SOMA magazine. by toma_oma

THE OBSESSION ISSUE

1 1>

THE LEGACY OF EILEEN FISHER DAMIEN RICE: FADED FANTASY VICTORIA BECKHAM / BOUTIQUE Volume 28.6

Nov / Dec ’14

USA $3.50

25274 73916

NIGEL BARKER: MY OBSESSION LITTLE DRAGON: BREATHING FIRE MCBRIDE SISTERS / TRUVÉE Canada $4.50

England £3.00

Japan ¥1000

AVA I L A B L E A T L I T T L E L I F F N E R . C O M & B A R N E Y S N E W Y O R K 3

The internationally acclaimed magazine of culture, fashion and the arts Publisher & Editor-in-Chief A. Ghanbarian Creative Director Timothy Petersen Art Director Contributer Designer Managing Editor

Alberto J. Carvajal Toma Oma Kate Zaliznock

Senior Fashion Editor

Keanan Duffty

Senior Fashion Editor

Jennifer Richardson

European Style Editor

Sissi Johnson

Contributing Copy Editor

Brett Leader

Contributing Copy Editor

Talia Page

Contributing Music Editor Director of Social Media

William Lankford Savannah Blum

Contributing Writers Karena Akhavein, Zee Chang, Caitlin Clarke, Jonathan Cheung, Tess Collins, Keanan Duffty, J. Poet, Morgan K. Stern, Brett Leader, Emilie Trice, Jennifer Richardson, Kate Zaliznock, Tonislava Docheva, Sissi Johnson, Debra Winter, Katia Ganfield, Joa Bohorquez, William Lankford Contributing Photographers Nigel Barker, Martin Vallin, Olivia Beasley Contributing Stylists Mark Anthony Bradley, M O S E S™ Subscription Inquiries Only Send check or money order payable in USD for the exact amount to: SOMA Subscriptions, 649 Main Street, Suite 111, Martinez, California 94553, USA US Rates are $24 per year. Canada $75 USD. Europe $100 USD. Elsewhere $100 USD. Or send PayPal to argt@somamagazine.com Or in the U.S. call 800 833 0159 International/National Distribution Hudson News, Lords International, The News Group, Whole Foods One Source, SOMA Distribution Advertising/Marketing Director Tel 415 777 4585 x14

Ali Tabriz Fax 415 777 2126 Email argt@somamagazine.com Advertising Representative

Tel 415 777 4585 x11

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Editorial Tel 415 777 4585 Editorial Fax 415 777 2126 General Email info@somamagazine.com Editorial Email editorial@somamagazine.com Website www.somamagazine.com SOMA Magazine Office 888 O’Farrell Street, Suite 103, San Francisco, California 94109, USA Submissions For writer guidelines, send a self-addressed stamped envelope to our Editorial Office. SOMA Magazine assumes no responsibility for unsolicited material. The opinions expressed within are the responsibility of our contributors and do not necessarily reflect those of SOMA Magazine. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. All material Copyright 2006, SOMA Magazine, Inc. SOMA (ISSN 0896-5005) is published bi-monthly by SOMA Magazine, Inc. at 888 O’Farrell Street, Suite 103, San Francisco, California 94109, USA Periodicals Postage Paid at San Francisco, California and at additional mailing offices.

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Contents

features

fashion

The Legacy of Eileen Fisher

McBride Sisters: Amazing Journey

Refine/Revolt Photography by Martin Vallin

Mudlark Photography by Olivia Beasley

My Obsession Photography by Nigel Barker

white noise

Bibliobicicleta

style

Chic Beats

street pulse

San Francisco

about place

Victoria Beckham’s Flagship Store

of fashion

14 16

Rahul Mishra Dahae Kim

art & Design

20 22

Serra Victoria Bothwell Fels Aurora Robson

hanD signals

Christopher Makos

music

74 76

Little Dragon Damien Rice

urbanite

last worD

future stars

So what the hell does SOMA mean anyway?

Originally an ancient Indo-Persian word, representing an entity that transforms those who embrace it into ecstatic or transcendental realms. Soma eventually became a philosophical concept representative of ritual offerings, the contents of the material world, or the ‘life-force.’ The Greeks and the Romans used it to refer to the body. And of course Aldous Huxley described it as a holiday from the ordinary. We simply think of it as a magazine.

White Noise

Bibliobicicleta TEXT by brETT LEadEr phoTography by mEgaN moura

On most days, twenty-eight-year-old Alicia Tapia works as a private school librarian in the Tenderloin neighborhood of San Francisco, constantly surrounded by books and the young minds in which she instills a love for reading. Tapia is also the proud creator of Bibliobicicleta, a mobile bicycle library that hands out free books to people of all ages. The Bibliobicicleta motto? “To promote a love of learning and literacy: page by page, book by book, pedal by pedal.” Inspired in part by the Little Free Library movement, Bibliobicicleta is a completely independent, donation-based library. Tapia first began toying with the idea in 2010 while studying to become a librarian at the University of Hawaii. “Someone asked me, ‘How do you say librarian in Spanish?’ The word is bibliotecario. I told him, and he was like, ‘What? Bibliotaqueria?’ So for the longest time I had this silly idea to start a taco truck that’s also a library, so people can read and eat tacos. Then I thought if people are eating tacos and reading, they’re going to fall asleep.” It wasn’t until the Hawaii native moved to San Francisco and made friends with another bike-loving librarian that the idea for Bibliobicicleta came to fruition: “We kind of joked about it like, ‘Wouldn’t it be really funny if we had a library on the 10

back of our bikes?’” The idea would continue to resurface for weeks until one day Tapia decided enough was enough. “I was so tired of talking about it and decided to just do it. Then I put a Kickstarter up.” Her Kickstarter project became fully funded in December 2013, raising $2,236 over its month-long course—exceeding her original goal of $650 in less than a week. With the help of over 100 backers, what was once an inside joke had become a fully supported project. The money was raised in order to create a customized bookshelf-trailer, one that could easily be attached to Tapia’s day-to-day commuter bicycle. The trailer was quickly found through Bikes at Work, a bicycle cargo trailer manufacturer out of Iowa. Constructing the wooden bookshelf for the trailer, however, proved to be a more challenging task. After the original builder backed out of the project, Tapia decided to place an ad on TaskRabbit. There she would meet Jasper Montgomery. “We talked about the vision of it and he really improved it,” Tapia explains. His design allowed for airflow to pass through the bookshelves, greatly increasing mobility—especially on windy bike rides. Tapia, who also holds her master’s degree in Library and

Information Science from the University of Washington, can often be seen parked around the Panhandle, in addition to San Francisco’s various Sunday Streets events. “Free books!” she proclaims to fellow bike riders, joggers, and families who pass by—some will stop and take a book; some drop books off. The shelves hold a variety of fiction and non-fiction for both children and adults. The titles are constantly changing as books exchange hands, taken off of the shelves as often as they are replaced. The response for Bibliobicicleta has been overwhelmingly positive over the course of its first year. “Kids are my weak spot, obviously. It’s why I teach,” says Tapia. “The first time I took it out, this little girl walked by and said, ‘That is the prettiest bookshelf I’ve ever seen.’ That made it all worthwhile. By seeing this crazy bookshelf, that kid is going to think that reading is something that’s important—reading is something cool.” Tapia continues to find inspiration for Bibliobicicleta from other unique free libraries around the world. While on her honeymoon in Buenos Aires, Argentina, Tapia had a chance encounter with one of her favorite mobile libraries: a book-covered tank known as Weapons of Mass Instruction. She describes

the moment as “nothing short of magic.” Her most notable inspiration is the Biblioburro, a Columbian traveling library that donates its books on the backs of two donkeys. “This guy takes his two burros, Alfa and Beto, to remote villages where they don’t have access to books,” she explains. “That’s what inspires me: when you take books to the people who need them the most.” Tapia plans to eventually take Bibliobicicleta on a long-distance ride south through Mexico, as part of a similar effort to bring books to areas with less access. Although bookmobiles are nothing new (the concept has been around for over 150 years), innovative mobile libraries like Bibliobicicleta are perhaps more important now than ever before. Tapia describes her take on the impact of modern technology on the written word: “Our parents kind of let us put the book down,” she explains. “I think now we’re coming back around. I appreciate all of the information we can get from the Internet, but nothing takes the place of a good book. It’s not you and all of these other things that can distract you. It’s just you and the book.” For more information visit www.bibliobicicleta.com 11

EQ U I N OX M A

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D E M E D O I T.

Future Stars of Fashion

Rahul Mishra text By SiSSi JohnSon

2014 will be a year to remember for Rahul Mishra. Recently, the Indian-born designer received the coveted International Woolmark Prize while swimmingly making his mark onto the global fashion scene. On the eve of his Paris Fashion Week debut show, I met the very discreet Istituto Marangoni graduate at the residence of the Ambassador of India in France. Also there was Didier Grumbach, former Chairman of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. Grumbach first noticed Mishra’s exquisite designs in Delhi during India Fashion Week years ago. It was then that the Malhausi native received the invitation to showcase in the world’s fashion capital. Beneath the elegant envelope read Rumi’s quote, “Love calls—everywhere and always. We’re sky bound. Are you coming?” The fashion world responded with a definite yes. Palais de Tokyo was the following day—steps away from the Eiffel tower and minutes from making history on the last day of Paris Fashion Week, the ambient music came on, and Rahul Mishra finally unveiled his stunning spring/summer 2015 silhouettes of his eponymous line. The full-to-capacity room was in complete awe before models clothed with so much delicacy and striking sophistication: organza tops, mandarin collar gowns, kimono coats and sheer high-waisted overlaid skirts. The use of Merino wool for many 14

of the pieces gives a touch of modernity to classic designs with traditional embroidery. “The Ferryman’s Tale” collection is inspired by traditional Japanese artworks and three-century-old Chintz textiles. Mishra draws on his signature palette of ivory, blacks, yellows and grays with delicate-yet-intricate graphic and floral patterns in hand embroidery influenced by his homeland and Far East Asia. “I am like a storyteller in a little boat who travels to different places” said Mishra. His Paris debut was an ode to femininity and a celebration of humanity. From sourcing materials to producing locally, Mishra’s flourishing brand is built on a sustainable design ethos aiming to preserve and promote India’s traditional craftsmanship and artisans. The designer says, “In the small villages of India I have met craftspeople and makers and now I have sailed to Paris to tell their stories in a new light.” The show ends and I can barely make it backstage to congratulate the designer. If you ever doubted the existence of karma before, Mishra brilliantly proves that when you give, you receive. We at SOMA eagerly await his return next season; in the meantime, his capsule collection is now available at luxury stores across the globe including SAKS Fifth Avenue, Colette Paris and Harvey Nichols, London.

Future Stars of Fashion

Dahae Kim’s Dark Alchemy TEXT by EmilliE TricE phoTography by WarrEN DiFraNco

Dahae Kim, the visionary behind burgeoning label WHICHKIM, derives inspiration for her acclaimed conceptual menswear designs from her enduring dark obsessions. Industrial architecture, the recesses of the human psyche, and a self-proclaimed alchemic philosophy inform her abstract, sculptural aesthetic. “I take dirty, dangerous, unhappy, and dark subjects as inspirations,” explains Kim, “and then interpret and design them into beautiful things.” Born in South Korea, Kim has cultivated her creative ambition with a singular focus since her higher education commenced at the Academy of Art University with a portfolio scholarship from the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). In 2009 she received her BFA in Menswear Fashion Design, and in 2011 she won the San Francisco Fashion award for Emerging Mensware Designer of the Year. Currently, Kim is one of five “Designers in Residence” at the Fashion Incubator San Francisco (FISF) at Macy’s Union Square. Kim’s designs are exquisite paradoxes: tailored yet deconstructed works of wearable sculpture. Strong fabrics—wool, cottons and leather—and clean lines provide a mostly monochromatic canvas for her more avant-garde leanings, including asymmetrical cuts that fall in deliberate, meticulous angles. Kim’s ingrained perfectionism permeates WHICHKIM, an ironic facet of the designer’s artistry considering her conviction 16

that “the most beautiful moment of life is when you breakdown mentally. That’s when you let your guard on yourself and feel all the emotions flowing in, and also that is when the most amount of creativity kicks in.” While in the San Francisco Fashion Incubator, Kim will design a 2015 spring and fall collection under professional mentorship provided by Macy’s, specifically Jeanne Allen and Marc Grant (award-winning designers of the Jeanne Marc label). The incubator offers selected designers fully equipped studio workshops on Macy’s seventh floor at highly reduced rents, in order to bolster their fledgling businesses. Still, Kim’s professional acumen is already highly evolved, an uncommon attribute for such a fresh, emerging and avant-garde talent. Having been raised in a military family, Kim’s background contextualizes her design sensibilities. Obsessive craftsmanship is framed by impeccably polished tailoring, recalling the crisp uniforms of army generals and cadets. In order to counterbalance the hard-edged minimal geometry of her more structured pieces, Kim adds fluid drapery, patterned shapes and bold accents of color. Her resulting, balanced compositions are intended for the contemporary urban man, whose fashion sense and ambition is rivaled only by his self-confidence—much like the designer herself.

Street Pulse

Street Pulse: San Francisco text & PhotograPhy by anna-Lena LyStad

1. What is your obsession? 2. What is your favorite sin? 3. Whats your guilty pleasure? 4. Which celebrity is most self obsessed? 5. What’s your favorite electronic device?

nicol

devin

Marine

1. Fashion 2. Red Wine 3. Star Wars

1. Fur…it’s bad 2. Sex 3. Sweets

1. Cooking and exploring 2. Gluttony

4. Kylie Jenner 5. MacBook Pro

4. Kim Kardashian 5. iPhone

3. Taylor Swift’s “Shake it off” 4. Camera

toni

erica

Mark

1. Fashion 2. Red Wine 3. Star Wars

1. Traveling 2. Gluttony 3. Watching TV

1. Japanese culture 2. Alcohol 3. Ice cream

4. Kylie Jenner 5. MacBook Pro

4. Kim Kardashian 5. Phone

4. Kanye West 5. iPhone

Street Pulse.indd 18

11/24/14 1:29 PM

Joshua 1. Chocolate 2. Gluttony 3. Whiskey on the rocks and salted popcorn 4. Kanye West 5. MacBook Air

Art & Design

The Lath Hunter

Serra Victoria Bothwell Fels TexT by DebrA WinTer PhoTogrAPhy by LArsen FArreLL

Meet Serra Victoria Bothwell Fels, a Tennessee-raised, AustralianAmerican artist based in Brooklyn. Driven by a desire for sustainability and personal economics, Bothwell Fels has been using reclaimed wood to create large-scale installations inspired by the geometry of Sierpinski triangles. Her choice of medium is lath—a material found inside plaster walls—recovered from construction zones. Rather than let the wood go to waste, Bothwell Fels rescues it from dumpsters, creating new from the discarded. She attaches these fractal sets to each other and then affixes them to the existing walls around her, building up, spreading out, layer upon layer. “I do a lot of stacking in my work,” explains Bothwell Fels. “I think a lot about the multi-layers that happen in an environment and that also happen psychologically.” Her approach is perhaps informed by her time at Stanford

where she double majored in Sociology and Political Science. Bothwell Fels refers to the family system theory, a branch of psychology suggesting that individuals can be understood only in context with their ancestral family unit. This layering effect is what inspires her art. When asked about what informs and inspires her process, Bothwell Fels says: “Every installation I have done has led to the next one raising questions that I want to attempt to answer with the next piece.” The repetition in her work is hypnotic, while at the same time the viewer is left to dismantle a linear time paradox of being nostalgic and wholly futuristic—an element ever evident in Bothwell Fels installations. Her work has been shown at Pioneer Works, The Clocktower Gallery, Scope, and the Palais de Tokyo in Paris. For more information please visit www.svbf.info.

the lath hunter.indd 20

11/24/14 2:48 PM

Art & Design

The Ethereal World of Aurora Robson TEXT by DEbrA WinTEr phoTogrAphy by nASh bAKEr

For artist Aurora Robson, art is a dialogue. While many are attracted to her work simply for its beauty and grace, a much deeper conversation is taking place. Fused in every piece, shape, and sculptural creation is the message of the devastating impact our collective plastic consumption is reaping on the environment. Robson creates sculptures, installations, and collages by intercepting the waste stream and collecting trash plastic debris from creeks, streets, and urban centers. “My work is largely about transforming something negative into something positive,” explains Robson. “One of the first things we observe about trash is that it is material that people don’t care about or see value in, so I take the time to care about it in every aspect. I try to reveal its hidden potential.” Robson’s gift for transforming trash into art has created an impressive following. She’s has been commissioned to created artworks for a vast range of companies, such as the Four Seasons Hotel, Bank of America, and The Franklin Park Conservatory & Botanical Gardens, often using the companies’ own trash to make the works that will hang in their space. Her most recent 22

large-scale installation, Plant Perception, at Noble Energy is 65 feet long and constructed from 6,000 reclaimed PET bottles. “I was thinking about how plants grow in the direction that is most suitable to them—where the minerals and soil conditions are optimal,” says Robson. “I try to reference how delicate, magnificent, and diverse life on earth is in the work and conjure up situations that give people an opportunity to reflect on that and on our own vulnerability as a species. I try to create work that really honors nature.” Plant Perception pours from the ceiling of a conference room, floating overhead and around. It is both otherworldly and delicate. At a quick glance, it gives the illusion of ever-stretching branches, but a closer look reveals that it is roots of a tree. It is a perfect placement to have these roots ribboning the corporate conference table, suggesting immediate environmental awareness as well as a raised hierarchy—a reminder that nature is a key consideration of the decision makers. In a sense, Robson take the excess waste plastic and returns it to nature. Robson has dedicated her life’s work to this cause. Along with

founding Project Vortex, a website that features artists, designers, and architects around the world who are actively intercepting the waste stream as a part of their practices, Robson has also designed a college course called “Sculpture and Intercepting the Waste Stream.” The course would, as Robson explains, “restrict the flow of debris to our oceans and create generations of highly skilled creative people who are aware and dedicated to being better stewards of our planet.” Robson articulates the importance of why plastic is an issue: “So many people think that all they have to do is put plastic in the recycling and the issues surrounding our waste management will work themselves out and that they are doing all they can, but this is a misconception. We need to reduce our plastic footprints in order to shut off the faucet of plastic waste that is entering our oceans. Roughly 80% of plastic ocean debris comes from our land, our rivers, our shores, and our sewer drains. Water is one of our most valuable shared resources. Plastic contains toxins, many of which are carcinogenic or associated with all sorts of health issues. Plastic enters our waterways and is consumed by

birds and fish. Thus, it is entering the food chain. The biodiversity on earth has been drastically reduced over the past two decades. We are essentially slowly poisoning ourselves with our careless handling of this material. People need to recognize the power they have as individual consumers and make choices that are kinder to themselves, each other, and the planet.” The dialogue Robson’s work creates is not easy for some. It requires self-awareness and a conscious effort to change habits of convenience and excess. As Robson says, “Plastic has archival integrity built into it.” This means it is not leaving the earth anytime soon, and we can leave the plastic as trash, poisoning our water stream, or reshape it. Robson reminds us that the choice is ours. Working through the aesthetic transformation of trash into beautiful art, Robson reflects, “My work has made me a better person; I work from a place of gratitude. My work is pretty much trash plus a lot of love.”

About Place

Victoria Beckham’s First Flagship Store By toniSLAVA DoCheVA

Dover Street in Mayfair, London is known for its Georgian architecture dating back to the 1700s, and has been a hub for creative individuals like Charles Dickens and John Ruskin. Now it is home to a new crowd of fashion design houses like Saint Laurent, McQ by Alexander McQueen, and the Dover Street Market—right across from it is the newest addition to this iconic street, Victoria Beckham. The 1,800-square-foot store opened this past September and was designed by Farshid Moussavi. This London-based, multiaward winning architect designed the Museum of Contemporary Art in Cleveland as well as other retail complexes, however this was her first commission for a flagship store. Beckham chose her specifically because she loves “working with strong women,” and because she did not want the store to resemble any other retail space. Nestled between fine art galleries and acclaimed restaurants, the Victoria Beckham store’s simplistic three-story façade is modernly distinguishable, yet doesn’t clash with the Georgian style architecture throughout the street. A simple floor-toceiling glass window gives customers a look into the current collection on the inside. Above, the Victoria Beckham logo and the address No. 36 are etched in black. On the left is the store entrance with a concrete automatic sliding door that allows for an easy, no-fuss entrance. Inside, any hint of Georgian architecture is replaced by modern geometry, and the depth is astonishingly larger compared to what we see from the outside. The ceiling of the ground floor is made of mirrored stainless steel, creating an optical doubling which makes the space even grander. Clothing is displayed on metal chains that hang from the ceilings and give the customers a sense of exploration. 24

The stunningly-wide staircase leads customers to the first floor, where they can view a projection of the current season’s fashion show, filmed by Beckham herself using a GoPro. The most striking architectural element in the design, however, is the sense of connectivity created by the open-space layout between the first and second floors. There is a rectilinear feel through the store with diagonal floor cut-outs, a triangle-grid ceiling and metal chains that are constantly guiding the eye towards the clothes on display. Beckham was intimately involved in the creation of the interior, and the diamond motif in the ceiling of the first floor was a direct inspiration from patterned sweaters in her fall 2014 collection. This metal latticework was probably one of the most challenging parts of the store, taking nine weeks and seven masons to finish it. Although concrete and metal are the main materials used to create the sleek feel, Beckham also wanted to infuse a more homey element to the store by using furniture made by a single piece of walnut, as well as a dark green glass wall by the fitting rooms. These natural earth colors give the interior a warmer feel contrasting with the different tones of cool gray and white throughout the space. The chic feel of the interior is sourced from a combination of Moussavi’s background in designing modern-art museums in addition to the aesthetic of the Victoria Beckham brand; a sophisticated and refined aura creates a harmony within the space. The two women worked together to translate the brand and elevate the space that will curate the five different Victoria Beckham collections. This beautifully designed interior seamlessly works with the clothes to compliment the style—in essence, the result is art within art.

Hand Signals

Christopher Makos TexT By KaTe ZaliZnocK PHoTograPHy By cHriSToPHer MaKoS

When it comes to the history of art, there’s a special place for the man who taught Andy Warhol how to take a photograph. Christopher Makos, Warhol’s longtime confidant and collaborator, also studied under the legendary Man Ray—and as such has key insight into the word of modern photography and its artistic impact. Born in Lowell, Massachusetts, Makos was transplanted around the U.S. (in addition to studying architecture in Paris) before settling into his beloved West Village apartment in New York City, where he’s remained for over 40 years. Icons like Keith Haring, Cindy Sherman, Roy Lichtenstein, Calvin Klein, Tennessee Williams and innumerable others have trekked up the six flights of stairs that lead to his doorstep, behind which lie walls full of jawdropping imagery. Makos was kind enough to let SOMA inquire about the history behind this incredible artist and his work. Tell us about the old days. What was it like for you when you first started your career, and who were the key figures who helped shape your professional path? Well, I really don’t refer to the “old days.” I would say I had an education period in my life, and that period was what I would call the Golden Age of New York (during the 70s-80s). It was a time when the arts flourished because New York City was an affordable, experimental lab for the arts. You could come here, be from anywhere, and discover yourself, and during that self-discovery learn about others and experiment with whatever your craft was. A writer, a painter, a poet, a singer, a photographer—we all could grow here. Some of the key figures in my career would be Man Ray, Warhol, Tennessee Willams, my mother and my father. Man Ray made me understand about how 26

to be intuitive with my work, and Andy taught me about the art of business, and the business of art. There must be a wealth of intriguing stories behind your substantial work—what would you say was the craziest moment you’ve had while photographing? I would say one of the most interesting photo shoots would have to be photographing Elizabeth Taylor. She was notoriously late, and I was a bit annoyed by that, but when I realized that one had to be the director, the boss, she stepped right in line, and was such a great subject. Malcolm Forbes and Elizabeth were great friends, and Malcolm commissioned me to do a portrait for her. She wore a Zandra Rhodes dress and looked beautiful. Is there anyone you haven’t worked with who you would consider a dream collaboration? I think it would be great to photograph Jennifer Lawrence. She is one of those exceptional actresses who is not only stunning, but still seems to possess a wonder about her craft. Artists like her are great to collaborate with. What are you gearing up for in 2015? What are you most excited for? I have just published my black-and-white monograph, EVERYTHING, and am finishing up a world tour with the fashion house Ports 1961, and after designing the 50th anniversary label for Kiehl’s facial astrigent, will be doing portraits for Kiehl’s Earth Day event. I will also start work on my next book of black-andwhite polaroids. I just recently discovered by chance my Makos poloroid book done in 2009 is selling on Amazon for $11,000.

Has a need for physical security. He surrounds himHis family is very hard on him. They trou-

self with his things. Things he has found beautiful or

bled him – both as a small child and fre-

useful or comforting. This is a source of strength for

quently through adult life. Even after his

him, provided it doesn’t get out of hand and tip over

parents are gone, what they would have

into hoarding instead of enjoying.

said echoes in his mind and troubles him.

He is very intelligent, with a strong intuitive side. His choice is to use this intuitive side in communications.

He is able to thrive in places where he does not speak the language, because he can use his intuition and empathy to communicate beyond words and to form strong friendships across From his family he has obtained a strong

language barriers.

temper. He doesn’t hold grudges, but in the moment, when he is angry, it is best to duck and cover. His family can set his temper off more than anybody else. Always best to stay out of the way if he has been on the phone with his mother!

Someone very important came into his life and protected him from emotional destruction between ages 11-15. Someone or something functioned as a guardian angel during those years, preserving his sanity.

His best romances will be with those who are willing to follow him, even when he isn’t going anywhere.

There are periods of his life where he drives, both career-wise and financially, but he never hits a rock bottom when drifting, because he has strong protection in this

Financially, there is a strong probability of an inheritance. However it’s unlikely

lifetime – there are many signs of

to happen until he doesn’t actually need

His character is loving, sensuous and

it anymore because he has achieved his

enthusiastic. He tries to conceal his

own success and stability.

sensuous intensity and open-hearted-

protection on this palm.

ness, having been taught that he should contain it. Fortunately, that doesn’t work and his enthusiasm comes through anyway.

His empathy allows him to be civilized with others. This is not someone who will wake you up in the middle of the night blaring his music.

ipose/i-pose

My Obsession PhotograPhy Nigel styling

Barker MOSESâ&#x201E;˘

Jennifer Zuccarini, Founder of Fleur Du Mal Obsession: Desire, music and lingerie Jennifer (seated) wears Fleur du Mal Cape La Perla tights Tania Spinelli heels Cartier Juste Un Clou bracelet and Cartier Love bracelet Eve wears Fleur du Mal dress and lingerie Zana Bayne choker Tania Spinelli heels

Conor Dwyer, Professional Athlete and Olympic Swimmer Obsession: Top step of the Olympic podium Moncler jacket Stampd hoodie Rolex watch Michael Kors sweatpants APC duffle bag

Misty Copeland, Soloist for the American Ballet Theatre Obsession: Mentoring the next generation of dancers Maison Kitsune jacket Married to the Mob top and leggings Cast of Vices bracelets DKNY shoes

Michelle Ochs and Carly Cushnie, Co Founders and Designers of Cushnie Et Ochs Obsessions: Skin, heels and black From left to right: Michelle wears Cushnie et Ochs dress Finn ring Christian Louboutin heels Taejahn wears Cutler & Gross glasses Vera Wang tux, tie and shirt John Varvatos pocket square Uniform Wares watch Common Projects shoes Carly wears Cushnie et Ochs dress Christian Louboutin heels All jewelry her own

Rain Dove, Androgynous fashion model Obsession: Human Nature Phillip Lim coat, pants and shirt Uniform Wares watch The Great Frog ring

Tara Stiles , Founder and CEO of Strala Yoga Obsessions: The concept of ease, simplicity and calm UNIF top Clover Canyon top wrapped in hand Degen pants Unearthen necklace Rainbow sandals

Kirk Myers, Celebrity Trainer and CEO of The Dog Pound Obsession: Transforming other peoplesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; lives through fitness and training Own t-shirt, jeans and bracelets Dr. Martenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Jacket draped on armrest

Estelle, Grammy award winning musician Obsessions: Cooking and music Versus Versace dress Cartier Panthere earrings and ring Christian Louboutin heels

Jonny Lee Miller, Actor Obsession: Running Fred Perry jacket and shirt Levi’s Vintage Clothing jeans Dr. Marten’s shoes

Rob Garcia, Designer and Creator of En Noir Obsession: Black, tattoos and leather En Noir cardigan and denim Saint Laurent by Hedl Slimane sunglasses, shirt and boots Stojanka Bulic at Next Artists for Dior, and Satsuki Soma using Kevyn Aucoin Hair by Cameron Rains for Cutler/Redken, and Yohey Nakatsuka using â&#x20AC;&#x153;Bumble & bumble.â&#x20AC;? Stylist Asst: Valentine Malone III and Mitchel Brumsted. Makeup Assst: Sophie Haig. Manicurist: Arlene Hinckson. Model in Cushnie Et Ochs photo: Taejahn at ReQuest. Model in Fleur Du Mal photo: Eve Liu at Major Model.

Time for life – with two limited edition timepieces in support of Doctors Without Borders/ Médecins Sans Frontières. $100 per watch will go to the Nobel Peace Prize winning organization. And yet, these handcrafted mechanical watches with the red 12 cost the same as the classic Tangente models from NOMOS Glashütte. Help now, wear forever. NOMOS retailers in the USA helping to help include Brinkers, Govberg, Jack Ryan, Timeless, Tourneau, and Wempe. Find these and other NOMOS retailers at www.nomos-watches.com, or order online at www.nomos-store.com.

Feature

Phenomenal Woman The Legacy of Eileen Fisher TEXT by DEbra WiNTEr phoTography by larSEN FarrEll

Eileen Fisher didn’t set out to be a fashion designer. In fact, she was merely attempting to make her own clothing decisions easier when she invested $350 of savings to create her first samples. However, with an interior and graphic design background combined with a zest for understated elegance, Fisher was laying the foundations of an extraordinary fashion brand. Her premise: simplicity, sustainability and great design. In a little over thirty years Fisher has created an innovative company that spans over fifty-six stores in three countries. Her success can be attributed to paying attention to what women want and need—and this doesn’t stop with closets. Fisher is committed to social impact through improving the lives of women through social initiatives and entrepreneurship. Along with issues that affect woman and girls, Fisher created a “Social Consciousness Department” tackling tough issues including human rights, sustainability and environmental responsibility. Fisher kindly took some time out her busy schedule to answer a few questions from SOMA: How would you describe your design philosophy? In 1984, I started EILEEN FISHER for a very personal reason: I was having trouble getting dressed. In my mind I kept seeing these simple shapes for clothes that were in beautiful colors, great fabrics and had certain shapes and proportions that worked well together. This was my ‘aha’ moment: a system of dressing that allowed women to relax into themselves. Simplicity is at the core of the design idea I planted as a seed all those years ago—a 40

collective of simple shapes that work together in many ways. The intention is to “solve her problem” and give women the pieces to put themselves together easily and joyfully so they can focus on life. We believe that good design is a result of paying attention to what women want and need, and how clothes function and feel. Women long to experience the magic that happens when you put on garment that has been pared to its essence. It comes alive on your body, and you discover a certain freedom and confidence. I want EILEEN FISHER to be known for clothes you don’t have to overthink and that feel amazing on every time you reach for them. Tell us about the Fisher Project in terms of how it differs from the Eileen Fisher brands and the goals for its expansion. The Fisher Project is a capsule collection that builds on the design principles the company was founded on. The collection features more edgier, bolder pieces with exaggerated fits and silhouettes that retain the brand’s philosophy of ease and simplicity. We recently opened The Fisher Project store in Los Angeles on Robertson Blvd. Our hope is that this new concept store provides a continually evolving, dynamic space for customers to feel inspired in. At what point did you realize the need for a Social Conciousness Department? What are some of the areas

and practices as a company that had to be changed in order to be more sustainable? Becoming more mindful about clothing means looking at every fiber and every seed and every dye and seeing how to make it better. We want to make sustainability our way of life; we want it to be universal. Our Social Consciousness team works tirelessly to ensure our partners are fully vetted, and working in tandem with our core beliefs. Our goal is simple: design without negative impacts right from the start. We want to become a fully sustainable company by the year 2020. Sustainability starts with design. When we select fabrics and yarns, we are making choices about better farming practices, greener dyes and innovative production. We work to create products designed to last and easy to care for. I often describe our work as “business as a movement.” In addition to being profitable, we always ask ourselves, “How can we help make a positive change in the world?” From the environment to supporting women and girls, to the people in the company. We can all be leaders in this movement. We know you do wonderful things in terms of empowering women. Can you tell us a bit more about that? I wanted to inspire women entrepreneurs that a good idea and a little money can go really far—look at my own success. The Business Grant Program for Woman Entrepreneurs was launched in 2004 in conjunction with the company’s 20th anniversary. Since then up to five grants have been awarded each

year for $12,500. One of our 2005 grant winners, Happy Family, who makes organic baby food, used the money to build their company into a $90 million business. This is a good example of the positive work we are doing in the world and how far it can go to help others. A few weeks ago we announced a program called In Her Company with social activist media company TakePart Media to recognize 30 up-and-coming businesses led by women entrepreneurs. Every woman needs other great women role models and it’s clear you are that for many of us—but who inspires you? I am inspired by the dedication, passion and purpose of the people who I work with in the company. I am also inspired by my son, Zack, and daughter, Sasha. Any closing thoughts? Many of the wonderful initiatives in our company like growing sustainability, Green Eileen, and the business grant programs were born from employees’ passion. I want my company to be a place where people have the opportunity to engage, inspire each other, and contribute to the company, each other, and the world. There has been an intentional effort to create an environment where possibilities are born. 41

Feature

Truvée:

The Amazing Journey of the McBride Sisters text by JOA bOHORQUeZ pHOtOgRApHy by liZ cARUAnA

The wine industry has become more multicultural, younger and female-friendly, and sisters Andréa and Robin McBride have become early leaders and tastemakers in this rapidly-evolving market. Born in LA but separated at an early age, both are smart, elegant and easygoing entrepreneurs. They were connected in 1999 and had discovered that they had each separately grown up in beautiful wine regions—Robin in Monterey, California and Andréa in Marlborough, New Zealand. It only took them a handful of years together to embark on their first journey where they launched eco.love Wines, their New Zealand label made in the first CarboNZero™ winery in the world. Now their second project, Truvée (derived from the French word for “to find”) will be a return to their California roots, but this time on the Central Coast. Truvée will launch its first two labels in 2015: a white and a red. Their red wine, a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Merlot and Zinfandel gives notes of rich blueberry, blackberry and red cherry on the nose, while also offering a silky texture on the palate that combines hints of caramel and cocoa influenced by French oak. Their white, a surprisingly fresh and crisp chardonnay, expresses light butter and fruit elements that highlight notes of stone fruits with a touch of citrus and tropical flavors. By applying sustainable practices to ensure the greatest quality and reducing the use of oak to optimize fruit expression, their goal with Truvée is to delight experienced wine drinkers with the complexity of their wine. For their newer drinkers, providing an approachable velvety smoothness, as they learn to unwind the layers of the Central Coast characteristics. SOMA sat down with these innovative women to learn more about their outlook on business, sustainability, and the future of the wine industry: 42

What made you fall in love with wine? Andréa: Vineyards are a peaceful place for me. Being in them working with my sister makes me feel complete. I just feel calm and connected with nature, which makes me feel really good. The entire ecosystem in the vineyard is parallel to many philosophies, love, people, wine—everything is about balance and that’s unique and very attractive to me. How did you start with this business idea? Robin: We jumped into the wine industry in 2005 as U.S. based importers of boutique wines from New Zealand. As our business grew, so did we personally and professionally through all the different experiences we were having. In 2008 we decided we wanted to start a company. The opportunity presented itself to us. We took it, ran with it, and have never looked back! What do you think makes you different from other wine makers? Robin: First off, we’re friends, sisters and we’re approachable winemakers. Second I think we represent a large demographic of people that are rarely seen in the wine business, so when people find us and discover our wines, they seem to feel comfortable having a conversation, they’re usually intensely curious and not intimidated at all, which they tell us, is usually not the case! Why did you decide to call your American label “Truvée”? Andréa: Truvée is derived from the French verb “to find.” We found each other, now we want people to find a wine that matters to them.

What is your perception about the current wine industry? Andréa: Wine drinkers are becoming younger and more cultured and the wine industry has already started to pull down the shade of snobbery. Wine is more approachable and easy to access. People are more eager to learn and want to know about wine. Why do you think wine has become more multicultural? Is it because of the Internet or social media? Robin: Absolutely, I think it is all about communication and access to information, education and about wines in general. You can do your own research before you buy anything. Prices are also becoming a little bit more accessible. People experiment a lot more; everything is at our fingertips. What is the vision for Truvée and eco.love wines? Andréa: We want to be “the” next generation wine company. The older folks had Robert Mondavi and Gallo wine – which is great for them. But our generation wants the confidence that they’re getting an authentic, excellent quality wine, for a great price, with an offering that isn’t limited to one region in the world. We know that they also want to be connected to us during the process and that’s what the McBride Sisters wine brands will provide. 44

What do you envision with your two labels eco.love wine and Truvée? What will be the connection of them? Robin: Our wines are like our kids. Sometimes one wine needs more attention than the others—right now we are focusing our attention on Truvée. eco.love wine will be still available for those loyal to the brand but we really look forward to seeing Truvée grow and get a great reach. 2015 will be the year of Truvée and we will see where that takes us. Can you tell us about your sustainable practices? Andréa: When we’re getting close to harvest Starlings are a problem because they eat the grapes on the vines. We use a Falconer to launch falcons and scare away the Starlings and sometimes they catch them and eat them! It’s better to use natural predator vs shooting them. We also release yellow jackets and other bugs to take care of any pesky insects that might be eating our grapes! What is your advice to women that want to be involved in the wine industry? Andréa: You always have to believe and stay true to yourself. As long as you believe in what you are doing and bring value to the industry … hell yeah you can be involved!

TASTE IS NOW ON TAP #1 NEW BEER PRODUCT FOR 2013.* Twelve distinctive lagers were perfected. Six shone brighter than the rest, and one was chosen to carry the Black Crown label. Introducing Budweiser Black Crown – a premium, golden amber lager with 6% alc./vol. Born from the collaboration of twelve Budweiser brewmasters, and the feedback from 25,000 people at bars, parties and music festivals. The new Budweiser Black Crown is here, and now available on draft.

Style

Chic Beats text By KAtiA GAnFieLD

Beats X Fendi headphones Available Jan 2015 Following Appleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s acquisition of Beats by Dre, the company is now working with high fashion brand Fendi. Their spring 2015 menswear show featured models walking down the runway 46

wearing the headphones in an amalgamation of colors. Beats X Fendi headphones will be available in January 2015 and go for approximately $1300, although the price is yet to be confirmed.

Molami Pleat Headphones, $300 molami.com Molami are a key brand in producing headphones that compliment the female form, and in particular, the bone structure of the face. They are constructed of Napa leather, and very portable in design—the speakers lay flat along one’s chest, resembling a collar. As is standard with all Molami headphones, the remote allows you to make calls while continuing to listen to your music.

LSTN Cherry Wood, Troubadours, $150 lstnheadphones.com LSTN (pronounced “Listen”) headphones are based on lightweight, attractive and minimalistic designs. The earpieces are made of a cherry wood casing, reminiscent of the troubadour’s instrument. This wood-encased speaker generates a warmer sound when compared to more common plastic headsets. LSTN donates a portion of its sales from each purchase to The Starkey Hearing Foundation, who work to restore hearing to people in need around the world. 47

Style

Harmon Kardon Soho-I headphones, $200 Harmonkardon.com These headphones are stylish and comfortable, providing exceptional performance for their size and portability. They feature stainlesssteel arms on each side that are generously padded by a leather headband for a comfortable listening experience. Incredibly lightweight with a nice balance of solid architecture and design, the Harmon Kardon Soho-I headphones are able to fold into oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pocket with ease.

Urbanears X Marc by Marc Jacobs, $45-$60 marcjacobs.com Urbanears has collaborated with Marc by Marc Jacobs for a special edition of vibrant headphones. The collection represents three concepts of nature: ocean, berries and oil, which are illustrated through distinct color palettes. The pair features a removable headband, washable ear cushions and remote. They also include the ZoundPlug, which allows you to easily share music in a friendâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s headphones via an additional jack located within the earpiece.

Val wears Ann Demeulemeester coat from Mr Porter Caruso jumpsuit John Varvatos waistcoat Karl Lagerfeld shirt Sebago boots

Flora wears BLK DNM coat Agi & Sam blazer Caruso apron Boudicca shirt Frye boots

Mudlark Olivia Beasley styling Mark Anthony Bradley PhotograPhy

Val wears Oliver Spencer blazer John Varvatos pants Paul Smith knitwear Richard James shirt Oliver Spencer boots

Flora wears Paul Smith jacket Boudicca pants Folk knitwear Boudicca shirt Doctor Marten boots

Casely Hayford coat Agi & Sam blazer Paul Smith shirt Marni pants from Mr Porter Paul Smith boots

Val wears Alexander McQueen coat from Mr Porter Karl Lagerfeld shirt Paul Smith cardigan Oliver Spencer pants Samsoe Samsoe shoes Pocket square stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own

Flora wears Boudicca coat John Varvatos waistcoat Samsoe Samsoe knitwear Paul Smith pants, shoes

Paul Smith coat Missoni cardigan from Mr Porter Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own vintage shirt collar

Baartmans & Siegel blazer Samsoe Samsoe knitwear Paul Smith pants Costume Studio London belt, hat, scarf and tieclip

Val wears Paul Smith coat Lanvin cardigan from Mr Porter Caruso pants Casely Hayford shirt Oliver Spencer shoes Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own belt

Flora wears Paul Smith coat Folk knitwear Boudicca pants Paul Smith shirt Prada vintage shoes

Val wears Casely Hayford blazer Marc by Marc Jacobs jacket from Mr Porter Caruso waistcoat Oliver Spencer pants Costume Studio London suspenders Bentley Pens in Pockets

Flora wears BLK DNM coat Barbour blazer Samsoe Samsoe knitwear Boudicca pants

BLK DNM coat Boudicca shirt Agi & Sam blazer Caruso apron

Flora wears John Varvatos coat Boudicca blazer Paul Smith waistcoat Boudicca shirt

Val wears Richard Anderson coat Caruso blazer John Varvatos waistcoat Paul Smith shirt Ben Sherman pants Grenson boots Costume Studio London belt, suspenders, neck tie

Makeup by Kristina Vidic using Yves Saint Laurent. Hair by Gow Tanaka at Workgroup using Oribe. Photo assts: Oliver Birta, William Richards. Styling Asst: Bradley Stainton. With thanks to The River Gardens, Greenwich, therivergardens.com.

Refine/Revolt PhotograPhy Martin

Vallin Sylvan hair Dejan Cekanovic Model Caroline Sjรถstrand

Make uP Johanna

This page / Yves Saint Laurent: Pure Chromatics 11, Waterproof Pencil 1, Eyeliner Baby Doll 1, Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils Waterproof Black Noir, Effet faux cils creme d`eyeliner Opposite page / Yves Saint Laurent: Rouge Pur Couture 10 Beige Tribute, Rouge Pur Couture Glossy Satin 19

Yves Saint Laurent: Pure Chromatics 11, Waterproof Pencil 1, Eyeliner Baby Doll 1, Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils Waterproof Black Noir, Effet faux cils creme d`eyeliner

Yves Saint Laurent: YSL Forever Youth Liberator Serum, YSL Forever Youth Liberator Creme SPF 15, YSL Forever Youth Liberator Eye Cream, Top Secrets Wake Up Eye Care, YSL Fusion Ink Foundation, YSL Touché Éclat , YSL Anti-Cernes, YSL Poudre Compacte Radiance, Dare To Glow 03 Naughty Pink, Blush Radiance No 1

Both pages / Yves Saint Laurent: Rouge Pur Couture 10 Beige Tribute, Rouge Pur Couture Glossy Satin 19

Yves Saint Laurent: Pure Chromatics 11, Waterproof Pencil 1, Eyeliner Baby Doll 1, Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils Waterproof Black Noir, Effet faux cils creme d`eyeliner

music

Little Dragon:

Dreaming Under the Northern Lights TEXT by J. poET phoTography by marco VaN riJT

The three founding members of Little Dragon—drummer Erik Bodin, keyboard and bass player Fred Källgren Wallin and front woman Yukimi Nagano—have been making music together since they met in high school in 1996. Despite growing up in Gothenburg, Sweden, they were drawn together by their love of De La Soul and the electro-soul of Prince and Janet Jackson, but they also listened to a lot of vintage American rock, R&B, jazz, pop and soul. When they started playing together, they were determined to make music without limits, mashing up genres into a dance friendly sound that was immediately recognizable—but hard to categorize. “I don’t think categories will be that long lasting in the overall history of music,” Erik Bodin says. “Music is too much of a natural instinct to be bound to a genre. At the end of the day, people just wanna dance to a rhythm or melody and forget about their everyday struggles. We never think of genres when we’re making an album. We make music with no restrictions or borders. We’re always trying to break out of our limitations and go in new directions.” The band is true to their word on Nabuma Rubberband, their 74

latest album and first international release. They’ve made their biggest waves with a combination of club-friendly dance tracks and smoldering ballads featuring Nagano’s simmering vocals, but this time they take a smoother approach. “Paris” and “Klapp Klapp” bounce along with a sound that brings to mind the brittle, new wave club music of the 80s, but most of the songs are wistful, surrealistic soundscapes steeped in the melancholy that comes in the wake of a serious romantic breakup. “The approach was to space out and try to make something that we haven’t heard before,” Fred Wallin explains. “We start out by writing by ourselves, then we invite each other to add to what we have. We write and produce as we go along, looking for sounds that make us want to move. I think this album is a bit less wanky and more refined.” The band’s strong melodies are married to lyrics that tend to be elusive, expressing moods and emotions rather than actual events, adding to the album’s enigmatic feel. “I try to tell my stories with imagery,” Nagano says. “When the subject is very personal, it feels good to be vague so people can be free to interpret the meaning. I do [also] like artists who can write

straightforward lyrics and I attempt to that too.” The band named the collection in honor of a friend, the woman who inspired one of the record’s most cryptic tracks. Nabuma Rubberband is a tense, jittery ode to alienation that compliments Nagano’s mysterious, whispered vocal, with a soundscape full of grim kaleidoscopic images: frosty synthesized strings and sci-fi sound effects suggest the chaos in the hearts of the lost souls that prowl the midnight darkened city streets in search of a connection they doubt they’ll ever find. “‘Nabuma Rubberband’ sounds intriguing,” Bodin says. “Nabuma is a girl’s name in Uganda and we have a friend called Nabuma. Rubberband is the rubberband you would put around a stack of bills, a slang expression for having a lot of money. The two where put together by accident, but we thought it sounded like an epic person with special powers.” Although the band has seen more widespread success in the United States and the rest of world than they have in Sweden, they have no immediate plans to move away from their hometown. They don’t spend much time with other Swedish musicians, preferring to mainly socialize with their families or

in their studio, working on music. “Gothenburg has given us our playful childhood, frustrated teenhood, confused young adulthood and now even settled parenthood,” Bodin says. “We love Gothenburg deeply, but can’t wait to leave it for somewhere else and go on tour for a while. When we’re at home and we have to face the windy, wet harshness of the weather we sometimes get over here, nothing beats going inside our studio to disappear into a lovely melody.” In recent years songs written or produced by Swedes have dominated the American Top 10. Little Dragon doesn’t identify with the Swedish Invasion, but they do have a few ideas about the phenomenon. “It could have something to do with the climate and lack of light in the winter,” Wallen says. “That and the combination of being exposed to British and American culture since the birth of TV and radio. Then add in a social democratic vision of educating kids in the arts and music and providing free practice spaces and instruments. Or maybe it’s just something in the water?”

music

Damien Rice TEXT by William r. laNKForD phoTography by lilJa birgiSDÓTTir

At times, one is compelled to examine the working qualities in poetry: beauty, shape, vision and subtlety. Damien Rice’s long awaited album, My Favourite Faded Fantasy, embodies all of the elements of a personal keepsake, allowing the listener to couple with the steady stream of melodic vulnerability. The album’s opening track broods with sincerity, producing a bold reintroduction into the musical world for Rice. It’s been eight years since the release of the artist’s last album, titled 9, but the Kildare, Ireland native has resurfaced with musical offerings that erase the duration of his absence. Although it’s been just shy of a decade since Rice’s last release, there’s much to be said for the folk singer’s hiatus. He explains, “I got to this place where I had everything I thought I wanted and I still wasn’t happy. That felt very, I guess, disheartening. So I kind of crashed.” After achieving multi-platinum success from his previous albums, Rice appeared to have lost his love for music and the connection with his fellow performers over the years. The ill-ideals of success surfaced, leaving Rice at a crossroads—needless to say, this forced him into a state of intermission. “Chasing dreams can be a great motivation for 76

getting up out of bed in the morning, but if you’re looking for an achievement to give you lasting happiness, you may end up disappointed,” Rice has said. It’s clear that this artist has not skipped a beat, and the collaboration with producer Rick Rubin on Rice’s new album brought him back to a more original state of mind. “I have to really give a lot of thanks to Rick Rubin. He got my engine started again,” Rice said in a recent interview. The twosome began working together in Los Angeles in January 2013 and as the sessions progressed, so did Rice. He has decisively shown his hand, and in a recent press release, he explained about his new album and the recording process: “A lot of it was training at the beginning learning how to walk again, and then it started to flow.” My Favourite Faded Fantasy fills in the rifts that seem to be missing throughout so much music today. Rice’s folk-infused tunes paired with his prevalent accompaniment of string quartets and lyrical phenomena reveal a vast depth of feeling. With songs that guide the listener through the caverns of love, loss, nostalgia and rediscovery, Rice’s resurgence is both noted and celebrated.

SOMA celebrated the release of its Fall Fashion Issue at the beautiful new Moods of Norway store in Los Angeles. Hundreds of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tastemakers, movers and shakers joined the magazine in saluting another season of impeccable SOMA style. Photography by Fenton Photography

At the close of October, San Francisco’s finest joined SOMA at the beautiful new Equinox Union Street facitilites to enjoy an evening of cocktails and celebrate Halloween with an exclusive screening of Hitchcock’s Vertigo. Photography by Ashleigh Reddy

Urbanite

The New Golden Age of Cocktails Text by Gabriel Cothes

Socially speaking, the cocktail is king. Few common customs will entrance and cause obsession in the manner of a properly mixed drink. Urbanites throughout the world scour their cities for the best Old Fashioned, the finest Last Word, often to realize beauty is in the eye of the beholder. There are rules, but none have been set in stone. The cocktail and its blueprint continually change on the whims of the bartender and those lucky enough to imbibe. A drink’s pedigree serves as a backbone, but a cocktail’s current state depends on the creator and a captive audience. The art of imbibing has a history winding back to the beginnings of the New World. The name ‘Cocktail’ remains shrouded in mystery, muddied by many an entertaining anecdote. From hundreds of tales one may date the name’s origin to the end of the 18th century. By 1806, the cocktail was officially defined. In response to an inquisitive reader, the American publication Balance and Columbian Repository published: “A ‘Cocktail’ is a stimulating liquor composed of spirits of any kind, sugar, water, and bitters…It is vulgarly called a “bittered sling.” The word itself has been affixed to many an origin, some are joyous, others might be unsavory, but all are colorful. The word Cocktail was most likely created from a phrase. Which historical phrase, however, is still up for debate. Perhaps the name arrived from the English and their term “cock-tailed,” a horse of a mixed, non82

thoroughbred nature; spirits when mixed were likened to this type of beast. Possibly the “Cocktail” came from down Mexico way through a translation of the phrase Cola de Gallo. In English, Cola de Gallo becomes the phrase “Cock’s Tail.” English sailors down on the Yucatán peninsula witnessed drinks being stirred with a Cola de Gallo, a type of plant root in the 20th century. The sailors renamed what was known before as a “drac” to what would now be known as a “cocktail.” Who is to say which colorful story holds the truth. The best things in life always involve a little myth, a bit of mystery, and are continuously surrounded by a great many tales. By itself, a “cocktail” is nothing but an idea, perhaps a vague notion of many ingredients brought together in one glass. Only when entrusted to certain individuals does this abstract idea take shape. From it’s inception, the mixed drink has been hoisted onto the backs of many a talented bon vivant. The first book of cocktail recipes was published by Jerry Thomas in 1862. This book was appropriately entitled How To Mix Drinks, or The Bon Vivant’s Companion. Thomas’ publication brought together, for the first time, a patchwork of recipes known throughout the country. Recipes for Toddies, Flips, Cobblers, and Sours were all included, all of which are still prevalent today. The art of mixing drinks was firmly in place. By the 1890’s, from New Orleans to San Francisco, “The Golden Age of Cocktails” was in full swing.

FALL CoCktAiLs Mixed by Gabriel Cothes Cocktail Director at the Salt House San Francisco

Toddy Azul 1.5 oz Clase Azul Plata Tequila

.25 oz (or slightly less than) Fire Lit Coffee Liqueur Dried cloves Orange Rind 2 Coffee Beans Begin by heating a snifter and pierce a long cut of orange rind with 4 to 5 cloves. Pour the Tequila and Coffee liqueur into the heated glass and pinch the orange rind, relieving some of the oil over the glass and drop the rest in. Finish off with a pair of coffee beans.

Cocktails and there creators would remain popular all the way up to the onset of prohibition. The laws of prohibition would usher in a new era for the art of mixing drinks. Many of the most talented mixologists would pack their tools and ‘know-how’ and set off for more accommodating shores. Prohibition did not kill the cocktail in America, but it was driven underground. The quality of spirits was severely affected and drinks were often mixed out of necessity and not pure pleasure. Abroad, however, creativity and craft was alive and well. Harry Craddock would capture all the gems of the day in his seminal collection of recipes, The Savoy Cocktail Book. This assemblage of cocktails has arguably become the most influ-

ential recipe book to date. Many of today’s bartenders return time and again to this work for guidance and inspiration. The cocktail was welcomed back to the shores of America, on December 5, 1933 with open arms and great fanfare. With the return of mixed drinks a sense of novelty and fun would edge itself in where craft and sophistication once were. Many began to mix their own libations and become amateur mixologists, operating from home bars in the comfort of their living rooms. This is not to say that the art of mixing drinks had been forgotten, as there were still many a fine establishment crafting libations, but a particular sophistication that had once existed now seemed to be lost. The post-depression, post-war years saw 83

Urbanite

Waistcoat and Tar 1.5oz Pimm’s No. 1 1oz Templeton Rye 4 Concord Grapes 1 slice lemon 2 shakes Peychaud’s Bitters Place the grapes, lemon and Peychaud’s Bitters into a mixing glass. Muddle and mix the rest of the ingredients. Stir until cold and double strain into a double rocks glass. Drop in a large ice cube and garnish with a twist.

the cocktail become simplified in many ways. Martini’s and Highballs were the darling’s of the day. This time of simplicity had one particular exception. Victor Bergeron, of Trader Vic’s fame, would search near and far, sourcing exotic ingredients to mix into his ‘Tiki Drinks.’ His books and restaurants would give rise to a whole new genre of cocktails, which to this day still have a cult following. He is a shining light in a somewhat dim point cocktail history. Today, we have come full circle. The cocktail is again surrounded by sophistication and craft. Interest in forgotten drinks, mixers, and spirits have all fueled a resurgence in an art all but 84

lost. A handful of bartenders have sparked a movement that supersedes any prior in creativity and precision. Modern day bon vivants such as Gary Regan and N.Y.C’s Dale Degroff have spearheaded a renewed interest in the cocktail and the manner in which it is made. A new golden age is upon us, bartenders from all over the world are breaking new ground and putting together ingredients never before combined. From city to city, followers of the cocktail search out bars and restaurants for the latest innovation, the new twist, the most divine drink. Here, in the following pages is a taste of what is to be found, an offering of cocktails to obsess over.

Total Dragon Pop now available on iTunes, Spotify and CD Featuring Earl Slick, Glen Matlock and Clem Burke C + P Slinky Vagabond Records 2014

keananduffty.com

Urbanite

Pillow Talk 2 oz Campo De Encanto Pisco 1.25 oz Spiced Quince Syrup .50 oz Lemon Juice .25 oz Velvet Falernum 3 drops splash of Peychaud’s Bitters 1 egg white Combine all ingredients in a shaker cup, dry shake and then add ice. Shake once more, with ice this time and strain the ingredients into a large coupe glass. Dash a small amount of bitters over the top and garnish with a single rose petal.

Dolly’s Dagger 1oz Bombay Gin 1oz Dolin Dry Vermouth .25 Hibiscus .25 Lemon 4 drops Kübler Absinthe Campari dusted rim Place gin, vermouth, hibiscus syrup, and lemon in a mixing glass and add ice. Stir until very cold and strain into small coupe, that has been rimmed with dry Campari/Sugar dust. With an eyedropper, add four drops of Kübler Absinthe on top of the cocktail.

Last Word

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIKE KOBAL 2

StockiSt Agi & Sam www.agiandsam.com Alexander McQueen www.alexandermcqueen.com Ann Demeulemeester www.anndemeulemeester.be APC www.apc.com Baartmans & Siegel www.baartmansandsiegel.com Barbour www.barbour.co Ben Sherman www.bensherman.com BLK DNM www.blkdnm.com Boudicca www.boudiccacouture.com Boudicca www.boudiccacouture.com Cartier www.cartier.us Caruso www.carusomenswear.com Casely Hayford www.casely-hayford.com Cast of Vices www.castofvices.com Christian Louboutin www.christianlouboutin.com Clover Canyon www.clovercanyon.com Costume Studio www.costumestudio.co.uk Cushnie Et Ochs www.cushnieetochs.com Cutler & Gross www.cutlerandgross.com Degen www.degen-nyc.com DKNY www.dkny.com Dr. Marten www.drmartens.com En Noir www.ennoir.com Fleur Du Mal www.fleurdumal.com Folk www.folkclothing.com Fred Perry www.fredperry.com Frye www.thefryecompany.com Grenson www.grenson.co.uk John Varvatos www.johnvarvatos.com Karl Lagerfeld www.karl.com La Perla www.laperla.com

Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Vintage Clothing www.levisvintageclothing.com Maison Kitsune shop.kitsune.fr Marc by Marc Jacobs www.marcjacobs.com Marni www.marni.com Married to the Mob www.mttmnyc.com Michael Kors www.michaelkors.com Missoni www.missoni.com Moncler eng.moncler.com Mr Porter www.mrporter.com Oliver Spencer www.oliverspencer.co.uk Paul Smith www.paulsmith.co.uk Phillip Lim www.31philliplim.com Prada www.prada.com Rainbow Sandals www.rainbowsandals.com Richard Anderson www.richardandersonltd.com Richard James www.richardjames.co.uk Rolex www.rolex.com Samsoe Samsoe www.samsoe.com Sebago www.sebago.com Stampd www.stampd.co Tania Spinelli www.taniaspinelli.com The Great Frog www.thegreatfroglondon.com Unearthen www.seeunearthen.com UNIF www.unifclothing.com Uniform Wares www.uniformwares.com Vera Wang www.verawang.com Versus Versace www.versusversace.com Victoria Beckham www.victoriabeckham.com Yves Saint Laurent www.ysl.com Zama Bayne www.zanabayne.com

SOMA

THE OBSESSION ISSUE

VOL 28.6

NIGEL BARKER / EILEEN FISHER / MCBRIDE SISTERS / VICTORIA BECKHAM