ALL ABOUT
S U S H I h istory
i
etiqu ette
i
i ng r e di e nts by: Toni Hausmann
intro
2
i
ush
of S
Th
eH
CH
isto ry
AP
TE
R
1
5
CONTENTS
13
R 2tte E T P tique
A C Hper Sushi E Pro
CHAP
Traditio n
VO
Te rm
in
TE R 3
al Japan
CA
olo
gy
ese Ingr
B
to
edients 23
U
He
LA
lp
Un
RY
de
rst
an
d
30
a ki r a b I
Saitama
K 4
a
ib
Ch
a n
wa a g
Tokyo Bay
a
Tokyo Pacific Ocean
sus
hi
his tor y
Like some cuisines in Japan,
sushi incorporated many foreign influences. Most of these dishes do not even have a hint of the original cuisine influence since they have evolved into entirely different recipes through hundreds of years. The Edomae sushi (Edo style sushi; Edo is the old name of Tokyo), or plain “sushi� known to the world today, is a combination of vinegar flavored rice and the Japanese Sashimi. All the original ingredients were local to the Edo Bay, or the present Tokyo Bay. Sushi is often confused with raw fish and rice. This is correct if referring to the Edo style sushi, but originally, sushi was a term for fermented meat or fish, which was prepared for the sole purpose of preservation. 5
Ikebana —The Japanese Art of Flower Arrangement, 7th century Japanese art.
6
the begining. It is believed that sushi has its roots in
Southeast Asia where fish and meat were salted, then fermented for long periods of time. Records of similar methods of fermented fish are first seen in Chinese scriptures in the second century. It also seems that it was not the most popular dish at the time. This type of sushi is documented in Japan in the seventh century. It was later in the Heian period during the tenth century when uncooked rice was stuffed inside the fish after they were gutted, and cleaned with sake or Japanese rice wine, before they were fermented. A fresh water fish such as carp was often used for this type of sushi, and was called the nare sushi (ripe sushi). The rice aided in the fermentation process and made it quicker to prepare than the original sushi. The rice was discarded after the fermentation was complete (a period of 2 to 3 months depending on the season) and only the fish was consumed. During the Muromachi Period, or fifteenth century, the nare sushi began to divide into two types, the hon nare (true ripe) and nama nare (raw ripe, or pre-ripe). The hon nare is the original version of the sushi which began its roots in the tenth century. The nama nare is the same type of sushi, but it is consumed prematurely. This way the rice stuffed inside the fish aids the fermentation process and became somewhat edible. The nama nare sushi is distinct from the hon nare in that it has a more pleasant sour taste. Eventually the nama nare became more popular for its quicker preparation and its extra side dish, the fermented rice which had a mild tangy flavor to it. 7
Famous Ukiyo-e print by Utamaro is from the height of the Edo period.
8
evolution.
About a hundred years later
in the sixthteenth century, vinegar was beginning to be added to cut the preparation time even further. This way, only minimal time was required for fermentation, since vinegar was added later to artificially create the tangy taste. This was not done just to cut time and cost for hon nare or nare production. It was actually more favorable to people, since nare sushi in general has a very pungent smell, and was not widely appreciated by many, even though it was (and still is) considered a delicacy. From here on, less and less fermentation was required to create nare sushi, and eventually a new type of sushi using only fresh vinegar and cooked rice
began to evolve. This began a trend of new types of sushi being evolved in local areas, such as the Osaka style sushi, Oshi sushi, chirashi sushi and nuku sushi just to mention a few. All of these are still popular in Japan. Although sashimi or slices of raw fish were consumed in Japan for centuries, it was not
until between 1827 and 1829 when sushi and raw fish were first combined. This became what is known as the Edo style sushi. This is the sushi widely known to the world today. It was initially created as an inexpensive fast food to cater the busy streets of Edo, and proved to be a success from the beginning. The vinegar rice resembling the naturally fermented sushi rice helped the sashimi from spoiling too quickly, and the fast preparation made it ideal for such a business. 9
Interview with Executive Chef of RA Sushi, Tai Obata – Jessica Lemmo What made you decide you would become a professional cook? I was inspired and determined when I realized that my culinary skills were versatile and important for making a living. Also, I believed that my culinary skills were universal and I could obtain a job anywhere across the globe.
Would you do it again? Absolutely! I wouldn’t be where I am today without that training and time spent honing my skills.
Favorite gadget? For cooking—I cannot think of any at the moment…just my hands! I depend on them the most!
Funniest kitchen incident? Pranks I did to the staff. One time… I asked a new employee to go and find a left-handed sauté pan.
Favorite food to cook with? Seafood items.
Favorite dish to make at work? Sushi / Sashimi, of course!
When at home, what do you like to eat? Believe it or not, but I like to eat pasta.
Your favorite cookbook? Les Dîners de Gala by Salvador Dali 10
modern.
During the late 1970s,
Japanese businesses started expanding to the United States, and more and more sushi restaurants opened to serve the Japanese businessmen living locally. Besides catering to the local Japanese, sushi chefs in the United States tried hard to introduce sushi to Americans, but it was difficult to persuade people to try eating raw fish. Soon, the California roll was invented, and sparked a new trend towards fusion sushi. The California roll was the perfect introductory sushi for people unfamiliar to raw fish. More and more Westerners started to eat raw fish and many adaptations were made to the Edo style sushi to adapt with western culture.
The history of sushi is very long, and the interesting thing about it is that the sushi evolves through time. Without the advice and comments of Western customers, it would have been difficult for a conservative sushi chef in Japan to create all the new types of sushi that are now made today. Some things that were considered taboo in the Edo style sushi tradition actually turned out to be very good. At the present, the tradition of sushi has spread world wide, and is in the fusion style sushi, or American style sushi phase. It has been this way for almost twenty years and is starting to level off(as a culinary evolution), since there have been no recent revolutionary “breakthroughs� like the California roll. Many new rolls are seen here and there, but they are only different combinations of existing ingredients with different names given to them. Fusion or American style sushi is more of a new versatile attitude towards sushi, and once again, it has been proved to be an evolving cuisine. It will be interesting to wait and see what the next trend in sushi will be. 11
12
Sushi etiquette
h s su
t e i
e u iq
tte
is really nothing special. Hopefully, many people will not refrain from going to sushi bars because it seems that there is this mysterious thing called sushi etiquette. It is very basic, and you should be able to enjoy your time without even thinking about it. I am not going to give you a list, but rather explain with common sense, so it comes naturally. Most things are universal, but some have minor twists because of cultural differences in ideology. 13
14
try not to make your dishes dirty.
The dish is considered an art of its own,
so defacing it is considered a bit rude. So, do not mix and smother wasabi in the soy sauce dish. Simply put a piece of it on the sushi before lightly dipping it on the tray. You should not replace food that has been bitten. All sushi should be eaten in one bite. A good sushi chef should be able to estimate a bite size for each customer by looking at them, so they do not have to bite the sushi in half. If the sushi is too big, then it is not your fault. 15
16
eat it as is.
Sushi is sort of
considered as an art as well, so try to eat it as is. Do not drench your sushi with soy sauce. First of all, this is bad for your health. This also masks the flavors of the sushi, and makes the sushi look like it fell in a bucket of soy sauce. Only a drop or two of soy sauce should be used. Dip the sushi at an angle and just barely touch the soy sauce. If you are eating a nigiri simply support it with your fingers and turn your wrist so the sashimi side touches the soy sauce. This is not just etiquette, but the best way to taste your sushi. 17
18
try to taste all the sashimi.
This does not mean that
you have to eat everything in the sushi bar. But if you really want to taste and appreciate all your favorite sushi, then you should start with the lightest tasting fishes (Halibut, Red Snapper) then gradually go on to the stronger flavors such as toro, salmon, or uni. If you only like to eat the oily fishes, then it is perfectly fine to start off with it. This is not considered an etiquette breach, but rather shows how knowledgeable and serious you are about eating. You don’t want to start off with a rich flavored fish, because it will be hard to taste the lighter fish with more delicate aromas. 19
20
don’t be greedy.
This should not be misinterpreted.
You are the customer, and you are paying for your food after all. It is just a thought about trying to control your appetite. It also implies to not order the same thing over and over just because you love it. This may seem childish. Egg omelet is ordered at the end to yoku wo shimeru or to curb your appetite and call it a night. The sweet omelet acts the same as any desert, and settles your stomach. These are very hard core etiquette points, so do not be discouraged, or loose interest. Many sushi restaurants have a more cordial atmosphere, so you can really do whatever you want. Just keep these tips in mind if you happen to have a chance to go to an old school, traditional type of sushi bar. 21
22
s c i as
su
b i sh
The basic seasoning
for sushi is soy sauce. Sometimes sea salt is used instead to taste the ingredient’s full flavors. Ponzu, or soy sauce blended with citrus is frequently used for ligher tasting fish. The soy sauce can also be blended with other ingredients depending on the chef’s taste. 23
24
main ingredients. [neta]
The main ingredient is
mainly raw seafood. There are other non-seafood ingredients, but they are mostly complimentary ingredients. The main ingredients can be categorized into the following:
fish shellfish crustacean roe other seafood non-seafood 25
26
sushi rice. [shari]
The sushi rice is
a mixture of cooked Japanese rice and a blended sushi vinegar, consist of rice vinegar, salt, sugar, rice wine, sweet rice wine, and kelp. They are mixed with the rice to enhance the flavors of the main ingredient.
japanese rice kome rice vinegar su rice wine sake sweet rice wine mirin sugar satou kelp kombu 27
Yakumi directly translates to “medicinal flavor�. As the name implies, most of them have strong anti-bacterial properties. Although wasabi is generally used, there are many other variations tailored to each main ingredient.
28
condiments. [yakumi]
Traditional Condiments
Kabosu Japanese Citrus Negi Scallion Shiso Perilla Leaf Shoga Ginger Sudachi Japanese Citrus Umeboshi Pickled Plum Wasabi Japanese Horse Radish Yuzu Japanese Citrus
Seasonings used in Fusion Style Sushi
Ichimi “One Spice” Red Chili Powder Shichimi “Seven Spice” Red Chili Powder
Condiments Used in Fusion Style Sushi Condiments used in Chili Oil Rayu New Style Sushi Chomiryo Japanese Citrus Japanese Mayonnaise Ponzu Soy Sauce Blended with Salt Sauce Sriracha Sauce Seasonings
Asatsuki Chive Daikon Radish Momiji Oroshi Red Chili Myoga Myoga Ginger Bud Yuzu Kosho Green Chili Yuzu Peels 29
vocab Arigato Chakin Chirashi Domo (DOH-moh) Edomae Gari Gyoku (means jewel) Hashi Inari-zushi Itamae-san Kanpai Konbanwa Murasaki (means purple) Namida (means tears) Neta Nigiri
30
Thank you.
Vinegared rice wrapped in a thin egg crepe Assorted raw fish and vegetables over rice Thank you. Same as nigiri Vinegared ginger Tamago
Chopsticks Vinegared rice and vegetables wrapped in a bag of fried tofu. The Sushi Chef The Japanese equivalent of “cheers,� used when drinking. Good evening. Soy sauce Wasabi Sushi topping Pieces of raw fish over vinegared rice balls.
u l a r y. Nori Oaiso Oshibori Oshinko Oshi Oyasumi nasai Sabinuki Sashimi Shamoji Shari Shoyu Sumimasen Tataki Tekka-don Uchiwa Wasabi
The sea vegetable used with rolled sushi. The check.
Rolled up hot towel served to sushi bar customers. Japanese pickles. Osaka-style sushi: squares of pressed rice topped with vinegared/cooked fish. Good night. No wasabi. Raw fish served chilled, sliced, and arranged without rice. Sushi rice paddle. Vinegared rice ball. Soy sauce. Excuse me. Pounded, almost raw fish. Pieces of raw tuna over rice. Fan, used for fanning sushi rice. Japanese horseradish. 31
credits photography taken by: jessica moyer page 10 photos courtesy: Ra Sushi lighting: marcus guiellette sushiencyclopedia.com sushi-master.com www.examiner.com Interview with Executive Chef of RA Sushi, Tai Obata— Jessica Lemmo Hana Japanese Market thai chef bonsai cafe asia