the uk’s only free of charge medical aesthetics trade magazine
THE VOICE OF YOUR INDUSTRY www.cosmeticnewsuk.com FEBRUARY 2010
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eDitoR’s LetteR 2009 was a year where the words ‘credit crunch’ and ‘recession’ were on everyone’s lips. With 2010 in full swing, we are now hoping that more positive times are ahead. in view of this, we have asked some of the industry’s key figures to give their views on the highs and lows of 2009 and look forward to what they think this year holds (p24-26). As well as this, business expert Roddy Kemp tells you what to do when coming out of a recession (p45-47). We also look forward to the changes ahead for the industry under the new shared Regulation scheme, with sally Taber from the iHAs writing the first in a series of articles explaining how the scheme will be rolled out across the UK (p20). this month’s special Feature will examine one of the oldest rejuvenation tricks in the book, peeling. We round up some of the best peeling products on the market and look at how this tried and tested treatment has evolved (p32-39). as well as this we report on this year’s international master Course on ageing skin (imCas) meeting in Paris (p16-19) and chat to Cosmeceuticals’ md tracy Parkin (p30-31).
enjoy!
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Hamilton Fraser Insurance Kingmaker House, Station Rd, New Barnet, Herts, EN5 1NZ. Hamilton Fraser Insurance is a trading name of HFIS plc. HFIS plc are authorised & regulated by the FSA.
P r o p e r t y | Te n a n c y D e p o s i t P r o t e c t i o n | A e s t h e t i c & C o s m e t i c P r o f e s s i o n a l L i a b i l i t y
|
business | Home
eDitoR’s choice
contents 6 6 neWs We round up the latest people, product and industry news
1614 neWs sPeciaL: imcas 2010 We report on the international master Course on Ageing skin congress in Paris
2018 ReguLation We bring you the latest on the shared Regulation scheme
2220 cosmetic neWs eXPo Find out what will be going on at our upcoming event
24
While i love the idea of having lots of active ingredients injected directly into my skin to give me a glowing complexion, like many women i would much prefer a no-needle option. This month i had just that in the form of Acthyderm™. Based on the process of mesoporation, this patented procedure allows effective products like hyaluronic acid, phoshatidilcoline, Coenzima Q10 and collagen to be delivered into the tissue with the effectiveness of injection.
VieW on: the YeaR aheaD
acthyderm™ is a Fda approved Class iii medical device. the treatment
With 2010 in full swing we find out what some of the
employs a process called htd- hypodermic transdermal delivery. this is
industry’s key players are looking forward to in the year
an advanced drug delivery strategy, which allows painless therapy for
ahead and what their highs and lows of 2009 were
3022 PeoPLe in PRoFiLe We talk to Cosmeceuticals’ mD Tracy Parkin
2 3226 PeeLs sPeciaL 38
ACTHyDeRm™
a variety of conditions, by eliminating all complications resulting from standard injection treatments. this technique increases the skin permeability, via electrical impulses, creating temporary watery channels. this permits the chosen medications to be delivered sub-dermally to the region of the skin where these materials are most needed, without the use of syringes.
We look at one of the oldest aesthetic treatment
the treatment can be used for the same indications as mesotherpay
techniques, skin peeling, and examine some of the best
including fat reduction on the abdomen, buttocks and thighs, cellulite,
products on the market
stretchmarks and anti-ageing facial rejuvenation.
4034 anti-ageing Dr Patrick Treacy explains the science behind ageing
treatment is quick and totally painless although i did get a slightly strange metallic taste in my mouth! it also has no downtime and left my skin looking refreshed, lifted and glowing.
and looks at the role of anti-ageing medicine the machine is compact and treatment costs are low, making it a quick,
4538 best PRactice Roddy Kemp on what to do when coming out of a
easy and affordable add-on to any aesthetic clinic’s offering.
recession
4843 insuRance eddie Hooker on Professional indemnity insurance
5046 business Focus Hilary Ford on the wonder of websites
5252 comPanY PRoFiLe Boston medical Group
5454 Dates FoR the DiaRY Training course, conference and meeting dates
Register for tickets online at www.cosmeticnewsuk.com
PlatiNum sPoNsor
Charlotte Body Publisher 01268 754 897 charlotte@creativemedialtd.co.uk vicky eldridge editor 01268 754 897 m: 07931 924 322 vicky@creativemedialtd.co.uk emilia Bronze Associate Publisher 01268 754 897 emilia@creativemedialtd.co.uk Peter johnson, Art Director 01268 754 897 peter.johnson@creativemedialtd.co.uk Charlie Crocker Designer 01268 754 897 design@creativemedialtd.co.uk hollie-jane dunwell Account manager 01268 754 897 hollie.jane@creativemedialtd.co.uk shauna Peters Production Assistant 01268 754 897 shauna.peters@creativemedialtd.co.uk
DISCLAIMER The editor and the publishers do not necessarily agree with the views expressed by contributors nor do they accept responsibility for any errors in the transmission of the subject matter in this publication. In all matters the editor’s decision is final.
Reveal
your natural beauty
potential
A unique range of Hyaluronic Acid Dermal Fillers administered by a qualified medical aesthetic practitioner, gentle injections to immediately smooth away your wrinkles for up to 12 months. See results of Juvéderm® ULTRA range at our Before & After gallery www.juvedermultra.co.uk If you need more advice ask a qualified and trained healthcare professional. The Juvéderm® range of products are medical injectable devices distributed by Allergan Ltd.
0459
Jan 2010 UK/0892/2009
APRil16th &17th 2010
News | Round Up
6
intRoDucing PRioRi® Dna taRget skin theRaPY
RestYLane® intRoDuces neW thin WaLL neeDLe
Cosmeceuticals has introduced Priori® Cellular
ease of use and improved
Recovery serum with DNA enzyme Complex. This
treatment satisfaction for
targeted skincare therapy accelerates correction
physician and patient alike. This is because the ultra sharp
and recovery of ageing skin with the power of
lancet point of the new Thin Wall Needle means less trauma at
DNA Repair enzymes. Oxidative stress, the major
the injection site and the unique needle bevel design improves
cause of skin ageing, leads to damage to skin
the ease in which tissue is penetrated. This makes the treatment
cell’s DNA, resulting in premature skin ageing
experience more comfortable for patients.
or even cell death. Formulated with potent DNA
the thin Wall Needle has a larger inner diameter when compared to
repair enzymes, Priori® Cellular Recovery serum
regular needles. this improves the flow of the gel. less extrusion force
with DNA enzyme Complex is clinically proven to
is also needed, making administration of the treatment easier and
help eliminate and reverse DNA damage thereby
more comfortable. the needle has an outside diameter of 29 gauge
helping to effectively diminish the appearance of
and inside diameter equivalent to a regular 27 gauge needle.
fine lines, wrinkles and uneven skin pigmentation for fast visible results.
dr tracy mountford, medical director of the Cosmetic skin Clinic,
our cells contain specialised enzymes that have the ability to excise and repair
is one of the first doctors in the uK to use the thin Wall Needle with
cellular dNa damage caused by dangerous free radicals. recent research has
restylane Perlane™ lidocaine. “having used the new design needle,
shown that our cells experience up to one million such dNa free radical insults every
i never wish to use regular needles again!” she said. “my patients
day. Priori® dNa enzyme Complex utilises three liposome encapsulated dNa repair
are more comfortable and i have noticed less bruising and marking
enzymes from natural botanical and microbial sources to reinforce our cell’s own
which minimises any downtime. i love the ease with which the
natural defense enzymes; more enzymes means quicker and better cellular repair
product flows.”
for a healthier younger looking skin:
Fiona Collins and marie duckett at Fiona and marie aesthetics,
Ultrasomes: derived from bacteria, help repair sun-inflicted dNa damage and
london, agree. “the ease of injection is quite remarkable. there
speed cellular recovery time.
is little resistance when entering the skin and patients are more
Photosomes: harvested from plankton extract, help to excise and repair dNa
comfortable. When using the new needle with the restylane™ vital
lesions caused by exposure to ultraviolet light and free radicals.
injector, fewer needle changes are needed and the improved
Roxisomes: extracted from mustard seed, help to reverse oxidative damage
product flow means the treatment time is much quicker; we have
to both nuclear and mitochondrial dNa. dNa repair enzymes are cell repair
noticed less bruising too.”
mechanisms, providing the cell’s second line of defense to correct damage to dNa
the needle has been developed and is manufactured by terumo
after it has occurred to return dNa to its normal state.
Nv, one of the world’s leading needle manufacturers, specifically
Priori® Cellular recovery serum with dNa enzyme Complex can be integrated into
to meet the demands of aesthetic treatments with restylane®.
any skincare regime and will help accelerate and enhance results.
it will be co-packed with all the restylane® dermal filler product
see this month’s People in Profile (p30-31) for our interview with tracy Parkin, md of
range, excluding restylane subQ™, from early 2010. the new
Cosmeceuticals, for more on this story.
needle will also be available with the restylane vital™ injectors.
Q-med has developed a unique 29G Thin Wall Needle which has been produced exclusively for use with Restylane® products. Benefits of the new design include
MyFaceMyBody reaches For the sky
e-cLinic announces meRge With toP DeVeLoPment team
The MyFaceMyBody show will be making its debut on Sky next
The merge means a strengthened
month. The 30-minute chat show will appear on InformationTV, Sky
technical team and adds new skills
Channel 166 and Freesat.402. The show will be screened 12 times
and expertise. it’s good news for
a month, with the first episode aired in early March. The programme
e-clinic customers and places the
aims to give consumers a better understanding of the benefits and
company in a great position to move
risks associated with different cosmetic procedures, and how to go
forward.
about choosing the right surgeon or clinic.
the merge means a move to bigger
Each episode is designed to be entertaining and engaging as well as
offices in the heart of leeds city centre,
educational, and will see presenter Stephen Handisides undertake challenges
with space for classroom training and
and interviews to prove a point and bust some of the myths about the
workshops.
industry. As well as it’s TV transmissions, the programme will also be
this summer also sees the launch of e-clinic 11, with new features including credit card processing,
available to watch on-demand on consumer website MyFaceMyBody.com.
touch screen options and barcode support. at the same time, a compact version of e-clinic will be
The site launched in February 2009 and already carries more than 2,000
released for those who want a cheaper way to get the benefits of the uK’s best clinic management
pages of independent treatment advice, 200 educational videos and
system.
comprehensive news and events. A pilot episode of the MyFaceMyBody show
e-clinic is the most popular clinic management software for aesthetic and cosmetic clinics. it allows
is already available to watch on the website. Viewers can also use the website
users to book appointments, record clinical data, send texts, store digital photos, create marketing
to quiz experts and engage in discussions during or after the show.
campaigns and run reports.
cosmeticnewsuk.com
e-clinic has announced a merge with top software developers Blue Kite.
News | Round Up
neWs in bRieF
meRZ to acQuiRe bioFoRm meDicaL
STARTER’S ORDERS
merz Pharma Group is to acquire BioForm medical, the manufacturers of Radiesse®. The Board of Directors of BioForm medical and the merz shareholders Council unanimously approved a definitive agreement under which merz will acquire all of the outstanding shares of BioForm medical for Us $5.45 per share. The transaction has a total equity value of approximately Us$253 million based on BioForm medical’s outstanding shares of common stock. the transaction, which is expected to close in the first quarter of 2010, is conditioned on the tender of a majority of the outstanding shares of BioForm medical common stock as well as regulatory approvals and other customary closing conditions. Following completion of the transaction, BioForm medical will become a wholly-owned subsidiary of merz and will be renamed merz aesthetics. With BioForm medical, the new merz aesthetics will be distinguished in the marketplace by its ability to offer dermal fillers based on three distinct technologies: radiesse®, Belotero® and Novabel®. With this broader dermal filler product offering and other innovative aesthetics products under development, including Polidocanol, a sclerotherapy agent, and Bocouture®/Xeomin®, a neurotoxin free of complexing protein, the combined company will be positioned to enable healthcare professionals to achieve excellent patient results and satisfaction. “We are pleased with this transaction, which has been strongly supported by merz shareholders. together with BioForm medical, we will have even greater potential for future growth in our worldwide, fast growing aesthetics and dermatological business”, said dr jochen hückmann, chairman of the merz shareholders Council. “We are delighted to welcome BioForm medical to our company and expect them to be an important part of merz’s continued growth and success.”
DeRmaRoLLeR™ goes FRom stRength to stRength Genuine Dermaroller™ Therapy has firmly established itself as a market-leader in micromedical skin-needling procedures in the last year. The skin regeneration treatment is now available through more than 400 medical practitioners in the UK and that number is increasing daily, according to UK distributor AesthetiCare. The product was launched in the UK in early 2009. Now more than 40 practitioners are signing up to offer the procedure each month, with the training diary booked up months in advance. “the concept of using micro-needling to regenerate collagen production is not a new one”, says roger Bloxham, managing director of aesthetiCare. “there have been pockets of users in america, europe and asia over the last few years often focusing on acne scarring, which have established the efficacy and safety profile of the procedure, but it’s only now that Genuine dermaroller™ is being widely accepted as a mainstream non-surgical cosmetic treatment. the quality of the Genuine dermaroller™ medical devices and the techniques that have been developed by medical practitioners are now delivering fantastic results for lines and wrinkles, photo-damage and pigmentation as well as acne scarring, and these are the primary reasons for the expansion. “Genuine dermaroller™ therapy is only available from trained medical aesthetic practitioners and authorised clinics. it’s gratifying that we’ve had such good feedback but it’s also a reflection of the quality of those practitioners being trained. the demand for Genuine dermaroller™ training is incredibly high, most of the requests we now receive from practitioners are by recommendation and word of mouth – hopefully a reflection of the level of service and support we are providing.”
8
cosmeticnewsuk.com
iane iredale has launched a starter kit aimed at allowing clinics and salons to introduce their clients to the range. The jane iredale Starter Kit, introduced last month, is available in Light, Medium and Medium Dark. The kits are packed with the highest quality and purest ingredients possible and the handy compact contains an Amazing Base, the best selling PurePressed Base, Lip Drink, Lip Colour, a PurePressed Blush, Eyeshadow, Under Eye Concealer, Lip Plumper along with three application brushes. The kit retails at £19.95.
TwIN STUDY IDENTIFIES FACTORS ASSOCIATED wITH SKIN AgEINg Environmental factors that effect skin ageing have been assessed in a study using twins. Kathryn J Martires of Case western Reserve School of Medicine, Cleveland, and colleagues studied 65 pairs of twins attending the 2002 annual Twin Days Festival in Twinsburg, Ohio. Up to 40 per cent of ageing-related changes were due to non-genetic factors such as smoking, being heavier, not using sunscreen and having had skin cancer, according to the report published in Archives of Dermatology. “The Twins Days Festival provides a rare opportunity to study a large number of twin pairs to control for genetic susceptibility. Among the most important results is that a history of skin cancer and photodamage are highly associated in a population that shares genetic commonalities,” the authors conclude. “The relationships found between smoking, weight, sunscreen use, skin cancer and photodamage in these twin pairs may help to motivate the reduction of risky behaviors.”
STUDY SHOwS wOMEN ARE MORE PRONE TO FACIAL wRINKLES THAN MEN Findings from a study published in the Aesthetic Surgery Journal (ASJ) suggest that gender-specific differences in the perioral skin (skin surrounding the mouth) account for more and deeper skin wrinkling in women than in men. “The aim of this study is to obtain new insight into the perception that women wrinkle earlier and more severely than men,” said the study’s lead author, Emma Paes MD, from the Department of Plastic, Reconstructive and Hand Surgery at the University Medical Center in Utrecht, Netherlands. “If we understood the reasons for differences in wrinkling between women and men, then we might be able to develop better strategies for the treatment of perioral wrinkles.” Skin surface replicas of the upper lip region in 10 male and 10 female cadavers (age range 75-93) were used to define the amount and depth of perioral wrinkling. To provide additional data, three full-thickness lip resections were taken from each of 15 male and 15 female fresh cadavers and were investigated in a blinded fashion.
NEw CELLULITE BUSTINg TREATMENT HITS UK SHORES A treatment to tackle cellulite, which has ‘taken American by storm’ has arrived in the UK. Distributed by Demilec, Cellactor cellulite and inch loss therapy tackles the two main causes of cellulite – the hardening of the fibres between the fat cells and the protrusion of fat cells into the the dermis. The procedure takes just one hour to treat the full thigh and buttocks area. It works on the fibrous septae, causing the break-up of the collagen in the area, which releases the skin and produces a smoother surface. The D-Actor hand-piece emits radial pressure waves that activate the skin and connective tissue at high shock frequencies. This reduces cellulite, tones up muscles and improves skin quality. A renowned plastic surgery clinic in Switzerland looked at the effectiveness of Cellactor, testing 120 women. A pressure sensor was used to measure skin elasticity and found that tightening increased by up to 110 per cent. The average inch loss was three inches, with out any changes in diet or exercise and cellulite reduction was more than 50 per cent.
beauty comes from within painless, needle-free anti-aging & body contouring
Introducing Acthyderm the new revolutionary non-surgical facial & body rejuvenation programme for medical professionals & beauticians.
“Microlab brings you the first effective, and worldwide certified, no-Needle mesotherapy system. Acthyderm employs a sophisticated process called Hipodermic Transdermal Delivery.”
• • • • • • • • • • •
multi-application high r.o.i FDA approved easily transportable very affordable high patient satisfaction immediate results no side effects/downtime totally relaxing & pain free comprehensive training transdermal delivery enables the treatment of acute & chronic pain without the use of injections clinician.
For more information & scientific backup visit www.microlabinternational.co.uk
Tel: 01299 272 900 or 0560 164171 www.microlabinternational.co.uk Microlab International UK Ltd, 30 High Street, Cleobury Mortimer, Kidderminster, Worcestershire, DY14 8DQ, United Kingdom
APRil16th &17th 2010
News | Round Up
lorega, to provide a solid foundation for future growth. The
enViRon aPPoints neW skin anaLYst FoR scotLanD
integration into lorega’s long established specialist insurance
Witnessing the benefits of
business will provide Beautysure with the infrastructure and claims
applying topical vitamins and
handling systems required to provide a high level of service to
active ingredients onto the skin
surgeons. in addition, all policies will now be administered by
led former beauty salon owner
lorega’s City of london based team.
Karen mcintyre to a new role with
suRe thing Beautysure, the surgeon purchased insurance product for cosmetic surgery, has been successfully integrated into parent company
environ skin Care, working as the move follows the departure of founder juliet Bentley, who left the
their new skin analyst in scotland.
business in November to explore other opportunities, and the decision to
Karen’s eight-year industry
change the Beautysure business development strategy in order to boost
experience encompasses
sales. the Beautysure policy, a world first, covers medical costs if problems
working in retail and in spas,
occur following cosmetic surgery. the most common complications include
as well as managing her own
capsula contracture, infections, scarring requiring surgery and mrsa.
business. Adding her training
straightforward aesthetic dissatisfaction is however excluded. underwritten
with environ to this foundation
by lloyd’s, the product has been available to surgeons, who are typically
has provided the perfect insight
members of the British association of Plastic, reconstructive and aesthetic
into how to help others increase
surgeons or the British association of aesthetic Plastic surgeons.
retail and treatment sales
lorega Chairman, malcolm harvey said, “We have received fantastic
following effective, one-to-one
support from the cosmetic surgery community since our announcement to
consultations.
completely restructure the Beautysure business. subsequent conversations
“Clients now want to see more physical changes within their skin and
with our introducers have also clearly shown a considerable demand for
using environ, together with simple changes to diet and lifestyle that we
the product. We have taken on board all the points raised and have taken
recommend, delivers that.”
swift action to restructure in order to more accurately meet the needs of
Karen is one of a growing team of skin analysts hosting free events for salons
both their businesses and patients. the future of the Beautysure insurance
nationwide, where potential and existing clients are invited to have various
product is secure. lorega now intends to boost sales with the support of a
aspects of their skin condition studied in detail, using sophisticated visia
new team focused on delivering exceptional service.”
technology.
toPicaL PePtiDe hits the sPots lumixyl is a new topical peptide designed to diminish age spots
and uneven skin tone. the only peptide
and other skin discoloration safely and effectively without irritation.
shown to measurably promote healthy
Distributed by Wigmore medical, the product has been proven to be
skin function, scientific studies have
more effective at improving the skin’s appearance than its competitors.
shown that it reduces tyrosinase, the
developed by dermatological researchers at stanford university in the usa,
enzyme responsible for initiating the
lumixyl topical skin Brightening Crème can be applied to the face, neck
overproduction of melanin, which can
and hands to help diminish age spots, sunspots, melasma, photodamage
cause uneven pigmentation and dark spots. the team at stanford demonstrated that lumixyl reduced the production of melanin by as much as 40 per cent compared to hydroquinone, which reduced reduction by seven per cent at equal concentrations.
Get more from your patients · · · · · · ·
Book appointments and manage rooms Patient database with clinical notes Billing and stock control Send letters, emails and texts Appointment reminders by text or email Store digital photos Marketing and financial reporting
Call 01274 530505 for your free demo CD or email sara@e-clinic.uk.com 10
1-4 page ad feb 09.no 2.indd 1
cosmeticnewsuk.com
23/2/09 09:46:05
APRil16th &17th 2010
News | Round Up
meDicaL innoVations to teach haRVaRD suRgeons anD PRoFessoRs medical innovations will be delivering medical training to Harvard University doctors after brokering a deal stateside. laurence Newman, who founded the company in 1997, was granted 510(k) approval from the Food and Drug Administration in June to distribute and sell Veinwave™ machines – which the company pioneered – after meeting strict criteria and Us standards. The product is attracting mass interest across the states and ivy league’s Harvard is the latest establishment to take it on. veinwave™ was developed by medical innovations as a minimally invasive alternative to laser therapy. it uses thermocoagulation technology to treat skin conditions such as rosacea and spider veins on the face and legs. mr Newman said, “harvard medical school approached us as they were highly interested in veinwave™ and wanted to learn more about the technology. veinwave™ is one of our leading products and has become the gold standard for the treatment of cosmetic vein conditions since its launch seven years ago. We investigated the us market extensively before launch to ensure it would deliver a strong return on investment. our link-up with one of the world’s leading universities is testament to the fact veinwave™ fills a gap in the market worldwide, which other methods have failed to address.” Consultant surgeon, dr Brian Newman, will be delivering training to harvard medical school professors and surgeons this month and the technique will then be practised in the university’s dedicated clinic. dr Newman has trained more than 500 consultant surgeons in the uK, europe, the us, Canada and asia in techniques for cosmetic vein removal and rosacea. dr Newman’s Clinics are based in Greater manchester, london’s harley street and Glasgow. the company works in partnership with london-based sovereign medical health to develop the distribution channels required for success in the us.
consuLting Room ReVeaLs 2009 Website stats leading aesthetic information website The Consulting Room™ has revealed its 2009 website statistics. From January 1 2009 to December 31 2009 just under one million individual sessions were served by www.consultingroom.com, with an average of more than 75,000 people visiting the website each month. “although this does show a slight fall on our 2007 and 2008 visitor statistics, we believe that this could be attributed to the recent global economic downturn and uK recession, which is causing some people to tighten their belts in relation to large cash purchases such as elective cosmetic surgery, especially in light of further difficulties seen in obtaining credit finance for such procedures”, said Consulting room™ editor lorna jackson. “however, more than 320,000 searches were made using our database by people searching for a clinic or practitioner providing a specific treatment, procedure or product in 2009.” the top three non-surgical treatment FaQ pages viewed were laser and iPl hair removal followed by Fractional laser skin resurfacing and Botulinum toxin. dermal Fillers came in fourth with laser tattoo removal climbing an astonishing 32 places from 37th place in 2008 to fifth in 2009. topping the page views by product name were Botox® followed by teosyal®, restylane®, juvederm® ultra and smartlipo®. lorna added, “our 2009 statistics show that yet again treatment information page views were dominated by research into laser and iPl hair removal, with a rise of 24.5 per cent on the total number of views for this page compared to 2008, despite the fall in overall treatment FaQ page views. Botulinum toxin research took a dip in the last year losing its second place spot to fractional laser skin resurfacing, which was up from last year’s third place. this could simply be due to an increased knowledge of this treatment. the biggest riser up the top ten most researched treatment ranking for 2009 was for laser tattoo removal which rose from 37th place in 2008 to fifth place. additionally micropigmentation (semi-permanent make-up) shot up from 25th place on 2008 to 8th in 2009. the biggest faller however was chemical peels, last year’s 7th place holder, down to 14th in 2009.”
12
cosmeticnewsuk.com
neWs in bRieF SCIENTISTS MEASURE PERFECT FACE DIMENSIONS IN STUDY Scientists believe they have worked out the dimensions of the most attractive female face. They say the key to the ideal arrangement of female facial features is the measurements between the eyes, mouth and ears. Applying their results, the Canadian pop singer Shania Twain was rated as having the perfect visage. The study, led by the University of Toronto, appears in the journal Vision Research. The researchers asked students to rate the attractiveness of colour photographs of the same woman’s face, laid out side by side. Using photoshop, the researchers altered the vertical distance between the eyes and mouth, and the horizontal distance between the eyes in each image. The features themselves never changed, just the distance between them, and the woman’s face was only compared to her own. Following a series of experiments, the researchers came up with the most attractive length and width ratios between features.
gOOD NEwS FOR VITILIgO SUFFERS SAYS BSF A pioneering new study could mean the end of suffering for people who live with the skin condition vitiligo. The year long study, funded by the British Skin Foundation and the Vitiligo Society, will look at using a high intensity ultraviolet light source, known as Excimer, to re-pigment patches of skin affected by the skin disease. Led by Professor David gawkrodger at the Royal Hallamshire Hospital, the team of researchers are hoping to determine whether using the particular wavelength of UV light at 380nm (nanometres) can be an effective way of reintroducing the skin’s natural pigment which is missing in skin affected by vitiligo. There are currently few detailed scientific studies about the actual efficacy of using Excimer in vitiligo treatment.
LOOKINg YOUNg FOR YOUR AgE LINKED TO LONgER LIFE People who look young for their age enjoy a longer life than those who look older than their years, a study has found. A team of researchers, led by Professor Kaare Christensen from the University of Southern Denmark, examined whether perceived age is linked with survival and important age related traits, such as physical and mental (cognitive) functioning and a molecular biomarker of ageing (leukocyte telomere length). 1,826 Danish twins aged 70 years and over underwent physical and cognitive tests and had their faces photographed. Three groups of assessors rated the perceived age of the twins from the facial photographs. Death records were then used to track the survival of the twins over a seven year period. Perceived age was significantly associated with survival, even after adjusting for chronological age, sex, and the environment in which each pair of twins grew up.
gET READY FOR THE DENTISTRY SHOw 2010 The Dentistry Show will take place next month at the NEC in Birmingham. The conference and exhibition will be held on March 19 and 20. Dental professionals can gain up to 12 hours of verifiable CPD by attending the event at which more than 160 companies will be exhibiting. You can register for the conference FREE of charge (worth £495) by visiting www.thedentistryshow.co.uk and using the offer code PREREg2010.
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APRil16th &17th 2010
News | Round Up
steRiLsaFe oFFeRs DeFence against sWine FLu sterilsafe™ hand cleanser
forms an invisible protective layer on any surface, be it human hands
demonstrates superior
or a hospital floor. independent laboratory tests have demonstrated
protection against the
its effectiveness in killing the swine flu virus and have also shown that
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it kills viruses for at least 17 hours after application to hard surfaces,
unique as it delivers long
unlike conventional disinfectants which stop working when dry and
lasting anti-microbial
have no residual properties.
protection, compared to
lord Warner, the former government health minister and advisor to
alcohol based products,
manufacturer Byotrol, said, “the scientific evidence proves that sterilsafe™
which stop working as
with Byotrol products mark a step-change in the fight against the swine flu
soon as they dry, research
pandemic. the long-lasting nature of the product, combined with its safety,
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means that sterilsafe™ with Byotrol hygiene products have the potential to
The Carlton Group, sterilsafe™ with Byotrol’s micro-polymer technology
revolutionise the way we deal with swine flu and superbugs.”
neW PRoDuct Launch FRom WeLLness tRaDing
the bReast night’s sLeeP
Wellness Trading has launched a new range of anti-ageing cosmeceuticals. mesoestetic Radiance anti-ageing premium line provides instant immediate results, thanks to its wrinkle decompressing effect, say the manufacturers. The range consists of six premium products to combat the visible signs associated with ageing.
Women who are getting used to larger breasts following a boob job can now aid comfort during sleep thanks to the revolutionary Kush, a cylindrical breast support device made from an extremely lightweight PeT plastic. The device is simply placed comfortably between the breasts when side-sleeping to prevent them sagging, and as it’s slip resistant and contoured, the Kush tends to stay in place throughout sleep and go unnoticed by the wearer.
radiance eyelift treats the delicate skin around the eye, lifting, firming, lightening and regenerating; radiance serum intensive provides intensive cell oxygenation for regenerating ageing skins; radiance soft Pearl day gives skin ‘nutrition’; radiance soft Pearl Night acts as an intensive night repair cream; radiance BX finishing lines helps minimise expression lines and radiance BX finishing lines dmae is an anti-ageing serum designed to be an alternative to botulinum toxin injections.
Women who undergo breast augmentation usually use a support bra in the weeks and months following breast augmentation, but Kush is designed for use following surgery and beyond, as enhanced women face potential new wrinkles forming because of the weight of the new breasts and the eventual effects of gravity – something which may not have proved a problem before if they had small breasts and which a boob job cannot prevent. the Kush was developed in the us by a woman who wanted to combat her own cleavage wrinkles, which had developed over years of side sleeping. it has been
FRom FiLLeRs to Face cReams Teoxanne, the makers of dermal filler Teosyal, have created a range of intensive skincare products under the Teosyal brand. Used by dermatologists and plastic surgeons in more than 86 countries, Teosyal Cosmeceuticals is a 100 per cent hyaluronic acid based skincare line which has been clinically proven to prevent ageing and repair damaged skin. trials have shown that within 10 days of using teosyal Cosmeceuticals restructuring is stimulated and skin is plumped, firmed and moisturised, leaving the complexion noticeably younger and smoother. Within two months wrinkle depth was reduced by 52 per cent whilst wrinkle volume was reduced by 56 per cent. Based on the ground-breaking use of microspheres of hyaluronic acid, teosyal Cosmeceuticals is the first skincare line to be launched by a dermal filler brand. Comprising four innovative products, the range has been expertly formulated to deliver a three-fold effect: in-depth action to lessen the signs of ageing, correct and cover skin imperfections and prepare skin for cosmetic injection.
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used widely in the us since its launch last year, and has been endorsed by top plastic surgeon Peter tucker, who hailed the product as ‘outstanding’ and recommends it to all his breast augmentation or reconstruction patients. the Kush was recently introduced to the uK by midlands-based business woman joanne darbost. she says, “the Kush appealed to me as there is nothing else like it out there to help women with larger breasts – natural or enhanced – to have a more comfortable night’s sleep and also to help prevent the wrinkles that can be caused by the effects of gravity on side-sleeping women who have breasts size c-cup or larger. the design and materials means that, after three or four night’s use, the wearer will not even notice it is in place. it’s perfect for women with larger breasts as well as women who are pregnant or breastfeeding.” the Kush Company was recently approved for participation in the royal College of obstetricians and Gynaecologists you and your Family pregnancy initiative – a Government-backed initiative which will ensure every pregnant woman in the uK from january 2010 will receive an a5 educational publication.
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News Special | IMCAS
FRench fancy
a
COsmeTiC NeWs travels to Paris For the iNterNatioNal master Course oN aGeiNG sKiN (imCas) meetiNG
snowy french capital was the setting for this year’s International Master course on ageing Skin (IMcaS) meeting. Despite the treacherous and icy conditions, practitioners and leading international manufacturers and suppliers flocked to the french capital for the 12th annual congress held at the Palais de congres. the four-day event attracts some of the premiere minds from the fields of cosmetic surgery, dermatology, antiageing and aesthetic medicine from all over the world and was used as the platform for the launch of some new and exciting products including merz aesthetics’ new facial shaper, Novabel®, and the latest addition to allergan’s growing portfolio of dermal fillers, juvéderm® ultra smile. among the speakers were a number of influential members of the medical aesthetics community from the uK including plastic surgeons Chris inglefield, raman malhotra, roberto and mauricio viel and lisa saks, ophthalmologist Naresh joshi, dermatologist stephanie Williams and vein expert mark Whiteley. the course director for the event is French plastic surgeon Benjamin ascher, who will be speaking at this year’s Cosmetic News expo (see pages 22-23). the event started on Friday january 8 with registration and the imCas industry innovation tribune, which included sessions on ‘the Financial environment Consequences’,
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‘New technologies and Challenges’ and ‘Big Players actualities’ featuring allergan, Galderma, sciton, GsK/ stiefel, mentor/j&j, merz and syneron. saturday’s programme included sessions on new trends in cosmeceutics and peels, volumetric injectables, fillers, preventative scarring, botulinum toxin type a and cellulite and body shaping. other topics explored included controversies in liploysis (laser and chemical) and cosmetic management of coloured skin. sunday’s programme started with a series of open debates with experts with topics including: ha breast injection, marketing, laser hair removal and has and long-lasting fillers. other sessions included controversies in body shaping and led, fractional Co2 and rF and regenerative medicine. the final day of the event included sessions on acne and scars, superficial veins, penile augmentation and neck skin tightening. here are a few more of the highlights…
News Special | IMCAS JuVÉDeRm® uLtRa smiLe Launch
Allergan chose imCAs as the platform at which to introduce its latest product to the world: Juvéderm® Ultra smile. designed specifically for lip indications, juvéderm® ultra smile has a unique smooth formulation that gives a natural look and feel that lasts up to a year. as well as providing longer lasting enhancement of the lips, the product provides a more gentle injection experience as it is the first hyaluronic acid dermal filler specifically tailored for the lip area to contain lidocaine. as with all products in the juvéderm® ultra family, the key ingredient in juvéderm® ultra smile is hyaluronic acid. unlike some other dermal
noVabeL® Launch
le meridien etoile Hotel was the setting for the launch of merz Aesthetics’ newest innovation, Novabel®. An innovative new class of ‘facial shaper’, Novabel® is an injectable product developed from biocompatible brown algae. Developed and marketed by merz, it establishes a new class of aesthetic therapy that exerts its effect as a skin shaper rather than a wrinkle filler. at the launch, and throughout the congress, physicians presented data from a clinical study and case studies on the efficacy and safety of the product, which can be used to shape areas of the mid and lower face such as tear troughs, volume deficient areas, including cheeks and chin, as well as larger areas such as the back of the hands. Professor syed haq of the london Wellness Centre and Plastic surgery associates is one of the few uK physicians to have already been working with the product. he said, “Novabel® is a highly evolved product that enables me to take my work beyond filling of lines and wrinkles. With Novabel® i can treat the whole face, even the most sensitive areas like tear troughs. Novabel® allows me to give my patients striking yet natural looking results immediately without any downtime.” the product is formulated using highly purified polysacchardies derived from natural brown algae. the alginate substance is known to be nearly undetectable to the immune system, rendering it compatible for use in the human body.
fillers, which have a granular texture, the unique 3-d hyaluronic acid matrix in juvéderm® ultra smile makes it ultra smooth. the product is administered in small doses by intradermal injection directly into the lips, temporarily improving volume and smoothness, and re-shaping to give a natural fullness and feel. recent studies have demonstrated that 97 per cent of patients agree juvederm® ultra smile gave natural looking lips and 91 per cent of patients are satisfied with the results. the new addition means there are now three different formulations for juvéderm® ultra, providing healthcare professionals with the flexibility to tailor each treatment to the particular needs of the patient.
adapting well-established medical-implantation technology from other therapeutic areas that has been shown to have superior biocompatibility properties, the alginate is sculpted into compact, soft spheres called Geleons™. With a flexible yet stable 3d-polysacchardie structure, Geleons™ allow for customised shaping of patients’ skin. this means physicians are able to shape Novabel® in a way that is appropriate and unique for each patient, ensuring a natural look for individuals of any age. the product can be shaped for up to 30 minutes following injection, allowing practitioners time to achieve the optimum result. the low viscosity of Novabel® combined with the high elasticity of Geleons™ means that the product requires low injection force and can be injected through a very thin 30G½ needle. For the patient the result is minimal discomfort, swelling and bruising as well as minimal tissue damage. in studies and experience programmes many physicians found that Novabel® could be administered without anesthetic. in a Phase ii study conducted among 154 patients at eight sites throughout Germany and France, Novabel® demonstrated significant efficacy in improving the appearance of nasolabial folds. 50 per cent of the study participants were being treated for wrinkles that, at baseline, had been rated as severe. after 12 months of treatment, results of Novabel® therapy were still noticeable. Furthermore, 18 months after treatment, independent investigators who rated before and after photographs, reported noticeable differences at and up to the 18-month time point. dr martin Zugel, chairman of the management board at merz said, “Novabel® is truly breakthrough technology with maximum flexibility which gives doctors a powerful and advanced tool for a holistic treatment approach. With its natural looking results that are both instant and long-lasting, Novabel® has the potential to change the practice of aesthetic medicine.”
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News Special | IMCAS gaLDeRma PRess bRieFing since storming into the UK aesthetics market with its new cosmetically licensed botulinum toxin type A, Azzalure®, in April last year, Galderma has had a busy but productive nine months. in a bid to highlight its success and plans for the future, the company invited a select group of european medical press, including Cosmetic News, as its guests to the imCAs meeting. the company put on a packed programme of events starting with lunch and a press briefing at Paris’ luxurious Westin hotel on Friday january 8. entitled ‘the Botulinum toxin revolution: Changing the Face of aesthetics’, the briefing kicked off with a welcome by janusz Czernielewski, Galderma’s medical and marketing vice president. this was followed by a presentation by French doctor Bernard Poulain, who explained the science behind botulinum toxin type a. dr hugo Kitchen then presented the uK experience with the new toxin while dr tanja Fischer gave the German perspective under the heading ‘Now and then: Perceptions and misconceptions on BoNt-a and evolution of Patients’ Needs’.
observations were also confirmed by dr Fischer in her presentation. dr viel further stressed the importance of following the Galderma specific protocols for treatment to enhance results. as part of the international Board of Botulinum toxin-a (iBBa) he was one of six leading practitioners from across europe who pooled together their expertise to develop the guidelines which include: dosing, recommended injection points, depth of injections and injection techniques, patient selection, how to assess a patient and patient consultation as well as anatomy.
the briefing concluded with a presentation by dr maurizio viel on ‘New approaches using BoNt-a’ and an informative and lively Q&a session where the press had a chance to question the experts on what they had just heard. the key messages from the briefing were Galderma’s dedication to education and training. dr Kitchen praised the way in which the company’s training made even experienced practitioners like himself re-visit their anatomy and how the protocols and training he underwent had meant he was now getting better and more consistent results with azzalure® than with other botulinum toxins he had used. he said, “until april last year i thought i knew it all but this has been a learning curve. the last time i studied applied anatomy was at medical school but the Galderma training gave me an opportunity to go back to bascis.”
in the evening the group was treated to dinner at the plush Fouquet’s restaurant on the Champs-elysées (see on the scene p19). on the second day the press was invited to attend the Galderma symposium entitled ‘From Bench to Practice: a First year account of the latest european BoNt-a’ at the Palais de Congres. this in-depth two-hour session further explored the topics touched on the previous day. eminent French plastic surgeon and imCas course director Benjamin ascher started the proceedings with an introduction on ‘the Changing Face of aesthetics’. he was followed by dr Poulin who once again explained the science behind the product in a lecture entitled ‘BoNt-a mode of action revealed’. ‘an in-depth look at the Clinical Profile of azzalure® ’ was then given by Berthold rzany, head of division of evidence Based medicine, Clinic of dermatology, venereology and allergology at the university of Berlin before the first Q&a session.
dr Kitchen also presented the results of a small study he had done among his azzalure® patients. he said that by following the Galderma specific protocols there was an absense of the common adverse effects associated with botulinum toxin injections and an increase in patient satisfaction. his study also showed that patients were seeing a result in as little as 24 hours and no longer than 72 hours, with results lasting for an average of five months. these
the second part of the symposium started with combined presentations from dr Kitchen and dr Fischer as well as dr Philippe Kestemont on ‘What azzalure® means for Physicians’ Practice: hands on experience in France, Germany and the uK’. dr viel then took to the podium again to present ‘a Consensus on treatment Guidelines for the upper Face’. the symposium closed with a live demo and final Q&a session led by dr ascher.
aLma LaseRs Launch accent® uLtRa Alma lasers used the imCAs meeting to officially introduce its latest advance, the Accent® Ultra. Distributed in the UK by ABC lasers,
for body contouring of the abdomen, thighs and flanks, arms and back.
the Accent® Ultra is the world’s first and only non-invasive selective Resonance Ultrasound lipolysis and radiofrequency combination device for or body contouring and the treatment of aesthetic/medical skin conditions such as adiposis, cellulite and skin laxity.
the system was first introduced into the uK in december 2009 and is currently in four prime clinics across the country. the body reshaping workstation combines two state-of-the-art technologies – ultrasound and radiofrequency. the treatment penetrates through the epidermis and dermis to the subcutaneous fat, for effective treatment. split into two modules; the ultra™ module provides ultrasound energy for treating cellulite and reducing fat whilst the uniForm™ module provides radiofrequency energy and lymphatic drainage for body reshaping and tightening skin. the ultra module combines two advanced ultrasound technologies to offer the ‘gold standard’ of body reshaping. ‘Cold mode’ shear waves deform the fat cell membrane integrity to induce a gradual and natural elimination of the cell. the surrounding non-fat cells tissue remains intact. the ‘hot mode’ compression waves preheat the target fat tissue enhancing the effectiveness of the shear waves. the uniForm™ module combines alma lasers’ core rF uniPolar™ technology in parallel with mechanical lymphatic drainage technology for non-invasive cellulite treatment and skin tightening. the combination of both modules during the same session offers an optimal damage to the fat cells for safe and long-lasting treatment, with no damage to nerves, vessels or connective tissue. the accent® ultra has been scientifically studied and clinically demonstrated
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it also excels in facial applications for skin tightening, eye-lid lift, reduction of bags under the eyes, and indicated for chins and saggy jaw-lines.
on the sCeNe imCAs sPeCiAl
Cosmetic News editor Vicky Eldridge with Allergan’s consumer marketing director Richard Glover and head of communications Janet Kettels at Hotel Costes, Paris
‘Knife Coach’ Wendy Lewis and Professor Syed Haq at the launch of Novabel, Merz Aesthetics’ new and innovative facial shaper
Cosmetic News spent a packed three days in Paris for the international master Course on Ageing skin (imCAs) meeting. Here is what we got up to…
Cosmetic News publisher Charlotte Body with Allergan’s marketing director for Europe, Africa and the Middle East, Jen Yanes-Brochen at Hotel Costes, Paris
Cosmetic News’ publisher Charlotte Body, editor Vicky Eldridge and associate publisher Emilia Bronze with Julian Popple from Galderma at the Galderma press dinner at the plush Fouquet’s restaurant on the Champs-Elysées
A snow-covered Paris was the setting for this year’s International Master Course on Ageing Skin (IMCAS) meeting.
Siobhan Wastie (left) and Cerys Evans (second from right) from Signature Comms with Cosmetic News publisher Charlotte Body (second from left) and associate publisher Emilia Bronze (right)
Stephen Ritchie and Charlotte Body
The Galderma press dinner at the plush Fouquet’s restaurant on the Champs-Elysées
Julian Popple from Galderma with Katherine Griffiths and Ruth Kerrison
Regulation | IHAS Shared Regulation
CRACKiNG NG DoWn sally Taber outlines the independent healthcare advisory services’ plans for the shared regulation scheme for Providers of Cosmetic injectables
BACKGROUND The independent Healthcare Advisory services (iHAs) represents the interests of the independent healthcare sector and provides practical information and guidance regarding regulation and policy. Previously the iHAs wrote the respected document Good medical Practice for Cosmetic surgery/Treatments to compliment the General medical Council’s (GmC) Good medical Practice. so when the Government proposed a self-regulation model for cosmetic injectable treatments the iHAs was the right organisation to take the lead. Cosmetic treatments are defined as follows: ‘Cosmetic treatments comprise non-surgical, non-incisional (although in some cases piercing of the skin may be involved) procedures that revise or change appearance; colour, texture or structure of bodily features to achieve what patients perceive to be more desirable or medically acceptable.’ With the support of the Better regulation executive we engaged the key figures across the industry – from regulatory bodies to beauty industry representatives to consumer groups. support was established from the professional regulators namely the GmC, GdC and the NmC. the health and Beauty industry association (habia) said in the beginning: “habia supports the moves by the ihas to establish such standards and systems and will work with ihas to provide guidance and clarify the regulations to protect clients, therapists and business owners alike”. our key objectives were and continue to be: •To protect patients by establishing an accepted set of good practice standards for non-surgical injectable cosmetic treatments •To ensure that training courses are producing safe competent practitioners the first steps involved the creation of professional standards for the use of botulinum toxin and dermal fillers for cosmetic treatments, for organisations wishing to register with the scheme and for training courses. By the end of january 2010 there will be a registration scheme for a quality mark for those providers who can achieve the standards and have been through a training course that meets the principles established. it will be enforced by an independent inspectorate and a risk based inspection regime that takes account of evidence of good or bad practice before inspections, as well as random sampling. Financed by registration fees users will trust the quality mark and look for it wherever they go for cosmetic treatments. the scheme has also received some dh funding which is currently being matched by sector funding. a high profile launch is currently being planned with the support of mike o’Brien mP the minister of health.
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the standards for Cosmetic injectables has just finished its second consultation and the final version will shortly be on the ihas website. if you would like to have a further update as ihas progresses towards the launch then please e-mail: sallytaber@independenthealthcare.org.uk.
the web-based system will consist of: 1. a registration system 2. a scheme website 3. an inspection system 4. a process for responding to complaints
the standards were reviewed to ensure that the hyperlinks were all up to date. updates were received from the General medical Council in particular. since the original standards were produced the GmC has updated its prescribing guidance to discourage the use of remote Prescribing as has the Nursing and midwifery Council. Further hyperlinks have been included by the mhra and the advertising standards authority.
requests to be included in the scheme have been received from: •Beauty therapists •Dental hygienists/therapists •Health profession council registrants namely physiotherapists •Radiographers •Pharmacists •Podiatrists •Vets
FROm selF TO sHAReD ReGUlATiON
the requests were considered but it has been agreed by the shared regulation Working Group, which has representatives from the harley medical Group, transform, sk:n, mapperley Park Clinic, renew medica, the Body Clinic, the British association of Cosmetic doctors and the royal College of Nursing that the Quality mark should only currently be applicable to appropriately trained doctors, dentists and registered adult Nurses. the standards will be reviewed at the end of 2010.
the scheme is now called shared regulation because of the range of primary legislation and regulatory provisions providing indirect regulation through the: •health and safety at Work act 1974 section 3 •medicines act 1973 •Professional ‘fitness-to-practice’ controls namely the GmC, GdC and the NmC.
THe 3RD PARTy ReGisTRATiON AND iNsPeCTiON sCHeme ChKs is providing the third party registration and inspection scheme and is currently designing the web-based scheme for registration. Providers of cosmetic injectable treatments will be provided with the details of this at the beginning of the year. those appropriate to achieve the Quality mark are appropriately trained doctors, dentists and registered adult nurses.
WHO CAN Be ReGisTeReD By CHKs?
CONTACT sally Taber, director of the independent healthcare advisory services independent healthcare advisory services, Centre Point, 103 New oxford street, london, WC1a 1du T: 020 7379 7721 | m: 07885 740 500 e: sallytaber@independenthealthcare.org.uk W: www.independenthealthcare.org.uk
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sHOW a
time
s we count down to the inaugural Cosmetic News expo, we give you the latest on what will be happening at the uK’s first free of charge trade show and educational meeting for the aesthetics industry The Cosmetic News expo is shaping up to be an unmissable event, giving you the opportunity to network, exchange information with your peers and find out about the latest technologies and products on the market. Taking place at the Business Design Centre in islington, london on April 16 and 17, the Cosmetic News expo aims to bring together more aesthetic practitioners under one roof than any other event in the UK. the only free of charge trade show and educational meeting in the uK specifically designed for the aesthetics market, the philosophy behind the Cosmetic News expo comes from Body media’s extensive experience in running shows for other niche markets. We believe that education should be available to everyone, no matter what their budget, so we have designed an event that allows you to gather knowledge about the latest treatments and developments at the same time as attending hands on workshops and lectures, for free. educational workshops will be held throughout the two-day event with industry leading practitioners, manufacturers and suppliers educating you on how to improve your business and get the most out of your clinic by offering the best treatments and products. the event will be sponsored by manufactures and suppliers who are also dedicated to offering continued education and training to professionals working within this exciting and expanding sector. Pharmaceutical giant Galderma
has already signed up as the events Platinum sponsor and more than 50 other specialist companies from within the industry will be taking part in the event. our exhibitors range from distributors of dermal fillers, botulinum toxins, skincare, chemical peels and lasers and iPl to industry associations and business solutions companies. including: ABC lasers AesthetiCare Aesthetic Recruitment ARC Recruitment Boston medical Group ltd Candela Cosmetic Courses Cynosure e Clinic euromedical systems ltd Galderma (Platinum sponsor)
Hamilton Fraser lumenis lynton lasers my Cells Needle Concept Polaris lasers skinov 8 solta sound surgical Wellness Trading Zanco models
Whether you are a cosmetic doctor, aesthetic nurse, dermatologist, plastic surgeon, cosmetic dentist, aesthetician or practice manager there is something for you at the Cosmetic News expo 2010. the event is designed for industry professionals only and is not open to the public. delegates/visitors will be asked to register in advance so they can be given appropriately colored badges to show what their profession is. Workshops and lectures featuring prescription only medicines will only be open to suitably trained medical practitioners.
Need advice on any aspect of running your business? Then book an appointment with one of our experts at our Drop-in Business Clinic, run by the team from The Consulting Room™. Whether you want to find out about how to promote your business through marketing or PR, are confused about insurance or need legal advice, we will be bringing together some of the industry’s leading experts to give you one-on-one advice for free. For more information contact our events team on 01268 754 897.
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cosmeticnewsuk.com
Workshop programme Educational workshops will be running throughout the two-day event covering everything from business skills and how to build a successful practice to the latest techniques and treatments with lectures from
both UK and international speakers. As well as this there are also workshop rooms where hands-on training and masterclasses will take place. The event will also be CPD accredited. The conference auditorium at the Business Design Centre has the capacity for 450
people so make sure you book your place in advance. Keep an eye on our website www. cosmeticnewsuk.com as well as future issues of Cosmetic News for updates on speakers and full programme details. You can also register for tickets online.
FRIDAY APRIL 16
SATURDAY APRIL 17
MAIN AUDITORIUM – BOTULINUM TOXIN
MAIN AUDITORIUM – BODY CONTOURING
Undoubtedly the most popular non-surgical procedure, this exclusive botulinum toxin session will include lectures by renowned US physician Dr Benjamin Ascher and leading UK practitioner Dr Bob Khanna. Looking at how the toxins market has changed with the emergence of new products and examining advanced treatments. This is one workshop not to be missed. *Please note as this workshop is about a prescription only medicine it will only be open to appropriately qualified medical practitioners
Body contouring has become big business. We explore the growth of the body shaping market and examine some of the machines that have been making waves from ultrasound to radiofrequency and laser liploysis.
MORNING SESSION
MORNING SESSION
WORKSHOP ROOM 1 – DERMAL FILLERS One of the cornerstones of any aesthetic practice, we take a look at the most recent developments in dermal fillers. From some recently launched products to new techniques. ‘London Lip Queen’ Rita Rakus will present on treating lips.
WORKSHOP ROOM 2 – SKINCARE WORKSHOP ROOM 1 – CLINIC MARKETING Whether you want to know how to stand out from your competitors or are just looking to refresh and improve your marketing, this workshop is for you. With advice from some of the medical aesthetic industriy’s leading marketers, this is a workshop not to be missed.
WORKSHOP ROOM 2 – REGULATION UPDATE 2010 will see the introduction of the new Shared Regulation scheme. We look at how this is going to impact the industry and tell you how to make sure you qualify for the quality mark. We will also explore the topic of laser regulation and CQC registration. With speakers including Sally Taber from the IHAS.
AFTERNOON SESSION MAIN AUDITORIUM – HOW TO CHANGE A FACE How do you change a face? We look at how clinics can transform someone’s skin. From the importance of diet and nutrition to skincare and treatments our panel of experts will ponder this question with interaction from the audience. Speakers will include US medical skincare specialist Denise Byrnes.
Nearly every clinic now carries a skincare line, but what are the key things a good cosmeceutical needs and are these products really proven to work? We explore everything from ingredients to delivery systems and retailing in this workshop.
AFTERNOON SESSION MAIN AUDITORIUM – MEDICO LEGAL It is a legal minefield out there so if you want to know how to cope with everything from malpractice claims to bad press then this workshop is for you. Speakers will include media and libel lawyer Sarah Webb.
WORKSHOP ROOM 1 – MANAGING STAFF Finding the right staff can be a huge challenge so we have brought together some of the aesthetics industry’s recruitment experts to give you advice on how to find and keep the best staff. From motivating your team to recruiting the right people for the job and carrying out interviews. We will also take a look at the importance of front of house staff with some revealing secret shopper examples of how a badly run reception can damage your business. Speakers will include Vivienne Smith, Martyn Roe and Ron Myers.
WORKSHOP ROOM 2 – LASER WORKSHOP Lasers have so many roles within an aesthetic practice. We look at the different and most advanced technologies and examine their applications, from hair removal and facial rejuvenation to skin tightening and fat removal. Speakers will include Dr Jon Exley.
WORKSHOP ROOM 1 – WEB WORKSHOP From building a website to the dos and don’ts of online advertising and using social networking media, this in depth workshop will cover everything internet based. Speakers will include Ron Myers from Aesthetic Business Services and ConsultingRoom.com as well as Stephen Handisides from MyFaceMyBody.com
To pre-book a place on any of our workshops please contact the events team on 01268 754 897. Places are limited and are on a first-come-first-served basis.
WORKSHOP ROOM 2 – MEDICAL NEEDLING
Hollie-Jane Dunwell
One of the most talked about treatments in 2009, we bring you everything you need to know about medical needling, from the products to use to treatment protocols. Live demonstrations will also be held to show you how the treatment is performed.
CONTACTS For further information regarding exhibition space please contact: T: 01268 754 897 E: hollie.jane@creativemedialtd.co.uk For event-related sponsorship opportunities contact:
Emilia Bronze
T: 01268 754 897 E: emilia@creativemedialtd.co.uk
cosmeticnewsuk.com
23
View On | The Year Ahead
lOOKiNG
ForWard
With 2010 in full swing we find out what some of the industry’s key players are looking forward to in the year ahead and what were their highs and lows of 2009
JUliAN POPPle, GAlDeRmA There was nothing negative in 2009 from a Galderma prospective. This was the year at Galderma entered into the pure cosmetic UK market, having spent many years in the dermatology sector. it soon became apparent to Galderma that the cosmetic customers were crying out for competition within the botulinum toxin market place. as with any business sector, in these difficult economic times - competition is good for many reasons, by providing increased value for money and customer services and encouraging the provision of ‘value added offerings’. so 2009 has been very positive for Galderma, our distributors, the injector and most importantly the patient. the gaining of an aesthetic license for azzalure® and its subsequent launch has broken what was previously a monopoly within the approved aesthetic toxin market. in 2010 Galderma plans to continue to provide the cosmetic customer with increased product choices with an even wider range of value added offerings.
RON myeRs, CONsUlTiNG ROOm.COm
24
Historically we have not seen anything like the
PeTeR CRANsTONe, eUROsURGiCAl
recent global recession and ‘credit crunch’, which
like all businesses, cosmetic surgery and
has caused belt-tightening both amongst consumers
non-surgical treatments have been affected
and aesthetic industry participants, all of which has
by the world recession. Consumers are
lead to an evident contraction in sales of cosmetic
nervous about their finances will put off
treatments and devices.
having cosmetic procedures until financial
equipment manufacturers have been reporting on
confidence returns. Recession’s can also
a ‘tough year’ with intercytex Group plc. halting
be good. it certainly sorts out the strong
production of vavelta® and attempting to sell off its
companies, with secure products and
assets, whilst johnson & johnson has shut up shop on its
services, from the weaker. it’s an opportunity
recently acquired evolence® business, quoted in the
to focus on what really maters in business,
press as due to lower than expected sales of the dermal filler.
good product placement, service, sales and
on the other hand, well established clinics seem to have weathered the economic
a continual search for improvement.
storm fairly well with many reporting little if any fall in profits, and some recruitment firms
2009 has sharpened our attention on what
reporting on a growth in industry posts.
matters most for a company. Providing
economic influences aside, 2010 holds many changes for the aesthetic industry with the
innovative and unique products that can really
likely launch of the ihas shared regulation scheme for Cosmetic injectables in the early
make a difference. our re-branding and launch
part of the year, and the proposed deregulation of lasers and iPl by the Care Quality
of the Pure implants – Polyurethane breast
Commission for an, as yet undecided, form of self-regulation in the autumn.
prosthesis – was nothing new. a look at the data
the prospect of a General election in the summer, with a likely change in governing
from the recent core-breast implant studies
party, and a ‘double-dip’ recession forecast by some financial pundits means that 2010
from the usa, put the question of what will
will remain an uncertain and uncharted territory for all of us from a broader economic
benefit the patient’s most and has created for
perspective.
us a compelling new slant on the whole breast
however, on a more positive note, yet more new launches of dermal fillers and
implant procedure.
botulinum toxins are planned for next year which should increase competition yet further,
What has 2010 in store? Fat transfer is a ‘hot
and has the potential to accelerate a trend already established over the last year or so
topic’, however the current practices are
whereby product suppliers and distributors are willing to offer significant discounts for the
unpredictable, slow and rather heath-robinson.
certainty of committed purchasing contracts.
New fast, efficient and closed systems for fat
Consumers are likely to continue to spend, but will be looking for savvy purchases
collection and re-injection will provide solutions
which give them value for money in terms of the cosmetic results achieved, and will be
for advancing this technique and ultimately
on the look out for special offers and loyalty schemes to make their hard earned cash
make fat transfer a better more reliable choice
stretch that little bit further.
for patients.
cosmeticnewsuk.com
eDDie HOOKeR, HAmilTON FRAseR
JON eXley, lyNTON
One of Hamilton Fraser's highlights in 2009 was increasing the level of cover for our customers at no additional expense. We now provide products liability, work away public liability and personal accident cover as standard in addition to medical malpractice insurance. We also responded to practitioner representations concerning price reductions and we successfully negotiated better rates for our customers to assist with their expenses during the economic downturn. Within the cosmetic industry, a real positive was the ihas receiving ministerial approval for the implementation of the plan for shared regulation for cosmetic injectables. this will help to raise standards within the industry. the negative has to be the economic climate. this has put significant strain on our customers who are trying to maintain a successful business. as practitioners have been hit by the recession and costs need to be looked at, insurance spend is always one area that gets the most scrutiny. average premiums per practitioner/clinic have dropped by around 40% over the past 18 months and whilst this is good news for the industry we are now seeing underwriting profits being squeezed. With no investment income to bolster the insurer coffers and administration expenses and litigation costs continually rising, upward pressure on rating is inevitable at some stage despite the low claim frequency. this year we are launching a new surgery insurance facility, which means we can now offer our customers a complete insurance service. Practitioners can obtain professional liability cover for their practice of aesthetic treatments and insure their clinic at the same time. We aim to maintain 2009 premium levels going forward wherever possible and look to enable an online customer administration centre to allow practitioners to request changes to their policy whenever it suits them, rather than try to contact us during the day when they are at their busiest. i also look forward to seeing how the ihas scheme progresses and the effect it will have on raising standards for the use of injectables.
DAViD GOWeR, meDiCAl AesTHeTiC GROUP We entered 2009 expecting the worst. Our market sector has enjoyed double-digit annual growth for almost 10 years and virtually all treatments are discretionary. it seemed that recession would ensure a rapid reduction in business initially for the clinics and inevitably for the suppliers. What in fact appears to have happened is that the weak business – both supplier and clinic – failed quickly, but those that were well established and continued to deliver high standards of service not only retained their customers but experienced growth. the growth, however, was not with out cost and most clinics report that they are working much harder for a similar or even lower net return. medical aesthetic supplies continued to see growth on a like for like basis and also added some new product groups such as aqaumid® and the innovative iNNo mesotherapy products from spain. more and more doctors are recognising the benefits of permanent filler for volumising and treating deep lines and folds. Certainly not suitable for all, but very satisfactory results for the right indication with an extremely high safety profile built up over nine years of treatments. med-fx has become an established premium supplier during the past year and seen growth ahead of target. Clinics appreciate the efficiency and convenience of receiving all of their requirements the day after placing the order free of shipping costs and the support of a knowledgeable team at the end of a telephone to deal with any queries and prescription products.
When we all look back on 2009 i'm sure that the strongest memory will be the economic crisis. i found that there were a number of clinics that wanted to expand their business but were unable to obtain finance to invest in new equipment, that’s why many customers took advantage of lynton's unique rental scheme which enabled them the develop the businesses. in fact i noticed that whilst the high-street reported a downturn in spending, many of lynton's customers reported a strong performance. it’s often true that in recession strong brands and those companies offering high quality will prosper. a real highlight for lynton in 2009 was the launch of our new laser training courses in conjunction with the university of manchester. as education becomes increasingly important in our industry, delegates attending the university courses have really benefited from learning from world class lecturers and experts from the industry. in 2010 i'm expecting to see a slow but gradual economic recovery in which those clinics which are quick to invest and expand will probably capitalise on the increasing consumer confidence. lynton have negotiated with various finance companies which will now enable us to offer our own finance package to clinics looking to invest in new equipment such as our recently launched fractional Co2 laser (youlaser). lynton will also be increasing its investment into business support packages for clinics. as consumers have a wider choice with regard to aesthetic treatments, lynton realises that clinics will need a greater amount of support in marketing and driving their businesses. We’ve already launched some new marketing and sales training courses specifically designed for clinics in the aesthetics industry. the other hot topic for 2010 will be the proposed deregulation of lasers/iPl for october. Currently groups such as ihas and the Bmla have been working with the department of health to develop a revised form of regulation. But whatever happens, it is expected that consumers will continue to demand treatments from clinics offering high standards of treatments with policies and procedures similar to those currently expected by the CQC.
although our sector has shown itself to be resilient in recession and there is clearly still growth to be seen, i am cautious about 2010. the fundamentals remain the same. Personal debt is at a record high and more employees are experiencing reductions in income. Property prices remain flat and are probably heading for a further dip. By the spring of 2010 we may see vat increase to 20 per cent as this doomed Government head towards election defeat by the summer. the contrary argument is that whilst 10 per cent may be out of work or facing a tough time, 90 per cent continue to enjoy a high standard of living and anti-ageing treatments are becoming an integral part of their lifestyle expectation. at the very least i expect to see pressure on margins as consumers demand more value, competition increases, particularly in the filler and botulinium toxin market and every one increases their marketing activity to retain market share.
cosmeticnewsuk.com
25
View On | The Year Ahead
Phil Richardson, Euromedical Systems Ltd. We started to feel the effects of the recession as early as October 2008 with a reduction in customers order values rather than a drop in the number of orders. Consequently, we decided to: a) find a way to increase both orders and order values and b) exert a tighter control over our operating costs. We increased our product portfolio with the addition of Scar Ease silicone gel sheets and Care-Fix post operative support and mastectomy bras. Both have been a great success. Interestingly, our breast implant sales have remained strong despite the recession. We also introduced a small economical IPL machine for
hair removal. We revamped our websites to give them a fresher, more modern look. We now offer more ‘in-house’ product training making training more economical for clients than attending third party generic training courses. All in all I believe it was mainly positive; the only negative being the fall in value of the Pound against the Euro and US Dollar (we buy mainly from Eurozone and the USA) which affected our profit margins. As for 2010? Well more of the same I think. More cosmetic surgeons, aesthetic doctors and nurses chasing a static, price conscious client base. Only those offering something different will survive.
Tracey and David Beesley, SkinBrands 2009 has been on the whole a positive year for us, but everyone we speak to seems to be saying that they are working harder than ever to produce the same result as the previous year! It is apparent that the cosmeceutical skincare market is due to grow and grow. Printed in Cosmetic News in December was the fact that although cosmetic products were down by one per cent in the USA, cosmeceutical skincare growth was seven per cent, suggesting the same pattern will follow here. Indeed, our business has reflected that trend in 2009. What is evident to us is, those clinics and practices who have raised the bar and strive to achieve the highest standards of client service continue to not only thrive, but grow. Just recently we were at the Medizen Clinic in Sutton Coldfield – their treatment books were full probably because they have the highest standards of excellence, superb customer experience and all the staff are fully trained, motivated and passionate about the business they are in. The same can be said of Medikas in Somerset, excellent customer service which means that Dr Molina is kept contantly busy. Both these doctor-led clinics are headed up by informed, motivated doctors who lead by their example. For us, we have great brands, all in demand, we are very confident for 2010.
advertorial problems included sizing issues; shapeless designs; low-cut necklines that gape and high cut ones that catch the jaw or choke the wearer; backs that ride up; waists that dig in; and hems that are too short. As a result, our new uniforms are designed with both the user and their employer in mind – the garments are comfortable and stylish, can be washed time and again and Ameerah has launched a new range of uniforms that have been created
are available at an affordable price.”
specifically for healthcare professionals by a high street designer. Midlandsbased Ameerah has unveiled its first range of female, male and unisex
The range includes traditional looks and colours
tunics, trousers and scrubs which have been designed to offer the wearer
as well as fresh designs and modern shades.
maximum style, comfort, quality and fit – all at an affordable price.
Quality is equally important – stitching is strong and the fabric can be washed and ironed
The company was set up by two sisters who have designed collections for top fashion retailers such as Zara, Top Shop and Marks & Spencer and have extensive experience training beauty
time and again without shrinking or fading. On average, we expect our uniforms to last up to at least 18 months.
and healthcare professionals worldwide. The company can cater for everything The new healthcare range has been launched
from large contracts to small individual
following feedback from procurement officers
orders. It also offers a bespoke tailoring
at NHS Scotland and other healthcare
service allowing organisations to create
professionals. This research, explains
uniforms that complement their
managing director Sughra Khaliq, was
corporate identity.
invaluable when developing the new range. She said: “We discovered that large
To view Ameerah’s
organisations need high quality unisex, male
healthcare range or for
and female garments that can withstand
further information, visit
rigorous washing, offer good fit and
www.ameerah.co.uk or
freedom of movement. However, common
phone 01332 331643.
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the uk’s oNly free of chArge m
be pArt
cosmetic
The Business De
April 16
A body of informAtion for the The Cosmetic News Expo is the UK’s first free of charge trade show for the aesthetics industry, giving you a unique opportunity to gather knowledge about the latest treatments and developments at the same time as networking with your peers and attending hands-on workshops and lectures, without breaking the bank. With Galderma as Platinum Sponsor, this is the one date in the aesthetics calendar that you can’t afford to miss. Whether you are a cosmetic doctor, aesthetic nurse, dermatologist, plastic surgeon, cosmetic dentist, aesthetician or practice manager, there is something for you at the Cosmetic News Expo 2010. * Please note that the Cosmetic News Expo is designed for industry professionals only and workshops and lectures featuring prescription only medicine, such as botulinum toxin, will only be open to suitably trained medical practitioners.
www.cosmeticnewsuk.com
medicAl Aesthetics TrADE shoW
of the
rEvolUTioN
esign Centre, Islington, London
6th & 17th 2010
e AEsThETiCs iNDUsTry the ultimAte tool for your business The Business Design Centre, Islington, London April 16th & 17th 2010
PLATINUM SPONSOR
People in Profile | Tracy Parkin
going FUll ciRcLe
We find out why Tracy Parkin has returned to the company that first ignited her passion for medical aesthetics tracy Parkin has worked in the beauty and aesthetics industry for her entire
during her time at Cosmeceuticals tracy was also instrumental in developing
career. starting out 25 years ago as a beauty therapist, tracy quickly realised
and launching vitage, an anti-oxidant skincare range, with dr Bowler and
that her true passion lay in working with innovative and different products and
introducing bareminerals into the uK beauty market in 2002 through the
technologies.
professional sector and via QvC.
“i went into the beauty industry because i had a great interest in health and skincare and worked as a regular therapist for a while before deciding to get
“vitage was my baby if you like”, she also says. “When i first met Patrick it was
into a direct product sales and marketing environment”, she says. “i have
actually called vitaCe (vitamins a, C and e) and Patrick was at the forefront
always had more of an entrepreneurial, inquiring and creative mind and i
of recommending anti-oxidants as must haves for skin but when i joined we
wanted to work with things that were innovative and different, that is what really
renamed it vitage because it was really ‘vitamins against ageing’.
floated my boat!”
30
sPOTTiNG A NiCHe
sAle AND ReTURN
Before discovering the world of cosmeceuticals tracy moved into the then very
due to the huge success and growth of both bareminerals and md formulations
new and emerging field of natural nail care, working with the pioneering the
in the uK market, Cosmeceuticals was sold in 2007 and the company was
Natural Nail Company. she spent eight years growing the brand and, during this
effectively split down the middle. Bare escentuals, the american company,
time, spent a lot of time establishing accounts with the ‘big boys’ in the industry
which owned the rights to bareminerals, took that brand along with md
including Champneys spa.
Formulations and md Forte while Cosmeceuticals kept Courthouse Clinics,
“Because i was working so much with spas i was seeing a lot of clients and their
omnilux, vitage and diamond tome. tracy stayed on as sales and marketing
customers becoming more discerning and wanting more results”, tracy says. “at
director for Bare escentuals. however, a few years on, tracy is back with
the same time people were going to Champneys to convalesce on the advice
Cosmeceuticals, this time as their managing director, and it was the challenge
of their cosmetic surgeon and so i ended up meeting some of these people
of taking on the Priori brand that enticed her.
and we started talking about the products they could use prior to surgery and
“joe lewis (the man behind Priori and the pioneer of aha technology) and i
after surgery to help heal and improve their skin, which got me very interested
go back years and he said he would love me to work with the Priori range”, she
in this field.”
says. “Working on md formulations was great, and i have great affection for my
tracy soon realised that the anti-ageing market was only going to grow and
time spent with the brand, but i knew there was very little product development
that this was a real niche area in the market that she wanted to move into. in
or innovation it wasn’t really moving on anymore and so from a personal and
2000 tracy was head hunted by pioneering cosmetic doctor Patrick Bowler, the
skin specialist perspective i wanted to go onto the next level. i love working with
medical director of Courthouse Clinics and also the founder of a distribution
concepts , especially ones that i predict will be the next big thing, that’s what
company named Cosmeceuticals ltd.
i have done throughout my career, i have worked with products that have
“Patrick wanted somebody to help him get the word out there about
been very successful and then i have moved on. i met with joe and Patrick and
cosmeceutical type products and to educate people, because back then
decided that i would work with them and take Priori into the cosmeceutical
nobody really understood what cosmeceuticals were “, tracy explains. “ i was
marketplace.”
appointed as sales and marketing director and started working alongside
While the company may still have the same name, tracy says it is very different
Patrick to grow the business and expand md Formulations’ presence in the
to the one she joined a decade ago. as managing director her role is to
market. my job was to really get it out there and get it more recognised in order
oversee and develop further all of the Cosmeceutical brands.
to start to change people’s mindsets on why you would use cosmeceutical
“my role here is a very interesting one”, she says. “We know that the anti-ageing
products in a medical and professional spa environment.
market and the natural skincare market are predicted to be the biggest
“Now the word cosmeceuticals is widely accepted but back then it was a hard
growth sectors over the next five or six years. the industry is changing rapidly;
slog and was very challenging. a lot of people would shut the door in my face
people want more cost effective cosmeceutical and natural products
and say ‘no thanks we are quite happy with what we have got’. But i knew that
without compromising on results more so than ever. Priori with it’s ability to
consumers wanted results driven products, they didn’t just want things that just
deliver results to all types of clients and for all consumer choices makes it a
smelt nice anymore and after a great deal of hardwork and tenacity we made
unique and profitable business option for clinics and spas. i am working on
headway.”
delivering with Priori and vitage and the whole Cosmeceuticals company
cosmeticnewsuk.com
concept to offer a complete end to end, value for money solution for
natural cosmeceutical skincare line CoffeeBerry, but she is keen to stress
the professional market.”
that it is not just another mineral make-up line, it is a true complimentary
a large part of tracy’s role is also educating the beauty sector about the
skin care solution. “We will be bringing CoffeeBerry minerals to the market
differences between their brands and other brands on the market, and
place as of spring this year”, she says. “it is not a make-up line it is very
this is a challenge she enjoys. “i was talking to someone the other day who
different to any other mineral concept available in the beauty marketplace
wanted me to simplify it for her - what is the difference between what i am
today. in essence it is an extension of skincare – we are not about lipsticks
selling now over and above what i used to do?” she says. “the best way
or mascaras. there will be six foundations and three other key products plus
i have heard it explained is by joe, he says that the original ahas are like
eco-friendly application brushes in the product set. it will all be based on 100
faxes. Faxes are used and can still be used today but most of us prefer to
per cent pure natural ingredients delivering significant anti-ageing benefits
work with email and other forms of new technology. there is nothing wrong
to the skin, including camouflage and protection and skin healing. it will be
with the fax it is just that we know we can be quicker, smarter, simpler
a fantastic add on to any beauty salon, medical clinic or spa to support all
and more efficient with other new methods and i think a lot of people
their professional treatments and procedures without them having to carry
understand that.”
the cost of a full make-up line.”
eXCiTiNG Times
PeRFeCT TimiNG
2010 looks set to be an incredibly exciting year for Cosmeceuticals with
tracy’s mission is to get clinics, salons and spas to really embrace the concept
a number of new product launches currently in the pipeline. the first is
of cosmeceuticals and not be afraid to retail them to their clients, and with so
Priori Cellular recovery serum with dNa enzyme Complex, a targeted
much consumer demand and awareness about skincare she believes now is
skincare therapy that accelerates the correction and recovery of
the perfect time.
ageing skin.
“Professionals have a fantastic opportunity to capitalise on what is happening
“We have various new things that we are launching this year which i
in the industry at the moment because skin professionals can give such one
think the industry is going to find very, very interesting”, tracy says. “the
to one specific information on skin and treatments available far better than
Priori Cellular recovery serum with dNa enzyme Complex is unique,
anybody in a retail store environment”, she says. “Clinics and salons have a real
nobody has anything else like it. it is incredibly innovative as it will
opportunity to differentiate themselves from the retail giants and win over clients
actually have an effect on the healing mechanisms of the skin and
by advising them to use products and have reatments that actually work with
improve any other product that you use on your skin from any other
qualified professional people who have gone through extensive training and
range. it is a versatile modern day product for every consumer lifestyle
know their stuff inside and out.
and every consumer choice. it is really, really interesting and clever
“We have got products that are far far, far more effective than products that sit
technology and a great retail addition and simple extension to any
on shelves in retail departments delivering real clinically validated and proven
clinic, salons or spa’s product lines.”
results. if you are working with great products linked with a great company as
the other product tracy is extremely positive about is CoffeeBerry skin
well as experienced skin specialists who know their products and know how to
Perfecting minerals to extend the already successful first and unique
educate the consumer then you really are in a win win situation.”
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t: 0845 003 8191 f: 0871 990 6336 e: admin@lasercareservices.co.uk www.lasercareservices.co.uk
Special Feature | Chemical Peels
the skinnY on peels Us skin specialist Denise Byrnes on today’s chemical peel innovations
denise Byrnes is co-founder and director of product development of
as we enter a new decade and a New year, researchers and skincare manufacturers are looking at skin rejuvenation and chemical peeling in new light. Below is an overview of some key questions surrounding peels, including:
société Clinical skincare, llC atlanta, Georgia. denise boasts more than 20 years experience as a medical skincare specialist, permanent make-up artist, owner of a successful medical skincare clinic, international speaker and educator. her robust career experience encompasses having worked for, and consulted with, well-known companies, including Biomedic, obagi and Cosmedix/ results rx. Byrnes has studied under top industry experts, including dr Zein obagi,
– how is skin affected by chemical peels? – What technological advances have been made in chemical peels, their formulations and ingredients? – What is the new paradigm shift in chemical peeling? – When presenting chemical peels to clients, what is the best way to emphasise their skin rejuvenation benefits while de-emphasising the associated trauma and inflammation? When considering the use of chemical peels, it is important to understand the basic cellular function of the skin and the impact chemical peels can have on it, as well as the skin condition you are working with as the trusted practitioner. skin, the largest organ of the body, is dynamic in nature. Comprised of three very different layers: epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous tissue; it accounts for about 15 per cent of our body weight and averages from 12 to 20 square feet if stretched out flat. it is made up of roughly 70 per cent water, 25 per cent protein, and two per cent lipids. (see illustration). the important thing for us to remember, when looking at the skin, is that birthing rate
Cristina Carlino, dr Barry sears, dr jean
for cells decreases with age. the cycle
Carruthers, dr Nicholas Perricone, and dr
for Keratinocytes (major cell of the
sheldon Pinnell, along with a bevy of others,
epidermis), from the birthing at the
and regularly takes continuing education
basal layer to the proliferation at the
courses to further expand her knowledge
stratum corneum (outermost layer of
and keep her abreast of current trends and
the epidermis), takes about 28 days
new innovations. While traveling the world
for an infant all the way to 40 to 120
lecturing on various aspects of skin health
days for an adult. since adult skin cells
and innovations within the industry, she
remain for a longer duration before
continues to research and develop new
they are exfoliated off the surface, they
products for the societe Clinical skincare
collect more damage.
line. active within the society of Plastic
unfortunately, these damaged cells
surgery skincare specialists (sPssCs) since its inception in 1995, Byrnes served on its board of directors from 2000-2006 and as its president in 2004-2005. she is also a member of the society of Cosmetic Chemists as well as the society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals.
replicate continuously in this fashion Cross-section of skin
and the outer membranes withstand attacks from free radicals. the dNa
then becomes mutated. in addition, enzymes called matrix metalloproteinase continually break down vital support components of the skin and cause an increase in acne, pigmentation and ageing. most mild peels work by partly removing the stratum corneum, which speeds up skin renewal – consider it a mini workout for the skin – and, when patients also use technologically-advanced skincare products daily, it is like maintaining a healthy diet for the body. this is extremely important to the ultimate skin response. We must consistently provide the elements needed to achieve the best health and retain the integrity of the skin. ultimately, the condition of the epidermis and dermis dictates how fresh your skin looks and how well it absorbs and holds moisture. let’s take a look at what research is showing and how these components affect skin conditions.
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cosmeticnewsuk.com
ChroNiC iNFlammatioN
(collagen and elastin) is developed, some of it is destroyed by this enzyme, and everything stays in check. this balance gets disrupted as we age and less is made but more is destroyed – this can be seen particularly in photodamaged,
Newly-available data shows that chronic inflammation is a primary cause
sensitive and ageing skin. these ingredients are key to maintaining health in all
of ageing skin, acne, and pigmentation. inflammation is characterised by a
skin types, even acneic skin.
localised protective response to an injury or destruction of tissue. there are a number of responses, including increases in local blood flow, immune cell
mmP examples:
activation in the affected area, a release of large amounts of free radicals, and
Collagenase – destroys collagen causes micro-scarring
destruction of normal, healthy tissue.
elastinases – destroys elastin causes micro-scarring
inflammation serves to clear out the infection and then subsides, allowing
hyaloronidase – destroys hyaluronic acid
normal tissue to be rebuilt. When infection remains, chronic inflammation settles
tyrosinase – converts tyrosine to melanin
in and may linger for weeks or even years. Chronic inflammation may persist
5-alpha reductase – enzyme affecting acne
even without infection - either because the inflammation response has become highly sensitised or because the immune system perceives the body’s own
ingredients like retinol,tocopheryl acetate ,algae extract, Grape seed extract,
tissues as foreign. an increase in both of these forms of chronic inflammation
l-Carnosine, Willowherb-alp-sebum and echinacea Purpura are just a few
leads to ageing, increased acne break-outs and increased hyperpigmentation.
mmP inhibitors that help the skin both prior to and post chemical peels, and can
as we age, we often develop autoimmune conditions as well as other forms
ultimately improve the overall outcome (see tables 1-2).
of chronic inflammation. the majority of ‘mature’ skin has some degree of low-
let’s look at chemical peeling by skin condition. When you look at the
grade inflammation and/or mild autoimmune disorders. Chronic inflammation
contributing factors causing the problem it is easier to appropriately select
contributes to the ageing, acne and pigmentation skin disorders because it
the correct treatment option (see tables 3-5)
floods tissues with free radicals and promotes the destruction of normal cells. like most mechanisms of these skin conditions, chronic inflammation creates a vicious cycle. this process tends to increase the level of chronic inflammation and that, in turn, accelerates the condition.
the NeW ParadiGm iN ChemiCal PeeliNG Chemical peels in today’s world incorporate ingredients aimed at controlling inflammation, like anti-oxidants, matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors, and anti-inflammatory agents. By utilising an approach aimed at rejuvenation instead of trauma to the skin tissue will help prevent some of the problems, like
TABle 1: Peel BOOsTiNG iNGReDieNTs INGREDIENT
BENEFIT
Allantoin
Anti-Inflammatory, Medicinal
Arginine
Antioxidant, Healing
Oat Kernel Extract
Lifts & Firms
L-Carnosine
Rejuvenated, Antioxidant, Inhibits Collagen Cross-Linking
Vitamin C
Promotes Collagen Synthesis
Red Algae
De-Pigments, Brightens
TABle 2: sKiN NeeDs
prolonged healing or infection, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
BENEFIT
INGREDIENTS
commonly seen with older peels.
Exfoliating
L-Lactic Acid, Malic acid, Glycolic, Acid, Salicylic Acid, Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate
advances in the ingredients used, as well as post peel skincare has made
Brightening
Resveratrol, Lemon Peel Oil, Resacetophone, Niacinamide, Licorice Root
designed for specific skin conditions and boosting agents applied post peel
Antioxidant
L-Ascorbic Acid, Grape Seed Extract, Resveratrol, Vitamin E, Thyme Oil, Ginising Root
added for additional benefit, which assists the skin throughout the healing
UV Protectant
Echinacea Purpura, L-ascorbic Acid, Pinus Pinaster Bark, Grape Seed Extract
process. some peeling agents include ingredients like vitamin C to help in
Calming
Aloe, Allatoin, Birch bark, Yucca Root Extract
controlling inflammation, anti-oxidants, skin lighteners, photo protectants
MMP Inhibitor
Vitamin E, Artemisia Umbelliformis Extract, Algae Extract, L-Carnosine
DNA Repair
Baicalin (Chinese Scullcap)
Barrier Repair (TWEL)
Niacinamide (B3), Shea Butter, Vitamin E, Ginseng Root Extract
large strides from the early days of chemical peeling. Peels today can be
and healing agents. Palmaria palmate extract (red algae) assists with melanin production, and can be very effective for hyper-pigmented patients. this newer ingredient acts on the different steps involved in the skin pigmentation process: melanogenesis – transport of melanosomes and uv-induced pigmentation, thus proposing a complete and innovative depigmenting biological concept. it limits melanogenesis by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, the convergent point of signaling pathways and reducing the quantity of melanin synthesised, which
TABle 3: ACNe sKiN AND THe FiVe mAiN CAUses 5 Main Causes Sebum
Over Production of sebaceous gland
acting on the protein anchoring complex.
Inflammation
Basis of all skin conditions
Peptides, like amino acids, are added directly into peel base formulas to build
Bacteria
Overgrowth because of cellular buildup and oil production
collagen and to help repair damaged tissue. a peptide used in one formula
Enzyme MMP’s
1. 5-alpha reductase – enzyme that binds with testosterone causing Sebum to become sticky. 2. Hyaloronidase – enzymes responsible for scarring and pitting 3. Lipase – secreted by bacteria, contributes to inflammation (causes scarring)
Cellular Buildup
Insuffcient shedding of stratum corneum
is responsible for skin pigmentation. it governs the transport of melanosomes by
is Palmitoyl oligopeptide, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 (matrixyl 3000): a matrikine combination that recreates conditions conducive to cell and matrix turnover. matrikines are small peptides derived from matrix proteolysis. they act as cell messengers and regulate the sequence of events required for cutaneous restructuration and skin repair (wound healing). they also interact with specific receptors to activate certain genes involved in the process of extra cellular matrix renewal and cell proliferation, thus providing a visible anti-wrinkle efficacy. anti-oxidants used in product formulation are best suited if you are
TABle 4: sUN DAmAGeD / HyPeRPiGmeNTeD sKiN TyPes COmPONeNTs THAT CONTRiBUTe TO THis sKiN CONDiTiON: 6 Main Causes
using a broad spectrum approach of both fat and water soluble anti-oxidants.
UV Light
Over exposure to sunlight and UVA Light
Because free radicals can attack either the fat or water portion of the cell particularly, prior to applying a chemical peel. some manufactures like societe
Inflammation in skin increases Matrix Metalloproteasse Enzymes
Basis of all skin conditions MMP enzymes contain 2 zinc atoms MMP enzymes contribute to inflammation to cause pigment production Breaks down skin’s matrix Collagen and Elastin
Clinical skincare use such a formula and incorporate numerous anti-oxidants,
Heat
Excessive amounts can trigger melanin production
Trauma or Injury
Post procedure PIH (post inflammatory hyperpigmentation) Melasma
Rebound Pigment
Long term use or overuse of hydroquinone
Cellular Buildup
Slowed cellular turnover
membrane it is important to utilise formulations specifically developed for this –
both fat and water soluble, throughout the entire line. matrix metalloproteinase inhibitor ingredients are extremely important in helping to control the enzymes responsible for matrix breakdown in the skin. in young skin, the creation or synthesis of the skin’s matrix is in balance. as the matrix
cosmeticnewsuk.com
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Special Feature | Chemical Peels TABle 5: AGeiNG sKiN COmPONeNTs THAT CONTRiBUTe TO THis sKiN CONDiTiON Patients Complaints
Causes
Lines and Wrinkles
Collagen breakdown
Discoloration
Pigmentation
Loss of firmness to skin and lines and wrinkles
Matrix Metalloprotinase’s (MMP’s)
Dryness, sensitivity
Non-Interact Barrier
Sagging Skin
Elastin Breakdown
the chemical peel is one of the oldest rejuvenation methods, and is also one of the most popular due to its customisability by skin type and thickness, and overall end result. Chemical peeling is essentially an accelerated form of exfoliation induced by the use of a chemical agent. even with the wide variety of alternatives used today, including laser resurfacing or dermabrasion, chemical peels remain very popular because they are relatively inexpensive and their short-and long-terms effects are well understood. in addition, many practitioners have extensive experience with peels and feel they provide more reliable and effective results. Chemical peels are classified as a method of applying a chemical agent to the skin in order to cause a rejuvenate reaction, which in turn results in superficial damage and peeling. today’s chemical peel agents remove damaged skin layers and have the added advantage of beneficial ingredients that help with the skin’s healing phase, stimulate collagen, and provide anti-oxidant benefits. in fact, many chemical peels have ingredients within the peel solution or as a part of the post peel regimen that are aimed at controlling inflammation, ultimately combating the
Because of the superficial improvement seen with these types of peels they
ageing process caused by chronic inflammation.
are often repeated in a series to achieve and maintain the cumulative and
it is important to understand the depth a chemical will penetrate when
optimum results. superficial peels usually do not require downtime but it is
applied to the skin, which is dependant on many variables including:
common to have a brief period of redness, flaking and/or skin sensitivity immediately following a peel.
– the skin type undergoing treatment – Pre-peel skin preparation and at-home skincare regimen – the chemical peel agent itself, its concentration and ph
medium dePth Peels
– the number of coats applied and the peel duration medium depth peels affect the epidermis and upper dermis and are generally there are a variety of clinical signs that occur with chemical
preformed by a physician. the peeling agent is designed to induce damage
peeling. erythema is usually seen in the form of superficial peeling, frosting
that triggers a healing response, leading to mild-to-moderate skin remodeling.
(denaturing or coagulation of protein) with medium-depth peels, and
one of the most common chemical peeling agents used for medium
blanching in deep chemical peels. Clinicians should always receive
depth peels is tCa (trichloroacetic acid). after a tCa peel the skin’s surface
advanced training in chemical peeling prior to attempting to perform a
becomes crusty and mild-to-moderate swelling generally develops. Because
chemical peel on a patient.
of prolonged recovery times and potential risks, less of these types of peels are
When discussing a chemical peel treatment with a patient, it is important to
being used.
explain both the benefits and potential complications of the type of peel they are considering. Play up the benefits, which are the amazing results (show them before and after photos if available) and long-term benefits.
deeP Peels
recommend a pre-and post-treatment at-home or in-clinic regimen to speed their recovery and further enhance their results.
BeNeFits oF multiPle suPerFiCial or liGht Peels
although seldom used in today’s medical practices deep peels are mainly used to improve severe skin conditions. the most commonly used agent in deep peels is phenol, which produces tissue necrosis by denaturing biological polymers. deep peels should only be performed by a certified, experienced doctor. unlike superficial and medium depth peels, deep
superficial peels are the mildest of the chemical peels and are the most
peels are performed only once.
commonly used peel type for improving skin texture, color, acne breakouts,
in conclusion, when considering skin rejuvenation, it is important to look
and reduce roughness. they work by removing partial areas of the stratum
at all of the options available in treating this magnificent and important
corneum (dead surface skin cells) and sometimes the upper epidermis.
organ. With so many recent technological advances in chemical peel
they can improve discolorations, surface roughness and texture, and can
ingredients and the wide array of active agents on the market, make sure
be helpful in controlling acne.
you fully understand the potential complications and end results before
the following are just a few of the widely available chemical peel agents
making a recommendation to a patient and/or deciding on a chemical
used in lighter peels:
peel treatment specific to your skin’s condition. With the right knowledge you will experience the greatest success in achieving a youthful glow – and
alpha hydroxy acids: malic, lactic, and Glycolic
ultimately turn back the clock on ageing.
Beta hydroxy acids: salicylic
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jessner’s solution: Combinations of salicylic, lactic and resorcinol
Denise will be speaking at the Cosmetic News expo 2010. To book your
trichloracetic acid in low concentrations: approximately 10 per cent
free tickets visit www.cosmeticnewsuk.com
cosmeticnewsuk.com
Appeel in a Bag A powerful treatment for the pigmentation of the skin, for photo ageing and remarkably well tolerated by all skin types. ICP provides quick results, even after 5 days, significant improvement can be appreciated. It is comparable to classical medium depth peeling without the risk, discomfort or down time.
Specialist Solutions for Non-surgical Aesthetic Procedures
For further information about these innovative products call Medical Aesthetic Group on 02380 676733 or visit www.magroup.co.uk
MAG_ICP - half page Ad (265x95mm) Cosmetic News - Feb Issue 2010
Special Feature | Chemical Peels
the Right
CHemisTRy We round up some of the best peeling systems on the market
PRODUCT: JAN mARiNi sKiN ReseARCH (JmsR) DisTRiBUTOR: JmsR eUROPe iN sUmmARy: the jan marini alpha hydroxy acid ‘Glycolic Peel’ is derived
from sugar cane and has the smallest molecular structure of the aha family and therefore can penetrate into the skin much more effectively than other ahas. the peel can be performed with varying percentages of glycolic acid. Glycolic acid loosens the ‘glue-like’ attachments or cellular cement that is characteristic of many skin conditions such as ageing, acne, skin discolouration, and coarse texture. after just a few weeks the skin looks brighter, and clearer,
PRODUCT: COsmeDiX DisTRiBUTOR: meDiCO BeAUTy iN sUmmARy: the philosophy behind these plantbased peels is that if inflammation is the main cause of all skin conditions then why cause more inflammation by applying an irritant to the skin. the Cosmedix™ peels use a process called ‘chiral correction’ to make the majority of the active ingredients that they use less irritating. they have also removed all other known irritants, e.g., artificial colours and fragrances, artificial preservatives, sodium lauryl sulphate (commonly used in shampoos and shower gels), benzoyl peroxide (commonly used in acne, hair dye and teeth whitening products) and glycolic acid and contain a cocktail of anti-oxidants to protect your skin from free radical damage. the system can be used to resolve specific cosmetic skin concerns ranging from dry and sensitive to saggy and lined skin. Peels contains a blend of vitamins (a, C & e), potent anti-oxidants, chirally correct aha complex infused with epidermal growth factors and peptides. they offer the patient no or very low downtime which is easily managed post treatment with an after care homecare programme. the range includes tomorrow Peels, which are safe to use on Fitzpatrick v and vi as the homecare plan incorporates natural alternative to hydroquinone which conditions the skin prior and reduces the risk of post inflammatory hyper pigmentation (Pih) and today Peels, which can be done on the day with no prior skin preparation such as the Blueberry smoothie, a non-inflammatory alternative to microdermabrasion. the range also includes a physician only line, resultsrX. Contact: 0844 855 2499, order medicobeauty.com, www.cosmedix.com and www.resultsrx.com
and dry skin becomes hydrated and smooth. the glycolic acid helps reduce cell ‘build up’ at the lower levels of the skin. this facial procedure will resurface the skin giving dramatically softer, smoother texture, reducing fine lines and wrinkles and reducing scarring. the depth of the resurfacing peel is controlled by three factors, the concentration of the solution, the length of time it is applied, and the preparation of the skin. Clients must follow a home care programme, using glycolic acid based products for at least two weeks prior to the first peel, and also during the course of treatments, in order to reduce the risk of redness, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation and severe flaking of the skin.
Contact: 0208 868 4411, www.jmsreurope.com
PRODUCT: OBAGi BlUe Peel® DisTRiBUTOR: HeAlTHXCHANGe iN sUmmARy: the obagi Blue Peel uses trichloracetic acid (tCa) as the active ingredient mixed with the patented Blue Base from obagi. the practitioner can determine the strength of the peel based on the individual’s needs. the treatment is classified as a medical device so should only be carried out by a trained medical professional. the Blue Peel can improve skin tightness as well as reducing fine lines, wrinkles, acne scars, large pores and hyperpigmentation. it is suitable for all skin types and colours. the obagi Blue Peel® system is used in conjunction with the obagi Nu-derm system and patients will need to follow a skin-conditioning programme for at least six weeks before the peel is performed to ensure that the skin is in a healthy condition and to optimise results. Contact: 01481 736 837
PRODUCT: DCl ePi Peel® DisTRiBUTOR: DC meDiCA lTD iN sUmmARy: the epi Peel® system is available in three strengths. epi Peel® 40% is suitable for nurses and therapists who have undergone specialist training. it contains 40% glycolic acid to deeply exfoliate and remove unwanted skin cells, clearing the complexion. this gentle glycolic treatment contains willowherb, a natural anti-inflammatory, which calms the skin and prevents the discomfort and redness. epi Peel® 70% is for doctor use only and should only be carried out on those who have already experienced the epi Peel® 40% because it contains the maximum amount of free acid. a quick and easy procedure, which exfoliates and removes dead skin cells improving colour, texture and tone. the solution is rich in vitamin C providing superior antioxidant protection. Contact: 02380 676 733, www.dclskincare.com/home.html
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cosmeticnewsuk.com
PRODUCT: DeRmAQUesT sKiN THeRAPy DisTRiBUTOR: DeRmAPURe iN sUmmARy: dermaquest does a variety of peels for professional use. tCa 7/2 Professional Peel is a professional peeling treatment for doctors and is designed to improve overall skin tone and texture as well as combating ageing, pigmentation and acne. the peel combines trichloroacetic acid (7%) with salicylic acid (2%). the tCa 7/2 dissolves the top layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, which improves the overall skin texture and tone. the tCa stimulates the collagen production within the deeper skin layers, which reduces wrinkles and fine lines and is also effective at evening out colouring and lightening pigmentation. Plant derived extracts which include cucumber and aloe vera are incorporated into the formula and help calm and protect the skin, which makes this deep-cleansing peel suitable for all skin types. Contact: 01306 886 425
Our skin changes as we age, and damaging agents such as sunlight, smoking and pollution all leave their mark. The Mene & Moy System of active cosmetics contains naturally occurring compounds that have been skilfully combined and presented in order to pass through the skin barrier to reach the dermis below.
PRODUCT: DeRmACeUTiC DisTRiBUTOR: meDiCAl AesTHeTiC GROUP iN sUmmARy: a range of progressive chemical peels and homecare products, dermaceutic covers every peeling indication from superficial to deep. dermaceutic provides straightforward protocols and products that can be used by trained practitioners as well as beginners who
Powerful concentrations of Vitamin C, Phytic and Glycolic Acids are combined with soothing and nourishing Chamomile, Vitamins E and A, Shea Butter, Orchid Oils and Bisabolol to create a range of highly effective anti-ageing creams and lotions to suit all skin types, ages and racial groups. These unique formulations are available for home use or by your therapist in conjunction with the Mene & Moy Professional Range of clinical products.
can progress to become experts in dermaceutic peels. dermaceutic mask Peel is a superficial, clay based glycolic mask for greasy, acne prone skin, visible pores, excess sebum and dermatological facial cleaning. dermaceutic milk Peel is a superficial peel made up of glycolic acid, lactic acid and salicylic acid, which is well tolerated to treat dull complexions and wrinkles, stimulating the epidermis to smooth and soften the skin. dermaceutic spot Peel is a medium depth de-pigmenting peel containing a combination of mandelic acid, idebenone, emblica, retinol and salicylic acid. this is formulated for pigmentation spots, post-pregnancy dark spots, melasma, and postinflammatory pigmentation. dermaceutic Cosmo Peel is a medium peel offering either 15% or 18%. this versatile peel can be applied in layers giving the option of a single skin-tighteneing application with no
Specialist Solutions for Non-surgical Aesthetic Procedures
down time to a three layer classic medium depth tCa with a typical five day recovery. the 18% formulation is recommended for body peeling and removal of sunspots. Contact: 0238 067 6733, info@magroup.co.uk, www.magroup.co.uk
For further information about these innovative products call Medical Aesthetic Group on 02380 676733 or visit www.magroup.co.uk
MAG_MM System - half page Ad (265x95mm) Cosmetic News Feb 2010
Special Feature | Chemical Peels PRODUCT: AGeRA RX DisTRiBUTOR: eDeN AesTHeTiCs iN sUmmARy: agera® rx has developed a combination of peels that are anhydrous (without water) and can penetrate deeply into the skin without causing any significant irritation. these materials are then activated by adding cold water. this is distinctly unique from peels that just contain glycolic, which simply burn their way down through the upper layers of the skin. another unique feature is that microdermabrasion can be performed immediately after agera® rx Peels – on the same day, at the same appointment. the range is also extremely cost effective for clinics, costing, on average, £3 per skin peel, whilst the consumer will expect to pay in the region of £45-£60 per treatment. the peels have no downtime and can treat a full range of indications from acne and anti-ageing to pigmentation. Contact: 01245 227752, www.edenaesthetics.com
BeFORe
AFTeR
PRODUCT: sKiNmeDiCA ViTAliZe Peel DisTRiBUTOR: sKiNBRANDs iN sUmmARy: the skinmedica tNs vitalize Peel is one of the safest, strongest chemical peels available and includes a unique blend of peeling agents: alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, resorcinol, and retinoic acid and is ideal for all skin types but especially good for sun damage, hyper pigmentation and acne skin. the skinmedica tNs vitalize Peel stimulates collagen production and radically improves epidermal texture with lessoning of superficial lines, giving clients healthier
skinmedica tNs vitalize Peel (26.5% at 2-3ph)
PRODUCT: sOCieTe TRANsiTiON Peel sysTem DisTRiBUTOR: meDiCO BeAUTy iN sUmmARy: the transition Peel system and its unique peel boosting
is a superficial chemical that is suitable for all
agents addresses a huge variety of skin concerns. it can be used to even the
skin types but especially good for sun damage,
colour, texture and tone of the skin, clear acne-related concerns like blemishes
hyperpigmentation and acne skin. it incorporates
and impurities, soften the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, even the
resorcinol lactic acid, salicylic acid, panthenol
discolorations of dark spots and freckles and smooth the skin from the ravages
and saponins. effective on skin types i-vi, the peel
of sun damage and time. the system is designed for customisation by the
is available through physicians and implicates little
professional for the specific skin type and condition being treated. By utilising
or no downtime. the result is an improvement on
Peel Boosters the peel can be adapted to all skin types, including impure skin,
epidermal texture, lessening of superficial lines,
ageing skin, or skin in need of brightening. By utilising the Peel Prep, Peel Base
fading of pigmentation and the stimulation of
and Peel Boosters the professional controls the treatment delivery and end
collagen production. a visible improvement can be
results for the client. refinishing Complex should be used prior, for two-to-four
experienced after just one treatment.
weeks, for enhanced results.
Contact: 0208 997 8541, www.skinbrands.co.uk
Contact: 0844 855 2499
and more youthful looking skin. the peel is also perfect in helping fade pigmentation problems.
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PRODUCT: sKiNCeUTiCAls Gel Peels DisTRiBUTOR: sKiNBRANDs iN sUmmARy: skinCeuticals Gel Peels
available in two formulations, glycolic and
appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and is
lactic for dry skin in a 20/10% concentration
ideal for dry, photo-damaged and/or ageing
and a salicylic and mandelic for problem skin,
skin.skinCeutical Gel Peelsm includes salicylic
which is also in a 20/10% combination. Both
and mandelic acid to exfoliate the skin while
were developed to gradually improve the
peels are in a gel formation for enhanced
decongesting pores and reducing irritation.
appearance and texture of the facial skin
application precision and stability as well
this light chemical peel revitalises sensitive skin
without irritation and lifestyle disruption.
as minimising streaks, pooling and run-off.
and is suited for people with oily, acneic, or
the skinCeuticals Gel Peels minimises the
skinCeuticals Gel PeelGl contains glycolic
sensitive skin, as well as for patients with darker
appearance of surface lines, smoothes out
and lactic acid, which work synergistically
complexions.
rough skin texture, aids in clearing acne and
to exfoliate the skin while reducing irritation
Contact: 0208 997 8541,
helps fade hyperpigmentation. the peel is
and dryness. this treatment helps reduce the
www.skinbrands.co.uk
cosmeticnewsuk.com
PRODUCT: ePiONCe® Peel sysTem DisTRiBUTOR: eDeN AesTHeTiCs iN sUmmARy: the epionce® Peel system has
PRODUCT: iNNOVATiVe CONCePT Peel (iCP) DisTRiBUTOR: meDiCAl AesTHeTiC GROUP iN sUmmARy: initially created for sensitive skin and pigmentation,
been formulated for all skin types to improve fine
the iCP Peel also repairs the signs of photo-ageing, open pores, fine
lines and wrinkles, to improve firmness, smoothness
lines, uneven skin tone, redness and acne. also known as the also
and hyperpigmentation and to reduce bacteria and
known as the ‘asian Peel’ or ‘yellow Peel’, results are comparable to
yeast. it also effectively cleanses pores and removes
medium-depth peeling but minus the downtime and potential risks.
excess scaling. the four-step interchangeable system
the treatment renews the skin without causing weeping or scaling.
includes Peel Prep, equalizer Peel, Peel Booster and Peel
Based on retinoic acid and several de-pigmenting agents, iCP does
Neutralizer. equalizer Peel is a combination of salicylic
not require skin preparation and downtime is minimised to one day of
and salicin derived from willow bark, which is more
redness, two days of pinkness and one day of gentle peeling. although
lipophilic and comedolytic than other traditional glycolic
technically a superficial peel, the results of iCP are comparable to a
and lactic peels. the basic protocol covers both peel
medium-depth peels but without the downtime. the iCP peel does not
and booster applications. the equalizer Peel is used to
require skin preparation and recovery will involve around one day of
effectively cleanse the pores prior to the application
redness, two days of pinkness and some mild skin peeling. results peak
of the Peel Booster, helping the Peel Booster penetrate
at 28 days, but each peel will achieve an improvement of between
deeper into the epidermis. When stronger results are
50-70%. the treatment will clarify skin tone and reduce even abnormal
desired, the skincare professional may incorporate
pigmentation caused by hormonal factors such as skin discolouration
microdermabrasion to remove the outer stratum
caused by pregnancy (known as melasma). From a facial to a
corneum layers prior to treatment. adding layers of each
revitalising hand, arm or décolleté treatment the iCP peel is suitable for
Peel or Booster step also increases the peel strength,
all skin types and improves and prolongs the life of your skin, revealing a
peel penetration and end results. the equalizer Peel is a
healthy and more radiant complexion.
Beta-hydroxy acid (Bha) and its effects on the epidermis
Contact: 0238 067 6733, info@magroup.co.uk, www.magroup.co.uk
and upper dermis (where melanin is created) are similar to those of retin-a, but with less irritation. it is soluble in
BeFORe 1
AFTeR 1
BeFORe 2
AFTeR 2
oil and can exfoliate oily skin areas, even within oil-rich pores. therefore, it has a beneficial effect on pigmentary disturbances and sun damaged skin. Because it does exfoliate, sun protection is required following the peel procedure. Bha is a derivative of aspirin and is often used in skin care products to accelerate skin turnover, clear out pores and reduce disease-causing microbe counts. this improves the visible appearance of acne and problem skin. Bha penetrates more deeply, especially into pores, than alpha hydroxy acid (aha). Contact: 01245 227752 www.edenaesthetics.com/www.epionce.co.uk
PRODUCT: meNe & mOy DisTRiBUTOR: meDiCAl AesTHeTiC GROUP iN sUmmARy: using products from the mene & moy range,
it can cause a deep epidermolysis with a residual process that can
practitioners can create a peel protocol for the particular indication
frequent (post-inflammatory hyperchromia, hypochromia, infections and
they wish to treat. mene & moy Chelated trichloroacetic acid (tCa)
hypertrophic scars). a new form of tCa as a selective peeling agent, is
is a peeling agent that promotes important proteic coagulation when
in association with glycolic acid (it helps to promote a greater efficacy
in contact with the skin. Classically tCa is used in the liquid form, in
in the penetration of tCa). on the other hand, the chelation of the tCa
concentrations between 15% and 50% to promote chemical peelings
molecule (linking the tCa to aminoacids) does not allow this molecule to
on the face. this peeling in the liquid form should be done by medical
penetrate deeply into the skin and, because of this, unnecessary necrosis
professionals with a high level of training in the use of chemical peels,
of the dermal layer can be avoided.
because of the need to choose the patients correctly and knowledge
the main clinical indications for this peel are stains superficial hipercrômicas
of the type of lesion that can be treated with tCa. tCa, in the liquid form,
caused by the sun, fine wrinkles, ephelide and post acne residual
and concentration of 30%, can provoke necrosis (coagulation proteic)
hyperchromia.
of the epidermis and papillary dermis and/or reticular and consequently
Contact: 0238 067 6733, info@magroup.co.uk, www.magroup.co.uk
last for between three to eights weeks. the undesirable side effects are
cosmeticnewsuk.com
39
Anti-Ageing | Medicine
The
ScIence of ageing Dr Patrick treacy is director of ailesbury Clinics ltd. he is on the specialist medical register in ireland/europe, the uK and the middle east. he is a regular face on national television. he was among the first doctors worldwide to use the permanent filler Bio-alcamid for hiv/haart patients. his award-winning column the ‘Cutting edge’ is published weekly in the irish medical times and his lecture series on minor surgery was published monthly in modern medicine of ireland and runs concurrently on minorsurgery. net of which he is editor. he is also head of the editorial board of ireland’s premier cosmetic enhancment magazine, rejuvenate. he is a member of the British association of Cosmetic doctors (BaCd), the British medical laser association, the american society for aesthetic medicine, the american society for lasers in medicine and surgery, the european society of laser dermatology, the european society for dermatological surgery, the international society for dermatologic surgery, the international academy of Cosmetic dermatology and is a fellow of the royal society of medicine.
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cosmeticnewsuk.com
There has been a lot of talk recently about the influence of medications on the science of anti-ageing. Before I pass any judgement or opinion on the various contenders for this role, we must first look at what exactly we mean by ageing and then how can we control it? Having a background in both molecular biology and
and 70s. i don’t mind standing out on a limb on some issues
medicine, i am inclined to say that ageing is really an
but not this one as i don’t really know. i expect not as its use
accumulation of damage to molecules, cells, tissue and
is regulated by the Fda in the united states. this hormone is
eventually organs. The maximum life span known for humans
extensively promoted and used as an anti-ageing nutrient
is 122 years, whereas the maximum lifespan of a mouse is
supplement by people hoping it will restore the pleasure of youth
about three years. There are many reasons this happens,
or increase longevity. i expect, science does not support its use,
genetic differences between humans and mice, fertility rate,
although i am sure there are many people who would disagree
efficiency of DNA repair and the old ‘buzzword’ different rates
with me on this one.
of free radical production, etc. the increasing use of testosterone is also one to watch. the male antioxidants, including vitamins a, B-6, B-12, C and e are
menopause, does it really exist? We do know for many years that
believed to counteract free radicals and in some way prevent
declining levels of testosterone have been linked with decreased
chronic disease such as heart disease and diabetes. there are
energy and sex drive, decreased muscle mass, decreased mental
many studies that point towards the benefits of beta-carotene,
ability and even osteoporosis. We also know that more and more
folic acid and selenium. these anti-oxidants are found in a
men are taking testosterone but not enough is known about
variety of fruits and vegetables. i suppose as a scientist, i am
the long term effects of testosterone therapy for this purpose.
cynical about the advantage of these adjuncts in pill form.
in essence, doctors feel uncomfortable about prescribing this
regarding hormone use, i am going to stand out on a limb and
hormone because of the lack of scientific evidence to balance
look at the evidence supporting their use. When people talk
whether the declining levels are unhealthy, especially as there
about hormones, they usually mean taking dhea, testosterone,
is suspicion towards possible risks, including prostate problems.
oestrogen and probably human Growth hormone. hormones
We do know that about 20 per cent of men age 60 and older
are chemicals needed to help keep your vital organs working
have testosterone levels below the normal range (testosterone
properly, which decline naturally as we age. it is easy to see why
deficiency). the question is shouldn't these men be treated?
people would believe restoring their level to lead to previous levels. unfortunately, life is never that simple. We all know that hrt
in a sentence i would agree. if a patient feels decreased energy,
can restore a woman’s skin, vaginal secretions, energy etc. but it
reduced strength or cognitive ability, less sexual interest or
has its risks in older age groups also.
potency, i would certainly check his testosterone levels as well as his thyroid levels, mood and medication. if his testosterone
the maximum life span known for humans in 122 years
proved to be low i would treat him. in men with testosterone deficiency, testosterone therapy can restore sexual function and protect against heart disease (atherosclerosis). also, some men taking testosterone therapy report an increase in energy, sex drive and well-being. in effect, i would not deprive patient of testosterone if he was aware of the potential benefits and risks of the medication. though potentially beneficial, high doses of
look at the precursor hormone dhea, which is converted in
testosterone may result in sleep apnoea, infertility and it may also
the body to oestrogen and testosterone. dhea has long been
pose problems for prostate and breast cancer in men. Probably,
touted as an anti-ageing therapy, used to ward off chronic
patients with a family history of prostate or breast cancer should
illness and maintain energy and vigour. Proponents say it also
be cautioned. it can be taken in tablet form but many doctors
slows ageing, increases muscle and bone strength, burns fat,
say, that testosterone taken by this method may cause an
improves cognition and bolsters immunity. however, an october
unfavourable cholesterol profile thereby increasing the risk of
2006 study published in the New england journal of medicine
blood clots and heart and liver problems. several other types of
by sreekumaran Nair, md, an endocrinologist at mayo Clinic,
testosterone therapy exist. intramuscular testosterone injections
rochester, found no evidence that taking dhea reverses the
(delatestryl, depo-testosterone) are safe and effective. injections
effects of ageing. dhea is the most abundant naturally occurring
are given approximately every two weeks. a patch containing
hormone circulating in the human body. it is secreted by the
testosterone (androderm) is applied each night to your back,
adrenal glands and reaches its peak by the early twenties and
abdomen, upper arm or thigh. the site of the application is
then declines with age. the decline with age of dhea levels
rotated to maintain seven-day intervals between applications
correlates with many age-related changes, including peaking
to the same site to lessen skin reactions. in the uK, your GP can
at games, of muscle mass, of bone density, physical endurance
prescribe a testosterone gel (testoGel) to put on the skin of the
and ability to fight disease. the study shows significant beneficial
lower abdomen, upper arm or shoulder. i think it also comes in a
effects on any of those factors in men and women in their 60s
chewing gum form.
cosmeticnewsuk.com
41
Anti-Ageing | Medicine
THe GROWTH FACTOR many patients ask me about my attitudes regarding the increasing use of Growth hormone, i suppose my early tempered memories are prejudiced because of my time working as a young doctor in our lady's Children's hospital in dublin the late eighties when the news surfaced that the cadaver growth hormone they had been using was implicated in multiple cases of Creutzfeldt-jakob disease (Cjd). this spurned an interest in limb lengthening procedures in our orthopaedic department. the medicine was also used for children with kidney disease, turner’s syndrome, Prader-Willi syndrome and muscle wasting associated with aids and hiv. We knew that growth hormone caused growth in childhood and helped maintain tissue throughout our
many patients ask me about my attitudes regarding the increasing use of Growth hormone
life. We also know the level of growth hormone in our bodies begins to drop during midlife. in our 40s. studies of adults with growth hormone deficiencies show that injections of growth hormone can: increase bone density, increase muscle mass, decrease body fat, improve mood and motivation and increase exercise capacity. it’s not hard to see why people believe that synthetic growth hormone could help healthy older adults who have naturally low levels of growth hormone regain some of their youth and vitality. We do not have a lot of clinical data but most studies show that Growth hormone injections can increase muscle mass and reduce the amount of body fat in healthy older adults. it was not exactly clear whether they became stronger
or had increased mood. the studies pointed towards a number of side effects, including: swelling in the arms and legs, arthritis-like symptoms, carpal tunnel symptoms, headaches, muscle pain and worse still unfortunately diabetes, hardening of the arteries and high blood pressure. many patients also ask me whether hormones will restore the vitality of youth. i really hate to sound like a kill joy, especially as i am continually asked to speak at anti-ageing conferences and i realise that this part of medicine is in its infancy. i am also aware that the new science of nutrigenomics will become more important.
NUTRiGeNOmiCs
post-menopausal hormone replacement therapy also carries significant
Nutrigenomics is the study of the effects of foods and food
risks, including breast cancer and an increased risk of blood clots leading
constituents on gene expression. it is about how our DNA is
to heart disease and heart attack. however, unlike the other hormones
transcribed into mRNA and then to proteins and provides a basis
it has been the subject of extensive research and i have prescribed it
for understanding the biological activity of food components.
for many years and valued its benefit in treating mental alertness, hot
Throughout the 20th century, nutritional science focused on finding
flashes, vaginal dryness and poor skin. the real question is whether calorie
vitamins and minerals, defining their use and preventing the
restriction theory really applies to humans. i believe that the theory is
deficiency diseases that they caused. As the nutrition related health
based on studies in animals, including rats, mice, fish, flies and worms.
problems of the developed world shifted to over nutrition, obesity and type two diabetes, the focus of modern medicine and of nutritional science changed accordingly. in order to address the increasing incidence of these diet-relateddiseases, the role of diet and nutrition has been and continues to be extensively studied. To prevent the
Nutrigenomics is the study of the effects of foods and food constituents on gene expression
development of disease, nutrition
species could be extended by reducing the number of calories consumed. Clinical trials in humans tend to show that underweight people are more susceptible to disease and death. We would have to make sure that calorie-restricted diets were still rich in fruits and vegetables so that dieters still get the nutrients they need. to finish, i really think that ageing is a more complex process than presently perceived. it involves many aspects of tissue
research is investigating how nutrition
42
these studies found that the life span of each
function, most importantly genetic makeup
can optimise and maintain cellular, tissue, organ and whole body
and it's as yet unlikely that a pharmaceutical product can cure many of
homeostasis. This requires understanding how nutrients act at
the ills age can bring. that is not to say, we should not continue to chase
the molecular level. This involves a multitude of nutrient-related
the elixir of youth. i suspect things such as heavy exercise in later years
interactions at the gene, protein and metabolic levels. As a result,
may actually increase free oxide radicals and shorten life. any a&e
nutrition research has shifted from epidemiology and physiology to
officer will tell you about the number of myocardial infarctions brought
molecular biology and genetics and nutrigenomics was born.
in from badminton games, tennis games or even golf courses. others
the emergence and development of nutrigenomics has been possible
say that’s just what people do in retirement. that is not to say controlled
due to powerful developments in genetic research and this will continue
exercise is of course beneficial for cardiac disease. your best bet for a
to power this science. in essence, i would really love to see a hormonal
long and healthy life is to have the right parents, eating plenty of fruits
answer to stop the process of ageing but none of these supplements
and vegetables, maintain a healthy weight, exercise a little every day,
has sufficient medical evidence to back up the claims made by
don’t smoke, use sunscreen and laugh a lot…i suppose all the things
anti-ageing enthusiasts in view of the risks they carry. We all know that
that i don’t do.
cosmeticnewsuk.com
Best Practice | Economy
BOOm m ? t s u b R e aFt Roddy Kemp on what to do after a recession
t
here is a growing view that things are getting better, but the end of a recession is the most dangerous time. if it’s true that recovery has started, this will be the time when more businesses than ever go bankrupt. it will also be the time when businesses invest too early and the economy dips again, or invest too late and fail to be capitalise on customers out there spending money. so for anyone running a business, what should you do? How do you ride this part of the rollercoaster?
eCONOmiC PROsPeCTs Roddy Kemp is a strategic partner at Clarity smC, business builders for the medical industry, who advise, develop and implement business, sales, marketing and training programmes for organisations of all sizes. highly experienced in business strategy, roddy has run businesses for more than 20 years. he started his career with renault and worked in advertising for many years, advising clients as diverse as twinings tea, united Biscuits, Bayer, allianz Cornhill, motorola, the Football association, lilly, Baa and l’oreal. throughout his career he has specialised in the medical industry working with pharmaceutical companies, medical manufacturers, clinic groups and individual clinicians on a vast range of challenges. he passionately believes that for any business the key is to define a simple, honest, competitive proposition that is then single-mindedly taken through all its operations and communications.
this recession has been truly dreadful. only the fact that we have achieved such a high standard of living has meant that we haven’t witnessed queues outside soup kitchens. We have said for a long time that we believe it will be a long grind and that will continue through into the recovery phase. it could of course have been even worse with a full-scale depression. at least that looks to have been avoided. so is there going to be sustained economic growth in the uK? at this point the simple answer is nobody knows. it is dependent on too many factors. our view is that there is going to be some growth, but it is likely to be patchy favouring some sectors. hopefully it will gain momentum. at this point in an economic cycle anyone running a business needs to be monitoring what could derail growth or bring any recovery to a shuddering halt. this has to be viewed on the broadest ‘macro’ level, looking at both national and global economics. here are some of the biggest things to watch and react to if they appear to be going the wrong way: defaults by sovereign states around the world are a potential threat. Greece is looking decidedly stretched for example. We are still in a credit crunch. Banks are still not lending with any confidence and they still don’t trust each other. any instability in this arena will rebound on everyone and could make things worse very rapidly. the uK has amassed a massive debt recently that needs to be funded. We can’t just keep on spending. there are two obvious ways of doing this. spend less by cutting government programmes and/or raise taxes. these options could of course prompt a further recessionary dip, which is why politicians are being so cagey (a looming election doesn’t help either). linked to this is the fact that interest rates will have to go up, 1.5 per cent by the end of 2010 is an average prediction and three per cent by the end of 2011. they could rise much faster if inflation takes off or it becomes difficult to attract global funds to fund the debt. if they do we could be back in a recessionary spiral. an enormous financial impetus has been pumped into the uK economy. it appears likely that to a great extent it has not had much effect so far. When a government does something like this there is a big time lag. it’s like driving a super tanker. it takes ages to increase speed and as importantly it takes a long time to slow down. this investment in the economy may be too much and could provoke an inflationary spurt that then has to be damped down.
cosmeticnewsuk.com
45
Best Practice | Economy
Finally, just in case you are feeling too euphoric at this point, when looking to the future there is another concern that needs to be borne in mind. the global interlinking of economies and the management of investments on formulaic criteria is making many fearful that far from being banished, ‘boom and bust’ could become a much more common part of our economy and the global economy – an onomatopoeia future for economic planning if you like.
is THeRe A FUTURe? yes there is. For those who are smart, energetic and focused on delivering value and service to their customers there is always a future and it could be quite rosy. After all you’ve survived the recession haven’t you? Perhaps one of the best ways of understanding the future is to look at those businesses that aren’t going to be sharing in that future with us. the aesthetic medicine market appears to have survived well. there remains real interest in the market by customers and potential customers. those customers have become more discretionary though. From what we can see surgical procedures are down, but lower priced, less invasive procedures have remained popular and uptake may have increased.
THe lOseRs Quite a few businesses have left the market though. in our view they went for a whole myriad of reasons that are often interconnected; they didn’t have a real point of difference, they weren’t delivering value that customers could see clearly, they weren’t very committed and lost the will to keep going, they had spent too much money and were over indebted and they were late entrants to the market intent on riding the crest of a perceived wave. Perhaps all obvious risks, but that is what recessions do. They weed out the weak from the determined. this has been going on in lots of markets. Businesses that don’t really know why they are there and had little momentum in good times have been found out. Woolworths, Zavvi and Borders are obvious examples. Christian lacroix recently went bankrupt. one of the most extraordinary fashion designers who was revered by many, his business had never made money in any of the 22 years of its existence. When the financial backers went so did the business. it’s an extreme example but it does illustrate what is happening.
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THeRe HAVe BeeN WiNNeRs TOO Dominos Pizza, Primark and Premier inns have all done well out of this recession as have insolvency practitioners. For the latter group they are likely to be doing even better over the coming months. As i referred to at the beginning, more businesses go bust as a recession is coming to an end. They have hung on and find they finally have to give up as people start to spend again – galling for those who have struggled to survive to see the Promised land and as it appears they can’t be part of it. Winning in a recession can also mean higher margins and profits. majestic Wine for example realised that because people were eating in more they might be prepared to pay more for a bottle of wine. they have been pushing their premium ranges and introduced a minimum six bottle purchase rather than twelve. in the last six months its sales are up 13 per cent and profits nine per cent. they thought about their customer and won. they are also likely to have won a new generation of loyal customers because people who make a positive decision to buy from you in a recession are more loyal in the longer term – they made a positive, considered choice.
yOU WOUlDN’T WANT TO Be iN PACKAGeD GOODs in the packaged goods market times have been tough. sara lee, Colgate Palmolive and Kimberly-Clark have all reported revenues down. Unilever saw its profits fall 17% in its second quarter and Procter & Gamble produced an 18 per cent fall in profits in its most recent three month reporting cycle. That’s a fall in profits of $2.5 billion in a single quarter. in the midst of all this red one company, Reckitt Benckiser, has been doing rather well. in the last quarter its sales were up eight per cent and profits 14 per cent. unlike its competitors reckitt Benckiser has a very shallow hierarchy. it aims to have a new product on the shelf in nine months, three months quicker than its main competitors. it increased expenditure on marketing by 25 per cent as the recession took hold and maintained it. While taking pains to cater to all budgets it has been busy introducing premium products and increasing prices, while its competitors have been doing the opposite. Not only is reckitt Benckiser having a good recession, it is going to be in a very good place in the market and with its customers when the recovery finally comes.
HOW’s THe CUsTOmeR? Well they’ve changed and they haven’t. They still believe they will return to the standard of living and level of relaxed expenditure they were enjoying before they had to put their hair shirts on. They still like brands, celebrity and glamour and they still want to be made to feel special. it’s going to be with a bit more reality though. For everyone this recession has been shocking and made people re-evaluate what is important to them and their families. it has changed the way we buy things for ever. Perhaps most obviously access to credit is going to be more limited and more expensive and many more people will be positively avoiding debt. in the future demonstrating value is going to be even more important. Customer focused, brand driven organisations are going to be more successful than the introverted and product driven. Fluff and puff without substance is going to receive short shrift. increasing cynicism means personal recommendation is taking precedence over anything a company might promote. Companies are going to have to combat this with greater attention to corporate citizenship – it will motivate customers the team and suppliers. the internet is hugely powerful and has proven its worth in this recession. People rely on it more than ever to find the value they want. over the last 18 months we have all been doing a lot more experimenting and found different ways to run our lives from the middle-class family found in aldi to the phenomenon of e-bay.
WHAT TO DO AFTeR A ReCessiON We believe anyone running a business today should take all of the factors we have described into account and at the same time make sure you do the basics. These management rules will never go out of fashion, in a recession or out:
PROTeCT CAsH
iNNOVATe
you can make profit on paper, but if you have no cash in the business then it means nothing.
expanding what you offer gives you flexibility and makes you more interesting to your customer.
RemOVe WAsTe
iNVesT iN sAles & mARKeTiNG
this is the grind. you have to go through the detail, looking at all costs, and you have to do it regularly.
survival is about share of mind – you have to get more than your fair share. Familiarity breeds reassurance. it nurtures current customers. it creates urgency and conveys dynamism both to the team and external audiences. done well, it delivers handsome rewards in the long term.
mAKe FRieNDs When times are tough you need as many friends as you can get. they can range from your bitterest competitor to local leaders of any type, suppliers and most importantly the team around you.
UNDeRsTAND yOUR CUsTOmeR Find out what they are doing and how you fit into their lives. look at both current and potential customers – they can be very different. judge what they want and then ask them if you are right, either directly or via research.
DeFiNe WHAT yOU sTAND FOR What is it about your business that is different? that difference can become a brand if it’s aspirational, motivating, competitive and defensible. and what is so good when you have built a brand is that it conveys trust and reassurance, gives a business focus and personality, delivers security in bad times, makes price less important and businesses more saleable.
eNHANCe VAlUe FOR mONey value for money conveys reassurance and encourages people to come back and refer. in essence what it means is quality and service. As we have said before, in business it’s about remembering and applying simple principles. Anything too clever is normally too clever. People are the same in a recession, only more so. They want good value, presented well from someone they believe they can trust. your job is to stay in business to deliver that to them now and long into the future.
Bringing you the best in skin resurfacing technology with Hydrafacial™ With the ability to exfoliate, extract and rehydrate, the Hydrafacial™ system is is a new breakthrough in aesthetic technology. SkinBrands Limited have done the research to bring you brands at the top of their game. We have carefully selected products that really give results, offering our clients the best of the best. For more information on Hydrafacial or our other brands please visit: www.SkinBrands.co.uk T: +44 (0)20 8997 8541 E: info@SkinBrands.co.uk
Insurance | Professional Indemnity Insurance
iNsURANCe?
What insuRance? eddie Hooker, managing director of hamilton Fraser insurance, discusses the need for specific professional indemnity insurance for aesthetic and cosmetic practitioners
eddie Hooker is managing director of hamilton Fraser insurance. eddie and hamilton Fraser insurance first started to insure cosmetic practitioners as early as 1996 when they became involved with nurses practicing in collagen injections. hamilton Fraser launched the uK’s first ‘aesthetics specific’ medical indemnity policy in 1998 and now insure more than 2,000 individual practitioners and businesses within the sector, growing by more than100 new practitioners each and every month.
Aesthetic clinics are now commonplace
commercial insurance to protect yourself
refers to nurses (where they interact with non-
and attract a growing number of customers.
against claims for medical negligence.
rCN members e.g. a doctor prescribes the
As a result many anti-ageing and beauty enhancing procedures are becoming more and more accessible and affordable and are no longer reserved for the rich and famous. these market developments have brought significant opportunities for cosmetic practitioners, but alongside these opportunities come risk. We now live in an increasingly litigious society and every practitioner, regardless of
treatment) and cosmetic doctors acting outside
We now live in an increasingly litigious society and every practitioner, regardless of competency, is vulnerable to allegations of malpractice and wrong-doing.
competency, is vulnerable to allegations of
of their general practice work. the situation is complicated further by the rapid growth of new treatments and procedures available in the market, the increasing demand of patients and the now common ‘off-licence’ use of medicines and drugs currently registered as medical devices. if you are relying purely on mdo protection, ensure the cover is in place for all treatments you undertake e.g. mPs will not pick up claims for permanent fillers or laser skin
malpractice and wrong-doing.
meDiCAl DeFeNCe ORGANisATiONs
rejuventation (they will for iPl though).
accidents and errors of judgement can, and
medical Defence Organisations (mDOs),
there is also the confusion as to whether
do, happen in every profession. Fortunately,
such as the mPs/DDs, mDU and RCN
corporate providers are protected by mdo’s – if
these occurrences, despite occasional and
provide an excellent service to the medical
you are running a purely private practice, the
sensational media reports, are relatively rare in
profession – they offer medical guidance,
legal entity must be protected – so it is therefore
the medical profession – and any subsequent
help in disciplinary matters and assist in
important that you check your subscription
claims are usually settled quickly and with
medical inquests and inquiries, for example.
terms and conditions if your business is relying on
comparatively little costs.
However, some mDOs, such as the mPs, do
this support in the event of a serious incident.
not offer medical malpractice insurance however, in the most severe incidents, the
as such – rather they offer ‘assistance with
increases in the frequency and severity of claims
consequences for the practitioner can be
claims’ and use the subscriptions paid
have now forced many mdo’s to arrange
serious – both financially and professionally.
by their members to fund the defence or
insurance for their members in the commercial
even if it appears that there is no case to
financial awards of suits brought against
sector in order to protect their organisation with
answer, the claim must still be defended. that’s
their members. This assistance is usually on a
‘ground-up’ insurance. this has enabled mdo’s
why it is advisable to have specific professional
purely discretionary basis. Whilst this may be
to offer different levels of membership with
liability insurance.
seen as a form of insurance, the extent of
practitioners in higher risk areas of specialisation
the cover they provide can sometimes be
paying the highest subscriptions. For cosmetic
restrictive.
and aesthetic practitioners, these increased
if you are a doctor or dentist working in either the Nhs or private sector, you may be
48
levels of subscription can prove expensive for
able to rely on support from your defence
it isn’t clear whether mdos will offer ‘assistance’
the small amount of work they undertake and
organisation. however, if you are a practitioner
in cases involving certain cosmetic and
therefore more and more practitioners are
involved in supplementary or complimentary
aesthetic procedures. this is certainly the case
turning to commercial malpractice for their
practice, you may need to arrange
with regards to most dentists and increasingly
cosmetic work.
cosmeticnewsuk.com
Increases in the frequency and severity of claims have now forced many MDO’s to arrange insurance for their members in the commercial sector in order to protect their organisation with ‘ground-up’ insurance.
underwriter to insure certain procedures and treatments that would normally fall outside of the province of an MDO. For many practitioners, the flexibility of being able to ‘off-load’ the higher risk treatments in their portfolio to a commercial insurer, whilst retaining MDO membership for their more generalised practice, provides the best of both worlds. Policies are written on an individual basis, which allows for personal circumstances to be taken into consideration. For example,
PROFESSIONAL LIABILITY INSURANCE
a practitioner doing a few treatments per week will generally pay less
Professional liability insurance responds to claims arising from
than a full time cosmetic business. A practitioner undertaking evasive
bodily injury, which may include its more intangible forms such
treatments will pay more than a practitioner providing botulinium toxin
as mental injury, distress or psychological harm. The injury can
and dermal filler treatments and so on and so forth. The ‘one size fits all
arise from treatment or advice or from a combination of the two. In
approach’ is effectively removed.
addition, cover is provided for financial loss arising from the injury. As most medical professionals give treatments rather than advice
But you should always research what you are buying as not all policies
or give a mixture of the two, there must be bodily injury in order to
provide the same level of protection. A policy such as ours at Hamilton
trigger a claim.
Fraser is designed specifically for cosmetic and aesthetic practitioners. Treatments specifically insured are stated on the schedule so there
Professional liability policies are legal contracts and, subject to you
will never be any doubt as to what work is covered and what is not.
following the terms and conditions of the policy wording, the policy
In addition, helpful extensions such as products liability (cover for
must respond in the event of a claim. Insurance companies are in the
product failure rather than practitioner malpractice), disciplinary legal
business of taking risks and ultimately most risks can be underwritten for
expenses and corporate manslaughter are included free of charge
a certain premium. The premium is dependant on many factors but
for most policyholders.
predominantly on the underwriters view as to whether he can make money from insuring that risk and so we come to the crux of the matter. The difference between a commercial policy and the membership of an MDO is that a commercial policy is designed to make a financial return for the underwriter. This important difference allows an
You should always research what you are buying as not all policies provide the same level of protection
professional depigmentation
method formerly amelan
cosmelan
Cosmelan treatment is designed to attenuate and or eliminate blemishes of melanic origin. Our successful acknowledged formula gives you a very high safety margin during depigmentation process with 95% proven efficacy. The unique Cosmelan formula adapted to the aesthetics professional needs manages to achieve results similar to medical treatments causing a fast depigmentation action with moderate exfoliation effect. The Cosmelan method may be started at any time during the year with total guarantee and safety.
Training now available.
Te l 0 1 6 1 9 7 6 4 6 1 4 www.wellnesstrading.co.uk
Business Focus | Websites
NeT PROFiT t
the wonder of websites
here are now more than 18 million households in the uK with internet access, a leap of just under two million in the past year. most of them (90 per cent) have broadband access and, research has shown, that around 80 per cent of internet users would choose a company with a website over one without. all of which means that, if you don’t have a good website, or if it can’t easily be found, then you are potentially missing out on a huge amount of new business. CHOOsiNG yOUR imAGe Quite simply, a great website is one that your potential clients will love. One that will attract their attention and actively encourage them to explore it, and which will help them to find the information
they need, quickly and easily. However, with the millions of sites that are out there, achieving all this is not that easy, so here are a few simple guidelines... Firstly, you need to ensure that the design of your website is in keeping with that of your practice image and all your other practice marketing materials. that said, it shouldn’t just be an online version of your brochure – these days, that simply isn’t enough to capture the attention of internet users. instead, you need to take advantage of some of the latest and best techniques, and catch the eye of even the most jaded of web surfers. these days, most sites benefit from moving images on their home page – an animation or a video, for example, but don’t overdo it – too many moving images just look cluttered and offputting. also make sure that people are not forced to watch something before they can start using the site – in other words, if you have an introductory video or animation, always include an option to skip past it.
50
cosmeticnewsuk.com
videos are gaining in popularity, but these need to follow
basics that search engines look for, such as key words. if
certain guidelines to be worth the investment. don’t
you are in a relatively uncompetitive area (either in terms
make them too long – most people will get bored and
of your specialty or the geographic region in which you
move on. make them interesting, with good ‘sound-bites’
work), this is probably all you will need. if you are in a
– short and snappy quotes rather than long monologues.
more competitive area however, such as ‘face-lifts in
try including more than one person – patient testimonials
london’, then you will need to invest in the ongoing
are perfect for the aesthetic medical sector. and don’t
services of search engine optimisation experts to help
try filming your own – you need a professional video that
ensure you consistently remain high in search engine
accurately reflects your professional standing.
results.
the internet is one of the most powerful marketing tools at your disposal. used well, it can generate new clients far more cost-effectively than any other form of paid-for advertising
if the very thought of seo leaves you shaking your head in utter confusion, don’t despair – we plan to take the mystery out of it and explain all that bewildering terminology in an article later this year. search engine marketing is another way of ensuring your site is easy to find. this can take many different forms, but one of the most popular ones is pay-perclick advertising, which puts your website in with the sponsored links on search engine results. again, we’ll take a more in-depth, easy-to-understand look at this later this year.
your website will need to contain text, or copy. Keep
WHAT TO DO ONCe yOU HAVe A WeBsiTe
the main text as short and snappy as you can and, to
Unfortunately, the answer to this is not to sit back
achieve the best results, use a professional copywriter.
and wait for the phone to ring! you need to make as
if you want your site to be informative as well as a
many people as possible aware of its existence by
marketing tool, then keep the first one or two levels of
including the address on all your printed materials,
your site (i.e. the ones you only need to click once or
on your emails and on your adverts. you also need
twice to reach) short and simple, with the more detailed
to make patients aware of it so they can use it as a
and informative pages easily available for those who
source of reference, and so they can point friends and
want to explore further.
family in its direction.
these informative pages can be particularly useful for
ideally, you should regularly update it with news
explaining your procedures in more depth, including
about your practice and your services. this keeps it
potential complications and side-effects and for
fresh and interesting, and it also helps with search
providing aftercare instructions.
engine optimisation.
do make sure that you have your website designed
if all goes well, you will receive e-mail enquiries from your
by professionals, preferably those with experience in
site. you need to respond to these as soon as you can
marketing as well as web design. a great website doesn’t
(within reason) – people who use e-mails generally tend
just rely on one area of expertise – it needs technical
to expect prompt replies. you should also keep track of
skills so it works properly and complies with international
all the enquiries you receive, in the form of a database.
rules and regulations; design expertise for both the layout
While this will be small to start with, it will soon become a
of the site and the way each page looks; and a good
valuable marketing tool that you can use in the future.
command of marketing knowledge to help ensure that
do make sure, however, that you comply with the data
people get in touch with you rather than just clicking
Protection act.
through to another site. the internet is without doubt one of the most powerful
mAKiNG yOUR WeBsiTe eAsy TO FiND
marketing tools at your disposal. used well, it can
There is little point in having a fantastic website if no
generate new clients far more cost-effectively than any
one can find it! you need to make sure that when
other form of paid-for advertising and can become a
potential clients search for you and your services,
huge asset to your business.
they can find you. This means ensuring that the search engines i.e. Google, yahoo and so on include you relatively high up in their search results.
Hilary Ford is one of three directors at Blue horizons. she has been working in marketing for almost 20 years,
this is what search engine optimisation is all about
in a wide range of sectors including luxury yachts,
– making sure your website can attract and keep
call centre recruitment and, for the last eight years,
the attention of the search engines. this is usually not
the dental and medical sector in the uK and europe.
something you would want to do yourself, it really is best
Blue horizons offers a full range of marketing services,
left to the experts. the main thing is to ensure that your site
including patient welcome packs, treatment leaflets,
is built with seo in mind, in other words, that it includes the
websites and consultancy.
Company Profile | Boston Medical Group Limited
BOsTON meDiCAl gRouP LimiteD
We find out what 2010 has in store for Boston medical Group
T
raining is also an integral part of the company’s philosophy and as such it provides full, recognised training for its products, either at its training
facility in london or at the client’s clinic/practice. in addition, miss iveta vinklerova Bsc, has now joined the team as senior product specialist to help customers with all enquires related to the revanesse and redexis range. lATesT VeNTURe Boston medical Group’s latest venture is into the dermal fillers market introducing revanesse and redexis to the uK and ireland. manufactured by Prollenium medical technologies inc., Canada, the products are already available in 58 countries worldwide and are Ce marked. Fda approval is expected 2010. the products incorporate the latest
Boston medical Group limited was founded in 2007 to provide a range of aesthetic products to medical practices. the company’s mission is to ‘achieve recognised excellence through quality, reliability and customer service’. the company prides itself on distributing products that are backed by strong research and evidence and has successfully launched a number of products into the uK and irish market including viscoderm, an oral, topical and intradermal Biorevitalisation treatment system and dermaroller.
advancements in cross-linking technology, making them high quality, safe and long lasting. the hyaluronic acid utilised in the products is also naturally integrated into the tissue, keeping the skin looking healthy and natural. the key ingredient in redexis – positively charged dextranomer beads – is made of biocompatible cross-linked glucose molecules. these beads attract negatively charged glycosaminoglycans and elastin (soft tissue) to the injection site to help form new collagen. they then begin to bind together, forming a scaffold of new collagen. this
PRODUCT OVeRVieW
ReVANesse PURe
ReVANesse UlTRA
ReDeXis
revanesse Pure is a biodegradable, non-animal
revanesse ultra is a high viscosity, biodegradable,
redexis is a biodegradable, non-animal-based,
based, non cross-linked, clear hyaluronic acid gel.
non-animal based, clear hyaluronic acid gel made
hyaluronic acid gel with a unique ingredient -
With its hygroscopic properties revanesse Pure
using Prollenium’s patented cross-linking process.
dextranomer beads – which gives it the ability
hydrates the skin and restores elasticity for firm,
this process creates a thicker, longer lasting gel
to generate new tissue. these fully absorbable
healthy looking skin.
that improves the ability to treat deep and more
dextranomer beads create a scaffolding effect
pronounced lines and wrinkles such as nasolabial
for collagen growth. the positive charge of the
folds and oral commissures.
beads enables them to attract naturally occurring, negatively charged, collagen and elastin. the collagen and elastin then bind together, providing natural augmentation which lasts even after the ha has been broken down. redexis is safe, effective, and ideal for treating deep wrinkles and folds. ReDeXis UlTRA redexis ultra is fully absorbable, high viscosity dermal filler for subcutaneous injection and is
ReVANesse
52
designed for creating and shaping facial contours.
revanesse is a biodegradable, non-animal based,
ReVANesse liPs
this non-animal based, hyaluronic acid gel utilizes
clear hyaluronic acid gel, which is best used to fill
the unique and delicate properties of the lips
the unique properties of dextranomer beads for
superficial imperfections in the dermis such as fine
require a specially formulated dermal filler to ensure
collagen production. its long lasting results are ideal
lines, forehead wrinkles, crow’s feet, peri-orbital lines
good results. revanesse lips has been specifically
for creating or restoring lost volume in areas such as
and glabellar lines.
engineered for lip augmentation and definition.
the cheeks and the chin. an increased amount of
cosmeticnewsuk.com
new collagen will stay at the injection site, providing natural augmentation long after the ha has been broken down and absorbed. the end result is increased volume to the injection site and a longer lasting and more natural look than traditional fillers. since there are many hyaluronic acid based fillers on the market, the company is keen to point out what makes these products so different. the answer, it says, lies in the unique formula and patented thixofix cross-linking technology, which allows a highly viscous gel to be injected easily through a fine gauge needle without causing degradation to the modified ha particles. many other ha fillers require more of the cross-linking agent Bdde and can lead to higher incidences of adverse reactions (such as swelling) and decreased durability in the skin. thixofix technology requires less Bdde and as such ‘dangling’ and ineffective links are minimised. this technology also means that the products are easy to inject. the syringe has been designed to include extra wide finger flanges and broadened pistons that provide much greater ease of use. eFFeCTiVe liNKs DANGliNG (PARTiAlly ReACTeD liNKs) iNeFFeCTiVe iNTeRNAl liNKs
dextranomer beads (50 mg/ml) ensures maximum collagen production at the injection site for enduring results of up to 24 months.
ReVANesse CONTOUR revanesse Contour is a fully absorbable, high viscosity, clear hyaluronic acid gel specially formulated for face shaping and volumising.
Tel: 0207 727 1110 e-mail: info@boston-medical-group.co.uk Web: www.boston-medical-group.co.uk
cosmeticnewsuk.com
53
Dates FoR the DiaRY February 1 CQC Compliance Workshop, www.lcsacademy.co.uk 1 Interventional Cosmetics Symposium, Royal Society of Medicine, London, www.rsm.ac.uk 4 Wigmore Medical Training Sculptra, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 10 Wigmore Medical Training Introduction to Skincare Peels and Derma Roller, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 11 Wigmore Medical Training Introduction to Botulinum Toxin Type A, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 12 Wigmore Medical Training Introduction to Fillers, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 17 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Refresher Course, www.drbobkhanna.com 20-21 Spa and Resort/Medical Aesthetics Conference and Expo, Los Angeles, www.spaandresortexpo.com 20-21 International Association for Physicians in Aesthetic Medicine (IAPAM) Aesthetic Medicine Symposium, Arizona, www.iapam.com 22 CQC Compliance Workshop, www.lcsacademy.co.uk 23 Laser/IPL Safety Core of Knowledge, www.lcsacademy.co.uk 23 Mapperley Park Core of Knowledge Laser Training, Nottingham, www.mapperleypark.co.uk/training 24 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Chemical Peels, www.drbobkhanna.com 24 Laser / IPL Protection Supervisor Training, www.lcsacademy.co.uk 24 Wigmore Medical Training NeoStrata Peels, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 25 Wigmore Medical Training Advanced Toxin Techniques, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 26 Dr Brian Franks Facial Aesthetics and Facial Aesthetic Training Courses Botulinum Toxin Refresher Course (Vistabel and Azzalure), jan@drbrianfranks.com 27 Cosmetic Courses Foundation Botulinum Toxin & Dermal Filler Training, The National Training Centre, Buckinghamshire, www.cosmeticcourses.co.uk 27 Foundation Botox and Dermal Fillers Training Course, www.thelawrenceaestheticacademy.co.uk 27 FaceTec+ Training Introduction to Botulinum Toxin Type A, venue TBC, www.facetec.info 27 Genuine Dermaroller™ Medical Device Training, London, www.genuinedermaroller.co.uk 27 Dr Brian Franks Facial Aesthetics and Facial Aesthetic Training Courses: Introduction to Botulinum Toxin Type A, Watford, jan@drbrianfranks.com 28 Dr Brian Franks Facial Aesthetics and Facial Aesthetic Training Courses: Introduction to Dermal Fillers, Watford, jan@drbrianfranks.com 28 FaceTec+ Training Introduction to Dermal Fillers, venue TBC, www.facetec.info
March 2-3 BTEC Professional Certificate: Medical Laser and IPL, www.lcsacademy.co.uk 5-9 American Academy of Dermatology Annual Meeting, Miami, www.aad.org/meetings/annual/ 6 Cosmetic Courses Chemical Peel & Skin Analysis Training, The National Training Centre, Buckinghamshire www.cosmeticcourses.co.uk 7-8 Professional Beauty London 2010, www.professionalbeauty.co.uk 8-10 Anti-Ageing Medicine World Congress, Monte Carlo, www.euromedicom.com 12 British Association of Dermatologists and the Royal College of Physicians Medical Dermatology meeting, Royal College of Physicians, London, www.bad.org.uk 12-14 British Society for Dermatological Surgery (BSDS) Annual Surgery Workshop, Dublin, www.bsds.org.uk 13 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Oral Facial, www.drbobkhanna.com 14 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Advanced Dermal Filler, www.drbobkhanna.com 15-18 BTEC Professional Award: Aesthetic Laser & IPL Therapies, www.lcsacademy.co.uk 18 Mapperley Park Core of Knowledge Laser Training, Nottingham, www.mapperleypark.co.uk/training 19-20 Aesthetic Dentist Conference 2010, NEC Birmingham, www.thedentistryshow.co.uk 19 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Beginner Botulinum Toxin, www.drbobkhanna.com
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cosmeticnewsuk.com
We round up upcoming events, training courses and meetings
19-20 The Dentistry Show 2010, NEC Birmingham, www.thedentistryshow.co.uk 20 Cosmetic Courses Foundation Botulinum Toxin & Dermal Filler Training, The National Training Centre, Buckinghamshire, www.cosmeticcourses.co.uk 20 British Association of Cosmetic Doctors (BACD) Spring Meeting, Royal College of Physicians, London, www.cosmeticdoctors.co.uk 20 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Advanced Botulinum Toxin, www.drbobkhanna.com 21 International Academy of Cosmetic Dermatology World Congress, Cairo, www.iacdworld.org 21 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Beginners Dermal Filler, www.drbobkhanna.com 22 Care Quality Commission (CQC) Registration and Compliance, www.lcsacademy.co.uk 22-25 18 Mapperley Park BTEC Principles of laser and light based Hair removal and photorejuvenation, Nottingham, www. mapperleypark.co.uk/training 22-27 American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS) Annual Meeting, Washington DC, www.surgery.org 26 Dr Brian Franks Facial Aesthetics and Facial Aesthetic Training Courses Dermal Fillers Refresher Course, jan@drbrianfranks.com 26-27 British Cosmetic Dermatology Group, Hilton, London Paddington 27 FaceTec+ Training Introduction to Botulinum Toxin Type A, www.facetec.info 27 Foundation Botox and Dermal Fillers Training Course, Manchester, www.thelawrenceaestheticacademy.co.uk 27 Advance Botox and Dermal Filler Training Course, Manchester, www.thelawrenceaestheticacademy.co.uk 27 Dr Brian Franks Facial Aesthetics and Facial Aesthetic Training Courses: Introduction to Botulinum Toxin Type A, Watford, jan@ drbrianfranks.com 28 Dr Brian Franks Facial Aesthetics and Facial Aesthetic Training Courses: Introduction to Dermal Fillers, Watford, jan@drbrianfranks.com 28 FaceTec+ Training Introduction to Dermal Fillers, www.facetec.info 29 One Day Combined Botox and Dermal Filler Course Foundation Level www.inspiredcosmetictraining.com 30 British Society for Investigative Dermatology, Annual Meeting, Royal Agricultural College, Cirencester, www.bad.org.uk
april 1 British Society for Investigative Dermatology, Annual Meeting, Royal Agricultural College, Cirencester, www.bad.org.uk 2 One Day Combined Botox and Dermal Filler Course Foundation Level www.inspiredcosmetictraining.com 8 Wigmore Medical Training Sculptra, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 10 Cosmetic Courses Advanced Botulinum Toxin & Dermal Filler Training, The National Training Centre, Buckinghamshire www.cosmeticcourses.co.uk 10 Innomed Training Botulinum Toxin in Facial Aesthetics – New Users, Southampton, www.innomedtraining.co.uk 11 Innomed Training Dermal Fillers – New Users, Southampton, www.innomedtraining.co.uk 13 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Oral Facial, www.drbobkhanna.com 14 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Advanced Dermal Filler, www.drbobkhanna.com 16-17 Cosmetic News Expo 2010, Business Design Centre, Islington, London, www.cosmeticnewsuk.com 16 Dr Brian Franks Facial Aesthetics and Facial Aesthetic Training Courses Botulinum Toxin Refresher Course (Vistabel and Azzalure), jan@drbrianfranks.com 17 Dr Brian Franks Facial Aesthetics and Facial Aesthetic Training Courses: Introduction to Botulinum Toxin Type A, Watford, jan@drbrianfranks.com 18 Dr Brian Franks Facial Aesthetics and Facial Aesthetic Training Courses: Introduction to Dermal Fillers, Watford, jan@drbrianfranks.com 19 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Beginners Botulinum Toxin, www.drbobkhanna.com 20 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Advanced Botulinum Toxin, www.drbobkhanna.com 20-22 LCS Academy BTEC Professional Certificate: Medical Laser and IPL, www.lcsacademy.co.uk 20 One Day Combined Botox and Dermal Filler Course Foundation Level, www.inspiredcosmetictraining.com 21 Dr Bob Khanna Training Institute, Beginners Dermal Filler,
www.drbobkhanna.com 21 Wigmore Medical Training Introduction to Skincare Peels and Derma Roller, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 22 Wigmore Medical Training Introduction to Botulinum Toxin Type A, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 23 Wigmore Medical Training Introduction to Fillers, London, www. wigmoremedical.com 24 Foundation Botox and Dermal Filler training Course - combined one full day, Birmingham, www.thelawrenceaestheticacademy.co.uk 24 Cosmetic Courses Foundation Botulinum Toxin & Dermal Filler Training, The National Training Centre, Buckinghamshire www.cosmeticcourses.co.uk 24 Advance Botox and Dermal Filler Training Course, combined one full day, Birmingham, www.thelawrenceaestheticacademy.co.uk 24 Med-fx Sculptra Training, London, www.medfxtraining.co.uk 24 Chemical Peel half day training course, Birmingham, www.thelawrenceaestheticacademy.co.uk 24 Innomed Training Chemical Peeling Systems – New Users, London, www.innomedtraining.co.uk 24 27 Genuine Dermaroller™ Medical Device Training, Manchester, www.genuinedermaroller.co.uk 25 Innomed Training Mesotherapy for Fat, Cellulite and Skin Rejuvenation – New Users, London, www.innomedtraining.co.uk 27 Wigmore Medical Training NeoStrata Peels, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 29 LCS Academy Core of Knowledge, www.lcsacademy.co.uk
www.cosmeticnewsuk.com May 3 One Day Combined Botox and Dermal Filler Course Foundation Level www.inspiredcosmetictraining.com 4 One Day Combined Botox and Dermal Filler Course Foundation Level www.inspiredcosmetictraining.com 4 LCS Academy Practical Guide to Contraindications for Light Based Therapies, www.lcsacademy.co.uk 6-8 Laser Europe, Tarragona, Spain, www.lasereurope2010.com 7 One Day Combined Botox and Dermal Filler Course Foundation Level, www.inspiredcosmetictraining.com 8 One Day Combined Botox and Dermal Filler Course Foundation Level, www.inspiredcosmetictraining.com 10 LCS Academy Laser / IPL Protection Supervisor Training, www.lcsacademy.co.uk 12 Wigmore Medical Training NeoStrata Peels, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 13-16 EADV Spring Symposium, Croatia, www.eadvcavtat2010.com 15 Innomed Training Chemical Peeling Systems – New Users, London, www.innomedtraining.co.uk 16 Innomed Training Mesotherapy for Fat, Cellulite and Skin Rejuvenation – New Users, London, www.innomedtraining.co.uk 18-19 LCS Academy BTEC Professional Certificate: Medical Laser and IPL, www.lcsacademy.co.uk 19 Wigmore Medical Training Introduction to Skincare Peels and Derma Roller, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 20 Wigmore Medical Training Introduction to Botulinum Toxin Type A, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 21 Wigmore Medical Training Introduction to Fillers, London, www.wigmoremedical.com 21 Dr Brian Franks Facial Aesthetics and Facial Aesthetic Training Courses Botulinum Toxin Refresher Course (Vistabel and Azzalure), jan@drbrianfranks.com 21-23 The Aesthetics Show, Las Vegas, www.miinews.com/aesthetic/ 22 Dr Brian Franks Facial Aesthetics and Facial Aesthetic Training Courses: Introduction to Botulinum Toxin Type A, Watford, jan@drbrianfranks.com • If you have any dates you would like to add to our Dates for the Diary section please email vicky@creativemedialtd.co.uk •
COMFORT, CONFIDENCE, HEALTH & HEALING
MACOM is the premier UK provider of quality compression apparel. The compression garments offer comfort, confidence, and optimum conditions for healing and health to every customer in response to their individual preferences and requirements. MACOM products are ideal post surgery, during pregnancy, post delivery, for body shaping, and for burn treatments. They provide targeted support, facilitate post operative lymphatic drainage, accelerate the healing process, minimize scarring, and produce the appearance of a slimmer waistline. The garments are all made of breathable, non-allergenic material; they are seamless and complete with adjustable fastenings ensuring optimal comfort. All products are 100% latex free. Very competitive wholesale prices available. Quote CNM for a further 10% Discount*
To order please visit www.macom-medical.com or call 020 7386 0011 *offer valid until 31 March ‘10
with confidence Face the future
zalure® is the new choice of tulinum Toxin Type A for sthetic use.
with confidence
ast onset of action (median time to nset 2-3 days)1
ong duration of action (up to 5 months)1
Azzalure® is the new choice of igh level of patient satisfaction (93% after Botulinum Toxin Type A for months, following one treatment session)2 aesthetic use. • Fast onset of action (median time to onset 2-3 days)1
re® is indicated for the temporary improvement in the appearance of • Long duration of action (up to 5 months)1 ate to severe glabellar lines seen at frown, in adult patients under 65 when the severity of these has an important psychological • High levellines of patient satisfaction (93% after on the patient. 2
New...
6 months, following one treatment session)
... aesthetic choice New...
® Azzalure is indicated for the temporary improvement in the appearance of e® Abbreviated Prescribing Information moderate severe lines seen at frown, adult patients under 65 Effects: Most frequently occurring related reactions are headache and injection site Side tation: Botulinum toxintotype A (glabellar Clostridium botulinum toxin Ainhaemagglutinin years, when the severity of these lines has (powder an important psychological reactions. Generally treatment/injection technique related reactions occur within first week x) 10 Speywood units/0.05ml of reconstituted solution for solution for impact on the patient. following injection and are transient and of mild to moderate severity and reversible. Very n). Indications: Temporary improvement in appearance of moderate to severe r lines seen at frown, in adult patients under 65 years, when severity of these lines Common (≥ 1/10): Headache, Injection site reactions (e.g. erythema, oedema, irritation, mportant psychological impact on the patient. Dosage & Administration: Botulinum rash, pruritus, paraesthesia, pain, discomfort, stinging and bruising). Common (≥ 1/100 to its are different depending on the medicinal products. Speywood units are specific < 1/10): Facial paresis (predominantly describes brow paresis), Asthenopia, Ptosis, Eyelid preparation and are not interchangeable with other botulinum toxins. Reconstitute oedema, Lacrimation increase, Dry eye, Muscle twitching (twitching of muscles around the injection. Intramuscular injections should be performed at right angles to the skin eyes). Uncommon (≥ 1/1,000 to <1/100): Dizziness, Visual disturbances, Vision blurred, sterile 29-30 gauge needle. Recommended dose is 50 Speywood units (0.25 ml of Diplopia, Pruritus, Rash, Hypersensitivity. Rare (≥ 1/10,000 to < 1/1,000): Eye movement tuted solution) divided® Abbreviated equally intoPrescribing 5 injection Information sites: 2 injections into each corrugator disorder, Urticaria. Packaging Quantities & Cost: 1 Vial (125u) £64.00 (RRP). Marketing Azzalure Side Effects: Most occurring reactions headache and injection site toxin the typenasofrontal A (Clostridium botulinum toxin A haemagglutinin Authorisation Number: PLfrequently 06958/0031. Legalrelated Category: POM.are Full Prescribing Information and one intoPresentation: the procerusBotulinum muscle near angle. (See summary of reactions. treatment/injection techniqueHouse, related69-71 reactions occur within firstWatford, week complex) Speywood units/0.05ml of reconstituted solution (powder for solution for is Available From:Generally Galderma (UK) Limited, Meridien Clarendon Road, characteristics for full10technique). Treatment interval should not be more frequent following injection). Temporary in under appearance of moderate are(0)transient and of mild moderate andDate reversible. Very Herts. WD17 1DS,injection UK. Tel:and +44 1923 208950 ery three months. Not Indications: in individuals 18 years of age. to severe +44 (0) 1923severity 208998. of Revision: Fax: to recommended for useimprovement lines seen at frown, in adult patients under 65 years, when severity of these lines Common (≥ 1/10): Headache, Injection site reactions (e.g. erythema, oedema, irritation, ndications: Inglabellar individuals with hypersensitivity to botulinum toxin A or to any of the March 2009. Copyright © 2009 Galderma (UK) Ltd. has an important psychological impact on the patient. Dosage & Administration: Botulinum rash, pruritus, paraesthesia, pain, discomfort, stinging and bruising). Common (≥ 1/100 to nts. In the presence of infection at depending the proposed myasthenia toxin units are different on theinjection medicinalsites, products. Speywoodgravis, units are specific < 1/10): Facial paresis (predominantly describes brow paresis), forms Asthenopia, Adverse events should be reported. Reporting andPtosis, Eyelid Lambert Syndrome or Amyotrophic lateral sclerosis. Special warnings and to this preparation and are not interchangeable with other botulinum toxins. Reconstitute information oedema, Lacrimation Dry eye, Muscle twitching (twitching of muscles around the can beincrease, found at www.yellowcard.gov.uk. Adverse events ions for use:prior Usetowith caution in patients with a risk of, or clinical evidence of, injection. Intramuscular injections should be performed at right angles to the skin eyes). Uncommon (≥ also 1/1,000 <1/100): Dizziness, Visual(UK) disturbances, Vision blurred, should betoreported to Galderma Ltd. using a sterile 29-30 gauge needle. is 50 Speywoodat units defective neuro-muscular transmission, inRecommended the presencedose of inflammation the(0.25 ml of Diplopia, Pruritus, Rash, Hypersensitivity. Rare (≥ 1/10,000 to < 1/1,000): Eye movement reconstituted solution) equally into 5 injection sites: 2 injections into each weakness orcorrugator disorder, Urticaria. Packaging Quantities & Cost: 1 Vial (125u) £64.00 (RRP). Marketing ed injection site(s) or when the divided targeted muscle shows excessive Authorisation Number: PL 06958/0031. Legal Category: POM. Full Prescribing Information musclewith and one into the procerus muscle near the nasofrontal angle.muscle (See summary of . Patients treated therapeutic doses may experience exaggerated References is Available From: Galderma (UK) Limited, Meridien House, 69-71 Clarendon Road, Watford, product characteristics for full technique). Treatment interval should not be more frequent ® ss. Not recommended in patients with history of dysphagia, aspiration or with 1. Azzalure Summary of Product Characteristics. Herts. WD17 1DS, UK. Tel: +44 (0) 1923 208950 Fax: +44 (0) 1923 208998. Date of Revision: than every three months. Not recommended for use in individuals under 18 years of age. ed bleeding time. Seek immediate medical care if swallowing, speech or respiratory 2. Ascher B et al. J Acad Dermatol 2004; 51: March 2009.Am Copyright © 2009 Galderma (UK)223-33. Ltd. Contraindications: In individuals with hypersensitivity to botulinum toxin A or to any of the ies arise. Facial asymmetry, ptosis, excessive scarring any gravis, excipients. In the presence of infection dermatochalasis, at the proposed injection sites,and myasthenia ® Adverse events should be reported. Reporting forms and is a registered trademark of Galderma. ons to facial anatomy, as a result of previous surgical interventions should be taken Eaton Lambert Syndrome or Amyotrophic lateral sclerosis. Special warningsAzzalure and information can be found at www.yellowcard.gov.uk. Adverse events precautions for use: Use with in patients with a risk of, ordoses clinical evidence of, sideration prior to injection. Injections at caution more frequent intervals/higher can should also be reported to Galderma (UK) Ltd. marked formation. defective neuro-muscular transmission, in the presenceneurotoxins of inflammation at theof preparation: April 2009 e the risk of antibody Avoid administering different botulinum Date weakness or proposed injection site(s) or when the targeted muscle shows excessive he course of treatment with Azzalure. Contains human albumin, risk of transmission AZZ/11/0409 Patients treated with therapeutic doses may experience exaggerated muscle References ection cannotatrophy. be excluded. To be used for one single patient treatment only during weakness. Not recommended in patients with history of dysphagia, aspiration or with 1. Azzalure® Summary of Product Characteristics. session. Interactions: Concomitant treatment with aminoglycosides or other agents prolonged bleeding time. Seek immediate medical care if swallowing, speech or respiratory 2. Ascher B et al. J Am Acad Dermatol 2004; 51: 223-33. ng with neuromuscular transmission (e.g. curare-like agents)dermatochalasis, may potentiate effect scarring and any difficulties arise. Facial asymmetry, ptosis, excessive inum toxin. Pregnancy &facial Lactation: Not be used duringsurgical pregnancy or lactation. alterations to anatomy, asto a result of previous interventions should be taken Azzalure® is a registered trademark of Galderma.
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into consideration prior to injection. Injections at more frequent intervals/higher doses can increase the risk of antibody formation. Avoid administering different botulinum neurotoxins during the course of treatment with Azzalure. Contains human albumin, risk of transmission of an infection cannot be excluded. To be used for one single patient treatment only during a single session. Interactions: Concomitant treatment with aminoglycosides or other agents interfering with neuromuscular transmission (e.g. curare-like agents) may potentiate effect of botulinum toxin. Pregnancy & Lactation: Not to be used during pregnancy or lactation.
Date of of Preparation: preparation:December April 20092009 AZZ/11/0409 AZZ/80/1209
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