To'ak Comprehensive Chocolate Tasting Guide by To'ak Chocolate

Comprehensive Guide

H O W TO TASTE DAR K C H OCOL ATE LIKE A CONNOISSEUR by To’ak

Wine tasting and dark chocolate tasting adhere to the same general principles and even follow a similar procedure. In both cases, we use our sensory awareness to deepen an experience. We can all agree that there is certainly no shortage of shallow experiences in life. With dark chocolate, as with wine, we have the opportunity to transform an activity that could be mundane (i.e., the act of consumption) into something sublime. This is what it means to live richly. © by To’ak Ecuador Cía. Ltda.

In the art of dark chocolate tasting, there is also an element of story-telling involved. Every single bar of dark chocolate has its own narrative, which in some cases can be traced back thousands of years, over the entire course of the genetic evolution of the variety of cacao that was used to produce the chocolate. From there, the story moves to the land on which the cacao trees were grown and the unique weather that shaped that particular harvest. And then, of course, there is the story of the people who cultivated the cacao trees, harvested its fruit, fermented and dried the seeds, and crafted the chocolate. Even the journey a bar of chocolate has taken to arrive into your possession, and the conditions in which it was stored prior to tasting, express itself through your sensory impressions. Every single element of this entire story is narrated by what you see, hear, touch, smell, and taste in any given bar of dark chocolate. To properly taste dark chocolate is to explore this entire narrative, using both your body and your mind. Alright… now that we’ve set the tone, let’s get started.

STORAGE Chapter 1

First and foremost, try to avoid storing dark chocolate in a freezer or even in a refrigerator. Chocolate should be stored at room temperature, protected from direct sunlight, and away from other strong odors. The natural fat content in cacao is like a sponge for other odors, so storing your chocolate next to a sliced onion would be problematic.

PREPARATION Chapter 2

Prepare your palate in advance. Refrain from eating garlic or other heavily-spiced foods prior to tasting chocolate. Be forewarned that if you eat a garlic-heavy meal earlier in the day, you will probably not be able to discern the finer nuances of dark chocolate for the © by To’ak Ecuador Cía. Ltda.

entire rest of the day. In that case, you’re better off saving the chocolate for tomorrow. Generally speaking, coffee is another thing to avoid before tasting chocolate—bitter plus bitter often equals bitter. However, it is possible (and oftentimes delightful) to do a chocolate tasting after dinner. Just try to stay away from garlic, and once the meal is finished, cleanse the palate with bread, sorbet, or a nice glass of whisky or cognac. But hold off on the red wine for at least 15 minutes before tasting dark chocolate—the tannins in the red wine will interfere with the tannins in the dark chocolate. Remember that most experiences are more meaningful in the company of others, and this same principle applies to dark chocolate tasting. Before opening a bar of chocolate, bring some people together and gather around a table. Chocolate tasting is at its best when it’s the focal point of a special occasion. If you enjoy wine and spirits, put a few bottles onto the table as well. Pairing dark chocolate with wine and spirits adds another dimension of enjoyment into the equation.

For more information on this subject, see the following guide on our website: How to Pair Chocolate with Wine & Spirits If you’re tasting multiple different bars of dark chocolate, you’ll probably want something to cleanse your palate in between bars. At the very least, you’ll want to serve a glass of water for each person at the tasting. Additionally, you could also serve bread or salted crackers. f you want to get really fancy, the most effective palate cleanser is lime sorbet, although that’s not necessary.

SETTING Chapter 3

The setting is important. You’ll want to choose a room that is relatively free from other strong odors. Otherwise, the odors in the room will overpower the subtle aromas of the chocolate, both on the nose and on the palate. Interesting fact: wearing perfume or cologne is forbidden during professional chocolate tasting events. The temperature is also important. Both the chocolate and the room should be at room temperature, which is about 21 °C (70 °F), give or take a few degrees. Remember that dark chocolate melts at about 30 °C (86 °F), and the temperature of the human body (namely, inside your mouth) is about 37 °C (98.6 °F). When the temperature of chocolate is lower than room temperature, the flavor nuances are muted—especially on the nose, but also on the palate. So you want to start the tasting when the chocolate is at room temperature. Then, once it starts to melt inside your mouth, the temperature © by To’ak Ecuador Cía. Ltda.

of the chocolate slowly climbs from room temperature toward your body temperature, surpassing the melting point along the way. Meanwhile, different aromas are released into your retronasal passages during each degree rise of temperature, such that the entire journey (from room temperature to body temperature) is akin to a ride of different flavors. But we’re getting a bit ahead of ourselves—we still have a long way to go before putting the chocolate into our mouths. If, for whatever reason, the dark chocolate you are tasting has been chilled, let it sit at room temperature for a while before tasting. It’s nice to socialize before and after the tasting, but when it comes time to actually begin the tasting, bring your attention to the chocolate and to your own sensory awareness. All five senses will be called into action, in this order: sight, sound, smell, touch, taste. Some very special dark chocolates may even call into action the sixth sense, but we shall leave that part up to you.

VISUAL Chapter 4

WHAT TO LOOK FOR Start with your eyes. Visually inspect the color and sheen of the chocolate, similar to the way in which you would observe the color and legs of a glass of wine. The most obvious thing to look for are white splotches (called bloom) on the surface of the chocolate. If bloom is present, the chocolate has suffered some temperature damage. Don’t worry, this doesn’t mean the chocolate is rancid. It just means that the cacao fat has separated from the cacao solids, and this will adversely affect the flavor and texture of the chocolate. Chocolate that has suffered bloom is still edible, but its nuances and complexity will be perverted. In terms of color, all dark chocolate is some shade of brown, but there is considerable variation in terms of intensity (dark brown vs light brown) and hue (pure brown, reddish brown, purplish-brown, etc). Possible reasons for darker shades of brown include: higher cacao percentage in the recipe; heavier roast © by To’ak Ecuador Cía. Ltda.

of the beans; the chocolate was processed with alkali (known as dutching); or due to the specific variety and origin of the cacao. In the grand scheme of things, the color of a chocolate bar is not especially indicative of its flavor or quality, so long as the bar is free of bloom. More than anything, visual cues are best used to assess how a given bar of chocolate has been handled during transport and storage. Scuff marks and scratches on the surface of a chocolate bar may render it less aesthetically appealing, however this will not affect its aroma, texture, flavor, or finish.

EXAMPLES Color differences as a function of variety and origin of cacao are interesting to explore but difficult to predict. Dark chocolate made from Nacional cacao from Ecuador is often relatively dark, sometimes with a purplish hue. Criollo chocolate, for example from Venezuela, is often on the pale side of brown, perhaps with a reddish touch. Amelonado chocolate, for example from West Africa, is usually neutral brown. However, these are broad generalities and many exceptions can be found.

AUDITORY Chapter 5

WHAT TO LOOK FOR Now it’s time to bring your ears into the process. When you break a piece off of the bar, listen to the sound it makes. If it breaks with a reasonably loud “snap,” this is a good sign that the chocolate was properly tempered. It also means that the chocolate is probably at the right temperature for tasting. Observing the “snap” of a chocolate bar is somewhat akin to observing the moisture on the tip of a wine cork after a bottle has just been opened. If the cork is moist, this can be taken as indicator that the bottle was properly stored on its side. If the chocolate bar breaks with a loud snap, it was probably well-tempered, stored properly, and ready for tasting.

EXAMPLES If the chocolate is too warm, the chocolate won’t make much of a sound when you break a piece off, and you’ll miss out on the first half of the flavor ride from room temperature to body temperature (as discussed above).

AROMA Chapter 6

Resist the temptation to put the chocolate in your mouth. Just as you would with a glass of wine, bring the chocolate near to your nose and explore the aroma. This is where the sensory experience becomes more challenging and rewarding. In the world of dark chocolate tasting, skipping the aroma step is considered an unfortunate error. In the realm of Ecuadorian dark chocolate, this error is particularly inadvisable, because Ecuadorian cacao (namely, the Nacional variety) is famous for its uniquely fragrant aroma. At To’ak, this is arguably our favorite step of the entire experience. However, it must also be acknowledged that perceiving the aromatic nuances of dark chocolate is not an easy task—hence, the importance of protecting dark chocolate from other aromas during storage, and the importance of tasting dark chocolate in a room that is free of other aromas. Even if these preliminary steps are taken, the task can still © by To’ak Ecuador Cía. Ltda.

seem difficult at times. The key is to not worry about it—simply dive in with your nose and enjoy the adventure.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR With aroma, the first thing to assess is its intensity. Then from there, look for primary characteristics such as fruity, floral, nutty, earthy, spicy, or just plain “chocolatey” aromas. If you already have a well-trained nose, you may also perceive secondary characteristics (e.g., cherry, jasmine, fresh grass, butterscotch, smoke, cloves, malt…the list goes on). Be forewarned that some dark chocolate recipes include vanilla, which alters the aroma of the cacao. Alternative sweeteners such as coconut sugar or maple syrup also tend to bring their own distinctive aromas into the equation, thus muddling the aroma of cacao. If you’re interested in exploring the aromatic nuances of cacao, try to find dark chocolate bars that don’t use vanilla or any other additive other than cacao and cane sugar. From a chocolate tasting perspective, the beauty of cane sugar is its relative neutrality, which allows the cacao to take the front seat in terms of aroma and flavor expression. © by To’ak Ecuador Cía. Ltda.

EXAMPLES Ecuadorian dark chocolate made from Nacional cacao is known for its floral aroma—almost like a faint perfume—often in combination with earthy and fruity notes. Dark chocolate from Bali and other parts of Indonesia has a reputation for smokey and tobacco aromas, which is attributed both to terroir and to post-harvest methods in that part of the world. Dark chocolate produced from Criollo and Amelonado cacao is known for its pure chocolatey/cocoa notes, perhaps with a nutty undertone. However, these are generalities and many exceptions can be found.

TEXTURE Chapter 7

Now it’s time to move the chocolate into your mouth. But don’t chew! Rather, use your teeth to break the piece of chocolate into a few smaller pieces, and then let it melt. As it melts, move it around in your mouth (as you would with a mouthful of wine), to maximize exposure to your taste buds.

coconut sugar or maple syrup also tend to bring their own distinctive aromas into the equation, thus muddling the aroma of cacao. If you’re interested in exploring the aromatic nuances of cacao, try to find dark chocolate bars that don’t use vanilla or any other additive other than cacao and cane sugar. From a chocolate tasting perspective, the beauty of cane sugar is its relative neutrality, which allows the cacao to take the front seat in terms of aroma and flavor expression.

ON THE PALATE Chapter 8

WHAT TO LOOK FOR The first thing you’ll notice is the relative level of bitterness, acidity, astringency, or sweetness. Next, try to identify the primary flavor characteristics (fruity, floral, vegetal nutty, spicy, chocolatey). From there, you can also try picking out more specific notes, such as raisin, fig, orange blossom, hazelnut, forest floor, honey, anise, tobacco, caramel… © by To’ak Ecuador Cía. Ltda.

the list is nearly endless. This is also the element of chocolate tasting that is most interesting to analyze.

EXAMPLES The flavor and aroma profile of a given dark chocolate is influenced by the variety of the cacao, the soil and climate conditions in which it was grown (i.e., terroir), and the production methods used to convert it into chocolate. Here are but a few examples of how these elements shape what you experience inside your mouth. • Dark chocolate from Ghana, which is primarily produced from the Amelonado variety, is kind of like the Merlot of the dark chocolate world. It often has a mild tannic structure, which makes it very approachable, particularly to people who are new to dark chocolate and haven’t yet developed an appreciation for its inherent bitterness. It’s flavor profile is usually dominated by classic “chocolatey” notes, occasionally with a trace of red fruits.

• Criollo dark chocolate from Venezuela is also known for its relatively mild tannic structure, but offers an additional layer of complexity overlaid onto a pleasing, nutty base. • Criollo dark chocolate from Madagascar, on the other hand, is known for a rather lively citric acidity—akin to a fruit-forward New World wine. If you’re organizing a tasting of dark chocolate from various different growing regions throughout the world, Madagascar chocolate is a good one to include, simply because it’s acidic fruit-forward profile is so distinctive. For this same reason, however, it also has a reputation for one-dimensionality. © by To’ak Ecuador Cía. Ltda.

• Dark chocolate from Bali is another distinctive origin to include in a comparative tasting, for its smokey/tobacco characteristics. • Dark chocolate from Nicaragua can often be distinguished by its prominent earthy notes. However, an “earthy” chocolate that veers toward the “dirt” end of the spectrum is most likely due to moldy cacao beans rather than variety and terroir. Cacao that is harvested and fermented in especially wet and humid climates, such as the Amazon, is more prone to producing undesirable “dirt” notes. On the other hand, grassy/vegetal notes, which is a product of both terroir and production methods, often lend a fascinating freshness to the palate.

• Although the writers of this guide are admittedly biased, it is fair to say that Nacional cacao from Ecuador most likely claims the greatest degree of complexity among all dark chocolates. Floral, fruity, nutty, and vegetal/ earthy notes are all characteristics of Nacional cacao, and in some cases can all be perceived in the same bar of Ecuadorian dark chocolate. However, their relative levels of expression do highly depend on production methods. In our experience at To’ak—without going in to too great of detail—we have found that shorter fermentation times and shorter conch times both serve to highlight the floral components, with orange blossoms and jasmine the most frequently cited. As both fermentation times and conch times grow longer, the flavor profile starts to veer toward the fruity side of the spectrum, although this only holds true up to a certain point. Notes of red fruits (cherry, raspberry, cranberry), dark fruits (plum, raisins, black mission fig), citrus (often grapefruit), and even tropical fruits (banana, occasionally mango) are all capable of presenting themselves. Earthy and grassy notes are another feature found in Ecuadorian dark chocolate, which sometimes moves into the woody realm of oak, pine, even eucalyptus. © by To’ak Ecuador Cía. Ltda.

Aging chocolate, in the style employed by To’ak (in barrels or other vessels) exerts yet another influence on flavor profile. Chemical processes such as oxidation, as well as extractable compounds present in the barrel, can also steer the flavor profile in any number of interesting ways which are too complex for the scope of this tasting guide. To learn more, download our Vintage Chocolate e-book on our website, which delves into the science and art of aging chocolate.

COMPLEXITY Chapter 9

Pay attention to how the flavor evolves over time. A complex chocolate will unfold like a miniature movie inside your mouth, with a cast of different characters and a developing plot line.

FINISH Chapter 10

Last but not least, observe the finish. Does the flavor sensation disappear shortly after the chocolate melts, or does it linger? What are the final sensations? How do you feel in the afterglow?

AND AGAIN! Your moods, hormonal balance, and general body chemistry are constantly in flux, and you’d be surprised at the extent to which this influences your flavor and aroma perception. When a professional chocolate taster analyzes a bar of dark chocolate, he or she will taste the same bar of chocolate at various different times of the day, often over the course of several days. Each tasting will yield a different range of impressions. Part of the pleasure of comprehensively tasting a © by To’ak Ecuador Cía. Ltda.

bar of dark chocolate is to experience it from various different angles—as if you’re trying to get to know someone on an intimate level. Some chocolates will seduce you immediately; others may do so over time.