Estetica 21st Edition by Topco Media

N° 21/13 EDITION

THE WORLD’S LEADING HAIR FASHION MAGAZINE

EVENTS Decade of Mastery FEATURE Manly Truths INTERVIEW Wella Projects

2 1 ST E D I T I O N 2013

R58.95 21/13

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Explore the world of Nectaya.

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D ED I C AT ED T O C O L O R P ER F EC T I O N .

E D I T O R I A L Hair: Cebado

Cindy Horton Editor ESTETICA South Africa cindy.horton@topco.co.za

Can you keep a secret? Do you love a bit of intrigue, or perhaps a good mystery? If you do, then welcome to the ‘year of the black snake’; when secrets will be whispered and mysteries will be revealed. In the beginning of every New Year, I like to delve into the beliefs of the Chinese Zodiac, to find out what animal will be influencing my path for the year ahead. According to Astrologer Malvin Artley, historically black snake years are ones of financial milestones, when countries change leaders, when shadowy figures put pay to their plans and when civil obedience moves people to greatness. When the black snake comes calling there is an epic story in the making, and this year will be the year the stories we tell our grandchildren take place. Business and salon owners will be gleaming at the idea of financial milestones in the year ahead. I am sure you will agree that last year was a tough and steady financial climb to stability. However, out of the hardships come innovative and forward-thinking ideas, products and services. How do you offer the same quality of service at a discounted price and in a shorter period of time to ensure that clients continue to return to your salon even when their pockets are nearly empty? Salons are now offering the convenience of a one-stop-shop for their clients, enabling them to get everything under one roof. Express bars offer one speciality service in the quickest time possible, allowing clients to fit their beauty treatments into their lunch break. Women aren’t the only ones wanting this freedom and innovation in products and services. Men are demanding that their different needs be met and product houses are listening. They want skin care treatments to assist their concerns and discreet colour rinses done at the basin in salons. To satisfy this demand, we have included another men’s feature in this edition of ESTETICA SA. Men Uncovered, page 72-75, informs our male readers on the importance of knowing your skin type, what it needs and how to care for it accordingly. We have been advised to dust off those old plans we have had stashed away in the cupboards of our minds. It will be a year of careful and patient work, but when it is time to launch your idea, people will marvel at the artistry of your efforts. That idea that some people may have thought was crazy or would never work may well write you into a greater chapter in the history books. I don’t know about you, but it’s definitely time for me to stop procrastinating, and ensure that this year I make my dreams come true. Cindy Horton Editor

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SLICK SALON SOLUTIONS

C O N T E N T S ESTETICA FASHION N°.21/13 – TWENTY FIRST EDITION 2013

Published under licence from Estetica, Edizioni Esav srl, Turin/Italy

8 Catwalks: Runway Fellas 12 Looks: Spring Breakers 16 Book: Cosmetic Creativity

Published by Topco Media 2nd Floor Bree Street Studios 17 New Church Street Cape Town Ph: 086 000 9590 Fax: 021 423 7876 Email: info@estetica.co.za Website: www.estetica.co.za

19 Beauty: Make-up 21 Beauty: Women 23 Beauty: Men 24 Events: Happy Birthday ITVA 26 Events: Decade of Mastery

STAFF Publisher Ralf Fletcher Production Director Van Fletcher Editor Cindy Horton Copy-Editor Daniel Mendes Creative Director Jayne Macé

28 Vision: Escape Reality MODE: INTERNATIONAL TRENDS

38 Goth Allure

42 Be Positive 48 Past Meets Present

Subscriptions & New Business Development Victor Ferreira

52 Artistic Attitude

Business Development Manager & Advertising Lizel Jonker

60 Sound of Colour

Images www.shutterstock.com Printers Paarl Media Paarl

56 Charming Shapes

65 Feature: Manly Truths

66 Trends: Gents Grooming 70 Culture: Military Honours 72 Editorial: Men Uncovered 76 Round Table: Hair Trending 78 Community: Friends of Valkenberg 80 Events: World Style 82 Interview: Wella Projects 84 Interview: Paula’s Penchant 86 Agenda: Calendar 88 News: Report 91 Product: Reviews 95 Subscriptions 96 Stockists

Runway

fellas

C Raeburn

The trend was for traditional men’s fabric colours to be spliced in with splashes of brightness.

here would the London runways be without the input of the TONI&GUY Art Team? At the first ever London Menswear Collections for SS13 they worked with five designers and set the benchmark for what we all hope will be a regular event. Christopher Raeburn’s men’s collection was the embodiment of the two characteristics his designs have become known for: style and function. The hair was a slick 90s throwback. For the E Tautz collection the hair was 1920s – side parted charm with groomed but lived-in movement – finger waved with a dry and dusty desert texture. There were elements of quintessential Brit tailoring and 20th century expeditions with the use of cotton poplins and linens. The hair look for Hackett was inspired by the bygone era of The Great Gatsby brought forward to the current day, fusing modernity and nostalgia, combined with classic boathouse suave and sophistication. The tailoring had a uniquely modern approach to evocative sartorial style. Pringle of Scotland saw slicked back quiffs, skinheads and Led Zeppelin locks. The hair takes inspiration from the ultra-masculine and tough side of army life where functionality is paramount – no fuss hair at its best. The collection combined the ease and function of modern performance wear with the luxurious detailing of traditional English Charmingly quintessential. country pursuits. Lightweight knits, deep indigo British tailoring was the denims, dual-purpose outerwear and the iconic basis for many of the shows! argyle completed the collection. TONI&GUY’s final outing for the SS13 Men’s Collections was styling YMC: hair was organic and effortlessly cool; clothes incorporated influences from vintage kimono prints, 60s surf culture and 80s casuals. Relaxed, unstructured silhouettes in printed silks and coated linens were teamed with tropical florals and leopard print for a carefree holiday style. Pringle

Pringle

The long-awaited Menswear collections hit the runways of London this summer, and the TONI&GUY Art Team was on hand to work their magic for the SS13 season.

C A T W A L K S

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(below) The TONI&GUY Art Team working backstage on the SS13 Men’s Collections.

The atmosphere backstage was laid-back and cool – more downbeat and casual than at LFW, but that’s men for you!

E Tautz

Hackett

YMC

Hackett

ows!

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Agi & Sam Omar Kashoura

Agi & Sam

Nicole Farhi

C A T W A L K S

Nicole Farhi

Sassoon styled four shows at the inaugural Men’s SS13

For the debut menswear collections in London, Sassoon was thrilled to support four designers ranging from renowned and established to new and up and coming. Sassoon’s first show was to design the hair for Spencer Hart. The creative team worked on a contemporary, stylish look that was perfectly in tune with the elegance and fluidity of Spencer Hart design. The hair was designed to look groomed, clean edges and barbered backs with wet look streamlining but given a twist by being ruffled in places with a matt texture. Team Leader Daniel Mcourt said: “We wanted to create the feeling of Sassoon Team Leaders working rebellion and attitude while retaining elegance and with the creative sophistication.” The highlight of the show saw team: Spencer Hart – Daniel Benedict Cumberbatch walking in a dressing gown McCourt; Agi & complete with a lit cigar. As part of the Topman Sam – Josh show, Agi & Sam began their brand with the Gibson; Omar Kashoura - Josh fundamental thought of designing for men. Gibson; Nicole The Sassoon Creative Team styled the hair working Farhi - Josh Gibson. with the natural texture of the models hair to create a soft, loose look which complemented the oversized floral prints and pastel paisleys on suits, cropped trousers and tailored shorts. The Nicole Farhi show was staged amid the soaring marble of the Royal Institute of British Architects. The Sassoon Creative Team styled the hair and team leader Josh Gibson stated: “The focus for the hair was on the shine and parting to give a pure, sleek look,” which matched the designers sophisticated, relaxed and modern collection animated with gentle colour and tactile fabrics. Sassoon’s fourth show saw ruggedly academic models on the runway for Omar Kashoura’s show with hands thrust in pockets while sporting a good deal of facial hair. Artistic Joshua Gibson and Worked, textured, sharply the Sassoon Creative Team worked with the natural groomed and barbered, parting of the models hair for a pure look to but still essentially edgy! complement Kashoura’s colour scheme. The London Menswear collections in June are a superb and long-awaited addition to the runway calendar for SS13 and complement perfectly the main London Fashion Week event which takes place every September.

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 11

Spring

Breakers

For the college crowds, Spring Break has always been something bordering on legend, coming of age, rollicking fun, don’t tell your parents.

his movie, by Director-writer Harmony Korine was selected to compete for the Golden Lion at the 69th Venice International Film Festival. Four college girls end up in jail after robbing a restaurant in order to fund their spring break vacation, only to find themselves bailed out by a drug and arms dealer – played by a brilliant James Franco – who wants them to do some dirty work. Singers-actresses Selena Gomez and Vanessa Hudgens have come a long way in their careers since their Disney Channel days. Ashley Benson (Brit), perhaps best-known for her role as Abigail in the USA daytime soap, Days of Our Lives, joined her co-stars in stunning red carpet capers for the screening of this film in Toronto and Venice. ESTETICA asked Daniel Chinchilla, FHI Heat’s Celebrity Beauty Expert, to rate the looks of these three stars in the photos that follow. Chinchilla’s work can be seen in countless magazines, advertisements, and on the Red Carpet. Born and raised in San Francisco, Daniel now resides in Hollywood, California, where he specialises in the art of Beauty in the Entertainment Industry.

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L O O K S

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Vanessa Hudgens Vanessa looks gorgeous and sexy here. I love her done, but undone hairstyle. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s very flirty, sexy and effortless-looking. Love that her hair is still framing her face with the soft waves. Only thing I would have liked is to have her hair smoothened out a bit more. The FHI Heat Runway IQ Roller System would have given her smooth, soft waves, with amazing body. Her best features are accentuated with a smokey eye, and the rest of her make-up is very clean and flawless. The dress was a perfect colour for her skin tone and shows the perfect amount of skin.

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Photo: Getty Images

Ashley Benson Ashley Benson is a sexy, beautiful girl. Reminding me a lot of Charlize Theron in this photo. I love her style and cut. They frame her face perfectly, and while it looks put together, is fun and sexy. I do feel like her golden blonde hair should be toned down slightly for a more flattering blonde. I do love the waves, although they could be smoother using the FHI Heat Runway Flat Iron. I think her eyelashes are too heavy, and her lip colour could have been cooler toned to brighten her up a bit. Unfortunately, the bright lights on the red carpet arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t very forgiving.

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L O O K S

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Photo: Getty Images

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Selena Gomez Selena Gomez looks beautiful with her shiny, healthy hair but I feel that she needs a lot more texture. I would have loved to have seen her waves broken up a bit to make her hair look more effortless and playful. The sheer fabric on her neck ages her, and it looks like sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hiding something. There is too much going on. On a brighter note, her make-up is beautiful, and her skin looks radiant and glowing. The purple tones on her eyes were a perfect match for her golden brown peepers.

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 15

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Cosmetic

Creativity

Two experts in their field, with genius inspiration. Make-up artist Ayami Nishimura once again joins forces with photographer Rankin in a stunning visual collaboration book.

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B O O K

Ayami Nishimura by Rankin/96 pages www.rankin.co.uk

ake-up can create a whole new persona and photography can record, interpret, even reveal that persona or what lies behind it. Building on the success of their past joint ventures (including cover portraits for Rankin’s Dazed & Confused magazine), the duo have now released a beauty book, Ayami Nishimura, in which Rankin immortalises some of Ayami’s spectacular cosmetic works of art. So who are the unseen faces behind the scenes, the make-up artist and photographer themselves? Ayami is a British-based make-up artist, born and raised in Japan – her style is clearly influenced by her early origins with obvious reference to the geisha tradition, oriental art and Harajuku street style. She originally worked as a hairdresser in Tokyo and, although she never works with hair now, this is inevitably a factor in her overall aesthetic vision. She draws inspiration from multiple sources – in interviews she has explained how her idea for the fish scale look evolved after coming across some plastic seaweed and shell props which reminded her about plastic fish she played with as a child. She creates entire image concepts – her make-up work is not always restricted to faces. She also applies beautiful total body make-up that can merge with accessories (such as a flower theme) or may opt to complement a made-up face with a matching outfit. Rankin, on the other hand, is the working name of John Rankin Waddell, a British photographer who works both in still-shot and television projects. With his collaborative partner Jefferson Hack, he also moved into the realm of production when they set up the Dazed Film & TV company which took its name from their first project, the Dazed & Confused magazine. He has also worked on global advertising campaigns for the likes of Nike, Dove, Levi and Coca-Cola to name but a few. The book’s release was recently heralded by exhibitions at the Diesel Gallery in Japan, Annroy Gallery in London and the Rankin Gallery in Los Angeles, receiving extremely positive reviews from the critics.

Two art forms merging for high visual impact – make-up that reveals beauty for the camera.

Photos: Ayami Nishimura/Rankin

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 17

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B E A U T Y

Romantic

obsession

Lancôme

Become mesmerised by the oriental vanilla fragrance of Hypnotic Poison by Dior. Shimansky My Girl is a captivating fragrance drawn from natural Bulgarian rose oil with hints of melon and peach. Complete any outfit with stylish shoes from Melissa. Handmade Stefalux jewellery available at smacs.co.za. Create glamorous eyes with Lancôme Hypnose Drama Mascara. Rich red nail lacquer, such as Nail Addict by Tip Top in Dangerous Robot, remain beauty essentials. The Lancôme La Vie est Belle includes notes of iris, jasmine and orange blossom. Use Kiehl’s Lip Gloss in Golden Berry for an irresistible pout. The Yves Saint Laurent Rouge Pur Couture Vernis à Lèvres Glossy Stain combines the texture and shine of a gloss with the long wear of a stain.

Tip Top

Lancôme

Kiehl’s

Yves Saint Laurent

Dior

Shimansky

Melissa

Stefalux

Continue celebrating the love with rich red tones, oriental scents and super sexy heels. Be romantic, sensual and completely irresistible with the latest beauty products and fragrances.

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 19

OVER 70 % OF USERS NOTICE THICKER, DENSER-LOOKING HAIR IN JUST 4 WEEKS

Firebrand 6485

NIOXIN Thinning Hair Systems Kits 5 and 6 are professional products specially designed for medium to coarse hair, offering thicker, denser-looking hair with made-to-measure moisture.

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B E A U T Y

Glowing

Powers Neydharting Moor

Be bewitched by the opulent and rich jasmineinfused Yues Saint Laurent Manifesto fragrance. Stella McCartney’s L.I.L.Y fragrance is bursting with unusual notes of truffle, lily of the valley and oak moss. Neydharting Moor Regenerating Night Cream will leave your skin feeling ultra-nourished. Cleanse dry and sensitive skin with Serra Cleansing Gel from Lamelle. Restore your skin’s healthy appearance overnight with Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Concentrate. Continue to protect your skin with Ultrasun SPF 30 Anti-Ageing Formula. Gelish Vitagel vitamin-enriched, soak off nail gel. Aqua di Gioia by Giorgio Armani is a refreshing blend of aquatic jasmine, dewy peony and pink pepper scents.

Kiehl’s

Ultrasun

Gelish

Giorgio Armani

Lamelle

Yves Saint Laurent

Stella McCartney

Do you dream of having rejuvenated, smooth and glowing skin? Regenerating night creams, and anti-ageing sun protection will leave your skin looking moisturised and youthful.

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 21

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FIRST EVER

IRON

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WITH RESERVOIR

TA N K

The ultimate treatment to add mega shine and seal in moisture Corioliss K2 Professional Vapour Infusion Treatment Iron • K2 pack includes heat activated Argan Shine (250ml) treatment • Adjustable temperature for different all treatments / hair types • Coriloliss vapour infused treatments leave hair softer and shinier • Dual vapour release settings, or use as a standard styling iron • Exclusive ‘Black Diamond’ super smooth vented ceramic plates • Auto sleep mode and safety lock for safe storage • Shiny gloss black design

B E A U T Y

Smooth

Operator

Nimue

Kiehl’s

Neutrogena

Giorgio Armani

Nimue

Nimue Man Soothe Treatment Aftershave is a multi-active treatment balm to soothe, tone, moisturise and revive the skin after shaving. Danné Montague-King Solar Damage Gel provides a diet of skin-supporting nutrients to repair the damage caused by the sun and the environment. Kiehl’s signature scent Original Musk Blend N°1 is a floral, woody and musk fragrance. Combat dry skin with Serra Restore Cream from Lamelle. Daily use of sunscreen is of critical importance in maintaining skin health; try Nimue Sun-C SPF 40 Sunscreen & Antioxidants for ultimate protection. Kiehl’s Close-Shavers Squadron™ Ultimate Brushless Shave Cream gently removes facial hair. Neutrogena Men Razor Defence Shave Gel prevents razor bumps and cuts while making the skin less prone to irritation. The Armani Code Ultimate eau de toilette aims to be more intense, sensual and luxurious than its predecessor with scents of grapefruit, mandarin and star anise.

Lamelle

Kiehl’s

Danné Montague-King

Treat your skin this season with the latest products in skin care. Brushless shave creams and multi-active treatment balms will smooth complexions and revive the skin.

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 23

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Happy birthday

videooniPad

ITVA!

Wella Professionals celebrated 10 years of International Trend Vision Award in Madrid. With gold medals for China and Canada, and an exclusive preview of 2013 trends.

Smartphone

ESTETICAEVENTS!

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hile Trend Vision Award confers an educational element to the event, the international trend previews put hair fashion at the forefront and the ‘Parade of Nations’ truly demonstrates it as the perfect vehicle to get hairdressers from all over the world involved and excited about their industry. Two thousand professionals turned up in Madrid to applaud 80 finalists from 50 countries. Such was its success that Adil Mehboob-Khan, president of P&G Salon Professional and Global Wella Professionals, announced, “We will continue to invest in the Trend Vision Award. It’s an educational event that each country enjoys all year round, one which we totally believe in – we are sure that it contributes to the growth of this fabulous industry.” Asia again showed a strong presence on the gold podium. Victory in the Young Talent category went to China (thanks to Zhangjian Wang of Wake up Salon) while Canada took the Colour medal (Philip Ferreira of Axis Salon). As always, the event’s charitable efforts were an important part of the night – the Making Waves initiative (in collaboration with Unicef) is now arriving in Romania, following in the footsteps of Brazil/Belem. The evening’s concept theme, under the expertise of presenter Patrick Cameron, was ‘The Sound of Colour’. It could hardly be otherwise, in light of the Illumina Color launch and the upcoming new colour treats for 2013. The new 2013 trends – Fusion, Echo, Decibel and Allegra by Eugene Soleiman and Josh Wood – also provided an explosion of colour. Interpretations of the four trends were given in Madrid by Dmitriy Vinokurov (Russia), Alexis Ferrer and Marcos Leonardo (Spain), Sassoon Creative Team (England) and Cyril Brune (France). So now it’s goodbye until next time, in Germany for ITVA 2013!

The Award finals. Below from left: the entries from Chinese hairstylist Zhangjian Wang (Young Talent) and Canadian Philip Ferreira (Colour).

2013/05/02 2:49 PM

E V E N T S

linkoniPad

INTERVIEWS WITH KEVIN OTERO AND SYLVIE MOREAU ESTETICANetwork representatives (journalists and editors from ESTETICA France, Spain, Korea, Turkey, Czech&Slovak, Italy and Greece) arrived in Madrid where they interviewed Sylvie Moreau and Kevin Otero. We talked to them about new projects (from marketing to products), upcoming new launches, and their collaboration with the ESTETICANetwork. Both hairdressers had this to say to hairdressers the world over: “Your profession is unique - a mixture of skilled craftsmanship and creativity! With final results which are always ‘personalised’ – just like Wella services.” For the complete interviews and videos, check out the iPad app above.

From left: Srebrenka Hanak, Adil MehboobKhan, Michelle Mason. Larger photos: the four trends for 2013.

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 25

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Decade of

mastery London’s ExCel hosted Color Zoom’s 10th anniversary, which saw more than 2 500 hairstylists from 40 countries experience Beautify – the launch of the new 2013 trend.

he creative masters behind Goldwell/KMS California’s premier event, Color Zoom, had a special reason to celebrate, as 2012 marked the 10th anniversary of what has become an iconically successful event in our international calendar. London was very proud to host the finals at the ExCel Exhibition Centre in Docklands throughout three days of excitement and febrile tension backstage leading up to the announcement of the international champions. The first day saw the 72 national finalists from 30 different countries competing live onstage in a three-hour session, from creating

The show looked back at past highlights, which included “Newstalgia” (2008), “Rockmantic” (2008), “Virtualist” (2009) & “Play Strong” (2011).

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by Gary Kelly

to completing their looks. Then, on day two, amid a wave of anticipation and nervous energy, the international finalists congregated once more at the Color Zoom show and party, a high-energy event which began with a stunning performance by singer Jessica Mears and was followed by a catwalk show of Color Zoom trends from the past decade to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the event. The show also saw the exciting launch of Beautify, the innovative trend collection for 2013, presented by the renowned Beverly C and Rita Marcon. They explained the concept as visualised by the International Color Zoom Creative Team: vividly colourful and rich in inspiration from the current social and cultural trends. The grand finale was brought to the stage by Michael Barnes with an avant garde interpretation of the 2013 Beautify trend. The show ended with the eagerly-awaited announcement of the contest winners (see facing page) from Cory Couts, Worldwide President of Goldwell & KMS California. With the formalities over, the partying could begin – and with this being Color Zoom, no instructions were needed there!

2013/04/22 6:34 PM

E V E N T S

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The 2012 Awards winners are: Hagen Kr端ger (Germany) - Partner Colorist; Chief Lin (Taiwan) Creative Colorist; Eason Chen (Taiwan) - New Talent Colorist.

Intense excitement throughout, with proud winners and an avant garde show fitting for the 10th anniversary of Color Zoom

E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 27

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V I S I O N

Escape

Reality

Team Twins launched their new collection, based on the desire to â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;escape from realityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, at Progress Hair Switzerland. 28| E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A

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Team Twins

The collection is filled with creativity that pushes all boundaries.

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Escape Collection 2013 Structured cuts and playful shapes accentuate the unique combinations.

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V I S I O N

The brighter the better. Bold colour explosions create a dynamic and daring collection. Green, the colour of 2013, features in tones of mint, aqua and emerald. E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 31

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V I S I O N

Hints of peach and platinum burst through the explosion of colour. Different tones playfully paired together produce unusual contrasts. 32| E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A

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Creative structure Sharp angles frame the face while varying shades of colour create depth to each style.

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Colour overload Photos: Petra Holland Make-up: Darien Touma Styling: Annet Veerbeek Studio: PilotStudio Amsterdam

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V I S I O N

Coppers, reds and plums uniquely blend together and form an updated take on the OmbrĂŠ colour technique. E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 35

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e x c l u s i v e ly at y o u r l ' o r ĂŠ a l p r o f e s s i o n n e l h a i r d r e s s e r

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N A Ds B Giocare d’anticipo. Capire dove nascono le tendenze e le nuove direzioni del futuro. Per essere sempre all’avanguardia. Per offrire il meglio agli hairstylist in salone. Direttamente dai brand coiffure internazionali, le top-collections di stagione. Das Vorspiel: Verstehen, wo die neuen und zukünftigen Trends liegen, um immer Avantgarde zu sein und dem Friseur im Salon das Beste anbieten zu können. Direkt von den internationalen Coiffure-Marken: Die TopKollektionen der Saison!

KEEPING AHEAD OF THE GAME. SNIFFING OUT WHERE THE TRENDS AND FUTURE FASHIONS LIE. ALWAYS AVANT GARDE, OFFERING THE BEST IDEAS AROUND TO SALON HAIRDRESSERS. STRAIGHT FROM THE TOP INTERNATIONAL HAIRDRESSING BRANDS, HERE ARE THE SEASON’S TOP COLLECTIONS.

Collections

Savoir anticiper. Comprendre où naissent les tendances et les nouvelles directions du futur. Pour être toujours à l’avantgarde. Pour offrir le meilleur aux coiffeurs, au salon. En direct des meilleures marques de la coiffure internationale, voici les plus belles collections de la saison. Jugar con ventaja. Entender dónde nacen las tendencias y las nuevas direcciones del futuro. Para estar siempre a la vanguardia. Para ofrecer lo mejor a los estilistas en el salón. Directamente de las marcas de peinado internacional, las colecciones-top de la temporada.

Aveda

Goldwell

L’Oréal Professionnel label.m - Toni&Guy

Keune Revlon Professional Wella Professionals

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Illusioni. Giochi di ombra e luce. Atmosfere neo gotiche di romanticismo moderno. Nella collezione Aveda autunno/inverno 2012-2013, colori tridimensionali e tagli strutturati. Magnetismo intimo, proiezioni futuriste: ispirazioni Japan. Glamour ultraterreno, visioni di lusso.

Goth ALLURE Antoinette Beenders for Aveda

FANTASY. SUBTLE GAMES OF SHADE AND LIGHT. NEO-GOTHIC MOOD FOR MODERN ROMANTICISM. THE AVEDA A/W 2012-2013 COLLECTION OFFERS THREE-DIMENSIONAL COLOUR AND STRUCTURED HAIRDOS. INTIMATE CHARM, SPACE-AGE PERSPECTIVE, WITH JAPANESE INSPIRATION. SUPERNATURAL GLAMOUR, LUXURY IDEAS. Illusionen, Schatten- und Lichtspiele, eine neogotische Atmosphäre der modernen Romantik: Die Herbst/Winter - Kollektion 2012-2013 von Aveda zeigt dreidimensionale Farben und strukturierte Schnitte. Die japanische Inspiration sind intimer Magnetismus und futuristische Projektionen. Überirdischer Glamour und luxuriöse Visionen.

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Illusions. Jeux d’ombres et de lumières. Atmosphère néogothique d’un romantisme moderne. Dans la collection Aveda automne/hiver 2012-2013, couleurs tridimensionnelles et coupes structurées. Du magnétisme intime, des projections futuristes : inspirations japonaises. Du glamour ultra terrestre, des visions de luxe. Ilusiones. Juegos de sombra y luz. Atmósferas neo góticas de romanticismo moderno. En la colección de Aveda otoño/ invierno 2012-2013, colores tridimensionales y cortes estructurados. Magnetismo íntimo proyecciones futuristas: inspiración Japan. Glamour ultraterreno, visiones de lujo.

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Creative Direction: Antoinette Beenders for Aveda Hair: Ian Michael Black, Ricardo Dinis, Allen Ruiz Photo: Jenny Hands Make-up: Janell Geason Products: Aveda

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L’autunno/inverno di Goldwell si accende di ottimismo positivo. Beautify Collection non è solo un’idea moda: diventa un modo di essere, il sentirsi parte del tutto. Un dinamismo frizzante che contagia il colore: i pastello cercano il biondo e l’innovazione. Le linee sono grafiche, i dettagli personalizzabili.

Be POSITIVE! Goldwell Color Zoom Creative Team

GOLDWELL LIGHTS UP THE AUTUMN/WINTER SEASON WITH CHEERFUL OPTIMISM. THE BEAUTIFY COLLECTION IS NOT SIMPLY A FASHION PROPOSAL – IT’S A WAY OF LIFE, A SENSE OF BELONGING. FROTHY ENERGY, SPREADING TO COLOUR – PASTELS TEAM UP WITH BLONDE AND INNOVATION. GRAPHIC HAIR DESIGN, JUST WAITING TO BE PERSONALISED. Der Herbst/Winter von Goldwell startet mit Optimismus. Die „Beautify“Kollektion ist nicht nur eine Mode-Idee: Es ist eine Art des Seins, ein Gefühl Teil des Ganzen zu sein. Die prickelnde Dynamik infiziert die Farbe: Die Pastelltöne suchen das Blonde und die Innovation.

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L’automne/hiver de Goldwell est empli d’optimisme. La collection Beautify n’est pas une question de mode : c’est une façon d’être, de faire partie d’un tout. Un dynamisme pétillant qui déteint sur la couleur : les pastels recherchent le blond et l’innovation. Les lignes sont graphiques, les détails personnalisables. El otoño/invierno de Goldwell se enciende con optimismo positivo. Beautify Collection se convierte en una forma de ser, sentirse parte de un todo. Un dinamismo burbujeante que contagia al color: los pasteles buscan el rubio y la innovación. Las líneas son gráficas, los detalles personalizables.

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Hair: Goldwell Color Zoom Creative Team Photo: Stefan Ziehen Make-up: Loni Bauer Styling: Xenia Bous Products: Goldwell E S T E T I C A M O D A | 47

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Viaggio nel tempo all’insegna delle icone femminili del secolo passato. Ci guida per mano la collezione colore L’Oréal Professionnel Rétro Nouveau per questo autunno/inverno. Vero distillato di charme ed eleganza che trae spunto dalla couture e dal grande cinema degli anni ‘50 e ‘60.

Past meets PRESENT

International Hairstylists L’Oréal Professionnel

TIME TRAVEL BACK TO THE LAST CENTURY, IN SEARCH OF FEMALE ICONS. LET THIS AUTUMN/WINTER’S L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL RETRO NOUVEAU COLOUR COLLECTION TAKE YOU THERE. A REAL TREAT, WITH STYLE AND ELEGANCE INSPIRED BY THE HAUTE COUTURE AND SILVERSCREEN STARS OF THE 50S AND 60s. Eine Zeitreise im Schatten der weiblichen Ikonen des vergangenen Jahrhunderts: Die Farbkollektion Rétro Nouveau von L’Oréal Professionnel für diesen Herbst/Winter. Purer Charme und pure Eleganz, mit einem Hauch von Couture und großem Kino der 50er und 60er.

Voyage dans le temps à l’enseigne des icônes féminines du siècle dernier. Notre guide, la collection couleur L’Oréal Professionnel Rétro Nouveau pour cet automne/ hiver. Un vrai concentré de charme et d’élégance qui s’inspire de la hautecouture et du grand cinéma des années 50 et 60. Viajar en el tiempo en el nombre de los iconos femeninos del siglo pasado. Nos lleva de la mano la colección color L’Oréal Professionnel Rétro Nouveau para este otoño e invierno. Auténtico destilado de charme y elegancia que se inspira en la alta costura y el gran cine de los años 50 y 60.

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Left Artistic Direction: Odile Gilbert for L’Oréal Professionnel Hair colour: Jean-Jacques Doolaeghe Photo: Michelangelo Di Battista Make-up: Carole Colombani Styling: Samuel François Products: L’Oréal Professionnel Right Hair: Tomohiro Kobayashi and Asami Toyoda for L’Oréal Professionnel Photo: Alexander Neumann Make-up: Sergio Corvacho Products: L’Oréal Professionnel E S T E T I C A M O D A | 49

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Left Hair: Salons Luis Y Tachi and Pascual Segura for L’Oréal Professionnel Photo: Alexander Neumann Make-up: Sergio Corvacho Products: L’Oréal Professionnel Right Hair: Giuseppe Cerella and Ciro Cerella for L’Oréal Professionnel Photo: Alexander Neumann Make-up: Sergio Corvacho Products: L’Oréal Professionnel E S T E T I C A M O D A | 51

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La nuova collezione 2012-2013 di Toni&Guy, Artelier, prende il nome dagli studi degli artisti francesi, a sottolinearne la matrice fortemente creativa. Texture e forme originali, immagini impattanti, forza couture di tinte grafiche e tagli voguish rivelano un’anima sfaccettata e comunicativa.

Artistic ATTITUDE

Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck and the Toni&Guy Artistic Team – label.m

THE NEW ARTELIER COLLECTION FOR 2012-2013 BY TONI&GUY TAKES ITS NAME FROM THE FRENCH ARTISTS’ STUDIO, POINTING TO ITS INTENSELY CREATIVE CHARACTER. ORIGINAL SHAPES AND TEXTURE, HIGH-IMPACT IMAGES, COUTURE POWER WITH GRAPHIC COLOURS AND TRENDY CUTS, FOR A MULTI-FACETED AND COMMUNICATIVE SPIRIT. Die neue 2012-2013 Kollektion von Toni&Guy, Artelier, angelehnt an die französische KünstlerSzene, beinhaltet: Ursprüngliche Texturen und Formen, beeindruckende Bilder, starke, grafische Farb-Couture und Schnitte „en vogue“ zeigen eine facettenreiche und kommunikative Seele.

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La nouvelle collection 2012-2013 Toni&Guy, Artelier, tire son nom des études des artistes français, visant à en souligner la composante fortement créative. Des textures et des formes originales, des images impactantes, force du mélange de teintes graphiques et de coupes en vogue qui révèlent un esprit multifacette et communicateur. La nueva colección 2012-2013 de Toni&Guy, Artelier, toma su nombre a partir de los estudios de los artistas franceses, para enfatizar la matriz altamente creativa. Textura y originales formas, imágenes impactantes, fuerza couture con colores gráficos y cortes voguish revelan su alma.

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Artistic Direction: Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck and the Toni&Guy Artistic Team Photo: Troyt Coburn Make-up: Hiromi Ueda Styling: Michelle Duguid Products: label.m E S T E T I C A M O D A | 55

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Nuove tecnologie e radici storiche: oggi la cultura mixa codici creativi. Dal passato, il fascino della storia. Dal futuro, la tentazione del design. Nel presente di Keune, la seduzione di un’idea moda forte e contemporanea. Techno artigianalità, fascinazioni virtuali.

Charming SHAPES Keune Studio Team

NEW TECHNOLOGY AND HISTORIC ROOTS – CULTURE TODAY MIXES CREATIVE FORMS. TAKING HISTORIC CHARM FROM THE PAST AND TEMPTING DESIGN FROM THE FUTURE. IN THE HERE AND NOW, KEUNE OFFERS A SEDUCTIVE FASHION IDEA, POWERFUL AND CONTEMPORARY. TECHNO-CRAFTSMANSHIP, VIRTUAL APPEAL. Neue Technologien mit historischen Wurzeln: Aus der Vergangenheit kommt die geschichtliche Faszination, aus der Zukunft die Versuchung des Designs und in der Gegenwart von Keune zählt die Verführung einer starken und zeitgenössischen ModeIdee. Handwerkskunst und virtuale Faszinationen.

Nouvelles technologies et racines historiques : aujourd’hui, la culture mixe les codes créatifs. Du passé, l’attrait de l’histoire. Du futur, la tentation du design. Du présent de Keune, la séduction d’une idée mode forte et contemporaine. De l’artisanat techno, des charmes virtuels. Las nuevas tecnologías y las raíces históricas: la cultura actual mezcla códigos creativos. Desde el pasado, el encanto de la historia. Desde el futuro, la tentación del diseño. En el presente de Keune, la seducción de una idea moda fuerte y contemporánea. Artesanía techno, fascinaciones virtuales.

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Hair: Keune Studio Team Photo: Hans de Vries Make-up: Dominika Swietlik Styling: Angela Kuperus Products: Keune E S T E T I C A M O D A | 59

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Allegra, Decibel, Fusion, Echo. Trend 2013 carichi di contaminazioni. Tra Oriente e Occidente... Ma soprattutto interpretazioni moda attraversate dalle vibrazioni del colore. Che si fa musica. Quattro tendenze “melodiche” dove trionfano sinfonie di volumi e azzardi cromatici. Allegra, Decibel, Fusion, Echo: Die Trends 2013 sind eine Mischung zwischen Ost und West. . . Aber vor allem sind es ModeInterpretationen basierend auf Farbschwingungen. Vier „melodische” Trends, in denen Sinfonien des Volumens und chromatische Wagnisse triumphieren.

Sound of COLOUR

Wella Professionals

Allegra, Decibel, Fusion, Echo. Tendances 2013 chargées d’inspirations. Entre Orient et Occident... Mais, surtout, des interprétations mode traversées par les vibrations de la couleur. Qui se fait musique. Quatre tendances « mélodieuses » où triomphent symphonies de volumes et essais chromatiques.

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ALLEGRA, DECIBEL, FUSION AND ECHO. THE 2013 TRENDS MIX AND MATCH INSPIRATION SOURCES. FROM THE EAST AND WEST... BUT ABOVE ALL FROM FASHION IDEAS ARRIVING FROM COLOUR VIBRATION. COLOUR THAT MAKES MUSIC. THESE FOUR ‘MELODIC’ TRENDS OFFER SYMPHONIES OF VOLUME AND DARING COLOUR.

Allegra, Decibel, Fusion, Echo. Trend 2013 lleno de contaminaciones. Entre Oriente y Occidente ... Pero sobretodo interpretaciones moda atravesadas por las vibraciones del color. Se convierte en música. Cuatro tendencias “melódicas” donde triunfan sinfonías de volúmenes y osadías cromáticas.

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A unique all-in-one shielding lotion and dry skin care treatment!

Recommended and used by more than 9500 dermatologists and medical practitioners worldwide.

Available in 240ml and 60ml retail options and a 2.8 litre economy pump bottle for in salon use.

Keep the good stuff in and the bad stuff out. Create a new income stream for your salon or spa and provide skin protection for your staff against the moisture depleting chemicals, and solvents that they come into contact with on a daily basis. Gloves In A Bottle is fragrance and grease free, non-toxic, hypo-allergenic and non-comedogenic. A single dose lasts four to 12 hours. In addition to the protection offered by Gloves In A Bottle, it supports and relieves dry, cracked, red and itchy skin, skin allergies, eczema, psoriasis and dermatitis. Medloyd Healthcare Tel: 011 397 2717 / 083 653 2719 | Email: rob@medloyd.co.za

Enter the ESTETICA digital world.

The future is now! WEB www.estetica.co.za SOCIAL MEDIA www.facebook.com/ Esteticasouthafrica www.twitter.com/ @Estetica_SA

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Manly Truths

T’S BELIEVED THAT CLOTHES MAKE THE MAN, BUT ACCORDING TO OUR EXPERTS, IT’S YOUR GROOMING THAT TRULY DEFINES YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. IN THIS FEATURE WE EXPLORE THE LATEST TRENDS IN MEN’S GROOMING AND HOW IT HAS EVOLVED. ESTETICA SA TAKES A LOOK AT MEN’S FASHION ON THE RUNWAY AND DELVES INTO THE HOTTEST HAIR STYLES FOR 2013, GONE ARE THE DAYS OF ‘SHORT BACK AND SIDES’ AND HELLO TO GROOMED LOOKS, AND WELL EXECUTED STYLES.

Gents Grooming C

Long Form heck yourself in the For those who prefer to wear their

by Kendall Farr

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mirror. If your look says ‘same haircut for 10 years’, it’s definitely time to rethink your look – and that can be done with a great cut and the right products. The good news: men’s hairstyles evolve far more slowly than women’s. When it comes to hair, men seldom ask for fashion advice or direction, and they often need both, says Sam Burns, International Educator for Paul Mitchell Systems. When it is time for a change, bring your stylist pictures of the look you want. This is the easiest way to get a dialogue going about what will work best for your texture and facial structure, and whether the style can work for you. “A good hair cut, regardless of its length or style, should emphasise a man’s jawline so that it appears square and masculine,” advises Damian Carney, Joico International Artistic Director.

The New and Now

Think Mad Men’s Don Draper, or Brad Pitt in Inglourious Basterds. The latest riff on a traditionally barbered look is known as the ‘undercut’ and the pros favour the versatility of this longer-on-top and shorter-on-the-sides style. The undercut works for straight and curly hair alike, “but for any guy, the line of his haircut must be chosen for his hair texture first,” says Sebastian Professional lead stylist Anthony Cole. “I never recommend cutting into the hairline with a razor,” he adds.

hair long, Sexy Hair’s Rafe Hardy recommends a ‘man bob’. Johnny Depp is one of the stars who favour the look of shorter layers mixed into an essentially one-length cut at about the jawline. “When you opt for a one-length cut, create a solid line at your collar so the hair doesn’t look too bulky,” he adds. This is also a cut that works for straight and wavy hair alike.

The Right Stuff

A man’s scalp is thicker and produces more oil than a woman’s, so whatever cut you get, be sure to use the right products to keep your hair looking great. That means shampoo and conditioner designed for men. Try a multi-tasker like MITCH Double Hitter, which cleans and conditions at the same time, for fast and effective care. A guy’s styling products should add a little TIGI

It’s been said that clothes make the man, but according to our experts, it’s your grooming that can torpedo your personal style to a new level. Here are the latest trends.

Bedheads are still hot, but keep the overall look coherent.

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T R E N D S

Goldwell P&G

Paul Mitchell

linkoniPad

“A good hair cut... should emphasise a man’s jawline so that it appears square and masculine.”

Scruples

Damian Carney

Something that works for everyone is the versatility of the ‘undercut’ longer-on-top and shorter-on-thesides. Ask your hairdresser!

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Paul Mitchell

P&G

KMS California

Styling products should be invisible, hair colour subtle â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a professional stylist can help you transition into your new look...

Remember to 'manscape' - balance beard and hair, trim or wax neckline. Don't forget nose and ears! Go for a total look.

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Deficit Reduction

Our experts agree that the key to a fuller look is a cut that mixes short and slightly longer areas together to accentuate a man’s features. Texturise your short style with a leave-in spray, like Aveda’s Pure Abundance Style Prep, that penetrates the hair shaft with plant extracts for a fuller appearance. Or choose a product that nourishes and provides scalp protection, like Bosley’s Healthy Hair Scalp Protect SPF 20 Sunscreen, which is formulated with marine and plant ingredients.

Keeping Grey At Bay

When it come to a man’s hair colour, subtle is best. If you are looking to change your natural base colour, “solid colours look hip and highlights are a fashion faux

pas right now,” says Mitchel Wilson, Learning Lab Creative Director for TIGI Haircare. TIGI’s HFG Haircolour for Gentlemen line is designed for an ultra-natural appearance. Adding some pepper to your salt is a sexy half-measure so you never look like you resort to hair colouring. Goldwell’s Men ReShade offers an ultra-modern looking colour range. “No one wants to walk into a salon looking like Anderson Cooper only to leave with Elvis’ black or Arnold Schwarzenegger’s copper tone,” says George Papanikolas, a Joico celebrity colourist. He recommends Vero K-Pak Chrome Colour for a demi-permanent formula that avoids brassiness.

The Last Detail: Manscaping

A big tuft of chest hair peeking out of an open collar, caterpillar brows, nose hair, hair on the ears, and grubby nails and cuticles are all grooming “don’ts,” say our pros. Any hair on your face needs to be proportionate with your hair cut. “A big mistake guys make is wearing long hair and a long beard together – it’s one or the other, says Wella’s Aubrey Loots. Who wants the Deadwood look? “The shorter the hair on his head, the more a man can play with variations on his facial hair,” Before you shop for the right jeans or a jacket with narrow lapels, book in with your hairstylist to fine-tune your look. Now is the perfect time to change your style and it all starts with your grooming.

Sexy Hair’s Rafe Hardy recommends a ‘man bob’ for that sexy Johnny Depp look that works for straight and wavy hair alike.

TIGI

shine and remove that ‘fluffy clean look’ of freshly-shampooed hair. “If the product you’re wearing is noticeable in your hair, then you are using the wrong product,” says Carney. The newest evolution in men’s grooming is weightless, leave-in creams and serums that offer treatment and styling control at the same time, like Sebastian’s new Potion 9 or TIGI B for Men Leave-In Conditioner with saw palmetto to treat a dry scalp. For Don Draper’s side part, MITCH Steady Grip gives hair shine and weightless control without looking greasy. Coarse and thick hair looks bulk-free styled with pomades like Wella's Smooth Brilliance.

Paul Mitchell

T R E N D S

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Military

Honours Gino Morena left Sicily in 1938 to seek fortune in the US. Hard work allowed him to become the concessionaire of over 450 military barbershops and salons nationwide.

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till a family business, Gino’s son Rex became president of Gino Morena Enterprises in 2005, while third-generation family members Gino and Adrianna joined the business in 2012. Their mission is simple: to provide the best possible hair care services and retail products to all US Military Active Duty personnel, retirees and their families. All the barbershops and salons, most of which are located on US military bases, are ultimately managed by corporate headquarters in South San Francisco, having brought a new ‘brand’ concept to the US Military community with Onyx Paul Mitchell Signature Salons by Gino Morena, offering updated looks for the salons and guests alike, benefiting from the best ideas of John Paul Mitchell Systems, as well as other professional brands like Simply Smooth, Joico and Matrix. So while spouses, children and retirees may enjoy the latest styles, active recruits must conform with the ‘Dress and Personal Appearance Handbook’. Women may colour their hair, but it must be a natural hue, and new recruits must have hair short enough to fit under their cap. Men, instead, are required to have short hair tapered on both sides and the back. Many historic military figures like George Washington and George Custer actually flaunted longish locks, as it wasn’t until World War II that the military adopted the Crew Cut, which was also a way to prevent lice infestations. Today, the Crew Cut, the Flat Top and even the Buzz Cut have been embraced as mainstream, because they are very flattering, accentuating the cheekbones and eyes. Even celebrities such as Tom Cruise and Daniel Craig have been seen sporting these looks. In fact, men of all ages have learned that a buzz cut can create the illusion of hair covering the scalp, making it a fantastic alternative to the ‘comb-over’!

Rex’s dad, Gino, hard at work. The decor of the barbershops and salons has changed since then!

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C U L T U R E

The â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Great Equaliserâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is intended to eliminate a recruitâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s personal identity and makes him a soldier, providing uniformity of appearance.

Today, military styles have gone mainstream, as demonstrated by celebs like David Beckham, Daniel Craig and Kevin Hart. Bottom right: Rex Morena and John Paul DeJoria inspect one of the many salons.

Gino Morena Enterprises is dedicated to giving deserving US troops and their families the best in hair care and grooming.

Celeb and historic imagery Getty Images. Other images courtesy of Gino Morena Enterprises.

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Men

uncovered Is a man’s skin really different? Dermalogica educator, Jamilia Gaibie, informs our male readers on how important it is to know your skin type, what it needs and how to care for it accordingly.

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ll men are created equal. While this may ring true in the political realm of society, it is far from true when it comes to the physiology and care of men’s skin. Men, just like women, deal with issues like oily skin, aging, pigmentation, sensitivity, and acne. However, just as there are keen differences between the skin conditions of men and women, every man’s skin is as unique as his fingerprint. His skin health is shaped not only by his genes, but also by his lifestyle choices. A man’s skin structure considerably differs from a woman’s because of differences in hormonal profile which greatly influences the skin. A man’s skin is oilier and hence more prone to acneic breakout. The reasons for that are hormones which regulate the sebaceous glands activity. Testosterone increases oil secretion all over the body, as is particularly evident on the face and contributes to larger

pores as well. This increase begins at puberty and remains relatively constant thereafter. Sebum and sweat, along with the skin’s natural oils make up the ‘oil’ on the surface of the skin. This is the perfect breeding ground for acne associated bacteria called P.Acnes. The presence of these bacteria, along with the excess poreclogging oil, set the stage for the onset of acne. SOME TIPS FOR THOSE OF YOU WHOSE OIL GLANDS ARE OUT OF CONTROL: Don't Be Afraid of Products… Men’s skin care has come a long way from the days when your father would wash his face with a withered bar of soap and cover up shaving nicks with bits of toilet paper. Today, there are products specially formulated to meet the needs of the stubborn (and stubbly)

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E D I T O R I A L

male epidermis. A winning skin care regimen should be swift and simple to ensure, most importantly, that you'll actually follow it. CLEANSE If you do nothing else, cleansing is the single most important thing you can do. It should be the basis of your skin care regimen, but that doesn’t mean reaching for a simple bar of soap (which can overcompensate and leave your skin dryer than a desert). Neglecting to wash away the excess oil and dirt can clog pores, which leaves the skin prone to breakouts. The ideal cleanser for this typically oily skin is a clay based cleanser. Water soluble clays, together with purifying botanicals extracts and menthol, work well together, to remove excess oils, and refine the skin’s texture. They will also provide deep cleansing, and contribute towards calming aggravated skin and help prevent future breakouts.

EXFOLIATE Sometimes cleaning the skin with a cleanser just isn’t enough. A cleanser washes away oil and dirt on the surface, but what about all that underlying debris and congestion deep down in your pores? Even religious use of a cleanser can still leave your face feeling somewhat bumpy to the touch. That’s where exfoliation should make an appearance in your skin routine (just two to three times a week). It helps dislodge debris that normal washing can’t reach. A good exfoliator should have granules and enzymes to help smooth the skin’s surface and work deeper into the follicle itself. It will also assist in eliminating the dullness that results from congestion build-up. Exfoliation also allows the skin to better absorb moisturisers. MOISTURISE It sounds outrageous to moisturise an oily skin, doesn't it? However, oil and moisture are two very different

The average man will shave approximately 20 000 times in his life. things. Everybody's skin needs extra moisture. There are too many environmental factors such as cold winds to hot furnaces that steal it from you. Add all this to the horror of placing a sharp blade next to your face every day to appease rigid HR standards for clean-cut wholesomeness, and you have a recipe for irritated skin that’s parched and taut. Showering and shaving open up pores and allow precious water to escape, but a lightweight moisturiser can fix everything. It replenishes the skin’s moisture content. A moisturiser with SPF will also provide a critical shield against the sun. Harsh UVB rays cause the skin to burn, but it’s the UVA rays that lead to long-term damage like deep lines and skin cancer. A moisturiser with multispectrum defence takes care of it all. The best moisturiser for oily skin will be lightweight and oil-free (bonus points if you find one with sunscreen). Men may have greater susceptibility to skin cancer. More specifically, squamous cell carcinoma and basal cell carcinoma are more commonly

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diagnosed in males. In addition, men have higher mortality rates from melanoma, when compared with women. Behavioural aspects of men’s lives, as well as gender distinctions in immunity, may explain these differences. Consequently, the need for adequate sun protective strategies and annual skin check-ups should be a priority as well. If the packaging says ‘rich and creamy’, it's not for an oily skin. In addition to a moisturiser, a treatment product to mattify the skin assists greatly. Absorbing your oily shine and working to gently exfoliate is a bonus as it will prevent congestion build up and help to eliminate breakouts. Dermlaogica’s Clearing Mattifier can be applied underneath your daytime moisturiser, specifically on that oily t-zone area to control shine. THE FACTS The average man will shave approximately 20 000 times in his life, using 139 full days. Shaving is to guys what make-up is to most women the only way to face the world on a daily basis. Men shave for varied reasons: for hygiene, to look good and fashionably smooth or to avoid turning into hirsute wonders, but many men suffer with skin irritation, redness, and sensitivity caused by shaving.

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PSUEDOFOLLICULITIS BARBAE Psuedofolliculitis Barbae is a common condition of the bearded area occurring in people with curly hair. The problem results when highly curved hairs grow back into the skin causing the body to recognise this ingrown hair as a foreign body (similar to the way it would a splinter) and triggers an inflammatory response that includes redness, itchiness and a raised area that resembles a pimple that can fill with puss. Treatment: a 100 percent treatment for this condition is to let the beard grow. Once the hairs get to a certain length, they will not grow back into the skin. Also washing the beard area with an abrasive scrub will help raise the hairs from under the skin and prevents them from growing back into the skin. RAZOR BUMPS Razor bumps form when the hair emerges from the follicle and turns and enters an adjacent follicle. The skin responds similarly to an ingrown hair and often produces a keloidal tissue mass over the hair. This results in the characteristic razor bump. Treatment: To help prevent ingrown hairs and razor bumps, start by exfoliating with physical granular polishes and chemical exfoliants prior to shaving. Physical scrubs will help effectively exfoliate and prep the skin’s surface, removing excess surface dead skin cells that keep the hairs embedded in the tissue. Chemical exfoliants,

eg: Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid and Retinol (Vitamin A), will help remove dead skin cells, lift ingrown hairs above the skin line and soften and smooth skin. Salicylic Acid is also an anti-inflammatory agent, which can help calm the skin. For sensitised skin, exfoliate in the evening rather than directly before shaving. RAZOR BURN Razor burn is inflammation of the skin that could classify as Irritant Contact Dermatitis and includes any nicks, scratches and irritation associated with shaving. Razor burn can occur from: • A reaction from certain substances or ingredients. • Shaving too closely and/or too quickly. • Inadequate lubrication during shaving. • Shaving against the grain of the hair (against the direction of the hair growth). • Shaving over already irritated or sensitised areas. • Applying too much pressure during shaving (which only facilitates the removal of skin cells, resulting in excess friction and irritation). • Shaving with a blunt blade (a sharp blade will require less pressure). • Water. The symptoms of razor burn are burning, itching, stinging and redness. Razor burn can be just a few hours of mild discomfort and redness or it can last for days, resembling a rash or scratch that

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remains inflamed. It can manifest into a serious problem if the irritation evolves into infected breakouts or blisters. Treatment: Ingredients including Wheat Germ, Yeast Extract, Tocopherol (Vitamin E and its derivatives), Soybean Oil, Shea Butter, Jojoba Seed Oil, Evening Primrose Oil and Silicones will help protect the skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natural barrier layer, helping to combat the irritation, reddening and mechanical peeling associated with razor burn. Look for products with Licorice, Green Tea, White Tea, Chamomile, Aloe Vera, Panthenol, Caffeine, Bisabolol, Comfrey and Allantoin to calm skin while promoting skin repair and fighting free radical damage. COARSE, HEAVY BEARDS Depending upon genetics, ethnicity and hormones, a male client may have a heavy or tough beard. Heavier beards are more challenging to shave, as the hair shaft offers more resistance, frequently clogs the razor or the razor is not sharp enough to cut through the hair, causing painful scraping and tugging. Therefore, men with heavier beards are more likely to suffer from stinging,

redness, nicks and cuts. In order to ease the discomfort associated with shaving a heavier beard, the beard must be softened and lifted, and the skin must be protected. Ideally, use a pre-shaving medium that is applied underneath a shaving cream that softens and lifts the beard while protecting the skin. It should provide a cushion between the razor and the skin. The mere application and massaging of a pre-shave medium onto the beard will help lift the beard hairs. For men with heavy, coarse beards, it is feasible for them to shave against the grain, but only after first shaving with the grain (in the same direction as the hair growth). After the first pass the hair is shorter and less likely to curl back in on itself, minimising chances for ingrown hairs. After the initial shave with the grain, however, re-apply all necessary shaving mediums before shaving against the grain. Treatment Look for pre-shaving or shaving products that include: Camphor: a natural antiseptic that helps firm skin to lift the beard. Clove Flower Oil: helps open

the pores while softening the beard to prevent scraping and tugging of the hair. Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate: add additional lubricity and hydration during shaving. Wheat Germ Extract and Yeast Extract: combat irritation and redness while reinforcing the barrier lipid layer. EDUCATE YOUR MEN! Men must understand that there is more to shaving than just shaving. Not only do they need to consider their beard type, they need to consider their skin condition as well. It is important to select an adequate shaving system with products that will assist with pre-shave, mid-shave and postshave, always wear sunscreen over freshly-shaved skin and shave properly. Skincare neednâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be complicated and comes with a wealth of benefits that help to improve overall skin health. A prolonged daily routine will make a real difference to the condition of any male skin type and ward off not only a lot of common skin issues but also ones that arise as a result of inattention. E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 75

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r o nd u

Hair

trending

tabl e ESTETICA SA chats to two local stylists for their opinion on what is popular in men’s styling for 2013.

uy’s hairstyles go through a few specific trends and are repeated every few years. What was fashionable in the 80s and 90s is making a comeback, being reinvented, with tweaks here and there to give it a more updated feel. Cape Town based stylists, John Scott and Marios Atzemoglou offer readers insight into this season’s trendiest hairstyles and how to tame the long-haired man that wants less fuss.

What is the key to good men’s hairstyling?

Marios Atzemoglou, Marios Company For Hair owner, Cape Town

A haircut that suits the face and lifestyle of the individual is always key. Using good hair products always help to achieve the desired look. Therefore, it is important to choose products that will compliment your daily routine and maybe something extra for that special occasion or hairdo. Is there any specific style that you would recommend for the extreme male fashionista out there? John Scott, 8.hair stylist, Cape Town

John Scott, 8.hair stylist, Cape Town

As with all gents’ styles, simplicity is key. Don’t overcomplicate things, stick to the basics.

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I would definitely recommend what I call the ‘new age gentleman style’, short at the back and on the sides with length on top. This style has been around for a few years and is reigniting the trend for smart sleek hair among guys. When styling the hair its useful to prep the hair with something like Label.M Volume Mousse. Apply to the hair when wet, then dry the hair with a dryer

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R O U N D

T A B L E

o i n i n p

Marios Atzemoglou, Marios Company For Hair owner, Cape Town

Trends often change, but short, shaven sides with volume on the top is very popular at the moment. You can create various looks with this cut using different products. A strong gel can be used to comb it back and give it that wet sleek look or you can blow dry it straight and wear it to the side. Use a good dry paste or spray wax to create a bit of volume. Besides the smooth and ultragroomed look, long hair still seems to be a popular choice for men. What advice can you offer the long-haired man that wants less styling fuss? John Scott, 8.hair stylist, Cape Town

Long hair on guys is still a big trend due to the influence of the indie music scene and bands such as Kings of Leon and Gangs of Ballet. It is quite low maintenance

as long as it is kept simple when cutting and layering is kept square and to a minimum. When styling, a simple spritz of Sea Salt Spray to wet hair and rough drying while pulling the hair into direction with the fingers is all thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s needed. The natural look works best with this cut.

shaped head to pull it off. Guys with shaved heads must take extra care of their scalp as it is exposed to severe conditions, like the sun. They must continue to shampoo the scalp with good quality products to feed the hair follicles for healthy growth should they wish to grow their hair again in the future.

Marios Atzemoglou, Marios Company For Hair owner, Cape Town

The benefit of long hair is that you can get away with wearing it a bit messy, tuck it behind the ear or gel it back for a sleek look with very little fuss. If the client has more curly or frizzy hair I would recommend doing a Brazilian Treatment that will leave the hair more manageable and easy to wear. It is important to take good care of long hair, have the ends trimmed regularly and use products for anti-oiliness as long hair can easily appear oily. Is there a place for the shaved head in todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s style stakes? John Scott, 8.hair stylist, Cape Town

Yes, shaved hair is still cool, but it must be cut well and your barber needs to have a good fading skill to really make this work. If you want to create the shaved look into some length on the top, then make sure the fading is clean and sharp and that no lines are visible. Marios Atzemoglou, Marios Company For Hair owner, Cape Town

The shaved head always looks sexy, but you must have a good

and use a comb to give the hair a backward direction or to part the hair if needed. Once dry, apply a small amount of pomade give it that defined, sleek look.

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Friends of

Valkenberg Industry leaders are making a difference in the lives of people in need of some pampering and grooming. The Friends of Valkenberg Trust gives thanks to Goldwell Hair Products for their generous donation to a worthy cause.

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C O M M U N I T Y

2007 study by the Medical Research Council of South Africa revealed that one in six South Africans struggle with a mental disorder. Living with a mental illness requires great courage as it affects many areas of one’s life. The Friends of Valkenberg Trust (Friends) was started in 1994 out of an understanding of this and a vision to improve the quality of life for the patients and staff who come to Valkenberg Psychiatric Hospital in Cape Town. Through its 40-plus volunteers, Friends works in conjunction with hospital staff to provide a range of services designed to bring hope and comfort to patients during their stay at Valkenberg, meeting needs and helping patients along the road to recovery. At the same time, Friends also creates awareness of Valkenberg Psychiatric Hospital and its work, and aims to proactively eliminate the stigma that is still associated with mental illness. Valkenberg Psychiatric Hospital serves adults from a diverse area of more than a million people in the Western Cape – from Simon’s Town to Nyanga, Grassy Park to Atlantis. Most come from disadvantaged communities. Many have little family or community support and will be in hospital for a number of weeks. Since 1994, Friends has been based on the hospital premises, successfully delivering an immediate and sensitive service to patients and staff. This not only meets their needs, but assists in restoring patients’ self-esteem and an easier return to the community. People with mental disabilities are able to recover from severe and persistent mental illness and live satisfying lives. However, they do need support and Friends needs people to partner with them to give patients the help they need to get back on their feet. “When we give cheerfully and accept gratefully, everyone is blessed.” – Maya Angelou. Friends give thanks to Goldwell, one of their generous sponsors of the hair salon based in the hospital and available to the patients every Wednesday. “Thank you so much for Goldwell’s very generous and thoughtful donation of tint and conditioner that we received recently. It is donations like the one that you just made that allows us to support the patients of Valkenberg Psychiatric Hospital and improve their quality of life, as well as assist in their recovery process

while they are here. Your kindness and compassion certainly do not go unnoticed and is making a positive difference in the lives of many,” says Patricia Francis, project co-ordinator at Friends of Valkenberg. “As you know, your donation is being distributed to our hair salon. This is a service that many patients have not had in a very long time and it allows them to improve their feelings of self-worth and esteem, While taking care of their personal hygiene and appearance, which are essential in improving their health. There is a striking difference in their mood from the time they enter the salon to when they are finished, as it allows them to have a bit of pampering and a much needed hair wash and cut. Things that we often take for granted in our own lives. It is these little daily indulgences that can completely brighten their day and refresh their outlook on their life and treatment at Valkenberg,” continues Patricia. During the last year they were able to expand their services by adding five new groups which include self-defence, an afternoon games group, staff aerobics, gardening and sewing. These groups, as well as existing programmes, were made possible because of the wonderful volunteers and donors who have given their time, donations and financial contributions to Friends of Valkenberg. ESTETICA SA would like to thank everyone, including Goldwell, for their compassion and generosity.

“When you give cheerfully and accept gratefully, everyone is blessed.”

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World

Style Christilene Erasmus won the coveted local Davines World Style Contest with her beautiful French antique doll-inspired look.

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ocal hairstylists were given the opportunity to express their creativity in a fun and colourful hair competition. Once a year, Davines hosts the World Style Contest where each country is in charge of hosting a photographic competition for their stylists. Finalists are then chosen to take part in an onstage competition. Competitors were required to use only Davines products, be as creative as possible and have a behind-the-scenes video.

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E V E N T S

The exciting and extremely anticipated local event took place at the Carlton Hair Academy in Johannesburg on Sunday evening, 13 January 2013. Judges for the evening had the hard task of selecting a winner; however, the quality of work produced by the frontrunner made it an obvious decision. Christilene Erasmus, from Headcandy in Port Elizabeth, scooped first place with her French antique doll-inspired look. Christilene is no newcomer to the hairdressing competition arena, having entered and won top competitions prior to this amazing achievement.

Davines South Africa’s runner-up was Nicola Melidonis from Wyatt Hairdressing, followed in third place by Alex Mayer from Carlton Hair in La Lucia. Christilene’s work has been sent to Davines International, and she will hopefully go on to be selected for the finals at the Davines World Wide Hair Tour to be hosted later this year in Paris. If Christilene’s winning work is chosen, she receives an all-expenses paid trip to showcase her work.

This competition is an amazing platform for winners. Candice Wyatt-Minter, a previous winner in 2010, has gone on to showcase her collections all around the world, representing Davines. A special thank you to the judges, contestants and models – without their passion for the hairdressing crafts this prestigious event wouldn’t have been possible.

The competition is an amazing platform for winners.

Once a year, Davines hosts the World Style Contest.

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Wella projects A mid-term project and an overview of 2012 focused on colour with the launch of Illumina Color. Plus services, education and new technologies. Our interviews with Sylvie Moreau and Kevin Otero, respectively General Manager and VP of Global Operations, Wella, Salon Professional Division. by Roberto Pissimiglia

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SYLVIE MOREAU

What is your vision of colour?

Wella is known for our colour excellence and have the reputation of being the must-have colour for many leading colourists. Our vision is to bring Wella Color and the services salons provide to a whole new level in terms of colour results, creative possibilities and client experiences. We want to delight stylists and clients alike by inventing products and services they dreamt of, but never thought possible! We have seen all this with Illumina Color, according to all the initial feedback. I think it really ticks all the boxes. It will be amazing for the industry. Our next big idea is a breakthrough invention in Color Services, Color ID from Wella Professionals, which will revolutionise multi-tonal.

KEVIN OTERO

How would you assess 2012 for Wella and the industry?

So far 2012 looked like a tough year economically for some of our salon partners. You may know that we started implementing a salon client study in 2009, where we cover a panel in nine countries. The reading we did in May 2012 showed female client visits in total decreased in eight of the nine countries we monitor, with the exception of the UK. The other eight countries we monitor are Brazil, China, Germany, Italy, Japan, Russia, Spain, and the US. Colour was also down. This is obviously a worrying sign for the industry in those countries, but we also see this as an opportunity to support our salons and help them grow even in tough times. It couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be a better time for us

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I N T E R V I E W

linkoniPad

“Education is a strategic area. We have made excellent progress and intend to continue investing in it.” colour services in salons. We wanted to put two colours next to each other without them bleeding. It took a lot of hard work, but we succeeded. What are the main trends influencing the industry today?

The first mega trend is that people are prepared to go to extremes to be beautiful, pushing the boundaries and the limitations of physical beauty. One of the fields of research we are actively working on is enabling colour transformations that are not possible today. Other inventions are anti-thinning or delaying grey. The other major trend is that the image we create is our social capital: people are more conscious about the way they present themselves to the world around them, especially in the digital world. It invites the industry and the stylists to go beyond hair and become identity designers, consulting on a total look and providing clients with a repertoire of personages they can be. This

to be introducing Illumina Color. Early feedback is that salons with Illumina are bucking the negative trend. We are also doing very well, as our fiscal year started in July and we’ve been growing in most regions or, more specifically, 16 of our top 20 countries. What has Wella developed for the future of education?

Education is really the cornerstone of the industry. It’s an area we recognise as strategic, continue to invest in and have made big progress in. This is why we brought a new global leader – Michelle Mason – and we’ve been investing significantly in other resources to continue to develop in that area. For example, three of our studios were renovated and improved this year. We upgraded the Studio in Berlin and the Studio in Milan, and we added a new Studio in India, in Delhi. We can now bring in people from other parts of the globe, they can potentially participate, and information and pictures from the class can all be shared on portals afterwards. We also started trying

challenges us to work on all the digital aspects of consultation, but also to develop some products to enable those on-off transformations. What if tonight I could have a peachy blond hair and tomorrow at work I could have an ashy silver sharp look? This trend also forces us to bend the way we think about time today to enable these on-off transformations. What role does service play for Wella?

Service is everything for Wella. I always say to my team, “remember, our job is to serve great brands, products, services and programmes to the sales rep and the educators in the markets, who then serve the salons, who then serve the client.” What was your impression of ESTETICA as media partner of the ‘Thank you, Mom’ campaign and Illumina Color launch?

Having ESTETICA and Wella partner was obvious, as ESTETICA is the biggest network globally, recognised and present everywhere, like Wella is. The ‘Thank you, Mom’ project during the Olympics was an amazing adventure. It was just magical. It was awesome.

ESTETICANetwork with Sylvie Moreau and Kevin Otero, in the centre of both photos. ESTETICANetwork Publisher Roberto Pissimiglia conducted the interviews in the presence of the editors and editors-in-chief of the Korea, Czech&Slovak, France, Greece, Italy, Russia, Spain, and Turkey editions of ESTETICA.

new technologies to help educate our own organisation with technology by deploying iPads: we now have 3 500 active users and we’ve done 10 000 colour seminars over the past year. What are your projects for 2013?

The new Color ID service is going to require a whole set of new techniques. Right now they’ve got their hands full with classes on Illumina Color. There is huge demand for our classes and our education folks have to build extra capacity to keep up with this demand. In Germany, they’re now doing sessions in the morning and in the evening to keep up with the current demand. Find the full interviews on the ESTETICANetwork website www.esteticanetwork.com E S T E T I C A S O U T H A F R I C A | 83

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Paula’s

Penchant

Once an aspiring actress and model, Paula Kent Meehan quickly became a hair industry icon. Even now, she still keeps a finger on the pulse, but dedicates most of her time to her ‘pet’ worthy cause. by Marie Scarano

fter a brief stint in show business, Paula Kent launched her business career in 1960 as the co-founder of Redken with friend and chemist Jheri Redding, a groundbreaking brand among the first to introduce chemically balanced products with transparent labeling as well as hairdresser training. In 1962, she bought Redding’s interest in the company. Small wonder this powerhouse of a lady is mentioned in countless who’s who, including Business Week’s ‘100 Top Corporate Women’, Entrepreneurial Woman’s ‘Eight Most Powerful Woman Business Owners’ and one of the ‘Top Fifty Women Business Owners’ by Working Woman magazine. Did your early experience in show business help you to develop a sharper business sense?

Only in finding an interest and motivation far in excess of wanting to be an actress. Those creative desires were overcome by logic and I was motivated for a business based on logic. My father was an accountant, and I was always good at it and liked numbers. You are also a good judge of character. How do you choose the people you do business with?

In selecting a person I want to do business with, it is important to analyse what they were before and what their desires are for the future. Jheri Redding was my hairdresser who motivated me to learn more about hair structure, inspiring me to make products that improved hair condition. I was very lucky to have found Jheri Redding – he was my Linus Pauling of hair. How did the concept of the Redken ‘Scientific Approach to Beauty’ come about?

Trying to understand hair structure and the effects of hair condition on the hair was the motivation for the scientific approach to beauty. I would become single-tracked regarding hair structure, hair condition, what helped it and what hurt it, which is one of the reasons the pH of hair became so important in developing acid balance formulas for Redken products.

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I N T E R V I E W

and creatures in general. Hair stylists care and are concerned about their clients and worldwide conditions. So it simply follows that they would certainly be concerned about animal rescue programmes.

You were also a pioneer in marketing and education, training stylists about the products themselves and retailing techniques for professional hair care products.

When you are marketing a product that absolutely requires hair and product knowledge, you share your passion for hair education, products and structures with stylists. Hair stylists are in turn motivated to learn more about hair structure and products. Their interest and knowledge then inspires them to develop new concepts and achieve fantastic results.

What are you up to nowadays?

I personally support a variety of pet charities that focus on spaying, neutering and adoption. I currently have a Foundation called Pets 90210, which is very actively involved in pet adoptions at Roxbury Park in Beverly Hills, on the internet and television. My float in the Rose Parade on 1 January, 2013 is a major project in my life right now. My friends, company, and I believe this will have international impact because the theme is ‘Adopt a Pet’. It is certain to be a success because I am well aware that hairdressers already support, and will communicate to their clients, both on a local and international basis, many issues and pay great attention to the care and adoption of pets and all pet projects, so it would seem that no encouragement is needed. Hairdressers care.

Do you have any memorable anecdotes about any of the iconic hairdressers you’ve met during your career?

I was obviously inspired when I read about Vidal Sassoon and the audiences he attracted in London. My favourite story of Vidal Sassoon was my panic over his desire to be driven in a limousine and my desire to have him take the bus. Why are initiatives like the Hollywood Hair Design Council and Global Salon Business Awards so important?

The Global Salon Business Awards reflect my great desire to have salons recognised not only for their creative talents, but also for their business and financial management, for the methods they developed to control and increase their business. Why are hairdressers an effective channel for promoting initiatives like your animal rescue programmes?

During my Redken life and today, I have always felt that hairdressers have great empathy for their clients

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“I would become single-tracked regarding hair structure... what helped it and what hurt it...”

Paula Kent Meehan

Paula Kent Meehan with some of her many friends – both furry and not – over the years.

2012

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Reports on smashing events, and looking forward to worldwide gatherings, events, and competitions

REPORT

26-28 January 2013 ISSE Long Beach 2013 Long Beach - www.probeauty.org/isse

The 2013 edition of the International Salon and Spa Expo Long Beach welcomed a dynamic crowd of about 40 000 beauty professionals from all corners of the globe ready to celebrate the Professional Beauty Association’s concept that has evolved beyond a traditional “hair show” to include nails, cosmetics, wellness, advanced education and more. Attendees were treated to more than 100 complimentary educational opportunities and the North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA) Stage, featuring Martin Parsons and other NAHA winners. The EstheticsAmerica & Wellness venues were expanded and emphasis was once again on charity, including the Professional Beauty Associations Disaster Relief Fund, CUT IT OUT, Sally Beauty and other scholarships. Hair and nails competitions were a favourite with the crowds, acknowledging deserving talent.

REPORT

8-11 March 2013 Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna Bologna – www.cosmoprof.it

The 2013 Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna focused on all distribution channels, guaranteeing the attendance of buyers and distributors in the perfumery and cosmetics sector and plenty of B2B opportunities with international buyer/distributor delegations from emerging markets. The message was sent out to BRICs (Brazil, Russia, India, China), the United States, the Middle East and Europe, thanks to considerable investment in the foreign press of the perfumery and cosmetics industries to target specific audiences. The Packaging, Beauty & Spa, Nails and Hair sectors all enjoyed new locations and a new floor plan facilitated browsing. This year’s Cosmoprof once again presented events such as On Hair, Esthetiring (for massage), Hair Ring, Extraordinary Gallery (for special ‘niche’ products) andCountry Pavilions. There was also The New Talent, a contest designed to encourage new talented youngsters.

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A G E N D A

June

28-30 May 2013 Beauty World Middle East

1-3 Premiere Orlando

Dubai – www.beautyworldme.com

On the world panorama, few trade events can match the impact of Beautyworld Middle East on the beauty industry, where thousands of savvy business visitors come to look for products and services. Over its 16 editions, the event has evolved steadily – but surely – into a one-stop representation of the global beauty, hair, fragrance and wellness industries for the Middle East region, and has played a pivotal role in their growth and development. Organised by the Messe Frankfurt group, one of the top trade fair organisers in the world, Beautyworld Middle East is renowned wide and large as a leading fair for beauty products, hair, fragrances and wellbeing both in the Middle East and worldwide. A truly international event, Beautyworld Middle East offers trade visitors the opportunity to meet over 800 companies in a one-stop venue.

May 19-20 Intercoiffure Spring Symposium

Orlando (USA)

www.premiereorlandoshow.biz

8-10 Hair Expo Australia Sydney (Australia)

www.hairexpoaustralia.com

9-10 Hair & Beauty

Frankfurt (Germany)

www.hair-beauty.messefrankfurt.com

22-24 IBS Las Vegas Las Vegas (USA)

www.ibslasvegas.com

Book now for your favourite show or event. Be there. Inspire others. Be inspired.

Hollywood, FL (USA) www.intercoiffure.us

26-28 Davines World Wide Hair Tour Paris (France)

http://news.davines.com

27 Hair Days 13

Zurich (Switzerland) www.coiffuresuisse.ch

28-30 Beauty World Middle East

1-3 June 2013 Premiere Orlando

Orlando – www.premiereorlandoshow.biz If it’s education you’re looking for, look no further! With more than 180 classes on hair, 75 on nail techniques, 50 on business topics, and over 80 classes on skin care, Premiere Orlando is where you want to be. Here you can hone your barbering, extension and weave techniques, colouring skills and more. It is also a great venue for networking with fellow beauty professionals in all sectors while checking out what’s new in products, trends and techniques on the exhibition floor. All these valuable benefits gained from browsing the floor and attending classes – all of which are included in your show registration – can help you evolve as a professional and boost your salon business!

Dubai (United Arab Emirates) www.beautyworldme.com

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Acqua for Life Campaign

New ambassador for iconic male fragrance

Yves Saint Laurent Beauté is pleased to announce that Garrett Hedlund is the new ambassador of the men’s fragrance La Nuit De L’Homme. “Yves Saint Laurent expresses a unique style between elegance and freedom, sophistication and daring. The brand embodies the spirit of a very strong and virile man, who also assumes his great sensitivity. Garrett Hedlund expresses this duality to perfection. He has also taken on some real cinematic challenges which show a man with a strong personality fully assuming his choices and convictions,” says Stephan Bezy, International General Manager of Yves Saint Laurent Beauté. American actor Hedlund was born in Minnesota and was just 18 when he won a role in the epic film Troy in 2004, directed by Wolfgang Petersen. Playing opposite Brad Pitt, he portrayed Patroclus, Achilles’ impetuous cousin. Hedlund’s subsequent selection of movie roles went on to reveal a profound personality, an artistic sensibility and a strong capacity to play a wide range of characters. Today, Hedlund is renowned as one of Hollywood’s most promising new talents.

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The Giorgio Armani Acqua for Life campaign launched on 22nd March, World Water day, and ran until the end of April 2013. Throughout this period, 100 litres of drinking water was donated with every purchase of a fragrance from the Acqua franchise, with the purchaser logging on to the Acqua for Life Facebook page to make their donation. In addition, every new “like” on the Facebook page automatically donated 50 litres of water which can provide a child with 200 days of clean drinking water. This year Giorgio Armani collaborated with Pantone to create the ‘Giorgio Armani Acqua for Life’ blue. Thanks to Plascon, the Lions Club row boats at Zoo Lake were painted in this special colour. In addition to the local contribution to the global campaign, Giorgio Armani South Africa has also donated a rain water harvesting system to the Lawley Primary School. Access to water remains a constant struggle at the school and through this campaign, the school will now have on going access to clean drinking water for the children – an imperative to create a nurturing learning environment.

Blow dry bar

Who doesn’t want gorgeous hair at an affordable price in the quickest possible time? Tanaz Hair, Body & Nails is now offering their usual full house of hair and beauty treatments, as well as the convenience of an affordable express blow dry. Inspired by the ‘blow dry bar’ trend taking the US, the UK and Australia by storm, Tanaz has included the Express Blow Dry as part of their extensive menu of services. The Express Blow Dry includes a quick wash and blow dry that is done within an average of 30 minutes, accommodates all types of hair and costs a reasonable R130. The service is on a first-come-first-serve basis, allowing clients to pop in and out any time to be groomed and pampered.

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N E W S

Foundation Guillaume photo competition

Lancôme puts on a show

Lancôme is delighted to announce an exceptional collaboration with one of the most highly-acclaimed names in fashion: Alber Elbaz. More than any other designer, he has shown his ability to renew conceptions of femininity with a simultaneously quirky and couture style, creating a breed of luxury that is definitively contemporary. His approach is naturally in tune with Lancôme, a brand symbolic of joyful femininity. “Alber Elbaz is, without a doubt, one of the world’s most influential fashion designers, but, beyond that, he is also the most talented,” explains Youcef S. Nabi, Lancôme President. “His sense of luxury, his vision of femininity and that hint of audacity resonate perfectly with the new values of the Maison Lancôme. We are extremely proud and happy that, with us, he is set to channel his universe into the world of make-up for the very first time.” The deeply audacious Lancôme Alber Elbaz collection will be unveiled on 15 June 2013 worldwide and 16 September 2013 in South Africa at select Lancôme counters.

Foundation Guillaume is the youth of Intercoiffure, consisting mostly of junior stylists working in the Intercoiffure salons. Once a year a platform is created for younger stylists (under 27 years of age) to perform at the Intercoiffure International Annual General Meeting. In September this year, juniors will get together in Paris for a week. A generous sponsor, Schwarzkopf, has made it possible for two local junior stylists to attend this forum. In order for Intercoiffure South Africa to select two delegates, a photographic competition has been created. The theme this year was Dichotomy: The universe exists in a dichotomy, a harmonious dichotomy of the mutually exclusive and jointly exhaustive binary self. From male to female, good to evil, life to death, without one there can be no other. Winners will be announced in the fourth edition of ESTETICA Afro.

YSL Manifesto Fragrance

Manifesto is an Yves Saint Laurent declaration of femininity – and as with everything that is YSL, it is not the traditional interpretation of the word. YSL encourages women to break the rules, to subvert the status quo and create a new expression of femininity. It is for women who believe in intuition, boldness and desire. Spontaneous, she prefers the exception to the rule. She toys with the codes of society and asserts herself with a sincerity that is contagious.The inspired campaign for Manifesto stars the beautiful Jessica Chastain, who embodies all that Manifesto stands for. A critically acclaimed actress, Chastain won the Golden Globe for Best Actress for her role in Zero Dark Thirty (directed by Oscarwinning The Hurt Locker director, Kathryn Bigelow) as a CIA operative in the hunt for Osama bin Laden.

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Pulse Salon signs Brad Jay to sponsorship for 2013 Pulse Salon, an intimate boutique salon, is proud to announce its sponsorship agreement with Brad Jay, ambassador of numerous prestigious brands, fitness trainer and model. Having recently celebrated their second birthday, Pulse Salon is delighted to be entering into an integrated partnership with someone who is extremely passionate about the local and international fashion world that he lives in, in order to further consolidate its presence in the region. Jay is a pioneer in the fashion and fitness industry who displays deep style and creativity, which makes him the perfect muse. “Hair is a defining characteristic, thus the decision to get involved with the brand felt right on so many levels – one of which is their passion and vision for creating a unique expression for each occasion,” commented Jay. As the ambassador of Dranged SA, the Guvon Hotel chain and Virgin Active, Jay will make appearances at prestigious events and engage in social media activation across his own channels as well as the brand’s dedicated sites.

Icon Warriors

Icon Hair Cosmetics took part in a great adventure when they decided to enter the first Warrior race at Stoke City in Midrand for a team-building event on 10 February 2013. The Warrior race is a six kilometre run with 15 obstacles, including deep mud pits, barb wire, and a six metre jump from a high platform. The company entered a ladies and gents team, with the guys impressing with a race completion time of one hour and 13 minutes and the ladies in one hour and 55 minutes. The Icon team experienced plenty of sweat and tears but were proud of their great accomplishment.

The Dermal Authority

Dermalogica has launched an exciting programme aimed at supporting the professional make-up artist industry. Realising the close relationship between skin care and make-up, Dermalogica has developed the Dermal Authority, which offers make-up artists access to workshops, skin education, informed and dynamic services, product benefits, rewards and incentives. In return, the make-up artist is able to offer expert advice on skin care to their clients and have the advantage of working with a premium skin care brand, as well as benefiting from discounts and special promotions.

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P R O D U C T S

MEN RESHADE HYBRID FOAM TECHNOLOGY The innovative Men ReShade Hybrid Foam Technology from Goldwell combines the easy application of foam with the natural results of oxidative colour technology. A colour service as easy as shampooing with natural-looking results and transparent grey blending. Colour components are mixed in the foam applicator bottle, and are quick and easy to apply at the shampoo bowl due to its foam consistency. The colour delivers a refreshed, youthful look men desire, with no visible regrowth or warm reddish tones after shampooing.

MALE GROOMING THICKENING SHAMPOO Trevor Sorbie Male Grooming Thickening Shampoo is a lightweight formula that cleans the hair whilst making it feel and look thicker. High quality cleansing agents remove excess oils, dirt or styling products from the hair and gives the appearance of fullness. The hair is left looking healthy and shiny.

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N째8 QUICK SETTING HARD GEL FOR WIZARDS This Quick Setting Hard Gel for Wizards from Davines styles and finishes, providing strong structure and control with a soft sheen. It allows for easy moulding and definition, as well as texture. The gel is suitable for all hair types, especially short styles.

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EXPANSION PASTE The flexible moulding Expansion Paste from Gary Rom Hairdressing will allow you to be able to create different styles throughout the day. Rub a small amount into the hands and work through the hairstyle as usual. The product can be applied to damp or dry hair.

ULTRA-MOIST DEEP DEEP MOISTURE HAIR MASK Bring dry, dehydrated hair back to life with Giovanniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dual moisture complex of avocado and olive oil. Avocado oil contains essential fatty acids, which help restore suppleness and flexibility, while olive oil deeply penetrates the hair follicle for the deepest possible hydration. Get intense nourishment and nurturing with the Avocado and Olive Oil Ultra-Moist Deep Deep Moisture Hair Mask. The rich formula improves rough texture and makes hair touchable. Avocado oil beads add an extra dose of nourishment and will not fade colour. This product is ideal for hair that is heat-styled often.

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B FOR MEN CLEAN UP DAILY SHAMPOO & PEPPERMINT CONDITIONER Clean the hair and remove product build-up while stimulating and refreshing the scalp with the Bed Head Clean Up Daily Shampoo and Peppermint Conditioner. Sunflower seeds, saw palmetto and lemongrass extracts, along with menthol, contribute to healthy hair growth.

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P R O D U C T S

CANDY COLLECTION The ghd Candy Collection, inspired by the retro and zingy pastels which graced the Spring/Summer 2013 catwalks, will be available in selected salons. The latest addition to the ghd family is available in three cute colours â&#x20AC;&#x201C; mint, yellow and violet â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and is sure to add a sweet twist to your styling routine this autumn. The award-winning ghd IV professional styler boasts ceramic heat technology to straighten and smooth hair, as well as a rounded body to help you create perfect curls and waves.

HEATED ROLLER SET The Hands Down Distribution Heated Roller Set will give you simple, fast and hot curlers in six seconds. The kit consists of 12 various size rollers, 12 thermal clips and the heater unit. A roller is placed into the heater unit and, when it is warm, it is curled into the hair, allowing stylists to work at their own pace. The induction heat technology allows the rollers to transfer heat to the hair while remaining cool to the touch. The larger rollers are great for creating bigger, bouncier and soft curls. Additional rollers in various sizes can be purchased separately.

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FHI HEAT HOT SAUCE The exclusive jojoba formula in the FHI Heat Hot Sauce penetrates deeply into the hair follicle when used with thermal styling tools, providing deep conditioning and repairing past damage. Heat-activated jojoba crystals penetrate the follicle, leaving the hair shiny, soft and silky without any surface residue. Use on damp hair and finish with any heat styling tool to protect against heat damage.

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ESTETICA INTERNATIONAL NETWORK Advertising broker PUBLIMATIC s.r.l. Estetica Turkey Head Office: Corso Cairoli, 16 10123 Torino (Italy) Tel.: +39 011 83921113 Fax: +39 011 8171188 info@publimatic.it www.estetica.it Foro Bonaparte, 76 20121 Milano (Italy) Tel.: +39 02 72094900 Fax: +39 02 86995230 info@publimatic.it www.estetica.it Estetica Italia Edizioni Esav Via Cavour, 50 10123 Torino (Italy) Tel.: +39 011 83921111 Fax: +39 011 8125661 info@estetica.it www.estetica.it Estetica Australia & NZ Edizioni Esav Via Cavour, 50 10123 Torino (Italy) Tel.: +39 011 83921249 Fax: +39 011 8125661 e.flaugnatti@estetica.it www.esteticanetwork.com Estetica Brazil Rua Cunha Gago, 412 cj. 33 Pinheiros, 3rd floor, 05421-001 São Paulo SP (Brazil) Tel.: +55 11 2713 8150 Fax: +55 11 30395674 publicidadeesteticabrazil@ duettoeditorial.com.br www.esteticabrazil.com.br Estetica Bulgaria Str. "Gen. Parensov" 24A apartment. 3 1142, Sofia (Bulgaria) Tel.: +359 2 416 85 68 office@estetica-bulgaria.com www.estetica-bulgaria.com Estetica China G/F.Building 2, 876 Jiangsu Road, Shanghai, 200052 (P.R. China) Tel.: +8621 6481 2250 Fax: +8621 6481 2269 renee@esteticachina.com www.esteticachina.com Estetica Czech & Slovak Stefanikova 29 811 03 Bratislava (Slovakia) Tel.: +421 02 5262 4321-3 Fax: +421 02 5262 4321 pecho.ivan@gmail.com www.esteticamagazine.cz Estetica Deutsche Ausgabe Hanauer Landstraße 147 60314 Frankfurt (Germany) Tel.: +49 69 42 72 82 669 Fax: +49 69 42 72 82 777 angelika.knueck@g2.com www.esteticamagazine.de

Estetica España Plaza Dr. Letamendi, 3, 2°, 1a 08007 Barcelona (Spain) Tel.: +34 93 2265910 Fax : +34 93 4196498 publicidad@esteticamodacabello.es www.esteticamagazine.es Estetica France 5, rue du Helder 75009 Paris (France) Tel.: +33 1 53 24 53 24 Fax: +33 1 42602440 estyle@estetica-france.com www.esteticamagazine.fr Estetica Hellas 43 Mikras Asias Str., 152 33, Athens (Greece) Tel.: +30 210 7712400 Fax: +30 210 7785097 direction@direction.gr www.direction.gr Estetica India Unit No. F2B, 2nd floor Mira Corporate Suites, Plot No. 1&2, Ishwar Nagar, Mathura Road, New Delhi – 110065 (India) Tel.: +91 11 43011111 Fax: +91 11 23730511 estetica@maxposure.in www.esteticaindia.in Estetica Indonesia Jl. H.R. Rasuna Said Blok B, Kav 32-33 Jakarta 12910 (Indonesia) Tel.: +62 21 526 6666 ext. 4285 Fax: +62 21 520 9366 estetica@feminagroup.com www.feminagroup.com Estetica Korea CM Building D 3rd Floor 379-26 Hwagok 7dong Gangseo-gu, Seoul (South Korea) Tel.: +82 2 26952255 Fax: +82 2 26064885 cmmedia2003@yahoo.co.kr www.esteticakorea.com Estetica México Eugenia # 27 Dpto. 602 Colonia Nápoles 038100 México DF Tel./Fax: +52 55 6386 6914 pazescobarz@gmail.com www.estetica-latina.com Estetica Middle East Edizioni Esav Via Cavour, 50 10123 Torino (Italy) Tel.: +39 011 83921249 Fax: +39 011 8125661 e.flaugnatti@estetica.it www.esteticanetwork.com Estetica Polska ul. Trakt Lubelski 40c 04-870 Warszawa (Poland) Tel: + 48 601 620 455 Fax: + 48 22 490 94 06 e.cesarz@esteticapolska.pl www.esteticapolska.pl

Estetica Portugal Av. Forças Armadas N°4-S/L/4-B 1600-082 Lisboa (Portugal) Tel.: +351 21 7614500 Fax:+351 21 7614520 revistapenteados@mail.telepac.pt www.edicoesromano.pt

ESTETICA INTERNATIONAL Publisher & Director Roberto Pissimiglia Estetica Network Editorial Director Carla De Meo

Estetica Romania and Republic of Moldova 31, Tudor Vladimirescu Blvd Fed Print Building, 1st floor Sector 5, 050883 Bucharest (Romania) Tel.: +4021 317 90 20 info@estetica.ro www.estetica.ro Estetica Russia Zvezdnyi Blvd., 21 building 3, 6-th floor Moscow 129085 (Russia) Tel. +7 495 6163271 Fax +7 495 6156010 periodika@astrel.ru www.mega-press.ru Estetica South Africa 2nd Floor, Bree Street Studios, No 17 New Church Street, Cape Town (South Africa) Tel: +27 86 000 9590 Fax: +27 21 423 7876 info@estetica.co.za www.estetica.co.za Estetica The Netherlands Wakkerendijk 36b NL - 3755 DC Eemnes (The Netherlands) Tel.: +31 35 6565313 Mob.: +31 653 652519 sales@esteticanl.com www.esteticanl.com

Estetica Network Editor-in-chief Laura Castelli International Editorial Coordinator Fatima Pilone International Editorial Assistant Ludovica Cavalli Editorial Staff Sergi Bancells, Daniela Giambrone, Gary Kelly, Judith Lorenzon, Petra Weinzierl Art Direction Barbara Belletti Layout Manuela Artosi, Paola Baratta, Davide Cardente Licensing Editorial Coordinator Erika Marchese Licensing Manager Elena Flaugnatti Sales Supervisor Italy, France, Germany, Poland, The Netherlands, South Africa Emilio de’ Martino

AD LIST

Estetica Turkey Fulya Mh., Ortaklar Cad. Kanat Apt. No.42C-1 Sisli 34394 Istanbul (Turkey) Tel.: +90 212 272 02 70 Fax: +90 212 275 22 15 estetica@esteticaturkey.com www.esteticaturkey.com

IFC

Estetica UK 4 Bloomsbury Sq, London WC1A 2RL (Great Britain) Tel.: +44 20 7430 2904 estetica.uk@lineone.net www.esteticamagazine.co.uk Estetica USA 139 South Pebble Beach Blvd Suite 107 Sun City Center Florida, 33573 (U.S.A.) Tel./Fax: +1 813 633-2444  esteticausamagazine@verizon.net www.esteticamagazine.com

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Mdg Life Style

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INTERVIEW Wella Projects

INTERVIEW Bonang Matheba COLLECTION Kim Johnson Mizani Inecto EVENT Intercoiffure Education For Life

2013/04/23 9:44 AM

ESTETICA SA is the world’s leading hair, beauty and fashion magazine. Over 128 pages dedicated to the best in local and international talent, trends and news.

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TECHNIQUE

C o l o u r & Te c h n i q u e 2 0 1 2

3 RD E D I T I O N 2 0 1 2

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THE WORLD’S LEADING HAIR FASHION MAGAZINE

Manly Truths

THE WORLD’S LEADING HAIR FASHION MAGAZINE

FEATURE Manly Truths

COLOUR

A F R O

EVENTS Decade of Mastery

N° 2/12 EDITION

N° 21/13 EDITION

N° 3/12 EDITION

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FEATURES dedicated to informing readers about industry topics, trends and relevant business and product information.

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ESTETICA AFRO is an authentic top quality magazine with the main objective to inspire and educate, while showcasing relevant ethnic hair and beauty trends.

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COLOUR & TECHNIQUE supplement presents flexible looks, dynamic colours and the technical details on how to create the looks in step-by-step illustrations.

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S T O C K I S T S

C Catrice (011) 484 9088 Chanel (021) 442 7700 D Davines (011) 646 2420 Danné Montague-King (011) 484 9088 Dikson Professional (021) 657 5859 F FHI Heat (021) 686 1164 Final Touch (011) 791 3385 G Gary Rom Haircare (082) 928 9336 Gelish (011) 447 0659 Giorgio Armani (011) 286 0958 Giovanni (083) 463 8584 ghd (021) 461 2117, www.ghdhair.co.za Goldwell (011) 312 5070 H Hands Down Distribution (021) 657 5859 Head Quarters (011) 839 0009, www.headquarters.co.za

N Neydharting Moor (071) 228 6093 Nimue (011) 656 1111 Nioxin (021) 590 3700 R Redken (011) 286 0700 S Shimansky My Girl™ (021) 486 8158 Stefalux, www.smacs.co.za Stella McCartney (011) 286 0958 T Tigi (011) 305 1600 Tip Top (021) 785 2650 Trevor Sorbie (021) 785 2650 Twincare International (011) 305 1600, www.twincare.co.za U Ultrasun (071) 228 6093 Y Yves Saint Laurent (011) 286 0958

K Keune (011) 791 3644 Kiehl’s (011) 286 0958 L Lamelle (011) 469 3770 Lancôme (011) 286 0958 L’Oréal Professionnel (011) 286 0700, www.loreal.co.za M Matrix (011) 286 0700 Mdg Life Style (021) 657 5859 Medloyd Healthcare (083) 653 2719 Melissa (011) 484 9088 Modern Hair (021) 590 3700

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N° 21/13 EDITION

THE WORLD’S LEADING HAIR FASHION MAGAZINE

EVENTS Decade of Mastery FEATURE Manly Truths INTERVIEW Wella Projects

2 1 ST E D I T I O N 2013

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