Tracking: Making Waves

Jamika Wilson on Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom

Making WAVES

Black Makeup and Hair Designers have been making waves in the film and television industry for years – as recognised by this year’s awards season. While Mia Neal and Jamika Wilson won an Oscar for their work on Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom (2020), the British Independent Film Awards saw Nora Robertson receiving a nomination for her work on Rocks (2019) and Sharon Martin receiving a nomination for her work on His House (2020) – alongside getting nominations from the Hollywood Makeup Artist and Hair Stylist Guild, and being shortlisted for an Oscar, for her work on Jingle Jangle (2020). But, with high profile actors like Viola Davis and Lamorne Morris making headlines this year for the hair discrimination they faced on Hollywood sets, how much change still needs to be demanded from film and television hair and make-up departments?

Nora, what was it like designing hair and make-up for Rocks?

Nora: Rocks was unique in that all the actors were street-cast. I wanted to make them feel comfortable and not too heavily made up. The brief was to be realistic and natural, so it was a collaboration with the cast and director. They loved having their edges laid, and with beautiful skin, it is a joy to see their characters come to life.

Sharon, what was it like designing hair and make-up for His House and Jingle Jangle?

Sharon: His House was a great opportunity to collaborate and bring my creativity to the project, researching the various tribal scarification and being a part of creating the monster and other ghostly looks. Jingle Jangle was a gift. My key thing was that the hair of this Black cast should be showcased in all its textures – no straightening, relaxing or conks. I’m very focused when it comes to work, but I kept getting emotional working on Jingle Jangle, and I realised the images being created were deep and personal to me. The reception that the film has had so far has confirmed that. Representation on screen is very important. >>

Nora Robertson

Is the industry becoming more welcoming to representing natural hair on screen?

Sharon: Definitely. The natural hair movement has been a large part of that. We have more Black cast turning up with natural textured hair, and they have a voice and are being heard. Nora: Yes, it is. The diversity on screen requires it, therefore the education for working with it is needed.

Do you think it’s becoming expected that all hair and make-up artists should be able to cater for Black talent?

Sharon: It has become quite a big thing at the moment. Our Black on-screen talent are rightly demanding to be treated equally. This is the backlash off #OscarsSoWhite and #BaftasSoWhite. The industry now has to work backwards to service the onscreen talent.

Sharon Martin

Nora: There is a lot more diverse talent on the screen and these young actors are very vocal – they know that they have the power to make their own programmes and say who gets hired to cater for their needs.

What does Mia Neal and Jamika Wilson’s Oscar win mean to you?

Sharon: We celebrate them. In 2021, the headline was sadly not focused on the beautiful work created by the artist, but the fact that it’s the first time a Black artist is winning the award. It’s great to have made a start. What we want is a level playing field, so Black makeup and hair artists are not a novelty. We have work to do.

Nora: I hope that in years to come headlines will recognise fantastic makeup designers for their craft, not primarily highlighting their race. Hannah Shury-Smith n