METRO WORLD NEWS
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Monday, 07 March 2011 www.metrotravel.com
TRAVEL
MONDAY, 07 MARCH 2011
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we live where you’re going
DISCOVERING RUSSIA ON THE TRANS-SIBERIAN EXPRESS {page 03}
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Travel eye
masks sleep easy
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{page 06}
What’s inside
Discover Russia on the TransSiberian {page 03}
Taste of Brazil {page 04}
GETTY IMAGES
Top 5 F1 races for foodies {page 05} + An scenester’s guide to Rome {page 02}
Art scenester’s Rome tips {page 02}
Eye masks to help you sleep well in-flight {page 06}
Taste of Brazil {page 04}
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www.metrotravel.com MONDAY, 07 MARCH 2011
GET INTO MY CITY: ROME As a mover and shaker of Rome’s art scene, Luca Lo Pinto is the perfect guide to the best of his city He is an art curator, writer and editor of Nero, a quarterly arts & culture magazine Born in Rome but with Tuscan and Sicilian roots, Luca will fill you in on ‘his’ world: cream-filled croissants, shopping for papal socks and enjoying a vodka sour at his local cocktail bar, LUCA LO PINTO TRAVEL@METRO.LU
The cool curator’s Italy
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ENIT VITO ARCOMANO
t’s rare to find a city like Rome. It’s a contemporary place surrounded by historic ruins and this juxtaposition is one of its most fascinating aspects. As I always say "Rome is cool because it's not cool!" The pace of life here is very slow, you can add an extra hour for everything you do. As it’s in the South, outsiders think of it as exotic. Every-
First time? Rome is basically an openair museum. Taking a walk around and getting lost in the centre of the city in the middle of the night is the best thing to do. First timers should also make sure they pay a visit to the Vatican Museum, which has one of the biggest art collections in the world. The Pantheon and the Coliseum are two things you should see, considering they both represent the greatness of local architecture. In the afternoon, go for a stroll around Villa Borghese Gardens, (www.galleriaborghese.it). It’s one of the biggest parks in Rome and has fountains, temples and sculptures.
Been there before? Visit Museo Praz the house museum of art historian Mario Praz, and The Protestant Cemetery in Testaccio. It’s nice to walk there, with lots of green space, it’s where artists and poets like Keats and Shelley are
thing here is wonderful: the food, people and places. Its distance from the other big Italian cities makes it more exciting and gives a different perspective on life, as here you have time to digest what’s going on. For more information check out www.italian tourism.com
ENIT SANDRO BEDESSI
Villa Borghese
Shopping! The Pantheon
buried. Visit the psychedelic Capuchin Crypt, in the Santa Maria Della Concezione dei Cappuccini church, which is decorated with 4,000 human bones which are made into patterns. It’s scary and fascinating. Explore the area around Via Veneto, it’s where all where the artists used to hang out. FLICKR CC BARRY ADAMS
The flashiest shops are on Via Condotti. It’s the equivalent of Bond Street in London. Gammarelli is where I get my socks, they are based on historic designs for priests and the shop still works with the church. The colour of the sock depends on the grade, so you can choose to buy a cardinal or bishop’s sock (meschaussettesrouges.com). For classic menswear I go to Schostal (schostalroma.com) and for tailoring I go to Bomba (cristinabomba.com). Motel Slaieri is a shop and exhibition space that sells
Eat
Capuchin Crypt
Go for breakfast at Pasticceria Bernasconi (Via Cairoli 16), the best Jewish bakery in Rome. It’s a stand-up bar so just order a homemade cream croissant (cornetti) and espresso at the counter. For
ENIT VITO ARCOMANO
Stay in Hotel Locarno is the only very chic hotel in town and it oozes old school glamour. (hotellocarno.com).
Go out
Via Condotti
cool brands including Comme des Garcons (motelsalieri.org). Not to miss,
is Miss France 1956: a shop run by an ex-Miss France that opens at midnight.
lunch I recommend Da Settimio (117 via del pellegrino). It’s a very old place and coming here is like going for lunch at your mother’s house. The food is simple but sublime. I often get the pasta and meatballs. Dinner at Trattoria Monti (Via di San Vito 13)
run by the Cameruci family, will blow you away. Franca the mother and cook makes the most amazing egg-yolk filled pasta, tortelli. It’s very popular though, so I would recommend booking as far in advance as you can.
The best of the worst of Rome takes place at infamous after-hours club Frutta e Verdura (fruttaeverdura.roma.it). To experience the Roman hipster scene, go to Vicious (viciousclub.tumblr.com). For a more laid back experience, I go to Caffe Parione (Via Della Pace 40). The 80year-old bar tender, Ivano, makes the most amazing cocktails. HOTEL LOCARNOX
Hotel Locarno
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MONDAY, 07 MARCH 2011
TRAVEL WITH A TWIST: RUSSIA BY RAILWAY
Taking in Russia on the Trans-Siberian Railway One of the most exciting train journeys in the world is a six-day ride across Russia The ride on the Trans-Siberian Railway is fun, but the real treats are found off the rail tracks from the heart of Moscow to the towns of Siberia 015_PHOTO CREDIT. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
ANTHONY JOHNSTON METRO WORLD NEWS
ANTHONY.JOHNSTON@METRO.LU
“The real joy of the Trans-Siberian is when you get off to explore local areas.” The Trans-Siberian rail route is one of the world’s most memorable: stretching more than 9,259 kilometres from Moscow to Vladivostok, passing through 87 cities and towns, crossing seven time zones and two continents, a journey on the Trans-Siberian is an extraordinary adventure and every moment brings new surprises. The truly Russian version of the experience is arguably found while shacking up in the 3rd class – here, the carriage is effectively one large dormitory, a playground in which to enjoy drink-fuelled banter with fellow travellers and sample various culinary delights the hospitable Russian folk have on offer. But despite the fun of being on a train ride that seemingly never ends, the real joy in the Trans-Siberian is getting off to explore local areas. Ekaterinburg, the first major stop in Asian Russia along the Trans-Siberian route may seem to be your typical Russian provincial city – but this industrial hub at the foot of the Ural Mountains boasts huge historic interest. Here you can visit the site where Tsar Nicholas II and the last of the Romanov dynasty were executed by the Bolsheviks in 1918. A grand Orthodox church with sparkling golden domes – distinctly called the Church on Blood in Honour of All Saints Resplendent in the Russian Land – now stands on the fateful site. Moving eastwards, try a few days living in Mongolian-style tents along the shores of Lake Baikal. Locals say this ancient lake is sa-
The Trans-Siberian ANTHONY JOHNSTON
cred so it’s no wonder that Olkhon, an island of boundless steppe located in the middle of the lake, is populated by shamans, mystic soothsayers that profess to be messengers between the human and the spiritual world. On the eastern shores of the lake lies Ulan-Ude, a town populated by the Buryat people, an ethnic minority related to Mongolians. One of the most curious sights in his town is the world’s largest bust of Lenin on the main square. Visitors should also visit nearby Ivolginsky Datsan, a restored Tibetan Buddhist monastery and central Buddhist spiritual centre in Russia. Getting from A to B on this route is fun, but the Trans Siberian's real allure comes from learning about the immense variety in nature and in culture this vast country affords, when you step off the train. For more information check out eng.rzd.ru
Quick tips
EAT
Stock up with Russian gettogether snacks, including pancakes with red caviar, salt-dried vobla fish, pork fat (a delicacy known as ‘salo’) and the popular Russian beer, ‘Siberian Crown’.
STAY Hotel Baikal in the quaint
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PLACES TO STOP OFF EN ROUTE
village of Listvyanka boasts impressive panoramas of Russia’s sacred lake. In winter this 1970s hotel looks like the Overlook Hotel from movie “The Shining”! lakebaikaltravel.com
SHOP Visit Vernisazh market less than 4km northeast of Moscow for matrioshka dolls to real fur Ushanka hats.
FLICKR CC SYNCHROSWIMR
Ivolginsky Datsan
FLICKR CC TAKWING KWONG
GETTY IMAGES
MOSCOW
LAKE BAIKAL
VLADIVOSTOK
Taking a stroll on Red Square, dominated by the iconic St. Basil’s Cathedral and the Kremlin, is a thrill – you’re at the very heart of ‘Mother Russia’.
Lake Baikal, the world's oldest and deepest lake, is famous for its pristine bright blue waters. It’s home to thousands of unique plant and animal species.
Home to the Russian Pacific Fleet, this port was closed to foreigners under communism. Now visitors can see hundreds of Russian navy recruits in smart uniform.
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MONDAY, 07 MARCH 2011
GOURMET TRAVELLER: BRAZIL
Get a flavour for Brazil in Sao Paulo Brazil’s cuisine is as diverse as the country is vast Fortunately it’s possible to try out all the culinary treats the country has to offer in the city of São Paulo All dishes are washed down with the national drink, the caipirinha CAIO GUATELLI-FOLHAPRESS
MARIANNA PEDROZO
Quick tips
METRO BRAZIL
BUY
MARIANNA.PEDROZA@METROJORNAL.COM.BR
Sample Brazil’s most exotic fruits at the huge market Mercadão in downtown São Paulo. It’s also a place to try snacks including saltcod pasties ‘pastéis de bacalhau’, chewy cheese rolls, ‘pão de queijo’, the energyboosting pulp of the acai fruit from the Amazon and the famous bologna meat sandwich. mercadomunicipal.com.br
“The cuisine is as varied and as colourful as this country’s people” You may be more familiar with its dance or music styles, but Brazil offers a singular gastronomical experience, particularly for carnivores. Prepare yourself for high quality meats, strong seasoning and mouth-watering dishes with bold flavors. And prepare to find it all in one place. In the city of São Paulo visitors can try the specialties of Brazil in one sprawling metropolis, offering restaurants for every regional cuisine and budget. Some of the most distinctive dishes come from the north-eastern states, including Bahia, which boasts the exotic, historical city of Salvador. Dishes here get their unique flavour from palm oil and coriander. Another specialty of the northeastern states is beef jerky.
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DISHES TO TRY... WHEN YOU’RE DINING IN SAO PAULO
LEARN Learn how to prepare a good moqueca at Capim Santo restaurant. The chef can teach you how to cook traditional and historic dishes and even dishes created for the Afro-Brazilian religion, Candomble. When you escape the city, visit their blissful pousada in Trancoso, Bahia. capimsanto.com.br
STAY
Carnivores will love churrascaria restaurants
A Sunday lunch favourite is the ‘feijoada’, a heavy stew made with black beans and different cuts of pork. This filling dish should be accompanied by a glass of caipirinha – a typical Brazilian drink prepared with cachaça, a strong alcoholic
drink made from sugar cane. You might also like to schedule in a siesta to allow yourself to digest. The dining experience here is often interactive. Try the self-service kilo-buffet ‘bufet a kilo’, or a carnivorous churrascaria, a rotis-
serie-style restaurant where waiters come to your table to carve slices of different cuts of juicy roasted meat from huge skewers onto your plate. Each diner is given a disc, which is green on the one side, red on the other, so waiters know whether
or not you’re ready for your next round. Novices can even ask for a map that shows you what part of the cow you’re eating. For more information check out www.braziltour.com
For a treat, stay at Hotel Unique. Food at the hotel’s restaurant is inspired by the mix of Brazilian, French, Italian and Japanese culinary cultures in the city. It has incredible views over Sao Paulo and does a superb caipirinha. hotelunique.com.br
CAIO GUATELLI-FOLHAPRESS
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BARBECUE
ESCONDIDINHO
The specialty of Rio Grande do Sul state, in the southern region of Brazil. At a barbeque, or ‘churrascaria’, different cuts of beef are roasted over coals and carved at your table. Side dishes including rice and salad are allyou-can-eat and self-service.
A typical dish from Pernambuco state, in the North-Eastl, and from cities in the central state of Minas Gerais, escondidinho is prepared with shredded jerked meat and mashed manioc. Chefs usually use butter as a seasoning and topped with curd cheese.
MOQUECA DE PEIXE This Northeastern speciality is a thick stew of seasoned fish and seafood. Each region of the country has its special version: the traditional moqueca from the state of Bahia is prepared with coconut milk and palm oil.
ACARAJÉ An Afro-Brazilian dish typical of the North-East, acarajé is a ball made from a paste of black-eyed beans, onions and salt, deep-fried in palm oil. The ball is stuffed with shrimp, pepper, vatapá (a dish prepared with seafood) and salad.
LEMON CAIPIRINHA The national cocktail is prepared with cachaça, Brazil’s answer to rum. This potent drink accompanies feijoadas, barbecues and sunny afternoons on the beach. Crush limes with sugar, then add ice and cachaca, stir, then pour into a frozen glass.
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MONDAY, 07 MARCH 2011
TOP 5: PLACES TO EAT OUT DURING THE F1 SEASON
The F1 season for foodies
There are 19 GP races that could be the focus of a memorable weekend trip Make a holiday of the most inviting destinations The head of catering at McLaren-Mercedes gives her top five restaurants on the F1 season circuit
EMMA E. FORREST
GETTY IMAGES
METRO WORLD NEWS EMMA.FORREST@METRO.LU
“Celebrate your favourite team’s results at one of the best restaurants on the F1 circuit.” Going to an F1 race is a great excuse to have a mini holiday; watch the races during the day and eat out in the evenings. We got our restaurant tips from foodie and F1 circuit veteran, Lyndy Redding. She’s Managing Director of Absolute Taste, the catering company that feeds the hungry drivers, engineers and VIP guests of McLaren Mercedes team. For more information check out www.f1.com
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MELBOURNE
SHANGHAI
March 27
April 17
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VALENCIA June 26
Taxi
T8
El Molinon
It’s Japanese-Australian fusion here: “A great buzzy restaurant. The chefs are on show and it is great to watch the massively busy kitchen at work. The food is art and all tastes great without exception. The staff knows their stuff and are obviously foodies too, describing all the food with great enthusiasm and to top it all off there is a fabulous wine list with lots of local wines and a sommelier who knows his wine. I never miss a visit to Taxi.” transporthotel.com.au
“Yummy fusion food in a restaurant with an Asian ambience, in a fun part of the city. We always have a team party here and the chefs and hospitality love the food – the staff are gracious and charming. They have a boutique wine list that is very welcome, it’s great to have wines that are as delicious as the dishes they serve. I am always inspired when we eat there. The kitchen is openplan with bar seats so you can look straight into the kitchen.” t8shanghai.com
“This is a fabulous little find – a great cider and tapas bar. It is quite unique, with little barrels on the sawdust floor that are actually spittoons. The cider is poured from arms’ length at a height and it is just great to watch. Loads of locals fill the place and the tapas is amazing! The staff are also friendly, so you really feel at home.“ C/ Bolsería, 40, 46001 Valencia, Spain
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MONTE CARLO May 29
Alain Ducasse at La Bastide de Moustiers “Top chef Alain Ducasse’s restaurant in Provence is a place to visit before or after the Grand Prix. The food is cooked each day according to what is available from the garden and locally. It is a gastronomic paradise – the best food cooked under the watching eye of the great chef himself in one of the most stunning places in the world.” bastide-moustiers.com
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SILVERSTONE July 10
The Kingham Plough “The best gastro pub to visit from Silverstone is a short drive away, in Chipping Norton, Oxfordshire. The Kingham Plough’s chef Emily Watkins was trained by [culinary maverick] Heston Blumenthal so the food is fun and interesting but is still approachable, so not too intense after a day at the track. It’s also a great place to stay as the rooms are beautiful and decorated in a simple chic English style.” thekinghamplough.co.uk
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GADGETS: SLEEP MASKS
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FOR SWEET DREAMS
1 OTIS BATTERBEE TRAVEL EYE MASK
Otis Batterbee’s Prince of Wales check sleep mask is one for the first class flyer who has it all. €50, $69, www.otisbatterbee.com
2 NATURA ORGANIC SLEEP MASK If you’re conscious about your carbon footprint, but still don’t mind spending money on a sleep mask, then this, made from organic cotton and wool, is definitely for you. €22, $30, www.dreamessentials.com
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3 HIBERMATE SLEEP MASK It may look like a virtual reality mask, but it’s the practical option for those business types who are serious about their sleep, with complete blackout fabric and ear muffs to block out sound too. €29, $36, www.hibermate.com MWN
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