N째 14/11 EDITION
ICONS Vidal Sassoon INTERVIEW Jane Maclaren-Taylor ROUND TABLE Hair Extensions
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C O N T E N T S ESTETICA FASHION No. 14/11 – FOURTEENTH EDITION
Published by Topco Media 5th Floor Pinnacle Building Strand Street Cape Town Ph: 086 000 9590 Fax: 021 423 7876 Email: info@estetica.co.za Website: www.estetica.co.za
STAFF
Editors Letter
10
Fashion: New York Fashion Week
15
Make-up
17
Beauty: Women
18
Interview: TiGi
19
Beauty: Men
20
Icons: Vidal Sassoon
24
Inspiration: Onstage Creativity
28
Beauty: Bastien Gonzalez
30
Vision: Tribal Boudoir
Estetica Moda: International Trends
Publisher Richard Fletcher
35
Catwalk Collections
44
Aqua Power
General Manager Ralf Fletcher
48
Out of Time
52
Nordic Style
58
Women in Colour
64
Let’s Play
68
Iconic Charm
Art Director Jayne Mace´
72
New Generation
Advertising & Business Development Manager Lizel Jonker
76
Summer Games
82
Fashion Hungry
88
Sweet Venus
92
Pearl of the South
96
Technique: Step by Step
Editor Cindy Horton Chief Sub-Editor Shaheema Albertyn-Burton
Distribution Manager Van Fletcher
CONTRIBUTORS
98
Interview: Jane Maclaren-Taylor
Photography Simon Deiner/ SDR Photography
100
Event: Beauty Fantasia and Western Province Hairdressing Championship
Printers Paarl Media Paarl
103
Icons: Leo Passage
105
Afro Section
106
Interview: Ethical or not?
110
Round Table: Hair Crazy
112
Services SETA
115
Agenda
118
News
122
Products
127
Subscriptions
128
Stockists
Published under licence from Estetica, Edizioni Esav srl, Turin/Italy
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E D I T O R I A L Hair: Schwarzkopf, Essential Looks Igora Royal Collection, 1/2011 Model: Lianne
Dark mornings and early evenings are never fun. It seemed as if summer was going to last forever, but Mother Nature gave us a quick and rude awakening, presenting us with months of grey clouds and rainy days to look forward to. The cold weather always has an effect on our skin, bodies and hair. Don’t let yourself turn into a tight prune this winter – get the latest winter beauty products on the Men and Women’s Beauty pages 16-19. Ease away aches and pains with relaxing bath soaks and body scrubs and beat the winter chill with warm and heavenly scents. Tame fly-away frizz and replace lost moisture with the newest professional hair products on pages 122-125. One area of our bodies that we tend to neglect in winter is our feet. Instead of displaying our brightly coloured
Ease away aches and pains toe nails in sandals, we wrap them up in with relaxing bath soaks thick socks and zipped into boots. Worldand body scrubs....
renowned pedicurist, Bastien Gonzalez,
page 28-29, tells us where we can get the best foot job in town and how his passion for beautifying feet has made him famous. In the Afro Section, we confront the controversial topic of ethically sourced hair for human hair extensions and why it is important for us to know where our glamorous locks come from. ESTETICA also chatted to stylists in the industry about the hair extension craze and how you can keep them looking fabulous. As the temperatures plummet and the heavens open with buckets of rain, let’s spare a thought for those less fortunate than us, who are unable to stay warm this winter. Help yourself by helping others. Lend a hand at a local soup kitchen for the homeless or un-clutter your closet by donating unwanted clothing and blankets to a worthy cause. When your good deeds are done, snuggle under the covers and let your copy of ESTETICA keep you company this winter.
Cindy Horton ESTETICASOUTHAFRICA|9
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Vintage
vixens Something old, something new, something borrowed… not only a formula for wedded bliss. Vintage is in, but with new colours and fabrics and – of course – hairstyles.
Richard Chai
T
Richard Chai
A bit of a subdued palette, but long, loose forms and sequins for a touch of light.
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by Marie Scarano
Milly
here is a lot of reminscing rampant on catwalks for the Fall/Winter New York Fashion Weeks. Is it merely nostalgia or is it that things really were better back then. Well - perhaps a bit of both. TIGI’s Kevin Ryan and the TIGI Creative Team did hair for various stylists this time around, including Richard Chai – a relative newcomer to the NY/FW scene – who presented somewhat somber classics with some trendy touches. Admittedly inspired by his menswear collection, Chai stated that “The collection is the essence of a New York woman.” Essence was a key word, as was elegance, dictating a somewhat neutral palette but with touches of contrasting sheer tops with sequins for a touch of sparkle for day or night. Everything was somewhat oversized, with long pleated skirts, boxy jackets, and free-flowing silhouettes that seemed to drop off the shoulders and hips. Kevin described this look as effortless, downtown-chic, and stood by an old TIGI regular – the bed-head look for the girl who’s so cool she doesn’t even have to try. What Chai shunned in colour, Milly made up for with vibrant coral reds and burgundies, as well as delicious fruity mango and cherry reds. Of course there was also some basic black, but very basic, as the other hues were not merely used as accents, but playfully Vintage hair: long and layered in stunning contrasts of tops, shirts, jackets parted in the middle. and more. Hats are back, both cloches and berets, as are maxi-coats and longer silhouettes in general, Texture is optional as well as classic plaids and a vintage feel that evokes luxury. Kevin zoomed in on the vintage edge, aiming to recreate sexy 70s girls in perfect harmony with the look, parting hair down the middle and adding volume on top and big bends at the ends. A matte rather than shine finish was more cool than luxurious, for a bit of a preppie look.
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C A T W A L K S
TIGI Catwalk Your Highness Root Boost is perfect for adding a bit of volume on top to update a vintage look.
Milly
Richard Chai
Milly
Richard Chai
Sleek and smooth is synonymous with cool and sexy for the Milly collection, while for Richard Chai a bed-head chic added an edge to a somewhat somber palette.
Catwalks photos: Juri Romano Studio
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 11
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Peter Som
Peter Som
Narciso Rodriguez
Narciso Rodriguez
DKNY
C A T W A L K S
Fruity-licious colours seduce with feminine cuts
Peter Som
Danger: curves ahead
DKNY
Catwalk photos: Juri Romano Studio
Wella Professionals hair team for Peter Som, Narciso Rodriguez and DKNY was headed up by Global Creative Director Eugene Souleiman, who came up with perfectly original styles to complement three very original collections for very different, but self-confident women. The style of Peter Som shouted contemporary, feminine and chic, with shorter knee-length garb, cinched jackets and waists, playing with a darkish palette of black, dark blues and all shades of grey possible, often inspired by metals like graphite, pewter, and silver, but lashing out with the occasional cherry red and tangerine, like in the cuffed cigarette-leg pant suit or cocktail dresses in silk mikado with frills. Souleiman couldn’t resist a 60s bouffant updated with today’s “deconstructed” look for a sexier look. Even the colour was customised to complement Som’s palette. Donna Karan’s DKNY collection was inspired by “New York Mods” with schoolgirl irony reflected in skirts that were well-above the knee in textured fabrics and boldly striped slouchy sweaters and don’t forget ankle socks! Even colours were ironic, almost neon fruits with reds and pinks to offset the neutrals. Here again, Souleiman gave in to this late 60s/early 70s influence, starting with a part down the middle and sleek blow-dry, then adding texture for a more contemporary “lived-in look”. The palette of Narciso Rodriguez’s straightforward collection was deceptively limited, as the salmon and burgundy accents are used to highlight graphic lines and geometric shapes, like the form-fitting insets in a mid-calf “little black dress” with a high collar or transparent overlays for a body-skimming sleeveless top. Such stark contrasts called for hair that could do it all, just as today’s modern woman does. “This is definitely hair with attitude. It’s rough, raw, and edgy,” says Eugene Souleiman, “This look is inspired by strong urban women… who are unapologetic and not afraid to look less than perfect.”
This year, Souleiman, started all three looks with a near-perfect finish, adding “life”, by either slightly backcombing or adding texture and lifting from the roots.
Hair Styling: Eugene Souleiman, Wella Professionals Global Creative Director of Care & Styling Haircolour: Aura, Wella Professionals Colour Ambassador Products: Wella Professionals
E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 13
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