TODO Austin September 2009 by EQ Austin Journal

Is it four or six?

Robert Rodriguez

Jessica Alba

Danny Trejo

Villa’s Music Garden

Villa’s Arts Crafts Show

Ruben Ramos LIVE

Music - Food - Drinks

September 18 4406 S. Congress

Saturday Sunday September 19 September 20 11-6 11-5

A-1 Auto Body & Electric 24 HOUR TOWING

BODY SHOP

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4408 South Congress Ave. INSURANCE CLAIMS * ALTERNATORS * STARTERS * ELECTRICAL SHORTS * MARINE * REWIRING

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“Still Passion,” a photography exhibition by the always fascinating Russ Smith, is now showing at Wyatt Brand’s offices through the first week of November, M-F from 9:30-5 p.m. (107 Leland St., #4. 512.904.9928). The exhibit captures moments from performance art and includes a series of striking images of Lucia Rodriguez, a local dancer who performed seven seasons with Ballet East Dance Theatre and died tragically in Austin one month ago in a car accident. Photographer Viviane Vives contributed to Rodriguez’s display. Smith is a long-time Austin artist and arts entrepreneur, and the multi-talented principal of Chocolate Media. The exhibition gives a glimpse of Smith’s interest in unfettered emotion, a theme echoed in his work throughout his prolific career. On Sunday, Sept. 13th, DiverseArts Culture Works and Bemba Entertainment host “Bemba Beat Mexico,” a musical showcase under the stars featuring traditional Mexican sounds. This last installment of the summer-long concert series brings International and World music to the heart of the East Side. Performing in honor of Dias y Seis are Leticia Rodriguez at 8:15 p.m. and Azul at 9:30 p.m. Rodriguez revives classical bolero compositions and musica tropical from the 1920’s -1950’s golden era. Azul is a solo artist who draws from Mexican folk roots and uses a broad range of cultural influences in her music, giving life to the narratives of Mexican history. Doors open at 7:00 p.m. at Kenny Dorham’s Backyard, 1106 East 11th St.. $5 cover. For more info call 512.477.9438. As Austin Area Interreligious Ministries CEO Tom Spencer tells it, “several years ago, when writing about the need for conversations that build lasting relationships, Betty Sue Flowers (former LBJ Library director and UT Prof) recommended that corporations and other organizations place red benches in their public spaces. The idea was simple—by sitting on one of these red benches you were signaling to others that you were open to a conversation about something that really matters to you.” In that spirit, AAIM is unveiling a new interfaith dialogue program called “The Red Bench: Interfaith Conversations that Matter.” The first gathering, focusing on forgiveness, is Tuesday, Sept. 15th, 5:30 p.m. at First United Methodist Church (Lavaca and 13th St.). “Bohemian Beat Night” is where the hippest of hipsters hang with Austin’s always inspiring New Age traveler, Jesse Sublett, for music, art and spoken word. Ruta Maya International Headquarters (3601 S. Congress ) is the place to be on Thursday, Sept. 17 at 9:00 p.m. For $5 you can go Maynard G. Krebs with the legendary authormusician and host of the happening, Sublett, with featured performers Ricardo Acevedo, Rob Halverson, Doug Marcis, Harold McMillan, Thom Moon 10, Bruce Salmon, Chris Vestre, Word Jazz Low Stars and special guests. The celebration of words, beats and crazy melodies go down every third Thursday. “Say Something,” as Bob Marley sings, for peace with the Student Peace Alliance as they take to the streets on Saturday, Sept. 19th from 5:00 p.m.-8 p.m. SPA will meet at the Capitol’s south steps and walk to City Hall for the purpose of raising awareness about youth violence and the Youth Promise Act. The walk will conclude at City Hall Plaza with student speakers and live music. “We’re a national organization dedicated to developing support for, and carrying out, peace building initiatives in our federal government and local communities,” says SPA’s Martin Fergus. “The purpose of the walk is to raise awareness about the severity of youth violence in this country and the importance of passing the Act, H.R.1064 in the U.S. House of Representatives. Our generation calls for peace now.” “Health Alliance for Austin Musicians Benefit Day” arrives Tuesday, Sept. 22 when businesses across Austin will be supporting the city’s hard-working music-makers by donating 5% of the day’s proceeds to HAAM. Throughout the day, beginning at 6 a.m. and rolling until 2 a.m., over 90 musical performances will take place in offices, restaurants, retail outlets, hotels, clubs and a car wash as well as the airport and Austin City Hall. More than 170 Austin-area businesses have answered the call to participate this year, the 4th anniversary, and individual donations will be matched (up to $25,000) by Topfer Family Foundation, all to help HAAM provide affordable healthcare services to our musicians. For more info 512.324.3414. Cooler evenings mark the arrival of high season in Austin film quarters and Fantastic Fest, Sept. 24-Oct. 1, has movie lovers in a tizzy. The largest genre film festival in the U.S., specializing in horror, fantasy, sci-fi, and action pictures from all around the world, the festival also presents features and shorts from around the world, and plenty of premieres of new, up-and-coming films. Then there are the have-to-be-there gala events, daytrips, outings, panels and special events. held each year, primarily at the Alamo Drafthouse Cinema on South Lamar. As Fantastic Fest director/co-founder Tim League says, “fully engage in the process.” Check www.fantasticfest.com for all the latest. Here’s how to celebrate a birthday. Mark and Sarah Gonzales are eschewing Mark’s own celebration by helping sponsor “Band Together for Hope,” a charity event for the Discover Hope Fund (www.lendhope.org) which provides women living in poverty with microcredit and classes to create businesses and foster abundance for their families and communities. The Good Life Team Outdoor Venue at 1114 E. Cesar Chavez (next to Big Red Sun) is the place to be from 6-10 p.m. on Saturday, Sept. 26th with music by the Mother Truckers and Stonehoney. A $25 cover includes free food from Cantina Laredo, drinks from Tito’s Vodka and Sabor Azul Margaritas. For more info call 512.577.0311. Happy Birthday Mark!

Fest Hispano de Salud Something to Celebrate

Ramadan: A Time for Reflection

From the Editor

This year marks the 199th anniversary of Mexico’s independence and Univision Radio Austin is marking the milestone at the Independence Day family festival, “Fiestas Patrias” 2009, on Sunday, September 13 from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. at the Travis County Expo Center, located at 7311 Decker Lane. The free event is an especially important date on the calendar for another reason: its health fair, the 16th annual “Festival Hispano de la Salud” (11 a.m. to 3 p.m.), presented by the American Heart Association.

To Austin’s fast growing Muslim population, Ramadan is a month of fasting from dawn until sunset. It is a time of intensive worship and devotion to God, a time of reading the Qur’an and inner reflection, of comprehensive thanksgiving and giving to charity, of selfcontrol and kindness, of training oneself to be a good, moral person, and a time for doing good deeds. All of this is to a gift to be shared with others and that’s just what the folks at the Institute of Interfaith Dialog are doing determinedly.

This month I’d like to introduce you to indispensible members of the TODO Austin family, TODO Austin journal’s Art Director, Dave McClinton and TODO Austinonline.com webmaster and webdesigner Karin Dreyer and our online video producer/editor Daniel DeLoach.

The health fair event is set in a fiesta-style atmosphere and provides critical information about heart health and overall wellness. Thousands of Hispanics, especially those who do not have medical insurance, have come to rely on the complimentary health screenings provided at the festival. Blood pressure, glucose, vision and dental screenings are just a few of the services that are provided at no cost to the participants. The Center for Disease Control and Prevention statistics show that 9.4% of Hispanic Americans are in poor health, and that almost one in three Latinos over 18 are without health insurance.

The Institute is a non-profit organization whose primary goal is to help bring together people from various faith and secular communities in order to promote compassion, cooperation, partnership and community service through interfaith dialog and conversation. With their mission in mind, IID has designed a free Ramadan Iftar Dinner for Thursday, September 10, 7:30 p.m., at the Travis County Sheriff’s Office, Keith Ruiz Community Room #118 (5555 Airport Boulevard in Austin).

Fiestas Patrias will also include displays from Texas Parks and Wildlife and a Safety Fair presented by Nationwide that features organizations that provide information to the community on how to avoid home and work related accidents. Entertainment will be provided on three stages. Among the cast of performers are Horoscopos de Durango, El Trono de Mexico, Roy Lozano’s Ballet Folklorico de Texas, Splendi2, Tati and many more. Binational Health Week follows from October 3rd through the 15th. The Consulate General of Mexico in Austin and several organizations have created a series of events for all the community to focus on prevention of addictions, nutrition, prevention of strokes and living green. “Ventanilla de Salud” will provide immigrant and Latino families culturally appropriate health education, free health screenings, and referrals to community health services in partnership with the Consulate. BHW activities will include a soccer tournament (San Antonio vs. Austin) on Sunday, Oct. 4th, 11 a.m.–6 p.m. at Southeast Metropolitan Park; a health fair on Wednesday, Oct. 7th, 8:30 a.m.–noon, and an alcohol abuse workshop on the same date, both at the Consulate, from 10 a.m. – noon; a stroke prevention workshop (with nutrition and other topics) on Oct. 8th, 5:30 p.m.-7:30 pm. at Seton; a series of six public health enrollment workshops on Saturday, Oct. 10th, 9 a.m.-noon with Catholic Charities at six locations in Central Texas; a mural unveiling (to be created during BHW by the Boys and Girls Club) on Friday, Oct. 16th 5:30-6:30 p.m. and a closing ceremony at Southwest Key. A nutrition workshop, a breast cancer workshop and a men’s sexual health workshop are also scheduled. For the latest call 512.478.2866, ext.117 -- Dean Windsor

Since Muslims in many parts of the world prepare and eat dinner at the same time during this month, Ramadan emphasizes community and generosity. Muslims often invite one another, friends and non-Muslim guests to share their evening meal, called an Iftar, and to exchange gifts and best wishes as they break their daily Ramadan fast. IID is dedicated to encouraging the study of the global communities’ spiritual traditions from the vantage point of respect, accuracy, and appreciation and would like to share your thoughts. For more information on the dinner and other events, contact austin@ interfaithdialog.org Intercultural Friendship and Dialog Dinners are another way IID meets its goal of creating “remarkable opportunities for mutual understanding and for creating a society rooted in common values.” Two such dinner offerings are scheduled for September. The first will be held Wednesday, September 9, 2009, 7:30 p.m., at the Lt. Governor’s Reception Room (2E-16) on the 2nd floor of the Texas State Capitol. The second dinner will take place on Monday, September 28 at 6:00 p.m. at the Mayor’s Balcony, Austin City Hall, 301 W. 2nd Street. Purity of thoughts and actions is stressed by IID and the Ramadan fast is intended to be an exacting act of deep personal worship in which Muslims seek a raised awareness of closeness to God.

KLRU’s Maya & Miguel at ‘08 Fiestas Patrias

Karin Dreyer, a native of South Africa, began her multi-media career after she graduated in New Media with Web Communications and Visual Design. She has since opened InspirePie Design a web design & development company. Her website can be viewed at www.inspirepie. com. The web company focuses on websites for local and international small businesses, start up companies, entrepreneurs and non-profits.

Binational Health Week Teaches a Healthy Lifestyle

04 TODO Austin // September 2009 // todoaustinonline.com

Daniel DeLoach is an award-winning video and film producer, director and editor whose talents have won him numerous awards for his short animation, documentaries and advertising videos and commercials. His client list spans the gamut from Kingsford Charcoal to Pepsi, the NBA, HP Computers, Blockbuster Video, and the U.S. Army. He is currently producing video features for TODO Austin’s new website, TODOAustinonline. com and working on a documentary about a man who saves deer in the Austin suburbs and the people who hate him. Visit Danny’s website at www.deloachfilms.com.

TODO Austin Volume I, Number 004 Publisher/Editor - Gavin Lance Garcia

Institute of Interfaith Dialog’s Iftar Dinner

Art Director - Dave McClinton www.dmdesigninc.com Production Director - Mark Gates el Gato Blanco Contributing Writers/Artists - Deborah Alys Carter, Isabel Corona, Kathleen Fitzgerald, Tyler Guthrie, Philip Jones, Alexandra M. Landeros, Oliver Nicolas, Tom Palaima, Roberto Pena, Marion Sanchez, Maverick Shaw, Kristina Vallejo, Kuetzpalin Vasquez, Dean Windsor, Jill Winters

The Ramadan Iftar and Friendship Dinners are two ways IID demonstrates their idea that people can live together, regardless of group, faith, or ideology. IID volunteers endeavor and encourage all to do what they can to promote dialogue, respect and understanding among all peoples of the worlds, regardless of differences and certain adverse conditions. For more information on the dinners, write austin@interfaithdialog.org. -- Kathleen Fiztgerald

Dave McClinton is one of Austin’s most prolific graphic designers. His unique outlook results in work that transcends the ordinary. The consensus view is that he has an insightful ability to determine what his clients want and need before they’re able to express it themselves. During his career, his talent has also been reflected in his abundant contributions to nonprofits as diverse as his impressive list of clients. See Dave’s work at www.dmdesigninc.com

Advertising sales@todoaustinonline.com Kathleen Fitzgerald, Tyler Guthrie TODO Austin is published by Spark Awakened Publishing. © 2009 Spark Awakened Publishing. All rights reserved. Unsolicited submissions (including, but not limited to articles, artwork, photographs) are not returned.

Dave McClinton

photographed by

Lesley Nowlin

Sheyla Morataya, sitting in her living room, hands her crying guest some tissues. She comforts her, and assures her that in time, things will improve. This is a usual afternoon for Morataya, an Austin writer, speaker, and life coach. She consults with Hispanic women such as herself. For many of the women she sees, the common hardships of life, love and success are compounded by living in a new and alien place, where cultural and linguistic barriers abound.

By Roberto Pena

“When I moved to this country 13 years ago,” Morataya says, her eyes fixated on the woman drying the tears from her eyes, “I wondered if I would ever truly call it home. Now that I can, now that I am truly happy, I have a responsibility to help others that have come after me.” Morataya came to the United States after enduring years of civil war in her native El Salvador. She left behind her career and accomplishments there in hopes of finding something more here in the U.S. “Be happy if the past pulls at you,” she says; “that’s a sign that you’ve been blessed.” It was not long after arriving in this country that she realized there were not many voices in her community speaking to experiences like hers. “I had all of these questions, which soon became answers.” Morataya pats the young woman on the back. “It doesn’t take long to realize there are many women out there who need just that.” So she started to listen, and talk, and mentor.

She began to make a name for herself by listening to the hardships of the women who had followed in her footsteps and encouraging them to not only find comfort and answers, but the self-esteem necessary to thrive. “In Hispanic culture we often overlook the importance of self-esteem. With these women, who feel like they cannot even communicate, there is little internal strength for them to draw on.” Looking again at the woman she has encouraged to draw on that strength, she adds “and without that strength they just lose hope. I try my best to give them that.” This mission has kept Morataya busy. The holder of a Masters Degree in Marriage and Family from the University of Navarre in Spain, she studied Logotherapy in Mexico, Development of Feminine Identity in Italy, and Co-Active Coaching at the prestigious Coaches Training Institute, she realized that talking to one person at a time wasn’t going to solve an entire cultural phenomenon. So she did what so many of her idols did. She started to write. “I never thought about writing a book when I was younger,” Morataya says, cradling the book with a proud smile on her face. “But, they say writers truly excel when the words inside them burst forth out of need—when their insight is necessary.” She has written a self-esteem book, “Más allá de la autoestima: El amor visto en femenino” (Beyond Self-Esteem: Love through Feminine

Eyes), as well as several shorter works. She is hoping to continue the trend with more efforts that will reach out to the Hispanic community. “As long as there is that need for people who have taken that path, I will keep writing, mentoring and speaking to whoever needs me.” At a Borders bookstore in Austin, dozens of women line up and shake hands with Morataya, holding copies of her book. They ask her questions about their husbands, finding work, and raising children who aren’t spoiled. They smile, they share anecdotes and they hug. But most importantly, Sheyla says, they hope. “I see that glimmer in their eyes, when we talk, or when they tell me that the book opened their eyes to their worth as a person, and I realize that whatever time I spent locked away typing was worthwhile.” You can read more on Morataya on her website, www.SheylaOnline.com.

Chee Yun

Harvest Moon Celebration The Austin Asian American Cultural Center will host its annual Harvest Moon Celebration on Saturday, September 12 from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. The festival will feature Asian and Pacific Rim cultural performances and martial arts demonstrations, as well as a moonwalk and activities for the entire family. There will also be resource booths and traditional Asian foods. For more info go to www.asianamericancc.com

TCA MELA

Hosted by the Gujarati Community of Great Austin, this event features dancing, and snacks will be provided. The festival will be held FridaysSaturdays, September 18, 19, 25 and 26 from 8:00 p.m.-12 midnight. The Millennium Youth Entertainment Complex is located at 1156 Hargrave Street in Austin, and admission ranges from $8-$15. For more information, go to www.gujaratisamajaustin.org

Austin Museum Day

The Telugu Cultural Association of Austin presents its 2009 TCA MELA on September 12 from 3:30-8:00 p.m. at Murchison Middle School, 3700 North Hills Drive. Admission for TCA members & children under 18 is free while non-members pay $5. Enjoy an evening of fun and food with various items for sale at vendor stalls and fun activities for kids. For more information contact Anitha Gorti at 512-589-8333 or go to www.austintelugu.org

The annual Austin Museum Day — a free, city-wide rediscovery of Austin museums, produced by the Austin Museum Partnership, will be held Sunday, September 20. Last year, more than 22,000 visitors enjoyed local exhibits and activities at 31 participating institutions. The Austin Museum Partnership is a consortium of Austin-area museums organized in 1998 to promote collaborations for the mutual benefit of the public and the museums. Go to www.austinmuseums.org for more information.

Navratri Festival 2009

Volleyball with an Italian Flair

The Navratri Festival 2009 will be held at the Millennium Youth Entertainment Complex on two blockbuster weekends in September.

The Texas Longhorns Women’s Volleyball Team will host the Italian National A2 team September 11-12 at Gregory Gym on the University

of Texas campus. After a 12-day summer tour in Europe, Coach Jerritt Elliott invited the Italian National A2 team to help the Longhorns open the 2009 season. Texas returns three All-Americans (Ashley Engle, Destinee Hooker and Juliann Faucette) and the Big 12 Freshman of the Year (Michelle Kocher) from last year’s NCAA Semifinalist squad. The first 1,000 fans to the Friday match receive back-to-back Big 12 Championship pennants. For tickets and more information, go to www.texassports.com

Chee-Yun on Violin Internationally renowned violinist Chee-Yun will play with the Austin Symphony October 9 and 10 at 8:00 p.m. at the Dell Hall of the Long Center for the Performing arts. Chee-Yun will play Mendelssohn’s Violin Concerto in E Minor, Op. 64 and the program will also include Bruckner’s Symphony No. 4 in E-flat Major “Romantic.” Conductor Peter Bay welcomes Chee-Yun for her second program with the Austin Symphony Orchestra. She has played with all the major symphonies in the United States and many orchestras throughout the world. You can preview Chee-Yun’s talents and purchase tickets to this event at the ASO website at www.austinsymphony.org

Hot Time at Güero’s For great tunes and great rita’s! Please join us for live music on our outside Jardin Stage, every Thursday through Sunday. All outdoor shows are “weather permitting”

September Line-up Thu Fri Sat Sun

9/3 BOBBY FUENTES & FRIENDS 9/4 LOS FLAMES 9/5 SHAWN PITTMAN 9/6 TEX THOMAS & HIS DANGLIN’ WRANGLERS

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Thu Fri Sat Sun

9/10 THE FABS 9/11 LOS FLAMES 9/12 NATALIE ZOE 9/13 THE TEXAS TYCOONS

Thu Fri Sat Sun

9/17 MAX RIOS & THE WAYSIDERS 9/18 LOS FLAMES 9/19 THE SPENCER THOMAS BAND 9/20 PONTY BONE & THE SQUEEZETONES

Thu Fri Sat Sun

1412 S. Congress Avenue • Austin, Texas 78704 Open Weekdays 11am-11pm; Weekends 8am-11pm

9/24 JOHNNY GIMBLE 9/25 LOS FLAMES 9/26 MARY WELCH Y LOS CURANDEROS 9/27 CHICKEN STRUT

www.GuerosTacoBar.com

TODO: What are your thoughts on the state of education in Austin as you prepare to move?

Austin Community College Board of Trustees vice chairwoman Veronica Rivera announced earlier this summer she was leaving Austin to take a position in Washington, D.C. as education and policy attorney and interim regional director for the Mexican American Legal Defense and Educational Fund. Rivera, a UT Law graduate and past President of the Hispanic Bar Association of Austin, was a co-founder of Las Comadres, a network for Hispanic women, and also served on boards for numerous foundations and councils. The attorney, recently of Akers, & Boulware-Wells, LLP, shared some observations on local issues with TODO Austin on the eve of her departure. TODO: You’ve lived in Austin during an incredible time of growth, which has had its good points and its challenges. What are some of the most meaningful moments you’ve experienced? Rivera: Being a part of the grand opening of Austin Community College’s South Austin Campus, which is located across the street from Crocket High School. The seamless transition between high school and college that we are working hard to achieve is one step closer through the joint programs that are being offered by these two institutions. TODO: Watching the Mexican American population grow in Austin during your time here, what are your lasting impressions of their effect on a changing city?

Rivera: Continued collaboration between the school district, college, university and business communities is key in ensuring that we have an educated workforce that will continue to assist in having a thriving economy in our city. TODO: What are the strengths of our community, or unique aspects which we can be proud of? Rivera: Our community is one that is highly educated and we need to use that as a means to make sure that we bring along those who are participating or thinking of participating in the education pipeline to the same level. We are never too old to learn or to mentor.

Rivera: The impact can be seen by the cultural celebrations that we continue to have and that more people are attending such as Cinco de Mayo, Diez y Seis de Septiembre and Dia de los Muertos festival by Mexic-Arte Museum. The opening of the Mexican American Cultural Center was a big milestone in showcasing our culture to the rest of the community. Also, this past school year, AISD became a majority minority school district. I look forward to meeting the graduating class of 2021, for these are our future leaders. However, we will need to overcome the language and socioeconomic barriers that these students are facing in order to ensure they succeed. Our city needs to have an open dialog of the challenges we face in educating minority students and invest in educational programs that will assist in meeting their needs throughout their time in K-12 and beyond. TODO: Your work with our friend Nora Comstock and Las Comadres has been terrific. What will you take away from that experience? Rivera: Through Las Comadres I have found how important it is to have organizations for Latinas. We have built a network of Latina women that we can be proud of which continues to be recognized not only nationally but internationally, due to Nora’s and the board’s hard work. I will continue to serve on the board assisting in growing the network and ensuring that our mission to connect and empower Latinas continues.

TODO: Your work at ACC with sustainable practices policy has been a great success. Why did it work out so well and what can you take away from that experience? Rivera: The timing could not have been better. It took about a year and a half of researching and discussing policies that had been adopted at other colleges and universities. The experience was eye-opening and we could not have adopted a policy without the input of other groups within the college that were also looking into sustainable practices and good friends in the community that have been working on sustainable practices most of their careers. I found that resources are abundant on the subject and although I personally did not have the knowledge when we started this venture there were so many folks out there that were willing to share theirs to make this policy a reality. We now have a living, breathing policy that will be looked at by the board on an annual basis and adjusted as necessary.

Rivera: Yes, and I’m hopeful that it will happen. Although, as a community, we believe we are culturally sensitive, the ethnic slurs on talk radio and its aftermath have indicated that racism is alive and well in our city. We need to continue to recognize and embrace our cultural differences, if we want to bring about change. TODO: What are some of the challenges you’ll face as education and policy attorney for the Mexican American Legal Defense Fund (MALDEF)? Rivera: The biggest challenge is making sure that while MALDEF has a seat at the table because of its longstanding reputation of being an advocate for civil rights, that we actually affect change. TODO: As you move on, what is your wish for Austin? Rivera: That diversity and cultural awareness continue to be embraced by our community and that we invest both monetarily and by volunteering in the education of our students not only at the elementary and secondary level but also in higher education, so that Austin can continue to thrive.

TODO: There have been some high profile ethnic conflicts in Austin recently, from police shootings to talk radio ethnic slurs, etc. Do you see the potential in Austin to have true public discourse on race?

TODO Austin // September 2009 // todoaustinonline.com 07

The assumed premise of “Machete”—a vengeful undocumented worker sets out to kill the corrupt white politicians who wronged him—could have been ripped from the night terrors of Lou Dobbs. This man isn’t only taking “Hard-working, bluecollar American” jobs, he’s taking “American” lives. The buzz about the film, which has begun shooting in Austin, is just in time for National Hispanic Heritage Month. by Philip Jones

THE UNDERCURRENT OF RACE

A STUDY IN GENRE

It’s no surprise that the idea for “Machete” was born in 2006, when the immigration debate raged across the country and our melting pot was beyond the boiling point. In the three year interim, public outrage has shifted to bailouts, health care and presidential shout outs to the nation’s children. Immigration, and the greater issues of relations with Hispanics, however, is still a quicksand under the foundation of our arm-chair politicking. You need only have watched the debate surrounding Supreme Court Justice Sonia Sotomayor’s nomination and her reverence for the “wise Latina” to see the knee-jerk reactions that demonstrate the subtle racial tension that no one wants to claw into the open. This is where the movie comes in. “Machete” is unlikely to be scholarly in its approach to the issue of race relations, but the premise certainly grabs us by the collar through an outrageous plot that draws on unspoken fear and issues of race. People lining up on opening night are going to expect to see Danny Trejo (who plays the title character) kill a lot of folks that deserve it, but that doesn’t preclude a greater—though indirect—discussion of race. The self-contained trailer presented in “Grindhouse” (which inspired the full-feature of “Machete”) already did a good job of that. The awareness woven into the theme (and already displayed on the casting) suggests that the end result will be a conversation starter. Whatever the outcome of Rodriguez and crew’s efforts, the product will elicit a hearty dialog about what it means to be Hispanic in America. Dr. Jennifer Fuller, a media historian and member of the University of Texas Radio Television and Film department, points out that movies don’t have to be high-drama to be participants in discourse on race. “Talking about race is not the exclusive domain of ‘serious’ films,” Fuller said. “’Blazing Saddles’ is a good example. ‘Undercover Brother’ is a more recent one.” Fuller points out that those films present the themes of race, and that itself makes them significant. “I think all films take themselves seriously,” Fuller says, “they might be parody, self-referential and so on, but they are the result of a lot of labor by filmmakers, actors and everyone involved, and those people take what they’re doing seriously, even if it’s comedy or otherwise over the top.”

“Grindhouse,” the project that spun the original trailer for “Machete,” was a study in the exploitation films of the 70s. There were hundreds of such movies across dozens of genres (the ubiquitous “Blaxploitation” being the best known.) Surprisingly, there wasn’t as much attention to the Hispanic market during the heyday of genre films. “Mexploitation” didn’t really have much of a following. That was true until, somewhat ironically, director Robert Rodriguez himself gained notoriety with movies like “Mariachi” and “Desperado,” each influenced by his Hispanic heritage. In a way, Rodriguez is harkening back to a genre he himself defined. That self-referential nature is one of the areas that make the movie, which is just being committed to celluloid, already interesting.

08 TODO Austin // September 2009 // todoaustinonline.com

THE MAKING The movie has inherent importance to Hispanics since it’s helmed by a Hispanic director and features a Hispanic lead. Latino artists are beginning to take their share of screens across the nation, and Central Texas has featured prominently in the trend. Simon Orta, an Austin community arts leader, hopes the trend continues, for the benefit of Latinos. “As an actor and writer myself, I feel that our time has come. Meaning our culture is front and center and more so in the film industry,” Orta states.

A STUDY IN CONTRASTS The phenomenon of “Machete” has already gained steam, largely due to its cast. Big names are attached, and most of them are surprising choices for one reason or another. Trejo is playing the archetypical tough-guy, wheelman, silent dangerous type that he has played so ably in the past. This movie is undeniably his. Beyond Trejo one finds Robert DeNiro and Steven Seagal, two actors whose projects seldom overlap. But the most interesting contrast may lie between Trejo and Jessica Alba, both of Hispanic heritage, but from vastly different circumstances. Trejo’s life story speaks to the difficulties of being a young Latino with long odds for success. To his credit, he overcame

adversity in spades, overcoming drug addictions and prison terms to become a prolific actor. Alba, on the other hand, lives the life of a third-generation Hispanic whose family made the decision to try to assimilate as best as possible. She said in an interview that her grandfather chose not to speak any Spanish to the children, a decision made by many Hispanic immigrants. “(My Grandfather) didn’t want his kids to be different. I always felt like such an outcast and now I feel like people are more diverse ethnically.” The Hispanic experience in America is varied. From recent immigrants to fifth and sixth generation Americans who don’t speak a word of Spanish, the subtle expectation exists that there must be some biting similarity in the Hispanic experience. There doesn’t have to be. “It’s up to the directors and writers to make sure that Latinos are well represented and properly showcased in any film,” Orta contends. “It is a huge responsibility for them to make sure our culture is presented in its richness and complexity emphasizing the contemporary as well as our traditional attributes.” How these themes present themselves in the movie (if they do at all) is anyone’s guess, but they are already worth exploring as the movie starts filming. It’s too early, of course, to start speaking of the cultural impact of “Machete,” beyond the trailer and what filming represents for Austin. But given the fact that September is National Hispanic Heritage Month, there is much to be said for how Austin is taking center stage in a film that will start some lively, and likely entertaining, conversations about Hispanics’ identity in America. This is where the audience steps in. We take the laughs and thrills, but also acknowledge this as a catalyst for discussion. Danny Trejo literally sticking it to the man with a very large knife offers a unique opportunity to sidle up to the issues that have been absent from public discourse. Those images (soon appearing at a cinema near you) are terrifying to those men and women who watch the border between the U.S. and Mexico with cameras from their computers hoping to catch border-crossers. I doubt they will be lining up on opening night. But I probably will.

The historic, diverse, eclectic and rapidly growing

EAST END 11th Street - Jazz + Arts District. Come see what you didn’t know was right under your nose.

EATS + DRINKS + LIVE MUSIC Blue Dahlia BISTRO 1115 E. 11th St. // 542-9542 www.bluedahliabistro.com East Side PIES 1401 Rosewood Ave. // 524-0933 www.eastsidepies.com HOOVER’S Cooking 1104 E. 11th St. www.hooverscooking.com J Kelly’s BBQ 900 E. 11th Street // 499-0910 http://jkellysbbq.com/ Kenny Dorham’s BACKYARD 1106 E. 11th St. // 477-9438 www.diversearts.org LongBranch INN 1133 E. 11th St. // 472-5477 www.scoot-inn.com Primize Osteria ITALIAN Cafe & Wine Bar Primizie CATERING//472-9299 1000 E. 11th St., Suite 150 // 236-0088 www.primizieaustin.com

DiverseARTS 902 Juniper St. // 477-9438 www.diversearts.org

Eastbound ACUPUNCTURE 1210 Rosewood Ave. // 506-1608 www.eastboundacupuncture.com

Door Number 3 1050 E. 11th St., Suite 250 // 391-1773 www.dn3austin.com

East Side YOGA 1050 E. 11th St. www.eastsideyoga-austin.com

Duel PURPOSE 1111 E. 11th St. #250//863-529-6963 www.duelpurpose.com

SOMA Vida 1210 Rosewood Ave. // 628-1580 www.somavidaaustin.com

ECLECTIC Images Photography 1200 E. 11TH St. #101 // 947.7864 www.eclecticimagesphotography.com

STYLE Rite Beauty Salon 1000 E. 11th St. // 472-5731

Paperoot STATIONERY 1210 Rosewood Ave //334-9199 www.paperoot.com ProArts COLLECTIVE 1009 E. 11th St., Suite 100 // 236-0644 www.proartsaustin.org Shoehorn DESIGN 1010 E. 11th St. // 478-4190 www.shoehorndesign.com Staats PHOTOGRAPHY 1150 San Bernard Ave. // 473-2277 www.peterstaats.com

VICTORY Grill 1104 E. 11th St. // 472-8669 www.historicvictorygrill.org

Studio 107 1111 E. 11th St., Suite 100 // 477-9092 www.studio107.com

ARTS + DESIGN + CREATIVES

YOGA + SERVICES + SALONS

Bercy Chen STUDIO 1111 E. 11th St. Suite 200 // 481-0092 www.bcarc.com

Austin NATURAL Family Medicine 1210 Rosewood Ave. // 909-1600 www.somavidaaustin.com

BYDEE Art Gallery 1050 E. 11th St., Suite 120 // 480-3100 www.bydee.com

Complements by Abram Professional Hair Designer 1101 Navasosta, Suite 2 // 469-9400

Telepathic TATTOO 1101 Navasota, Suite 1 // 478-5752 Tim Sample MASSAGE Therapy 1210 Rosewood Avenue // 426-0083 www.somavidaaustin.com

STORES + SHOPS + GROCERY Car-Nu CARWASH 1201 East 11th St. // 494-0023 Harrie’s ANTIQUES 1000 E. 11th St. // 322-5147 Ideal SOUL Mart 1326 Rosewood Ave. // 320-9929 J & J Drug 1131 E. 11th St. // 472-5328 QUICKIE Pickie 1208 E. 11th St. // 479-0136

Trailer Space RECORD Store 1401 A Rosewood Ave. // 542-9001 www.trailerspacerecords.com VROOM Scooters 1111 E. 11th St. #150 // 524-1455 www.vroomscooters.net

MORE BUSINESSES ‘N SUCH Austin REVITALIZATION Authority 1105 Navasota St. // 469-1705 www.austinrev.org Balcones RECYCLING 1101 E. 11th St. // 472-3355 www.balconesresources.com BiGAUSTIN 1050 E. 11th St., Suite 350 // 928-8010 www.bigaustin.org Carver Museum and CULTURAL Center 1165 Angelina St. // 974-4926 http://ci.austin.tx.us/carver/ ECOXERA 1111 E. 11th St. #100//628-1300 www.ecoxera.com Esperanza DEVELOPMENT 1111 E. 11th St., Suite 250//480-9844 www.esperanzadev.com NOKOA-The Observer 1154 Angelina St., Suite B // 499-8713 www.nokoatheobserver.com

RS FOODS 1219 Rosewood Ave. // 320-0082

Paradigm Shift Charles Medearis - Attorney at Law Sandra Ramos Political CONSULTING 1200 E. 11th St.

Snake Eyes VINYL 1101 Navasota // 220-7019 www.snakeeyesvinyl.com

The VILLAGER 1223 Rosewood Ave. // 476-0082 www.theaustinvillager.com

Congratulations to

Ruben Ramos

and The Mexican Revolution From the Austin Tejano Music Coalition For The 2009 Grammy Winning Album {Best Tejano Album} “!Viva La Revolucion!” Join us at Villa’s Music Garden Friday, September 18 as we honor Ruben Ramos and the Mexican Revolution 4406 South Congress Ave • 444.5551 Revolution Entertainment Bookings: 512.280.8989 www.rubenramos.com

Lynn Santos

Ken Manceaux

Agent/Realtor Capital City Realtors,LLC www.CCRinAustin.com 512-944-0424 Cell mlsantos@sbcglobal.net Se Habla Espanol

Broker/Owner Capital City Realtors,LLC www.CCRinAustin.com 512-825-1795 Cell 512-301-3577 Office kmanceaux@austin.rr.com

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Todd Wolfson—an affable photographer and bonafide member of Austin music royalty—is describing his body of work in his usual self-effacing way. “It’s fun,” he chuckles in relating the motivation behind his art. “That’s my Zen answer to that one.” At 49, Wolfson is an award-winning shutterbug, noted for his insightful portraits of Austin’s musicians and their lifestyles, who has left an extraordinary impression on his hometown of the past 30 years. His work is everywhere and widely admired, from print to electronic media to record sleeves. Todd V. Wolfson has become a local metaphor for generosity and creativity. A day with Wolfson might involve a morning creative session with Alejandro Escovedo for an album cover when a young model shows up, anxious to see her thumbnails. From a back room of Wolfson’s home, David Garza sidesteps a disheveled singer-songwriter rummaging through a refrigerator as he beavers away on a beat-up guitar. The phone rings and a shy voice mumbles a request for pro bono work for a struggling non-profit. “Yes, alright,” is Wolfson’s answer. The afternoon is filled with creating posters, developing shoot treatments, filing promotional pictures and replying to a seemingly phonebooklength stream of online mail wherein he grants nearly unrestricted access to his copyrighted images at no charge to his artist subjects. Evenings are a marathon of social soirees and club dates. The work is constant, but the hours are long and the income modest; not that Wolfson seems to mind. “I get to meet the most wonderful people and collaborate; it’s just the energy of the people. The disadvantages? Well, you’re living by your art, trying to make a living by your art in the modern world. Put food on the table. It’s about the humanity of it all, how enriching the work is.” Born in Columbus, Ohio and raised in Tulsa, Oklahoma, Wolfson is mostly self-taught. “I started just shooting, like using my grandparents’ and parents’ movie cameras and still cameras when I was seven. I had a Brownie, then got a 126 Instamatic, then a Polaroid, a Swinger, all those. “When I got a close up shot of Alice Cooper with an Instamatic and sold it at my junior high, I thought, hey, photography could be a profession. I never thought of doing anything else. Moving to Austin was kind of the perfect place to be for me.” In August, 1979, he made it to Austin to experience the burgeoning music scene, first from the other side of the lens. I was a musician kid at 7 years old playing maracas, bongos and stuff. I’m a crappy

(L-R) Alejandro Escovedo, Dagny, David Garza (below) Tina Rodriguez

photography by Todd V. Wolfson

musician who gets to play with really good people. David Garza calls me an ‘amateur photographer professional percussionist.’ I’m really goofy and bad as a percussionist and really bad-ass as a photographer.” Putting his musical ambitions to the side, Wolfson soon recognized that “when I moved here there was nobody that just photographed the creative movers and shakers. I thought, ‘I want to be the Richard Avedon or Annie Leibovitz of Austin.’ I want to be that guy.” Wolfson’s became “that guy” in Austin on the strength of a fertile imagination and an unforced, elemental manner in the studio and on location with his subjects. His influence is readily apparent as one studies his portfolio, a visual narrative of some of the most innovative artists in history. Today, Wolfson can count himself among that number. With his gear in tow, his presence at an event practically signifies its importance. He has captured the great and near great on film, but there’s still one elusive portrait. “Smell,” he confides. “So many times I’m shooting some really beautiful woman or some really cool band and I’m taking them in an alley where you might smell human feces or urine. But the photo looks really great.” When asked about his personal muses, Wolfson is loathe to identify favorites for his lens. “The average Joe wouldn’t know who the hell she is. Most of my favorite subjects—they’re the muses that I pick for myself. It’s not Willie Nelson or Alejandro, although they’re wonderful people. It’s my personal muses. That leaves an air of mystery.” Fortune’s smile dimmed on July 11, when a bicycle-riding Wolfson hit a patch of defective pavement and was thrown from his seat.

Please make a donation today to help pay Todd Wolfson’s medical bills and assist with his living expenses. Todd has given tirelessly of himself for countless charitable endeavors and our community needs him back at work.

After suffering a head injury, severe elbow damage, compound fractures in his arm, plus numerous internal injuries, Wolfson is on forced hiatus and faces months of physical therapy and astronomical medical bills. An orthopedic surgeon repaired Wolfson’s arm with 16 pins and two metal plates. “I still have one of the major bones that has a good way to heal. The prognosis is that I’ll be back to normal in around a year. In the emergency room, I was moving my fingers and thanking God. There was no neurological damage; I just had bones sticking out of my arm.” To assist the injured artist, the “T.V.W. Love Family” was created and is busy coordinating a series of benefits for Wolfson, beginning with a concert on Wednesday, September 9 at Antone’s nightclub (213 W. 5th Street). “I’ve been really humbled by the reaction. It’s given me a lot of clarity, a feeling of general love. I feel really thankful and loved,” said Wolfson.

For the latest news about Todd Wolfson’s recovery and the benefits being held in his honor, go to www.sparrowheart.net/todd Send donations to www.toddwolfson.chipin.com TODO Austin // September 2009 // todoaustinonline.com 11

In a crisp white shirt, shorts and running shoes, his beard trimmed for a muggy outdoor concert at Villa’s Music Garden, Little Joe Hernandez stood in the spotlight to receive a plaque from the Austin Tejano Music Coalition celebrating his 50 years in the recording industry. As former Senator Gonzalo Barrientos and Leonard Davila surrounded Hernandez during a break in the show, the “preeminent pioneer of Tejano music” gasped as mention was made of his longevity. Nearing 70, the Latino community widely recognizes the artist as transcendent, his innovative musical feats the very ideal of romance in his listeners’ imaginations. So on this, as on other evenings across five decades, Hernandez gave every ounce of effort to his fans long into the night. His is the quintessential Tejano communal experience. His very image is the expression of ethnic pride. Little Joe Hernandez towers above the rest because his music liberated people’s hearts during a time of social unrest. Determined to rekindle the flame of his people, Hernandez set a pure tone that echoes in every strain of contemporary Tejano entertainment. Among his many achievements was getting country, blues and rock into bed with traditional Mexican American music. To say his music is a melting pot of genres, that he broke down musical and social barriers, or that he initiated countless trends is perhaps oversimplification. In short, before there was Little Joe there was a void in Tejano culture and ages from now he will be regarded as the Rosetta Stone of Tex-Mex. This is the second of a two part interview (see www.todoaustinonline.com for the first).

TODO: What has been your involvement with grassroots politics, such as the Chicano Alliance Network? Hernandez: Going back to La Raza Unida, I guess about that time, and then even before then, when I was a kid and touring California often and hanging out with Cesar Chavez, being a farm worker myself, I understood the struggle. I fell into step with the farm workers. It was very educational for me. My awareness of political issues is involved with the oppressed people. I do whatever I can for different organizations— biggest political thing I did was with Jesse Jackson—last part of the first campaign and the second effort. I’m not a politician. Music has given me the opportunity and podium to speak to different issues that in my opinion need to be spoken about. With the farm workers, I knew and understood what the struggle was about— their marching song was one of my songs. TODO: What changes have you seen in race or ethnic relations? Is it the same for you in your business and outside? Hernandez: It’s changed and I’m so happy Obama’s in the White House. There is hope for this country. There is hope for the people. I’ve always had a multiracial band. Many times I couldn’t eat at a restaurant – even some Mexican restaurants in West Texas. We slept in parks. Couldn’t get a hotel room. I was born and raised in Temple so I understood all that. Whites only, no colored, and all that. Music has, for me, broken all those barriers. I don’t like to be treated one way on stage and another on the street. We have a long ways to go. Racism isn’t just for one color or race. Racism has been in all colors. And it’s unfortunate. I think it’s becoming better. I come from a huge family of all colors. It’s beautiful. That makes me real

12 TODO Austin // September 2009 // todoaustinonline.com

happy. Unfortunately we still have a long ways to go. Old habits and ways die hard. In school if they can mix and understand that we’re all human they’ll do better in life. You can’t grow up in a bubble and sheltered and you grow up and find out it’s not just your food and your race, the world’s full of beautiful colors and all races. TODO: What have been some of the changes for the good in Latino music? Hernandez: Each generation brings their own brand of music. Technology has changed it a lot -- been a factor in a change. Beautiful melodies with beautiful, profound lyrics will always be there. I don’t know how many rap songs we’ll remember years from now. The classic standards will be there, like Misty, Stardust. As long as people make music they’ll be there. Like paintings. So will there be beautiful songs. TODO: What are some things in Latino music you’d like to see changed? Hernandez: Latino is very diverse, very. I don’t know that I’d want to change anything. Genre, style is its own. I personally like jazz myself – it’s my first love for music. I like the old artists. But I appreciate all music. I don’t know that I’d want to change anything except the business of it – the way to promote it and distribute music. Business and corporate American radio formats are not what they used to be. They pick maybe 20 songs and play them 24/7 till the next bunch comes in. Hastings and Tower Records, record stores like that are gone. Now you only buy at Walmart and they only have the new stuff. I don’t have much airplay. People call to find out what I have that’s new. It’s changed in some areas for the better. The industry has grown and it’s so diverse. I as said, technology has changed things – never mind if the guy can sing or not.

ATMC’s Leonard Davila, Little Joe Hernandez, Senator Gonzalo Barrientos at Villa’s Music Garden

You don’t need the musicians the machines can do that. TODO: You’ve won some Grammys. What has that meant to you? Hernandez: It should mean that you don’t have to audition anymore. That’s what I was told. But that’s not the case. The first Grammy was dedicated to my little brother Jesse who really was the driving force behind Little Joe. He was an incredible talent, taught me to play guitar and he never had any lessons. He died in a car accident. He died the night before we were supposed to go to Dallas to record some of his music. I scolded him because he’d been drinking and had a fender bender the week before. It was his vision and his idea of me doing music. He was always behind the scenes. “Joe you just do music you make a name for yourself and I guarantee there will be people in line who want to play with you.” In 1962 Jesse convinced me to use a black drummer – never again did I look at color or language. The other two Grammys are important and welcome as well. But I didn’t know what those awards were for at first.

Little Joe live at Villa’s

Badillo Bringing the Spotlight to the East Side By Tyler Guthrie

“I fell in love with the idea of creating scenes inspired by music,” said Badillo. “Creating a movie to a soundtrack was my vision.”

The diamond in the rough that is the East End 11th Street District is a shining example of New Austin with all its trendy restaurants, new music venues, boutiques, retail shops and cultural events. What few could have predicted was that the neighborhood would have spawned the hottest Austin promoter going in Brandon Ramiro Badillo.

his creative capital. Keeping to the same strategies once designed for a life in cinema he switched out screenwriting for a more action-packed career. Being a natural at gathering crowds and possessing a knack for designing parties, he decided to create his own promotion company, Bemba Entertainment.

Badillo, an enterprising Austin local who graduated from the University of Texas with a degree in Radio/Television/Film with a focus on screenwriting, started out as an eager-toplease film industry novice before he found himself a serious player in the sometimes cut-throat business of concert promotions.

Over the past six months, Badillo has thrived on his ability to gain and maintain a close relationship with the East Austin community; predominately, the once-quiet, now popping East End 11th Street District.

Badillo, however, soon lost interest in the film business but still wanted to utilize

“With so much focus on live music on west of IH-35, it only made sense for me to continue my events over on the East Side,” explained Badillo. “It has proven to be a canvas on which

I can create the events that I want to do, and bring up the live music scene here as well.” Badillo was welcomed by longtime community promoters who’ve helped the landmark Victory Grill operating, and Harold McMillan, founder of Diverse Arts Organization became a fast supporter. Together, McMillan and Badillo have created quality programming for the East End 11th Street District. “I now hold a residency at The Victory Grill,” said Badillo. Every first Saturday of the month he presents “Hard Proof Afrobeat” with artists like Hard Proof Afrobeat and DJ Aquaman. Every second and fourth Thursdays, Badillo tackles the “Souled Out” series. Badillo is perhaps most proud of establishing an East

Side World Music Concert Series called “Bemba Beat” which takes place every second and fourth Saturday. With such a full menu, the young promoter has no doubt given the East End 11th Street District exactly what was needed at this critical time in its evolution—an tireless optimist of an advocate. “The East Side community is where my heart is,” he states, “and I will continue to produce events over there as long as the community will let me.” Keep up with Bemba Entertainment by becoming a fan on Facebook or by going to the website www. bembaentertainment.com.

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Truth & Beauty By Deborah Alys Carter

Q: “Dear Deborah, I’m applying for a job and I get bats in my stomach during the interview process when asked the question, ‘What salary do you think you deserve?’ How to answer?”~ Salary Stumped A: Dear SS, Warren Buffet once said, “Price is what you pay for something; value is what you get.” Most of the time, we don’t value ourselves highly enough. Most of the time, we have no idea what someone would pay for us. If someone wants you to work for them, it means a couple of things: That employer needs you to do something he/she can’t do, or doesn’t want to do, or doesn’t have time to do. All companies are tightening up, cracking down, making one employee do the work of three, starting over with a new employee when someone leaves. Believe me, it’s worth paying a little more for a good employee, and most employers know that. They don’t want you to know it, though. They want to get the best employee for the least money. How good an employee will you be? Do your research into that company, find out what they need, how you can provide that, and how much they paid the last person in that position. Then take a deep breath, straighten up in your chair, look them in the eye, and ask for more. Don’t be a coward. Write Deborah at Contact@todoaustinpress.com

Chronicles of Undercover Mexican Girl

Volume 1.2

By Alexandra M. Landeros

Welcome to my adventures. I am of Mexican ancestry, but am often confused for a person of another heritage. By way of being ethnically undercover, I have a knack for finding other undercover people, places, and things. Here at the close of vacation season, I’ll share with you some observations from my travels overseas. My first trip to Europe was in the spring of 2005 with a friend, Regina. I had always imagined my first such trip to Spain or Greece, but Rome was close enough. We rented a flat in the Flaminio neighborhood near the Spanish Steps on a one-week intimate affair with the Eternal City and a one-night stand with Florence. While I only got a glimpse of the Colosseum, never making it into the Roman Forum, I spent an afternoon traipsing the outskirts of Rome in La Garbatella, a working-class neighborhood with winding streets, sweeping staircase entries, courtyard gardens, and had a peek at stockings and handkerchiefs hanging in the breeze out a window. I half expected to see a young woman in a sailor-top dress with finger-waved hair riding down the street on a three-speed bicycle to meet her soldier at the cinema. I encountered two elderly women walking home from the corner market who were more than happy to chat although we didn’t understand one another. On another afternoon, I rambled—mapless and alone—the cobblestoned labyrinth roads of the Renaissance era districts. Wearing a brand new, bright red Pashmina scarf I bought from a street vendor and relishing a cup of gelato, I stumbled upon the Pantheon. As I turned the corner, without any warning from my travel book, there it stood in front of me in all its majesty. Later that day, in search of a

music school I had read about, I met an expatriate from Indiana who played in a traditional jazz band in the Caffe Latino by Monte Testaccio, a hill made of pottery fragments coming entirely from the jars used to transport grains and liquids into Ancient Rome. On my way back to the Flaminio, I stopped anywhere that caught my eye, for a glass of wine here, or a cup of espresso there, which meant I missed the last train on Line A. After wandering lost for four hours up and down the Tiber, into and out of any old square or fountain plaza that seemed to lead back to the flat, I called the trombonist woman, Regina, who gave me instructions on how to find her. We drank wine, smoked cigarettes, and ate the best Italian food somewhere in Trastevere, the oldest and last surviving intact quarter in Rome. I could have planned out more of my trip and seen more historic landmarks, or remembered more places that I could recommend. I can’t tell you where I stopped for coffee this one night, but I can tell you that as I sat to write in my journal on the sidewalk café in the middle of seemingly nowhere Rome, I could see the flickering yellow street lamps illuminating crumbled remnants of non-descript ruins, I could smell fresh bread being baked down the street, and I could hear conversations weaving between Italian and Hebrew. I had landed somewhere in another time and another place, never to be found again except by chance. For more Chronicles of Undercover Mexican Girl, see todoaustinonline.com