17 minute read
FASHION
Community Through Activewear
Transcendent Activewear Builds Relationships
By Kevin CzerwinsKi
The unbridled ball of energy that is Aja Cohen took a quick sip of tea while sitting in a Ridgewood coffee shop, a pause long enough to collect her thoughts but not so long that there would be a lapse in the conversation. The Teaneck resident was describing how her life seems to be moving a thousand miles an hour since starting her business, Transcendent Activewear, nearly two years ago. Cohen, 39, is a wife and mom and has become quite the juggler in the last 24 months, learning how to balance her personal life with the responsibilities of heading a company that is growing, seemingly by the day. She is a fashion designer by trade, schooled at the Brooklyn-based Pratt Institute before making her bones in the ultra-competitive fashion world of New York City.
It is her love of fashion that has turned her business manufacturing eco-conscious yet modest active wear for women into one of the fastest growing clothing lines in the industry. However, it is the relationship with her religion that ultimately helped put the diminutive West Paterson native in the position to create her own company.
Cohen, who was raised Roman Catholic, converted to Judaism more than a dozen years ago and lives the life of an observant follower of the faith. Her clothing line reflects the modesty that accompanies her beliefs but in a way that makes the pieces she creates modern and trendy. So, as she sits in that Ridgewood coffee shop, looking fashionable and stylish, it’s easy to get caught up in the excitement of her world, one that has seen her successfully merge two very different aspects of her life.
“I didn’t expect this,” Cohen said of her business’ growth. “It’s not like I have anyone backing me [financially], either. Unemployment paid for the launch of my business so in that respect I am very grateful for COVID-19. COVID-19 opened my eyes to so many things. I’ve been able to run a business from my home phone, in my own basement. From that standpoint, it’s been awesome, such a blessing.”
She’s certainly come a long way from when she was a teenager just hoping to somehow get across the Hudson River and into New York City to begin a career in fashion.
HEADING ACROSS THE RIVER
Cohen grew up in West Paterson, but her family moved to Montville in Morris County as she reached high school and eventually began looking for where she would attend college. Fashion had been a fascination for years by that point so that is where her thoughts on furthering her education took her.
“I learned how to sew when I was in middle school in West Paterson and it just took off,” Cohen said. “I was making different outfits
don’t love cold water when it’s cold outside? Squeeze some citrus into your water. Then drink it at room temperature or warm it up into a cozy tea. Now you know why you want that cookie, cocktail or bowl of mac and cheese, and you also know you’re going to eat it anyway. I say, go right ahead! If that’s what you want, there’s nothing else that will taste as good or fill that need. But then it’s important to plan the rest of your day. Decide you’re going to eat a salad for dinner. Or, if salads don’t appeal during these frigid winter months, treat yourself to a plate of well-seasoned roasted veggies or a delicious pureed vegetable soup. Planning your indulgences and then maintaining a healthy food balance will make it easy for you to give yourself permission to indulge. Oh, one other thing, if you do need that cookie, try my recipe. It has all the flavor and decadence with just a little extra nutrition thrown in for good measure. Pro Tip: Just before you turn in for the night, mix yourself a “cocktail” made up of warm water, apple
for dances, parties and then I did costumes for high school plays. I was very involved in the arts program in Montville High School. I begged my parents to send me to FIT [The Fashion Institute of Technology in Manhattan]. cider vinegar, lemon and cinnamon. The ingredients in this drink will mitigate your blood sugar response. If you’ve had a few too many carbs, drink this to reset your body for the next day. But then, do commit to eating those veggies for the rest of the week. Taking “That was my first escape out of New Jersey. And the long view will keep you on track. then I went [to FIT] over the summer to take business of fashion and drawing classes. The next summer I wanted to go back but I went to the School of Visual Arts. Then I applied to Pratt Institute [in Brooklyn]. It was a great choice. I stayed there [in the city] and lived in Brooklyn for the next 15 years.” Speaking of planning, the more of it you do, the better off you will be. Map out your meals and workouts for the day, the week or the month, whichever feels most manageable for you. Write it all in your calendar with alerts. Plans, written out where you can see them, help you stay balanced and keep you honest. Remind yourInternships and a post-college trip abroad followed and when she returned to the States, Cohen’s career began in earnest with stints at Aeropostale and Conself that alcoholic beverages add up so if you’re going to indulge, treat booze as your dessert, not as part of your meal. verse before she designed activewear for Fila and Champion. Food isn’t the only thing you should plan; workouts and sleep are just as important. If you have to, make “In fashion you move around a lot,” Cohen said. a bedtime date with yourself each night. Sleep is the number one way you can help your body by cutting down on inflammation, increasing energy and, importantly, curbing sugar cravings. You’re much more likely to make good eating choices after a solid night
“When I took the job at Converse, it was my first foray into designing activewear. I was designing a basketball line for Dwayne Wade. I also had a good friend at Fila who taught me everything about activewear. He was my mentor and remains the person I call for advice.” EMBRACING JUDAISM Cohen’s personal journey of learning and growth mirrored her professional journey when she converted to Judaism at 23 after her experience with Catholicism had left her wanting more. She found what was missing shortly after she left New Jersey and it seems that it happened almost accidentally when she was introduced to Judaism by her first college boyfriend. She began reading books about and studying Judaism while also attending synagogue. While Cohen’s relationship with her then boyfriend eventually came to an end her newfound love of Judaism continued to blossom, culminating with her conversion after college. While Cohen’s family wasn’t quite sure what to make of her conversion, they ultimately accepted her decision, especially since she remained true to her Italian roots and ultimately moved back to New Jersey. Continued on page 44
Cohen’s faith and her being part of a new community led her down a path that ended with her meeting her husband, Evan.
The two were married in 2010 and have three children, Raina, 9, Shua, 7, and Levi, 3. The couple ultimately settled in Teaneck, where Cohen said she loves living because it is a diverse and open community with people of many faiths.
“When I met Evan, it was pretty quick,” Cohen said. “We got engaged a year later and were married six months after that. We wanted to become more observant together. When I had gotten together with Evan, we decided we wanted to keep Shabbat [the Jewish day of rest that takes place from sundown on Friday to sundown on Saturday during which those who observe don’t drive, use phones, spend money or travel]. It’s the mindfulness of the practice. I’m such a busy person but to have that day to shut off was this great thing and I am so grateful for that. You can kind of be just ‘ah.’”
The couple were married at The Brownstone in Paterson, a wedding venue and catering hall owned by her uncles.
“It was nice to have the Jersey-ness and the Italian side,” she said. “The wedding was a real blending experience of both sides. It was a great party and was amazing to see both backgrounds together. We were able to bridge the gap.”
TRANSCENDANT ACTIVEWEAR IS BORN
Married life, a family and continued work in the fashion industry ensued for much of the decade. Cohen went back to work in the fashion industry after having her third child but lost her job due to budget cuts not long after rejoining the workforce. The fashion world can be a bit of revolving door with frequent movement from job to job and often positions are eliminated almost as quickly as they are created.
While dealing with having to figure out her work situation once again, Cohen ran into an old friend and co-worker from the design world who had become a career coach. That friend gave Cohen the push she needed and, well, two and a half years later she is the boss of a burgeoning company.
“She told me I needed to do something that serves my community,” said Cohen who is also a certified yoga instructor. “She was very in your face; you have to do this. But all I thought was who is my community? After that, my husband and I were hiking in Acadia [National Park in Maine] and we were talking
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about what I was going to do with my career. Then I realized that I was going to design modest activewear, clothes that you can run around in and do things in and still feel appropriate especially at school drop off and while running errands around town.
“Once I got that idea it was boom. That was in August 2019. I began researching and it all started with a skirt I had from Athleta that had leggings attached. I loved it because I was able to pick up my kids from Jewish school, run errands, go to meetings and see friends while still looking appropriate and cute. But the skirt was too short and I didn’t like the attached leggings because they didn’t allow for mixing and matching sets.”
Cohen’s research included focusing on what the current modest activewear market had to offer. While doing that legwork, she realized that she wouldn’t “be caught dead wearing it.” She points out that the fabrics were too heavy and didn’t wick away perspiration properly. Cohen felt that much of what was available seemed dated and frumpy and because it was all mass produced overseas, there was no regard for sustainability. She realized that there needed to be a better alternative and that she was going to be the one to create it.
“Modesty was also a new thing for me, and I wanted to learn more about it,” she said. “I began talking to women of all backgrounds and conducting interviews on social media about what modesty means to them. While I was learning what modesty meant to them, I learned about what it meant to me. Originally, I thought it had to only be one way – only wearing skirts and dresses.
“But then I realized that I could have it all. I could not only wear skirts and dresses but also leggings and bike shorts because modesty means different things to different people. It can be a set of rules for certain people, but I view it as a choice, a conscious choice that makes me feel empowered.”
It took some time for Cohen to get the business fully up and running but once she did progress came quickly. She needed to find a fabric supplier and a factory where her designs could be created. While she was busy working on these not so little details, COVID-19 hit and everything got just a bit more
encouraged me to build a portfolio difficult. A client introduced her to a person in Los Angeles who was in Wilson and many of the school’s long-time students held a celebraand apply to art school.” And, to art school she went. From the industry, and he helped her get tion in November to honor Rohr-carrying her huge portfolio from going. He helped her find fabrics man and his 40th anniversary of class to class, to sketching and and a factory. And, because Cohen serving the River Edge commu-painting outdoors, to the smell of art had so many connections in the nity. More than two dozen students supplies that filled the classrooms, industry, she was able to get things attended and they all wore white Wotring has fond memories of that time. done quicker. belts, symbolic of an entry-level student to honor Rohrman’s approach Cohen placed her first order in that karate is about bettering oneself “We started with the basics of sketchthe spring of 2020. Her products and not the color of a belt. ing, charcoal drawing, mastering are made from recycled polyesperspective and eventually moved ter [rPET], which is produced by “More and more I appreciate how I into color and understanding how melting down existing plastic and have been blessed to be able to do color can impact one another,” said re-spinning it into new poly fiber. Cohen is proud of the fact that this material, which is the same material that makes up clear plastic bottles, is being used rather than this as long as I have the have the students I have had. Some of the things they have shared with me are just phenomenal. I can’t believe it. The relationship with people is Wotring of her college experience. “That’s what interested me most in the beginning and I started building upon that in my work.” ending up in a landfill. much more than I thought [it would be]. It’s been awesome and I’ve got After college, Wotring moved to New She also is trying to eliminate fab ten so many friends. I have some York and then to Jersey City shortly ric waste by purchasing deadstock students who have been with me thereafter. fabric, which is leftover material longer than some friends have been that fabric mills have after creat-married.” “When I first moved to New Jersey I ing orders for larger brands. Ultiwas working and living in my studio mately, much of this leftover stock Rohrman owns the building in apartment, which was very small,” ends up in a landfill so Cohen which the dojo is housed. There said Wotring. “I had a long narrow decided to give it new life. She uses is also a candy store located in the hallway that led into my apartment fabric that had been used to create building and he is hopeful of buy-so I would line my hallway walls with pieces for companies such as Soul-ing the store but that doesn’t mean drop cloth and stretch canvas all the Cycle, Fabletics and Athleta. All of he will be giving up the school or way down the corridor. It was the the packaging, which is also recy-stop teaching. He says he will always only place in the apartment that was clable, is made in Boulder, Colo. be teaching but perhaps not in the long enough for my canvases.”commercial way he is doing now. “I can keep the school and just keep doing what I do conveniently,” Rohrman said. “In my head I like Over time, Wotring branched out. Her art studio now resides in Manhattan, where she enjoys the explorto think I am still 22 but I’m not. atory process of abstract painting. “When I start a piece, I don’t know “I hope I can keep going forever,” exactly where it’s going or how it he continued. “I’m 63, I’m healthy will look when it’s completed. I love and God willing I’ll just keep going.
If I make it to 72 or 73 it will be 50 years. I just have to keep moving forward.”
HERE WE GO
Word began to slowly circulate about the product and little by little sales began to pick up once Transcendent Active was up and running. Her first run of skirts sold out in two weeks. Cohen slowly introduced new products after the signa-Continued on page 28 ture all-day active skirt. The knot dress, quarter sleeve and leggings soon followed.
Continued on page 48
Then, when Cohen’s aunt, Caroline Manzo, touted her leggings on social media last March business exploded. Manzo was a star on the reality television show Real Housewives of New Jersey and has a large following on social media.
“God was working some amazing magic because on March 4, which also happens to be my birthday, my aunt posted a video of herself in the leggings and I feel like that was the turning point,” Cohen said. “Social media blew up and we had all these orders. I realized everyone was loving the product, so I offered a few more new items for the spring collection.”
Cohen is quick to point out that her success hasn’t been a solo effort. Her family has been a huge help. Her parents help with watching the children every week while she packs orders and answers emails. Her mom also offers style advice while her husband helps with planning for events and pop-ups. Additionally, her children are always suggesting new ideas for colors and styles.
She also relies heavily on two members of her “work family” – Hoa Do and Tina St. John. Do, who lives in Los Angeles, is a fashion veteran who leads Transcendent Active’s ethical manufacturing initiative. She visits the LA factory where Cohen’s products are produced to ensure that the products are being produced safely and ethically. Cohen said the two speak daily.
St. John, who is originally from L.A. but lives in Santa Fe, previously worked with Cohen on the underwear brand 2xist. They have also worked together on collections for Sprayground and Ovadia & Sons. She serves as the technical designer and fit expert.
Cohen said Transcendent Active currently offers nine items in total, including leggings, bike shorts, midi skirts, dresses and a wrap cardigan but says her best-selling item is her all-day active skirt. This spring she will be adding more colors and a shorter flare skirt and a T-shirt to her line.
Additionally, Cohen has been able to branch out in a more traditional retail setting. She has been able to get her line placed at Carly’z Craze in Teaneck and in Rebecca’s Boutique in Lakewood. She is hopeful adding other retail outlets in Miami, Los Angeles, Chicago, Baltimore and a store in the Midwest by the end of the year.
Cohen also held a pop-up event on Long Island in November and Scottsdale, Ariz. in January. She held similar events in Teaneck and Brooklyn in February. Cohen also has global customers, having sold pieces to women in Israel, South Africa, the United Kingdom, France, Australia and Germany.
“Transcendent Active is not just about clothes, it’s about building a community, Cohen said. “I have a customer in Miami who wore a Transcendent skirt and top in the Miami Marathon and you could see that she was glowing as she crossed the finish line and not just because she was wearing that skirt and top. You could feel that sense of community, like we were there cheering her on and pushing her past the finish line.
“That’s what people need. We need more relationships. We need more ways to express ourselves, to move our bodies in clothing that feels right. And we need a community of women who support our choices. Transcendent Active is about a community of women building relationships.”
And Cohen, ball of energy that she is, seems to be the perfect person to help build this community.