Cosmetic News Feb 2011

Page 1

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SPEAKING UP

Discover who will be speaking at the Cosmetic News Expo 2011

NEW KID ON THE BLOCK Find out what leading US dermatologist Tim Flynn had to say about new toxin Bocouture®

SEMI-PERMANENT MAKE-UP SPECIAL

From reconstructive and medical uses to beauty and anti-ageing, we take a look at the world of micropigmentation

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE

LET THERE BE LIGHT At home laser and IPL

FRENCH FANCY

We report on IMCAS 2011

VATS THE WAY TO DO IT Coping with the 20% VAT rise

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EDITOR’S LETTER Welcome to the February issue of Cosmetic News. Last month saw the Cosmetic News team heading off to Paris for the annual IMCAS meeting. While we were there I had the pleasure of interviewing renowned dermatologist Dr Tim Flynn about a head to head study examining Botox® and new toxin on the block Bocouture®. You can read this on pages 28-29 with our two-page IMCAS news report on pages 10-12. I love attending exhibitions as it gives me a chance to catch up with everyone face to face and find out about the latest technologies and developments. The next event I have to look forward to is of course our own Cosmetic News Expo which will take place on May 6 and 7 at the Business Design Centre. Our speaker programme is now shaping up, turn to pages 16-17 to find out who will be presenting as well as everything else you need to know about this not-to-be-missed event. Also in this months issue… Semi-permanent make-up used to be associated purely with the beauty industry but in the last decade advances in techniques and colours have seen the procedure firmly make its mark in the aesthetics market. As part of this month’s Special Feature (p22-26) we will be examining both the cosmetic and corrective uses of semi-permanent make-up and speaking to some of the leading lights in this field. As well as this we will look at how to cope with the 20% VAT increase levied by the government last month (p478) and speak to Marea Brennan Thorns about how she hopes to empower and inspire other nurse practitioners, after becoming one of the first aesthetic nurses in the UK to gain an MSc (p19-20). Vicky

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Editor’s choice

CONTENTS 4

EDITOR’S CHOICE

6

INDUSTRY NEWS

10

NEWS SPECIAL REPORT

14

ON THE SCENE

Vicky Eldridge tries out The Ice Mask

We round up the latest industry news

We report on the 2011 IMCAS meeting in Paris

Out and about in the industry this month

16

EXPO PREVIEW

19

PEOPLE IN PROFILE

22-26

Find out who will be speaking at the event of 2011 – the Cosmetic News Expo We speak to aesthetic nurse Marea Brennan Thorns about how she hopes to inspire and empower other nurse practitioners after becoming one of the first aesthetic nurses in the UK to gain an MSc

SEMI-PERMANENT MAKE-UP SPECIAL

From reconstructive and medical uses to beauty and anti-ageing, we take a look at the world of micropigmentation and speak to some of the UK’s leading technicians in this field

28

Q&A

30

VIEW ON

34

PRODUCT FOCUS

37

CLINICAL STUDY

40

TREATMENT SPOTLIGHT

42 44 47

We speak to top US dermatologist Dr Tim Flynn about the results of a head to head study comparing Botox® and Bocouture® The UK Boutulinum Toxin Group for Aesthetics gives its position statement on the potency of Bocouture versus Botox®

Laser Protection Advisor Godfrey Town on at home laser and IPL devices

Ice Mask Every time I walk round an exhibition I see people relaxing comfortably on a stand with a mask on and every time I vow that I am going to try it out for myself – well at this year’s IMCAS meeting I finally got that chance. The mask in question is The Ice Mask, a product designed to help reduce downtime by minimising bruising and swelling post-treatment. The benefit of ice in reducing swelling, pain and discomfort following any kind of skin or muscle trauma is well documented, not just in the field of aesthetics. Cooling is widely used after both surgical and non-surgical treatments and while ice is an inexpensive way of providing this, it has a number of drawbacks including being too cold, burning the skin and being messy – this is where the Ice Mask comes into it’s own. The principle behind The Ice Mask actually originated from the field of sports medicine, where liquid ice was used on a compression bandage to help with sports related injuries. The same principles were then developed and applied to create a mask (based on a mandate from plastic surgeons) that could provide controlled cooling over the entire face and promote better healing and less downtime. Each medical grade rayon face mask comes in a sterile individual chamber. The chamber is then filled with the Ice Mask Activator (containing Liquid Ice Technology) which allows it to expand. It can then be unfolded and applied gently to the patient’s face and left on for 10 minutes (or until dry). Its controlled cooling works on two levels – initial cooling and deeper cooling. Initial cooling stimulates the capillaries, improving circulation, while deeper cooling helps strengthen the collagen of the skin and tighten the tissue. The Ice Mask can be used either in clinic or at home and is an ideal product to retail within the aesthetic environment as even those who may not require post-procedure cooling can enjoy its relaxing, soothing effects, which was what I certainly did after a hard day walking round an exhibition and a hard nights networking with clients!

We examine the results of a clinical study on epilation efficacy using the Soprano 810-nm diode laser at low fluence Elaine Stoddart on the versatility of electrolysis

PRODUCT NEWS

We round up the latest product news

BUSINESS FOCUS

Marcus Davitt gives us a ‘Dummies Guide’ to print media

BEST PRACTICE

Anna Saprykina on the implications of the 20% VAT rise and how to cope with it

52

DATES FOR THE DIARY

54

DIRECTORY

Training course, conference and meeting dates

Our guide to the manufacturers, suppliers and business services featured in this month’s issue

Charlotte Body Publisher 01268 754 897 charlotte@creativemedialtd.co.uk Vicky Eldridge Editor 01268 754 897 M: 07940 083 677 vicky@creativemedialtd.co.uk Emilia Cops Associate Publisher 01268 754 897 emilia@creativemedialtd.co.uk Peter Johnson, Art Director 01268 754 897 peter.johnson@creativemedialtd.co.uk Loraine Winter Designer 01268 754 897 design@creativemedialtd.co.uk Hollie-Jane Dunwell Account Manager 01268 754 897 hollie.jane@creativemedialtd.co.uk Shauna Peters Production Assistant 01268 754 897 shauna.peters@creativemedialtd.co.uk

DISCLAIMER The editor and the publishers do not necessarily agree with the views expressed by contributors and advertisers nor do they accept responsibility for any errors in the transmission of the subject matter in this publication. In all matters the editor’s decision is final.


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Industry News | Round Up

News In Brief

MAG needs doctors for Rennova trials

Expanded Use of LAP-BAND®

Following the publication of Dr Elisabeth Dancey (right) and Lucy

recommended with an eight to two vote that the

Banks clinical study on Renova for upper check augmentation

FDA extend the currently approved use of the

and facial rejuvenation, Medical Aesthetic Group is inviting a

LAP-BAND® System, Allergan’s gastric band, on

limited number of practitioners to conduct new clinical trials for

the basis of a favorable benefit-risk profile for

the products.

weight reduction in obese adults who have failed

Rennova®, an advanced hyaluronic acid filler is manufactured by

more conservative weight reduction alternatives

CROMA, Austria, who have produced over 15,000,00 HA filler syringes

and have a Body Mass Index (BMI) of at least 35

in the past 10 years. Rennova® has an excellent safety profile and is an exciting addition to the Medical Aesthetic Group portfolio. Rennova® harnesses XPM technology, which submits the gel to processes that make the tridimensional molecular structure of Rennova® more even, stabilised and elastic, with new definite molecular ‘bridges’. These are important characteristics for providing a greater lifting effect, greater duration and greater aesthetic result (up to six to nine months).

The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) Gastroenterology and Urology Devices Panel of the Medical Devices Advisory Committee has

or a BMI ≥30 and at least one comorbid condition. The Committee’s decision followed a review of the currently unmet clinical needs among the obese patient population, as well as 12-month data from a prospective, single-arm, non-randomised, multicenter five-year study involving 149 obese patients.

David Gower, managing director of Medical Aesthetic Group says,

Loyalty scheme

“As our understanding of facial ageing has increased, so has the sophistication of filling techniques and the

Euromedical Systems is pleased to announce a

availability of products to satisfy this new thinking. Rennova fits into this category and we are inviting doctors to

new Loyalty Scheme for customers who receive

come forward to conduct more trials in the UK. Rennova is 25% less expensive than major brand HA fillers, but

product training with the company. If you

because of its excellent production providence and safety profile there is no compromise to the quality of the

book and attend one of Euromedicals product

product making it an attractive proposition for cosmetic doctors.”

training courses you will automatically receive

Full details of the Rennova products can be seen on www.magroup.co.uk. If you are interested in conducting

a 5% discount off all future purchases of those

a clinical trial with Rennova please contact Medical Aesthetic Group for full details on 02380 676 733, or e-mail

products. If you book and attend any one of the

david@magroup.co.uk.

company’s product training courses you will be eligible for a 10% discount off any of our other training courses. The courses are Hamilton Fraser

ASAPS makes predictions for cosmetic surgery in 2011 The American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS) has revealed its predictions for cosmetic surgery in 2011. The predictions are based on interviews with leading plastic surgeons in the US, who are actively involved in cutting edge surgical and non-surgical aesthetic/cosmetic technology. The association says that as the economy continues to improve, demand for facelifts and other facial rejuvenation surgery will increase with people who have been putting off surgery for the past few years because of the economy taking the plunge in 2011. They also predict an increase in the popularity of body contouring after dramatic weight loss, as more and more people seek treatment for obesity and recognise that there will be continued interest in experimental techniques for non-invasive fat removal as a future alternative or adjunct to liposuction surgery. Another predication was that, as the baby boomer generation continues to age, women will be revisiting their surgeons to replace their implants and have breast lifts. The surgeons also said they expected to see a continued increase in the popularity of non-surgical aesthetic medicine and that this market would become ‘stronger than ever’, with applications that cater to all people.

Two awards for Chromogenex Chromogenex has received two awards at the MediWales Innovation awards. The first was the Industry Export award for the highest growth in exports of all medical companies in Wales and the second was the Industry Growth award for top overall sales growth of medical companies in Wales last year. The company has achieved a 149% increase in its exports year on year, the highest level of export growth of medical companies in Wales. With the support of International Business Wales it attended major trade shows and trade missions worldwide and now exports in more than 28 countries. With both the European and American markets being slow the company turned its focus onto the emerging high growth markets of India, Turkey, Middle East and Far East. New markets of Brazil and Hong Kong will contribute in the next 12 months. The company also achieved an 85% increase in total sales. With its global expansion and introduction of two new products it achieved the highest sales growth of all medical companies in Wales. Having been hit by the credit crunch in 2008 and lack of support from the bank, the company continued to invest in new product development and marketing. It restructured the business to match market conditions and grew sales significantly and achieved a major turnaround in profitability.

6

cosmeticnewsuk.com

recognised and are priced to offer excellent value for money. For more information visit: www. euromedicalsystems.co.uk

Ablative CO2 laser mildly effective for Asian skin Fractional ablative carbon dioxide laser resurfacing is minimally to moderately effective in rejuvenating the skin of Asian patients, but causes a higher rate of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation than non-ablative fractional resurfacing, according to a report in the November issue of Lasers in Surgery and Medicine. A Patients recieved full-face treatment with a 10,600nm fractional CO2 laser. Results were mild to moderate improvement in skin texture, skin laxity, wrinkles, enlarged pores and acne scars.


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“Soprano painless hair removal has transformed the laser hair removal experience for our clients. Working with other Lasers too, the Soprano hits all the right notes.” dr patrick Bowler. Founder & medical director of Court House chain of 10 Clinics and co founder of the British association of Cosmetic doctors BaCd.

“We offer a wide range of treatment modalities for clients seeking to remove unwanted hair using technology supplied by ABC lasers. The Soprano XL has enabled us to provide previously unavailable pain-free treatment and successfully include darker skin types in our patient pool. We recommend the Soprano XL without reservation.” dr. peter ilori is the founder of ‘the Beauty society’ - a premier provider of medical spa, aesthetic, dental and specialist orthodontic services.

When opening my new clinic I was looking for a system which stood above the rest. The painless technology from the Soprano XL has opened up a new and increasing market for my business in both Laser Hair Removal and Skin Tightening. One year on, results are excellent and many of our new clients come by word-of-mouth recommendations from our happy clients. dr ravi Jain, BaCd, owner riverbanks Clinic, winner Best new clinic award 2008-2009.

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Industry News | Round Up

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Ulthera climbs up the Google rankings It has been a good start to 2011 for Ulthera. The company, which recently launched its Ultherapy treatment in the UK, has been one of the most talked about new brands in the US, where it ranked the seventh most popular search term on Google, after appearing on a popular TV show. Ultherapy featured on the Dr Oz Show on November 11 2010 and shortly after shot up the Google rankings with ‘Ultherapy’ ranking seventh overall in the 3pm MDT hour on that day. Since the show aired, the terms ‘Ulthera’ and ‘Ultherapy’ have been searched more than 135,000 times on Google and there have been a total of 18,000 unique visitors to Ulthera.com as well as 17,000 unique visitors to Ultherapy.com. A total of 20,000 unique visitors searched for Ultherapy practices on the physician locator. Ultherapy is an non-invasive FDA approved ultrasound treatment for facial rejuvenation. The treatment uses ultrasound energy to specifically target and strengthen the deep foundational layer of tissues of the face. The ability to treat not just the skin but its underlying support, from the inside out, helps to ensure both safe and satisfying results, with no downtime.

Dr Dhunna appears on the Weakest Link Midlands based aesthetic practitioner Dr Dan Dhunna is to appear as a contestant on BBC1’s Weakest Link as part of a special ‘Body Beautiful’ episode, which has already been filmed and will be broadcast later this year. Dr Dhunna, who has his own company Skin ETC with clinics around the midlands and also works with Courthouse Clinics, was amongst other contestants whose claim to fame sits within the ‘body beautiful’ industry and media. Speaking about acid-tongued host Anne Robinson, Dr Dhunna said, “Anne was a little probing and fierce, but I used my charm offensive to soften her up, she was very nice! I met some very interesting people and one very famous person whilst filming the episode and it was great fun!” 65-year-old Robinson has admitted to having had Botox® as well as a face-lift five years ago, which cost her the price of ‘one and a half Hermes bags’. When asked whether he thought Robinson has had any recent youthboosting treatments, Dr Dhunna said,“I didn’t get that close to her as she stands behind the quiz master’s lectern, with great authority, so I couldn’t possibly comment, other than she looked very well and healthy in the flesh!”

International Academy of Body Contouring and Laser Lipolysis announces 2011 programme

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The International Academy of Body Contouring and Laser Lipolysis has announced its programme for 2011.The association, which now has 90 members, offers basic and advanced training in the field of laser lipolysis and runs workshops throughout the year. Events are open to both doctors working in the field of body contouring as well as people who are interested in the opportunity to learn more about the latest developments and innovations in this field. Particularly anticipated is the scheduled summer academy ‘body and face’ which will take place in Germany. Over the course of several days there will be the opportunity for intensive dialogue about treatment experiences with the speakers, surgical demonstrations and the presentation of innovations. For the first time, the topic of body contouring will be extended. It will include not only volume reduction but also augmentation. The treatment of small areas (like face, neck) will be reflected as well in order to offer patients individual overall solutions utilising combined therapies. A further highlight of 2011 will be the five Continent congress ‘Lasers and Aesthetic Medicine’ in Cannes, France at the beginning of September, where the topic of body contouring will be very prominent. Apart from a welcome reception, the Academy of Body Contouring will initiate different talks and workshops as well as a round-table discussion on the topic.

Facial Bones Show Signs of Ageing Too says study Wrinkles and sagging result not just from changes in the skin, but also from age-related changes in the underlying facial bones, according to a report in the January issue of Plastic and Reconstructive

Surgery, the official medical journal of the American Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS). The researchers, led by Robert Shaw, Jr MD at the University of Rochester Medical Center, analysed computed tomography scans of the facial bones in young (age 20 to 40), middleaged (41 to 64), and older (65 and up) age groups. All scans were performed for medical reasons – not for planning plastic surgery. Detailed measurements in three-dimensional reconstructions of the CT scans showed some important differences in the facial bone structure (or facial skeleton) between age groups. “The facial skeleton experiences morphologic change and an overall decrease in volume with increasing age,” Dr Shaw and colleagues wrote. One prominent change was an increase in the area of the orbital aperture (eye sockets). In both men and women, the eye sockets became wider and longer with age. Ageing also affected the bones of the middle part of the face, including reductions in the glabellar (brow), pyriform (nose), and maxillary (upper jaw) angles. The length and height of the mandible (lower jaw) decreased with age as well. Although these changes occurred in both sexes, many occurred earlier in women – between young and middle age. In men, most of the changes occurred between middle age and old age.


Face the future

with confidence Azzalure® is a Botulinum Toxin Type A for aesthetic use. • Fast onset of action (median time to onset 2-3 days)1 • Long duration of action (up to 5 months)1 • High level of patient satisfaction (93% after 6 months, following one treatment session)2

Azzalure® is indicated for the temporary improvement in the appearance of moderate to severe glabellar lines seen at frown, in adult patients under 65 years, when the severity of these lines has an important psychological impact on the patient.

an aesthetic choice Azzalure Abbreviated Prescribing Information Presentation: Botulinum toxin type A (Clostridium botulinum toxin A haemagglutinin complex) 10 Speywood units/0.05ml of reconstituted solution (powder for solution for injection). Indications: Temporary improvement in appearance of moderate to severe glabellar lines seen at frown, in adult patients under 65 years, when severity of these lines has an important psychological impact on the patient. Dosage & Administration: Botulinum toxin units are different depending on the medicinal products. Speywood units are specific to this preparation and are not interchangeable with other botulinum toxins. Reconstitute prior to injection. Intramuscular injections should be performed at right angles to the skin using a sterile 29-30 gauge needle. Recommended dose is 50 Speywood units (0.25 ml of reconstituted solution) divided equally into 5 injection sites,: 2 injections into each corrugator muscle and one into the procerus muscle near the nasofrontal angle. (See summary of product characteristics for full technique). Treatment interval should not be more frequent than every three months. Not recommended for use in individuals under 18 years of age. Contraindications: In individuals with hypersensitivity to botulinum toxin A or to any of the excipients. In the presence of infection at the proposed injection sites, myasthenia gravis, Eaton Lambert Syndrome or Amyotrophic lateral sclerosis. Special warnings and precautions for use: Use with caution in patients with a risk of, or clinical evidence of, marked defective neuro-muscular transmission, in the presence of inflammation at the proposed injection site(s) or when the targeted muscle shows excessive weakness or atrophy. Patients treated with therapeutic doses may experience exaggerated muscle weakness. Not recommended in patients with history of dysphagia, aspiration or with prolonged bleeding time. Seek immediate medical care if swallowing, speech or respiratory difficulties arise. Facial asymmetry, ptosis, excessive dermatochalasis, scarring and any alterations to facial anatomy, as a result of previous surgical interventions should be taken into consideration prior to injection. Injections at more frequent intervals/higher doses can increase the risk of antibody formation. Avoid administering different botulinum neurotoxins during the course of treatment with Azzalure. To be used for one single patient treatment only during a single session. Interactions: Concomitant treatment with aminoglycosides or other agents interfering with neuromuscular transmission (e.g. curare-like agents) may potentiate effect of botulinum toxin. Pregnancy & Lactation: Not to be used during pregnancy or lactation. Side Effects: Most frequently occurring related reactions ®

are headache and injection site reactions. Generally treatment/injection technique related reactions occur within first week following injection and are transient and of mild to moderate severity and reversible. Very Common (≥ 1/10): Headache, Injection site reactions (e.g. erythema, oedema, irritation, rash, pruritus, paraesthesia, pain, discomfort, stinging and bruising). Common (≥ 1/100 to < 1/10): Facial paresis (predominantly describes brow paresis), Asthenopia, Ptosis, Eyelid oedema, Lacrimation increase, Dry eye, Muscle twitching (twitching of muscles around the eyes). Uncommon (≥ 1/1,000 to <1/100): Dizziness, Visual disturbances, Vision blurred, Diplopia, Pruritus, Rash, Hypersensitivity. Rare (≥ 1/10,000 to < 1/1,000): Eye movement disorder, Urticaria. Adverse effects resulting from distribution of the effects of the toxin to sites remote from the site of injection have been very rarely reported with botulinum toxin (excessive muscle weakness, dysphagia, aspiration pneumonia with fatal outcome in some cases). Packaging Quantities & Cost: UK 1 Vial Pack (1 x 125u) £64.00 (RRP), 2 Vial Pack (2 x 125u) £128.00 (RRP) IRE 2 Vial Pack (2 x 125u) €183.78 (RRP). Marketing Authorisation Number: PL 06958/0031 (UK), PA 1609/001/001(IRE). Legal Category: POM. Full Prescribing Information is Available From: Galderma (UK) Limited, Meridien House, 69-71 Clarendon Road, Watford, Herts. WD17 1DS, UK. Tel: +44 (0) 1923 208950 Fax: +44 (0) 1923 208998. Date of Revision: September 2010. Adverse events should be reported. Reporting forms and information can be found at www.yellowcard.gov.uk. Adverse events should also be reported to Galderma (UK) Ltd. References 1. Azzalure® Summary of Product Characteristics. 2. Ascher B et al. J Am Acad Dermatol 2004; 51: 223-33. Azzalure® is a registered trademark of Galderma. Date of preparation: November 2010 AZZ/543/1110


News Special | IMCAS Report

An

Affaire

to Remember

Cosmetic News reports on the 13th annual International Master Course on Ageing Skin (IMCAS) meeting in Paris Each year the aesthetics calendar always begins with the International Master Course on Ageing Skin (IMCAS) meeting taking place in Paris, and this year was no exception, with thousands of practitioners and leading international manufacturers and suppliers flocking to the French capital at the beginning of January for the 13th annual congress at the Palais de Congres. The four-day event, directed by leading French plastic surgeon Benjamin Ascher, attracts some of the premiere minds from the fields of cosmetic surgery, dermatology, anti-ageing and aesthetic medicine from all over the world. Dr Ascher commented, “The annual International Master

best specialists in the field, coming from all around the world.

Course on Ageing Skin (IMCAS) has once again shown itself

Many thanks to all our participants for their great contribution!”

to have a high level platform for scientific exchange, industrial news and medical teaching. This year we had the pleasure of

The event kicked off on Thursday January 6 with registration

welcoming 3,300 registrants coming from 40 different countries

and the Anti-Ageing Course, with topics including ‘Mastering

as well as 300 speakers from all four corners of the globe, who

immunity to prevent skin ageing’, ‘Adapting the hormonal

covered every aspect relative to the evaluation and treatment

environment to slowly prevent accelerated skin ageing in

of ageing skin. Scientific plenary sessions, the IMCAS Industry

men and women’, ‘Oxidative stress in skin ageing: evaluation

Tribune, live surgery, satellite symposia, live demonstrations, new

and solutions’, ‘Genotyping for personalised prevention of skin

devices and research sessions, and teaching courses were all

ageing’, and ‘Human skin stem cells and the ageing process’.

dedicated to share a high level of knowledge provided by the

The main exhibition and conference programme then started

New launches

on Friday January 7. One of the highlights

IMCAS is always used as a platform for companies to launch new products

of the event was the IMCAS Industry

and among those introduced to the market this year were: Motivia, a new

Innovation Tribune, which took place on

range of silicone implants, Modélis® range of volumetric fillers from Anteis, and

the afternoon/evening of Friday January

the Elure® from Syneron. One of the most talked about new launches of the

7. The Tribune is the largest observatory

event was Emervel®, the new hyaluronic acid filler from Galderma. Touted as

tribune of the aesthetic medical market

an ‘innovative new hyaluronic dermal filler range’, the range includes five HA

where leaders of major aesthetic medical

gel fillers desgined specifically for different indications. All of the products utilise

companies come together to analyse the

‘Optimal Balance Technology™’, which is what differentiates them from other

aesthetic medical market on a worldwide

HAs on the market. The range has already received backing from many of the

basis with a focus on Europe . It included

industry’s leading doctors, who have been trialing it in their practices in recent

an overview of 2010 and 2011 trends by

months, and looks set to be one to watch in 2011.

Laurent Brones and Thierry Chingnon as well as a look at how the recovering economy is

Another product that had its European launch at IMCAS was the Eprime

driving the aesthetic markets in the EU and

from Candela/Syneron. This uses multiple needle electrodes inserted into the

USA by Mary Katwala and a round table

reticular dermis to deliver radio-frequency at the required depth and at the

discussion on ‘Challenges of the injectables

required temperature. This gives maximum efficacy and minimal downtime.

market: pricing, distribution, regulatory

The technology is controlable with its realtime temperature and impedance

affairs, innovation’.

feedback, which enables precise ablation. With five peer reviewed studies and

10

some of the industries Key Opinion leaders already championing this technology

Presentations were then made by some of

which will launch in the UK in March/April 2011. Allergan also launched its

the industry’s leading players including:

Easyflow Injection System, developed specifically for the Juvederm® Ultra range.

Allergan on ‘Injectables 2010 market

This proprietary injection system combines needles or cannulae with Ultra Thin

analysis and future’, Galderma on

wall technology and a unique needle hub which securely locks the needle or

‘A unique approach to building an

cannula to the syringe providing increased injection control. The Ultra Thin wall

optimized facial rejuvenation’, Anteis on

technology means that the internal diameter for the needle is increased versus

‘Dermal fillers: a commoditised market?’,

a standard wall needle whilst the external size of the needle (or gauge) remains

Q-med on ‘Value creation of combining

the same delivering an easier injection experience.

cosmeceuticals and dermal fillers’, Cutera

cosmeticnewsuk.com


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Pixel Laser

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Multiple technologies can be combined during a single session or repeated frequently and spread out over 60 days. • When performed in a single treatment session, the Mini Laser360TM program consists of AFT for pigment and vascularity, ST for skin tightening, and Pixel for fractionated skin resurfacing. • The Traditional Laser360 treatment consists of 4-6 treatment sessions, layering multiple technologies (AFT, ST and Pixel), spaced about 10-15 days apart over a 60-day period.

Pixel ST

Before

AFT

After

Before

AFT 420 Acne

Photos courtesy: Elizabeth VanderVeer, MD

Before AFT 540 VP

After

Photos courtesy: Elizabeth VanderVeer, MD

After

Pixel Laser

Photos courtesy: Bhupendra Patel, MD

Before

After

Tattoo Removal - Photos Courtesy: Fernando

Urdiales, Instituto Médico Miramar, Málaga , Spain

ContaCt us on: tel: 0845 1707788, info@a-b-c-uk.com, www.abclasers.co.uk

Before

After

Traditional Laser360

Photos courtesy: Rick Jackson, MD

WINNER - UK BEST LASER SUPPLIER 2008-2009 As voted by clinics


News Special | IMCAS Report on ‘ The challenges in developing clinically

Award for ABC

effective non-invasive products for fat and

It was a good start to the year for ABC Lasers. The UK distrbutor of Alma Lasers

cellulite’ and Syneron on ‘Syneron/Candela

was presented with an award for ‘Best European Laser Distributor’ due to having

one year post merger - lessons for effective

the most sales in the EU of the Soprano™ and Harmony™ mega-application

industry consolidation’.

lasers and RF platform. Managing director of ABC Lasers Guy Goudsmit was delighred with the award. He said, “This unprecedented success of a UK based

Under the ‘Breaking News’ session

company is a tribute to the growing success of the clinics we supply and their

moderated by Dr Ascher, companies

loyalty to ABC Lasers over the years. Thank you each and every one of our

were able to present on their latest

customers – we couldn’t have done it without you.”

ABC Lasers MD Guy Goudsmit (right) holds his award alongside David Alpert (iiaa, Environ) and the Soprano Xli stealth Black

product launches and innovations. One of the biggest talking points was the future acquisition of Q-Med by Galderma.

New UK distributor for Anteis

The makers of Azzalure®, launched a

It was straight in at the deep end for the new UK distributors of Anteis.

reported $970 million bid for the Swedish

Business partners Clive Shotton and Ros Brown of Rosmetics took over

manufacturer of Restylane® at the end

the UK distribution of Anteis on January 1 and were at IMCAS to meet

of 2010. The news was made even more

customers and show their support for their newly acquired brand. The company has taken over the distribution of the Injection System from

interesting by the fact that the company also launched its own hyaluronic acid

Clive Shotton and Ros Brown from Rosmetics, the new UK distrbutor of Anteis

dermal filler, Emervel®, at IMCAS. The

Euromedical Systems and will be be selling the systems both direct and through Wigmore Medical.

question on many practitioners’ lips was how they were going to precede with Emervel® in light of the merger. A presentation was also made to Q-Med managing director Bengt Ågerup to mark his retirement from the industry after 20 years.

There were also two new events launched as part of the congress this year: the IMCAS incubator corner, a brand new platform allowing exchanges between R&D industrials and inventors and ‘la NUIT des IMCAS Awards’, during which an independant jury awarded five doctors for their scientific work or study. The awards took place on the evening of Saturday January 8.The winners were:

Another hot topic was the results of a survey

and OnabotulinumtoxinA using a novel contralateral frontalis model and the frontalis activity

carried out by Merz Aesthetics on aesthetic patient motivation and desires’. The survey of more than 2,900 women demonstrated that a variety of cultures share a common desire to invest in aesthetic medicine despite a sagging economy. The ‘Face Value’ Beauty Survey, conducted by Harris Interactive among women from France, Italy, Spain, Russia and the United Kingdom, revealed that 45% would agree that aesthetic procedures are a necessity, not a luxury, for which many are willing to sacrifice. In addition to cutting back

Dr Mark Nestor, a dermatologist from the USA for “Comparing the clinical attributes of AbobotulinumtoxinA measurement standard.”

Dr Thierry Passeron, a dermatologist from France for “308-nm excimer lamp vs. 308-nm excimer laser for treating vitiligo: a randomised study.”

Dr Virginia Priano, a plastic surgeon from Italy for “Vulvar regeneration and new lichen sclerosus treatment: lipofilling and prp.”

Dr Constantin Stan, a plastic surgeon from Romania for “Multiplane structural size and shape enhacement in the management of the ptotic breast.”

And •

Dr Kotaro Yoshimura, a plastic surgeon from Japan for “Progenitor-Enriched adipose tissue transplantation as rescue for breast implant complications.”

The next IMCAS meeting will be held on January 26 to 29, 2012, in Paris.

on groceries, 31% of said they would seek out a second, or better paying, job to have another facial injectable treatment. Others would be willing to go so far as to forgo vacations (32%) or new clothes, shoes or

Allergan

Comsetic News editor Vicky Eldridge and Galderma’s Julie Goodwin

The Q-Med girls on their stand

Paula Shurrocxk and Marea Brennan Thorns from MBNS clinics with Hollie Dunwell

Merz Aesthetics

John Lenihan, VP of sales for Energist

Ulthera’s UK sales director Phillip Andrews and US based VP of sales and marketing, Jim Atkinson

Cosmetic News’ Hollie Dunwell, Dr Ravi Jain, Dr Mark Harrison and Jemma Cooke (Galderma)

Q-Med

accessories (39%). The survey also found that more than half of women (53%) A presentation was made to Q-Med’s Bengt Agerup to mark his retirement after 20 years in the industry. The MD of the Swedish company is in the process of selling the business to Galderma

have wrinkles and, of those who do, more than three in five (62%) report that they

have sought treatment for their wrinkles. Additionally, more than half of women who have had a facial injectable treatment (57%) report a positive life change as a result. Dr Ascher said, “I was delighted by how many women see the positive effects of investing in the creation of beauty. This interest in putting their most beautiful face forward demonstrates how comfortable women are with accentuating their own attributes.”

12

cosmeticnewsuk.com


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On The ScenE

Out and about in the industry this month...

IMCAS, Paris Cosmetic News’ editor Vicky Eldridge and account manager Hollie Dunwell headed off to Paris last month for the 13th annual International Master Course on Ageing Skin (IMCAS) meeting. Practitioners and leading international manufacturers and suppliers from across the globe flocked to the French capital for the four-day congress held at the Palais de Congres. The event attracts some of the premiere minds from the fields

Dr Ravi Jain, Dr Raj Acquilla and Dr Tapan Patel

David Gower and Martin Mills

Cosmetic surgeon Dalvi Hansi with Galderma’s Emma Miller

Q-Med MD James Backhouse and Healthxchange MD Karen Hill

of cosmetic surgery, dermatology, anti-ageing and aesthetic medicine from all over the world. As well as a chance to gain information on the latest developments in the field of anti-ageing, the event has become a must in the social calendar for many UK companies and practitioners who were able to let their hair down and enjoy some social networking after a grueling day in lectures and walking round the exhibition. See our report on pages 10-12 for more on what happened at this years’ event.

AEA CONVENTION, MARYLAND

NANNIC NBE500 presentation evening, Medspa, London The Medspa Beauty Clinic in London’s Notting Hill hosted a presentation evening of their new skin rejuvenation treatment device. The NBE500, developed by the Belgian company NANNIC Int, has proven results in treating sagging skin, eye-bags, cellulite and excess fat. Guests were given complimentary treatments to experience the results for themselves. Medspa’s chief therapist Lucy Haynes said, “The NBE500 is definitely my favourite because it delivers visible results after the first treatment, which means clients almost always come back after their first session.”

The Annual American Electrolysis Association Convention took place at the Gaylord National Hotel and Convention Centre, National Harbor, Maryland. The convention represented the largest annual educational gathering of professional electrologists from all over the USA, Europe and Asia and celebrated 25 years of excellence in electrolysis. UK based Sterex Electrolysis International Limited attended the event to support their American colleagues. Laurie Cartmell MD of Skin by Sterex and director of Sterex said, “We very much enjoy the convention and feel it hugely beneficial to maintain good relationships with our distributors and ensure we remain abreast with market trends in different countries. It is wonderful to talk to the electrologists and to attend the seminars and the feedback we get from the electrologists is refreshing and invaluable ensuring we remain at the forefront of the industry”

A male model after being treated for only the right-hand side of his face

Jacki Green from NANNIC UK said, “It is not just the RF heat but also the specially designed products that make this treatment so effective. I believe that the NBE500’s treatment products would also be very effective with other RF devices.”

Chief therapist Lucy Haynes performs a treatment demo

Therapists Lucy Haynes and Jessica Stebbings with Jacki Green (NANNIC) and clinic manager Perry Amin at their reception

CACI International UK National Sales meeting

14

cosmeticnewsuk.com

CACI International started

tier annual sales targets at the company’s UK National Sales meeting.

2011 on a positive note when

He said “ This really is a fantastic achievement and reflects not only the

its national sales manager,

sales team’s dedication but also confirms our treatment systems popularity

Phil Hendey, presented three

as a viable business solution in the current economic climate, we look

members of the UK sales

forward to even greater success in 2011”.

team with handsome bonus

The company is looking to recruit an experienced sales professional to cover the Essex and East

cheques for achieving 2010 upper

London regions. Interested applicants should send a CV to recruitment@caci-international.co.uk



Cosmetic News Expo 2011 | Preview

BEST

THE

We tell you why you should visit the UK’s only free of charge aesthetics conference and exhibition

Free THINGS IN LIFE ARE

They say the best things in life are free and this is a philosophy that we here at Body Media have embraced with our annual conference and exhibition, the Cosmetic News Expo. Launched in April 2010, the Cosmetic News Expo is the UK’s largest free of charge conference and exhibition and we are now looking forward to our second event, which will take place at the Business Design Centre in Islington, London on May 6 and 7 2011.

the Face: Body Treatments, Nutrition and Patient Psychology’. These topics will be split across the two days – Friday May 6 and Saturday May 7 2011. Speakers will include Dr Bob Khanna, Professor Syed Haq, Mr Dalvi Humzah, Mr Paul Banwell, Dr Ayham Al-Ayoubi, Dr Ravi Jain and Dr Patrick Treacy. Although the event is free, delegates are advised to register in advance for the conference to reserve their place on

Designed to be even bigger and better than the inaugural show, the 2011 Expo will offer aesthetic professionals the chance to gain CPD accredited education at the same time as networking and exchanging information with their peers and finding out about the latest technologies and products on the market, all under one roof. Bringing together more aesthetic practitioners than any other meeting, the Cosmetic News Expo is the only free trade show and educational meeting in the UK. The philosophy behind this comes from Body Media’s extensive experience in running shows for other niche markets. We believe that education should be available to everyone, no matter what their budget, and, as such, have designed an event that allows aesthetic practitioners to gather knowledge about the latest treatments and

REASONS TO VISIT THE COSMETIC NEWS EXPO: lC ATCH UP WITH ALL YOUR SUPPLIERS UNDER ONE ROOF lG AIN CPD ACCREDITED EDUCATION FOR FREE lN ETWORK WITH OTHER AESTHETIC PRACTITIONERS lA TTEND FREE EXHIBITOR AND BUSINESS WORKSHOPS lR ECHARGE YOUR ENTHUSIASM l I NCREASE YOUR CLINIC’S OFFERINGS l T AKE ADVANTAGE OF DEALS l S EE NEW PRODUCTS FIRST

the educational programme. As well as this a series of exhibitor workshops and live demos and business seminars, with speakers including The Consulting Room™’s Ron Myers and Martyn Roe, will be running on the exhibition floor. The show is open to cosmetic doctors, aesthetic nurse, dermatologist, plastic surgeon, cosmetic dentist, aesthetician, practice managers, and other professionals working in the cosmetic medicine business. It is not open to members of the public.

To register for tickets to the Cosmetic News Expo and to see the full conference programme line-up visit www.cosmeticnewsuk.com

developments at the same time as attending hands on workshops and lectures, without breaking the bank.

Allergan, ABC Lasers, AesthetiCare, Candela, Cynosure, Dermapure, HealthXchange, Lynton

Supported by the industry’s key manufactures

Lasers, Sanofi Aventis and SkinBrands.

and suppliers, the Cosmetic News Expo is a must visit for those new to the industry who are

Education is one of the key focuses of the

trying to source suppliers and busy practitioners

Cosmetic News Expo and as such a conference

who want to be able to see all their reps

and workshop programme will once again be

under one roof. Sponsored by SkinCeuticals

taking place throughout the two-day event.

and Galderma (Platinum sponsors) and Merz

The main programme will be running in the

Aesthetics (Silver Sponsor), the event will

conference auditorium upstairs, which has the

showcase the latest products and treatments

capacity for 450 people, focusing on ‘The Three

on the market. Other exhibitors include Q-Med,

Tiers of Cosmetic Dermatology’ and ‘Beyond

16

cosmeticnewsuk.com

cosmetic news expo 2011 sponsored by: Platinum sponsors

silver sponsor


• COSMETIC NEWS EXPO 2011 CONFERENCE PROGRAMME •

FRIDAY MAY 6

SATURDAY MAY 7

9am-10am Coffee and Registration

9am-10am Coffee and Registration

10am-1.30pm THE THREE TIERS OF COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY PART 1: SKIN TEXTURE AND TONE Aesthetic medicine is not just about filling lines and wrinkles, it is also about improving the appearance of the skin. We look at the wide range of treatments designed to improve skin texture and tone from skin revitalisation to chemical peeling, fractional lasers and skincare. 10am-10.20am What’s New in Cosmetic Dermatology – TBC 10.20am-10.40am Platelet Rich Plasma Rejuvenation – Ita Murphy 10.40am-11am Platinum Sponsor Session – SkinCeuticals

10am-1pm BEYOND THE FACE PART 2: BODY AESTHETICS Body aesthetics has become big business in recent years. We explore a whole spectrum of body treatments from body needling to high definition VASER and even some controversial new uses for lasers. 10am-10.30am Body Contouring: What Aesthetic Practitioners Can Learn from Plastic Surgeons – Chris Inglefield 10.30am-10.50am Latest Developments in Body Contouring: The ‘Popcorn Laser’ – Dr Ayham Al-Ayoubi 10.50am-11.10am High-Definition VASER – Dr Ravi Jain 11.10am-11.40am Coffee Break

11am-11.30am Coffee Break SKIN TEXTURE AND TONE CONTINUED 11.30am-11.50am Skin Revitalisation Using Injectables – Dr Toni Phillips 11.50am-12.10pm Skin Needling and Growth Factors – Elliot Isaacs 12.10pm-12.30pm Laser Resurfacing – Dr Patrick Treacy 12.30pm-2.30pm Exhibition Viewing and Lunch 2.30pm-3.10pm BEYOND THE FACE PART 1: PATIENT CONSULTATION AND PSYCHOLOGY When it comes to aesthetics understanding patient psychology and giving a thorough consultation is an important factor. In this session we will explore issues such as Body Dysmorphic Disorder and body image issues as well as looking at the consultation process and how to manage patients’ expectations. 2.30pm-2.50pm Body Image and Body Dysmorphia – James Lamper 2.50pm-3.10pm Patient Consultation: Selection and Assessment – Constance Camipon 3.10pm-3.30pm Coffee Break 3.30pm-6pm THE THREE TIERS OF COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY PART 3: VOLUME AND CONTOURING In recent years facial aesthetics treatments have gone beyond chasing the line to placing more value on volume replacement and facial contouring. In this session we explore the dermal fillers and other treatments for this indication. 3.30pm-4.30pm The Importance of Underlying Facial Anatomy (Including Live Demonstration) Platinum Sponsor session – Galderma (speakers TBC) 4.30pm-5pm Silver Sponsor session – Merz Aesthetics (speaker TBC) 5pm-5.20pm Heart Shaped Lips – Dr Bob Khanna 5.20pm-5.40pm A New Method of Volumising Using RadioFrequency – TBC 5.40pm-6pm Nose Reshaping with Fillers – Paul Banwell 6pm-7pm Exhibition viewing 7pm After show party

BODY AESTHETICS CONTINUED 11.40am-12pm Micropigmentation: Corrective Uses – Karen Betts 12pm-12.20pm Laser Beyond Cosmetics: New Applications – Dr Martin Kinsella 12.20pm-12.40pm Laser in Vascular Applications – TBC 12.40pm-1pmBody Needling: Treating Scars and Stretchmarks – AesthetiCare 1pm-2.30pm Exhibition Viewing and Lunch 2.30pm-3.10pm BEYOND THE FACE PART 2: NUTRITION In this session we look at the role of nutrition in aesthetic medicine, from skin ageing to weight loss, and tell you how understanding these can enhance your treatment results. 2.30am-2.50pm Incorporating Diet and Nutrition into the Aesthetics Practice – Prof Syed Haq 2.50pm-3.10pm Nutrition and Skin Skin Ageing – Tarryn Van Toppel 3.10pm-3.30pm Coffee Break 3.30pm-5pm THE THREE TIERS OF COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY PART 3: LINES AND WRINKLES – BOTULINUM TOXIN Botulinum toxin is one of the staple treatments of any aesthetics practice and one of the most successful ways of erasing lines and wrinkles. In this session we explore the latest advances, products and techniques with this wonder drug and hear from the key players in the toxins market. 3.30pm-3.50pm What’s New in Botulinum Toxin – Mr Dalvi Humzah 3.50pm-4.20pm Platinum Sponsor session – Galderma (speaker TBC) 4.20pm-4.40pm Botulinum Toxin in Practice – Dr Bob Khanna 5.40pm–6pm Sponsored session – Allergan (speaker TBC) *Please note the programme is subject to change please visit www.cosmeticnewsuk.com for regular updates cosmetic news expo 2011 sponsored by: Platinum sponsors

silver sponsor

cosmeticnewsuk.com

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People in Profile | Marea Brennan Thorns

Path

FORGING HER OWN

Cosmetic News speaks to Marea Brennan Thorns about how she has forged her own path in aesthetics and how she is hoping to inspire other nurses to do the same…

Marea Brennan Thorns is a name that most people in the aesthetics industry will know. One of the longest standing aesthetic nurses, Marea was a founder member of the original forum for nurses working in aesthetic medicine and has built up a successful nurse-led practice, MBNS Clinics, with business partner Stephanie Green.

B

skills in some way and I had day dreamed about having my own business, but I was very nervous about the fear of litigation and rules as well as doubting if I had all the skills needed.”

ut what many people may not know

I had less responsibility and respect than when I

about Marea is how she has taken

first started. I was frustrated too by frequent staff

But with encouragement from Marie, Marea

aesthetic nursing to the next level

illnesses and shortages, probably caused by

took the plunge and in 1996 set herself up as an

and forged out her own path, both

budget cuts. Alongside this, I saw friends outside

independent nurse practitioner. “Marie she really

educationally and in terms of her professional

of nursing, getting promoted, where as my salary

encouraged me and mentored me a lot in those

competency. Always striving to be the best

appeared not to have really grown and kept

early days”, she says. “I owe her a lot.”

that she can in her specialist field, Marea has

pace with the costs of having a family.”

GOING IT ALONE

recently completed an MSc in Leadership and Management in Clinical Practice at Oxford

Marea took some time out from nursing and went

Marea started out as a mobile practitioner travelling

Brookes University, having designed the modules

to work in medical sales and marketing working

from health spa to health spa, working with

herself based around her clinical practice in

with Mentor. After a few years on the corporate

Cannons Health Clubs and even at the exclusive

cosmetic medicine. As well as this she was one

treadmill, Marea took a job as a marketing

Chelsea Harbour Club during the years that Princess

of the first aesthetic nurses in the UK to become

consultant working with one of the plastic surgeons

Diana was a member. Soon she was travelling

a Nurse Independent Prescriber and has recently

who she had got to know during her time as

all over the country injecting, but the work load

been given the honor of being invited on to the

a rep. It was then that she met Marie Duckett

became too much for her alone and after a mutual

committee for the (National) Association for

(now a well-known and leading aesthetic nurse

friend put her in touch with fellow nurse Stephanie

Nurse Prescribing – the only aesthetic nurse on

practitioner herself) and it was Marie who first

Green, they decided to join forces. It was not until

the panel. By making up her own rules, Marea

encouraged Marea to take up aesthetics. She

the pair saw the potential in adding laser treatments

has become one of the top aesthetic nurses in

says, “When I met Marie Duckett she was a sales

to their offerings, however, that they decided to set

the country and she is now hoping to inspire other

rep for Collagen Corporation and she invited me

up their own clinic and be based in a fixed location.

nurses to do the same.

to a course where they were training doctors and

Marea explains, “Stephanie and I went to see a

nurses to inject. I hadn’t injected for a long time

laser manufacturer, looked at the feasibility plan

BACK TO THE BEGINNING

but Marie encouraged me to do it and seemed to

for the business model, decided that we would

Marea started out her nursing career in cardiac

think I had some skill at the time.”

do that together and that we would need a fixed location – as lasers were very big in those

surgery and intensive care. She worked in Holland for four years in a new cardiac surgery unit along

Marea had been thinking more and more about

days. We found a clinic in Wexham Park Hospital

with ‘cosmopolitan nurses’ from all over the globe,

working for herself. She had a young family and felt

South Lodge Consulting. At that point only

but on returning to England she found the NHS had

constrained by the working hours she had to put

surgeons and physicians were renting rooms

changed and this was the catalyst for her making

in, but she was nervous about taking the plunge.

there and that’s how we started. We started off

her first career move that would lead her on the

She says, “What I really wanted was more time with

with three days a week and within three months

path towards becoming an aesthetic nurse. She

my family and occasionally being at the school

we were there five days a week.”

remembers, “During that four years the NHS had

gates to collect my children. I had thought about

changed a lot and I didn’t really feel as valued.

working for myself and I liked the idea of having

Eventually they set up their own practice together

It seemed to me that all the qualifications and

more freedom and by being my own boss but I

in Thame under the name MBNS. Marea says, “ A

experience I had acquired mattered less and

was nervous about leaving a job, which I thought

lot of aesthetic nurses start out working the same

less. I was competent and experienced but felt

was secure. I wanted to continue using my nursing

way I did but are worried about losing their patients

cosmeticnewsuk.com

19


People in Profile | Marea Brennan Thorns if they move to a fixed location clinic. All I can say

NURSE PRESCRIBING

with mainstream health professionals and working

is that I have been there too and I understand their

When the law changed allowing nurses to

with doctors as well as nurses and other healthcare

concerns. Some patients will travel to where your

prescribe, subject to undergoing a further

professionals appealed to me. As an individual I

new fixed location is and some won’t but you you

qualification, Marea became one of the first

don’t like to wait around until the circumstances

will also be gaining new ones. All these concerns

nurses to go through the NIP course in 2006.

are right, my study for prescribing had opened up

can be overcome and it was easier in some ways

Recently Marea has also been given the honour

academia for me, and as no masters degree in

than I expected. I was worried that I would be on

of being accepted as a committee member for

medical aesthetics existed at that time, I took the

my own and although I was in my own business

the (National) Association for Nurse Prescribing

plunge and enrolled!”

there were some other people I could turn to.”

(ANP). She says, “For more than 10 years, the ANP has been a leading voice campaigning for,

Marea started her course with 20 academic credits

Stephanie and Marea have kept their practice

and promoting the role of nurse prescribing. The

from her prescribing qualification and built up the

purely nurse led, employing only other nurses

ANP provides nurses with support and education

remaining 160 credits needed to gain her masters

to work alongside them, and are proud of the

in order that they feel confident in their role.

by completing modules in Diagnostic Reasoning

fact that, since Paul Shurrock made their duo a

We recognise that the patient is at the heart

in Practice, Leadership in Health Care, Advanced

threesome 10 years ago, they have had no staff

of every nurse’s career and that nurses need

Research Design, Accreditation via Prior

turnover within their nursing team. This has helped

to continue improving their standards of care,

Experiential Learning (APEL) and her dissertation of

them to develop a business that allows them to

knowledge and proficiency. I feel very honoured

20,000 words. She was able to gain 40 academic

be their own bosses and work their own hours.

that the Association has asked me to be on

credits by writing up her prior experiential learning,

Marea says, “We are nurse practitioners, business

their committee. I hope to provide a ‘bridge’

from her collaboration on the professional

managers and friends and we are able to have

between prescribing aesthetic nurse practitioners

nursing competencies: a critical analysis of the

exactly what I wanted when I moved away from

and mainstream nursing. I recommend that all

organisational and teamwork skills required to

big corporations. Stephanie, Paula and I are

aesthetic nurse practitioners join the ANP, as the

develop a professional competency framework

able to have this life of being able to be our own

professional development programmes are really

in a new nursing specialty. For her dissertation she

bosses, work when we want to and be there for

useful and there are fortnightly bite sized electronic

carried out a small primary research study on ‘The

our children. We work 60-80 hours a week – not

news letters, providing up to date prescribing

transition process from the NHS to private practice

each but between us. So the patients have got 80

information for nurses and you can be a member

for nurses working in aesthetic medicine and the

hours of treatments available to them.”

even before you get your nurse prescribing

experience of mentorship’. It took Marea two years

qualification.”

to complete the MSc while still working full time at

But it wasn’t always this easy and Marea is keen to

the clinic, but she is proud of the achievement. She

remind other nurses that she has had to struggle

Marea will be working closely with the British

says, “Studying part time as well as working was

through the hard times too to get to where she is

Association of Cosmetic Nurses (BACN), to ensure

challenging at times, but I am glad I now have

today. “Over the last 12 years I have made some

that ‘aesthetic nurses have a voice’, within the

a little more time as I have recently become a

good decisions and some decisions which have

ANP, she will also be assisting other committee

Grandmother!”

cost me a lot of money and wasted time. I now

members within the ANP with national PR and

have a business which is highly profitable and

nurse prescribing awareness campaigns.

continuing to grow, and which gives me time off

A NEW VENTURE You would think after all that Marea would be

BACK TO SCHOOL

looking forward to a bit of a break but always

As Marea developed her skill sets within her

looking for the next challenge, she is now adding

WRITING COMPETENCIES

specialty, she decided that she wanted to

another string to her bow by setting up a new

Marea was one of the founder members of the

broaden her academic qualifications too and

business with husband Stephen Thorns (former

original forum for nurses working in aesthetic

has recently completed an MSc in Leadership

director in Johnson & Johnson, Medical Devices/

medicine, along with, Suzanne Armstrong, Cathy

and Management in Clinical Practice. She says,

Plastic Surgery) and business partner Stephanie

Wallwork, Fleur Rickcord, Michelle Irvine, Constance

“ During my time doing my Nurse Prescribing

Green – Qutis Advanced Skin Clinics – in which

Campion, Beth Sweeney and Stephanie Green

Qualification I was able to mix with the academics

new practitioners are offered an opportunity

(some of whom have since gone on to set up the

at Oxford University and was approached to see

to partner up with an experienced clinic and

British Association of Cosmetic Nurses) As part of this

if I would be interested in doing the MSc under

clinicians in order to build their own practice and

group, she was one of the nurses involved in writing

the Student Designed Award, where if the right

business within medical aesthetics.

the aesthetic nurse professional competencies,

masters degree didn’t exist for you then you could

published in 2005, and although this took up the

design your own award. My senior tutor and tutors

“We are looking for other like-minded Nurses or

best part of five years of her life, she has never

from my prescribing course had confidence that I

Doctors or business investors who would like full and

regretted the time and effort it took.

could succeed at masters level and encouraged

comprehensive aesthetics training to build their

She says, “I did that work not just for me but for

me to chose modules which would involve my

own business. We give clear, long term advice and

all nurses. It was something like five years of work

work at our practice. This proved to be perfect

in-house training to cover all the treatment skills

and sometimes other nurses would say to us

as I had not been able to find a course that met

and business systems you need to start your own

‘what are you bothering for?’ but we did it so

my specific requirements, and I was able to build

aesthetic skin clinic franchise.”

we could walk with our heads held high and to

on my previous learning and this in turn met my

lift the bar and raise our game. Nurses had been

personal and professional needs. My degree was

criticised by some doctors for not having the right

a multi-professional course open to a very wide

Marea Brennan Thorns will be running a

or the competency to do these treatments so

range of professionals who work in health settings,

workshop on ‘Empowering Aesthetic Nurse

we thought let us work on that and publish these

including doctors, health care educators, health

Practitioners’ at this year’s Cosmetic News

competencies with a body that is respectable

care technicians, nurses, practice managers,

Expo. The workshop is free but you are advised

such as the RCN.”

psychotherapists and social workers. I liked the

to book your place in advance because of

idea of being developed and measured along

limited places. To book call 01268 754 897.

during the week, but it wasn’t always like this.”

20

cosmeticnewsuk.com


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Special Feature | Micropigmentation

Making a

mark Micropigmentation or semi-permanent make-up has firmly established itself as a medical aesthetics speciality in recent years, with many clinics incorporating it into the treatment menus for both beauty and medical applications. We look at how the industry has evolved and speak to some of its key players…

Micropigmentation or semi-permanent make-up, as it is otherwise known, used to be considered as being purely in the domain of the beauty industry, but in the last decade it has firmly established itself as being part of the medical aesthetics genre by offering treatments that not only compliment antiageing procedures but also by working hand in hand with the plastic reconstructive industry in the fields of cancer and burns.

S

We use really fine needles to create these fine hair strokes, not like the thicker needles we used to use. Semi-permanent make-up shouldn’t be noticed it should always be soft and natural. The industry has come a long way from when we first started 15 years ago.”

Beauty and anti-ageing Semi-permanent make-up has its roots in the purely cosmetic side of the beauty industry, finding a market with women who wanted to have makeup that really lasted. Even the most flawless of cosmetics can run and rub off over the course of the day so semi-permanent make-up proved to be an ideal solution for busy women on the go

emi-permanent make-up is a

but a wider selection of pigments has also been

who want to look their best. As the industry has

form of temporary cosmetic

developed so that technicians can create ultra

developed the anti-ageing benefits of permanent

tattooing which uses very fine

natural looks.

cosmetics have also become clearer – eye brows can be lifted without the need for surgery or the

needles to place pigments under the skin. It can be used to

Leading semi-permanent make-up artists Karen

results of botulinum toxin can be enhanced by

create long-lasting eyeliner and

Betts remembers, “When I first started it was

creating a better shape to the brow; lips can be

lip colour as well as being able to shape and

blocked brows, ugly 90s lip liner, that wasn’t

made to look fuller and given a more defined

contour eyebrows and re-create nipples, lost

blended into the lip at all and heavy eyeliners.

shape without fillers or to enhance the results of fillers

during breast cancer surgery.

When I trained in the States I got shown how to

and eyes can be made to look fresher and younger

The term ‘micropigmentation’ was originally

do a brow and you just coloured it all in, just like

with a touch of eyeliner. All of these things make it fit

coined to distinguish semi-permanent make-up

a colouring book. But people were just grateful

in perfectly in the medical aesthetics environment

from tattooing as it uses ‘micropigments’ that

to have brows at that time as there was nothing

and work in synergy with other forms of non-surgical

are injected into the skin at a far more superficial

else around. It was just classed as tattooing,

cosmetic enhancement, and, as such, more

level than with body art tattooing.

but then people like myself and Debra Robson

and more aesthetic clinics are offering it on their

The industry has been fighting an uphill battle

Lawrence thought to ourselves ‘right we want to

treatment menus.

against perceptions of heavy, drawn on,

make things look more natural’ and that’s when I

Top technician Tracie Giles says, “I certainly

‘McDonalds’ arch eyebrows and thick Playboy

started looking at the growth of natural eyebrows

see permanent make-up sitting in the arena of

style lip liners done in one block of colour, which

and we started doing the 3D hair strokes. We can

cosmetic beauty/aesthetic medicine. I feel that it

dominated the looks of the 90s. However since

now make the hair strokes look so so natural that

should be grouped together with the Botox® and

then, not only have techniques been refined,

you can’t even tell that anything has been done.

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dermal fillers market, especially because of the other side we do which is more restorative. I don’t like seeing these treatments done in a beauty salon somewhere, I think it needs to be much more strongly legislated and performed at more defined locations. I think people should be able to know they are going to a specialist semi-permanent make-up place rather than in a beauty salon or hairdressers, I just don’t think it fits. I think down the line that is how the industry should go.” Annalisa Phillips runs semi-permanent make-up clinics at the Riverbanks Clinic, owned by Dr Ravi Jain, and has found it to be popular with his clients. She said, “I have been working with Dr Jain at

MICRODERMABRASION SPECIALISTS

the Riverbanks Clinic over the last year and have found that semi-permanent make-up treatments Semi-permanent make-up artist Annalisa Phillips at work

sit well with aesthetic treatments. Eyebrows are one of the most popular treatments we do. The

tail of the eyebrow can fall as the skin ages, often making the patient appear tired. By repositioning the tail of the brow to its original higher position the eye appears more open. Individual hair stoke simulation can blend seamlessly with the natural brow to ensure the lifted tail is not obviously unnatural. This process sits particularly well along side the Madonna lift performed by Dr Jain and is a common finishing touch to this treatment. Also flat or horizontal eyebrows are often requested to be reshaped to a feminine, arched brow through the use of Botox® and this effect can be enhanced by semi-permanent make up

DIAMOND PEELING

by adding colour and definition to the new arched shape. In the lip area semi-permanent make-up can be used to in conjunction with filler to give a more defined lip line and the impression of a fuller lip. Specific shading techniques can also be used to emphasis the cupids bow and correct

Before and after full face semi-permanent make-up (pictures courtesy of Annalisa Phillips)

FULL TRAINING

pigment selection can ensure that the natural lip is defined without the appearance of wearing lip color.” Tracie adds, “This is not just to make you look better this is also an anti-ageing treatment – the eyebrows

C R Y S TA L PEELING

are lifted, the eyes look more awake, their lips look fuller. We always say permanent make-up will last in the skin between one and three years (sometimes indefinitely) and it will, but it won’t look perfect so top ups are important for people to maintain the look. Also every year their faces are changing a little bit more so coming back in for top ups enables us to tweak the results in line with that.”

Tracie Giles measures the brow to make sure it is symmetrical

Karen adds, “A good brow is definitely an anti-ageing secret for everybody. I would love every surgeon out there to be offering what we do alongside brow lifts. Just because someone has had a brow lift doesn’t mean to say their brows are in the right place to start with or the right shape. Both of them really do compliment each other. A good percentage of people have got eyebrows that are laterally cantered and this can give them this really sad look – we can make a massive difference by just tweezing a few of those brow hairs out and creating the look from the eyebrows we place in there – we can lift even without Botox®.”

GREAT VERSATILITY

And its not just women opting for the longer-lasting make-up look, Karen has also recently been receiving

PROVEN EFFICACY

a lot of requests from men wanting to have semi-permanent ‘guyliner’. Andrew Bedford, 25, who had the treatment with Karen comments, “Although I have confidence I have always been very self-conscious about my eyes. I entered a competition I heard advertised on the radio ‘Ice Factor 2010’ and knowing I had to make an impression at my auditions, I asked Jodie my partner to help me apply make-up around my eyes aiming for the look of Russell Brand or Johnny Depp in Pirates of the Caribbean. The result was amazing I loved it, I actually felt my eyes were a real focus point. This then lead to me wearing it more and more, if I was out and about at work people would stop and comment on my eyes

RESULTS DRIVEN TREATMENTS HIGH RETURN ON INVESTMENT 5 YEAR WARRANTY AFFORDABLE QUALITY

on how well it looked. I started to wear it on a regular basis, if we went for a meal or a night out I’d get the same reaction, people were surprised to see a guy wearing make-up yet I’d be complimented at almost every venue we’d go in so I decided to look into having it permanently applied! “I am now out working every day and in the public eye Before and after ‘guyliner’ treatment (pictures courtesy of Karen Betts)

pursuing my challenge to win the 2010 Ice Factor. I’m no longer shy or self conscious about having the close ups for the

advertising/promotion photo shots. After my guyliner treatment with Karen I have now booked in for further treatments such as HD Brows as I believe this treatment will compliment Karen’s work and once again lift my confidence to the next level.”

01903 768 380 info@thecarltongroup.co.uk

www.thecarltongroup.co.uk


Special Feature | Micropigmentation Medical tattooing More and more practitioners within aesthetic clinics, hospitals and oncology departments are also now realising the potential of post-surgery and corrective micropigmentation. “A hospital ward or operating theatre is probably the last place where you would expect to find a tattooist at work and yet every month a new hospital is offering this service to patients”, says

Vitiligo after (pictures courtesy of Finishing Touches)

Samantha Jones co-director of leading cosmetic

Vitiligo before (pictures courtesy of Finishing Touches)

and medical tattooing company Finishing Touches, which has trained and supplied products to more

feel like they belong to themselves. All I am doing

boutique on the high street in London’s trendy

than 300 hospitals and clinics in the UK and Europe.

is putting the colour back in but I get all the tears

Knightsbridge. She explains, “People who have

and the emotions coming out because they look

alopecia or cancer don’t want to feel like

The medical applications for the treatment are

at themselves and feel they are back to normal.

patients – its kind of getting away from that Harley

plentiful and include areola tattooing following

This is the type of work that allows you to give

Street environment. They come in here they get

mastectomy (perhaps the most popular) as well

something back.”

pampered, they can have a glass of champagne, there are chandeliers and big sumptuous cushions

as eyebrow/eyelash reconstruction for alopecia patients who have lost hair through burns,

Mr Iain Brown, Consultant Oncoplastic Breast

everywhere and they feel amazing when they

and General Surgeon Royal Cornwall

leave they don’t feel like victims of cancer. That

Hospitals NHS Trust adds, “Nipple areola

was really important to me.

micropigmentation provides the final

“It’s a long road they have had to face their own

step in a reconstructive patients journey

mortality and they have had an emotional and

back to health. For many women this

physical battering. Coming to have something like

signifies an important milestone and has

this done is a shift in their own mind that they are

a significant role to play in the reparative

ready to restore themselves to normal ad get on

process after loss of the breast”,

with their lives. It is a really really defining moment in that women’s life, to walk out of here when they

Acne scarring before micro needling (pictures courtesy of Finishing Touches)

Acne scarring after micro needling (pictures courtesy of Finishing Touches)

In fact it was this desire to restore

have felt awful for so long and have eyelashes

normality to patients’ lives that inspired

again or have an areola restored is amazing and

Dawn Forshaw to set up Finishing

to have that in an environment that doesn’t feel

Touches. She said, “I was dealing with

like a hospital is even better.”

burns victims and people with alopecia and cancer and other diseases

Although the treatment can also be used to

which cause hair loss through my wig

re-introduce pigment to scars from accidents

manufacturing business. A lot of my

and burns, it can also be used, in the same was

operations or accidents, camouflage of vitiligo, hair

clients were saying they could handle not having

as dermal rollering, to encourage collagen

simulation on transplant sites, cosmetic correction

any hair but what they couldn’t deal with was

production and help promote healing in scars.

of cleft palate, correction of facial asymmetry and

now having eyebrows as it made them look

In this instance the same equipment/needles

camouflage of surgical scars.

androgynous. It was ruining their quality of life.

are used just without pigment – known as ‘dry

The treatment can be used to camouflage vitiligo

“We want medical tattooing to be widely

the needle promotes a wound healing response,

with particular success in patients with skin types V

available throughout the private and NHS sectors.

encouraging collagen and melanin production

and VI. However great care should be taking when

The response we receive from hospital staff is very

and relaxing contractures, and thus the

treating this condition, Debra Robson Lawrence

encouraging but it is the positive responses from

appearance of scars can be improved.

only recommends performing the treatment

the patients that really make this worthwhile.”

Sam says, “The result leaves the scar looking

needling’. The process of injuring the skin with

on patients who have been stable for 10 years,

flatter softer and less rigid. This simple and cost

otherwise it could trigger the disorder to spread

Sam continues, “For many breast cancer survivors

effective technique has produced amazing

outside the re-pigmented site.

areola tattooing is often the ‘finishing touch’ to

success where many other creams, patches and

cancer recovery. Following breast reconstruction

surgeries have failed.”

“This is a straightforward, cost effective procedure

surgery, a patient is left with a re-shaped breast

which makes a world of difference to peoples’

but areola colour, and often the nipple itself

lives”, says Sam. “Medical tattooing provides

is missing. Finishing Touches teach how to use

solutions where no other exists”.

shading and highlighting to tattoo a realistic areola and nipple. Careful placing of the areola

It is in treating these patients that most technicians

can improve the appearance, balance and

say they get the most job satisfaction as the

symmetry of the breast. For most patients a breast

procedure can be life changing for many

tattoo is the final stage to a very long battle.

patients. Karen says, “The medical side is fantastic.

Patients report they don’t feel so self-conscious

I work with a lot of surgeons either doing theatre

and have increased confidence and feel

tattooing or showing them my techniques where

‘normal’ again. There are so many possibilities, we

I offer my services for this free of charge. Between

are developing fantastic new innovative solutions

yesterday and this afternoon I have done 15

which we know drastically improves quality of life;

breast clients. These ladies are the best ladies you

we are determined medical tattooing is made

can have. They have nearly lost their lives and

available throughout the NHS - the scope is vast

they are so grateful for anything you can do for

but the cost, small.”

A scar before micro needling (pictures courtesy of Finishing Touches)

them. By the time they get to me they have been through all the trauma and I am just taking them

One technician who is trying to take this one

back to normal. They have got breasts that have

step further is Tracie Giles, who has just opened a

got no nipples or areolas on them and they don’t

new concept walk-in semi-permanent make-up

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cosmeticnewsuk.com

A scar after micro needling (pictures courtesy of Finishing Touches)



Special Feature | Micropigmentation Tools of the trade

Karen says, “Years ago

The micropigmentation speciality has continued

we used was battery

to develop and grow over recent years with more

run rotary machines

sophisticated techniques, equipment and pigments

which had a sidewise

becoming available.

fluctuation so you could

Finishing Touches Amiea Machine

not get that really fine

Pigments and colour theory

hair strokes or really fine

It is in the area of pigments that semi-permanent

precise lines. Most of the

make-up has seen many of its advances. In the

equipment that is on the

early days there was a very narrow selection of

market now is digital so

colours, which made creating the exact skin or hair

its got really fine needles

colour difficult. Nowadays however pigments come

and you can be really

in a huge variety of shades to cover all skin types

precise, it is just like working with a fountain pen.”

from Caucasian to Asian and Afro-Caribbean.

and develop a generation of new cutting edge equipment. Amiea systems have been specifically

It is imperative that technicians understand

Tracie adds, “The introduction of digital technology

developed with the aesthetic practitioner in

colour theory, blending and tones in order to

and digital machines like the Precision Plus and the

mind and will include features, which encompass

create the most natural effects and in this way

Long Time Liner has really advanced the industry

several aesthetic disciplines – “more bite for your

micropigmentation can be seen as an art. Unlike

in terms of what we can achieve as the results are

buck”, says Sam.

other industries, the semi-permanent make-up

far more precise. They still have to be in the hands

industry’s pigment products have been heavily

of an experienced practitioner – it’s not just the

Tracie favours using different devices for different

influenced by the practitioners working in this field,

machine that does the work.”

areas she says, “I don’t use a single device – I use different devices for the face and body. For

with many of the top names developing their own pigment ranges. Tracie says, ’”Each treatment I do

Sam and Dawn from Finishing touches have

is tailor made to suit the individual. We use only the

pioneered the design and manufacture of a

best mineral pigments that are colour blended to

specialist machine and equipment. The Precision

suit each individual, for example no two skin tones

Plus system is the only device in the world to

are the same, this is also the theory for hair and eye

carry class 2a medical certification and offers a

colour. We choose the perfect pigment blend that

large range of needle configurations, to ensure

will boost each client’s natural beauty.”

maximum scope for creativity, a palate of tattoo

The Long Time Liner system is favoured by Tracie Giles for lips

pigments for areola and camouflage designed

Needles and machines

specifically for medical tattooing procedures.

Another area where the industry has evolved

All equipment is manufactured to the highest

significantly is the technology and equipment

European standard and surpasses standards in

used to carry out these treatments, with digital

safety. Sam says, “Maxillo Facial departments use

technology literally revolutionising the industry

reconstruction and camouflage tattoo techniques

and the ability of practitioners to produce natural

on burns and scars using the Precision Plus to give

results.

definition and symmetry by tattooing eyebrows, lips, eye outlines, to create stubble and hair. This machine is also

example the Long Time Liner machine is the most

used for micro needling - using a

expensive machine in the industry but the results it

needle to create a mild trauma

delivers are second to none – you can’t compare

on the site of a scar, wrinkle or

it to anything else in the industry. I can get an air

burn causes the body to react

brushed effect on the lips with complete precision.

and send collagen to the area.”

It is a completely unique concept – the healing time is reduced, the colour looks very fine and

Finishing Touches PPlus Medical machine

Finishing Touches was also recently

pretty on the lips but when I work with eyebrows or

invited to join the worldwide

eyeliner I prefer to use something like the Nouveau

Amiea brand. Amiea is a

Contour System or the Precision Plus. I have gone

collaboration of top international

out there and selected what I believe are the best

trainers and distributors who will

pieces of equipment for each area of the face

promote industry awareness

and body.”

Regulation and training There are virtually no risks or downtime associated with semi-permanent make-up, when done correctly, however one of the biggest problems is when the result is too dramatic or the wrong combination of pigments is used so that you get a coloured tint that does not look natural. This can be undone with laser but it is a long painful process and the mistake will be a visible and daily reminder to the patient that something has gone wrong, causing them a lot of psychological distress. This should not happen in the hands of a skilled practitioner however Karen is keen to stress how vital training is in this field, as with any aspect of medical aesthetics, especially as, like the cosmetic injectables industry, micropigmentation is unregulated. She says, “Training is really important. Our training can be anything from eight days to the Platinum level, which is 45 days. We are saying to people now that we want them to be around us, learning and observing for a good year. That’s not to say they are in classes every day but I want people who train with us to go out there and be as good as me. If you are doing just a short class or learning on DVD it makes me worried. I even got told that there are now courses on ebay and those are the people that are going to give the industry a bad name – there is no way they are going to be able to pick up the necessary skills to start treating people’s faces. At the end of the day would you want someone to tattoo your face who had been on a short course and had no idea? Its not that you can’t remove it is just the trauma that it creates and this can give the industry a bad name.”

26

cosmeticnewsuk.com


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Q&A | Dr Tim Flynn

A Q&

We caught up with leading US dermatologist Tim Flynn at this year’s IMCAS meeting to talk about his career in cosmetic dermatology and the results of a head to head trial comparing Botox® and Bocouture® Dr Tim Flynn’s CV is impressive to say the least. A Board Certified dermatologist and former secretary of the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery, he has numerous published papers to his name and is one of the world’s foremost experts on skin cancer and dermatologic surgery. Dr Flynn studied for his dermatology residency at Stanford University where he was Chief Resident and completed his Dermatologic and Mohs Micrographic Surgery fellowship at Washington University in St Louis. He developed the Dermatologic Surgery and Mohs Micrographic Surgery program at Tulane University in New Orleans and served as its director from 1993-2001. As an Associate Professor at Tulane, he held appointments in both Dermatology and Otolaryngology – Head and Neck Surgery. He has also been a research fellow at Harvard University and the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. He is active in multiple dermatologic societies including the American Academy of Dermatology, the International Academy of Cosmetic Dermatology, the European Academy of Dermatology, the International Society for Dermatology and the Dermatologic Laser Surgery. Dr Flynn was recently involved in a head to head study comparing Botox®/Vistabel® (Allergan) with new botulinum toxin Bocouture® (Merz Aesthetics) published in the December 2010 issue of the Journal of Dermatologic Surgery, a peer-reviewed publication of the American Society of Dermatologic Surgery. We caught up with him at the 13th annual IMCAS meeting in Paris in between his busy lecturing schedule to talk about it…

and either maintain somebody where they are or reverse the signs of ageing that they have experienced.

CN: In the course of your career you have worked with all the different types of botulinum toxins out there, how does Bocouture® compare with the other products on the market? TF: Really from all the studies that have been done, and there have been some very good studies, Bocouture® or Xeomin® looks to be identical to Botox®/Botox® Cosmetic (Vistabel®). There are very very strong studies that have been done in the United States, we call them pivotal trials, in the glabellar folds. First there was a dose finding study – with 10, 20, 30 units injected – then finally a phase III trial was done with 20 units injected into the glabellar where they saw a very high significant number of responders. What was different about that clinical trial was that patients had to move up two steps on the wrinkle scale rather than one, and it had

Cosmetic News: Tell us a bit about your background in cosmetic dermatology…

have other products that can even go deeper

to be two steps with both the physicians

such as Sculptra and Radiesse. These products,

and the patient themselves. So in a sense

Dr Tim Flynn: Well I am a US based

especially when used together, can produce

we were actually looking at how much

dermatologist and dermatologic surgeon so all

remarkably good results.

improvement you can get and were asking for the toxin to do more.

of my practice is either aesthetic surgery or skin cancer reconstructive surgery, I don’t do any

What we are doing now is really beginning

general dermatology. Around the middle of

to pay attention to all aspects of the ageing

the 90s I got very very excited about botulinum

face, so its not just muscles, its not just wrinkles,

toxin and have spent a number of years doing

its not just a loss of volume – it is everything that

research in this area, working with many of the

occurs. Working together with our plastic surgery

CN: Tell us about the head to head study published in the Journal of Dermatologic Surgery that you were on the independent review panel for…

new toxins that are out. Botulinum toxin has just

colleagues we have understood that there

TF: As I said, when we look at the data for

revolutionised what we can do with minimally

are deeper changes that occur too, such as

Bocouture® it looks identical to Botox®, but

invasive treatments for the face. First in America

soft tissue atrophy and bone loss. These are just

how would we really know that if we didn’t

we had collagen, then we had botulinum toxin,

natural consequences of the ageing process

do a head to head trial? This trial was done

then we had hyaluronic acids and now we

and we have to put everything into play to try

in Germany and also in the UK and I had the

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cosmeticnewsuk.com


HEAD TO HEAD STUDY IN SUMMARY The prospective, randomised, rater and patient blind, parallel group, international Phase III study was conducted at 20 active centres in Germany, UK and Austria, involving a total of 381 patients.

Key study findings included: • Comparably high response rates for both products at maximum frown four weeks after injection as rated by the panel of independent raters (96.4% for Bocouture® and 95.7% for Vistabel®)

Patients were randomised in a 3:1 Bocouture® to Vistabel® ratio to receive 24 units of either Bocouture® or Vistabel®, divided into five identical injection points. Efficacy end points included the percentage of responders (patients with an improvement of at least one point on a four-point facial wrinkle scale) at maximum frown at weeks four and 12 as assessed by the investigators, the patients and a panel of independent raters based on standardised digital photographs.

Comparably high response rates for both products at maximum frown 12 weeks after injection as rated by the panel of independent raters (80.1% for Bocouture® and 78.5% for Vistabel®)

The objective of the study was to confirm the non-inferiority of Bocouture® a botulinum toxin type A free from complexing proteins (150kDa) to Vistabel®, a conventional botulinum toxin Type A complex (900kD) in the treatment of glabellar frown lines.

Results showed that Bocouture® and Vistabel® show comparable response rates and improvement in the treatment of glabellar frown lines and that both preparations are equally well tolerated.

Patient assessment confirmed high response rates and comparable efficacy of both products at weeks four and 12 after injection

pleasure of participating, along with Berthold

spasticity or cerebral palsy, you are going to

excited about in the States, and are trying to

Rzany and Alastair Carruthers, by being on the

decrease the immunologic load by using a

impress upon some of our patients, is that the

independent review panel. We took over 300

toxin with a higher protein level, so we feel

time to start with minimally invasive therapy

subjects (381) and injected a number of them

that there is a lesser chance of somebody

is when you first begin the ageing process

with Botox® and about double that number with

developing an allergy to that toxin which

– don’t wait until you are 50 to do this, start

Bocouture®. Why not one to one? Because we

results in a non-response – in other words the

when you are first noticing some glabellar

were trying to weight it towards Bocouture®, so if

person gets an anti-body to the toxin so when

complex folds or nasolabial folds. Start then

it didn’t work as well or if it had more side effects

you inject them all of a sudden you don’t see

and maintain it. Some people think that that

we would have more data points. But when

anything and you have to switch products. That

seems like a big challenge having to come in

we compared the data, they were absolutely

being said in cosmetics, when we use just 10s of

every three months or so but the reality is that,

identical – the responder rate was exactly the

units, we have not seen a lot of non-responders

although the toxins do have to be repeated,

same, the side effect profile was exactly the

although there have been some reports in the

many of our HA fillers are lasting a year, and

same. There has been a further study by Wolf

literature. We have been using these toxins now

once you do this you can maintain a youthful

Prager. Dr Prager and his colleagues looked at Bocouture® versus Botox® Cosmetic in the crow’s feet and they found they are identical, so for as much as we can tell, and with very good robust studies, these are identical products.

CN: Bocouture® is free from protein – what does this mean and how does this affect its performance? TF: We have found that Bocouture®/ Xeomin®, especially in the therapeutic milieu, is basically a purer toxin as it does not have the complexing proteins and therefore there

We have found that Bocouture®/ Xeomin®, especially in the therapeutic millieu, is basically a purer toxin, as it does not have the complexing proteins and therefore there is less chance of antigenicity

is less chance of antigenicity. Bocouture® is a

150 kilodalton protein (in the vial there is some

for up to 15 years or and we are still not seeing

look. I often think a lady could go out and

sucrose which is expedient) whereas Botox® is a

a lot of problems, so these are very very safe

spend £500 on a new outfit and she might do

900 kilodalton toxin – it has the actual toxin itself

products.

that three or four times a year – well what’s

but surrounded by some extra proteins. What

more important than your face! Its good to

CN: What is your experience with the preventative effects of botulinum toxin?

spend that money on your appearance.

this complex in at physiologic ph, you get rapid disassociation of the toxin from the complex

TF: We really believe, and there is data to

programme rather than giving them treatment.

within about a minute, so we have a toxin in

support this, that with repeated injections you

What is also good about that is that it allows

the vial (Botox®) that has complexing proteins

actually get improvement of the wrinkles at

us to incorporate not only fillers and toxins

and once we put it in the skin the proteins and

rest. We know the skin can remodel itself. If you

but also skincare – if we can get people on a

the toxin separate so you get the effect of an

think of ladies that get pregnant – particularly

skincare regime to treat any surface changes

actual naked toxin if you will and so that’s why

thin ladies who get these big basketball

and provide them with photoprotection,

we get this direct overlap. In the therapeutic

tummies – they have a baby and their skin is

treat the moving muscles of the face, treat

milieu where you are using hundreds of units

able to resorb, and we think the face is also

the underlying facial structure we are looking

of toxin to treat someone with major muscle

capable of doing this. What we are really

pretty good.

we have come to find out is that when you put

We want to get people on a maintenance

cosmeticnewsuk.com

29


View On | Bocouture® vs Botox®

UKBTGA POSITION STATEMENT The UK Botulinum Toxin Group for Aesthetics recently issued a position statement and guidance on the relative potency of Xeomin®/Bocouture® versus Botox®/Vistabel®. Here we take a look at their conclusions…

The Group adopted the position that animal studies could not be extrapolated to the human setting. Review of the summary of the product characteristics (SmPC) for Bocouture®, found no reference to a reduced potency. The product was labelled as containing 50 units as measured by the mouse LD50 assay. The group felt that if a genuine reduction in potency existed with Bocouture® it was the place of the regulatory authorities to detect this and recommend a change in the use of Bocouture® and not for an Industry competitor. Recent PMCPA ruling on the use of potency comparison arguments by Allergan found these comparisons could not be substantiated and did not reflect all the evidence.

BACKGROUND Over the past 24 months, claims have been made by BoNT-A manufactures with regard to reduced potency of Xeomin® (Merz

Last month the United Kingdom Botulinum Toxin Group for Aesthetics (UKBTGA) issued a position statement and guidance on the relative potency of Xeomin®/Bocouture® versus Botox®/ Vistabel®. The UKBTGA is an academic working group comprised of surgeons, physicians, dentists and nurses who use Botulinum Toxin Type A (BoNT-A) in their aesthetic practice. One of the group’s aims is to publish position statements and guidance for its extended membership on issues it feels is necessary to support the safe use of BoNT-A’s. The report was authored by Dr Ravi Jandhyala, Dr Dalvi Humzah, Dr Mark Hamilton, Helen Hannigan, Dr Stephen Kaldor, Dr Ravi Jain, Dr David Eccleston, Dr Tapan Patel and Dr Sandeep Cliff.

Aesthetics, Germany) vs Botox® (Allergan, USA). The United Kingdom Botulinum Toxin Group for Aesthetics (UKBTGA) recognised the need to clarify the issue and provide considered guidance to its extended membership. The group understood the importance of correct use of any BoNT-A in the aesthetic indication and the potential harm that may be caused conflicting information on potency. Specifically, The group was concerned that a potential harmful situation might occur if those injecting Xeomin®/ Bocouture® were to increase the dose of this product in light of the claims its reduced potency, creating a situation of potential overdose.

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY Group members with experience of the 1:1 conversion ratio between Botox®/Vistabel® and Xeomin®/Bocouture® have not seen

a difference in the clinical endpoints of onset or duration of action. In the published literature reviewed by the

group, only one related to a clinical situation where the aesthetics indication was being examined. This study showed equipotency between the two products. The group were unable to find independent substantiation of reduced potency of Xeomin®/Bocouture® compared to Botox®/Vistabel® as published by Hunt T. The Hunt and Clarke study provided by Allergan was the sole piece of evidence supporting Allergan’s claim of reduced potency of Xeomin® vs Botox®. This was an Allergan study carried out by Allergan employees. Its findings were opposed by a similar study carried out by Dressler (2008). Both these studies were animal studies using the mouse LD50 Assay.

30

cosmeticnewsuk.com

FINAL GUIDANCE TO THE UKBTGA EXTENDED MEMBERSHIP:

METHODS

The Extended Membership of the UKBTGA should disregard claims made in recent aesthetics congresses and in the published literature that Xeomin®/Bocouture® is any way subpotent compared to Botox®/Vistabel®. The clinical published evidence in both the aesthetics and neurology indication supports equipotency of 100/50 units each product. Therefore, equal units of each product, when injected into patients wishing to receive treatment for frown lines, have been shown to provide the same response.

and Allergan UK Ltd and requested any

The Group approached both Merz Aesthetics information the manufacturers wished them to consider in writing its position statement on the relative potency of Botox®/Vistabel® vs Xeomin®/Bocouture®. The group then considered each reference in turn in conjunction with the first hand experiences of its members. Particular note was made of the recent ruling made by the Prescriptions Medicines Code of Practice Authority (PMCPA) on Allergan’s use of the Hunt and Clarke publication.

CONCLUSION The UKBTGA felt that it had considered all the clinical evidence in a range of indications as well as relevant regulatory documents and other official rulings on the matter. The UKBTGA could find no evidence to support claims subpotency of Xeomin®/Bocouture® vs Botox®/Vistabel®. The extended membership should consider 50 or 100 units of each product to be of equal potency.


Your partner in injectable facial aesthetics

New Bocouture® Bocouture is indicated for the temporary improvement in the appearance of moderate to severe vertical lines between the eyebrows seen at frown (glabellar frown lines) in adults below 65 years when the severity of these lines has an important psychological impact for the patient.

Bocouture® 50 Abbreviated Prescribing Information Please refer to the Summary of Product characteristics (SmPc) before prescribing. Presentation 50 LD50 units of Botulinum toxin type A (150 kD), free from complexing proteins as a powder for solution for injection. Indications temporary improvement in the appearance of moderate to severe vertical lines between the eyebrows seen at frown (glabellar frown lines) in adults under 65 years of age when the severity of these lines has an important psychological impact for the patient. Dosage and administration unit doses recommended for Bocouture are not interchangeable with those for other preparations of Botulinum toxin. reconstitution with 0.9% sodium chloride unpreserved for intramuscular injection (50 units/1.25 ml). Standard dosing is 20 units; 0.1 ml (4 units) injected into each of the 5 injection sites: 2 injections in each corrugator muscle and 1x procerus muscle. May be increased to up to 30 units. use a thin sterile needle (e.g. 30 gauge). Intervals between treatments at least 3 months. Not recommended for use in patients over 65 years or under 18 years of age. use immediately after reconstitution. Superior and medial alignment of the needle should be maintained during the injection. Injections near the levator palpebrae superioris and into the cranial portion of the orbicularis oculi should be avoided. Injections into the corrugator muscle should be done in the medial portion of the muscle, and in the central portion of the muscle belly. contraindications Hypersensitivity to Botulinum neurotoxin type A or to any of the excipients. Generalised disorders of muscle activity (e.g. myasthenia gravis, Lambert-eaton syndrome). Presence of infection or inflammation at the proposed injection site. Special warnings and precautions Bocouture should only be used for one patient for one session. Should not be injected into a blood vessel. Patients may experience exaggerated muscle weakness. Not recommended for patients with a history of dysphagia and aspiration. Seek immediate medical care if swallowing, speech or respiratory disorders arise. Adrenaline and other medical aids for treating anaphylaxis should be available. caution if bleeding disorders of any type occur. caution in patients receiving anticoagulant therapy or taking other substances in anticoagulant doses. caution in patients suffering from amyotrophic lateral sclerosis or other diseases which result in peripheral neuromuscular dysfunction. caution in targeted muscles which display pronounced weakness or atrophy. too frequent or too high dosing of Botulinum toxin type A may increase the risk of antibodies forming. Should not be used during pregnancy unless clearly necessary. use during lactation cannot be recommended. Has a minor or moderate influence on the ability to drive and use machines. Interactions No interaction studies have been performed. theoretically Botulinum neurotoxin may be potentiated by aminoglycoside antibiotics or other medicinal products that interfere with neuromuscular transmission e.g. tubocurarine-type muscle relaxants. concomitant use with aminoglycosides or spectinomycin requires special care. Peripheral muscle relaxants should be used with caution. 4-aminoquinolines may reduce the effect. undesirable effects usually, undesirable effects are observed within the first week after treatment and are temporary in nature. Localised muscle weakness, blepharoptosis,

Botulinum toxin type A free from complexing proteins

localised pain, tenderness, itching, swelling and/or haematoma can occur in conjunction with the injection. temporary vasovagal reactions associated with pre-injection anxiety, such as syncope, circulatory problems, nausea or tinnitus, may occur. Frequency defined as follows: very common (≥ 1/10); common (≥ 1/100, < 1/10); uncommon (≥ 1/1000, < 1/100); rare (≥ 1/10,000, < 1/1000); very rare (< 1/10,000). Infections and infestations; uncommon: bronchitis, nasopharyngitis, influenza infection. Psychiatric disorders; uncommon: depression, insomnia Nervous system disorders; common: headache. uncommon: facial paresis (brow ptosis), vasovagal syncope, paraesthesia, dizziness. eye disorders; uncommon: eyelid oedema, eyelid ptosis, blurred vision, eye disorder, blepharitis, eye pain. ear and Labyrinth disorders; uncommon: tinnitus. Gastrointestinal disorders; uncommon: nausea, dry mouth. Skin and subcutaneous tissue disorders; uncommon: pruritus, skin nodule, photosensitivity, dry skin. Musculoskeletal and connective tissue disorders; common: muscle disorders (elevation of eyebrow), sensation of heaviness; uncommon: muscle twitching, muscle cramps. General disorders and administration site conditions uncommon: injection site reactions (bruising, pruritis), tenderness, Influenza like illness, fatigue (tiredness). General; In rare cases, localised allergic reactions; such as swelling, oedema, erythema, pruritus or rash, have been reported after treating vertical lines between the eyebrows (glabellar frown lines) and other indications. overdose Increased doses of Botulinum neurotoxin type A may result in pronounced neuromuscular paralysis distant from the injection site. Symptoms of overdose are not immediately apparent post-injection and may include general weakness, ptosis, diplopia, speech difficulties, paralysis of the respiratory muscles and swallowing difficulties which may result in an aspiration pneumonia. Bocouture may only be used by physicians with suitable qualifications and proven experience in the application of Botulinum toxin. Prescriber should consult the SmPc for full information regarding side effects. Legal category: PoM. Basic NHS Price 50 u/vial £72.00 Product Licence Number: PL 29978/0002 Marketing Authorisation Holder: Merz Pharmaceuticals GmbH, eckenheimer Landstraße 100, 60318 Frankfurt/Main, Germany. Date of revision of text: June 2010. Full prescribing information and further information is available from Merz Pharma uK Ltd., 260 centennial Park, elstree Hill South, elstree, Hertfordshire WD6 3Sr. tel: +44 (0) 333 200 4143 Adverse events should be reported. reporting forms and information can be found at www.yellowcard.gov.uk. Adverse events should also be reported to Merz Pharma uK Ltd at the address above or by email to medical.information@merz.com or on +44 (0) 333 200 4143. 1043/Boc/JAN/2011/JH. Date of preparation: Jan 2011. Bocouture® is a registered trademark of Merz Pharma GmbH & co, KGaA.


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Product Focus | At Home Laser and IPL

Let there be

light

Independent Laser Protection Adviser Godfrey Town on home-use laser and IPL devices

GODFREY TOWN is a clinical technologist and scientist specialising in the comparative measurement

Media exposure of light-based

been documented as far back as 2003 (1, 2).

of IPL and laser devices. He

technologies and medical as well as

Recent years have seen the launch, through

is a regular invited speaker

scientific validation that lasers and

catalogue shopping, on the high street and

at international aesthetic laser

Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) devices produce

online, of a number of home-use devices for

meetings and has published scientific and clinical papers in

measurable results in hair removal and skin

hair removal and skin rejuvenation. These

international peer-reviewed journals on the use of laser and

rejuvenation, has led to the introduction of

include major consumer brands such as

intense pulsed light (IPL) devices.

miniaturised, low-cost devices for in-home

Philips SatinLux, Boots Smooth Skin by iPulse

Godfrey runs international workshops and training courses

use by the consumer. Several leading

and Remington iLight. Home-use hair removal

for healthcare professionals and therapists in private practice

brands are now entering this expanding

devices from less well-known manufacturers

providing applications training for users of light-based

market sector but are these low-cost

have already been granted FDA-clearance

technology for hair removal, facial skin rejuvenation, acne

systems credible and how do they compare

in USA for over-the-counter sale to consumers

management and the treatment of benign pigmented and

with professional treatments? Godfrey Town

(Spectragenics, Tria and Home Skinovations,

vascular conditions. For five years, he was an owner-manager

is an international authority in light-based

Silk’n). Boots Smooth Skin home-use IPL has

of a successful UK private laser and IPL clinic. In the United

technologies and serves moren than 300

also sold in tens of thousands in the UK during

Kingdom, his LPA consultancy supports

laser establishments

over 300 private medical practices,

in UK as their Laser

1

2

the last year.

Protection Adviser.

Several safety and efficacy studies have also

laser and pulsed light devices for

In this article, he

appeared in international peer-reviewed

whom he also provides applications

offers some insight

journals confirming meaningful hair reduction

and accredited ‘core of knowledge’

into these new

figures and relatively few side effects, but

training, clinical protocol, regulatory

home-use devices.

still inferior to some professionally delivered

clinics and spas using more than 350

treatments. Whilst all of these studies were

and safety procedure support.

34

cosmeticnewsuk.com

Home-use light

medically supervised, rather than performed

based treatments

at home, it is clear that permanent hair

by consumers have

reduction results are acceptable (3, 4, 5, 6).


Safety is a major consideration for the consumer

adequate international standards we would

and the literature indicates that ocular

do well to scrutinise the available published

safety systems incorporated by reputable

clinical studies and compare claims made by

manufacturers position home-use lasers as Class

manufacturers with objective industry reports

I (i.e. ‘eye-safe’) devices. Home-use IPL devices

measuring the parameters of these devices (9,

have no specific international safety standard

10).

to comply with for optical radiation hazard and manufacturers should rely upon the IEC TR 60825-

As the beauty industry has seen with previous

9 and the International Committee on Non-

examples of home-use products, home waxing

Ionizing Radiation Protection (ICNIRP) Guidelines

kits and home electrolysis has had no impact

on Limits of Exposure to Broad-band Incoherent

on professional services. Another example is the

Optical Radiation. So far, I have found that only

may not be safe and we must be informed

recent popularising of home teeth-whitening

the iPulse home-use hair removal IPL has been

about the devices themselves and be ready to

amongst consumers, which has driven the

tested under these international standards (7).

‘pick up the pieces’ when home-use treatments

demand for professional treatments in almost

go wrong. We should also explore opportunities

every dental practice in the UK. With the recent

Roosen et al found in an in vitro study that one

to use proven home-use devices alongside our

increased publicity for home-use laser and

low-fluence IPL caused mild trauma to the hair

own professional treatments e.g. for on-going

IPL devices and the consequential raising of

shaft, interrupting the hair cycle and inducing

home-care top-up treatments as part of a total

consumer understanding and awareness, it

temporary hair loss (8). A preliminary histology

professional treatment regimen.

is reasonable to suppose that the same may already be true of

study with the iPulse home-use IPL by Trelles confirms that in several Skin Type II subjects,

Secondly, home-use devices are not suitable for

driving demand

primary thermal effects were evident in the hair

all skin types (usually excluding Fitzpatrick Skin

for professional

shaft due to thermal absorption including an

Types V-VI) and most FDA clearances do not

hair removal and

immediate inflammatory

so far allow use on

skin rejuvenation

infiltration reaction

the face and neck.

treatments.

of the perifolliculum together with changes in hair architecture and detachment from the skin. Further histological studies are needed to establish the extent of hair damage in these home-use devices. As the cost of technology has come down, recent years have seen an expansion in North America and most

“we must be informed about the devices and be ready to ‘pick up the pieces’ when home-use treatments go wrong”

These home-use devices also require significantly more treatments than is commonplace in the clinic environment where higher fluences, larger spot sizes and faster repetition rates permit a speedier and more

1. Rohrer TE, Chatrath V, Yamauchi P, et al. Can patients treat themselves with small a novel light based hair removal system? Laser Surg Med 2003; 33:25-29 2. Hodson DS. Current and Future Trends in Home Laser Devices Semin Cutan Med Surg 2008; 27:292-300 3. Wheeland RG. Consumer use of a battery-powered,

efficient treatment

handheld, portable diode laser (810nm) for hair

with the reassurance

removal: a safety, efficacy and ease-of-use study.

of professional counselling and support.

European countries in the

REFERENCES

Laser Surg Med 2007; 39:476–493 4. Alster TS, Tanzi EL. Effect of a novel, low-energy, pulsed-light device for home-use hair removal. Dermatol Surg 2009; 35:483–489

use of IPL devices by non-medically qualified therapist operators outside of the medical

Thirdly, many consumers will be uncertain about

5. Mulholland, RS. Silk’n - A novel device using Home

clinic, in spas and salons. Given the huge

issues of safety, suitability for use with underlying

Pulsed Light™ for hair removal at home. J Cosmet

consumer demand for cosmetic hair removal,

medical conditions (e.g. diabetes, epilepsy,

it is perhaps unsurprising that companies are

hormonal conditions, etc) and contra-indicated

eager to offer new technology products to the

medication.

low fluence, home-use intense pulsed light device: Preliminary Results. J Cosmet Laser Ther 2009; Vol.

general public. Lastly, many home-use users will still require Where does all this leave the professional salon

professional treatments for difficult body areas

practitioner and the client?

and conditions not treatable at home such as intimate body areas, backs, pseudo-folliculitis

Firstly, we need to recognise the home-use

barbae, polycystic ovaries and the treatment of

products are already here and growing in

acne, benign pigmented and vascular lesions.

number and popularity, whether we want it or not. Some of them are ineffective and some

Laser Ther 2009; 11:2:106-109 6. Emerson R, Town G. Hair removal with a novel,

11:2:98-105 7. Eadie E, Miller P, Goodman T, Moseley H, Assessment of the Optical Radiation Hazard From a Home-Use Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) Source. Laser Surg Med 2009; 40:520–528. 8. Roosen G, Westgate G, Philpott M, Berretty P, Nuijs T, Bjerring P. Temporary Hair Removal by Low Fluence Photoepilation: Histological Study on Biopsies and

As experts in this field we must maintain our professional position and be ready to offer paid-for

Cultured Human Hair Follicles. Lasers Surg Med 2008; 40: 520–528 9. Town G, Ash C. Measurement of Home Use Laser

consultation support to cosmetic

and Intense Pulsed Light Systems for Hair Removal:

clients seeking help in resolving

Preliminary Report. J Cosmet Laser Ther 2009;

any issues related to selftreatments or offering in-salon treatments where home-use is

11:157–168 10. Town G, Ash C. Are home-use intense pulsed light (IPL) devices safe? Lasers Med Sci 2010; 25:773–780.

unsuitable. In the absence of

cosmeticnewsuk.com

35


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Super

Clinical Study | Laser Hair Removal

We examine the results of a study published in Lasers in Medical Science on the efficacy of the Soprano laser in treating phototypes III to V for hair removal

SOPRANO

In October 2010 a study was published in Lasers in Medical Science showing the efficacy of hair removal using the Soprano laser. The study was authored by Josefina Royo, Fernándo Urdiales, Javier Moreno, Marwan Al-Zarouni, Paloma Cornejo and Mario A. Trelles and was entitled ‘Six-month follow-up multicenter prospective study of 368 patients, phototypes III to V, on epilation efficacy using an 810nm diode laser at low fluence’. Here we summarise its results… MATERIALS AND METHODS Patients

A study was carried out on 368 patients treated at three centers in Madrid, Malaga and Dubai.

Patients’ ages ranged from 19 to 58 years of age (mean age 32.4). Patients were scheduled to receive a maximum of five treatments in total at a fixed interval of two months between each epilation session. Then, six months after the fifth

session, the patients were evaluated. Results were assessed at the fifth session and at the follow-up six months after the last session (in total a followup of 14 months). Patients were advised to stop treatment if they were satisfied with the results of

Results obtained a high degree of patient satisfaction and a low index of adverse events (and) laser epilation was well accepted

the sessions already carried out, even if they had

ABSTRACT Laser hair removal is currently a popular cosmetic procedure. Traditional high-fluence laser treatment for hair elimination is associated with discomfort and adverse events and it is restricted to low phototype skins. A multicenter study of hair epilation with low fluences and high repetition pulse rate using an 810nm diode laser was carried out on 368 patients (phototypes III to V) to test its efficacy in a six-month follow--up after five treatments on the face and various body areas. Objective and subjective assessment as well as histologies show a high index of patient satisfaction due to high efficacy of hair elimination, also proved histologically by the damage observed at hair structure level. Results obtained a high degree of patient satisfaction and a low index of adverse events. Laser epilation was well accepted regarding discomfort and was also complication-free for dark and tanned skins. Treatment was easy to conduct and requires adapting the movement of the hand-piece to a constant speed in order to achieve highenergy deposit on tissue avoiding risks of burning.

or accumulative epilation. The thermal energy is deposited in the dermis by constant movement of the hand-piece over the target area of skin. Treatment technique was always and in all cases similar, involving the lateral movement of the hand-piece in a constant sweeping mode. The

not completed the five treatments. In any case,

years (47); 41–60 years (22). Of the total number

skin surface for treatment was divided into 10°-10

patients were asked to attend the follow-up six

of patients, 31 were male (8.42%) and 337

cm squares and each received a total of 9.6 kJ.

months after the last epilation session.

female (91.58%). Treated areas were 206 axillae,

Thus, each 1cm2 of skin received on average 9.6

93 bikini line, 11 lower abdomen, 55 pubis, and

J/cm2 (9600J/100cm2=96 J/cm2). The reason for

three thorax.

dividing the treatment area into 100cm2 areas

Exclusion criteria included:

was to provide homogenous exposure to laser

Patients under 18 years of age

Pregnancy

Laser system and treatment

Lactation

The laser system used was the Soprano™ XL

Scars or infection in the treatment area

laser (Alma™ Lasers). This device operates

RESULTS

A history of scarring

a conventional 810nm diode laser system,

Efficacy

Repeated herpes infections

which, although designed for a traditional

Two different therapists unfamiliar with the study

form of medical epilation, can also be tuned

gave their opinion regarding the percentage

Criteria for admission permitted the enrolment

for emission in the so-called SHR or ‘super hair

of clearance of hair density at the follow-up

of patients with medium and thick hair, with

removal’ mode.

six months after the fifth session. The results of

pulses and to carry out systematic epilation.

the 368 epilated areas treated were as follows:

phototypes III to V, and even those who were tanned. Patients were distributed as

In this mode, the 810nm diode laser uses

0–24% (29 patients); 25–49% (102 patients);

follows: phototype III (102); phototype IV (211);

low-fluence pulse emission. This technology

50–74% (219 patients); 75–100% (18 patients). No

phototype V (55). Age: 18–30 years (299); 31–40

proposes an increased profile of heat in tissue,

paradoxical effects were observed.

cosmeticnewsuk.com

37


Clinical Study | Laser Hair Removal PATIENT SATISFACTION AND PAIN EVALUATION AND DOCTOR’S OBJECTIVE EVALUATION

PATIENT ASSESSMENT (PAIN)NPIS

Area

No of Sessions

Armpit (206)

Very High Average Low High

PATIENT SATISFACTION (GAIS) Very Good 75-100%

Good Average

6

4 2

1 87 16 62 11 4 19 66 6 2

Pubis (55) 275

12

4

9 30 6 44 5 0 19 33 2 1

Lower abdomen (11) 55 Total

0

1 2 0

0 1 10

3 0

0 4

1,840 21 10 60 227 31

258

21 18

140

Poor

3

15 0 0

31

Very Good

465

Pectorals (3)

145

Poor 0-24%

1,030

Bikini (93)

48 148 9

Good Average 50-74% 25-49%

PHYSICIAN’S OPINION

39 9

0 0 0 3 0

6 1 0 1 7 53

26

3

56 240 57 15

Histologies

differences compared with untanned

Prior to and immediately post-

patients, either with regard to efficacy or

treatment, the configuration of

adverse events.

the epidermis was normal and the stratum corneum present as well

Efficacy of treatment, as judged by

as the keratin were intact with no

patients, was very high with a range

identifiable changes. In nine of the

of between 75 and 100%. The degree

15 patients biopsied, cytopathic and

of discomfort during the sessions on

vacuole changes at the basal layer

successive days was low, and treatment

were present. There was also focal epidermolysis at this level. Edema was mild and more prevalent in the superficial dermis

Laser epilation of the axillae. Progressive hair loss is notable in the before images prior to each laser session and at the six-month follow-up

was well accepted. Skin phototype III patients with fairer hair

and hair shafts presented architectural

were noticed to respond slightly less to

changes with some inflammatory infiltration.

epilation than dark-haired patients. However, these patients were also

Safety

satisfied with the results of epilation

Intense erythema and perifollicular

and none presented any long-term

edema were noticed in most patients at

adverse effects.

each of the sessions but these signs were transient. Pseudofolliculitis was observed

CONCLUSIONS

mostly in the perineum. First-degree burns

This six-month study on epilation using

occurred in three axillae, two bikini-line,

an 810nm diode laser pulsed at 10

two perineum, and two lower abdomen.

Hz at low fluence provides efficacy,

Second-degree burns occurred in three sessions (one axilla, one bikini line, and one perineum). Hyperpigmentation was observed in one axilla and one bikini

safety, and comfort with a high Laser epilation of the axillae. Progressive hair loss is notable in the before images prior to each laser session and at the six-month follow-up

line, and hypopigmentation in three

degree of patient satisfaction. The 368 areas epilated in patients phototypes III to V over a total of five

axillae, two bikini line, three perineum,

was gradual and proportional to the number

and three lower abdomen. However, no long-

of sessions carried out. Clearance at six months

follow-up six months no longer presented any

term adverse effects (six months after the fifth

after the fifth session was greater than that

adverse signs.

session) were noticed.

observed in the prior assessment at the fifth

sessions, every two months, at the final

session. Residual hair was similar at the follow-up

The results show an absence of significant

The appearance of short-term adverse effects

prior to the fifth session and six months after the

lesions in the epidermis and no permanent

was minimal (appearing in 13 out of 1,840

last session, even in those dark-haired patients

adverse events. Treatment is easily

sessions: 0.7%). This observation differed from

of phototypes IV and V.

implemented and comfortable, but requires

other papers regarding statistics of adverse

adapting the movement of the hand-piece

effects appearing in the short-term, which

Patients reported that hair was gradually

to avoid such risks as burning. The results show

reflect a higher percentage of transitory and

falling off after the laser session, which differs

efficacy without hair re-growth for a longer

postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (10%) and

from conventional laser epilation, which

period than that of hair growth, being a safe,

postinflammatory hypopigmentation (2%) [1, 2].

immediately eliminates hair after the laser pulse.

convenient therapeutic resource for patients of

In fact, according to patients, two or three

high skin phototypes.

Discussion

weeks following treatment with the 810nm SHR

The authors noted that the degree of clearance

depilation mode, hair will be seen to reappear

of hair density was similar in their experience to

but will fall when rubbed. Patients were satisfied,

that obtained with conventional epilation [1].

presenting fewer and some finer residual hairs in

The areas that reacted most favorably were the

all treated areas.

bikini-line, the perineum, and the axillae, which coincide with the observations of epilation

Of the 1,840 sessions carried out in total, 82

using other laser systems. Hair loss per session

patients with residual tanning showed no

38

cosmeticnewsuk.com

REFERENCES 1. Sorin E, Li C, Newman N (2001) Laser hair removal with alexandrite versus diode laser using four treatment sessions: 1-year results. Dermatol Surg 27(11):925–930 2. Eremia S, Li CY, Umar SH, Newman N (2001) Laser hair removal: long-term results with 755-nm alexandrite laser. Dermatol Surg 27(11):920–924


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See the difference


Treatment Spotlight | Electrolysis

NOT JUST A ONE

Trick Pony ELAINE STODDART ON THE VERSATILITY OF ELECTROLYSIS

ELAINE STODDART

As well as having the same number of syllables, ‘ver-sa-til-ity’ and ‘e-lec-trol-y-sis’ are two words that belong together. Electrolysis, still the only proven permanent method of hair removal to date, is versatility personified. From humble beginnings, as a primitive medical treatment for trichiasis, the medical benefits of permanent hair removal became quickly recognised. The ‘cosmetic awareness’ and growth which accompanied that, through to its more recent development into minor cosmetic procedures, illustrates the versatility of electrolysis.

Elaine Stoddart is director of training and PR for

Invented by ophthalmologist Dr Charles E

the lid due to ageing, however some races,

Sterex Electrolysis International Ltd. She is the most

Michel in 1875 using a Galvanic/Direct current

(particularly Asian), trichiasis of the lower lids

electrolysis was featured in the medical

often occurs near the punctum and there are

journal, The Lancet. From this research other

congenital causes (e.g. ephiblepharon and

practitioners and therapists in this subject matter.

ophthalmologists practiced this method and

districhiasis) and acquired causes such as

With a Cert Ed. Teaching Degree and assessing

electrolysis for trichiasis became an accepted

trauma, marginal entropion.

awards, she also gained many years of experience

and popular treatment. In trichiasis, the

lecturing in FE colleges. She is co-author of two S/

eyelashes grow abnormally. On the upper

Distichiasis (a relatively rare condition) is where

NVQ Level 3 Beauty Therapy books published by

eyelid there are approximately 150 eyelashes

an additional row of lashes lie posterior to the

Heinemann (2004) and Pearsons (2010) and is a

arranged in three or four rows and on the lower

normal lashes. These grow from the meibomian

eyelid there are about 75 in two rows. Trichiasis is

gland orifices, which are not normally hair

where one or more lashes of the upper or lower

producing sebaceous glands.

prolific trainer in advanced electrolysis/cosmetic procedures (ACP) in the UK and has trained surgeons, doctors, nurses and many other medical

highly respected international speaker in electrolysis and advanced electrolysis. She is a member of BABATC, on their ‘ask the expert’ panel, she sits on the City and Guilds National Advisory Committee and

eyelid grow in a distorted fashion and turn in

is an Associate of the Royal Society of Medicine.

towards the cornea. They grow from follicles at

Entrophion is a condition in which the eyelid

distorted angles, from meibomian gland orifices

turns inwards against the ball of the eye and is

or from other areas of the eyelids or conjunctiva

classified as congenital, ageing or cicatrical.

which are normally free of eyelash growth.

Cicatrical lashes result from acute or chronic

Marginal entropion is the most common cause

inflammation caused by e.g. herpes, blepharitis,

TYPES OF TRICHIASIS Ephiblepharon, Distichiasis, Trichiasis and Normal Eyelashes

of trichiasis in adults and happens

and rosacea.

when the posterior eyelid margin

40

cosmeticnewsuk.com

becomes rounded. This causes

Ephiblepharon Seen most commonly in Asian

the lashes to become distorted

children involving only the lower eyelids where

and is considered a mild form

the lashes are pushed against the ball of the

of cicatricial entropion. Usually

eye due to skin and muscle riding above the

trichiasis results from changes in

lid margin.


TYPES OF ELECTROLYSIS Following Charles E Michel’s invention Professor Paul Kree recognised the cosmetic potential of this system of permanent hair removal and the Kree Company launched the multiple needle technique epilator, which for the first time offered hirsute women a lifeline. Kree thought electrolysis was brilliant but it was very slow at the time, taking up to one to two minutes per hair. His simple but original idea was to speed up the system by inserting a number of needles into several hair follicles at one time and then waiting the required time. Instead of the removal of one hair per minute, 10-20 hairs per minute became a practical solution for the cosmetic consumer market. Today there are three methods of electrolysis: • The original Galvanic method coupled with the 21st MULTIPLE NEEDLE century technology now takes 10 seconds+ MACHINE • The Thermolysis (or Short Wave Diathermy) method which utilises an Alternating current • The more modern method – Blend, hailed as being the most effective method Galvanic Method The Galvanic DC (Direct Current) method causes a chemical reaction in the salt and water in the follicle. This reaction creates a chemical called Sodium Hydroxide or Lye, inhibiting blood and nourishment to the cells, which cause hair growth. Thermolysis or Short Wave Diathermy Method Thermolysis uses an alternating current at a high frequency and low voltage. This causes the water molecules around the follicle to vibrate resulting in the production of heat, stopping the blood supply to the root, which weakens and eventually destroys the hair. Blend Method The Blend method combines Galvanic and Thermolysis. This is the most effective method because the lye is more efficient at weakening the hair when heated. This is the quickest and commonly reported as the most comfortable method. The Sterex SX-B Blend epilator uses this technology and also offers Short Wave Diathermy or Galvanic individually. Electrolysis is not only versatile because of the various methods that can be deployed but also because of the versatility of the range of treatments it can provide from one simple machine. There will always be one of the many methods of epilation suitable for a particular client as electrolysis offers

SEE US AT

effective permanent hair removal for all skin types and all hair types which no other hair removal system can offer. It provides the answer for both the hirsute female to the transgender client wanting Gender Reassignment Surgery and requiring many hours of genital work in addition to facial and other areas work as well as offering cosmetic relief for the consumer with mild hirsutism. Electrolysis is also performed at veterinary surgeries as eyelash disorders are common in dogs and horses. Picture Right: Charlie, a one year old, long haired daschshund with ectopic cilia on his upper and lower lid margins especially at the medial canthus of his right eye being treated with electrolysis. Electrolysis continues to be an accepted treatment for trichiasis and other distortions of eyelid hair growth as well as for the removal of minor cosmetically disfiguring blemishes without surgery, stitches or any visible scarring. Treatment can be performed on many skin disorders for cosmetic purposes, resulting in a real visible reduction in the appearance of that blemish or disorder. Treatment pertaining to blemishes such as telangiectasia, vascular blemishes, milia, all members of the wart family, fibrous blemishes, fibroepithelial polyps, cosmetic visible reduction in the appearance of moles, xanthlasma, syringoma, sebaceous hyperplasia and sebaceous cysts, dermatosis papula nigra and many more are highly effective and successful.

stand num

353

ber


Product News | Round Up

News

Product Medik8® launches Titanium Dermastamp

Medik8® has launched the Titanium Dermastamp to compliment its existing dermal rollering therapy. A convenient and multi purpose device the Titanium Dermastamp uses precision-engineered titanium needles to penetrate the epidermis of the skin and provide penetration pathways to enhance the absorption and consequently, the power of the topically applied skincare product. The extreme precision capabilities of the Titanium Dermastamp provide tremendous accuracy meaning it can be used on all areas of the face and body including around the delicate eye and peri-oral area and those usually difficult to treat with the Medik8® Dermaroller. As with the traditional Medik8® Dermaroller therapy, Dermastamp is suitable for all skin types and comes with minimal risk and contraindications. Medik8® Titanium Dermastamp is available in three models: Medik8® Titanium Dermastamp Personal 0.2mm & 0.3mm (Trade: £12.34 RRP: £29.00); Medik8® Titanium Dermastamp Clinical Models 0.3mm & 0.5mm (Trade: £14.50 RRP: N/A) and Medik8® Titanium Dermastamp Medical Models 0.5mm, 1.0mm & 1.5mm (Trade: £14.50

PRIORI® launches dietary supplements PRIORI® has created a range of dietary supplements to complement and enhance the results of its three professional skincare ranges. PRIORI® Advanced AHA Dietary Supplements (Trade £21.50 RRP £39.00) helps to achieve and maintain basic skin health and are an excellent choice to add into a daily health routine. This complete health supplement provides all the key ingredients that nourish your body’s cells to promote a radiant glow, reduce the appearance and speed healing of blemishes, eczema acne and rosacea, rebalance skin and reduce inflammation allowing the strengthening of connective tissues. PRIORI® CoffeeBerry® Dietary Supplements (Trade £26.75 RRP £48) are 100% natural and contain CoffeeBerry Fruit Extract, the most powerful botanical anti-ageing and antioxidant ingredient available. This healing inclusive health supplement has no preservatives and one serving of supplements is equal to 12 servings of fruit. PRIORI® Idebenone® Dietary Supplements (Trade £27 RRP £49) are the first Superceutical® Skin Supplement containing Idebenone, one of the safest and most potent antioxidants known. This restorative supplement is a super antioxidant with enhanced anti-ageing abilities thanks to its key ingredient Idebenone, which helps to enhance energy, cognition and mental awareness, reduce cellular and skin ageing, protect cells and organs, support your metabolism and provides extraordinary protection against free radical damage.

RRP: N/A).

No needle mesotherapy

Celluwell Sonic proves to be success in UK and Ireland The new Celluwell Sonic fat and cellulite elimination system is already proving a huge success internationally; now, through UK and Ireland distributor Bella Vita International, the system is taking off in the UK and Ireland to great acclaim from salons and aesthetic

The first ever Fusion Mesotherapy machine in the

clinics where it is featured.

UK has been launched at the prestigious Sloane Avenue salon, Aldo Coppola. The machine will

The device, described as a cavitation system, is non-surgical

be used for needle-free mesotherapy treatments

and has been medically researched and developed by

and works by transmitting topical products

the famous Cerri Organisation in Italy. It has also undergone

through radio-frequency (RF) waves to the

independent clinical trials, leading to a Patent on the

dermal layer of the skin without needles or

ultrasound delivery system, which has been proven to literally

causing pain and skin damage.

zap the fat and cellulite in the key areas of abdomen, buttocks, thighs and upper arms, whilst leaving other structures

The benefits of the radio-

such a blood vessels and nerves intact. The ultrasound head

frequency (RF) method

is fitted with unique sensors, which constantly monitor the

are not only the pain free

thickness of the fat layer, and ensures that the exact amount

effects but it also enhances

of power is emitted to safely and quickly destroy the fat cells

the transdermal transport of

in target areas.

topical products, through

42

the epidermis to the dermis,

Karen Johnson, MD of Bella Vita International says, “There has

clearing a pathway for products to penetrate

been massive interest in the Celluwell Sonic both from clients

deeper into the skin. At the same time the

looking for real results from the treatment sessions and from principals of aesthetic clinics and

radiofrequency (RF) increases the skin temperature

salons who like the considerable extra revenue that the system generates for them. The results

from 5 to 7°C to stimulate the collagen synthesis

have been extremely good with clients particularly liking the comfortable, non invasive nature

and skin tightening.

of the treatment together with instant, visible results”.

cosmeticnewsuk.com


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Business Focus | Printing

A Dummies Guide to

Print

Marcus Davitt tells us why we shouldn’t be forgetting print media in this digital age and gives us his back to basics guide

With all the hype surrounding digital media, poor old print has been pushed to the back of the closet and has even been branded as ‘dead’. However, print still holds its own and it is important to embrace and integrate all forms of media as part of an integrated marketing communications mix – this ensures real strength in your marketing messages and a truly consistent, powerful brand. Printed items provide a tangible means of communicating

your brand and services, can get your message in front of an audience without waiting for them to find you and are an

But as quantities increase, the unit cost goes down with offset printing

Very short runs can be much more cost effective with digital

excellent opportunity to ‘stand out from the crowd’ and add that

printing; while larger quantities are likely to have a lower

wow factor. Here is a brief guide to the world of print which will

unit cost with offset printing.

hopefully help demystify the subject and ensure you are able to

Marcus Davitt is a director of Blue Horizons. He has a strong and diverse background in marketing and advertising and worked for

make informed decisions and really make an impact with your

Printing medium.

marketing, offline as well as on!

Do you need or want a special paper, finish or unusual printing surface, or unique size? The options are increasing continually for

What is the difference between offset lithography (litho) and digital print?

digital, but offset printing still offers the most flexibility.

Offset lithography is the most common high volume commercial

one of the largest advertising

Colour

printing technology. In offset printing, the desired print image is

Digital presses use four-colour process printing. If you need only

agencies in the South for several

burned onto a plate and is then transferred (or offset) from the

black ink or one or two ink colours, offset printing may offer a

years, handling work for a

plate to a rubber blanket, and then to the printing surface. The

more cost-effective solution. If you need four colour printing, digital

number of major international

lithographic process is based on the repulsion of oil and water.

may offer advantages in lower up-front costs.

brands. He has also worked in

The image to be printed gets ink from ink rollers, while the non-

If you’re planning to print using the Pantone® Matching System,

the recruitment, housing, dental

printing area attracts a film of water, keeping the non printing

offset printing will give you the best match, since it uses actual

and medical sectors.

areas ink-free.

Pantone® ink. Digital printing simulates the colour using a four-

Advantages of litho:

colour matching process, so some digital printers may offer less

accurate colour matching on projects.

Better at printing on a variety of print surfaces / paper weights

High image quality

Turnaround

Quality and continued effectiveness on larger quantity runs

Accurate colour reproduction

More wide use of Pantone® colour system

If you need it fast, digital usually offers quicker delivery.

Proofing Digital offers accurate proofs since you see an actual sample of

The digital printing process is fairly simple in comparison to litho.

the printed piece.

Artwork is sent to the digital press and is printed much like your

Accurate colour proofing for offset printing can be expensive (however digital proofs are usually provided to

standard office/home laser printer - but with a far superior quality.

gauge accuracy).

Advantages of digital:

44

cosmeticnewsuk.com

Shorter turnaround – no print plates needed

Customisation

On demand printing

Cheaper low volume printing

way to customise marketing materials, direct mail pieces,

Variable data printing

letters, etc.

Without question, digital printing offers the most affordable

Use this checklist to help decide: Quantity

Colour – CMYK, Pantone®, RGB? What’s the difference and which to use

Offset printing has a front-end cost load

CMYK stands for Cyan-Magenta-Yellow-Black and refers to four

Short runs may have a high unit cost

colour printing – the most widely used method for printing.


Colour – CMYK, Pantone®, RGB? What’s the difference and which to use

You might want to try out some special types of foil blocking like a

CMYK stands for Cyan-Magenta-Yellow-Black and refers to four colour

colours in a design. A mirror foil can add a nice shine in contrast to dark

holographic foil or a mirror foil, which can help emphasise surrounding

printing – the most widely used method for printing.

imagery.

The Pantone® matching system is the definitive international reference

Overprinting

for selecting, specifying, matching and controlling ink colours. Pantone

This is the process of printing one colour on top of another, creating an

colours are described by their allocated number (typically referred to as,

interesting visual effect by having the colours interfere with one another.

for example, ‘PMS 130’). PMS colours are almost always used in branding

Lamination

and have even found their way into government legislation (to describe the

A thin film applied to one or both sides of a printed stock. Lamination can be

colours of flags). The Pantone® formula guide, a three-guide set consisting of 1,114 spot solid Pantone® Colours on coated, uncoated and matte stock, shows corresponding printing ink formulas for each colour. There is also a digitallycreated Pantone® Process Colour System® which provides a comprehensive palette of more than 3,000 colours achievable in four-colour (CMYK) process printing. The Pantone® solid to process guide compares a solid Pantone® Colour to the closest possible match in CMYK four-colour process that can be achieved. Other Pantone® Colour Reference Guides for the graphic arts include metallics, pastels, tints, duotones, film and foil.

Pantone® Advantages:

“Investing in the skills and expertise of a professional agency will ensure that your printed marketing materials will emulate your brand”

In cases where a design can be reproduced using less than three colours, it is much more cost effective to use one or two Pantone® colours, rather than

gloss, matte or lustre and has several benefits. It helps increase sheet stability

CMYK printing. Using Pantone® inks also creates better colour consistency

or rigidity, protect work from moisture and handling, and can make work

between the design and the final printed piece than CMYK colours can offer.

waterproof and tear-proof.

Folds Pantone® Disadvantages:

You don’t always have to do the typical valley fold (folding your paper in

Photos printed with Pantone® inks are limited to one to four colours with

half). Different folding methods can help present your work in creative and

some degree of shading. Pantone® inks are nearly impossible to replicate

visually interesting ways. Think about what would be appropriate for your

on CMYK digital output devices. If a designer designates CMYK colour

project and your budget.

values, the printer has a much better chance of achieving a better colour

French Folding – In a French fold, the paper is printed on one side

match.

and then it is folded horizontally and vertically to create a four-sided, uncut document or section.

RGB refers to Red Green and Blue –, TV’s, mobiles and

Throw outs – A folding and scoring technique that is bound into a

computer monitors all emit colour in RGB. Without getting caught up in the

publication to give extra space to showcase a particular image or visual

science of colour and light, all you really need to be aware of is usually,

element. Usually found in magazines.

RGB artwork files (i.e. those from your website) will need to be converted to

Gatefold – When a sheet is folded into four panels and placed into a

CMYK for print!

publication so that the left and right panels fold parallel and inward to the spine without overlapping. This kind of fold is useful if the spread has a large

Print finishes -how to make your printed materials extra special Varnishes Matte – typically used with text–heavy pages to diffuse light and increase

key image or a lot of content to be displayed.

readability. Gives a non­glossy, smooth finish to the printed pages.

Roll Fold – A roll fold is composed of a series of parallel valley folds,

Gloss – a gloss varnish reflects back light and is frequently used to

which are further folded into one another.

Accordion / Concertina Fold – This fold comprises two or more parallel folds that go in opposite directions and open out. This folding method enables many pages to be collapsed into a smaller size publication.

enhance the appearance of photographs or other graphic elements.

Satin/silk – this varnish is a middle option between gloss and matte

Perforation

varnishes. It provides some highlight, but is not as flat as a matte varnish.

Perforation (or perf cutting) is a process that creates a cut-out area in a substrate, which weakens it for detaching.

Spot UV Ultraviolet varnishing is a way to really make colours pop in a design. It is

Die cutting

a clear liquid that is cured instantly with ultraviolet light. This treatment can

A metal tool which punches a hole or edge into a piece of artwork to create

make colours appear more vibrant when used as a spot covering to highlight

an irregular shape in the substrate, usually card or paper. Like a pie cutter

specific areas of a design and also gives off a different texture.

in application, a die cutter is often used to create packaging from a regular

Embossing and Debossing

sheet, but can also be used in brochure design to create an unusual cover or

An emboss or deboss is a type of treatment where a die is used as a stamp

to knockout a hole for an image to show through.

that impresses a part of a design into a substrate to enhance that particular part in the design. This creates a three-dimensional, decorative and textural

The cutter is a series of blades set in a block to create a single unbroken

element to a design.

but irregular edge and can be combined with scoring to create folds in the

An emboss is a raised impression while a deboss is a recessed impression.

paper. These have a significant make ready cost and are usually only used

Embossing and debossing can be done with ink, foil or without either which

when a budget permits.

is called a blind emboss/deboss. Embossing and debossing typically work better on thicker paper-weights than light ones and on larger areas.

If a job is worth doing – it’s worth doing properly!

Foil Blocking

Graphic design and print are highly specialised areas and investing in the

Foil blocking is a process where a coloured foil is pressed onto a printed

skills and expertise of a professional graphic designer/marketing agency

piece with a heated die. This separates the foil from its backing and allows

will ensure that your printed marketing materials will emulate your brand,

it to adhere to the printed material. A foil block can also be known as a foil

portray a professional image and above-all, work hard to increase your

stamp, heat stamp, hot stamp, block print and foil emboss.

sales and ultimately those profit margins.

a_dummies-guide_to_print.indd 1

12/1/11 15:08:55


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19/1/11 11:19:23


Best Practice | Finance

VATs the way

to do it

Anna Saprykina on surviving the rise in VAT January is generally one of the quietest months for many businesses – the Christmas and New Year fuss is over and many people are away or recovering from the festivities. This year however has started with a new concern for most businesses: the rise in the VAT rate from 17.5% to 20% – the highest it has ever been in the UK. This marks the third change in VAT in two years, so for many businesses this is familiar territory, but the rules governing a change of rate still cause confusion. Where does it come from?

How big is the impact?

V

– who initiated the concept of VAT, which came into

terms like that. Even still, there’s always the possibility

effect on April 10, 1954. VAT was initially introduced for

that businesses are trending their prices up by a few

owner herself and is a founder of London-based

large businesses of France, and then employed for all

percentage points to cover their expenses, and that

Body Silk Consulting, providing business training

business sectors of the country.

could lead to an even higher increase.

Value added tax, also known as goods and services tax,

Now, whether or not you decide to absorb the increase

proves to be beneficial for the government. Through

as a negative or mark up your prices to adjust well,

implementation of this tax system, government can

that’s solely up to you as a business owner. On one

raise revenues invisibly, where the tax is not shown on

hand, adjusting slightly so you don’t lose out over time

the bill paid by the buyer. VAT is different from sales tax

might be a smart move. Then again, if your competitors

in various aspects. While sales tax is to be paid on the

aren’t adjusting and are offering lower prices, you could

total value of the goods and services, VAT is levied on

find that business is going elsewhere.

every exchange of the product, so that consumers do

Like most things in business, you will have to do a little

not have to carry the total cost of tax. However, VAT is

bit of research here and find out how the market is

generally not applied on export goods to avoid double

trending. Depending on what you’re selling, speaking in

taxation on the final product. But if VAT is charged on

practical terms, absorbing the rise at your end wouldn’t

export goods, the tax amount is usually refunded to the

be the end of the world so long as you’re still selling your

tax payer. In other words, VAT is an indirect tax, which

treatments and products at a decent rate.

Anna Saprykina, has a Diploma in Financial Management from ACCA and is the author of the business workshops ‘From Beautician to Entrepreneur’. After many years of experience in analysing businesses and industries during her career in finance, Anna became a business

alue added tax or VAT was first introduced in France by French economist Maurice Laure – the joint director of the French tax authority

R

ealistically, a 20% increase means that products once costing £117.50 will now cost £120. So, it is not that much of a rise when you put it in

for the young entrepreneurs with a focus on the beauty and aesthetic industry.

is imposed on goods and services at each stage of production, starting from raw materials to final product.

Of course, some businesses are VAT registered and

VAT is levied on the value additions at different stages

some aren’t. Some will have no option but to absorb

of production. VAT is widely applied in the European

more than others. Unregistered companies might be

countries, including the UK.

able to find a small advantage by raising the rates for

cosmeticnewsuk.com

47


Best Practice | Finance

their treatments and products slightly. Again, though, it depends on

will be likely to go up as many suppliers have increased their prices

the competition and the overall flow of the market. In the beauty

already. The most important aspect of the VAT rise is that your business

industry, the trend these days is that the beauty treatments will remain

– especially your website and the price list – needs to be able to

at the same price range given the competition and the current ability

adjust the prices on time. Most salons are going to have some type

of the clients to spend money (again – depends on the location,

of software system that does this for them through the e-payment

clientele, whether the business has been around for a long time or

system they are using. Even still, you should check to make sure the

not, and so on), but the prices for the cosmetic products and supplies

rates are adjusted.

How to minimise the negative effect of this VAT rise for your clinic/salon? Here’s some helpful information from the last VAT changes, to help your salon adjust your cash strategy.

Applying the new VAT rate

Many suppliers were considering slowly putting up prices

There are special rules for deposits received before January

towards the end of 2010, so there was not such a noticeable

4, for ‘continuous supplies’ and invoices covering one year.

difference when the VAT rate rose. You may have noticed that

Don’t get caught out by anti-forestalling legislation, which is in

for larger items (e.g. a piece of equipment, such as an IPL or

place to prevent prolonged use of the 17.5% rate in respect of

laser), the New Year has seen offers such as ‘we are holding

goods/services to be supplied on or after January 4 2011.

the VAT rate down’ to encourage people to buy in the postNew Years sales.

Assuming the goods or services in question do not fall foul applied for sales of goods or services that span the VAT rate

What are the implications for the admin and book keeping?

change:

Salon owners need to understand the rules while issuing and

of the anti-forestalling legislation, the following rules can be

receiving invoices. For invoices received, if the VAT rate shown

Rules for VAT on services

on them is wrong, correct invoices should be requested from

For services started before January 4, but finished after this

suppliers. Only the VAT amount shown on an invoice can be

date the work up to January 3 can be invoiced at the 17.5%

reclaimed, even if the rate shown is wrong.

VAT rate. The work completed on or after January 4 should be invoiced at 20%. HMRC may require a business to demonstrate

For invoices issued, businesses still need to declare the right

that the apportionment of services between the VAT rates is

amount of VAT on VAT returns, even if invoices have shown the

fair.

incorrect VAT amount - so, if an invoice is issued for 17.5% VAT

Services where the work is completed before January 3 but

but 20% is due, the business will have to pay over 20% to HMRC

invoiced on or after January 4 can be billed at the 17.5% rate.

and try to recover the additional 2.5% VAT from the customer. It

HMRC may require evidence that the work was completed

is essential that the invoices show the correct amount of VAT, in

prior to January 4

order to maximise the VAT to be recovered.

If the services are to be completed on or after January 4, but a can reflect the 17.5% VAT rate - but make sure you check that

What can you do to minimise the impact?

this is not caught by the anti-forestalling rules.

If businesses can recover VAT in full, then depending on the

VAT invoice is issued for the work prior to January 4, the invoice

value of their quarterly purchases, they may actually need

Rules for VAT on goods

to do nothing other than be aware of the new rules. For

Where goods are delivered before January 4 2011 but

businesses that cannot recover VAT in full, or those trying to

invoiced and/or paid for on or after this date, the supplier can

mitigate cashflow costs, they should seek advice and take

choose to use the 17.5% VAT rate. This is not compulsory, and

full advantage of the special provisions allowed during a

the 20% rate can be used at the time of invoicing.

rate change that enable the 17.5% VAT rate to be used after

Where goods are invoiced or paid for before January 4 2011,

January 3 2011. If large purchases are expected in the run up

but delivered on or after this date, the supplier can chose to

to the rate change, consideration should be given to asking

use the 17.5% rate.

for invoices early (subject to rules relating to tax points and

Where goods are invoiced before January 4 2011 but

anti-forestalling provisions).

delivered and paid for on or after January 4 2011, the supplier

48

can chose to apply the 17.5% rate to the invoice.

It is worthwhile checking out the HMRC website about any

Should businesses absorb the rise or pass it on to customers?

updates about the recent VAT rate increase. Overall, the

The general view in the marketplace is that this VAT rate rise will

increase is relatively small and should not impact your business

have to be passed on to consumers. Margins are already tight,

that much. For start-ups, simply be aware that the rates have

and it will be hard for them to absorb any additional costs.

risen and act accordingly.

cosmeticnewsuk.com




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We round up upcoming events, training courses and meetings

www.professionalbeauty.co.uk 27 Dermal Fillers in Facial Aesthetics: New Users to Hyaluronic Acid Fillers, Birmingham, www.innomedtraining.co.uk 28 GMT TEC and Sally Durrant, Nutrition and the Skin, Birmingham, www.sallydurant.com 28 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Botulinum Toxin – Beginners, www.drbobkhanna.com 28 February Easy Peel (Skin Tech) Training, www.euromedicalsystems.co.uk 28 LCS Academy Practical Guide to Contraindications, www.lcsacademy.co.uk

14 Tattoo and Pigmentation Removal, Lynton Clinic, Cheadle, info@lynton.co.uk 14 Dermal Filler training workshop, www.euromedicalsystems.co.uk 15 Medik8 Training, Cheshire, www.SkinBrands.co.uk 16 SkinMedica Training, Cheshire, www.SkinBrands.co.uk 16-17 Sterex Advanced Cosmetic Procedure Course (ACP), www.sterex.com 18 Dr Brian Franks Training Courses: Advanced Dermal Fillers -

March 2011

Cheeks and Tweaks, North London, jan@drbrianfranks.com

1 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Botulinum Toxin – Advanced,

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19 Botulinum Toxin in Facial Aesthetics: New Users, Manchester,

1-2 SkinCeuticals Training, London, www.SkinBrands.co.uk

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2 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Beginners Dermal Filler,

20 Dermal Fillers in Facial Aesthetics: New Users to Hyaluronic Acid

www.drbobkhanna.com

Fillers, Manchester, www.innomedtraining.co.uk

2 Botox Training, Manchester, www.medicsdirect.com

21 GMT TEC and Sally Durrant, The Physiology and Management of

2 LCS Academy Core of Knowledge, www.lcsacademy.co.uk

the Skin Ageing Process, Birmingham, www.sallydurant.com

3 LCS Academy CQC Compliance Workshop,

21-23 LCS Academy BTEC Medical Laser/IPL Qualification: Pt 1,

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www.lcsacademy.co.uk

3 Dermal Fillers Training, Manchester, www.medicsdirect.com

22 GMT TEC and Sally Durrant, The Definitive Guide to Acne Vulgaris,

5 Advanced Botox and Dermal Fillers Training, Birmingham,

Birmingham, www.sallydurant.com

www.medicsdirect.com

23 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Botulinum Toxin - Beginners,

5 Advanced Botulinum Toxin: Lower Face, Neck, Under-Arm

www.drbobkhanna.com

Hyperhidrosis, London, www.innomedtraining.co.uk

24 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Botulinum Toxin - Advanced,

5-6 Body Silk Consulting Intermediate Two-day business course for

www.drbobkhanna.com

beauty and medical start-ups,

24-26 9th Anti-Ageing Medicine World Congress, Grimaldi Forum,

www.bodysilk.co.uk/home/training-courses

Monaco, www.euromedicom.com

6 Advanced Dermal Fillers and Lip Masterclass, London,

25 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Beginners Dermal Filler,

www.innomedtraining.co.uk

www.drbobkhanna.com

7 GMT TEC and Sally Durrant, Advanced Skin Science for the Clinical

25-26 Dr Brian Franks Training Courses: Foundation Level Botulinum

Skin Care Therapist, Birmingham, www.sallydurant.com

Toxin and Dermal Fillers, North London, jan@drbrianfranks.com

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Dermal Filler Training, Buckinghamshire,

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www.cosmeticcourses.co.uk

8 Cosmetic Courses Genuine Dermaroller™ Training,

26 Body Silk Consulting Introductory One-day business course for

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8-9 SkinCeuticals Training, Cheshire, www.SkinBrands.co.uk

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19 British Association of Cosmetic Doctors Spring Conference, Royal

8-9 Medik8 Training, London, www.SkinBrands.co.uk 9 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Advanced Dermal Filler, www.drbobkhanna.com

April 2011 1 Dr Brian Franks Training Courses: Hyperhidrosis and Intermediate

10 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Oral Facial,

Botulinum Toxin, North London, jan@drbrianfranks.com

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2-3 Body Silk Consulting Intermediate Two-Day Business Course for

11 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Peel Course,

Beauty and Medical Start-ups, www.bodysilk.co.uk

www.drbobkhanna.com 12 Body Silk Consulting Introductory One-day business course for beauty and medical start-ups,

4-5 GMT TEC and Sally Durrant, Dermatology for the Skin Care Professional, London, www.sallydurant.com 5-6 SkinCeuticals Training, Cheshire, www.SkinBrands.co.uk

www.bodysilk.co.uk/home/training-courses 12 Cosmetic Courses Foundation Botulinum Toxin and Dermal Filler

9 Botox Training, Birmingham, www.medicsdirect.com

Training, Buckinghamshire, www.cosmeticcourses.co.uk

9-10 Body Silk Consulting Advanced Two-Day Business Course for

12 Advanced Botox and Dermal Fillers Training, Manchester,

Beauty and Medical Start-ups, www.bodysilk.co.uk

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10 Dermal Fillers Training, Birmingham, www.medicsdirect.com

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13 Dermal Fillers Training, London, www.medicsdirect.com

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8145 Cosmetic News:Layout 1 16/09/2010 11:51 Page 1

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Vistabel® (botulinum toxin type A) Abbreviated Prescribing Information Presentation: Botulinum toxin type A (from clostridium botulinum), 50 Allergan Units/vial. Temporary improvement in the appearance of moderate to severe vertical lines between the eyebrows seen at frown, in adults <65 years, when the severity of these lines has an important psychological impact for the patient. Dosage and Administration: See Summary of Product Characteristics for full information. Do not inject into blood vessels. Doses of botulinum toxin are not interchangeable between products. Not recommended for patients <18 or >65 years. Use for one patient treatment only during a single session. Reconstitute vial with 1.25ml of 0.9% preservative free sodium chloride for injection (4U/0.1ml). The recommended injection volume per muscle site is 0.1ml (4U). Five injection sites: 2 in each corrugator muscle and 1 in the procerus muscle: Total dose 20U. Contra-indications: Known hypersensitivity to any constituent. Myasthenia gravis, Eaton Lambert syndrome. Infection at proposed injection sites. Pregnancy or lactation. Warnings/Precautions: Use for one patient treatment only during a single session. Relevant anatomy and changes due to prior surgical procedures must be understood prior to administration. Product contains less than 1mmol sodium (23mg) per dose. Do not exceed recommended dosages and frequency of administration. Epinephrine (adrenaline) or any other anti-anaphylactic measures should be available. Very rare reports of adverse reactions possibly related to spread of toxin distant from site of injection. Therapeutic doses may cause exaggerated muscle weakness. Caution in patients with history of dysphagia and aspiration. Patients or caregivers should seek immediate medical care if swallowing, speech or respiratory disorders arise. Too frequent or excessive dosing can result in risk of antibody formation, which may lead to treatment failure. Caution in the presence of inflammation at the proposed injection site(s) or when excessive muscle weakness or atrophy is present. Caution when used in patients with amyotrophic lateral sclerosis or with peripheral neuromuscular disorders. Effects of administering different botulinum toxin stereotypes simultaneously, or within several months of each other, is unknown and may cause exacerbation of

excessive neuromuscular weakness. Interactions: Theoretically, the effect may be potentiated by aminoglycoside antibiotics or other drugs that interfere with neuromuscular transmission. Adverse Effects: See Summary of Product Characteristics for full information on side effects. Based on controlled clinical trial data, the proportion of patients that would be expected to experience an adverse reaction after treatment is 23.5% (placebo: 19.2%). These adverse reactions may be related to treatment, injection technique or both. In general, reactions occur within the first few days following injection and are transient and of mild to moderate severity. Pain/burning/stinging, oedema and/or bruising may be associated with the injection. Frequency By Indication: Defined as follows: Very Common (≥1/10), Common (≥1/100, <1/10), Uncommon (≥1/1,000, <1/100), Rare (≥1/10,000, <1/1,000), Very Rare (<1/10,000). Infections and infestations. Uncommon: Infection. Psychiatric disorders. Uncommon: Anxiety. Nervous system disorders. Common: Headache. Uncommon: Paresthesia, dizziness. Eye disorders. Common: Eyelid ptosis. Uncommon: Blepharitis, eye pain, visual disturbance. Gastrointestinal disorders. Uncommon: Nausea, oral dryness. Skin and subcutaneous tissue disorders. Common: Erythema, Uncommon: Skin tightness, oedema (face, eyelid, periorbital), photosensitivity reaction, pruritus, dry skin. Musculoskeletal and connective tissue disorders. Common: Localised muscle weakness, Uncommon: Muscle twitching. General disorders and administration site conditions. Common: Face pain, Uncommon: Flu syndrome, asthenia, fever. The following have been reported rarely for glabellar lines and other indications: Rash, urticaria, pruritus, erythema multiforme, psoriasiform eruption, anaphylactic reaction (angiodema, bronchospasm), alopecia, madarosis, tinnitus and hypoacousia. Adverse reactions possibly related to spread of toxin distant from injection site have been reported very rarely (muscle weakness, dysphagia, or aspiration pneumonia which can be fatal). Price: £85.00 per vial. Marketing Authorization Number: PL 05179/0010 Marketing Authorization Holder: Allergan Pharmaceuticals (Ireland) Ltd., Westport, Co. Mayo, Ireland. Legal Category: POM. Date of preparation: December 2008.

Adverse events should be reported. Reporting forms and information can be found at www.yellowcard.gov.uk Adverse events should also be reported to Allergan Ltd. UK_Medinfo@allergan.com or 01628 494026 1

Stotland MA, Kowalski JW, Ray BB, Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, Volume 120, October 2007; 5: 1386-1393. 2 UK launch April 2006. 3 Data on file, Allergan, Inc.; Safety Analysis. UK/0596/2010 and Date of preparation: July 2010


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