a head of its time tri-zone™ technology
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Moroccanoil. Beyond Beautiful Hair.
IN TREASURED MEMORY - COLIN ETBERG 1942-2013
It is with great sadness and pride that we honour the lifetime
popular with both clients and staff, as well as respected by
achievements of Colin Etberg, who passed away after a
members of the hairdressing community. Colin’s sense of
battle with cancer in November 2013.
humour, compassion and unscrupulous fairness touched all
Colin founded Goldwell South Africa in 1982 and grew the
who had dealings with him, on both a professional or personal
company from strength to strength, placing Goldwell on the
level. He was actively involved in many industry associations
map among the top professional hair product manufacturers
and charity organisations, and also a keen golfer.
in the country.
Colin was an industry legend who greatly contributed to
In 1988, Goldwell International was bought by the KAO group,
hairdressing in South Africa. He will be fondly remembered
a Japan-based industry giant. Colin stayed at the helm of
and missed by all who knew him for the great man that he
Kao Professional Salon Services in Services, with the addition
was. Colin is survived by his wife Rodana, children and
of the KMS California brand under his responsibility, until his
grandchildren.
retirement in 2012. He was a brilliant leader and extremely
editorial The silver lining As I quickly approach the age of 30, my body has started to show signs of my declining AFRICA youth. I have never been one for over concern when faced with the thought of getting older, until the happy expression lines on my forehead and smile lines around my eyes started becoming permanent fixtures on my face. Artistic Direction: Angelo Seminara International Creative Colour Ambassador: Edoardo Paludo Photographer: Andrew O’Toole Make-up Artist: Mel Arter @ CLM Nails: Mike Pockock @ CLM Stylist: Niccolò Torelli
At the same time, my mom, youthful and energetic as ever at the age of 54, started experiencing hair thinning and fallout. The number of grey strands increased dramatically, changing her once silky soft hair to a dry and brittle texture. As I bear a resemblance to my mom, I have always hoped to age as gracefully as she has. So, it was important for me to seek expert advice for her on the adjustment of hair care products and supplements, to enjoy fuller and softer hair again.
The compilation of our anti-ageing feature in this edition of ESTETICA SA couldn’t have come at a better time. Cindy Horton Editor ESTETICA South Africa cindy.horton@topco.co.za
Happy Tresses will answer some of your many questions on ageing hair. Local stylists offer their expert advice on how to remain the free spirited 20 year old you still see yourself as, and get younger radiant hair. It is evident that no matter what our age, genetic make up or products we use, eventually we all have to deal with the ageing process. It is ultimately how we live our lives, care for our bodies and enrich the mind that will allow us to stay youthful and embrace our physical signs of wisdom. Happy living!
Cindy Horton
THE WORLD’S LEADING HAIR FASHION MAGAZINE
EVENTS Cosmoprof Bologna FASHION Dax Martin NEWS The First Toni & Guy Salon opens in South Africa
N° 18/12 EDITION
N° 10/10 EDITION
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TRENDS Colour palette FEATURE Men’s grooming techniques, styling tips and fashion trends INTERVIEW Rossano Ferretti Anthony Mascolo
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N° 2/08 AUTUMN
N° 14/11 EDITION
2012/06/15 1:45 PM
N° 7/09 EDITION
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EVENTS ghd revelations Sebastian: Road to Reinvention
Icons Vidal sassoon
FASHION Arise Cape Town Fashion Week
InterVIew Jane Maclaren-taylor
INTERVIEW Anthony Mascolo Dr Hair
round table Hair extensions
I N T E R V I E W S Willie Pietersen Jo Jordan Terence of Terenzo
A W A R D S Hairsense Autumn Harvest Matrix 35 mm of Fame
C O L L E C T I O N S Partners Hair Design Sebastian Professional Traitors of Privacy Global Salon Trends
AUTUMN APPEAL
THE WORLD’S LEADING HAIR FASHION MAGAZINE
CATWALK Fashion Power
EDUCATION Redken Symposium ghd: Craig Hopkins
EDUCATION Redken Symposium ghd: Craig Hopkins
DESIGN Pleasure through beauty
DESIGN Pleasure through beauty
EVENTS Professional Hair & Beauty Wella Trend Vision ACE Challenge Spring Collections
EVENTS Professional Hair & Beauty Wella Trend Vision ACE Challenge Spring Collections
N° 9/10 EDITION
N° 4/08 SPRING
N° 4/08 SPRING
N° 16/11 EDITION
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www.esteti ca.co.za
R E J U V E N AT I N G H A I R . . . B O D Y M I N D A N D S O U L
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EVENTS TREsemmé 24 Hour Body Collection
FEATURE Season for care
GREEN FEATURE Environmentally friendly hair care & beauty
RoUnd TAbLE Summer trends
INTERVIEW Derek Wong
1 6 TH E D I T I O N 2011
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SPRING INTO SUMMER
SPRING INTO SUMMER
C A P T I VAT I N G C O L O U R
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C A P T I VAT I N G C O L O U R
E V E N T S Paul Mitchell Big Hair Party ghd roadshow Great Lengths Sunflower Fundraiser
G L O B A L S A L O N B U S I N E S S A W A R D S Frank Fowden Hairstylists Gary Rom Hairdressing Jeauval Hair Salons Partners Hair Design
N° 4/08 SPRING
N° 8/09 EDITION
N° 3/08 WINTER
N° 1/08 SUMMER
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EVENTS Mondial Night of the Stars Trend Vision USA FASHION MasterCard Style in the City NEWS Be a Virtual Hairdresser 100 000 Years of Beauty
E D U C A T I O N Academy of Cosmetology
EDUCATION Redken Symposium ghd: Craig Hopkins
D I N N E R D E B A T E The influence of international trends on South Africa
DESIGN Pleasure through beauty
C O L L E C T I O N S Errol Douglas 2008 Jo Hansford Wella Trend Vision 2008
EVENTS Professional Hair & Beauty Wella Trend Vision
A W A R D S L’Oréal Colour Trophy
SUMMER SENSATIONS
I N S P I R AT I O N F O R T H I S S E A S O N
PURE COOL CHIC
PA R T Y S E A S O N WA R M S T H E H E A R T O F W I N T E R
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SPRING INTO SUMMER
C A P T I VAT I N G C O L O U R
CELEBRATING 6 YEARS IN HAIRDRESSING.
ESTETICA SOUTH AFRICA n. 23/2013
contents Published under licence from Estetica, Edizioni Esav srl, Turin/Italy PUBLISHER Ralf Fletcher PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Van Fletcher van.fletcher@topco.co.za EDITOR Cindy Horton cindy.horton@topco.co.za COPY-EDITOR Raisa Fisher raisa.fisher@topco.co.za CREATIVE DIRECTOR Emil Lime emil.p@topco.co.za BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER & ADVERTISING Lizel Jonker lizel.jonker@topco.co.za SUBSCRIPTION Ingrid Johnstone ingrid.johnstone@topco.co.za IMAGES www.shutterstock.com PRINTERS Paarl Media Paarl PUBLISHED BY Topco Media 2nd Floor Bree Street Studios 17 New Church Street Cape Town Ph: 086 000 9590 Fax: 021 423 7876 Email: info@estetica.co.za Website: www.estetica.co.za
ESTETICA INTERNATIONAL PUBLISHER & DIRECTOR Roberto Pissimiglia ESTETICA NETWORK EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Carla De Meo ESTETICA NETWORK EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Laura Castelli INTERNATIONAL EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Fatima Pilone INTERNATIONAL EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Ludovica Cavalli Carola Piazza EDITORIAL STAFF Sergi Bancells, Daniela Giambrone, Gary Kelly, Judith Lorenzon, Petra Weinzierl. ART DIRECTION Barbara Belletti LAYOUT Manuela Artosi, Paola Baratta, Davide Cardente LICENSING EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Erika Marchese LICENSING MANAGER Elena Flaugnatti SALES SUPERVISOR ITALY, FRANCE, GERMANY, POLAND, THE NETHERLANDS, SOUTH AFRICA, Emilio de’ Martino
Fashion Books Looks Beauty Beauty Trends Creativity Vision
London Men SS14 Knowing Kawaii Young and Restless Make-up Products Nifty New Niches Tarot Reading Mother Of Pearl
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MODA: INTERNATIONAL TRENDS Collection
Born in Naha
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Feature Youthful Tresses 60 Dossier Ready Remedies 62 Treatments Nature’s Bounty 66 Discussion Palmer, Gyapersad, Guilfoyle 68 Interview Cory Counts 72 Interview Karl-Heinz Pitsch 74 Interview Pedro Inchenko 76 Business Stop Diversion 78 Events Clubstar Creatives 80 Events Beauty Fantasia 82 Styling Summer Styling 84 Photoshoot Global Prestige 86 Advertorial Über 88 News Report 90 Products Reviews 92 Ad Index 94 Subscriptions 95 Stockists 96
Pastal colours dominate with shades of candyfloss, mint, bubble gum and all things nice.
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INTL spread 072513.pdf
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London Men SS14 Fudge is the Official Hair Partner for London Collections: Men SS14 and the team worked their magic to the delight of both the stylists and a captivated audience. Gary Kelly
10 fashion
create the vivid colour palette that I needed for my S/S14 print. I mixed sharp stripes of colour with vibrant streaks inspired by Nineties cycling tops and Brit pop sweaters. The boys in the Lou Dalton Show sported constrasting styles that were reminiscent of that textured, tousled, Art-studentesque bed head look that can take up to a week of neglect to create in the real world, but with the help of Fudge Textured Creative Styling Dust can be knocked out in a matter of minutes! Katie Eary's collection, Flamingo Massacres, took inspirations from Irvine Welsh's seminal novel, Maribou Stalk Nighmares. Working closely with Katie, lead stylist, Ben Jones decided to re-invent
James Long
James Long
J
ohn Vial, Fudge's Creative Director, led a team which created a a portfolio of runway looks for Spring/ Summer 2014 that ranged from the classic military cut through to clubstyle electro glitter blast! Erring toward the more conventionally masculine was the helmet-head style which featured in the James Long show. This was super slick, shiny and clean, motivated by Italian cyclists and which John Vial described as Hairodynamic! The collection featured a print that James Long and his team designed in collaboration with Fudge, inspired by Paintbox. James said: “The plethora of colours in the Fudge Paintbox collection meant that I could
the sharp 70s centre-parting in order to create 'curtains'. For that ultra-oily finish Ben smoothed Fudge Hot Hed Style Whip over the hair before brushing it down with a touch of Hair Varnish for extreme shine. Possibly the most talked-about hair statements at The London Collections: Men SS14 was the club-style glitter-head looks that Fudge's Creative Director, John
Sibling
Katie Eary
Christopher Shannon
Lou Dalton
Vial, created for Christopher Shannon. Christopher drew inspiration for the collection from the birth of the super club scene and the electric, vibrant aesthetic that accompanied it. The collection celebrated the anything-goes era of Liverpool and Manchester clubs. John said: “When Christopher Shannon was a kid going out to clubs in Liverpool and Manchester he always wanted to dress up and stand out. A cheap way of doing this was a little glitter spray. So, we took inspiration from Christopher’s love of glitter and the super club scene, completely covering the model’s heads in coloured glitter and finishing it off with our Glitter Blast hair spray.” The looks created for the runway were done to compliment the collections, but this being London, they could even be worn around town without turning too many heads!
Above: Prep hair by painting Fudge Hair Varnish Shine Wax on with a tint brush and layer it up to create a sticky base. Then, apply Fudge Glitter Blast spray to the hair, graduating towards the end of the hair.
Above: Fudge Hot Hed Style Whip was smoothed over hair and flattened into the scalp to hold the hair in shape.
photo
Looks created for the runway and trending on the streets of London.
C
Cute cats. Pink and pastels. Big eyes and plasticperfect. Find out exactly where this culture comes from in a new book on Kawaii.
ute. Lovable. Adorable. Kawaii is all this and more – trendsetting, innocent and desirable. Outside of Japan, the best-known example of the tradition of Kawaii is arguably Hello Kitty, but this is just a small part of the story. Recent years have seen the fame of this Japanese cultural phenomenon spread throughout the world, rapidly becoming absorbed into the international psyche. However, the concept behind the culture has remained a mystery to most non-Japanese people – until today. A new book from author, Manami Okazaki, and photographer, Geoff Johnson, promises to reveal all. Kawaii! Japan’s culture of cute
Knowing Kawaii
Kawaii! Japan’s Culture of Cute Manami Okazaki and Geoff Johnson by Prestek 224 pages with 240 colour illustrations.
(published by Prestel) explores current Kawaii culture by first tracing its roots in Harajuku (a district of Tokyo which led Japanese fashion trends in the 1970s), Sanrio (the Japanese market leader company in Kawaii products) and girls’ Shõjo manga. Back in the 1970s, Japanese schoolgirls rebelled against traditional writing styles by coming up with their own form of handwriting. By using mechanical pencils to produce lateral writing, they created fine lines and rounded characters (as opposed to the original vertical arrangement of thick graphics and fine characters) which they then personalised with smiley faces and hearts. School authorities banned this new fashion, but it was too late – Kawaii-mania had begun. The new cute writing style was adopted by comics and magazines and gradually infiltrated all other forms of media and merchandising. Thus today, Kawaii characters can be found everywhere, in all aspects of life – from architecture, to food, to public services. It’s not all sunshine and cheeriness. As the book’s authors point out, Kawaii also has a dark side, with Gothic versions and alternative formats. However, little-girl cute characters remain the most popular – so much so that the Japanese markets often prove to be globally counter-trend, as shown when they rejected both the Barbie doll and Cabbage Patch dolls, because of their ‘non-cute’ features. Talking about or describing the movement is nowhere near as effective as actually showing it in action and this book does just that, with 240 fabulous photos and illustrations of Kawaii brought to life – in food, on consumer products and outside, live on the streets.
Find cuteness everywhere – it's a huge industry. More than fashion – Kawaii to be worn, eaten and lived.
Kawaii – conquering the world with sweet, innocent cuteness. books
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Sam Villa, Founding Partner of the Sam Villa® brand and Education Artistic Director for Redken 5th Avenue, needs no introduction here. His title and popularity speak for themselves. Thanks for taking time out for our VIP looks, Sam!
Taylor Kinney
10 cut 0 t1 fi t u o e 10 l y t s l
tota0 1 k o lo
Young & restless “Taylor is a man’s man. He doesn’t have to try to hard to look great...”
A couple days of facial growth and simple natural hair always works on an ultra masculine man. What I love about this look is the straight forwardness that blends very well with his nonconformist wardrobe for the red carpet. He doesn’t have to try to hard, so he should never be over-styled. I would not change a thing with his hair style or colour. This modern Caesar is a perfect style for Taylor's oval face and the 5 o’clock shadow helps to balance out his forehead...the grey hair lends the sex appeal. To style, I would simply smooth wet towel dried hair with a brush and work Redken for Men polish up pomade into hands to warm and distribute evenly through out hair for added shine and control. When you’ve got it, it shows. Photos: Getty Images
Carly Rae Jepsen
Full Frontal Fringe! I LOVE this look Carly's fringe is perfect for her long face shape. It helps to bring the attention to her eyes. The soft ends and long layers give Carly a fresh look from her blunt edges of last year! Her hair colour change from dark brown to cinnamon red absolutely suits her pale skin tone better and brightens her face. The eye make-up makes her blue eyes pop because the shadow is a similar colour to her hair. It’s very complimentary. This low-layered cut gives her double identity, as it looks casually polished and moves when worn down, yet the length allows for a multitude of styling options, including up-styles. Her black dress with see through panels and sculpted cut outs is fun, yet sophisticated enough to elevate her style status from a one hit wonder to someone with staying power.
10 t u c t8 fi t u o 10 e l y st
l a t o t .3 9 k loo
This award-winning singer-songwriter shows her staying power time and again. looks
15
Style, class & quality comes together...
JHB office Tel: +27(0)11 839 0009/10/12 Fax: +27(0)11 839 0015 Email: anver@headquarters.co.za info@headquarters.co.za Durban office: +27(0)31 312 5680 Email: durban@headquarters.co.za Find us on: Head Quarters_SA
Frank Ocean
As eccentric and explicit as Frank's R&B lyrics may be, his elegant look here is just the opposite. This classic short crop works great with his facial hair in helping to shorten the appearance of his long-shaped face and even compensates for the appearance of his somewhat pointed chin. It would be very interesting to see him do something a bit more adventurous in the future. The good news for him is that there is not much styling product needed for this cut. Frank decided to opt for the easy way out! With a look like this, I would advise getting regular trims to keep it looking polished with clean edges. Although I am not a big fan of bow ties, I think that Frank pulls this one off with style. The finely striped pattern almost looks like an optical illusion – a style that pushes the limits befitting of a talented musician from New Orleans.
7 cut t8 fi t u o e9 l y t s
l a t o t 8 k o lo
This criticallyacclaimed ghostwriter finally found fame on his own terms. looks
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Catrice
Pastel Power Essence
Catrice
Milky delights
Create a deliciously glossy pout with the Catrice Infinite Lip Gloss 05. Tip Top Nails CandyLand range nail polish and matching glitter duos in Bubblegum Bliss and Watermelon Sherbet. Add some pastel sparkle to the eyes with Essence Mono Eyeshadow Peppermint Ice Cream or Strawberry Ice Cream. Essie’s Summer Collection, Full Steam Ahead and Rock The Boat, will brighten up any day. Decorate your nails with ice cream flavour colours like Essence Colour & Go That’s What I Mint. Get candy floss coated nails with Catrice 21 nail polish.
Tip Top
Essence
Essie
Catwalk: Gavin Rajah Image: SDR Photography
Pastel colours dominate with shades of candyfloss, mint,bubble gum and all things nice. make-up
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Enter the ESTETICA digital world. The future is now!
WEB www.estetica.co.za
SOCIAL MEDIA www.facebook.com/ Esteticasouthafrica
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www.twitter.com/ @Estetica_SA
2013/08/21 9:15 AM
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Smooth away the signs of ageing to reveal a youthful you.
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Comfort Zone Glorious Skin Visible Lifting Tensor Mask tones and relaxes the skin to assist in the reduction of expression lines and reoxygenation of the tissues. Chanel Le Jour, La Nuit and Le Weekend is a programme that will reactivate, recharge and renew the skin to exceptional quality. Beaucience for Men Cleansing Masque stimulates the metabolism of new cell formulation while drawing impurities out of the skin for a smoother complexion. Paula’s Choice Resist Retinol Skin Smoothing Body Treatment utilises a specialised retinol complex, potent antioxidants, and skin repairing ingredients to intensively smooth and firm skin. Plump and smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles with Nip+Fab Frown Fix Instant Line Filler. DMK Fiberblast C stimulates Fibroblast Cells to manufacture collagen and restore skin’s youthfulness. The Comfort Zone Renight Recover Cream is a rich night cream with antioxidant and protective actions for dehydrated, depleted and stressed skin. The soap free Optiphi Facial Cleanser with Salicylic Acid gently removes impurities from the skin, thereby improving the skins ability to allow penetration of actives. The Placecol Multi Vitamin Facial Wash contains concentrated natural extracts and vitamins to stimulate tissue regeneration and help promote natural DNA repair. A total anti-ageing serum from Decléor, Aromessence Excellence is a synergy of Essential Oils to act on all the signs of time.
Beaucience
Anti-ageing remedies
Placecol Optiphi
Chanel
Comfort Zone
Stop time
21
beauty
D
id one size ever really fit all? The idea that gender and gener ation don’t matter is a modern myth. Today, hairdressers specialise, catering to sharply defined niche markets. Whether they be kids' cuts, bridal consultants or what used to be a mere 'barber shop', today anyone can find a specialist to fit the bill. At the top of the list: the mature, chic woman.
Nifty new niches link
In a generic world, we long to be treated as originals. Savvy hairdressers respond with specialisation. Now, more than ever, our hair is our identity. Victoria Thomas
FIFTY MORE SHADES OF GREY
Model Yasmina Rossi breaks two taboos at once. Not only does she wear her glorious mane natural silver-white; she also wears it super-long. Oops, make that three, no, four taboos: Rossi also cuts her own hair, and doesn’t have a hairdresser. She remembers her first white hair at age 12, and has never looked back. Would this work for everyone? Gina Khan, San Franciscobased educator and spokesperson for Matrix Logics Colors, cautions against extremes. “Age can be a great liberation, but at all costs avoid what I called the ‘zipper’ – that white seam of roots down the parting of dark, dyed hair,” she warns. She also recommends soft, face-framing layers, keeping attention above the shoulder as body parts naturally travel south with each passing decade. Diana Lewis Jewell, author of Going Gray, Looking Great and founder of Café-Gray.com, a sorority for the silver-tressed, adds “Going grey can help a woman discover new energy and vitality. The transition does require that you re-think your make-up, because silver, pewter and ivory are actual colours. Suddenly, you may be able to wear a shade of aqua-turquoise, or a brilliant purple, or red, or a pastel that simply never worked when you had dark hair.”
STEER CLEAR OF THE COVEN Above: Photographs for "Going Gray, Looking Great" by Peter Reed Right: Photo of Yasmina Rossi by Armel Vittini Rossi
Manhattan-based maestro, Carmine Minardi, however, defends a woman’s right to keep on colouring. “Whether it works often depends on your skin and eye-colour,” he says. “Darker skin and darker eyes need more lowlights, and more
Uber-stylist, Ted Gibson, opened his upscale Braid Bar in Fort Lauderdale this summer, and salons everywhere are embracing elegant interpretations of three-and four-strand plaiting. Sam Villa’s Love Child collection braids a soft, boho 'headband'. Master stylist, Moulay Yacoubi of Pierre Michel Salon in Manhattan, adds a regal feel to celebrity (and other) coifs using horizontal braided sections which form a 'crowned' effect.
Cornrows, fishtails and waterfalls, s’il vous plait
Sam Villa, Geneva Cowen
'Hairdressing archeologist' and senior stylist at Studio 921 Salon in Baltimore, MD, Janet Stephens creates elaborate, but weightless styles by sewing the hair in place as the Romans did. Great hairdressing and cutting-edge trends often make just such a nod to the past, and nowhere is this truer than in braids – that can range from rural to regal, composed to chaotic. Check out Janet's popular YouTube channel featuring tutorials on historic hairdressing. She advises: “If you have naturally skinny hair and want a fatter braid, plump it up by mini-crimping your hair first.”
Tip from Patrick McIvor, Artistic Director Goldwell®/ KMS® California: For hold, mist braids with KMS® California HAIRSTAY® anti-humidity seal. Robert Brown, Goldwell® North American Artistic Team
HOT FOR FALL: THE NEW BRAID
Beyond Heidi’s pigtails
Aveda for Kimberly Ovitz AW13
pepper than salt.” He adds violet tones to keep yellowing at bay, and suggests, “Avoid looking witchy, unless that’s your thing.” Nancy Braun, celebrity stylist for L’Oreal and owner of Balayage by Nancy salon in Beverly Hills, is known for what she calls 'a sun-kissed look', a luminous sunburst around the face, created with layers which accentuate the eyes and cheekbones. She weaves radiant colour through grey, so that you still have some pigmentation.
With monochromatic pale skin and pale hair, you may start to resemble a big powderedsugar donut. Claudio Lazo, owner of C The Salon in Studio City, California and Trend Aficionado for Wella, champions hair like Yasmina Rossi’s, with two big ‘Ifs’. “If the hair is in good condition, shoulder-length is way sexier than any pixie-cut. When your hair gets to be 75 percent or more percent silver or white, back off on the colouring and allow Nature to take its course.”
Sam Villa
Sam Villa, Geneva Cowen
At a certain point, you just have to come to terms with your grey. Good news: the move into silver and white can be elegant.
got milkmaids? trends
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His signature touch, worthy of Moroccan royalty: pinning the braid with a sparkling vintage brooch - perfect for the coming holiday season.
RECKLESSNESS, RISK, REGRET
The Three R’s of permanent body modification such as tattoos, piercings and microdermal implants. According to Dennis Joseph, World Educator for BaByliss Pro, a growing segment of the population seeks the thrill without the commitment. Detroit-based Joseph is a master of what’s called the 'hair tattoo', a design shaved into a portion of the hair. Not to be confused with another more literal kind of hair tattoo, scalp micropigmentation, which is where a balding man’s head is inked with tiny dots suggesting
Artists like Michaela Bean for Hair Salvation of Brooklyn, NY make extreme effects wearable, like this edgy, yet femme do.
The hair tattoo Dennis Joseph BaByliss Pro
Dennis Joseph BaByliss Pro
Introducing a shaved motif into your haircut: awesome head-rush. long-departed hair follicles. History suggests that this wearable art form emerged in the urban barbershops of African-American and Latino communities, where young sports fans would have team logos 'carved' into the sides of a close-cut natural fade. From there, the concept has skyrocketed, especially among women. Joseph teaches the technique as a national platform artist for BaByliss Pro, and explains that the hair tattoo appeals “…to anyone who wants to express themselves. We view
hair as the ultimate accessory and fashion statement. Because it’s hair, you can change that statement easily. It grows out.” Joseph’s hair tattoo begins with a consultation, identifying boundaries so that there is no remorse later. If you’ve just been fired, or are freshly rebounding from a break-up, he suggests a cooling-off period of a week or two, because he says, “Sometimes the urge passes by the next full moon.” Once the client is in the chair, his key tool is the BaByliss Ferrari X-2 clipper, which gets its power from a Ferrari-made engine. For fine shading, he then traces through the design with a trimmer. Other practitioners of this hair art simply use water and an exceptionally sharp straightrazor. Celebrity portraits, gaming heroes, comic book characters, flags, mottos and local sports insignia are specialties for some, often highlighted with brilliant tinting. As with ink, placement is key. Many clients come to Joseph for a 'stealth' tattoo: an undercover tatt which may easily be hidden under a longer top-side. This comes in handy if you have a legit day-job. The stealth tatt allows you to sweep your camouflage layers down into a straight-arrow pony or bob while on the clock. Once you punch out, your alter-ego is free to emerge. Joseph explains that while men generally favour an angular style with centered elements, he tends toward wavy, softer curved forms on an asymmetrical base for women. “Miley, Rihanna and lots of other recording artists have really brought this art form into the mainstream for women,” he says. “There is something incredibly fresh and hot about
Sal Misseri
Kevin Gatto, owner of Philly’s Verde Salon, suggests that guys master a few basic blow-dryer moves for an unfussy, but groomed look, which seems to come naturally. He says, “I can definitely speak from personal experience that my own morning ritual includes drying my hair with our FHI Heat Global Professional Nano Ionic Styling Dryer that makes my hair feel thicker and fuller.” He recommends the FHI Heat Global Professional Volumizing Iron to create a more polished and finished look. In general, the experts advise that guys go easy on product for the most contemporary expression of manhood. Anthony Cole, Sebastian Professional, advises, “When it comes to styling, one of my go-to’s for men is Sebastian Professional Texturizer. I also use pomades, such as Sebastian Professional Craft Clay and Shine Crafter. These two can even be cocktailed together.” What to aim for: a fusion of classic gentleman’s polish with the raw testosterone of rock ‘n roll. If your hair looks good, but remains immobile in high winds, you’re using too much product. If you avoid high winds altogether, because you’re afraid a little breeze will ruin your image, you need a new haircut. Carruthers (who is a fan of 'big, burly beards') advises that men “choose a silhouette with movement. You want your hair to be kinetic, dynamic and ready for adventure. You’re a man, not a mannequin.”
Guy Auclair
All photos this page: NAHA Men's Category Finalists. Courtesy of PBA
Eric Fisher
Andrew Carruthers
seeing the nape of a woman’s neck, exposed and decorated. In some cultures, it’s considered the most erotic of the erogenous zones.” Andrew Carruthers, Director of Education for Sam Villa and co-owner of Lunatic Fringe Sugarhouse salon in Salt Lake City, UT says expansively, “We are in a new era of manliness. Real men with real haircuts.” While Jon Hamm in Mad Men and Leo DiCaprio in Gatsby serve as current icons of male glamour, men look their best when they’re comfortable enough to be imperfect. We deeply want to believe that all it takes is a cake of soap and a cup of strong coffee for Don Draper to look that good, even though we know better. On its way out: gel. Just sayin’.
POWER-TOOLS FOR MEN
Primping is for poodles on a short leash. Male hair deserves an occasional walk on the wild side - since men can never be fully domesticated.
Totally dude! trends
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video
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The age-old mystique of hair, whether the ominous Medusa, Samson’s legendary strength, the windswept tresses of Botticelli’s Venus, or Nick Pagano’s Major Arcanum. Marie Scarano
hen photographer Morgan Miller and stylist Marciano challenged Nick Pagano with a theme of Tarot Cards for a new collection photo shoot, he got right on it, designing ad hoc coifs for each personage of the Major Arcanum. However, not having consulted the cards themselves, little could this team have known that greater forces were at work to thwart their best-laid plans. Storm warnings were already in place for the second day of the two-day shoot as the now legendary Hurricane Sandy was gaining strength and poised to wreak havoc and destruction. Everything was being cancelled as people barricaded themselves indoors and businesses boarded up their windows, bracing themselves for the onset of the powerful winds and torrential rains. Not to be deterred by mere acts of God, the artists prepared to do what had to be done. With just three female and two male models showing up, Nick
Tarot Reading Hair: Nick Pagano Producer: Severine Manuel Photo: Morgan Miller Make-up: David Timbolla@MC2 Stylist: Marciano Ramirez Post-production: Katya Polyakova Products: Goldwell & KMS California
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and make-up artist, David Timbolla, improvised techniques to transform the faces - and even demeanor - of this scanty cast, working through the night until 4:30 in the morning to finish the shoot. The result is this somewhat whimsical, yet meaningful, hair fashion collection of Tarot Cards, demonstrating once again how appearances can often be deceiving, yet can also reveal new facets of our personality – both to others and ourselves - and our evolution from the past, into the present, and on into the future. In fact, the meaning of each of these cards is ambiguous, and must be interpreted within a specific context and according to its relationship with other cards in the spread. Mmmm, much as a professional hairdresser would recommend a certain colour, cut, or style for a client based on his interpretation of her age, skin colour, facial features, lifestyle, and personality. As in a Tarot reading – the art of the hairdresser can convey a message about who we are, where we are going, and what we are doing in our lives. There is no real magic or mystery involved. It's all in a day's work behind the chair.
The Tarot reveal the past, present, future – much as hair fashion does!
The ambition to recreate the reflective floating colours of the Mother of Pearl on hair, has given rise to a collection of simple and versatile cuts, illuminated by shades that enliven the hair with unpredictable flashes.
Mother of Pearl
“Once again the genesis of the Davines collection starts from the desire to create a beauty that can surprise without artifice.�
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“Mother of Pearl is an endless variation of light and colour, flowing and mixing liberally yet remains motionless.”
The Mother of Pearl is a hard stonelike substance, clad with multiple mirrors. A pure collection of class and creative colours, that softly blends into naturals for a surprisingly beautiful look yet extraordinarily different.
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White commuting into moss green, astonishingly mixing with soft pink, turns suddenly mint green, blending with yellow, transforming into salmon, merging again with white and again in an endless, colourful game.
“Hairstyles are finally enhanced thanks to the use of the new Davines styling line more inside, developed with the help of Angelo Seminara.� vision
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“A perfect synergy between Flamboyage and the six new nuances of the Ammonia free permanent colour line, A New Colour Pure Colour.�
Artistic Direction: Angelo Seminara International Creative Colour Ambassador: Edoardo Paludo Photographer: Andrew O’Toole Make-up Artist: Mel Arter @ CLM Nails: Mike Pockock @ CLM Stylist: Niccolò Torelli
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