CIVIC GARDEN CENTRE HORTICULTURE AND GARDENING MAGAZINE
WHY NOT ORCHIDS?
by Gerda Ferrington
If you are tired of Scheffleras, Dieffenbachias and ferns, why not try a few orchids? all as difficult to grow as is generally supposed and neither are they all that expensive. Although most of them bloom only once or twice a year, their flowers last on the plant as long as six weeks; some even longer with a bit of extra care.
duces only crippled blooms and if next year's flowers are better, They are not at you will be proud of doing well. If they are not, at least you will now it is not the plant's fault. It is most disheartening to have to wait for five or six years for the first blooms of that sturdy seedling you bought for five dollars.
As with all plant management, the thing to do is find out where a plant hails from and thus what its requirements are. Duplicate these as closely as you can and success is yours.
There are about 30,000 orchid species. Think of it: one in every ten flowering plants in this world is an orchid! And there are countless hybrids so of course you can find one to suit your growing area as well as your purse. With the advance of tissue propagation, even awarded clones are no longer out of reach for the average person.
For your first orchid, do buy a plant in flower. You will know what the flower is Tike instead of finding that your treasure pro-
Buy from a reliable source and be advised by the grower. Reputable firms have lists in their catalogues: plants for beginners, plants suitable for a Tight set-up, plants with fragrant flowers, miniatures. And of course they give blooming times so you can choose plants that bloom in winter when the average mortal needs flowers the most.
Orchids grow on trees (epiphytic- ally, not parasitically), on rocks (1ithophytic or rupicolous orchids) and in soil (the terrestrials, mostly the slipper types). Even terrestrials require very open soil for perfect drainage, far more so than suits your Dieffenbachia. High humidity is another must so it is good practice to stand the pots on
continued page 3
COMING EVENTS
November
In the Link Gallery: Isabel Agnew, watercolours
In the Auditorium: Eleanor Boston and Sylvia 0'Donnell, paintings
In the Studios:
November 8 to 17
Botanical Art Show by Civic Garden Centre students
November 1 Pressed flowers
1 Intermediate Needlepoint
Corn husk crafts
Attracting birds to your garden
20 TIkebana International Show 10.00 a.m. - 4.00 p.m.
December
In the Link Gallery: Pat Copeland, paintings of animals
In the Auditorium: The Horizon Group, paintings
continued page 2
MESSAGE TO MEMBERS
from T. W. Thompson
COMING EVENTS
continued from page 1
The new TRELLIS is now in its third already has the finest horticultural edition and the few comments we have received have been mixed. The biggest complaint seems less to do with content than with appearance and size. There is no question that the former publication was colourful but, put quite simply, that colour came at a price we cannot afford. Not only did we lose money; it cost more than the annual membership fee to produce and mail it.
The Civic Garden Centre cannot do without a publication circulated to its members. But likewise, members must realize that we work to a very small budget and that, were it not for an extremely willing group of volunteers and two very active and supportive garden clubs, we would be out of business.
This Centre has a great potential to serve the gardening public. It
library in these parts. It has the best horticultural book shop and a fine shop for gifts and garden supplies. The library has borrowing privileges for members and the shops a 10% members' discount. Our pricing policies are as low as any and, when the discount is applied, members get a bargain.
Come into our shops now and enjoy special big discounts during our Green Dot Sale. Stock up now on selected garden supplies, books and gifts.
What we really need is your support by visiting, taking courses and using the various services we offer.
We 1ike your constructive criticism so don't be backward. And if you would 1ike to write a story about your specialty for TrRerris, we'll welcome it.
GARDEN CENTRES
Where Great Gardens
Begin.
At your closest Sheridan Garden Centre you will find the finest selection of nursery stock in Canada, including more than 900 varieties of plants and trees grown on Sheridan 's own farms.
LANDSCAPE DEPARTMENTS: Metropolitan Toronto 621-9111 East Toronto/Markham 297-1499 Kitchener/Waterloo 743-4146
COURSES IN THE NEW YEAR
The following are courses scheduled to start early in 1983. Please mark these dates on your calendar now if you are interested and phone 445-1552 for an application form.
January 7 Rug hooking: 8-week course on Fridays
17 Beginners needlepoint: 5-week course on Mondays
17 Botanical art: 6-week course on Mondays
20 Perennials: 6-week course on Thursdays
Future course: Anyone interested in a "Painting on silk" course is asked to call the CGC, giving your name and whether you are interested in a daytime or evening course.
The full schedule of activities in ,..the new year will appear in the January TRELLIS as usual.
PEOPLE IN THE NEWS
Mrs. Douglas P. Bryce, a member of the Southern Ontario Unit, has recently been elected National President of the Herb Society of America. This is the first time a Canadian has held this office. Honorary President is T. W. "Tom" Thompson, Director of the Civic Garden Centre. Recording Secretary working with Mrs. Bryce is Mrs. Flavia Redelmeir.
MOUSE CONTROL
Gardeners with smooth barked shrubs such as euonymus, privet, lilac and many others as well as young fruit trees should be looking for activity by mice. The 1ittle rascals will find the bark of such plants a de1ightful winter food supply once the snow covers the ground. As a precaution, set out mouse bait now. But before you do, get rid of all refuse, long grass and other hiding places to make things more uncomfortable for them in the winter.
continued from page 1 wet pebbles in a tray but never with their feet in water. Clay pots, preferably slotted, ensure quick drying out between waterings.
On warm bright days, a good misting is also excellent. As with all house plants, incorrect watering is the chief cause of "sudden orchid death" syndrome. When you water, drench, do not trickle. Avoid pouring water on leaves and flowers. Rainwater is best, in my experience, but let tap water stand in a bucket overnight and it will do. Let the medium dry out between waterings. Use fertilizers in solution at half strength and stick to those recommended for different mediums (high nitrogen for bark, neutral for osmunda, etc.) Water less in winter and on dull days. Stick your finger into the pot to test for moisture and when in doubt, don't!
Temperature-wise, orchids are warm (night 18' to 21'C), intermediate (13" to 17C") or cool {7 to T0%C) growing. A distinct difference between day and night temperatures of
General Information
Volume 9, Number 6
Executive Director: Tom Thompson
Editor: Fredrik Kirby
Advertising: Shirley Kirby (416) 226-0996
about 5.5'C (10'F) is most important. Some require a resting period - cool, no water; others are photoperiodic. Some need very high light in order to set buds, for instance, the Vanda tribe that does superbly in Hawaii. Others make do with less and are good subjects under lights. The range is almost endless.
If fragrance is your thing, some will knock you over with their scent (both good and bad). If space is your problem, try the miniatures. These are the true enchanters of the orchid world, from one to fifteen centimetres tall, some with blooms as big as the plant!
If you only have a window sill, there are three kinds of orchids from which to choose. For starters, of course:
CATTLEYA, best known to us as in florists' corsages. These have pseudobulbs and thickened Tleafstems which act as reservoirs for water. If they shrivel, reconsider your watering system but watch out
Ferrington. for root rot. The number of hybrids is enormous: many have large fragrant blooms with strikingly coloured Tips. Give them the best 1ight you have and intermediate temperatures. Closest to the window is the ideal spot but beware of leaf burn.
PAPHIOPEDILUM, the lady-slippers, with mottled or plain leaves; the mottled Teaf forms need higher temperatures than the plain. Again,
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Trellis is published in the months of January, March, May, July, September, and November and distributed on or about the 15th of the month previous by the Civic Garden Centre, 777 Lawrence Avenue East, Don Mills, Ontario M3C 1P2. Telephone: (416) 445-1552. The Centre is located in Edwards Gardens, at Leslie Street and Lawrence Avenue East, the geographical centre of Metropolitan Toronto. It is a non-profit gardening and floral arts information organization with open membership. Subscriptions to Trellis are only available through Centre membership. Opinions expressed within do not necessarily reflect those of the Centre.
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Neofinetia falcata, one of the "spurred" orchids. A warm-growing miniature. Photo by G.
Now isthetime
by Ernest Pope
November 1 to December 31
SEEDING TIME AGAIN
Several of our most popular summer flowering plants, tuberous and fibrous begonias and geraniums, should planted during early January so seed should be ordered now.
Here are three excellent newer fibrous begonias.
Frilly Pink
One of the loveliest new annuals of recent years, especially for massed bedding. Beds of this begonia were an outstanding feature at the Cullen Gardens this past summer.
It is early flowering with unique large pink blooms enhanced with ruffled edges. The colour is delightful; the blooms stand well above the foliage. This variety should become extremely popular when it becomes better known. It was introduced by Ball-Superior Ltd. Plant seed January 15.
Foremost Red
Probably the finest dwarf red flowered, green leaved variety to date. with extra large blooms that are very sun tolerant. It is also an excellent border plant. There is an equally pleasing pink variety too. Plant seed January 10.
Height is six to eight inches
the first fibrous begonia of this type. It is most attractive.
Geranium
Rockford
A relatively new outstanding large flowered variety with lovely American Beauty coloured flowers. It was also featured at the Cullen Gardens Tast summer. Rooted cuttings and plants can be purchased at Pine Ridge Nurseries located on Brock Road North in Pickering.
FLOWERING WINTER BULBS
It is of course too late to start the hardy Dutch bulbs for winter flowering but two of the easiest and showiest bulbs can be started in late November and early December. They are amaryllis and paperwhite narcissus.
The latter should not be started until December 1 if you want vigorous and even growth. Starting. on that date will give you bloom during Christmas week. Try to buy the Israeli grown bulbs rather than the French as the former are much superior.
No bulb is easier to bring to bloom in as short a period of time or give a more spectacular display as the modern Dutch hybrid amaryllis.
Glamour series
This new class grows 12 inches high, with large single two inch flowers in pink, red, rose and picotee. They are particularly effective when massed, especially if the centre stem is nipped when planted out in the garden.
These plants are hard to find at most nurseries but this should change as they become better known. Seed should be planted by February 1 and should not be covered as it is light responsive. Picotee has a white centre with orange edge,
It is very difficult to get them to bloom in subsequent years as the bulbs shrink in size. In the writer's opinion, it isn't worth the effort required.
CHRYSANTHEMUMS
While garden mums are referred to in the nursery catalogues as hardy perennials, all too often this does not turn out to be the case as evidenced in 1981 and 1982. The safest way to bring them through the winter is to dig up the clumps just before the ground freezes and put them in a cold frame. If you can't, or don't wish to do so, it is wise to cover them with evergreen boughs or straw.
No matter which method you use, the clumps of chrysanthemums should be divided each spring if the number and size of the flowers is to be maintained.
WINTER HARDINESS
With record cold temperatures during the past two years, a number of flowering shrubs and trees that previously were hardy only as far north a Zone 6A (including Metro Toronto) may not be able to survive our climate if the trend continues. or suffered serious damage. Most of them either died
Japanese flowering
These include: cherries, laburnum, rose of Sharon, weigela, kerria, redbud, and even climbing roses unless laid down and covered.
If subsequent winters do not moderate, the Department of Agriculture may have to revise its hardiness map. turn to normal. Let us hope our winters re-
Ernest Pope is on the Advisory committee of The Civic Garden Centre and an active member of the Men's .Garden Club and the North Toronto Horticultural -Society. tributes regularly to TRELLIS. HE"eon=
We care about yourgardening problems. Come and see us at our unique Garden Centre and Greenhouses.
SUCCESSOR TO CHLORDANE
There's a new product on the market that is said to control many of the pests usually treated with chlordane.
Many of the past advantages of chlordane are now considered 1iabilities. Chlordane is a very persistent chemical which should only be applied to control soil insects once in four years. Soil residues are of great concern to many people because they may contaminate root crops such as carrots and turnips and it is illegal to use it for soil treament for many root crops.
Furthermore, it is claimed that serijous resistance has been developed in many insects formerly controlled by chlordane such as cutworms, root maggots and white grubs.
The name of the new chemical is chlorpyrifos, a broad spectrum insecticide, but you will probably find it merchandised under trade names having no resemblance to its chemical identity.
One of its advantages is that it can be used every year as soil or foliar treatment on turf, in gardens or on house plants. It can also be used as a surface spray for certain indoor pests such as ants, carpet beetles, crickets, silverfish and a number of others.
On vegetables, it controls cutworms, potato flea beetle and tarnished plant bug; on lawns, white grubs, chinch bugs and ants. For ornamentals, the warning indicates that it should not be used on roses, azaleas, camellias, poinsettias, geraniums, oxalis, coleus or varjegated ivy. Except for those, it can be used to control earwigs, cutworms, white grubs, either as a soil or foliar spray.
Like many other chemical concoctions, there is a fairly long list of precautions and warnings, none very unusual. When it was originally registered, chlorpyrifos was approved only for soil insects and ornamentals. Now it can be used on a broader basis.
1%" POCKET SEAL with either LIBRARY OF or EX LIBRIS , 3 initials and name of person.
Prints from right side of page.
continued from page 3 a huge number of hybrids with brilliant colours and widely varying flower forms. Excellent under lights. They need less light than Cattleyas. Intermediate to warm.
PHALAENOPSIS, the moth orchid. Marvellous as a house plant. The long flower spikes go on producing flowers for months on end and if the spike becomes unwieldy, cut it off above two or three nodes. If the plant is happy, it will sprout a branched flower spike for you. Do not let this one get bone-dry between waterings. Choose a good hybrid whose leaves do not get too large. There are several novelties with striped or mottled flowers in a whole range of colours except blue. Give filtered 1ight only and grow warm.
For its first year as your orchid pet, do not disturb the plant. If it looks happy, leave it alone. When it gets too big for its pot, take it to an experienced orchid lover and ask for repotting and/or dividing assistance.
Nowadays, every nursery worth its salt carries orchid potting materials: bark, tree fern, osmunda and mixes, as well as fertilizers specially formulated for orchids. Orchid books abound and orchid societies flourish. It is a far cry from the first years of orchid interest, in the late 1700s and early 1800s, when orchids were the preserve of the wealthy and when so little was known about the areas where the plants were collected that for a long time every orchid was put into the "stove house", the warm greenhouse. It is a miracle that so many of them survived.
Orchid books of those days gave formulae for potting mixes almost invariably containing long strand sphagnum moss. It is fascinating to read in present day orchid articles about the miraculously curative powers of Tong strand sphagnum moss, particularly for some difficult Paphiopedilums. The old authors must be snorting in their graves.
Gerda Ferrington is a member of the Southern Ontario Orchid Society and is currently a trained judge in the American Oorchid Society judging program.
Specializing in Miniature Roses For 1982 Listing write Florence Gahagan
P.O. Box 873, Guelph, Ontario N1H 6M6
0 Ontario orcelain
presents the 4th ANNUAL FALL SHOW AND SALE handpainted porcelain
Sunday November 7, 1982 10.00 a.m. to 4.00 p.m.
Civic Garden Centre Edwards Gardens
Leslie St. and Lawrence Ave. E.
$1.00 admission includes:
Demonstrations by Guild members and special draws for handpainted china
EVERGREENS FOR ALL SEASONS
based on an article by G. P. Lumis, Department of Horticultural Science, Ontario Agricultural College
When someone says "evergreens", most of us think of the tall stately pines, spruces and firs.
The true meaning of evergreen is a plant that keeps its leaves during the entire year. Included are such plants as bearberry, English ivy, wintercreeper euonymus, rhododendrons, southern magnolia and some species of oaks. Obviously, these are not conifers.
Before we consider how easy evergreens are to grow and how they can enhance the beauty of lawns and gardens, let us examine briefly the basic groups.
First, there are the needled evergreens and second, the broadleaf evergreens. Both types are important and valuable additions to any landscape.
During the summer, evergreens provide an amazing array of forms, textures and colour. Winter is a special time for many evergreens because they still provide their green foliage and become bases for interesting and beautiful snow sculptures.
in bundles of two or five.
Among the conifers there are rather few groups (genera) of plants but many individuals (species and cultivars) within the groups. Pines have long needles which are grouped Spruces and firs have single needles which spread from the twig at an angle.
The junipers are a very large group of conifers including hundreds of types. They have very small needle1ike leaves and range in height from only a few centimetres to 15 metres tall. Other conifers include eastern hemlock, false cypress, the deciduous larches and dawn-redwood.
CONIFERS
Some representative conifers have been grouped in three lists, all of which will grow in southern Ontario.
One 1ist is of large trees, taller than five metres; another of intermediate types two to six metres tall; and a third group of small, low growing forms less than two metres high. None listed should winterkill in southern Ontario.
The Tists are not meant to be extensive. Many of the plants listed can be used as accent or specimen plants in landscape plantings.
Large conifers (more than six metres)
Abies concolor: white fir, concolor fir; Zone 4; 18 to 30 metres; pyramidal, greyish-green colour; tolerates dry soil and city conditions better than other firs.
Picea abies: Norway spruce: Zone 2b; 18 to 30 metres; pyramidal; as an older tree with gracefully drooping branches; medium to dark green needle colour; specimen.
Picea pungens var. glauca: blue spruce; Zone 2; 12 to 24 metres;
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dense pryamid; stiff horizontal branches; needle colour ranges from light to very deep blue. Named cultivars such as Hoopsii, Moerheimi are brightest blue, perhaps too often used as front Tawn specimen.
Pinus nigra - Austrian pine: 12 to 21 metres; medium to broad pyramid, flat-topped when old; needles long and stiff. One of best conifers for city conditions and windbreaks; moderately fast growing.
Small low growing conifers
Zone 4; (Tess than 2 metres)
Juniperus horizontalis 'PlumosaAndorra juniper: Zone 2; 50 cm; compact flat top with an eventual spread to 2 metres; plume-Tlike branches with purple fall colour; specimen or mass planting.
Thuja occidentalis - eastern white cedar: Zone 3; 5 to 14 (19) metres; compact pyramid; medium to dark green foliage, fine texture; withstands heavy pruning; large screen or hedge.
Intermediate conifers (2 to 6 metres)
Juniperus chinensis 'Mountbatten'Mountbatten juniper: Zone 4; 3 to 4.5 metres; more or 1ess narrow pyramid; dense, needles grey-green, sharp to touch; requires only occasional shaping; specimen or hedge.
Juniperus chinensis 'PfitzerianaPfitzer juniper: Zone 4 (5); 3 metres; broad, dense more or Tless flat-topped shrub; medium green; specimen or large border plant.
Japanese yew: metres; either or an upright
Taxus cuspidataZone 4; 4.5 to 15 a spreading shrub tree depending on type; needles dark green, soft; withstands clipping and shearing; grows well in shade.
PRUNING SPECIALIST
All types of trees and shrubs pruned properly
Tree pruning Insured Willing to barter
Brian Sinclair 762-5828 anytime
city gardens
Tropical Plants
Sales and Maintenance
lan A. McCallum, B.Sc.(Agriculture) 446-1040 9:00 - 5:00 Monday to Friday
Juniperus horizontalis 'Wiltonii'blue rug juniper: Zone 2; 15 cm high and eventually 2 metres spread; very flat growing; needles silverblue; moderate grower; a ground cover.
Taxus cuspidata 'Nana' - dwarf Japanese yew: Zone 4; 1.2 to 1.8 metres, eventually wider than high, compact; needles dark green; slow growing, grows well in shade; specimen, formal or informal hedge.
Thuja occidentalis 'Woodwardii'globe white cedar: Zone 3; 1 metre; globe-shaped round in youth but eventually twice as broad as high; dark green; slow growing; specimen; low border plant or hedge; requires Tittle trimming.
BROADLEAF EVERGREENS
These provide an important addition to the conifers because they include shapes, forms, textures and flowers which complement as well as contrast most conifers. Some grow tall with moderately large leaves and spectacular flowers while others are not as conspicuous but just as useful. The following list includes some of the most widely used in southern Ontario.
Buxus microphylla var. Koreana = Korean boxwood: Zone 5; 1.2 metres; rounded to oval shrub; leaves 1.5 to 2 cm long and medium green; grows well in shade; responds well to clipping; accent specimen or hedge.
Cotoneaster dammeri - bearberry cotoneaster; Zone 4; 10 to 15 cm high; very low trailing shrub; leaves 2 cm long and dark green; small white flowers and small red fruit; grows well in shade; best as a ground cover.
Euonymus fortunei 'Vegetus' - bigleaf wintercreeper: Zone 5; height
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is variable; as a wall climber may reach 9 metres; as a ground cover it may be 0.7 metres tall; fruit bright orange; best in shade; a ground cover or wall climber.
Pyracantha coccinea - scarlet firethorn: Zone 6; 1.8 to 2.5 metres; irregular to open shrub with dark green leaves and thorns on branches; showy white flowers in June and red to orange fruit later in season; tolerates pruning; specimen; several selections available.
Vinca minor - periwinkle or mrytles.. Zone 3 to 4; 12.to-25 cn tall; low trailing stems forming dense mat; leaves 3 to 4 cm long and dark green; blue flowers mostly in late April and May; best in partial shade; ground cover.
GROWING YOUR EVERGREENS
Evergreens are not difficult to grow. With some degree of care, they grow very well and mature into fine specimens. Perhaps one of the most important considerations is to remember that during the winter the leaves of evergreens lose moisture. When the soil is frozen, the roots are unable to absorb water. If leaf moisture is not replenished, the leaf or needle dries out and may die. This leaf injury caused by desiccation is most severe in an exposed, sunny, windy location.
Conifers such as junipers and many pines and spruces normally tolerate exposed conditions. Broadleaf evergreens are particularly sensitive to exposed conditions because of their large leaves in comparison to conifers. For this reason, a protected location is better for them.
In recommending soil conditions, we should look at two extremes. First is the "ideal"; a deep, fertile Toam with an adequate supply of moisture and a pH in the slightly acid range. Nearly every evergreen will grow well in an "ideal" soil. But soil conditions are often far from "ideal" so the second consideration is the extremes which plants endure and still grow acceptably.
Junipers, for example, will survive in dry, infertile soil with an alkaline pH probably better than any other group of conifers. Pines will
also grow in dry soil Tow in fertility and organic matter. Neither junipers nor pines (white pine is an exception) will grow in a wet soil. Spruce, hemlock, false-cypress and most firs require adequate soil moisture. Yews require a soil with adequate water but will not survive "wet feet" or poor drainage. An additonal requirement for yews is a slightly acid soil.
Broadleaf evergreens grow best in a fertile loam soil with adequate water. In a sheltered location, soil moisture and temperature will be Tess extreme.
Evergreens are among the most beautiful and the most important plants in our landscapes. By knowing their characteristics and their tolerances we can use them to their best advantage.
White Rose
NEW IN THE BOOKSHOP
Look to the Rose by Sam McGredy illustrated by Joyce Blake Charles Scribner's Sons, New York. C 1981. $35.50
As all rose lovers know, Sam McGredy is one of the best known hybridizers of the world. In this book he describers over fifty varieties of roses. His style is chatty but he is informative too. He mentions a rose's outstanding qualities as well as its lesser points. He gives the name of the breeder, the place and date of the cross and its parentage. Joyce Blake's water colours are gorgeous. Got a rose-lover in the family? Here's the ideal present.
