Topman SS15 Zine by Topman Philippines

THE FILM ISSUE

THE

FILM

ISSUE

Starring Jack O’Connell Douglas Booth Bill Skarsgärd Ana Lily Amirpour Richard Ayoade Logan Lerman Spring/Summer trends Hot Tub Cinema Topman Sport Cult films galore Little White Lies Hot new documentary makers And more... ISSUE 5

THE FILM ISSUE AR E YO U R EADY FO R YO U R C LOS E-U P? This is Topman Magazine, the bi-annual publication from the international men’s fashion brand created in London. It’s a record of what inspires us, what excites us, and what floats our boat. This issue is all about film and the artists who create it. Inside you’ll meet our cover star Douglas Booth, the young Brit actor who is the Wachowski’s intergalactic playboy in Jupiter Ascending, and – later this year – fights the undead in Pride & Prejudice & Zombies. Excellent indie film mag Little White Lies reveals their pick of new talent for 2015 – including The Babadook director Jennifer Kent and Ana Lily Amirpour, tipped to be the next Tarantino. And Dazed’s delightful Owen Myers introduces three new young guns that are leading their own movies of the moment. Director Richard Ayoade riffs on his favourite Hitchcock film, handpicked from the British Film Institute, and we step inside the lair of the costume king to meet Roger Burton, the man behind Quadrophenia, Absolute Beginners, Hackers, and countless ’80s music videos. Plus, we throw the spotlight on Topman TV, the new style channel that hosts Open Shoot, a new project where you (yes, you) can help create Ghostpoet’s latest video. You’ll also find everything you need to know about what’s dropping in store right now: our new activewear range, Topman Sport, premium denim, eye-popping prints, and contemporary tux suiting, plus our new collaboration with cult Parisian brand K-Way. We’ll bring you right up to the front row at our latest fashion show at London Collections: Men – the international style event where our premium in-house brand Topman Design takes centre stage – and Topman tastemakers from around the world pick out their favourite soon-to-drop pieces. When we design, we draw from everything around us: the off-beat style of east London, the slick suiting of Savile Row, and the festivals we hang out at, the gigs we put on and the parties we throw – with a little British punk spirit for good measure. We support new menswear talent through our partnership with design platform Fashion East and sponsorship of the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN MEN program. And we like to make friends: since 2005 we’ve collaborated with more than 50 of the best UK and US designers. Topman is available online at topman.com and in more than 30 countries, with hundreds of new items – shirts, tees, jeans, beautifully crafted suits, and accessories – dropping every month. See you on set.

Front Cover: Douglas Booth, Photography: Rory van Millingen 2

THE FILM ISSUE

CONTRIBUTORS

CONTENTS 6-9 THE NEW TALENT Little White Lies magazine’s Editor, David Jenkins, gives us the lowdown on who we should be keeping an eye out for in the world of film.

10-12 THE ACTORS Dazed’s Owen Myers on three new young guns: Jack O’Connell, Logan Lerman, and Bill Skarsgård.

13 THE CINEMAS Rooftop, outdoor, Art Deco? Our pick of the coolest places in the world to catch a flick.

Laura Silver

SONYA BARBER

DAVID JENKINS

Laura Silver is a writer at BuzzFeed UK where

Sonya Barber is the Time Out London Blog

David Jenkins is Editor of Little White Lies

she’s trying to take down The Man one list at a

Editor. You’ll mostly find her watching films in

magazine and Co-Editor of the Faber & Faber

time. She will watch any film by Nora Ephron

hot tubs, tasting fluorescent-coloured food (so

book, What I Love About Movies. His earliest cinematic memory is weeping uncontrollably

as many times as is humanly possible, and

you don’t have to), crawling through tunnels

considers When Harry Met Sally to be 100%

to get to the latest pop-up restaurant, digging

as a child at the sequence when Dumbo

the truth. She was blown away by Edwyn

around in the Transport for London Lost

accidentally gets drunk and the resultant

Collins’ The Possibilities Are Endless, last

Property Office, pretending to be a psychic,

fever-dream that incurs. He is looking forward

year; once told Greta Gerwig she ‘spoke to

sniffing dirty laundry at pheromone dating

to seeing Knight of Cups, the new film by

her’ and can often be found watching Tiny

nights and going to spanking lessons – all in

Terrence Malick and Sunset Song, the new

Furniture on Netflix for the 100th time.

the name of journalism.

film by Terence Davies.

@laurafleur

@Sonya_Barber

@DaveyJenkins

ADAM WOODWARD

OWEN MYERS

Dan Jones

Adam Woodward is the Deputy Editor of Little

Journalist Owen Myers is the Deputy Editor of

Hanging out with cover star Douglas Booth,

White Lies magazine. He has been writing

Dazed. For this issue, he called up Stockholm,

Topman Mag Editor in Chief Dan Jones was

about film since 2009, about the same time he

LA and London to get the inside track on three

relieved to find the otherwise perfect-looking

learned to read and write. During the course

of 2015’s most exciting new actors – Bill

(and 100% charming) actor wearing odd

of this issue he launched a successful tech

Skarsgård, Logan Lerman and Jack O’Connell.

socks. For this issue he also met the legendary

start-up, became a Millennialaire, and lost his

This spring, he’ll be going to Australia for the

Roger Burton at his secret film costume

entire fortune.

first time, and is looking forward to taking a

archive in London where he got to touch Jonny

@AWLies

tour of Ramsey Street.

Lee Miller’s bomber jacket from one of his

@Owen_Myers

favourite films, Hackers. @Jonessecret

14-15 THE FESTIVALS Sundance? Pah. Cannes? Meh. Berlin? Don’t bother. Here are the global film festivals you really need to be blagging your way into.

1 6-19 TOPMAN TREND: BALEARIC INDIGO Get summer ready with our new drop of deep blues paired with bright geo floral prints, Shibori tie-dye, and denim that’s inky blue-black or washed out, sun-bleached.

20-21 TOPMAN HQ: THE CULT MOVIE One of our Topman designers on why she’s crazy about Nicholas Roeg’s super-weird sci-fi classic The Men Who Fell To Earth, starring David Bowie, no less.

22 TOPMAN COLLABORATIONS: K-WAY x TOPMAN Introducing our new range of rainwear with legendary French pac-a-mac makers, K-Way. You’ll never be so delighted it’s drizzling.

23 BLANK CANVAS

24-31 THE LEADING MAN: DOUGLAS BOOTH

48 BEHIND THE SCENES: THE DIRECTOR

One of the UK’s most exciting new talents talks Sci-Fi, Boy George, Harry Potter – and randomly realising you’re famous.

LA’S Jimmy Marble talks love, team work, wanting to be Jeff Goldblum in Jurassic Park and why his dream project can never happen.

32-35 TOPMAN DENIM

4 9-52 TOPMAN TREND: GRAPHIC CONTENT

New washes, cool colours and some nifty technological innovations – water-repelling and breathable denim, anyone?

3 8-41 BEHIND THE SCENES: MEET THE KING OF COSTUME We explore the London archive of costume genius Roger Burton, the man responsible for kitting out Quadrophenia, Chariots Of Fire and Hackers.

42-43 THE DOCUMENTARIANS Our pick of five of the world’s most exciting, new documentary film makers from the UK, Australia and Malaysia.

44-45 TOPMAN SUITS All hail the return of the slim black tux as well as a simple, pastel-hued take on a classic, perfect for the prom or the red carpet.

46 THE ARTIST Graphic design maestro Olly Moss on designing super-coveted posters for some of the biggest films of all time.

47 THE CRITIC Dana Linssen, Editor in Chief of celebrated, super-on-it Dutch film magazine, De Filmkrant, on, among other things, why she takes The Hunger Games so seriously.

53-55 TOPMAN DESIGN This year, Topman Design show took inspiration from the ‘70s and the Mongolian wilderness with scaled down flares, bold tartan checks and ruffled shirts.

56-57 TOPMAN SPORT Welcome to our new activewear range, featuring perfectly cut sweats, shorts, tees and gym basics – everything you need to sweat it out in style.

58-59 TOPMAN TV Check out our YouTube channel for head-to-head battles, intimate interviews, fashion shows, parties, music news and the chance to star in the new Ghostpoet video.

6 0-61 THE EDIT Need a little sartorial steer? Topman’s team of stylists from around the world pick their favourite pieces that are dropping in store this season.

62 RICHARD AYOADE Britain’s indie, nerdy director darling on everything he’s learnt – and stolen – from his favourite Hitchcock movie, The Wrong Man.

Topman Creative Director, Gordon Richardson, on the ever-enduring appeal of the classic white tee.

Editor in Chief Dan Jones / jonestownlondon.com Sub Editor Patrick Welch / @padwelch 4

Retro geometric patterns and psychedelic ’60s prints are teamed with a little Britpop and ’90s clubland style for a seriously eye-catching look.

THE FILM ISSUE

Behind T he Scenes

THE NEW TALENT HANDPICKED BY LITTLE WHITE LIES

IN A BID TO FIND THEIR NEXT COVER STAR, RATHER EXCELLENT INDIE FILM MAGAZINE LITTLE WHITE LIES UNCOVERS THE FINEST NEW SCREEN TALENT ACROSS THE GLOBE. Little White Lies magazine is known for selecting the brightest stars to grace its illustrated front covers. While thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a certain amount of residual star-power and iconography that helps to make those decisions a little easier, the LWL team is always on the prowl for the Next Big Thing. Here they survey some of the up-and-coming talent who are likely to go nuclear in 2015.

THE FILM ISSUE Left: © Alexandre Marouze. Right: © Courtesy of Giraffe Pictures

Left: © REX. Right: © Atushi Nishijima

THE FILM ISSUE

CRAIG ROBERTS

AVA DUVERNAY

UNITED KINGDOM

JENNIFER KENT

USA

Ava DuVernay has been knocking around the film industry since the late ‘90s, but not in any outward-facing capacity. Working in film publicity for much of her early career, she broke through into directing shorts, docs, comedy sketches and concert films in the early 2000s, delivering her feature debut, I Will Follow, in 2010. She’s been bubbling under for a long time, but her latest supremely moving directorial effort, Selma, looks to alter all of that. Charting Martin Luther King’s civil rights mark from Selma to Montgomery, Alabama, in the name of voting rights for black people, DuVernay’s film launches her into the stratosphere of modern greats.

ANTHONY CHEN

AUSTRALIA

Few first-time directors have made as memorable an impact in recent times as Jennifer Kent. The Australian actress-turneddirector delivered a shock to the system with her feature debut, The Babadook; for our money the scariest horror film of the last decade. Telling the story of a widow and her young son haunted by an imaginary monster summoned from a mysterious pop-up book, The Babadook is a deeply unsettling psychological horror in the vein of The Shining. Although Kent has yet to reveal what her next project will be, we’re expecting big things from the director’s follow up.

SINGAPORE

Another promising young director, Anthony Chen burst onto the scene in 2013 with his charming debut, Ilo Ilo, which picked up the Caméra d’Or – the prize awarded to the best first feature – at the 2013 Cannes Film Festival. Instantly marking Chen as a director to watch while putting his nation’s cinema firmly on the map, this beautiful semi-autobiographical portrait of a typical Singaporean family is set in the wake of the 1997 Asian financial crisis, yet feels unmistakably modern in its stylistic approach. Chen recently announced that he will executive produce Distance, an omnibus film comprised of three 30-minute segments featuring a cast and young directors from China, Singapore and Thailand.

Left: © Megan McIsaac. Right: © Nigel Horsley

Left: © Ernest Wong. Right: © PJB/SIPA/REX

Known primarily as an actor, Roberts, 24, burst onto the scene in 2010 as the star of Richard Ayoade’s whimsical directorial debut feature, Submarine. Having nuzzled his way into the Hollywood frat pack with small roles in 22 Jump Street and Bad Neighbours, he spent the latter part of 2014 working on Just Jim, his debut feature as writer, director and star. Alongside that, he’s also the star of a new comedy TV series by David Gordon Green (Eastbound & Down) called Red Oaks, which is set in the ‘80s and co-stars that beloved icon of the era, Jennifer Gray.

LOUIS KOO

CARICE VAN HOUTEN

HONG KONG

NETHERLANDS

Hong Kong leading man Louis Koo is cropping up in more As quickly as Carice van Houten broke out in 2006, as the star of and more great films from the Far East, but calling him “upPaul Verhoeven’s brutal and brilliant World War Two film, Black and-coming”, might be damning the star with faint praise: he’s Book, she vanished from the limelight due to a thankless role in a Hong Kong’s highest paid movie actor. And taking some of his similarly-styled Hollywood war caper, Valkyrie, opposite a scenerecent work in mind, it’s not difficult to see why, as he has lent hogging Tom Cruise. A recurring and meaty role as Melisandre his redoubtable talents to some great films, predominantly in the Red Witch in sword-and-sorcery TV saga, Game of Thrones, collaboration with genre maestro Johnnie To, leading a rom-com reminded us of her immense presence, and she has since been in Don’t Go Breaking My Heart, an economic satire in Romancing cast as the German film director Leni Riefenstahl in a film about in Thin Air, and an amazing, full-throttle action movie in 2012’s the 1936 Berlin Olympics where sprinter Jesse Owens won a gold sublime Drug War. medal. Aside from being a keen Viner and Tweeter, she also has a successful pop career in the Netherlands; her most recent album was called ‘See You On The Ice’. 8

ANA LILY AMIRPOUR

JOEL KINNAMAN

UNITED KINGDOM

Born in England, living in America and making films in Iran, Ana Lily Amirpour is one of the most exciting new voices to have emerged over the past 12 months. Her directorial debut, A Girl Walks Home Alone at Night, which has been self-described as “the first Iranian vampire spaghetti western”, was one of the buzz films at the 2014 Sundance Film Festival and is set to be distributed by VICE films, whose creative director has called Amirpour “the next Tarantino”. High praise indeed, but judging from what we’ve seen from her so far, Amirpour has the right mix of attitude and talent to back it up.

SWEDEN

He’s been popping up in supporting roles in both big-budget Hollywood thrillers and lo-fi indie dramas for years now, but 2014 was the year Swedish actor Joel Kinnaman cemented his place as one of cinema’s rising stars. Kinnaman’s work on the US remake of Danish TV crime drama The Killing came to an end with the show’s final season, but this freed him up to take the next major step in his career, landing the lead part in José Padilha’s RoboCop revamp. Up next you’ll be able to catch him in hitman thriller Run All Night, Soviet Union drama Child 44 and, before that, Terrence Malick’s hotly anticipated Knight of Cups. Littlewhitelies.com 9

THE FILM ISSUE

THE ACTORS

New Young Guns

For these three young actors, sharing an army tank with Brad Pitt, drinking blood, and hanging with Angelina Jolie is all in a days work, finds Owen Myers.

JACK O’CONNELL

LOGAN LERMAN

Meet the ballsiest new face of British cinema. The Derby lad set the screen alight as a violent young offender in Starred Up (2013) and was nightcrawling Belfast streets in ’71, but it was his tour de force in Angelina Jolie’s Unbroken (pictured above) that showed a dedication head and shoulders above that of his Brit Pack peers. As an Olympic athlete who spends nearly three years as a POW after a plane crash, this career-making visceral performance goes to uncompromising – and mesmerising – lengths, and you won’t be able to stop talking about it for days. Already shot by the likes of Bruce Weber and Alasdair McLellan for arty mag features, he’s upping his style stakes too. Oh, and later this year, he’ll be playing opposite Cara Delevingne in period drama Tulip Fever. How’s that to make you feel bad about what you’d done by the age of 25?

In the last few years Logan Lerman has nearly drowned, got close with Emma Watson and spent six weeks living in a putrid army tank – but it’s all in a day’s work for Hollywood’s most likeable new leading man. After stellar turns in The Perks of Being A Wallflower and Noah, it was his role in Brad Pitt’s sinewy and uncompromising WW 2 epic Fury that really marked his ascent to the Tinseltown Pantheon. As a ruddy-cheeked army kid, his quiet and deft performance saw him learning to score with German girls and take deadly aim in the trenches, and Lerman ended up stealing the film from his mentor with his performance. In the noughties, the now 23-year old Cali actor clocked roles in movies like What Women Want and Riding In Cars With Boys, before taking on the lead in adaptations of teen books Percy Jackson & the Lightning Thief. A franchise never hurt R-Patz and J-Law, after all – and it stood him in good stead for swerving left more recently with his choice of parts. With his quiet confidence, don’t be surprised if he ends up being the next Ryan Gosling.

THE FILM ISSUE

Topman Hang Out

THE CINEMAS FIVE WONDERFULLY WEIRD FILM HOUSES

THERE’S NOTHING LIKE WATCHING DIE HARD FROM A ROOFTOP HOT TUB, FINDS SONYA BARBER, AS SHE UNCOVERS THE WORLD’S MOST EYE-POPPING MOVIE THEATRES.

London HOT TUB CINEMA Always wanted to feel like you’re living in a ’90s hip hop video? This is your chance. Dig out your smallest swimmers, bring some mates and enjoy a movie from the comfort of a bubbling jacuzzi. There’s tub service for all your booze and snack needs, plus a raucous post-film dance party. Side-boob, optional. HottubCinema.com

BILL SKARSGÅRD As the son of Stellan and brother of Alexander, the next in line of the Skarsgård acting dynasty – Sweden’s answer to the Culkins – is getting his fangs stuck into a platinum-plated career. Quite literally: as a vampire in Eli Roth’s creepy gorefest Netflix drama Hemlock Grove (pictured above). He’s the conflicted hero who becomes BFFs with a werewolf in a show that does for horror what Game of Thrones does for fantasy: making it modern, relatable, and box-set-binge watchable. Since his first role as a kid with Aspergers Syndrome in Swedish drama White Water Fury (2000), Skarsgård’s proven his taste for challenging roles – and attracted the attention of Saint Laurent’s Hedi Slimane, who photographed the 24-year-old for style bible HERO last year. With upcoming roles alongside Adrien Brody in the action epic Emperor, as well as indie drama Battlecreek, his taste for the dark side promises to unfurl further delicious treats.

Amsterdam PATHÉ TUSCHINSKI Time travel at this beautiful old Art Deco cinema, without the aid of the Tardis. The perfectly preserved 1920s interior may be vintage and indie art flicks are well represented here, but the Pathé Tuschinski also screens plenty of the current blockbusters. Arrive early to admire the jaw-dropping ornate interior before the lights drop or treat yourself to a plush balcony seat. Pathe.nl

Singapore GOLD CLASS AT THE GOLDEN VILLAGE If your film watching is lacking luxury and you’re feeling flush, give it a Midas makeover and splash out on the ultimate cinematic extravagance. Reclining comfy seats, footrests, soft wool blankets, fine wine and 13

gourmet food in a private lounge with your own attentive staff on hand to see to your every whim. Start saving now. Available at GV Suntec, GV Katong, GV VivoCity and GV Grand. Gv.com.sq

New Zealand PARADISO CINEMA The only thing better than watching a film on your sofa is seeing one on the big screen with all the comforts of home. At this much-loved, cinema in Wanaka, New Zealand, you’ll find comfy couches, homestyle cooking, friendly staff and an interval where you can scoff freshly baked cookies. Much better than crying into a takeaway alone at home with The Notebook on DVD. Paradiso.net.nz

Los Angeles THE HOLLYWOOD FOREVER CEMETERY CINESPIA POP-UP You’ll be surrounded by more celebs at a Cinespia screening than a red carpet premiere – only this time they’re all six feet under. Join the ghosts of Hollywood’s finest as you get comfy amongst the graves and under the palm trees to catch a classic flick. And as it’s LA, chances are it’ll be a balmy evening. Cinespia.org

THE FILM ISSUE

Topman Recommends

T H E F E S T I VA L S THE WORLD’S FINEST INDIE FILM FESTS FORGET THE SQUAWKING STAR-SPOTTERS OF BIG FILM FESTIVALS LIKE BERLIN, CANNES AND VENICE, IMMERSE YOURSELF IN A DIFFERENT CULTURE AND A MORE CUTTING-EDGE STYLE OF CURATION, SAYS ADAM WOODWARD. HERE ARE THE WORLD’S BEST LEFTFIELD FILM FESTIVALS AROUND THE GLOBE.

Austin, USA FANTASTIC FEST It may still be in the shadow of its older brother, South By Southwest, but as one of the younger festivals on this list Fantastic Fest has quickly established itself as one of the most exciting and innovative events on the film calendar. With a strong focus on horror, fantasy and sci-fi, this fully interactive festival, which runs from late September to early October, boasts a dizzying array of activities for people seeking a different perspective on the movie industry. In the past the festival has hosted world premieres of films like There Will Be Blood and Zombieland, and its roster of guests includes Kevin Smith, Darren Aronofsky and Bill Murray.

Galway, Ireland GALWAY FILM FLEADH For those who like their cinema to come with a side order of craic, look no further than Galway Film Fleadh (pronounced “flea”), which seeks to bring together audiences from all walks of life over a mutual appreciation of movies. Local luminaries from Michael Fassbender to Saoirse Ronan can be found mixing with international names such as Woody Harrelson, Isabelle Huppert and Abbas Kiarostami. The festivities are known to continue long into the night, so if you are planning on making the trip to Ireland’s west coast, be sure to pack an extra couple of party shirts. Galwayfilmfleadh.com

Fantasticfest.com

Lapland, Finland MIDNIGHT SUN FILM FESTIVAL Imagine settling down to watch a film in a place where the house lights never go down. Okay, so the organisers of the Midnight Sun Film Festival don’t insist on putting on screenings in fully-lit rooms, but the cinema is the only place you’ll experience darkness here. For the past 29 years, the sleepy village of Sodankylä in the heart of Finnish Lapland has hosted this four-day celebration of cinema during summertime, when the sun never sets. Co-founded by one of Finland’s most revered directors, Aki Kaurismäki, this small and informal festival offers a unique atmosphere and is a great place to check out the work of both seasoned masters and exciting new talent.

Copenhagen, Denmark CPH:DOX One of the world’s premier documentary festivals, CPH:DOX is the place to get ahead of the curve on current social and political issues, as well as somewhere to discover experimental films that blur the boundaries of reality. Founded in 2003, the festival has grown rapidly in recent years, and now the programme typically consists of up to 200 films from around the world. With special concerts and art exhibitions also taking place across the city during the festival’s five-day run, you’re never short of stuff to do here. © Courtesy of Galway Film Fleadh

CPHDOX.dk

Msfilmfestival.fi

Penang, Malaysia TROPFEST The South East Asia edition of Tropfest was launched in 2014 in Penang, Malaysia, instantly enhancing the festival’s reputation as a springboard for emerging talent. The short film competition is open to residents and citizens of the region, as well as neighbouring countries such as Cambodia, Indonesia and Singapore, and public screenings of the selected films are geared towards raising cultural awareness and providing opportunities for filmmakers to showcase their work on an international platform. Originally founded by Aussie director John Polson over 20 years ago, Tropfest is now the world’s largest short film festival. Clockwise from top: CPH:DOX, Fantastic Fest, Galway Film Fleadh, Midnight Sun Film Festival

Karlovy Vary, Czech Republic KARLOVY VARY FILM FESTIVAL The biggest event of its kind across central and eastern Europe, each year the Karlovy Vary Film Festival attracts a diverse mix of filmmakers, journalists, film buyers and distributors. One for the more adventurous punter, the programme is broken up into sections such as Another View, Horizons and Imagina, each focusing on a different artistic approach. Away from the competition, KVIFF Talks masterclass sessions have seen everyone from Cary Fukunaga (True Detective, Jane Eyre) to longtime Martin Scorsese collaborator Thelma Schoonmaker (The Wolf of Wall Street, The Departed) offer their insights into the film world.

Tropfest.com/sea

Kviff.com 15

THE FILM ISSUE

ÂŠ Photographer: Alasdair McLellan, Stylist: Ellie Grace Cummings, Hair stylist: Matt Mulhall

Topman Collections

Indigo-on-indigo summer-ready looks inspired by

traditional Japanese te xtiles and tie-dye Shibori

t e c h n i q u e s . We a r t o n a l c o m b i n a t i o n s o f i n k y s h a d e s ,

cut through with bright hibiscus prints and geo floral

m o t i f s . S u i t i n g i s s u p e r- s h a r p, d e n i m i s r u g g e d a n d

textured in deep blue-blacks and marbled, faded tones.

This is indigo, Balearic style.

BALEARIC INDIGO 16

THE FILM ISSUE

THE FILM ISSUE © Courtesy of BFI

THE FILM ISSUE

Topman HQ

AN E XTR ATE R R ESTR IAL DAVI D B OWI E, BAD B OY M O B STE R S, AN D H O R R I F I C B U B B LE P E R M S: TO P MAN D ES I G N E R AD E LE F E R G US O N O N TH E F I LM S THAT I N S P I R E.

“I like the weirdness of it all,” says Topman Designer Adele Ferguson of The Man Who Fell To Earth. Asked to name the films that inspire her menswear interest, the Nicholas Roeg sci-fi classic from ’76 is top of her list. She admits to being a little David Bowie obsessed, so she’s always been captivated by the icon’s first ever cinematic role as the soft-spoken alien millionaire with an unhealthy addiction to TV. “That oversized black coat, the pale suits, sunglasses, the red hair, and the space suits… What’s not to like?” She loves the great Hitchcock masterpiece, Marni, and the Mod suiting of Quadrophenia. But it’s the pimped up mobster look that she finds is her most enduring reference: from American Hustle with its ’70s glamour, to Boardwalk Empire with its pinstripes and spatz, to the perfectly styled British turn-of-the-century gangster show Peaky Blinders, with its cropped wool suits, hobnail boots and pristine starched collars over granddaddy shirts. Ridley Scott’s 1982 sci-fi classic Blade Runner starring Rutger Hauer is another inspiration, for it’s dark, grainy look and 1940s costume design.

Left: © Courtesy of BFI. Right: © REX/Everett Collection

THE CULT MOVIE

Finally, another Nicholas Roeg cult film makes her list. The 1973 horror classic Don’t Look Now starring Donald Sutherland and Julie Christie goes down as one of the most tense fright flicks ever created. “Donald Sutherland is styled in bootcut tweed trousers, Cuban boots, and a cream coloured heavy knit aran jumper. He plays an architect: refined, but a little rough around the edges,” explains Adele, who might find the film frightening for all the wrong reasons: “Not sure about Donald’s bubble perm, though. Pretty horrific.”

Clockwise from top: The Man Who Fell To Earth, Don’t Look Now, Bladerunner

THE FILM ISSUE

Topman T-Shir ts

BLANK CANVAS

K-WAY X TOPMAN TOPMAN COLLABORATIONS

Say bonjour to Topman’s latest collab, a super-rare collection of rainwear with cult Parisian brand, K-Way. Founded in 1965 on a particularly rainy day in the French capital, K-Way is the original pack-a-mac maker. Creating lightweight waterproof jackets – with a trademark multi-coloured zipper tape – that zip up into a tiny pocket bag, K-Way has kept their fans dry for 50 years. For this exclusive minicollection with Topman, K-Way has created four pieces, each a new contemporary spin on their most iconic styles, that zip up neatly into a cross body bag. Chouette!

‘Where casualwear is de rigueur nothing beats the simplicity of a simple, well-cut white tee. It is unpretentious, stylish and perennially modern. Its blank canvas versatility means it works equally well with a pair of jeans as under a suit jacket, its iconic status etched into our psyche by the likes of Marlon Brando and Steve McQueen. Enough said.’ Gordon Richardson, Topman Creative Director

THE FILM ISSUE

THE LEADING MAN D OU G LAS B OOTH TOPMAN E XCLU S IVE

The trumpet playing, odd sock wearing, sci-fi loving superstar on acting, Boy George and zombies, and playing an intergalactic upstart in the Wachowski’s latest mega-movie, Jupiter Ascending. 24

Douglas Booth has a superhero jawline and odd socks. The actor is hanging out at the Personal Shopping suite at Topman’s London flagship for a routine fitting ahead of some upcoming appearances. He’s taken off his boots and is trying on shirts and blazers, readjusting his hat in the mirror, cracking jokes and absent-mindedly wiggling his toes. A Topman tailor is on hand, making some final adjustments, fastidiously adding pins and writing notes with one extremely important observation underlined: ‘long arms.’

mega-movie from legendary filmmaking team, the Wachowski’s. “They are the most wacky, original, thought provoking directors I’ve ever worked with,” says Douglas, “their ideas are so massive. The Matrix changed the way movies are made, especially technically, and the ideas in it have seeped into our culture.” With the Wachowski’s bold films as philosophical as they are packed with Technicolor explosions, starships, and vampy aliens, their latest, Jupiter Ascending, follows the filmmakers’ neat trick of using high octane action to smuggle through big, thoughtful concepts to its audiences.

At 22, Douglas already has quite a few eye-popping entries in his acting resume. He’s played Boy George in the biopic Worried About The Boy, and the street sweeper love interest opposite Doctor Who actor Matt Smith in Christopher and his Kind. Douglas also played Pip in a 2011 adaptation of Dickens’ Great Expectations. A romantic lead role that stopped hearts across the world, the success of Great Expectations could have typecast Douglas as Downton fodder, had he not reappeared, in mud and muscles, as Shem in Darren Aronofsky’s Noah in 2014. This year, his latest project is released, the latest

Mila Kunis leads as a toilet cleaning, not-quite Earth girl with Channing Tatum as her pointy-eared extraterrestrial protector. Douglas plays Titus Abraxas, the alien playboy overlord with rock star skinny jeans and a secret mission. At odds with his brother and sister – played by Eddie Redmayne and Tuppence Middleton – Mila Kunis’ character is caught in the crossfire of the sort of brooding sibling squabble seen around the dining table at Christmas, only on an interplanetary scale. 25

THE FILM ISSUE

“Saying he wanted to act was met with disbelief. ‘But I thought, well

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someone’s got to do it. That was very much my mindset. Someone has to do those jobs so why can’t it be me?’”

With all its adventure and sci-fi oddness, Jupiter Ascending is a world that Douglas can relate to. “I had a huge imagination. When I was a child I’d run around my garden leading armies and going on great adventures, all in my head,” he says. “But I was heavily dyslexic. I struggled to read or write and always had to work harder. So I did more and more creative things, it was a way of expressing myself and I felt more comfortable.” He started to play the trumpet, “I knew I was never going to go through years and years of studying to become a doctor,” he says. “I loved Louis Armstrong and I thought I’d become a jazz musician.” He was soon cast in a school play and loved it, and decided there and then that he wanted to be an actor. He remembers being driven home from school one day and a friend’s mum asking him what he wanted to do when he grew up. Saying he wanted to act was met with disbelief. “But I thought, well, someone’s got to do it,” he says. “That was very much my mindset.

Someone has to do those jobs so why can’t it be me?” Headstrong, and – like most other kids his age – obsessed with Harry Potter, Douglas focused his attentions on getting a role in a film. “Whenever a new Harry Potter book came out, I’d read it hoping there was a character in it I could play. In the end I auditioned to play young Voldemort, Tom Riddle.” It was the role that got away, but it doesn’t seem to have hurt Douglas’ career much. “None of my family was in that business at all at the time, I was just really determined.” He joined the National Youth Theatre and spent his Saturdays meeting other young actors in the wings, some of who had agents. “I emailed a couple of agencies, and it just kind of happened.” Since then, Douglas’ life has transformed. “When you’re acting, you’re travelling the world and you’re not in one place all the time. It’s not just [playing] characters; it’s the lifestyle I love. It’s that constant need to keep changing and moving.” With its 80s British clubland edge, we ask Douglas what it was like playing the world’s most unique pop star in Worried About The Boy. “The costumes were the most amazing thing,” says Douglas, who wore one-off pieces by BAFTA-winning costume designer Annie Symons, and a few of Boy George’s own originals. “He loaned us some incredible stuff, leather jackets that were totally customised, he’d put thousands of 26

safety pins in them – this stuff belongs in a museum and I got to wear it!” says Douglas. “There’s nothing quite like that to fully transport you into a character.” After Jupiter Ascending, Douglas’ next project is a little more obviously grisly: the film adaptation of the New York Times bestseller Pride and Prejudice and Zombies, out later this year. “British people always think its nuts because the original material is so sacred,” explains Douglas. “But it’s not a ‘running around from A-Z being chased by zombies’ film, it’s about how society will survive, how will that world keep operating the way they’ve always operated. It really is romantic and beautiful and the story really works, it’s just set amongst the most bizarre circumstances.”

“Jupiter Ascending is the Wachowski’s first original sci-fi since The Matrix,” explains Douglas, “and they’ve created a whole new universe, outside of the one we know. It’s ruled by different industries overseen by royal families, and the Earth is an asset that belonged to my character’s mother – she died and left her inheritance to her reincarnated self – but the siblings are all trying to get it for themselves… It’s weird and wonderful.”

After just six years in the film industry, Douglas hasn’t had too much time to reflect. “Sometimes I do think ‘wow, this is my life now, this is my normality,’” he says. Recently, in a restaurant with his mum, they star spotted Stanley Tucci across the room. “We don’t know each other that well,” says Douglas, “but we’ve met before through acting and stuff, so I said ‘Hey, Stanley!’ Later on, my mum said that she never thought her son would be shaking hands with Stanley Tucci. She’s really proud!” Of course she is, Douglas. We just won’t tell her about the odd socks. Jupiter Ascending is out now

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All Zipped Up

ÂŠ Photographer: Thomas Cooksey, Stylist: Harry Lambert, Hair stylist: Teiji Utsumi

Topman Denim

New blues and deep blacks are the latest focus of Topmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s denim workshop, with fresh new washes, clean and pristine looks, and authentic hand-worked worn areas. Function takes centre stage with water-repelling and breathable fabric innovations, and high grade indigo denim takes on new shades and tints, with subtle coffee, purple and green tones. 32

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Stories

THE FILM ISSUE © Phototography by James Pearson-Howes

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MEET THE KING OF COSTUME TOPMAN MAGAZINE MEETS ROGER BURTON, COSTUME MAVERICK OF QUADROPHENIA, CHARIOTS OF FIRE, AND ’90S CULT FILM HACKERS, AT HIS SECRET STREETWEAR ARCHIVE IN LONDON. Hidden behind London’s Russell Square, on a tiny street lined with lumpy cobbles and squat, red brick buildings, is the secret lair of Roger Burton. Inside a converted horse hospital built in the late 1700s is the fashion kingpin’s eye-popping collection of beloved items from the world’s most famous films and music videos.

jackets to supply the punk market, and military trousers we used to dye black and put zips on – that sort of stuff.” With a group of friends, Roger opened PX in 1978, a sort of twisted industrial American general store, in an empty fruit and veg lock-up in Covent Garden. “I designed the shop, and wanted it to look like a U-Boat inside; it had no windows, only metal pull-down shutters, and we had CCTV set up so people could see what’s inside. You had to crawl in through this tiny iron door to get in, and it was very intimidating. You had to feel like you were part of it to have the guts to go in.” Punk bands rehearsed upstairs and in the basement, and Chrissie Hynde and Boy George worked shifts, selling riding boots, jodhpurs and leathers to a soundtrack of industrial hardcore like Throbbing Gristle, blasting out across the shop floor.

His jumbled-up office is like the punk version of Dumbledore’s study, and as he talks through his colourful career, stylists drop by and depart clutching an ancient Vivienne Westwood original, or bags of studded belts for photo shoots and music videos. There’s a plastic horse head on a mannequin, a garland of fluf fy stuf fed rats, and a plaster cast of Bigfoot’s footprint. His racks of crisp Mod suits, MA-1 bombers, and beautifully bashed-up leather biker jackets may all have their own leftfield histories, but it’s Roger’s own story that excites the most. As a teenager, Roger was obsessed with Mod culture. He loved the music, the style of it all. He started to deal in Mod clothing and ephemera, trawling old shops and warehouses for vintage finds to sell to local shops, and then boutiques in London. His van – a sort of mobile shop packed with Mod gems – was soon upgraded to a market stall on Portobello Road. With his growing network of boutique owners and stylists, Roger became the go-to for London’s burgeoning alternative fashion industry, which soon started to have a darker, tougher edge.

With London embracing punk, Roger still had racks of his beloved Mod suits on his hands. “I went back onto Portobello Road and had a stall with a friend,” says Roger, “it was this winter’s day, snowy, wet and horrible, and we were thinking we weren’t going to sell anything. This guy walked by a few times and asked ‘is this all 60s stuf f ?’ We told him we had a warehouse full of it, and he said he was starting a film, financed by The Who, called Quadrophenia, all about Mods!” Roger and his friend sold everything to the production company, and his handpicked originals dressed the hundreds of Mods roaring over the horizon on their scooters in Franc Roddam’s cult 1978 movie.

“We were a little bit too old to be punks,” says Roger, “but we were really into it. By that time I’d also been travelling to Europe and buying leather 38

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He was the costume designer for cult youth tech thriller

Hac ker s, with Angelina Jolie and Johnny Lee Miller in

punk edged rave wear from Roger’s collection. T he film

celebrates its 20th anniversar y this year – and he still

gets weekly fan mail about it.

At the end of filming, the producer sold the pieces back to Roger, recommending he start his own hire company. And he did just that. Moving into a building in Borough Market, he set up his archive, squished between The Stranglers’ offices and a trendy vegan restaurant.

from Roger’s collection, the film celebrates its 20th anniversary this year – and he still gets weekly fan mail about it. Over the years, Roger’s archive has become an underground and avant-garde arts venue. In the basement, you’ll find art and fashion exhibitions, and weird film screenings you’d never see anywhere else. And up on the top floor, his costume collection – officially known as The Contemporary Wardrobe – is a bit like a family album. There are pieces of menswear in there that he wore himself as a teenager to soul nights in the 60s. Some were handed down from his grandfather.

Roger’s talent for finding unique clothing, designing shop interiors and styling celebs in unexpected ways, won him the reputation as a world expert in costume and youth culture. A fan of his dark-edged look at PX, Vivienne Westwood commissioned him to create the interior of her new store World’s End. “I’d not really had any experience,” admits Roger, who was a little nervous at taking on the job – “I mean I’d worked on a farm, and I’d put PX together, but I wasn’t a professional. Anyway, I thought, “oh f**k it, I’ll say ‘yes’.”

“I’ve always loved and supported outsiders, mavericks and punks,” says Roger, “that’s what the whole ethos of this building is about, and what these clothes stand for. It’s about having an attitude. And those stories still resonate. It’s so important. The stories, the folklore, and the history…”

His concept for the store was a huge success and his career took off; he was David Bowie’s dresser for two years, created another store interior – Malcolm McLaren’s Nostalgia of Mud in London, and kitted out the cast of Hugh Hudson’s Chariots of Fire. Throughout the ’80s he made more than 100 music videos – a new medium at the time – including promos for Culture Club, The Kinks, Blondie and The Human League. He worked on Julien Temple’s classic Absolute Beginners and was involved in Sid & Nancy and even Little Shop of Horrors.

Each piece is a little fragment of the history of youth. Perhaps it was discovered in a creepy, run down shop attic he cajoled his way into as a young man, or a Mod classic that survived the Brighton beach fights of Quadrophenia. You might find a punk one-off from PX on the racks, or a scuffed biker jacket worn by Jonny Lee Miller, roller blading through Manhattan in Hackers.

In the mid-90s he did the costumes for youth tech thriller Hackers. Starring Angelina Jolie and Johnny Lee Miller in punk edged ravewear 40

TheHorseHospital.com 41

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Behind T he Scenes

T H E D O C U M E N TA R I A N S FIVE N EW K I D S ON TH E B LOCK D O C U M E NTARY F I LM B R EAKS B O U N DAR I ES, AF F ECTS S O C IAL C HAN G E AN D ALTE R S P E R C E PTI O N S. AN D WITH O R GAN I SATI O N S LI K E TH E G R I E R S O N TR UST O F F E R I N G S U P PO RT AN D M E NTO R I N G, P LUS TH E D IY F R E E D O M O F TH E I NTE R N ET P R OVI D I N G A P LATFO R M FO R N EW VO I C ES TO B E H EAR D, TH E R E’S N EVE R B E E N A B ETTE R TI M E TO B E A YO U N G D O C MAK E R, SAYS LAU R A S I LVE R. H E R E AR E TH E O N ES YO U N E E D TO K N OW.

ADEYEMI MICHAEL “Documentary is a way to create change and empower people”, says Grierson supported Adeyemi Michael, whose awardwinning film, Sodiq, asks ‘how does a kid with the aspirations of becoming a doctor find himself on trial for murder?’ Focusing on his teenage football teammate, Adeyemi’s tough, no BS viewpoint, prompted London politician Diane Abbot to say ‘Sodiq presents us with an opportunity to debate issues with the criminal justice system’. Community remains the young doc maker’s biggest inspiration, “once I feel moved by being connected, I feel I can move others”, he says, and he spends much of his time working with young people in South London.

dealing with depression – and promptly won The Grierson Trust’s Best Student Documentary award. “I’m very much interested in the process of making documentaries: observing real life, building up relationships with the contributors, and learning whilst filming, and in the end trying to make sense of it in the edit,” he says.

Peterakar.blogspot.co.uk

GENEVIEVE CLAY-SMITH Australian filmmaker Genevieve Clay-Smith seems to be good at pretty much everything – she’s even New South Wales Young Australian of the Year for 2015 – and her work cleverly blurs the boundaries between documentary and creative film. Having begun her career with film projects for Down Syndrome NSW, Clay-Smith is a strong advocate for inclusive filmmaking and worked with many disabled crew-members on her Tropfest winning short, Be My Brother, a film that aims to break down stigmas around disability. For her most recent film, I Am Emmanuel, Genevieve worked closely with the South Sudanese community in NSW to explore challenges faced by African-Australians.

Adeyemimichael.com

DERSHE SAMARIA Dershe Samaria’s short film for Channel 4, New Young Rebels Ditch Bingeing for Bingo, aims to challenge attitudes towards young people and to give a voice to “my generation who are too often misrepresented in the media.” Following a surprisingly straight-laced youth that has cracked the bingo circuit, Dershe explains that “growing up in London I have witnessed many class, gender and race divides, so documentary making became a safe and powerful tool to provide insights into other worlds and ideologies.” The Grierson-supported filmmaker and cofounder of an independent production company, Nuwave Pictures, points out that “now the internet offers a democratic platform,” filmmakers like her “have more creative freedom.”

@GenevieveClay

POINT8CAM Nowhere is travel footage more at home than in documentary film, and nobody knows that better than the skate-obsessed Malaysian filmmaker, known geekily only as point8Cam (with a lowercase P). Together with his wife, he has captured a wealth of destinations, from his native Malaysia and other Eastern Asian countries including Thailand, Japan and Indonesia, to the wilds of Iceland, which they then share with their huge following on social media along with detailed stories about each place.

@DersheSamaria

PETER AKAR Peter Akar began his screen career writing TV sit-coms in his native Hungary before moving to the UK to study documentary filmmaking at the National Film and Television School in London. His graduation film, Sing Your Heart Out, follows a choir in Hackney, east London, formed entirely of a group of people

Point8cam.com

1 & 2: New Young Rebels, Dershe Samaria. 3: Sodiq, Adeyemi Michael. 4: I Am Emmanuel, Genevieve Clay

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Topman Suiting

AWARD WINNER 44

Topman’s slim black contemporary Tux suit returns this Spring/Summer, the modern classic with narrow peaked lapels and upscale covered buttons – and a crisp white version for good measure. There’s a fresh approach to prom and red carpet looks with a strong, LA-inspired, sun-faded collection of pastel pink, mint green, ivory and powder blue suits, countered by bold jade green, cobalt blue, and rich burgundy. There’s even a little textured velvet for an opulent blazer option. 45

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Behind T he Scenes

THE ARTIST

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O LLY M OS S I S TH E U K-BAS E D ARTI ST AN D G R AP H I C D ES I G N E R WH O C R EATES (AN D R EWO R KS) F I LM POSTE R S FO R MAJ O R STU D I OS AM O N G ST OTH E R R ATH E R C R EATIVE TH I N G S.

THE CRITIC

I always describe myself as a graphic designer But recently I’ve been moving further into concept art and illustration. Though, really, there’s not much distinction between any of these disciplines.

Is there a favourite film genre I’m drawn to? It changes all the time. For years, I didn’t think I liked horror movies. How stupid! I realised what an idiotic thing it was to swear off an entire genre. So now there’s an entire canon of great horror films that I’ve been slowly working my way through.

I actually studied English Literature Design was a hobby that gradually started paying for itself. What do I love about it? Finishing a piece that you know is good. It doesn’t happen very often, but there’s nothing quite like it.

Any projects I’m particularly proud of? Probably the poster I did for the 85th Oscar’s ceremony. Or my first solo gallery show.

I try not to stick to a single visual style But I think there’s definitely a single attitude that informs my work. It’s all concept-led. I don’t think too hard about what a piece is going to look like until I’ve absolutely decided on what it needs to communicate.

What I’m working on at the moment A video game! I’m doing all the concept art. It’s called Firewatch and it’ll be out in the summer. It’s my dream project! I get to design the look of a world people will be able to inhabit. Making a video game was right at the top of my bucket list.

I like to show people a different angle on things they’ve already seen Things they’ve already become familiar with. Film has probably informed pop culture more than any other medium. It’s fun to subvert people’s expectations.

What advice would I give to an artist just starting out? Just make stuff. All the time. Don’t wait for someone to ask you, or give you permission. Just make stuff.

Celebrated Dutch film critic and editor of De Filmkrant Dana Linssen takes The Hunger Games very, very seriously, finds David Jenkins.

cinema goers and just reflect what is out there.” She adds, “We like to talk about aesthetics and film history. But also about film in a social or psychological context.”

Ask any cinephile what they know about Dutch cinema, and the answer will inevitably come back to one name: Paul Verhoeven. And most of his big commercial successes as a director – RoboCop, Starship Troopers, Total Recall – were all made once he’d migrated from the low countries to set up camp amid the spangly opulence of the Hollywood Hills. Connoisseurs, however, remained tied to his early movies that were made in and around his home country, even when in titles such as Spetters (about the kids in Rotterdam’s 50cc motocross scene fooling around with each other) and The Fourth Man (an erotic thriller), he was pushing the envelope of screen sex and violence to its very outer limits.

This remit doesn’t preclude discussion of more mainstream films, it’s just that Linssen wants to approach them in a more serious manner: “We are all as interested to see what the next Hunger Games will be like, if only as a social document,” she says. “We will then take an afternoon and an evening off to see a film by the Philippine film maker Lav Diaz at the EYE [Amsterdam’s massive, water-side film centre which also acts as a national repository for 35mm prints, posters, photographs and books]. So since we have this broad scope, I think we are also quite representative of what is going on.” De Filmkrant is a free magazine that is distributed in all of the Amsterdam art cinemas plus some of the more commercial Pathé theatres. It’s a tradition that dates back to the magazine’s founding fathers: Jan Heijs, Henk Rabbers and Huub Bals, the latter also being the founder of the Netherlands’ biggest annual showcase for new cinema, the Rotterdam International Film Festival. “Bals felt that if he was going to screen and distribute all these films, there needed to be a journalistic and independent, but enthusing and trustworthy publication to talk about them,” says Linssen. “We still work in that tradition, although we have grown more mainstream in the last 15 years. Which is only normal as the boundaries between high and low, mainstream, art and cult have become somewhat diffuse. And as cinephiles we all have eclectic and idiosyncratic tastes and preferences. But you will find us from Pathé Arena, next to the Ajax Stadion to Het Ketelhuis, a cinema originally founded for Dutch films but now screening a fine mix of everything and anything.”

Scratch beneath this gaudy surface and there’s more to Dutch film culture than meets the eye. Dana Linssen is the editor-inchief of Holland’s premiere film magazine, De Filmkrant, and despite the fact it’s only released in the Dutch language, the ideas and thinking it produces in its pages has raised it to a level of global import. One of Linssen’s most famous additions to the critical discourse was the coining of the term “slow criticism”, which champions “wayward articles that too seldom find their way to print, because they are considered too philosophical, personal, political or poetic.” It’s essentially a method of looking at films in the detail and with the patience that they deserve. As such, her day-to-day editorial goal isn’t so much for the magazine to operate as a passive cheerleader for homegrown releases, or dutifully cover glossy blockbusters which will naturally receive blanket coverage in other outlets, but, in her words, to, “enlarge and broaden the tastes and sensibilities of

filmkrant.nl

Ollymoss.com

THE FILM ISSUE © Photographer: Thomas Cooksey, Stylist: Way Perry, Hair stylist: Teiji Utsumi, Make-up: Elias Hove, Set designer: Theo Politowicz

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Behind T he Scenes

TH E D I R ECTO R Multi-talented, long-haired Jimmy Marble, the 29-year-old LA-based film director, on collaboration, gigantic love, and his fantasy film role.

I’m a sucker for stories about love where the love is gigantic. You can fit that inside of any genre, which is the beauty of it.

I’m a director, but also a photographer and a designer. I try to make as many things as I can.

I like my music video for the song, Trapped by The Subs a lot. It’s more broody than most of my work, and so it always stands out to me. I made it right after a break-up.

I got really into Godard and Tr uffaut as a teenager and spent most of my college life making short films that imitated their style. At school I studied art history, so all of my filmmaking was just on my own with friends. It was the perfect way to learn how to direct, because I got to learn by following my intuition and learning from my own mistakes.

I just did a successful Kickstarter campaign for two new short films. So, I’m getting prepared to make those in the first half of 2015. I’m also writing an episodic series with my writing partner that I’m more excited about than I’ve ever been about a project.

I love the collaboration of it. I love all the different people I get to work with. Not many other jobs let you collaborate so intensely with such a wide cast of characters. Your talent, hair, make-up, costumer, production designer, editor, colourist, composer – there are just so many voices working on the same story, and you get to help direct them all to a larger purpose.

A dream project would be a sci-fi musical shot in the style of Dogville. No one would ever finance that, so it’ll have to remain a dream.

How would I describe my style? I’m not sure. Colourful? I think I need another five years to figure out my style. A recurring theme in my work is a detachment from reality.

What advice would I give to an artist just starting out? Fall in love with working hard.

Topman Prints

GRAPHIC CONTENT The Topman design studio has pushed print to the outer limits to create seriously graphic content. ’60s geometrics contrast with rich, dark psychedelic florals, reimagined with a contemporary outlook that experiments with scale and colour. Graphic prints rework an enduring theme, Britpop, by playing with the fonts, symbols and sportswear branding of ’90s clubland. Different visual worlds that all work together to form a grown up, subtly rebellious look.

If I were in a movie… Off the top of my head, playing Jeff Goldblum’s character Dr. Ian Malcolm in Jurassic Park would be so so so sick.

Jimmymarble.com 48

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Behind T he Scenes

TOPMAN DESIGN’S LATEST COLLECTION, BOMBAY CITY ROLLERS, TAKES ITS STYLE NOTES STRAIGHT FROM THE ‘70S VIA GLAM ROCK, HIPPIE CHIC, EVEL KNIEVEL, AND SOME SERIOUSLY TRIPPY VISUALS AT LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN.

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Topman Design AW15 - Left: Douglas Booth and Nick Grimshaw. Right: Tinie Tempah

“BOYS OF THE ‘70S: ALL SPINDLY LEGS AND GIANT AFGHANS, STEPPING OUT OF NIGHTCLUBS AT 3AM WITH TOUSLED HAIR AND SHADES.” Rich blue denims, ruffled hippie shirts and glam rock flares: futurethinking premium brand Topman Design looked back to the 1970s for its Autumn Winter ‘15 presentation, with a touch of the Mongolian wilderness for good measure. The shows title “Bombay City Rollers” was the cue for plush striped blanket coats clashed with bright shearling, all underpinned by strong tartan checks, and smart prints inspired by the guilloché patterns found on modern day bank notes. And the crowd – hundreds strong – loved it. The packed out runway show – the opening event of biannual international design event London Collections: Men – saw Tinie Tempah, broadcaster Nick Grimshaw and Topman Magazine cover star Douglas Booth man the front row. Alongside them were

model Jack Guinness, Utopia actor Nathan Stewart-Jarrett, Sherlock actor Andrew Scott and Brit designer Henry Holland. Broadcast live on Topman TV, the set list pumped out The Sweet, Sparks, Tiga, and even The Osmonds, all in front of a super-bright video wall with graphics, handpicked from the collection, exploding in time with music. And the models themselves: styled as the iconic men of the ‘70s that inspired the show, it was as if Bowie, Jagger, and the Bay City Rollers had taken to the runway. See the show – YouTube.com/Topman Topman Design AW14 - Left: Wretch 32 and Andrew Scott. Topman Design AW15 - Right: Robert Konjic and Jack Guinness

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Topman Spor t

WO R K IT O UT

TO P MAN S PO RT PARTN E R S TR U E P E R FO R MAN C E WITH TEC H ACTIVEWEAR D ES I G N P E R F ECT C UT S WEATS AN D GYM BAS I CS, R E F LECTIVE R U N-R EADY P R I NTS, AN D EVE RYTH I N G I N B ETWE E N, ALL S H OT TH R O U G H WITH D RY-TEC H CAPAB I LITI ES THAT WI C K M O I STU R E AWAY F R O M TH E B O DY K E E P I N G YO U C O O L AN D D RY. I N TO N ES O F B LU E AN D VI O LET, WITH R E F LECTIVE P I P I N G, AN D S U P E R-B R EATHAB LE FAB R I CS.

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Tune In

H EAD -TO -H EAD BATTLES, S EC R ET G I G S, U P- C LOS E I NTE RVI EWS AN D E X P E RT STYLE C H EATS: TO P MAN’S B R AN D N EW YO UTU B E C HAN N E L I S PAC K E D WITH E XC LUS IVE EYE-PO P P I N G C O NTE NT THAT’S 100% CAT-F R E E.

B E A C R EATIVE C O NTR I B UTO R TO G H OSTPO ET’S B R AN D N EW M US I C VI D EO: TAG YO U R VI S UAL I D EAS WITH #O P E N S H O OT AN D S E E YO U R I D EAS O N S C R E E N I N TO P MAN’S TOTALLY U N I Q U E C R OWD - S O U R C E D C R EATIVE P R OJ ECT.

Always on, totally shoppable, with a big style and music edge (and the odd brussels sprout eating challenge for good measure), our new YouTube channel, Topman TV, is your go-to for last-minute style cheats and big breaking trends. Looking for cute cats playing a keyboard? You’ve come to the wrong place, my friend.

Want to get involved? Show off your visual ideas – images, video, anything –using #OpenShoot and we’ll add them to our online gallery on Topman.com/openshoot. Who knows? You could have that one jaw-dropping idea that ignites the whole project and end up as a major creative contributor.

With major store openings, big parties, and our biannual Topman Design runway show, Topman TV sets its sights on the best live events with smart style advice and the latest drops in store. Look out for offbeat head-to-head battles and intimate interviews with bands like Brit music duo Adam Englefield and Jacob Manson, aka Blonde, or US indie electro outfit Joywave who asked us “why be credible, when you can be INcredible?” Wise words, indeed.

First up is Ghostpoet aka MC Obaro Ejimiwe whose track X Marks The Spot has undergone the Open Shoot treatment. With the Brit artist’s fanbase creating a unique music video, check out Topman TV for behind the scenes clips and the exclusive online premiere of it on March 13. We’re pretty sure it’s a digital first. Like Charlie Bit My Finger. With proper style content, jaw-dropping showdowns, new music, live events, and the Open Shoot project, Topman TV won’t gain a place at the Internet Cat Video Festival this year (yes, it’s an actual event). But that’s probably a good thing.

And then there’s Open Shoot, our most ambitious project yet. Connecting music artists with their most creative fans, from set designers and stylists to would-be film producers, Open Shoot creates an eye-popping music video using crowd-sourced visual ideas.

YouTube.com/Topman

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Topman Insiders

“It’s the perfect time to wear your tailored blazer with a smart jean or chino. Team this with a basic tee for a casual look, or layer with a button-down smart shirt when you’re heading out for the night. Keep it simple: a balanced colour palette will stand out more than a multitude of tones and prints.”

“The strength of this look comes from the details. The lightweight zip-up jacket works well against the darkness of the shirt and jeans, and the slick hair and neckerchief give it plenty of post-punk rockabilly attitude. The neckerchief should be on everyone’s buy list, it’s an instant update, just clash the colour.”

“Rebellious and effortless: my favourite words when it comes to styling, and this look totally nails it. With a lux black leather jacket thrown over the shoulders, denim and leather is an iconic and classic combination. Who wouldn’t want to be a part of history every morning when they get dressed?”

Bradley John, Personal Shopper,

Andrew Allan, Personal Shopping Manager,

Harold Vargas, Personal Shopper,

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“Britain’s brassiest youth movement: this look captivates the electric, frenetic, irresistible energy of Mod culture. The simple geometric pattern gives this shirt a relaxed feel, and paired with a black, skinny jean it’s a staple look. The Wayfarers add a classic design element – being one of fashion’s most enduring icons – with a hint of dangerousness to complete the look.”

“These upgraded fashionable joggers go perfectly with a grey-on-grey shirt and tee and pair of smart-looking chunky shoes to get that super laid-back, throw-on kind of feel we’re craving this season. A pair of shades makes it 100% hangover-proof.”

“Just dropped in store: the loose-fit tee with clever interlock fabrication, keeping things simple and cool with a touch of edginess. Keep it casual for the tropical climate in Singapore, or smarten it up with a pair of work trousers. Less is more, we say!”

“The upbeat all-over print tee: a super simple and easy way to push your look into Spring/ Summer. This is my go-to look; the roller fit cut makes the perfect outfit for a music festival and, with some simple accessories thrown on, I’m good to go.”

Lyndon Sharma, Topman Auckland

Sanna Rocksberg, Topman Sweden

Nadine Loh, Topman Singapore

Kyle Chong, Topman Malaysia

THE EDIT Dropping in store this season, Topman’s team of Personal Shoppers, Stylists and fashion gurus handpick their favourite brand new essentials, from the Fifth Ave flagship to the legendary London HQ.

THE FILM ISSUE

O U R STO R ES

SINGAPORE

Available nationwide across the UK.

Bugis Junction, 200 Victoria Street,

Topman.com.

#02-12, S188021. Ion Orchard, 2 Orchard Turn, #B3-02, S238801.

EUROPE

Jem, 50 Jurong Gateway Road,

THE NETHERLANDS 48/52 Kalverstraat, Amsterdam, Holland.

Knightsbridge, 270 Orchard Road,

ALSO AVAILABLE AT KADEWE, OBERPOLLINGER AND SELECTED KARSTADT

Raffles City, 252 North Bridge Road,

#01-30, S608549. #01-05/06, S238857. #02-39, S179103.

AND DE BIJENKORF STORES AND DEBIJENKORF.NL

Tampines 1, 10 Tampines Central 1, #01-25, S529537.

USA

Vivocity, 1 Harbour Front Walk, #01-72, S098585.

NEW YORK 478 Broadway, New York, NY 10013.

SWEDEN

608 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10020. LOS ANGELES 189 The Grove Drive, Los Angeles,California, CA 90036.

RICHARD AYOADE AND THE WRONG MAN DIRECTOR OF SUBMARINE AND THE DOUBLE ON THE GRAINY NEWSREEL PARANOIA OF ONE OF HITCHCOCK’S FINEST FILMS, HANDPICKED FROM THE BRITISH FILM INSTITUTE.

STOCKHOLM Gallerian Centre, Gallerian, Hamngatan 37, Stockholm, 111 53.

LAS VEGAS Fashion Show Mall, 3200.

Sergelgatan 8-10, Stockholm, 111 57.

Las Vegas Boulevard South,

GOTHENBURG Arkaden, Sodra Hamngatan 37-41, Gothenburg, 411 06.

Las Vegas, Nevada, NV 89109. CHICAGO 830 North Michigan Avenue, Chicago, Illinois, IL 60611.

MALAYSIA

SAN DIEGO Fashion Valley Shopping Mall, 7007 Friars Road, San Diego, CA 92108. ATLANTA Lenox Square Shopping Mall, 3393 Peachtree Road, Atlanta, GA 30326. (Opening March 2015)

KUALA LUMPUR Suria KLCC, Lot C17/18, Concourse Level, Suria KLCC, Kuala

HOUSTON The Galleria Shopping Mall, 5085 Westheimer Road, Houston, TX 77056.

Lumpur City Centre, 50088.

(Opening March 2015)

Mid Valley Megamall, Lot G71-G72 Mid Valley Megamall, Mid Valley City, Lingkaran

ALSO AVAILABLE AT SELECTED NORDSTROM

Pavilion KL Lot 4.08 & 4.09, Pavilion KL, 168 Jalan Bukit Bintang, 55100.

STORES AND NORDSTROM.COM

SELANGOR 1 Utama Lot F308 & F309, One Utama Shopping Center, Lebuh Bandar

Syed Putra, 58000.

Utama, Bandar Utama, Damansara, 47800 Petaling Jaya, Selangor. Sunway Pyramid Lot 1.28, Sunway Pyramid, 3 Jalan Pjs 11/15, Bandar Sunway, 46150

“All of Hitchcock’s films work on the level of pure entertainment. He didn’t make a boring film ever – watching his work is not like homework at all. Vertigo’s a great one to start with, and North By Northwest is probably the most romp-like, but personally I love The Wrong Man.

There are a few sequences in The Wrong Man that I think are perhaps the best of any of his films. There’s a scene where Henry Fonda has to go to prison and you just see him take in the cell; it’s all done just by cutting to Fonda’s face and cutting to what he sees. This is something that Hitchcock talks a lot about doing: you see the hero and see what they see, but the brilliance of his actors notwithstanding – you supply the emotion; you become the protagonist. It also plays on Hitchcock’s fear of being in prison. There’s the famous anecdote that his father sent him to jail when he was young – his father knew the local policeman and he locked up Hitchcock for half an hour after he did something wrong.

It has all the things that make Hitchcock great. It’s not a whodunit; you know the main character’s innocent, and yet it’s completely compelling. Hitchcock takes an ordinary man and puts him in an extraordinary situation. He makes you feel what it would be like to be in over your head, not knowing why you’re accused, trying to work it out, and establish your innocence. In some way Hitchcock knows we are all guilty, and it’s only luck that prevents us from being condemned.

HONG KONG

Petaling Jaya, Selangor. PENANG Gurney Plaza, Lot G-73, Plaza Gurney, Persiaran Gurney, 10250 Georgetown, Penang.

93 Queensway, Admiralty, Hong Kong.

Queensbay Mall, Lot GF 51, Queensbay Mall, 100 Persiaran Bayan Indah, 11900 Bayan Lepas, Penang.

AUSTRALIA

JOHOR Johore Bahru, Lot G57 & G58, Jusco Tebrau City, 1 Jalan Desa Tebrau, Taman Desa Tebrau, 81100.

SYDNEY The Gowings Building, 45 Market St, Sydney, NSW 2000.

NEW ZEALAND

MELBOURNE Emporium, 287 Lonsdale Street, Melbourne, VIC 3000 Jam Factory, 500

AUCKLAND 203 Queen Street, Auckland 1010. (Opening March 2015)

Chapel St, South Yarra, VIC 3141. Level 3, Highpoint Shopping Centre, 179 Rosamond Rd, Maribyrnong, VIC 3032. BRISBANE 160 Albert St, Brisbane, QLD 4000. QLD 4000. PERTH Carillon City, Murray St Mall, Perth CBD, WA 6000.

Hitchcock had that ability to really connect to people. But the thing that I’ve blatantly stolen at times is just that idea of really trying to see something through a character’s eyes: in Submarine, to take that Hitchcock paranoia and put it into a coming of age story where someone sees the world as if they’re in a film. Or in The Double, someone feels that they are wrongly accused, that they are being persecuted for no reason. One of the themes of The Wrong Man is how quickly you can fall from your position, how gossamer the situation is and, in a way, how you should value what you already have. Losing it can bring that into clarity, it makes you see who you really are.”

The Wrong Man is based on a true story, and Hitchcock even appears at the start and introduces the film as such. Unusually, it’s one of the few films in which he doesn’t make a wry cameo. But what’s so interesting about The Wrong Man is it’s one of the rare occasions Hitchcock isn’t solely in a studio environment - much of it is shot on location – so it doesn’t have the kind of lavish, dreamy opulence of Vertigo, which would be my favourite if it weren’t for this. And it doesn’t have the control of colour and light that Rear Window has, that goldenness – it’s black and white, grainy - almost like newsreel. 62

FOR A FULL LIST OF INTERNATIONAL STORES, USE THE STORE FINDER ON TOPMAN.COM

MIRANDA Westfield Miranda, 600 The Kingsway, Miranda NSW 2228. (Opening 2015)

THE FILM ISSUE