Indoor gardens and accessories. Greenhouse accessories. Automatic propagators. Capillary matting. Humexand Stewart products. External roll shades for greenhouses and Florida rooms.
Wanted! Baby food jars. We prefer the 3%0z. kind, but can use others as well. Please wash them out first!
We'll also be looking for plants for the house plant sale in October so please bear us in mind when bringing house plants in or dividing them. The sale will be on Oct. 17 - 19, with the plants brought in Oct. 16. We can use all kinds!
If you have any of the Wild Flower or Bird weekly date books for past years, we can use donations. Mrs. Smaller has generously volunteered to put the issues together into an illustrated flora for the library. All years from 1974 can be used.
Please note we have discontinued Wednesday evening openings. These have only had limited appeal since their beginning, and as the cost to the Centre was significant, we had to end them.
( FOOD PLANTS ANSWERS THAT WORK
Your Gateway To Year-round Pleasure
All year gardening is a hobby without peer now you can have a garden that blooms all year with a few hours care each week.
Carry summer into Winter, hasten Spring with your greenhouse garden. Extend your home living space with a thermally glazed conservatory.
Write today for your free copy of our colour brochure illustrating standard pre-fabricated greenhouses in lifetime aluminum, either single or thermal glazed.
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LORD & BURNHAM 'l (o P.O. Box428, 325WellandAve. I e St. Catharines, Ontario L2R6V9 I SEND NEW COLOUR BROCHURE TO: I Name
I Address I uity Prov. Code TN G T R SR G GEND SR thegreenhouse people . . . since 1856"
How to grow everything from parsley to fruit trees.Ken Reeves answers your questions and provides sources of up-to-date data for every region in Canada and the U.S. $6.95 at all bookstores. Published by
July, 1980
Volume 7, Number 4
In this issue
Cover picture: Yellow Iris photographed by Maurice Gonder.
Civic Garden Centre Financial Information/5
The year in review/6
Roses can t stand wet feet or can they?/7
Aqua-Terra/9
Intensive gardening/10
Programme Schedule July-December 1980/11 Now is the time/20
Publication Committee
James Floyd (Chairman), Jerry Maccabe, Mary Smith, William Stensson, Clive E. Goodwin
Editor: Fredrik Kirby
Advertising: Shirley Kirby (416) 226-0996
Graphics and Printing Drewmark Graphics, Toronto
General Information issno3so1470
Trellis is published in the months of January, March, May, July, September, and November and distributed on or about the 15th of the month previous by the Civic Garden Centre, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, Ontario M3C 1P2. Telephone: (416) 445-1552. The Centre is located in Edwards Gardens, at Leslie Street and Lawrence Avenue East, the geographical centre of Metropolitan Toronto. It is a non-profit gardening and floral arts information organization with open membership. Subscriptions to Trellis are only available through Centre membership (10 per year). Opinions expressed within do not necessarily reflect those of the Centre.
You can enjoy all these benefits when you subscribe to TRELLIS horticulture and gardening magazine.
You become a member of The Civic Garden Centre. You will receive special members rates on all courses. You receive TRELLIS by mail every two months. It contains timely articles by outstanding authors; how-to-stories and seasonal suggestions; news of events and courses held at The Civic Garden Centre.
4. You may register for craftcourses, see specialshows, hear qualified speakers.
5. You can borrow free from over 4,000 gardening books.
6. You SAVE 10% on purchases over $2.00 at the Garden and Book Shops.
[ wish to subscribe to TRELLIS and become a member of THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE. Enclosed is my cheque for $ made out to THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, Ontario M3C 1P2.
NAME
ADDRESS
POSTAL CODE PHONE
Donations will receive receipt for tax. (Reg. No. 0228114-56-13)
THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE
FINANCIAL INFORMATION FOR THE YEAR ENDED DECEMBER 31, 1978 AND 1979
AUDITOR S REPORT
We have examined the statement of financial position of The Civic Garden Centre as at December 31, 1979 and the statements of accumulated excess of revenues over expenses, and revenue and expenses for the year then ended. In our opinion, these financial statements present fairly the financial position of The Civic Garden Centre as at December 31, 1979 and the results of its operations for the year.
In her report to the Centre s Annual Meeting Mrs. Shirley Irvine recalled the comments of Mr. Ross in his 1978 report. He described the year as one of consolidation, and Mrs. Irvine said that in 1979 the Centre had been able to build on that foundation and begin to move towards the kind of vital, active focus for horticulture that is its prime purpose.
It was the most active year in the Centre s history, with workshops, outings, courses, exhibits, and shows throughout the year.
A major national nature art exhibit highlighted the art displays in the building, which also included children s art from across Metro. Talks and presentations ranged from lectures by world authorities to demonstrations for the absolute beginners. There were a series of valuable fund raising events, with a programme of garden tours and a fall house plant sale added to the nowtraditional spring plant sale, winter bouquet sale, and Christmas show and sale.
Mrs. Irvine acknowledged the enormous debt of gratitude the Centre owed to its volunteer force,pointing out that they made the Centre s operation possible by helping in a thousand different ways. She also thanked the Metropolitan Toronto Parks Department for contributions to the Centre, noting particularly that the plants in the building were provided and maintained by them.
The Centre was able to hold its expenditures very close to those in 1978, a remarkable achievement in a time of escalating prices and reductions in disposable income. However, Mrs. Irvine expressed concern about the future of the Centre. Its sources of funds were
limited and it had not got the secure funding sources available to most institutions ofits kind. Accordingly the Board had decided to embark on a fund-raising campaign, and had recognized that there would continue to be a need for on-going fund raising in the future. Mrs. Irvine appealed to all the Centre s members and friends to assist it financially, noting the services to the horticultural community were provided at cost, to encourage horticulture.
In closing Mrs. Irvine said horticulturalists are the envy of other interest groups. They do not have a fine building in which to meet and which promotes their interest. We have but it presents us with the responsibility to meet the challenges and ensure the continuation of our Civic Garden Centre. *
We care about your gardening problems. Come and see us at our unique Garden Centre and Greenhouses. =<
Roses capt stand wet feet or can they?
by Ross B. Linton
Since | expressed an interest in growing roses hydroponically, many people have indicated an interest and others have expressed skepticism.
Firstly, a word for the skeptics. My research has revealed that the rose was the first ornamental plant to be grown in hydroponics by Dr. W.F. Gericke. He was a professor with the University of California who attempted to transform laboratory style soilless cultivation into practical crop growing without soil. So successful was he that his soilless grown tomatoes grew more than 25 feet high and had to be harvested using ladders. It was he that named this new garden science hydroponics .
Perhaps the best proof that hydroponics is a practical way to grow roses is that commercial rose growers have used the technique successfully. In Colorado and neighbouring states, roses and chrysanthemums are grown extensively and in 1971 nurseries in those areas grossed over 24 million 100 thousand dollars from hydroponically grown flowers.
In my opinion, almost all commercial greenhouse gardening including growing roses may be described as hydroponic in that soil is no longer used but rather mixtures of perlite, vermiculite and peat moss are used and fertilizer is applied in solution. The only difference is that the true hydroponic system recirculates or conserves the solution in some way so that the nutrients and water can be used more efficiently.
The very famous rose breeders, the nursery that produced the Peace rose, the Meillands of France, use sand, not soil, to grow their roses in their greenhouses and feed their roses using fertilizer in solution.
Growing roses hydroponically interests me for a variety of reasons. My undergraduate background is economics, and economics has been defined as the efficient allocation of scarce resources. Advocates of hydroponics claim that the system not only saves labour and materials but produces better results in less time.
In this country, one of the chief problems which plagues the rose grower is winter-kill. How can the tender hybrid teas, floribundas, climbers, etc., be successfully overwintered? Many many articles have been written describing a variety of suggested solutions such as the Minnesota tip, burying roses in 4 foot deep pits, freezing the rose garden solid in ice, using rose cones or rose collars and so on. However, perhaps the most commonly suggested solution has been for the grower to lug large quantities of soil to the garden in the fall, hill up the bushes, unhill in the spring and cart it all away again. This solution is clearly unfeasible for the very old, the weak, the infirm or sick, the very busy person or even the very lazy, all of whom may wish to grow tender roses. | guess if they are rich or persuasive enough they could get continued on page 16
Aquoa-Terra
A revolutionary new product for lawns, gardens and indoor plants.
Specially
of use to the home gardener who cannot water regularly due to business, holiday or other travel commitments
A revolutionary new water storage product for indoor plants, balcony and patio plants, window boxes, hanging baskets and for outdoors in the garden. Excellent for bedding shrubs and trees of all kinds.
Aqua-Terra is a granular substance, resembling coarse whitish sand, that is capable of storing many times its weight in water. When water is added to soil containing Aqua-Terra, each granule absorbs the water and expands to form a gelatinous globule. These globules, suspended in the soil around the root system of the plant, provide water on demand. The root follicles in effect reach out, penetrate the gel-like cover, and extract the moisture as required.
The advantages are obvious. Instead of the water running through the soil to depths beyond the reach of the root system, it s held in storage until the plant needs it. The plant in effect waters itself with the aid of Aqua-Terra, eliminating the problem of over watering.
Agua-Terra begins to work when the regular water supply is consumed, allows worry-free time away from your plants.
The product has been successfully used in Europe, and in Saudi Arabia where agricultural produce and greenery now grow in former desert areas.
Aqua-Terra is non-toxic, is not a chemical and, is completely inert, will not react with fertilizers or pesticides. It s perfectly safe for use with food-bearing plants tomatoes, carrots, etc. It has no taste, no odour. Freezing and thawing do the product no harm. Aqua-Terra, in fact, works for years in the soil.
Aqua-Terra is particularly useful in plantings on balconies where wind quickly dries out the solil. It s super for hard-to-reach hanging baskets as waterings are reduced in frequency. When Aqua-Terra is mixed in with the soil around the roots when bedding plants are set out, it will help them through drought periods if you re not around to water. Another suggested use is to mix it in with the base soil before laying new sod. Plantings of new shrubs will benefit from the adequate water supply held in the soil by Aqua-Terra.
FALL TRANSPLANTING OF OUTDOOR PLANTS to indoors or when acquiring a new house plant is a good time to treat the soil around with root system with AquaTerra. It will not cause root rot because the gel shield surrounding the supply of water is not penetrated by the root hairs until the plant needs it. The expansioncontraction action of Aqua-Terra helps aerate the soil, improving drainage. Some experimenting will probably be necessary but a rough rule of thumb is that it extends watering frequency 3 to 5 times longer. If you water every other day, try once a week. If once a week, put them on a once-a-month schedule. One word of caution do not use Aqua-Terra for cactus. It stores too much water.
Aqua-Terra comes in convenient 100 gram envelopes or 5 and 20 kg bags for larger applications and is now available at White Rose Nurseries, Sheridan Nurseries, Reeves Florist and Nursery in Woodbridge, and the TRELLIS SHOP in the Civic Garden Centre.
Aqua-Terra is the easy, modern way to keep your plants happy and protected for years to come. Ask for it by name. Your plants are going to love you for it.
Intensive gardening enables you to orchestrate your garden production and fulfill your need for recreation and involvement with nature.
The foundation of intensive gardening is fertile, well-drained biologically active soil. This happy condition can best be reached by regular additions of organic matter, along with mineral nutrients if your soil is inherently poor.
Raised beds, either mounded up and leveled, or boxed in with frames, will multiply and simplify your production. Drainage, aeration and ease of weeding are improved. Because the well-drained soil warms up faster, plants grow more rapidly and develop to their full potential.
The selection of modern, diseaseresistant, high-producing varieties is a key element in intensive gardening. You may have a sentimental attachment to an old variety, but if you can specify a more productive and disease resistant modern variety that tastesjust as good, do! Old varieties are often susceptible to diseases and lack the vigor necessary to tolerate insect attacks.
Closely-spaced planting of some vegetables is an integral part of intensive gardening. It s ineffective, though, unless you keep soil fertility and moisture at near-optimum levels. You can broadcast seeds by scattering them over beds, or plant them in broad bands. Thick planting is used mostly for small vegetables that can be eaten as they are thinned; little is gained by crowding plants of larger species.
More and more gardeners are beginning to use inexpensive devices and structures to shelter vegetable plants from the cold. Bottomless plastic jars, canopies or hoods of
clear plastic film, sheets of fiberglass and coldframes of used window sash are all effective. These shelters can add a full 45 days to the growing season.
Orchestrating production from your garden requires planning. While some gardeners never draw a plan, preferring to make up a plan in their mind s eye instead, planning will help you use every square foot of your garden to its full potential.
The National Garden Bureau offers gardeners their NONSTOP VEGETABLE GARDEN PLAN. It contains illustrated plans for intensive spring, summer and fall gardens that can be adapted to most climates in the USA. Printed in two colors, the plan measures 17 x 22 inches and is designed for gardens up to 600 sq. ft. in size.
For your postpaid copy send $1.00 USA currency to:
National Garden Bureau Inc. 1186 Los Altos Avenue Los Altos, CA 94022 *
for the next 6 months
THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE
EDWARDS GARDENS
777 Lawrence Ave. East, Don Mills, M3C 1P2
PROGRAMME SCHEDULEJULY DECEMBER 1980
PROGRAMME SUBJECTTO CHANGE
Times for events from September on will appear in subsequent issues if available.
See Separate Listingfor dates and times ofgroup meetings.
July-August
July 6
August 9
August 10
August 16
September
September 10
September 10
September 11 -
September 13
September 14
September 15
September 15
September 17
September 20
September 21
September 22
September 24
September 26
September 27
September 27-28
September 29
Octaober
October 11
Exhibition ofFeather Pictures by Lana Kasak inthe Gallery.
Exhibition of art works by Marg Sawchuck in the Gallery
Your garden in the Fall Course starts
Flower Arranging Basic [ Course starts
Flower Arranging Basic [ Course starts
Junior Garden Clubs Show
Canadian Rose Society Show
Chinese Brush Painting Course starts
Botanical Art Course starts
Oriental Flower Arranging Course starts
Canadian Chrysanthemum & Dahlia Society Early Show
Canadian Chrysanthemum & Dahlia Society Early Show
Mushroom Show
Film The Philippine Eagle
A second outstanding movie from FREE, whose film on the Harpy Eagle was a highlight of the Centre s 1978 year. This magnificentandendangeredeaglehasneverbeforebeenfilmed in the wild.
Civic Garden Centre Winter Bouquet and House Plant Sale
Decorate your home for fall. Outstanding bargains in dried bouquets, and preserved plant materials, and house plants grown and donated by Centre members.
Dried Flower Workshop
House Plant Care Course starts
Getting Started in Chrysanthemums
A Hort. night tentatively planned in conjunction with the Canadian Chrysanthemum and Dahlia Society
Pine Cone Craft workshop
Exhibition of Paintings by Jim Shortt in the Gallery
Canadian Chrysanthemum and Dahlia Society Late Show
Botanical Art Course starts
Pressed Flower workshop
Come Stitch Your Garden Course starts
Corn Husk Craft workshop
Beginning with Orchids
A Hort. night tentatively planned in conjunction with the Southern Ontario Orchid Society
A group show of artists exhibiting at the Centre in the Gallery Deck the Halls
The Centre s Christmas Show and Sale, wholly organized and run this year bythe Garden Club ofToronto, with all the excitement and flair that they re famous for.
Don t miss it!
(New courses and major Centre functions are printed in bold type).
FLOWER ARRANGING COURSES
September 10
September 11
October 14
BASIC FLOWER ARRANGING 6 week course on Wednesdays, 1:30 p.m. and 8:00 p.m.
BASIC FLOWER ARRANGING 6 week course on Thursdays at 1:30 p.m. and 8:00 p.m.
These coursesofferthe beginner the principlesandelementsof good design in flower arranging. Fee: $20.00 members
CREATIVE FLORAL DESIGN 3 workshops from 10:00 to 3p.m.
These workshopsare intendedtostimulate interest intheartof Flower Arranging for those who wish to expand into more modern forms of design. Fee: $20.00 members
September 17
ORIENTAL FLOWER ARRANGING 3 week course on Wednesdays 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.
Mrs. Kadoguchi, renowned Sensei of the Ikenobo School, will
again givethisverypopularcourse. Branchesandflowerswillbe provided for approximately $2.50 a day. Fee: $20.00 members
WINTER BOUQUET WORKSHOPS
October 20
October 27
Nomember 3
November 10
DRIED FLOWERS
PINE CONE CRAFTS
PRESSED FLOWERS
CORN HUSK CRAFTS
Workshops are at 1:30 or 7:30 p.m.
Fee: $3.00 per session members, $3.50 non-members
4 sessions: $11.00 members, $13.00 non-members
WORKSHOPS AND COURSES
Registration is required for all classes and workshops
Please use the form provided on p. 15 and mail proper remittance. We regret no confirmation of registration can be sent.
September 10
September 15
YOUR GARDEN IN FALL Instructor Mr. Hal Price. Two week course on Wednesdays at 8:00 p.m. A basic course on the things agardener shoulddotopreparethegardenforthe winter and to assure the best results next year.
Fee: $7.00 members, $9.00 non-members.
BOTANICAL ART Instructor Homer Moelchert
6 week course on Mondays, 10:00 a.m. 3:00 p.m.
In this section of the series of Botanical Art classes which the Centre has been offering for the last three years, repeat students will be given the opportunityofdevelopingtheir skills in a medium of their choice. Instruction and guidance will be available in pencil, ink, charcoal, watercolour and oils. New studentswill be givenaseries ofexercisesinbasicdrawingskills in the mediaofpencil, charcoal, ink, andwatercolour. Drawing and painting activities will be supplemented by slides and discussion of selected artists representing various eras of art history.
Fee: $45.00 members $50.00 non-members
September 15
CHINESE BRUSH PAINTING InstructorsMoiraMudieand Patti Snell.
10 week course on Mondays at 1:30 p.m. 3:30 p.m.
This course will discuss the philosophy of Chinese Art, have guest artists demonstrating various techniques, practise some calligraphy, and generally introduce the students to the delight and intricaciesofthis delicateart form. There will be classes for both the absolute beginner and the more experienced artist. The course is also valuable for those wishing to improve their watercolour brush techniques.
Fee: $50.00 members, $55.00 non-members
September 26
September 27
RUG HOOKING Instructor Mrs. Clarke Sherbo
8 week course on Fridays at 10:00 a.m.
This is one ofthe Centre s most popularcourses. Thisfall basic rug hooking will be covered, and there will be instruction in crewel as applied to rug hooking for advanced students.
Fee: $32.00 members, $36.00 non-members
ANIMALS INTO ART Instructor Mr. Eric Nasmith
A one-day workshop starting at 10:00 a.m.
In this workshop Mr. Nasmith, the well-known bird and landscape artist, will discuss and demonstrate some of the techniques used both in the field and in the studio by animal artists. Birdsandotheranimals,withtheirrapidmovementsand constant changes of position, offer anespecialchallenge tothe artist. If the weather is goodmuch of this workshop will be conducted out of doors.
Fee: $12.00 members, $14.00 non-members
September 29
October 11
NEEDLEPOINT FOR BEGINNERS Instructors Mrs. Shirley Hartley and Mrs. Judy Crothers.
5 week course on Mondays at 1:00 p.m. and 8:00 p.m.
In this course a sampler will be worked, and students will be taught a wide range of techniques.
Fee: $20.00 members, $25.00 non-members.
GROWING HERBS INDOORS Instructor Mr. Barry Dimock.
Two workshops, on Oct. 11 and25, at 10:00 a.m. 12:30p.m. Fresh herbs are the answer to the good cook s need to give added zest and interest to cooking. Plant selection, care and cultureofherbs,soilmixturesandinsectcontrolaresomeofthe topics to be covered in these two workshops.
Mr. Barry Dimock of the Herb Homestead, plant consultant andfreelancewriterwhoseherbcolumninEarlyCanadianLife is well known, will share his experience.
Fee: $30.00 members, $35.00 non-members.
October 22
November 3
November 10
HOUSE PLANT CARE Instructor Mr. Hal Price. Sixweekcourse onThursdays at8:00p.m. A courseinthebasic care and maintenance of house plants, with emphasis on the practical.
Fee: $10.00 members, $12.00 non-members
BOTANICAL ART COURSE Instructor Mr. Homer Moelchert. See September for details.
COME STITCH YOUR GARDEN Instructor Mrs. Shirley Hartley.
Four week course on Mondays at 1:00p.m. Gardenall summer, thenstitch your garden this fall! Ifyouhave some previous experience with needlepoint an interesting project is to stitch the garden of your choice, and make a permanent record ofit in an attractive and unusual way. An example of this work will be displayed in the Centre.
Fee: $20.00 members, $25.00 non-members.
GROUP AND SPECIALTY GROUP MEETINGS
* Canadian Chrysanthemum & Dahlia Society: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: July 24, Aug. 21, Oct. 23, Nov. 27.
* Hobby Greenhouse: Starts at 8:00 p.m. on: Sept. 24, Oct. 29, Nov. 26.
* Green Thumbs: Starts 9:45 a.m. on: Nov. 8, Dec. 6.
CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE HOURS
Weekdays 9.30 a.m. to 4.00 p.m.
Saturdays and Holidays 10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m.
Sundays 1.00 p.m. to 4.00 p.m.
Library closed on Sundays and Holidays
THE CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE
777 Lawrence Ave. East, Don Mills, M3C 1P2
NAME (PRINT) MEMBERSHIP & PHONE NO.
ADDRESS CITY. CODE PLEASE REGISTER ME FOR THE FOLLOWING EVENTS CLASS OR WORKSHOP TIME EEE
O I would like to take advantage of reduced rates offered members and enclose $10.00 for my annual fee (add $2.50 for each additional family member) Total enclosed
Roses continuedfrom page 7 somebody else to do it for them. In an article in the 1978 Canadian Rose Annual, which has been called THE Canadian Rose Book, the article being entitled For The Sake Of Argument , I suggest a possible alternative which I call permanent hilling which is really just planting the topof the bud union or graft about 3 deep and not hilling. But this is not a solution for those who live where the temperature is really frigid in winter and for whom the growing season is so short. Advocates of hydroponics claim not only that the plants develop much quicker and grow much larger but they are easier to plant or transplant into the system.
A hydroponic system is a closed system so that it can be set up close to large trees with no fear of root invasion into the bed from the trees. What I would like to see produced or produce is an inexpensive practical outdoor hydroponic rose bed which can either have the bushes left in it over winter or can be used in conjunction with a winter storage shed in colder climates. Nurserymen harvest their roses in the fall, put them in storage over the winter, and sell them in the spring. Why can t an amateur rose grower pull his roses out of his hydroponic bed in the fall, put them in storage and replace them in the spring? Hopefully, I shall or your editor will persuade a nurseryman to write an article on the winter storage of roses as a sequel to this article.
There are a variety of hydroponic systems ranging from the very expensive and sophisticated to the very inexpensive and simple. Initially, [ am interested in exploring the latter. The more expensive use pumps, separate reservoirs, electric timers, plumbing, etc. The less expensive systems use a reservoir under the bed.
The basic decisions which have to be made if the reservoir system is used are (1) what should be used to make a reservoir to hold the solution, (2) what medium (instead of soil) should be used to hold the plants, and (3) what solution should be used to grow the plants.
What you use to make the reservoir depends on how much you want to spend and how permanent you want your system to be. Some experts advocate concrete reservoirs. In my opinion, in Canada where most areas experience frost problems, concrete is unfeasible without even considering the problem of the concrete affecting the adequacy of the solution. Other alternatives are polyethylene, vinyl, plastic or fibreglass. The authorities do not recommend metals because the solution tends to corrode the metal.
In an outdoor hydroponic system, you need a medium that will last. Apparently, vermiculite tends to breakdown and become a soggy mass. My research tends to indicate that pea gravel is the preferred medium. It has the virtue of being relatively inexpensive and is easily obtainable.
You can experiment with solutions, but, in my opinion, you probably would be best with aprepared solution purchased from a hydroponic supplier. This is what I propose to do this year providing it is not prohibitively expensive.
A local supplier of indoor hydroponic systems, Happytime Water Gardens of Newmarket, Ontario, has tested the pH level of our tap water and has ascertained that it is within tolerable limits. The pH level should not be below 5.5.
In the spring of 1979, linstalled an experimental rose bed. The bed was intentionally located in a shady spot in the garden and near to a large
maple tree. The lawn was marked by layinga 4 x 8 sheet of plywood on it in the fall of 1978. The sod was removed and the bed dug to a depth of 24 inches more or less. The bottom was sloped so that the solution would drain from one end to the other when the reservoir was emptied. A plastic waterproof tarp was purchased at the suggestion of Lola Thompson, a gardener from Newmarket. It was placed in the excavation to form the reservoir. The excess was trimmed off with scissors to make a neatjob. A ten foot length of 4 inch plastic drainage pipe and an elbow was purchased at Canadian Tire. The pipe was perforated and placed in the middle of the bottom of the reservoir. A plastic bag was placed over one end, the elbow was placed on the other end a low end the short piece was fitted into the elbow in a perpendicular position after having
been cut so that it would be flush with the top of the bed. The holes in the horizontal pipe were covered with plastic screen appropriately cut. The pipe was placed so that the holes were up. Pea gravel was added to a depth of 12 inches. Plastic screen was placed on top of the gravel, and then several layers of newspaper were placed over that. The bed was filled with a mixture of 50% peat moss and 50% sandy loam taken from the excavation. The bed was edged with 2 x 6 s laid flat with 2 x 2 edging on the inside edge. See figures 1 and 2 on the next page.
The roses were planted but not too deeply, of course, because to go deeper than 12 inches would go through the paper and screen. Two bushes of Burnaby (H.T.) were planted; two bushes of Aurora (C1.); an Aquarius (Gr.); a Royal Highness (H.T.) and a few others.
BOUNTY
Plant Food 6-2-2
Primarily from fish solubles
STURDY
Plant Food 0-15-14
For extra bloom and fruit
Promotes sturdy growth
TRUSTY Plant Food
6-8-6
An all-purpose food
A saferway toeffective plant control. Kills Aphids, Mealy bugs, White fly, Spider mites on Vegetables, Ornamentals, Shrubs andTrees. Charles Bateman Limited
PLASTIC BAG T OVER END
FIGURE 1
SIDEVIEW EXISTING BED
The reservoir was filled to a level of 10 inches and kept there. A measuring stick was used to check the level. The solution used was RX 20 at full strength one tablespoon to a gallon of water a solution which was much too strong. After | lost a couple of bushes and finally figured out what was wrong, I diluted the mixture to one tablespoon to 10 gallons of water. The reservoir holds 110 gallons.
When the solution was diluted, the roses which survived flourished. The Burnabys provided many beautiful creamy white blooms. The Royal Highness grew better than [ have been able to grow it before.
Cuttings struck very easily in the new bed.
The reason soil and peat moss were used was because of my fear that gravel would not offer enough
2% 6=
protection to the bushes from the cold and I did not propose to hill them up.
The bed has its faults. The reservoir is much too large. It takes too much water and fertilizer far more than is necessary. The next bed (see figure 3) will be designed to reduce the amount of solution required. An inexpensive plastic pump purchased at Canadian Tire is used to drain the reservoir which is drained every 2 to 3 weeks. There is an orthodox rose bed next to the hydroponic bed. The solution is drained into that bed, and the roses in it have never done so well. My bush of Chinatown (F1.) grew to about 6 feet last year, about 3 times as high as it has grown before.
The bed needs an overflow so that it will not overfill if there is a heavy rain.
4" PERFORATED PLASTIC PIPE WITH FALL TOWARDS ELBOW I PLASTIC ELBOW
2x6
33.3% PEAT MOSS
66.6% SAND
LAYER OF NEWSPAPERS ; PLASTIC SCREEN/" SOLUTION LEVEL
FIGURE 3 END VIEW PROPOSED BED
lSOLUTION INTAKE
PEAGRAVEL//S{@% 5 PLASTIC SCREEN
Since the bed stays wetter than | think it should, the proportion of peat moss probably should be reduced so that the proportion is about one third peat moss to two thirds sand or sandy loam. Sand probably would be preferable to avoid soil borne diseases which avoidance is said to be one of the virtues of a hydroponic system.
This fall I drained the bed for winter because the square sides probably would result in damage if it froze. A bed should be designed in such a way that it won t be damaged by freezing. The sides should be sloped rather than perpendicular. I tend to think that it would be better to leave water in the bed over winter.
In a larger system, it would be fairly simple to bring water underground to the bed using plastic pipe and maintain the proper solution level by using a float valve similar to that used in toilet tanks.
If the solution level drops, top it up by adding plain water because otherwise the concentration of the solution is liable to increase.
In a large enough system, it may be feasible to use a drip system using small perforated plastic pipe just under the surface of the bed serviced by a submersible pump.
May I apologize for not being able to offer more than just suggestions, but my experience is still limited although [ have done extensive reading on the subject. However, | hope if the results continue to be
good and there is enough interest to be able to be of more help in the next instalment, if there is one. If you grow roses hydroponically, are interested in doing so or you just want more information on the subject, [ would be very pleased to hear from you. My address is R.B. Linton, 96 Kennedy Street W., Aurora, Ontario, L4G 2L7.
Ross Linton, Q.C. is President of The Canadian Rose Society.
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Now isthetime
by Ernest Pope
" JULY 1st AUGUST 31st
Fertilizing It is best not to fertilize perennials, flowering shrubs or rose bushes after August 1st so that they will not be stimulated into late soft growth that will probably freeze duringthe winter. They should be allowed to gradually mature and harden off during the fall. The sapwill slowly descend into the root system rather than feeding new growth.
Annuals are an exception because they are eventually going to be killed byfrost, so we should encourage them to continue to grow and bloom as long as possible.
Similarly the compost pile should not be spread on the garden until the very late fall, (Nov. 15th) or first thing in the spring (April 15th). Otherwise undesirable late growth will result.
The writer recalls a gardener, who had beautiful climbing roses on the fences bordering his property. These has been quite hardy with little or no winter kill, even without protection. Then he started distributing his compost in late August only to find that in subsequent years there was substantial winter damage. He came to the conclusion that it was caused by fall stimulation. This conditionwas corrected by spring applications of the compost.
Enjoying yvour Garden July and August are the two months of the year when it is possible to get the most pleasure from our gardens. The heavy work of digging and the planting of annuals is over. Except for occasional staking and spraying it is possible to sit back at times and enjoy the results of our labours, a condition almost impossible during the spring.
It is a good time to make notes on what has been pleasing and to plan what we will repeat and what we will eliminate or transplant to another area next season.
Perennial Phlox This is one of the real mainstays of the August garden, especially if it is used as a background to annuals. Since it is continually shedding its flower petals it is usually more effective when viewed at a distance.
[t is particularly attractive for mass effect, and as a result at least three plants of the same variety and colour should be planted together, about ten inches apart in a triangular pattern. This will produce a large clump much sooner. The plants are heavy feeders, and require a soil with lots of humus, in full sun or very little light shade. A handful of general purpose fertilizer, such as 4-12-8, should be worked in carefully around the shallow rooted clumps in April, as well as compost if available.
The chief enemy of this perennial is mildew which if not controlled will completely envelop the plant, even causing it to shed its leaves. For many years this blight just had to be tolerated, but it can now be completely controlled by using the fungicide benomyl, dissolved in water as a spray.
Spraying should begin in mid June, and continued every three weeks until the bloom starts. The leaves and stems should be thoroughly drenched, both top and underside, also the soil at the base of the plants.
Fungicides are more effective as a preventative than a cure. If you wait until the mildew actually appears
Acti-Dione PM is then more effective in eliminating it, but the leaves are often scarred and distorted from the effects of the disease. :
Otherwise phlox is a relatively easy perennial to grow. Clumps, however, should be divided every three years for maximum bloom. Some of the colours are quite strong, and will clash if planted too closely together. Interspersing with white varieties helps this situation, as it does with many garden plants.
Phlox can be planted or divided in early spring (April 15 May 15) or in October. If the latter, a mulch should be applied the first winter.
Greenhouse Seeding
Mid-July is a good time to start seedlings such as calceolaria, cyclamen and schizanthus for winter bloom. All of these will bloom the following spring (Feb., March, April) except cyclamen, which takes 18 months before blooming. However, it is well worth the wait as in the writer s opinion it is the loveliest of all the better known blooming cool greenhouse plants.
All of these thrive best at night temperatures of 45%F (7°C). Obviously they will not do well in ordinary household temperatures. If your greenhouse is a warm one with minimum night temperatures of 60°F (15°C) and day ones of 75° (23°C) you should concentrate on tropical plants such as begonias and african violets.
Summer Care of Annuals
The natural function of annual plants is to produce seed as quickly as possible and then to deteriorate until they are eventually cut down by frost.
To have continuous vigorous bloom for a much longer period it is necessary to prevent early seeding or the plant will lose a great deal of its vitality.
The best way to do this is to remove the spent flower heads as
soon as they fade. This in itself stimulates the plant to greater effort to fulfill nature s purpose by producing more flowers.
This procedure is a drain on the plants and to assist their efforts a watering with a liquid fertilizer will work wonders. If it is after August 1st it is usually too late in the season to use the slower dissolving granular fertilizers especially if the season is on the dry side. As the summer progresses the leaves of annuals grown in window boxes or containers will often turn a very light yellowish green. This means a lack of nitrogen due to leaching as a result of frequent necessary watering. A liquid fertilizer will correct this situation within a week and restore the colour of the leaves to a healthy dark green.
Some annuals that benefit particularly from seed removal are Dianthus, Calendula, Cosmos, and especially Snapdragons. s Ernest Pope is on the Advisory Committee of the Civic Garden Centre and an active member of the Men s Garden Club andNorth Toronto Horticultural Society. He contributes regulary to TRELLIS.
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Toxicity and Hazards of Pesticides
Pesticides vary greatly in their toxicity to mammals, including humans. It is therefore very important for users of pesticides to be aware of the toxicity and the possible hazards associated with exposure to the chemicals to be used.
Hazard is often confused with toxicity, but the two terms are not the same.
Toxicity is the degree to which a substance is poisonous; that is, the ability of a substance to cause injury or death.
Hazard depends on both the toxicity and the exposure to the substance. Thus, hazard is the probability that injury will result from the use of a substance in a given quantity and given manner. A pesticide may be highly toxic, but present little hazard to the applicator or others if used:
-in a low dose and a dilute concentration, -in a formulation that is not readily absorbed through the skin or readily inhaled.
- only occasionally, and under conditions to which humans are not exposed, and - with respect, by knowledgeable and experienced applicators.
Similarly, a lightly toxic pesticide used in an irresponsible and reckless manner may represent a considerable hazard. *
Part ofan articlefrom Connecticut Greenhouse Newsletter, Jan. 1980, No. 96.
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Pesticide Shelf Life
The shelf life of pesticides is ultimately determined by storage conditions, stability, and formulation. Consult the label for any specific conditions for particular chemicals.
1. Store pesticides in a dry, wellventilated place at temperatures above freezing. Liquids will separate out after freezing and may not be usable.
2. Always keep a pesticide in its original container, and make sure that it is tightly sealed.
3. Store granular and powdered materials off the ground to avoid dampness. It is a good idea to keep these formulations in tightly-sealed plastic bags when not being used.
4. Keep the temperature under 33°C (100°F).
5. Keep an accurate inventory of the stored chemicals. Date the label when you purchase the material. Buy only enough material for one, and definitely not for more than two, growing seasons.
6. Keep herbicides completely separate from other pesticides to avoid cross-contamination. *
From Greenhouse Newsletter, Ontario Ministry ofAgriculture and Food.
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