubtedly piqued my interest in this great business. But one needs to constantly train their eye by looking at gems – the more you learn, the better you will be at identifying and pricing gems, as well as being an effective salesperson and well-rounded businessman. Something most people don’t know about you. GIA is what brought me to Christie’s. After studying in Santa Monica, I attended a GIA Career Fair where I had my ﬁrst interview with the company.

Ok. Deﬁnitely a story there? I started work when I was 17 and ﬁve years into it, I thought I knew pretty much everything there was to know … until I enrolled at GIA. The Institute’s meticulous training and high standards exposed me to a whole new world of expertise.

Ultimate sales edge … emotion or expertise? Jewelry is an emotional shopping experience, but expertise plays a decisive role. It’s wonderful to show people a brilliant diamond, but it means more when you can follow up with a skillful explanation of the 4Cs exempliﬁed in that particular gem.

Lean economy. Less jewelry? At the nexus of the downturn in late 2008, we sold the Wittelsbach Blue Diamond for $24 million, a world record price back then for any gem ever sold at auction. When you have great gems and jewels, the money makes itself available.

Any advice to the up and coming? Don’t lose the passion that brought you to this business, and above all, keep learning every day.

GIA gratefully acknowledges those who use our resources to further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU

18k white gold and black rhodium pavé blue sapphire Lacey Moth ring with moonstones; $42,500; Loree Rodkin, Chicago; 310-273-7367; loreerodkin.com

A BUYER’S

An optimistic industry says bring on 2014! BY KRISTIN YOUNG Retailers and manufacturers are raising a glass to 2014, cheered by better-than-expected sales in 2013, which buoyed expectations for the holidays. Their mood? Bullish. Even those located in parts of the country that are trailing the big cities in economic recovery are noticing bright spots. The only ﬂy in the ointment is another possible budget bout among politicians in Washington and more than a few shared concerns about the Affordable Care Act and its effect on consumer spending. (As of press time, legislators were close to reaching a compromise that would avert a January government shutdown.) All in all, however, retailers are telling a very different story than they did a few years ago. “Our summer was way ahead of past summers and

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I’m booked straight through for Christmas,” says Dennis deJonghe, designer and owner of deJonghe Original Jewelry in Saratoga Springs, N.Y. “In 2014, we think it’s going to continue.” Dallas’ Stanley Korshak just came off “the best October in the store’s history,” says ﬁne jewelry buyer Melissa Geiser, mentioning pent-up demand coupled with the rise in stock market and oil prices as factors contributing to consumers’ conﬁdence. “It feels good to be bullish again. If it holds up, we could be back to 2007 levels. It just seems our regulars are spending. Those anomaly sales are happening and happening more often.” Collins Family Jewelers in in San Diego also had a banner summer, a surprise to husband-and-wife owners Bill and

MARKET Cynthia Collins. The store is selling primarily rose gold— watches, rings, men’s wedding bands, and diamond jewelry. Yellow gold is making a comeback among the 22- to 30-year-olds. “We say yes to everything,” says daughter and buyer Briana Collins, adding that Yelp reviews have facilitated business but also compel the family to stay on point 24/7. “We say yes to every job,” she says. “Whether it’s a $10,000 ring or a battery, business is business no matter what. It’s caring about your customers.” The rising tide appears to be floating all boats. Rahaminov Diamonds president Amir Goldfiner, who spoke with JCK the night before departing on a buying trip to Israel, reports that retailers are buying again and appear to be more “comfortable” and more “confident.” The Los Angeles manufacturer specializes in fancy colored diamonds—yellow, pink, blue, and green—with sales that can hit six digits wholesale. “This holiday is going to be very strong and I believe in big inventory,” Goldfiner says. “This year was a strong year for us and I think 2014 will be even better.”

Retailers from coast to coast are painting a similar picture: Consumers are willing to spend, but they are putting the product through the paces, weighing its perceived value. Is the setting worth the price? Would another metal bring down the cost? Does it look more expensive than it is? Is it a classic, timeless piece that will last for generations? Is it forward in terms of design? Price points are all over the map. DeJonghe reports seeing sales from affordable pieces that retail for $160 to one-of-a-kind items that sell for $7,000 to $10,000. “The frivolous sale may no longer be there like it was 10 years ago,” he explains. “But people are not afraid to spend money. They want value, a certain quality for the dollars they spend.” Value for the dollar is the driving trend in Morganton, N.C., too, where consumers at Gregory Jewelers gravitate toward halo pavé engagement rings. ”It’s a big look for a smaller amount of money—small stones clustered together to make it look like one big rock,” says president Steve Gregory. “Like everyone else, we’re selling loads of

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Sterling silver bracelet with golden drusy squares; $435; Frederic Duclos, Huntington Beach, Calif.; 866-898-3636; fredericduclos.com

14k white gold Rhythm of Love double loop pendant with 0.63 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,699; Clodius & Co., Rockford, Ill.; 815-227-1200; clodiusco.com

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silver,” he adds, predicting sterling with diamonds will be the big ticket item over the holidays and beyond. “My silver line is doing incredible because it’s $100 to $500 retail,” says Marty Mease, a sales rep for designer Frederic Duclos. “It’s a product that’s manufactured in Europe and works well in the Midwest. It’s rhodium-plated and maintenance-free.” Overall, the $200 price point appears to be the sweetest spot, but Mease has heard talk of some impressive sales: an 8 ct. diamond for $20,000, a 3 ct. Burmese ruby for $100,000, and a 4 ct. alexandrite he estimates brought in $50,000 or more. “Retailers are looking to try higher price points,” says Phillip Gabriel Maroof, creative director at the

Royal Chain Group. “They’ve been selling entrylevel price points, but now with gold being more reasonable, they can sell a slightly higher ticket than they could with silver and other metals.” That said, Maroof concedes gold is still expensive and silver is a natural alternative—retailers can move anything that has a high perceived value and falls under the $500 mark, he says. LaFonn, which uses low-cost materials to create pieces that look like ﬁne jewelry, is captivating consumers at Clodius & Co. Jewelers in Rockford, Ill., says Mark Clodius, co-owner with wife Monika Clodius. “It’s well-crafted and with a high-quality hand setting, it looks important,” he says. “I think that

Magic 8 rhodium long huggie earrings with enamel and CZ pavé; $195; Lauren G Adams, Hollywood, Fla.; 954-367-1500; laurengadams.com

value and feeling like it’s going to last is where we’re trending.” Clodius also is promoting and selling The Rhythm of Love collection, featuring a suspended diamond in the center that vibrates “with the beat of her heart,” in price points between $500 and $2,000. “I’ve been in jewelry 30 to 40 years now and it’s the first really brand-new product we’ve had,” he says. Eddie LeVian, CEO at Le Vian in Great Neck, N.Y., says consumers’ concern with value means saving for that one big purchase instead of buying a number of low-end products. He believes retailers finally have caught on to Le Vian’s advantages, namely branding, quality, and design. “The jewelry industry faced extinction in the last five years,” he says. “But

the industry is ﬁnally realizing that its salvation from the takeover of low-cost countries is branding. If the industry only decides to compete generically—my bag of rice is cheaper than your bag of rice—than they will be doomed. But if the industry decides to, instead of trashing intellectual property, come out with new ideas and new concepts, then we will all beneﬁt and it will make the category more interesting to consumers. If companies go after originality, brands, and quality, not only will that strengthen the foundation of their businesses, they can compete with other luxury items, beyond jewelry.” With production costs rising in China and India, LeVian says it makes sense to manufacture in the

18k white gold contemporary halo engagement ring with 0.85 ct. t.w. diamonds; $3,840; Gabriel & Co., NYC; 800-886-5422; gabrielny.com

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Chocolatier Gladiator Weave ring in 14k Strawberry Gold with Vanilla Diamonds and Chocolate Diamonds; $3,499; Le Vian, Great Neck, N.Y., 877-253-8426, levian.com

Deco diamond dial watch in rose gold; $2,645; Michele, Richardson, Texas; 800-522-TIME; michele.com

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United States: “We’re never going to be the lowest cost production country, but Americans can be the most innovative and the most original.” At Stanley Korshak, American designer brands, including Loree Rodkin, Darlene De Sedle, Ted Meuhling, Dana Kellin, and up-and-comer Sally Sohn are among the best sellers. Yellow gold, diamond slices, rough cuts, black diamonds, multicolored stones, and “anything to do with diamonds,” is doing well, says Geiser. “It doesn’t matter if it’s necklaces, big diamond rings, a funky lariat, or a great necklace, both yellow gold and diamonds are important.” Rose gold is still an option, but it’s taking a backseat to white, black, and yellow gold, in that order, she says. Fine jewelry at Stanley Korshak tends to mirror

fashion trends. But in other areas, the line between ﬁne and fashion appears to be fading. Consumers are progressively embracing nonprecious metals like brass or bronze. Maroof sees the resurgence of gold as an important factor in 2014, but he also expects a greater acceptance of nonprecious metals at retail. “Many retailers have done silver for a few years now,” he says. “As our industry becomes a fashion industry, so fashion designers are breaking into the ﬁne jewelry world. The next level will be a nonprecious metal. We’ll see if they warm up to that concept.” Renee Boston, brand manager at Lauren G Adams—which uses various nonprecious metals, particularly enamel, in its styles—says she already is experiencing greater interest from retailers that had

Stil Novo 14k gold Italian textured teardrop earrings; $349; Royal Chain Group, NYC; 212-382-3340; royalchain.com

shut the door in the past. “Now they’re begging us to take over the sales of diamonds and gold,” she says. “We have hundreds of different colors we can use, mixing metals with enamel to make it look artistic. People are more into fashion jewelry. They want something they can afford.” Some retailers are identifying even more growth opportunities. Mease says retailers have an advantage in colored stones—something that consumers have a harder time seeing and purchasing on the Internet—and Chinese freshwater pearls. “That’s a staple in the jewelry business as far as I’m concerned,” he says. “Now, they’re incredibly reasonable; the best freshwater 18-inch strand sells for $300 to $400. Every gal could use a strand.”

Still others continue to focus on the fundamentals of jewelry retailing. Clodius, for example, touts his strong repair service—something people always need no matter the economic climate. “And we can make grandma’s ring into a new ring for you,” he says. While he is “unsettled” by the goings-on in Washington, Clodius remains an optimist. “I believe coming out of the recession is likely to take a few more years and it requires that nothing really goes bad.” Gregory believes the average person will remain cautious in 2014 as a result of the unknowns related to the new health care law. “I think we’re going to have to make every sale count and watch our inventory levels,” he says. “I think those of us who do that will be okay in 2014.” ■

Earrings in 14k gold with grey and black diamonds; $1,100; Dana Kellin at Fragments, NYC; 212-226-8878; fragments.com

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Design 14k rose gold heart necklace $149; Royal Chain Group, NYC; 212-382-3340; royalchain.com

Meet the personalities behind the jewelry industry’s hottest brands If you’ve spent any amount of time in the jewelry industry, you’ve probably heard of Eddie LeVian, the CEO of Le Vian Corp., one of the country’s largest jewelry manufacturers. But did you know that his first job, at the age of 13, was delivering medicine to the elderly during the winter—and that his favorite movie is Midnight in Paris? By the same token, you’ve probably run across David Goldstein, the owner of Goldstein Diamonds, at trade shows or industry events. But you may not have known that he imports highly trained German Shepherds and trains with them when he’s not golfing. Designer Julian Rotstein, the founder of Ti Sento Milano brand, has a weakness for Cuban food from Little Miami’s famed Calle Ocho café—and recently updated his brand’s 2014 fashion jewelry collection by adding denim (yes, that’s right, actual denim fabric) into his silver jewelry styles. Meanwhile, Michelle Mentrop, the cofounder of Mi Moneda, is partial to the Iberico ham (not to mention the snazzy shoes) sold in Madrid, the capital of the country that gives her designing inspiration. The profiles that make up JCK’s 2014 Who’s Who supplement shed light on the personalities behind today’s most fashionable designer jewelry collections as well as the brand values that underpin each company’s products. We invite you to turn the page and get to know the movers and shakers of the industry. You never know what you might have in common!

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WHO’S WHO: COAST DIAMOND

Jay Gilbert, president of Coast Diamond, says he’s conservative, yet eclectic, words that perfectly describe the diamond and gemstone jewelry that bears his brand. When he started in the business some four decades ago, he was fortunate to meet a European master jeweler, who schooled him in the most important aspects of designing ﬁne jewelry. Gilbert says he stays in tune with the times, yet always keeps an eye on the future. For example, in addition to his best selling diamond engagement rings and colored gemstone pieces, he plans to increase his output of exclusive, high-end designs.

Your best selling piece of jewelry: All of our halo engagement rings.

Platinum and diamond halo engagement ring

COAST DIAMOND A Classic Vision of Grace and Elegance Number of years in the biz: 40 Number of employees you oversee: 30 Number of locations: 1 Do you manufacture in the USA? Yes,

How did you get started in the jewelry business? I started in the

Exercise regimen: I am a Pilates devotee— What’s on your bucket list? To visit

and overseas

diamond business and fortuitously met a master European jeweler who schooled me in the ﬁner points of designing ﬁne jewelry.

Where do you see your company in 10 years? Doing more very high-end

If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing? Wow…so

jewelry

many things to do!

Current product offerings: Our platinum and gold bridal engagement rings and wedding bands are our main focus. We also design beautiful gem colored stone jewelry.

Family and pets: An amazing wife, sister, mother, many cats, and two cockatiels. Jewelry you’re wearing right now: My platinum hand-engraved wedding band Five items on your desk right now: A water bottle, unheated sapphires, a loupe, an energy bar, and The Wheel of Time. Five songs on your playlist: “I Will Wait,” by Mumford and Sons; “Somebody I Used to Know,” by Gotye; “Draw the Line,” by David Gray; “Let Her Go,” by Passenger; “Home,” by Phillip Phillips. I still listen to everything from Bob Dylan, Ella Fitzgerald, Sam Cooke, and Bob Marley.

What jewelry are you best known for? Our bridal engagement rings and wedding bands. Our colored stone jewelry is growing rapidly.

Describe your personal style: Conservative, yet eclectic. I am comfortable almost anywhere.

Describe your inspiration for your jewelry: I am enamored with classic,

and I enjoy walking in my neighborhood. Llasa in Tibet and sail the Mediterranean for a month.

What are you watching on TV? Boardwalk Empire, Homeland, and win or lose, the Lakers and Dodgers. Favorite movie: My favorite movies have increased over the years, but I would have to say Casablanca and American Graffiti are classics I can always see again. Favorite pastime: Listening to music Guilty pleasure: Chocolate cake How do you unwind? Walking and listening to music is good for the soul. Superstitious? No, but I don’t recommend walking under ladders. Personal motto: Everything will be okay in the end. If it’s not okay, it’s not the end. Biggest joy in your life: There are too many to list! Double halo rose and white gold engagement ring

timeless designs. I admire the delicate designs and graceful feel of the ﬁne jewelry from the ’20s and ’30s.

Single piece of jewelry you’re proudest of: My wife’s engagement ring Best piece of advice you’ve ever received: Always accept responsibility for your actions. Gem aquamarine and diamond ring set in white gold

First job ever: I worked as a playground director at a grammar school. The job was very rewarding.

Llasa, Tibet PORTRAIT: ROBERT MERRILL; DOUBLE HALO RING: LAISAY BOND; PLATINUM HALO RING: DIAMOND GRAPHICS; GEM AQUAMARINE RING: LAISAY BOND; POTALA PALACE: ISTOCK BY GETTY IMAGES; CASABLANCA POSTER: MOVIE POSTER DB.COM; CHOCOLATE CAKE: ISTOCK BY GETTY IMAGES

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Centurion, Scottsdale, AZ | LUXURY & JCK Las Vegas www.coastdiamond.com

WHO’S WHO: DINO LONZANO

He’s a 21st century Renaissance man who began his jewelry career instinctively. Dino Lonzano says he designed his ﬁrst piece of jewelry for a girlfriend in the second grade. By age 15, while accompanying his mother to her favorite jewelry store, he designed and sold a diamond-and-ruby pendant to a famous American basketball player. By then, there was no turning back. Among his many designs, his favorite is a WWII Militaria watch made from salvaged parts from a B17 bomber. It marked the beginning of a bestselling collection. He describes his personal style as “a cross between deconstructed American industrial and Italian classics.”

DINO LONZANO Number of employees you oversee: Directly I oversee the three musketeers who perform the job of a small army. Number of locations: 1 brownstone in Washington D.C. on M Street. Do you manufacture in the USA? U.S. and Europe Elevator pitch: Our art is our enterprise. Our commitment to excellence begins and ends with our product. Our belief is that ﬁne jewelry and time products value is derived from careful, manual artistry rather than a mass-produced commodity. Our brand is constantly evolving; we proudly introduce our Americana WWII watch, the Militaria collection. We make an American product rich in sentiment, design, and quality.

What jewelry are you best known for? Washington D.C. proudly represents the Dino Lonzano unique diamond bridal line. Outside D.C.; our Vintage WWII Militaria watch collection.

Describe your personal style: A style that is undeﬁned, incorporating the Italian classics ﬁnely tailored and executed to detailed perfection to an unleashed edge of industrial Americana, deconstructed and poetically rouge. Guilty pleasure: Pizza and Oreo cookies. What’s on your bucket list? Trip to the moon Book you’re reading: John Le Carre’s The Spy Who Came in from the Cold Personal motto: Walk as if in dreams awake

a diamond and ruby #34 pendant, and my second client who completely made me forget about my ﬁrst was a well-dressed, very sexy and voluptuous lady, whom I assisted with trying on a diamond pendant solitaire, I didn’t make the sale, yet I will never forget her perfume.

Describe your inspiration for your jewelry: International museums, Mother Nature, airplane graveyards, industrial plants, the national anthem, gears, and sometimes simply what’s in front of you.

First piece you ever designed: In the second grade I made my girlfriend, Jennifer Casey, a genuine greenware pottery ring, hand decorated with ﬂowers in enameled hues of ocean blue and pastel yellow. Good old art class, who knew?

If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing? Flying helicopters for the Coast Guard, creating indie ﬁlms, or a Formula 1 race car driver. Family and pets: Recently married to my gorgeous and devoted European wife, Rayna, and looking forward to starting a family. As my mother said, it’s about time.

Single piece of jewelry you’re proudest of: My ﬁrst handmade Militaria watch, which was engineered from salvaged metal parts from a WWII B-17 bomber and leather from WWII ammo pouches, sold for $52,000 for charity to beneﬁt wounded soldiers; very proud.

Jewelry you’re wearing right now: Rayna and Dino Lonzano

Your Best Selling Piece of Jewelry: 47mm Lighning P-38 Militaria watch. Favorite movie: Once Upon a Time in America Preferred news source: NPR Radio, I’m a Washingtonian.

How did you get started in the jewelry business? At the age of 15 my mother offered to let me drive her new BMW if I accompanied her to Sunday mass (bribe), so I did. After church we went to her jewelers. As soon as we walked in, he tossed me a set of keys and said “Nice suit kid, only show one piece at a time.” My very ﬁrst client was Len Bias, a famous basketball player for UM, whom I designed

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47mm Vintage Lighning P-38 Militaria watch

40mmWar Hawk P-40 Militaria watch with a camo nato strap and a 3 mm rounded platinum wedding band. Five items on your desk now: WWII aircraft gauges, a black-and-white photo of my family when they migrated to the U.S. from Italy, a vintage desk clock, box of Cuban Monte Cristo cigars, and Starbucks. Favorite pastime: Currently restoring “Eleanor”, a 67 Fastback Ford Mustang How do you unwind? Ride two wheels with or without an engine, surf, deep sea ﬁshing, disconnect on Smith Island, or simply drive really fast

Who would play you in your life story? Hugh Jackman Biggest joy in your life: Working with my wife Rayna and watching our business and designs constantly evolve.

When you drag her away from her favorite sea salt and caramel gelato, you will ﬁnd entrepreneur Laurie Langdon busily planning her next collection of jewelry. Her start in the industry was quite by accident, however, today Elisa Ilana—“The most colorful name in jewelry”, is on the cutting edge of new jewelry trends. In addition to her Elisa Ilana brand, Laurie runs a very successful retail store. The Elisa Ilana Mothers Bracelet collection is her best selling design, but her pride and joy (in addition to her son, Adam) is the Elisa Ilana Signature bracelet, which was recently selected by the Hollywood Foreign Press for the Golden Globe Awards.

Single piece of jewelry you’re proudest of: I was extremely honored to have my Elisa Ilana Signature bracelet, chosen by the Hollywood Foreign Press for the Golden Globes, as the official bracelet for the nominees and presenters.

ELISA ILANA The Most Colorful Name In Jewelry Number of years in the biz: 17 Number of employees: 50 to 60 Number of locations: Two currently, adding our third in May 2014.

Do you manufacture in the USA? Yes Elevator pitch: “The most colorful name in jewelry.” Ilana jewelry is always on the cutting edge of new trends in the jewelry world. Whether it’s classic or sophisticated, on the cat walks of NYC or LA, Elisa Ilana Jewelry can outﬁt you for any event or occasion. Current product offerings: My designs, and the brands that I carry in my store, represent the innate beauty of the woman and the gemstones.

What jewelry are you best known for? We are most recognized because of our Web presence with the Pandora brand. Thanks to all of our wonderful new retail accounts, our ﬁrst year in the wholesale business as the Elisa Ilana brand, has been a fabulous experience! Describe your personal style: Trendsetting and fashion-forward, the word diva has been used a few times…sometimes I’m just a sweatshirt and jeans kind of girl. I love all fashion from vintage to couture.

Describe your inspiration for your jewelry: Architecture in a word, is my

Your best selling piece of jewelry:

If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing: A chef. I love

Elisa Ilana Mothers Bracelets. I’ve been lucky enough to watch my customers’ families evolve, their children are now having babies and starting bracelets of their own.

to cook, the Food Channel is my obsession. Family and pets: I am happily single again after 24 years of marriage. I have a 34-year-old son named Adam, also in the jewelry business, four parrots, a 16-year-old cat named Wicket, six siblings, and lots of extended family.

Best piece of advice you’ve ever received: My father taught me that if things seem jumbled and you are confused—hold tight, you are about to learn something new. This has helped me to stay grounded, especially in times when I’m feeling unsure of myself.

Jewelry you’re wearing right now:

How did you get started in the jewelry business? Quite by accident, I was a stockbroker until 1990—a right-brained person in a left-brained world. I needed something creative to help me learn how to breathe again. I remembered a strand of garnets my mom had been given from her grandmother’s wedding. I cut the necklace apart and designed four keepsake heirlooms for mom to give to her daughters. I started buying gemstones and designing jewelry, which I’d wear with my navy blue suit and pinpoint oxford uniform. I was selling the jewelry right off of my body! I was hooked immediately—I started a new chapter and new business.

passion…Intricate old-world styles, symbols, and textures. I work in all metals—gold, silver, and platinum, to see and feel the richness is exciting, around here we call it “lickable.”

Michelle Pﬁeffer

Custom double strand Mothers bracelet

Elisa Ilana two-inch-long 24k gold and black diamond earrings, two Vahan bracelets, my Pandora bracelet, and a Belle Brooke ring Five songs on your playlist: “Wearing the Inside Out,” and “The Division Bell,” by Pink Floyd; “Blow Me One Last Kiss,” by Pink; “Next to Me,” by Emeli Sande; “Besame Mucho,” by Andrea Bocelli Exercise regimen: Pilates three times a week, and as much golf as I can get into a week Guilty pleasure: Sea salt and caramel gelato (Häagan-Das) How do you unwind? A glass of wine and good conversation with friends Superstitious? Yes, I believe what goes around comes around. I’m trying to keep my karma in relatively good shape. What’s on your bucket list? I would love to dive the Great Barrier Reef.

Who would play you in your life story? Michelle Pﬁeffer (girl crush) Personal motto: Under promise and over deliver.

Biggest joy in your life: My son Adam S20 ◆ JCK DECEMBER 2013–JANUARY 2014 jckonline.com

WINE GLASSES: © MEDIA BAKERY; MICHELLE PFEIFFER: FRAZER HARRISON/GETTY IMAGES

WHO’S WHO: ELISA ILANA

Their family story begins with two young brothers who were apprentices to their father, master jeweler Elias Gabriel. Elias taught Jack and Dominick Gabriel the exacting art and science of combining precious metals and stones to make a creation greater than either element alone. Committed to their vision, they followed in their father’s footsteps and formed Gabriel & Co. in 1989. Today, they are proud to have earned the reputation as passionate, creative artistic designers who are dependable manufacturers. Gabriel & Co.’s extensive line of timeless pieces encompasses classic and fashion-forward designs, perfect for every unforgettable moment.

The Gabriel Family: L to R: Josline Raheb, Christine Gabriel, Dominick Gabriel, Sabiha Gabriel, Jack Gabriel, Berna Gabriel, and Jackline Muney

GABRIEL & CO. A Story of Passion, Family, Service, and Love Number of employees: 130 in our NYC

Your best selling piece of jewelry:

headquarters; 435 employees overseas.

14k white gold diamond stud earrings

Number of locations: Two—USA (NYC)

How did you get started in the jewelry business? Jack: Working for

and China with additional satellite offices in both India and Thailand. Elevator pitch: Gabriel & Co. designs for a lifetime. Whether celebrating milestone moments—a girl’s ﬁrst gift of jewelry, a young lady’s expression of independence and personal style, the love of a couple beginning a journey together, or an accomplished woman expressing her success, Gabriel & Co. creates and crafts the perfect piece of jewelry for the occasion.

Describe your personal style and inspiration: We are passionate artisans and are inspired by the art we see around us, throughout the history of mankind and that is prevalent today. We value beauty and each piece of jewelry is hand-crafted with care, delicate detail, unique design, and exquisite craftmanship. Current product offerings: We have over 8,000 pieces—about 4,000 in bridal and 4,000 in fashion.

If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing? Jack: Property developer Dominick: Business developer Favorite books: Jack: The Bible, I read it daily. Also enjoyed Straight From the Gut by Jack Welch; Dominick: Focus, The Future of Your Company Depends on It by Al Ries

our father was a real education for us, where we learned all facets of the jewelry industry. From that early education, we learned how to construct a piece to really make it pop and then identify what the consumer ultimately wants.

14k white gold diamond stud earrings MSRP: $1,690

How do both brothers work together so successfully? Jack: We are brothers. We complement each other—yin and yang. I am more operations-oriented and he’s more the creative and sales side. We take our work home, even into our leisure time. If we aren’t talking about business, then something is wrong. It’s truly 24/7. It is what it is and it’s how we live.

Best piece of advice you’ve ever received: Dominick: Our inspirational advice came from our father, who believed that your reputation precedes you and to always keep your integrity, even through tough times. Biggest joys in our lives: Our joy springs from living life true to our values and we are thankful for God’s blessings. Personal motto: Responding to the Present, Building for the Future®—are words we live by. We are always looking forward to building on our successes and valued relationships. We will always try to work hard to surpass even our own

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Tom Hanks

Russell Crowe

Envy bangle from the Boutique Silver collection, silver, pink rhodium, and white sapphires MSRP: $1,250

14k white gold Contemporary Halo engagement ring MSRP: $2,675

expectations and grow our family of satisﬁed retailers. Exercise regimen: Jack: Swimming and bicycling; Dominick: Walking Favorite pastimes: Jack: Listening to music and reading; Dominick: Family time Guilty pleasures: Jack: Sneak eating while barbecuing; Dominick: Cigars Preferred news source: Jack: The Wall Street Journal; Dominick: Fortune and Forbes Favorite movie: Jack: Forrest Gump; Dominick: Cinderella Man

Who would play you in your life story? Jack: Tom Hanks; Dominick: Russell Crowe What are you proudest of today? We are proud of our brand-new offices and showroom. We are looking forward to events throughout the year as well as our retailers spending time with us in New York City. What better way to show our retailers all of our latest collections than in the comfort of our new showroom home!

New York City headquarters

TOM HANKS: LESTER COHEN/GETTY IMAGES; RUSSELL CROWE: BRENDON THORNE/GETTY IMAGES

WHO’S WHO: GABRIEL & CO.

envy bangles

• Get to Know Us Program • Boutique Collections Merchandise Package w i t h E xc h a n g e P r i v i l e g e • I n - C a s e S e l l i n g S y s t e m • S a l e s Tr a i n i n g M a t e r i a l s • Gabriel & Co. Rewards Program • Custom Collateral & Promotion Materials • National Marketing • Dealer Locator G A B R I E L N Y. C O M

For David Goldstein, a self-described “diamond junkie”, it’s all about relationships—with his clients, his family (including two beloved German Shepherds), and especially with some of the world’s ﬁnest cut and color diamonds. In his teens, he sold Native American jewelry. Later, that passion reappeared. After graduating from the University of Arizona in 1980, he went to GIA. Upon graduation, he opened Goldstein Diamonds, which is in the same location 31 years later. Today, he says that early experience has allowed him to anticipate, understand, and fulﬁll his customers’ needs, thus building their relationships and their mutual businesses.

Over 4 cts. t.w. pear-shape fancy yellow diamond drop earrings

GOLDSTEIN DIAMONDS Number of years in the biz: 31 Number of employees: 11 Do you manufacture in the USA? U.S., Asia, and Latin America Elevator pitch: While we are known for our expertise in fancy-cut and fancy color diamonds, we are all about value and price. With our Guaranteed Trade Back Program, we help jewelers think outside the box. We make sure that they have the right inventory at the right price by helping them get rid of slow-moving diamonds and jewelry. I believe the brand is becoming the jeweler not the product so we try to support the jeweler so he can represent as his.

Where do you see your company in 10 years? In the next 10 years we will make a quantum leap in technology as my son, Chad, becomes an integral part of the business. Describe personal style: I guess I’m truly a chameleon. I’m passionate and always trying something new. And while

I take our business very seriously, I’m all about relationships and having fun doing business. As our company motto says, we’re “bringing the fun back to doing business.” Biggest joys in my life: The biggest joy in my life, by far, is my family. They are my compass and my solace. My wife, Lisa, and I are now empty-nesters, so my German Shepherds have become a great passion. I import highly trained protection Shepherds from Germany and train with them when I’m not on the golf course. Today we are six—my wife, two grown children, and two dogs. We operate as one. My family is my life. My inspiration: My inspiration comes from my children, Chad and Allison. Those names may be familiar to you, as we had created a successful company, Chad Allison, which we sold seven years ago. By selling Chad Allison, it allowed us to become more focused on what the jewelers needed most—value and guarantees. I understood that the retailer needed support now more than ever and changed our focus to buying second-hand merchandise and recycling, redesigning, and improving the look of the diamond or piece of jewelry.

The Spring ﬂower collection in 18k, containing all natural colored diamonds

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Best advice: Reach for the sky and settle for a star.

First job ever: I started making $1.32

One-of-a-kind black, yellow, and white diamond, and emerald serpant cuff, approx. 39 cts. t.w.

an hour doing carry out at a supermarket, when my father bought me two necklaces and $100 in supplies. At age 14, I was designing and selling Native American necklaces and jewelry. In high school, I opened a store to sell my jewelry. Those years taught me invaluable lessons that are my guide today. Superstitious? I’m very superstitious, so I always try to end a conversation with my customers and friends on a positive note. What are you watching on TV? I love reality TV and am completely enamored with how easy it is to be entertained. My motto: You have two choices in life— ﬁght or quit. I don’t know how to quit!

Bringing the fun back to doing business

8.83 ct. emerald-cut diamond, VS1-F GIA, platinum and diamond ring

Two-tone, 18k gold and diamond cuff. Five rows shown above features approximately 17 cts. t.w., also available in three rows.

CAT: GETTY IMAGES; TV: THINKSTOCK

WHO’S WHO: GOLDSTEIN DIAMONDS

IN 2014, VISIT US AT:

CENTURION, SMART SHOW CHICAGO, LUXURY/JCK LAS VEGAS MIAMI, CHICAGO, LOS ANGELES AND LAS VEGAS ANTIQUE SHOWS

The only thing harder to get rid of than a litter of kittens is the wrong inventory. There’s nothing worse than having a showcase full of diamonds and jewelry that just sit there. It doesn’t have to be that way. Our Guaranteed Trade Back Program makes sure you have the right inventory at the right price. If a diamond doesn’t sell, then trade it in for one that will. With memo always available, what could be easier?

" 5 9 % 2 3 3 % , , % 2 3 / & s $ I A M O N D S O F A L L S I Z E S s ! N T I Q U E A N D M O D E R N J E W E L R Y s 6 I N T A G E A N D M O D E R N W A T C H E S s % N T I R E E S T A T E S C o n fi d e n t i a l & I m m e d i a t e P a y m e n t

8 0 0 - 2 3 7- 0 3 6 4

GOLDSTEINDIAMONDS.COM

WHO’S WHO: JYE’S INTERNATIONAL

Designer/marketing director Jennifer Chang has come a long way from the 5th grade teaching assistant that began her career. After learning the pearl business from relatives some 30 years ago, she ventured out on her own and created a company producing classic yet fashionable jewelry aimed at today’s woman. Her appreciation for nature and delicate artwork is evident in the clean elegance of her diamond and gemstone designs. The business was also built by her determination. As she says, “I’m a Taurus; I never take no for an answer.”

Single piece of jewelry you’re proudest of: The Legend in Gold bangle

The Legend in Gold bangle in 18k yellow gold and diamonds, winner of the JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards, Best Bracelet Design category

JYE’S INTERNATIONAL INC.

natural scenery, ﬂowers, wood, art—open your eyes and you will see something nobody else does. You can even pick up a rock and like the way it looks, but submerge it into water and see something completely different.

college. However, that did not deter me; I did extremely well in school, and took up teaching assistant duties to make some extra money. I got a master’s in urban and regional planning, but could not get a green card or a job in my field. So I began helping out relatives in the pearl trade as a translator, developing regional accounts as their English-speaking liaison. I was there less than a year, but grew their sales tenfold. I made a lot of friends through the trade—jewelers who urged me to start my own business. I began as a wholesale broker for pearls, selling door-to-door in the Bay Area. With the help of my smart geologist husband, the business only grew. We started selling much finer pearls, and then eventually, designing jewelry. We saw a hole in the market of Hong Kong manufacturers coming to the United States so we filled it and found a diamond source that would supply the fine quality diamonds we needed.

Best piece of advice you’ve ever received: Aim high! If other people can do

Where do you see your company in 10 years? Pursuing ﬁne gems for the

it, why can’t I?

savvy luxury clientele and making the Jye Luxury Collection affordable by scaling down in size without compromising quality and workmanship.

Number of locations: Three: San Francisco, Hong Kong, and China

Do you manufacture in the USA? Yes! The design and production of our ﬁrst piece was done in the U.S. However, for us to be competitive in the market, the majority of the production is done overseas. Elevator pitch: We are the essence of timeless design. Current product offerings: 18k gold and platinum diamond jewelry, ﬁne gems with top-notch G color, and VS/VVS clarity premium-cut diamonds Describe your personal style: Classic, yet fashion-forward

Describe your inspiration for your jewelry: I love gathering ideas from

First job ever: Fifth grade teaching assistant

How did you get started in the jewelry business? It all started with my journey from Taiwan and being educated in the United States. Being born to a large, rather poor family, my father could not allocate the resources for me to attend

What jewelry are you best known for? The Susie collection, which features our shared-prong earrings with a special twist.

If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing? Designing

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clothing, or learning how to play the piano and violin. Family and pets: Married to my husband Charles, a geologist from Stanford University, who is an integral part of the business. We have four wonderful children that I’m proud of.

Jewelry you’re wearing right now: Three beautifully designed emerald, ruby, and sapphires rings that can be worn individually or together. 18k white gold with premium-cut round G/VS+ brilliants.

Shared-prong hoop earrings from the Susie collection come in 18k white gold with G/VS+ clarity, premium-cut round diamonds

Our signature pieces—a baguette-anddiamond Tipton ring and our shared-prong earrings. Five songs on your playlist: “Four Seasons,” by Vivaldi; “If,” by Bread; “Without You,” by Harry Nilsson; “Time to Say Goodbye,” by Andrea Bocelli; “Mariage D’Amour,” by Richard Claderman. How do you unwind? Listening to my favorite music, talking to my children, yoga, massages, playing badminton, and traveling. Superstitious: A ﬁrm believer in feng shui Preferred news source: NPR and CNN What are you watching on TV? I love The Mentalist! I also love the Discovery Channel. Favorite movie: Gone With the Wind Biggest joy in your life: Receiving a scholarship to the University of Iowa’s graduate program. I had only $2,000 in my pocket when I came to the United States— all the money I had saved after ﬁnishing college in Taiwan, where I attended classes at night and worked during the day.

Haute couture styles at affordable prices— what woman alive wouldn’t want that? That’s exactly what designer Orly Ovadia of Lauren G Adams says about the jewelry she creates. “Our designs are based on the idea that every woman deserves to feel beautiful, stylish, and powerful without breaking the bank,” she says. Orly’s early career was in fashion, but she was encouraged to design jewelry by her husband, Joseph. Her signature looks are colorful enamel designs of necklaces, earrings, bangles, and rings that reﬂect the current fashion themes and colors.

What jewelry are you best known for? My unique and colorful enamel pieces

Moon Dust collection bangle JCK 2012 Jewelers’ Choice Award Winner 1st place Best Bracelet Design Under $500

LAUREN G ADAMS More Than “Just a Jewelry Company” Good Karma collection

Number of years in the biz: 25 Number of employees you oversee: At our headquarters, we have 20 amazing employees that we consider family. Number of locations: 1 Do you manufacture in the USA? No Elevator pitch: We are more than just a jewelry company. Lauren G Adams is based on the idea that every woman deserves to feel beautiful, stylish, and powerful without breaking the bank. We design high-quality fashion jewelry that is inspired by haute couture.

my LGA luxury collection, and my Channel J12 watch.

Five items on your desk right now:

store in my hometown of Montreal.

Pictures of my kids, a Fiji water bottle, my iPhone, fashion magazines, and color swatches. Top songs on your playlist: “Haven’t Met You Yet,” by Michael Buble; “Walking on the Moon,” by The Police; “With or Without You,” by U2; “Break My Fall,” by Tiesto Favorite pastime: Shopping and spending time with my family. Biggest joy in your life: My family Guilty pleasure: Cookies! I am a cookie monster.

every chic retail location on the globe. Current product offerings: Along with our signature necklaces, earrings, bangles, and rings, we now offer custom showcases made to suit any location. Describe your personal style: Preppychic with an occasional edgy personal touch

How did you get started in the jewelry business? My husband was

First website you check every day (not your own!): I read one of my

in the jewelry business when we met. My love for jewelry only went as far as a few personal sketches at the time. My husband’s conﬁdence in me is what inspired me to start designing actual pieces.

Describe your inspiration for your jewelry: Most of my inspiration comes

If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing? I would

favorite fashion bloggers, Cupcakes and Cashmere. I also go on my brother’s website, where he posts pictures of his beautiful children. (They live in California.) How do you unwind? Go out on a date with my hubby. What’s on your bucket list? I would love to travel to Bora Bora and Hawaii. Book you’re reading: Stories I Only Tell My Friends: An Autobiography by: Rob Lowe Preferred news source: Fox and WWD

Where do you see your company in 10 years? I see my pieces being offered in

from my travels. I meet women from all over the world who inspire me to design versatile pieces that are long-lasting styles. Single piece you’re proudest of: My pieces are like my children; it is impossible to pick a favorite.

First piece you ever designed: Good Karma collection

Best piece of advice you’ve ever received: Be consistent. Worst piece of advice: People only want imitation designs.

First job ever: I worked at a clothing

18k gold plated enamel stack rings

work in the beauty industry.

Family and pets: My other half, Joseph, and my beautiful kids, Eric Adam, Lauren, and Gaby. We have two poodles and four Persian cats. I obviously have a hard time saying no to my kids.

Your best selling piece of jewelry:

Jewelry you’re wearing right now:

Our stackable rings

My ﬁfth anniversary wedding band, my 15th anniversary platinum emerald-cut eternity band, my pavé hoop earrings from

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What are you watching on TV? Revenge

Scarlett Johansson

Who would play you in your life story? Scarlett Johansson Favorite movie: Pretty Woman Personal motto: Be true to yourself

BISCUITS: LUIS SANTOS/FOTOLIA; SCARLETT JOHANSSON: WIREIMAGE/GETTY IMAGES

WHO’S WHO: LAUREN G ADAMS

WHO’S WHO: LE VIAN®

Le Vian’s historical journey in ﬁne jewelry reads like a romance novel: jewelers to Persian royalty, guardians of priceless jewels, and today, the red carpet ﬁne jewelry designer of choice for many of today’s hottest celebrities. Le Vian designs and manufactures an impressive spectrum of jewels, from stylish everyday looks to extraordinary one-of-a-kind masterpieces, including an award-winning $2 million evening shoe dripping with museum-quality tanzanite and diamonds. Le Vian has more than 1 million collectors around the world, who each choose Le Vian for its innovative designs and exotic gemstones and diamonds, including its exclusive natural color Chocolate Diamonds®. Eddie LeVian

LE VIAN

® The Historic Jeweler to Royalty Sweetens the Red Carpet and

Number of years in the biz: 35 Number of employees: 125 Number of locations: Over 3,500 points of sale throughout the U.S., Caribbean, Canada, U.K., Australia, and other countries

Do you manufacture in the USA? All of the design and inspiration, including our well-regarded trend forecasts, are done in the U.S. All innovation is from the U.S. Additionally, many of the center stones and some of the side stones are set in the US. Most of the couture is done in the U.S. While we do a lot in the U.S. and the trend is to do the work here, many laborintensive jobs can be done better in other countries. Elevator pitch: Wear nothing but Le Vian

Sets the Fine Jewelry Trends Describe your inspiration for your jewelry: Our family’s mission is to be the

Your best selling piece of jewelry: The Chocolate Diamonds® Hero Ring

Best piece of advice you’ve ever received: Work hard and be original. Worst piece of advice: Don’t trust

company that compels every household in America to own a Le Vian, the world’s most beautiful and desirable jewelry. We strive to create signed jewelry designs that will be treasured and loved, passed down from generation to generation, forever keeping the LeVian name alive in millions of families.

anyone, even your family.

First job ever: At the age of 13, I delivered medicine to the elderly in the winter. I traveled by foot within a two mile radius and was paid a quarter dollar per delivery. By 16, I was working at a hotel all summer. The boss told me he was going to teach me a lesson by not paying me.

First piece you ever designed: A sapphire ring with hidden settings

Single piece of jewelry you’re proudest of: The articulated ruby lobster limited edition pin with hundreds of moving parts.

The Hero ring featuring Chocolate Diamonds® with a sweet halo of Vanilla Diamonds®

Where do you see your company in 10 years? An international luxury brand Current product offerings: Diamonds, color gemstones, pearl jewelry, bridal sets, timepieces, proprietary cuts

What jewelry are you best known for? Chocolate Diamonds® lead the edible ﬂavors of Le Vian. Stay tuned for the magic we create with Vanilla Diamonds®.

Describe your personal style:

Chocolate Diamonds®, the starring gem in the Flavors of Le Vian®, is deliciously featured in this Ocean Wave™ Gladiator® design

Open, transparent, humble, passionate, driven, fair

The limited edition ruby lobster pin with hundreds of moving parts

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How did you get started in the jewelry business? I was fortunate to be born into a multigeneration family of jewelers. My father, Abdulrahim LeVian, brought me into the family business, where I dove into various facets of the business. He sent me out with the sales team. He had already encouraged my brother Larry to lead the sales team successfully in the ’70s where we imported and sold millions of carats of Persian turquoise. He taught me stone-cutting through my internship in his stone-cutting shop. He taught me the global jewelry industry by taking us around the world. My father encouraged my brother Moossa to go to Africa, where he established ties with the tanzanite mine and encouraged him to buy all of the best

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Exercise regimen: I run at least three times a week.

Favorite pastime: Community work Guilty pleasure: Travel First website you check every day (not your own!): News compilers How do you unwind? Spend time with family, work out, and do community work Superstitious? No What’s on your bucket list? 1,000 places to see Book you’re reading: Start-Up Nation by Dan Senor and Saul Singer Preferred news source: The New York Times

What advice would you offer someone who wants to break into the business? Work hard and

What are you watching on TV? Shark Tank

Favorite movie: Midnight in Paris Personal motto: Live life and make a

differentiate yourself.

If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing? Saving lives. Family and pets: I have a lovely wife,

WHO’S WHO: LE VIAN®

Le Vian expertly combined Strawberry Gold® and Vanilla Diamonds® for the 2014 Color Trend of the Year: Strawberry ‘N Vanilla™

What are you doing right? At Le Vian every design starts with a pencil and paper. We have built a culture of innovation. What needs improvement? We need to come home earlier at nights. What keeps you up at night? How to convince others in our industry that we are not competing against each other but should be working toward a shared goal. Together, through innovative concepts, the jewelry industry can be a competitive force in the luxury market, competing on the same scale as handbags, ﬂat screens, and other luxury products.

“Midnight in Paris”

Miranda, a hard-working son, Jon, and a driven daughter, Lexy.

difference

Biggest joy in your life: The unity of the LeVian family and the next generation coming into the business.

Jewelry you’re wearing right now: A simple comfortable wedding band made of 18k Strawberry Gold® to match my number one of nine limited edition Le Vian Complicato Skeleton timepiece with a skeletonized Valjoux 7750 Swiss movement and an exhibition back.

Five items on your desk right now: Eddie, Lawrence, and Moossa LeVian

A stunning watch for the timepiece collector: Limited Edition Complicato™ timepiece from Le Vian Time®, with a skeletonized Valjoux 7750 Swiss movement and exhibition back

Sketchpad, computer, phone, family pictures, contracts

available gems, importing half of the world’s only production for almost two decades. He also encouraged Moossa to set up cutting facilities for tanzanite so he could better understand the sourcing and cutting of gems. My father opened our eyes to the art of handmade jewelry making and cottage craftsmen that, to this day, do the work by hand, a dying art. He gave us the passion to save this dying art. We each learned the business from the ground up, with a global point of view of saving gems that are only found in one place in the world. That is what led us to focus on the natural fancy color brown diamonds from Australia at the turn of the century. This brought about the era of Chocolate Diamonds® and the differentiated collections that have redeﬁned entire categories of ﬁne jewelry.

Le Vian’s Cut of the Year, Cush’n Pillow™, is featured in this Blueberry Tanzanite™ design

Where do you see the jewelry industry 10 years from now? Branding is the key to the survival and success of the jewelry industry now and is essential for the future.

SKETCH BOOK: ISTOCK BY GETTY IMAGES; STRAWBERRIES & CHOCOLATE: ISTOCK BY GETTY IMAGES; MIDNIGHT IN PARIS POSTER: MOVIE POSTER DB.COM

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In 2009, Michelle Mentrop and Joery Tol, a hardworking couple with a love for Spain and a dream to build a leading international business, channeled both passions into the wildly successful Mi Moneda brand. “We had been traveling to Spain for over 20 years and appreciated the Spanish zest for living the good life,” says Mentrop. “Combined with our love for coins and jewelry design, it occurred to us to combine all these passions into an interchangeable jewelry concept.” Mentrop’s designs took the European market by storm, winning the hearts of consumers and celebrities alike. Rihanna, Halle Berry, and Kendall Jenner are just a few of the personalities spotted wearing the Mi Moneda brand.

Your best selling piece of jewelry: There are over 400 pieces in the total Mi Moneda jewelry collection. Our independent retail partners know that we have a core set of items that account for a signiﬁcant percentage of Mi Moneda sales. Our retail partners give us feedback that those VIP items are their “go-to” best sellers, which help to maximize store sales during peak selling periods.

MICHELLE MENTROP Number of years in the biz: 10 Number of locations: Mi Moneda is available for sale in leading independent retail stores in over 30 countries worldwide. Elevator pitch: Mi Moneda means “my coin” in Spanish. A timeless tradition is keeping coins and amulet jewelry close to our hearts with special, inspirational messages. Mi Moneda’s signature look involves symbols of love, hope, and strength—reﬂecting the conﬁdence, faith, and spirituality of those who wear it.

Current product offerings: Mi Moneda offers hand-crafted jewelry with symbols of love, hope, and strength. The designs are stylish, luxurious, glamorous—and always personal with a special meaning. The unique, proprietary pendant designs are worn on a necklace or bracelet. The coins (monedas) are available in many collections with inspirational and spiritual meanings, wearable on both sides. Most of the line is priced below $200—affordability is an important characteristic of the brand.

What jewelry are you best known for? Mi Moneda has a distinctive

Describe your inspiration for your jewelry: I love to design for the conﬁdent

styling which is chic, luxurious, and glamorous. Handmade jewelry with a bold look in .925 sterling silver, 18k gold vermeil, and a dazzling array of materials and designs. The collection offers the versatility of personalized fashion and interchangeability.

individual who seeks to create their own look with our highly personalized jewelry. Mi Moneda is for all ages who appreciate hand-crafted quality, chic European design and an affordable price.

Where do you see your brand in 10 years? We have a valuable network of trusting relationships with our independent retailer and distribution partners. Going forward, we hope to add more regional partnerships to the Mi Moneda brand. Recently, we launched Mi Moneda in the USA via an excellent distribution partnership with Premier Fashion Brands. It is a special achievement to bring Mi Moneda to America and critically important for our company.

How do you bring innovation to your designs? Mi Moneda is distinctly

Turning Love and Dreams Into a Global Brand

“I was honored to create a special design for Rihanna that she cherished wearing on tour.”

Michelle’s ﬁrst design

European, but embraced by all cultures. We seek to always push the boundaries of fashion jewelry materials and design. Natural mosaic shells, Italian leather, ﬁne crystals, genuine quartz, semi-precious gemstones, and Swarovski elements all come together in our world view of design.

“I am living my dream every day,” says Mentrop, “together with my life partner, Joery, and our international distribution and retail partners, we are building the Mi Moneda brand as a spiritual, fashionable, stylish jewelry line that enriches lives worldwide.” Jewelry you’re wearing right now: My favorite rose gold Mi Moneda pendant with a lovely Swarovski ﬁne crystal moneda Favorite pastime: Traveling with my family to inspirational places all over the world. Guilty pleasure: Buying new shoes and Iberico Jamon Bellota at the San Miguel Market in Madrid. Personal motto: Aim high. Think big. Shoot for the moon—even if you miss you’ll land among the stars.

Best piece of advice you’ve ever received: To believe in your product, work hard, set your goals, and stick to your plan. I try to follow that path every day. Together with building valuable partnerships this advice has been spot on.

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New 2014 spring collection

San Miguel Market in Madrid

RIHANNA: JASON LAVERIS/GETTY IMAGES

WHO’S WHO: MI MONEDA

WHO’S WHO: RAHAMINOV DIAMONDS

Respected diamond dealer and luxury jewelry aficionado Amir Goldfiner leads the exciting growth of Rahaminov Diamonds. If Amir is the heart of the company, then his wonderfully talented wife, Tamara Rahaminov Goldfiner, is truly its soul. Tamara’s jewelry designs have transformed Rahaminov Diamonds from loose diamond dealers of 25 years ago to the award-winning jewelry design house it is today. An original, creative, and influential designing power in the jewelry industry, this dynamic couple also loves spending time with their children, paddle boarding in Malibu, and going to yoga retreats.

RAHAMINOV DIAMONDS Number of years in the biz: 25 Number of employees you oversee: 12 Number of locations: 1 Do you manufacture in the USA? Yes Elevator pitch: Rahaminov Diamonds

Your best selling line of jewelry:

designs and manufactures some of the world’s ﬁnest luxury diamond jewelry. We are known worldwide for our large, rare, and important diamonds.

corners.

Where do you see your company in 10 years? Expanding the company with our children and wonderful staff. Current product offerings: An array of magniﬁcent diamond jewelry and a vast selection of rare loose diamonds

Best piece of advice you’ve ever received: Do it once and do it right. Worst piece of advice: Try to cut

How did you get started in the jewelry business? I grew up surrounded by jewelry and diamonds because my family was in the business.

If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing? I would love to own a yoga studio.

designs

A gorgeous spinel ring given to me for my birthday by my husband; a pearl pendant necklace from my father; Amir’s diamond band, 10 yellow gold and diamond bangles, my anniversary Patek Philippe watch from my husband, and oops, where are my earrings?

elegance

diamonds. Every diamond is unique and has its own beauty. First piece you ever designed: I designed a beautiful ring for my mother while I was studying at GIA.

Single piece of jewelry you’re proudest of: My ﬂower rings, because I was able to translate them into different variations and adapt them into most of my collections.

How do you unwind? Yoga, a tequila shot, a nice massage. Superstitious? Totally. I have my angel in my purse and my hamsa is always nearby. What’s on your bucket list? Going to India and living in an ashram. Book you’re reading: The Night Circus by Erin Morgenstern Preferred news source: Internet What are you watching on TV? I don’t watch too much television. Who has the time? Favorite movie: When Harry Met Sally

First job ever: Waitress while serving in

Family: Two daughters and a son Jewelry you’re wearing right now:

Describe your inspiration for your jewelry: I’m inspired by beautiful

favorite websites.

the Israeli army

What jewelry are you best known for? Unique diamond ﬂower jewelry Describe your personal style: Casual

Guilty pleasure: Pasta. I’m Italian! First website you check every day (not your own!): It depends. I have many

Our O collection

The award winning O collection ring

and husband. Exquisite oval diamond ring surrounded by natural pink diamonds

Five items on your desk right now: Loupe, tweezers, picture of my kids, cellphone, and lots of diamonds. Artists on your playlist: “XX”, Flume, Alt J, Forence and the Machines, Michael Buble Exercise regimen: Yoga anytime, anywhere. Favorite pastime: Yoga with my daughters and, actually, my husband too, as of recently.

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Who would play you in your life story? Meg Ryan. We have the same hair. Personal motto: Life is short. Enjoy it. Biggest joy in your life: My children

Our gorgeous fancy yellow diamond ﬂower ring

PORTRAIT: KARLCLINGERPHOTOGRAPHY.COM; TEQUILA SHOT: ISTOCK BY GETTY IMAGES

WHO’S WHO: RAHAMINOV DIAMONDS

WHO’S WHO: ROYAL CHAIN GROUP

As solidly linked as the name implies, Royal Chain is a third-generation, family-based manufacturing company that specializes in classic as well as high-fashion jewelry in gold and silver. Phillip Gabriel Maroof, executive vicepresident and designer, says the Phillip Gavriel brand is rapidly gaining a fashion audience; its Dragonﬂy bangle recently won a prize in JCK’s Jewelers’ Choice Awards. A dynamic, value driven and customer-focused company, Royal Chain embraces the future with new opportunities in technology, materials, and designs.

The Dragonﬂy bracelet. A JCK Jewelers’ Choice Award Winner in 2012

Your best selling piece of jewelry: The Dragonﬂy bangle from the Phillip Gavriel Collection. It won the JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards contest and still gets a lot of interest from people. Regarding Royal Chain, as you can imagine our chains are still the best sellers.

ROYAL CHAIN GROUP From Basics to Brands Number of years in the biz: 36 Number of employees you oversee: 50 Number of locations: 1 Do you manufacture in the USA? Yes Elevator pitch: Royal Chain is a third generation manufacturer and distributor of precious and alternative metal jewelry. What started as a basic chain company with humble beginnings in the 1970s has grown to become one with an in-depth selection of gold and sterling silver, a diverse offering of basic and fashion jewelry, and some of the strongest, coordinated branded jewelry programs in the industry.

Where do you see your company in 10 years? The Royal Chain of the

Bronze jewelry

How did you get started in the jewelry business? The people working close to my father, the president of the company, recognized my creative and managerial abilities at an early age and that was it.

The Fleur-de-lis. My ﬁrst design inspired by Florence

Describe your personal style: Over the years my style has evolved, I love the sophistication of Italian fashion and the casual and comfortable nature of American sportswear. I dress up on days where many people dress down and vice versa.

future will build upon the strengths we have today, being dynamic, value driven, customer focused, and family owned and operated. Current product offerings: Gold and silver chain and fashion jewelry, Personality Beads, Karisma, stainless steel and bronze jewelry, and Phillip Gavriel.

Describe your inspiration for your jewelry: Because we carry so many

What jewelry are you best known for? As you can probably infer from the

First piece you ever designed:

name, we have always been known for our chains. Gold and precious metal jewelry has always been our strength, but in the last decade we have also become well known for our brands and other collections such as Phillip Gavriel.

First job ever: I always worked at Royal Chain over the years growing up, but my ﬁrst real job was at Chase where I realized there was no way I could work in the world of ﬁnance. I would fall asleep at lunch, it was so boring!

If you weren’t designing jewelry, what would you be doing: Operating a restaurant or café in the East Village. Stardust silver

A Phillip Gavriel sterling silver and blue sapphire woven bracelet and a Rolex Daytona which was a gift from my dad when I graduated. Exercise regimen: Running, spinning, kickboxing. And when I can’t do any of these just walking all over New York City. Guilty pleasure: Cooking French desserts

different products and brands, inspiration comes from different places. If we are talking about Phillip Gavriel, travelling always inspires me, but the various aesthetics that history has left us with [inspires me] as well. Everything was born from the Fleur-de-lis that captured my attention when I was studying in Florence. The spirit of the Renaissance always remained close to my heart inspiring the launch of the Fleur-delis bracelet for my ﬁrst collection.

First website you check every day (not your own!): Kayak.com because I Personality jewelry

Best piece of advice you’ve ever received: Always follow your ﬁrst instinct Silver jewelry

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Jewelry you’re wearing right now:

want to imagine where I can travel next. What’s on your bucket list? To dive in the Great Barrier Reef Book you’re reading: Paris, I Love You But You are Bringing Me Down by Rosecrans Baldwin Favorite movie: Old italian cinema such as Swept Away and new classics like American Beauty.

WHO’S WHO: SHREE RAMKRISHNA EXPORTS STIL NOVO

STARDUST

ROYAL CHAIN GOLD

www . royalchain . com 212 . 382ƫċ 3344

Humble, yet highly motivated, Govind L. Dholakia is the founder and chairman of a diamond-fueled empire with more than 5,000 employees that produces a voluminous output of loose diamonds of all sizes and qualities as well as ﬁnished jewelry. Based in Mumbai, SRK is at the pinnacle of modern manufacturing and distribution, using state-of-the-art technology in the factory as well as selling diamonds online through its portal SRKexport.com. The company mantra comes from the words of Bhagavad Gita in the Hindu Holy Book: “I am nothing, but I can do anything.”

SRK’s best selling piece of jewelry. The ring is part of the Astoria collection and features 2.0 cts. t.w.

SHREE RAMKRISHNA EXPORTS PVT. LTD. Number of years in the biz: 50 Celebrating our golden anniversary this year. Current product offerings: Loose diamonds, rings, pendants, earrings, bracelets, sets. Diamonds in sizes 0.30 to 5.0+ cts., D–Z color, and in almost all clarities and shapes. Forty percent of our diamond sales are done on our online portal, SRKexport.com.

Favorite pastime: Listening to music and writing.

How do you unwind? Writing. What’s on your bucket list? Life has

SRK Empire – SRK Headquarters, Surat

What jewelry are you best known for? Bridal and fashion diamond jewelry Describe your personal style: I believe

Worst piece of advice: None, by God’s grace.

First job ever: Diamond-cutter and

in simplicity.

polisher

Describe your inspiration for your jewelry: We produce diamonds and

How did you get started in the jewelry business? As part of a forward

jewelry based on the input and demand from our customers. First piece you ever designed: Rings have always been our core strength; the ﬁrst creation was a three-stone ring resembling a cluster of ﬂowers.

integration. Understanding the global demand and opportunity, and based on our expertise in diamond manufacturing, we were inspired to expand our business into ﬁnished jewelry manufacturing. Family and pets: My family is my biggest asset, and if I earn anything important in life, it is the trust of my family. Jewelry you’re wearing right now: A diamond pendant and diamond ring Items on your desk right now: My Mac; diary; company mantra; – “I am nothing, but I can do anything;” Bhagavad Gita—Hindu Holy book; and Million Dollar book. Songs on your playlist: Religious and Gujarati songs Exercise regimen: Yoga every day from 7–9 a.m. I also enjoy swimming and walking.

Single piece of jewelry you’re proudest of: I can’t name a single design; our company has produced many rings in a wide range of designs.

Your best selling piece of jewelry: Bridal and fashion rings that reﬂect the imagination and passion of our craftsmen.

Best piece of advice you’ve ever received: I have received many pieces of advice, but very few have inﬂuenced my life and career. However, the saying “See God in your brother” has taught me to make my relationships a bond forever.

given me more than I need and for that I am grateful. Book you’re reading: Wings on Fire, Gujarati edition Preferred news source: Newspapers and television What are you watching on TV? Comedy. Favorite movie: Hindi movies—Sholay

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SRK artisans are at the forefront of technology and innovation

The three-stone diamond ﬂower ring featuring .50 cts. is our ﬁrst piece of jewelry we designed SRK’s state-of-the-art facility in the heart of Diamond City, Surat.

NOTEBOOK & PEN: DREAMSTIME; NEWSPAPER: ISTOCK BY GETTY IMAGES

WHO’S WHO: SHREE RAMKRISHNA EXPORTS

Julian Rotstein had an ambitious goal 10 years ago when he developed the transformational idea for a new silver fashion jewelry brand. Rotstein states he “wanted to combine ﬁne jewelry craftsmanship (such as hand-set stones and intricate ring galleries) with a more affordable price level. The original idea for Ti Sento Milano was to bring beautiful, high-quality, European-inspired ﬁne jewelry design at an accessible price.” Over time, the brand has won the hearts of consumers and retailers alike, collecting accolades and awards along the way. Ti Sento Milano is the only brand to have won the prestigious Jewellery Magazine U.K. Brand of the Year in back-to-back years (2010 and 2011).

JULIAN ROTSTEIN Number of years in the biz: 35 Number of locations: Ti Sento Milano is available for sale in 3,000+ leading independent retail stores in over 50 countries worldwide. Elevator pitch: Ti Sento means “I feel you” in Italian. It is our passion to create jewelry that makes women look and feel beautiful, desirable, and special. We are very proud that Ti Sento Milano is celebrating its 10-year anniversary; the brand has delighted self-purchasing women “fashionistas” all over the world. Always on trend with European jewelry fashion, Ti Sento Milano is the next level of versatile mix-and-match fashion jewelry.

What jewelry are you best known for? Ti Sento Milano has a distinctive, signature look. Italian fashion design resonates throughout the collection. Handcrafted quality and fashion forward designs in .925 sterling silver and 18k gold vermeil with pearl, Italian leather, and CZ in a dazzling array of colors.

Where do you see your brand in 10 years? We owe our success to enduring, trusting relationships with our independent retailer and distribution partners. During the next 10 years we plan to add more of these successful regional partnerships to the Ti Sento Milano brand. Recently, we launched Ti Sento Milano in North America via an excellent distribution partnership with Premier Fashion Brands.

Our new Americas business is a critically important priority for our company. Current product offerings: Ti Sento Milano is a full range fashion jewelry line of rings, bracelets, necklaces, and earrings. We design Ti Sento Milano with an eye to sophistication, elegance, and a touch of glamour. However, most of the line is priced below $200 retail, which makes it more accessible. So “affordable luxury” is a vital part of the brand’s essence.

First piece you ever designed: One of my earliest pieces was a cocktail ring with several rows of multicolored cubic zirconia. Like many Ti Sento Milano designs, for me this piece reﬂected a combination of femininity, elegance, and bold conﬁdence.

Julian’s ﬁrst design

Building Ti Sento Milano Into a Global Brand

New spring 2014 collection

Describe your inspiration for your jewelry: We design for the bold, conﬁdent

Your best selling piece of jewelry:

woman who wants to create her own look with our mix-and-match jewelry. Ti Sento Milano is designed for the fashionista of all ages who sets the trends for her friends. She is demanding…she wants hand-crafted quality, bold European design, and an affordable price.

How do you bring innovation to your designs? Ti Sento Milano is inﬂuenced by architecture, new materials, vintage fashion, and so much more. Recently, we were inspired by the resurgent popularity of denim fashion. This fashion trend was translated into our new Spring 2014 collection, featuring our new Denim Jewelry, which utilizes actual denim fabric into our hand-set Ti Sento Milano fashion jewelry. To our knowledge this is the ﬁrst time denim fabric has ever been incorporated into a silver fashion jewelry line in this manner.

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“I am unbelievably blessed,” says Rotstein. “I get to work with a brilliantly talented team of jewelry designers at IBB Amsterdam, who create dazzling new Ti Sento Milano collections twice per year. It is their talent and passion for the brand to which we owe our product design success.”

Milano, Italy

2014 Denim collection

There are over 500 pieces in the total Ti Sento Milano jewelry collection. All of our independent retail partners know that we have a core set of Top 60 pieces that account for a signiﬁcant percentage of Ti Sento Milano sales. Our retail partners depend on those best sellers to maximize their sales during the peak holiday seasons.

Best piece of advice you’ve ever received: Focus our business on the independent jewelry channel. Experience has taught us those independent retailers understand the mutual beneﬁts of trusting, long-term business relationships. Favorite pastime: Ski holiday in the Austrian Alps with my family! Guilty pleasure: Cuban food at Miami’s Little Havana, Calle Ocho. Personal motto: Your word and your reputation are your most important assets— maintain the highest integrity for both.

MILANO, ITALY: GETTY IMAGES

WHO’S WHO: TI SENTO MILANO

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