Peace & Power in Porto

BY MEREDITH PRICE LEVITT

“It’s not perfect but it’s Porto”

Maybe it was low expectations. Or perhaps it was not knowing what to anticipate from a last-minute family vacation during the era of constantly shifting COVID-19 Travel Restrictions. It could have even been the subconscious notion that Porto plays second fiddle to Lisbon and might actually just be a big, boring city overrun with university students, shabby bars and cheap eateries.

The bottom line? Pure astonishment. Porto is a picturesque blend of ancient and modern, a majestic pearl nestled among the verdant hills of the River Douro. Steeped in history, it is one of the oldest cities in Europe (4th Century with Celtic and Proto-Celtic remains) yet it percolates with a contemporary artistic confidence and laid-back nonchalance. Rather than needing to eclipse the competition, Porto seems satisfied with its unique charm and beguiling individuality. Apparently Einstein played second fiddle too. But seriously, chapeau to second place in Portugal.

Blue ribbon-worthy on a long and rather demanding checklist required to successfully fulfil adult desires (drinking some port and eating at an actual table) without forfeiting the needs of small children (who want seagulls, green spaces, or waves), Porto has something for everyone. Literally.

Dom Luis I Bridge

@Reuven Levitt

Friendly, helpful, smiling locals: check. Jawdroppingly beautiful and architecturally astounding bridges (six of them, in fact): check.

Well-preserved historical buildings, stunning cathedrals, iconic railway stations, lavish palaces, quirky street art, palatial gardens, fabulous restaurants and interesting museums: check.

Despite several disappointing misses due to current restrictions, the vast majority of venues remain open. And on the plus side, social distancing is easy. Most of the stores, museums, churches, libraries and whatever else you have on your must-see bucket list pleasantly lack the thronging crowds that normally flock to this popular second city. In fact, once you get used to donning a mask and learn how to navigate the precarious opening hours created by the COVID-19 reality, exploring Porto in the fall is nothing short of fabulous.

If you’re an early riser, head to the famed Ribeira neighbourhood for a stroll along the banks of the River Douro. Watch pink light explode above the somnolent city and reflect off the water in impressionistic streaks of gold and fuschia. High above you, bridges unfurl from one landmass to another, cocooning the city and stretching over 50 meters into the air as if they were part of the sky.

Beside the waterfront, vintage furniture warehouses with in-store cafes cohabitate with unimposing, venerable art supply stores selling colourful powders from dusty shelves circa 1948. Fourteenth-century churches stand in diagonal glory to uber-modern glass and iron reconstructions, their original grey stones contrasting with the bright, eye-popping colours of new creations.

Famed azulejo tiles abound in Porto

@Reuven Levitt

Throughout the serpentine, cobblestone streets, restaurants vary from older, traditional Portuguese hole-in-the-wall eateries to glitzy new hotspots where diners armed with Google map ratings line the kerb for a table.

This perplexing mixture of old versus new gives modern-day Porto its unexpected charm. You can spend the morning in a twelfth-century church admiring Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque styles and then head to the Serralves Museum of Contemporary Art for a stunning treetop walk and inspiring interactive exhibits.

Yoko Ono’s words PEACE IS POWER line a massive white wall in bold black letters at the museum entrance. Porto’s tradition of supporting liberals fighting injustice and repression dates back to 1820. At that time, the local citizens rebelled against the monarchy and demanded a constitution, ultimately winning their fight despite a year-long siege. This struggle later helped establish the Portuguese Republic of 1910. Inside, John Lennon and Yoko Ono sing Give Peace a Chance in a 1960s reel on large screens. As uprisings around the world are gaining momentum and conspiracy theories abound, hearing their music invites us to imagine a different world.

As we stand on the precipice of a dynamic and seismic global shift, most of us not fully understanding what is happening or what is coming, it’s great to be reminded that we are still in charge of what is most important: our own imagination. If we can imagine a better world, we can help create it.

So despite the hardships and beyond the chaos, travelling still has the power to transform your preconceived notions and ultimately remind you that what you think you know is often far from true -- especially when it comes to giving a magnificent city like Porto a second-class status.