Peru I Trekking with Llamas, Peru's Cutest Hiking Guides

Peru’s Cutest Hiking Guides

by SARAH SEKULA

Photo: Courtesy of Sarah Sekula

I lock eyes with Labrayani, a 300-pound llama on the trail behind me. He tilts his head and flicks his ears back. While he pauses, I get a good look at those long lashes, his awkward underbite, and knobby knees.

It’s impossible not to crack a smile.

Labrayani is my hiking companion for a trek through Peru’s Ausangate Mountains, and he happens to be the head honcho of the llama posse. For that reason alone, he gets to sport the most decorations. We’re talking hot pink ear tassels, a pompom necklace, and a decorative saddle. He’s a camelid with style.

We’re at 14,000 feet on day one of a two-day trek I booked on a whim, hoping to combine my passion for challenging hikes in far-off lands with my preference for not carrying heavy things. My buddies amount to one guide, two herders, one horse, and five llamas. Together we are, quite literally, following the same paths the Incas took thousands of years ago—an extensive system of trails created by ancient llama herders.

For avid hikers, this is a dreamy mishmash of terrain. One that is full of impressive peaks, impossibly blue lakes and pasture after pasture of llamas and alpacas. Our route through the Vilcanota range is one of the highest treks in Peru. The rugged journey will be made a bit easier with llamas as our sherpas.

For thousands of years, these trusty animals have made life possible in the Andes by carrying goods from village to village. Fast forward to today and the llamas are also used for trips like mine, where hikers travel from one lodge to the next.

Photos Courtesy of Sarah Sekula

We begin our foray into the wilderness at a steady pace. Gradually, we ascend through a valley, home to some of the highest potato crops in the world. Before long, we meet a herd of about 100 alpacas. Several young ones sport new hairdos. Fluffy wool on the tops of their heads sticks straight up while the wool on their bodies is trimmed close – all making their periscope necks appear comical.

I’m beside myself with delight. I glance over my shoulder and Labrayani is still there, grinning peacefully. It’s already apparent that this will be no ordinary hiking trip.

Besides getting schooled on the landscape and culture, I’m learning loads about llamas. They are low maintenance, dependable, and calm for the most part. They leap over streams surprisingly well, are natural grazers – so there’s no need to bring food along – and they can carry up to one-third of their body weight. Not to mention their funny noises include snorts, sneezes, belches, and even high-pitched squeals when predators are near. It’s a treat getting to know their personalities.

“Some of them are kind of cranky, and some of them are actually really social,” says Bruno Lopez, my guide. “I’ve seen a few llamas put their necks on top of people’s heads when they are taking photos.” Bruno knows every inch of this area and leads us from one stunning valley to the next. We pass uplifted granitic cliffs, tumbling streams, and limestone forests. Millions of years of geologic history. “Everyone has their favorite day,” says Lopez. “It’s very peaceful, very far from civilization, far from the cities.” And he’s right. We see only a few other people over the course of the day, allowing me to fully immerse myself in the dramatic topography.

The scenery, he explains, was created by several tectonic forces and the presence of minerals is very high. Silver, copper, and iron are scattered as far as the eye can see. This explains why several mountains have a beautiful red hue. And why I keep spotting rocks that any geologist would envy.

At sunset, a steep march up a rocky hillside brings us to the best views yet. The jumble of snowy peaks to our left is known as Nevado del Inca. To the right, neon-green grass and moss-covered rocks dot the Ausangate mountainside. Straight ahead, I see the vivid hues of the Red Valley. The icing on the cake is a bright blue lagoon where llamas are grazing.

We arrive at our eco-lodge, a twostory abode where we are greeted with a warm meal that could rival the best restaurants in Cusco, and coca tea to ward off altitude sickness.

As we warm up by the fire, Bruno tells me that the lodgekeeper, Mario, used to make regular threeweek treks from this area to the Amazon and back for trading— with his family in tow, no less. This reminds me how hardy the local Quechuan people are. I’m utterly fascinated by how they’ve adapted to this extreme environment. I am told I might be able to adjust to this altitude if I spent a year here. But I have my doubts.

We chat about the following day’s adventures, which will culminate at Rainbow Mountain, a 17,060-foothigh beauty. Created by mineral deposits, its psychedelic bands of turquoise, lavender, red-violet, and gold are quite a spectacle.

After a hearty Andean breakfast, we load our gear and resume our hike, donning rain jackets this time. Hail is beginning to fall through the thick layer of fog and, within 20 minutes, snowflakes appear. Instantly, the sweeping landscape looks even more magical.

After a few hours of trekking, I point out what looks like lines of large white polka dots crisscrossing the side of a red mountain in the distance. Bruno explains that this is snow that has filled in the llama footprints. Every now and then, the llamas wander off the trail and up the mountainside. With their soft padded feet, they don’t have much impact on the ecosystem. Each time this happens, one of the herders nimbly sprints after them and coaxes them back into the lineup.

Increasingly popular with travelers from Canada, the United States, and Europe, these treks go a long way to help isolated communities preserve their economies, cultures, and ancestral ways. The fact that the fluffy porters are so darn cute is just an added bonus.

Call us to book your own llama trek adventure today!

SHINE ON, DETROIT

by BRYAN SHELMON

ON THE WATERFRONT

Detroit Riverfront Visitors weave between joggers along the city’s 2.5-mile paved riverfront path, voted the “Top Riverwalk in the U.S.” this year by USA Today. A stroll in the cool shade of the Ren Cen, Detroit’s tallest building, leads to the Cullen Plaza carousel and dining en plein air at the Riverwalk Café.

Belle Isle Tourists tip-toe the U.S.-Canada border on Belle Isle, Detroit’s treasured island park, where a scenic “ring road” cruises past the Beaux Arts aquarium designed by architect Albert Kahn to popular Belle Isle Beach. Long known for its grit and hustle, today’s Detroit is a lot more than its automotive heritage and Motown hits. Thanks to industrious locals with an eye for the future, the city has become a cultural hotspot, a popular stop for Great Lakes cruises, and home to major tech firms, trendy eateries, and riverside leisure hangouts.

ALL AROUND THE TOWN

Detroit Brew Trail With more than 450 breweries, Michigan ranks among the top 5 states in the U.S. for craft beer. A self-guided crawl takes enthusiasts from breweries founded in the 1800s to the trendy craft brews bubbling up in modern suburban Detroit.

See the D Walking Tour Art Deco masterpieces, riveting stories, art alleys, and Insta hotspots. A walk through Detroit with expert guide Karin Risko feels like a fun-filled stroll through town with a long-time friend.

Detroit People Mover Detroit’s answer to moving with efficiency follows a counter-clockwise loop on an elevated light-rail with stops at the Renaissance Center, riverfront, financial district, Greektown, and more.

Credit: Taylor Douglas Higgins

Books + Folk Café Cross the Skywalk at the Somerset Collection and walk through the bookshelf-style entrance of Books + Folk—a charity-benefiting collab between Corktown’s Folk Market, Coffeehaus Roastery, and Assouline Books. Order The Chai Latte and marvel at the beautiful hand-bound books. Detroit Central Market breathes new air into Henry Ford’s Greenfield Village. Restored to its original 1860 glory, this sheltered farmer’s market is a blast from the past with local vendors, cooking classes, and live shows.

Detroit Fleat Market brings the food truck park concept to the Motor City. Sip on booze-infused signature Slooshies while your order is prepared. The indoor seating area makes this an excellent year-round dining spot.

Credit: Detroit Fleat Street Marketing Credit: Breadless

Breadless The classic sandwich, reimagined with more lettuce and no bread. Breadless is one of Detroit’s trendiest newcomers for healthconscious eaters or foodies looking to fill their Instagram feeds. Hashtag “supergreens,” because these delicacies will “leaf” you with a smile on your face.

THE PRINCESS WILL SEE YOU NOW

Detroit Princess Riverboat One of the city’s most beloved heritage boats, offers regular lunch and dinner cruises, special holiday themed sailings, and the unique vantage point of seeing the sun set behind Detroit’s skyscrapers.

TELL YOUR FRIENDS YOU STAYED HERE

Shinola Hotel A Detroit-based lifestyle brand known for luxury watches and craft leather goods (and now hotels) immerses guests in hand-crafted hospitality. Stylish rooms exhibit Shinola’s fine craftmanship and leatherwork. The in-house art collection and gift shop are reason enough to visit. For drinks, try The Brakeman beer hall or the Evening Bar—serving cocktails like the Cruel Summer, Life Coach, and Do Tell.

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