N° 19/12 EDITION
19
THE WORLD’S LEADING HAIR FASHION MAGAZINE
LOOKS Wonder Women FEATURE Salon Décor, Design and Equipment INTERVIEWS David Gillson
1 9 TH E D I T I O N 2012
R58.95 19/12 cover layout19.indd 1
2012/08/21 12:48 PM
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E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 00
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E D I T O R I A L
See Tribute to Vidal page 39
FOREVER, VIDAL! The passing of hairstyling legend, Vidal Sassoon, marked a sad day for the hairdressing industry. A living legend for as long as he was with us and unforgettable now that he looks down upon us from above. Vidal Sassoon was credited with creating a simple geometric, ‘Bauhaus-inspired’ hairstyle, also called the wedge bob.
Due to the popularity of his styles he was described as a craftsman who ‘changed the world with a pair of scissors’. His style and popularity allowed him to open the first chain of worldwide hair styling salons. Unfortunately his illness got the better of him. Last February, on Facebook, his message reached fans worldwide: “Life is precious and I’m enjoying every moment of it. Every moment of it”. The world of hairdressing, and others, have flooded the web with images, memories, dedications and thoughts. ESTETICA SA has dedicated this edition to the late legend and included a tribute, pages 39-45, to honour his legacy. Hairstylists from around the world share their special moments, stories and experiences of working, meeting or being inspired by him. Another must-read in this edition is the Salon Décor, Design and Equipment feature on pages 87-107. Choosing the correct lighting, basins, chairs, décor and trying to maximise your space when designing a salon is no small task. In this feature, ESTETICA SA addresses the important issues salon owners are faced with when designing or renovating a salon. Read up on exclusive interviews with top local stylists about conceptualising and designing a salon and the mistakes incurred along the way. Let us take inspiration from Vidal Sassoon’s lifes work and all he achieved by trying to implement his words as a motto in your salon: “If you don’t look good, we don’t look good!”
Cindy Horton Editor
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Salon: Mahogany Hairdressing Hair: Colin Greaney, International Creative Director Colour: Tai Walker & Michalla Ryder Photography: Andrew Ogilvy Make-up: Rosie Scott Clothes styling: Chloe Holland Products: Schwarzkopf Professional
C O N T E N T
ESTETICA FASHION N°. 19/12 – NINETEENTH EDITION 2012
Published under licence from Estetica, Edizioni Esav srl, Turin/Italy Published by Topco Media 2nd Floor Bree Street Studios 17 New Church Street Cape Town Ph: 086 000 9590 Fax: 021 423 7876 Email: info@estetica.co.za Website: www.estetica.co.za STAFF Publisher Richard Fletcher General Manager Van Fletcher Editor Cindy Horton Sub-Editor Shaheema Albertyn-Burton Design Jayne Macé Advertising & Business Development Manager Lizel Jonker Subscriptions ingrid.johnstone@topco.co.za CONTRIBUTORS Printers Paarl Media Paarl
contents 19.indd 2
Androgyynous styles contradict soft pastel tones and innocent side parting for an ethereal texture. FASHION
8 Catwalks
Dream Journeys
12 Catwalks
Cape Town Fashion Week
14 History
Olympic Looks
18 Campaign
Iconic Decades
20 Looks
Wonder Women
24 Interiors
Over the Rainbow
27 Beauty
Women
29 Beauty
Men
30 Trends
Easily Gorgeous
34 Vision
Holy Chic
2012/08/20 9:17 AM
12
Everything seems fairly-like. Even the hair, first scraped with pink, then enchained by unruly, slighty hippy waves. MODA:
INTERNATIONAL
TRENDS
PROFESSIONAL
39 Vidal Sassoon Tribute
87 Feature
Salon DĂŠcor, Design and Equipment
46 Looking Good
88 Dossier
Salon Feng Shui
50 Living Colour
92
Retail
Boosting Aftercare
54 Urban Vibe
98
Interview
Shelene Shaer
58 The College Way
100 Interview
Frank Fowden
62 Fashion Notes
102 Interview
David Gillson
66 Before the Storm
104 Survey
Tooling Around
70 Rebel Rebel
108 Advertorial
Sharplines
74 Deep Inspired
109 Event
Masked Launch
78 Warrior Glam
110 Event
Styling Champs
82 Movie Divas
112 Focus
Reality Shoots
114 Agenda
Calendar
119 Advertorial
no!no!
120 News
Report
124 Products
Reviews
127 Subscriptions 128 Stockists
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2012/08/20 9:18 AM
Dream
Journeys Nomadic journeys and Judy Garland are just a few of the things inspiring New York designers for Fall. Abandon yourself to your alter-ego. Experiment with a new you.
Jeremy Scott
Bright and sparkling with wildly coloured hair or rigid black with slicked-back hair and bushy ponytails. The only rule is there are no rules.
D
by Kendall Farr
KNY’s fall collection may have been “inspired by the Beat Generation” but the look was quintessentially 21st century New York. Tailoring with leather trims worn with narrow creased trousers, flirty leather skirts and dark floral prints added to the hard-edged refinement. “The DKNY collection is always a great barometer of New York style,” says Eugene Souleiman, WELLA Global Creative Director who completed the forecast with a base of glossy, pin straight hair, deeply side-parted and drawn into low ponytails. To complement the collection’s clean shapes, says Souleiman, “We gave the hair very straight edges and kept it flat to the head, for a small silhouette.” Peter Som delivered a collection filled with sex appeal and strong, strict shapes for confident women. The subtle reveal of sheer banded organza dresses juxtaposed sculptural jackets and tops with exaggerated drop shoulders worn with body hugging bottoms. “I wanted a precision and crispness,” explains Som. “Everyone wants to feel strong and sexy.” The tension between sex appeal and restraint was evident in Souleiman’s side parted styles. Long hair was made small and sleek at the crown and sides and moved into a textured and wild fullness at the ends. Ponytails were sleek to the head with full tails. Som’s message: strong shapes for strong women. At Jeremy Scott, the models wore sweat suits and body con dresses and leggings printed with Sharp tailoring and computer screens and IM emoticons. The plot? That the leather trims make for present is the past is the present. Since style is a sleek and sexy looks. mash-up of new and old imagery that’s filtered through a Google search, you might as well throw on a candy coloured print and get on with your day. “I was inspired by 3D, geometry and technology. I wanted the girls to look like their own computer Avatars,” says Soueliman. The result: wigs cut with hyper sharp edges, short bangs and flouro-bright splashes of colour that enhanced the multi–hued palette of Scott’s collection. Peter Som
DKNY
c a t w a l k s
photooniPad Wella artists came up with absolute contrast for very different collections. From sleek heads and wild ponytails for strong women, highlighting the tension between sex appeal and restraint.
Wild wigs with blunt cuts and fluorescent colours matched the other-worldly and more whimsical looks by Jeremy Scott.
Jeremy Scott
Peter Som
Jeremy Scott
DKNY
Photos for Peter Som backstage: Gerardo Somoza
Catwalk photos: IMAXtree.com/Vincenzo Grillo
ESTETICASOUTHAFRICA|9
Mara Hoffman Chris Benz
Mara Hoffman
Vivienne Tam
Mara Hoffman
C A T W A L K S
Vivienne Tam
Fetherston
Channel your inner Judy Garland and take a journey to a far-off land. 4D journeys
According to designer Chris Benz “women have come back around to the art of dressing up” as they did in the late 50s and 60s. His muse? His mother as he remembers her getting dressed while watching Judy Garland on television, inspiring the shirtdresses with prim bows, cigarette pants and sweater girl cardigans he showed on the runway. To interpret his theme, TIGI’S Nick Irwin started with acrylic wigs he transformed into deconstructed beehives, perfect for the modern girl who wants to go clubbing in a bouffant update. Mysticism inspires Mara Hoffman to create breezy shapes in her signature screenprints - this time around with meteorite patterns and tapestry motifs. Wide brimmed Gaucho hats worn over headscarves advanced the southwestern look. Imagining the ‘shaman cowboys’ that inspired the clothes, Irwin center-parted the hair and hand coiled it into tight pin curls. Then, back brushing the coils created the kind of big, Bohemian-looking curl a girl can only get after a wild horse ride through the desert. Vivienne Tam’s designs reference an eclectic mix of textures and patterns and for fall, her outerwear in carpet prints worn over jewel toned, satin evening looks were all inspired by an adventuress on a Mongolian journey. To capture her nomad spirit, Irwin designed a style with a deep center part, straightened from root to jaw line. Back-brushing the hair from jaw line to ends created a windblown texture and a statement–making volume. “It perfectly captured the east-meets-west spirit of the collection,” he adds. So this Fall, we’ll dress up to embrace our inner 60s-era housewife (again). We’ll wear pieces inspired by desert-dwelling ‘Shaman Gauchos’ and glamorouslooking nomads climbing in the Himalayas. One cohesive trend emerged: anything goes. What helps define the look of a fashion collection however, is hairstyling, that unifies the designer’s narrative with the silhouettes and the teams from WELLA and TIGI worked styling magic for many of the week’s hottest shows creating directional looks worth imitating.
Time travel and globalism inspired the TIGI team to create eclectic coifs for three very different shows. Deconstructed vintage, futuristic Bohemian, and east-meets-west. E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 11
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Catwalk
Trends
Philosophy
Rosenwerth
Hairstylists from ghd styled up a storm at this year’s Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Cape Town. Ponytails, soft waves and fishtail plaits set the trend for the summer season.
fashion week ct 19.indd 2
I
Selfi
nternational hair fashion brand ghd ensured all models were styled to perfection at the recent Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Cape Town (MBFWCT), following the announcement of their three year partnership with AFI. Jennifer Chatburn, ghd Regional Educator and one of the lead stylists at MBFWCT, says the traditional ponytail has made a contemporary comeback for Spring/Summer 2013. “This classic was reinterpreted by keeping it sleek, adding defined twists, twirling the pony into a chignon very low down in the neck or creating messy curls to add volume and texture.” To get the Rosenworth and Philosophy look, section and curl the hair with a ghd Gold Classic styler using large sections which have been prepared using ghd Style Curl Hold Spray. Soften the curls by turning the head upside-down and shaking out the curls, pulling your fingers through the hair. Create the ponytail by softly twisting four sections together and fastening loosely, keeping the ponytail soft and low. Pull out a few pieces to make the look slightly messy, gently rouging the pony and securing with ghd Style Final Fix Hairspray. This look was tweaked for the Selfi, August and Black Coal shows by adding a more defined twist on the side. “Other trends coming through on the catwalk for The traditional ponytail Craig Port and Thula Sindi were strong, combed out has made a waves rather than curls as well as a new age version contemporary comeback. of the 60s beehive for Michelle Ludek,” says Shawn Nicholas, Co-Owner of Synergy Hair Intercoiffure. “This look added volume to the sides rather than the top, refreshing the style and giving it an updated feel. Fishtail plaits were seen at the Lalesso show while the classic bob for KlûK CGDT owed its volume and staying power to the new ghd salon strength hair dryer, ghd air.”
2012/08/20 12:03 PM
Lalesso
Rosenwerth
Thula Sindi
C A T W A L K S
Peter Jensen
Michelle Ludek
ack.
ghd stylists created romantically inspired hairstyles. Soft curls and low ponytails featured in most shows.
Catwalk photos: SDR Photography
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E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 13
2012/08/20 12:03 PM
Olympic
looks
One hundred years of Olympics have marked the history of sport, revealing an evolution in looks. In these photos we can see how customs have changed. Iconic Athletes
Sport, energy, strength. All alphamale elements. But also all good reasons for women in the early twentieth century to get keen on athleticism. Relying on their own strength in their own work and demonstrating this strength in their look. Shorter hair for practical reasons but also a sign of a new femininity, all-conscious and free.
1908
LONDON Danish gymnast
1936
BERLIN Swimming champions: K. Rawls, M. Hoerger Champion Diver, L. Kight and E. Kompa
1908
LONDON Danish gymnasts
1928
1924
AMSTERDAM Martha Norelius, Olympic Gold 400m Freestyle
PARIS Florence Chambers
1912
STOCKHOLM R. D. Clarke and Craig Moore
1936
BERLIN Jack Lovelock, Gold Medal for the 1 500 metres
14| E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A
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H I S T O r Y
photooniPad
1924
1936
Berlin Four American athletes
Chamonix Herma Planck-Szabo, Women’s Figure Skating Gold Medal
1948
London Olympics Opening Ceremony
1968
Grenoble American figure skater Peggy Fleming, Gold Medal
1964 1948
London Back row: P. H. A. Rennard, D. Smith and D. Hay. Front row: coach Pollard, C. Bell and I. Hurst
Tokyo Vera Caslavska, Gold Medal in the Individual Beam Competition, T. Manina and L. Latynina Mexico City US sprinter John Carlos
1968
1968
Mexico City Czech Vera Caslavska on the beam. She won four Gold Medals
1940
Tokyo The Games were cancelled and did not go to Tokyo until 1964
1996
Atlanta Jamie Baulch in action in the 4x400m
Athletes and Olympics. Icons in global evolution, from the early twentieth century to the present day: an unusual collective view.
1976
Montreal D. Nightingale, A. Parker, A. Archibald and S. J. Fox, Gold Medal in the Modern Pentathlon
1976
This desire for short hair became less intense as time went on, giving way to neat waves in the Fifties, irregular updo’s in the Sixties, right up to the totally free Afro-pride of the early Seventies. It wasn’t till the Nineties that more unequivocal hairstyles arrived – showing how an athlete is also a person, even more, a celebrity. Hair-fashion compensates for the imposition of standardised outfits. Sport goes glam.
1976
Montreal Nadia Comaneci on the balance beam, three Gold Medals
Innsbruck Dorothy Hamill in the center, Gold Medal skating competition
1984
los Angeles
Carl Lewis, Gold Medal Men’s Long Jump
1996
Atlanta The USA 4x100 Relay Team, Gold Medal
H I S T O r Y
2000
Sydney Marion Jones, Women’s 100m Heats
2008 2000 Beijing
Melaine Walker, Gold for the Women’s 400m Hurdles
Sydney
Audley Harrison, Gold in the Men’s 91kg Boxing
1996
1996
Atlanta
Eunice Barber
Atlanta
Gail Devers, Women’s 100m Heats
2004 Athens
2004 Athens
Matthew Elias, Men’s 4x400m Relay Final
2000
Sydney M. Raquil with J. Baulch, Men’s 4x400m Relay Final
2012
London Olympics Who will be the Olympics look icon this summer?
Photos: Getty Images
Phillips Idowu, Men’s Triple Jump
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 17
Iconic
Decades
Ray-Ban celebrates their 75th anniversary with a legendary campaign. Seven photographs capture iconic moments in time, inspired by ordinary people.
R
ay-Ban Legends tells the history and the spirit of 75 years of Never Hide: the courage to be yourself and freely express your beliefs and personality. Shot by photographer Mark Seliger in California at the end of January, the campaign frames seven legendary moments (one per decade), each inspired by a real life and particularly iconoclastic figure. “My first pair of sunglasses was Ray-Bans. So when they approached me to shoot the 75th anniversary campaign, it seemed like the ultimate creative dream,” says Mark. “It was one of those opportunities that don’t come around too often, and I really enjoyed being a part of the creative team. Our Creative Director Erik Vervroegen proposed scenarios that were photographic, iconic, controversial and fun, and it seemed like the perfect fit for what I do and what the Ray-Ban brand represents,” continues Mark. In keeping with the Never Hide spirit, the seven figures unconsciously broke through barriers; their eyes were open while the world’s were closed. A group of pilots, the Blue Devils, in the 1930s; a writer’s ‘relationship’ in the heart of America in the 1940s; a singer songwriter who worked with Elvis Presley in the 1950s; an English socialite in the 1960s; a boy and girl falling in love during a protest in the 1970s; the nightlife of three girls in the 1980s, and a courageous rapper in the 1990s. Ray-Ban was awarded with two Gold Lions at the Cannes Lions 59th International Festival of Creativity 2012 in the Press Lions category in the sections Clothing, Footwear and Accessories and Photography for the Ray-Ban Legends Communication Campaign.
18| E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A
C A M P A I G N
Icons and legends of the past, present and future: this is the key message of Ray-Ban Legends.