HOLIDAY 2018
A publication of It’s A Winederful Life
s the old year draws to a close and the new one lingers on the horizon, the arrival of the Winter Solstice (on or about December 21) brings with it the shortest day – and longest night – of the year. From its Latin roots, we are reminded that on this day, the sun stands still; we can take a moment to reflect and look up at the stars. Gazing upward, Orion greets us from his perch in this sky. Home to three of the 25 brightest stars, Orion’s gleaming placement among the stars permits him to be seen all over the world, regardless of hemisphere. This winter constellation, named for the myth of Orion, and seen so well amidst the darkness, poetically alludes to the regenerative powers of the sun as Orion’s own eyesight was restored by its healing rays. And, just south of his brilliant belt, Orion’s faithful companion, Sirius, also known as the Dog Star, literally sparkles as brightest star in the sky. In olden days, this moment in the calendar marked the end of harvest (and all of the hard work it entailed) and signaled instead a time to celebrate. Rome’s festival of Saturnalia took place from December 17 to 25 – those Romans knew how to party! So, taking a cue from these ancient holidays, now is the perfect time to raise a glass (or two) in celebration of this festive season and all that we have to be thankful for! Of course, you can toast the holidays with red or white, but why not think pink this season? If you’ve put away your rosé, along with your bathing suits and shorts, it’s time to reconsider your rosé routine. Unfortunately, rosé has become nearly synonymous with the lazy, hazy days of summer and relegated to pool parties and picnics. But, rosé is much more than that! Yes, rosé is perfect for the hot and humid temperatures of June, July and August, but it is not a pair of white pants and can be drunk after Labor Day. If rosé is here to stay (which it most definitely is), it should stay all year round. In fact, rosé is such a versatile wine that it should be a welcome addition to the table any time of year. So, it was a pleasure to receive a quartet of rosés from Provence, which itself is nearly synonymous with rosé, to mark this year’s holidays and
share with friends at a Solstice celebration. As 2019 looms large and, with it, the sparkle of a brand-new year, fresh with promise, the bright, fresh flavors of rosé, along with their warm pink hues, provide a nice respite from the gloomy grey skies of winter! TASTING NOTES Château Coussin La Croix du Prieur Rosé 2017, Côtes de Provence, France, $14.00 Primarily produced from Grenache, this wine presents intense notes of strawberry, spice, perfume and floral.
Map Image courtesy of Vins de Provence
Château Henri Bonnaud Terre Promise Rosé, 2017, Côtes de Provence, France, $15.00 Comprised of half Grenache and half Syrah, this wine greets the nose with lovely cherry and berry aromas that persist on the medium-bodied palate, along with a hint of floral. Château Leoube Le Secret de Leoube Rosé 2017, Côtes de Provence, France, $40.00 Bringing together Grenache, Cinsault and Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine presents delicate floral aromas with beautiful minerality on the bright and refreshing palate, culminating in long length. Mirabeau en Provence Pure Rosé 2017, Côtes de Provence, France, $20.00 A blend of Grenache and Syrah, this wine offers up aromas of strawberry, citrus and musk on the nose, which give way to more peachy notes on the medium-bodied palate with long length.
Regardless of which winter holidays you do or don’t celebrate, who doesn’t want to be on the receiving end of presents? So, with that in mind, I am starting a list just in case anyone wants to know what to get me.
Thankfully, the Gaudiinspired, beautifullypackaged, duo of Cavas from Vilarnau is an affordable option to imbue your holidays with glitz and glamour. Named for the Arnau family’s castle that stood on the banks of
One of the things I always say is that everything is better the Anoia River, the Vilarthat sparnau property, situated just kles. This is outside Barcelona, evokes a true of wamagical scene right out of a ter, wine, fairy tale. Available in a diamonds classic Brut Reserva (SRP and person$14.99) and a Brut Reserva alities! Rosé (SRP $15.99), these sparkling wines will be a welcome So, you can addition to any celebration. be sure that And you’ll still have money left over to gift me a pair of I had to shoes! have one of
these Goldish aura-activated sparkling body chains when I first saw them in the Journelle email that featured Thanks to a holiday invite from my them… until I saw the price (but that’s why they make friend Susannah Gold of Vigneto such a perfect gift). Communications, I had1the pleasure Also not in the budget, but definitely on the Desire List are almost any of Christian Louboutin‘s embellished pumps collection as seen in an email from Nordstrom, although the one pictured is my favorite of the lot. Oh well, a girl can dream.
of meeting the Torino-based designer and browsing her wares while sipping wines from Lugana, a unique DOC that spans two Italian regions – Lombardia and the Veneto. Here, the white grape variety Turbiana, which is closely related to Trebbiano di Soave, reigns supreme, finding its way into a wide range of wine styles from still to sparkling and from dry to sweet. [NB: I previously wrote about Lugana’s wines last year.] Italian native Marta Scarampi studied at FIT before returning home to launch her fashion line. Her line features a selection of capes and her travel and business collection – dresses and jackets that easily go from the boardroom to the boarding queue.
These capes are much better to keep a super woman warm on a cold day and can be customized with faux fur collars, rainproof hoods and are available in a range of fabrics and styles. They looked uber chic and sophisticated on my friend, Lisa, who tried on several different options.
Always and forever the dress girl, I was smitten by two styles in Marta’s collection. The first was her Lucca stretch dress (pictured left), while the other was a more celebratory number with metallic threads, worthy of the holiday season. Like the capes, the dress styles can also be madeto-order with the client’s preferred fabric choice.
I first became acquainted with Papapietro Perry Winery back in 2008 when I compiled a lengthy list of Sonoma County producers to potentially visit for our upcoming trip. We would be in Sonoma for an extended weekend (Thursday through Tuesday), first to attend the very first Wine Bloggers’ Conference and then to enjoy a few days tasting and touring throughout the county. We had arranged to meet our San Francisco-based friends, Peter and Nicole, for the day and set off in pursuit of Pinot. With our focus on Healdsburg, that day included visits to Ridge, Seghesio and Papapietro Perry. Well-known and respected for their Pinot and Zinfandel, Papapietro Perry had ended up on the list thanks to the favorable reviews they
garnered in Wine Spectator magazine (and continue to receive in that and in other publications). The winemakers behind the label are Bruce Perry and Ben Papapietro. With their mutual love of food and wine, the two friends began making wine together in a shared pursuit of Pinot Noir. Starting in Ben’s San Francisco garage back in 1980s, their homemade attempts turned out to be quite good, eventually permitting them to quit their “day jobs” to pursue wine full-time. And, keeping it all in the family, they are joined by their wives, Renae Perry (who is responsible for winery operations) and Yolanda Papapietro (who handles distribution).
During our 2008 visit, I was very impressed with the wines, tasting two Pinots (Charles Vineyard ~ Anderson Valley and Leras Family Vineyards ~ Russian River Valley) and two Zins (both from the Russian River Valley). So, it was a pleasure to reacquaint myself with Papapietro Perry wine again more recently. Trust me, if someone gifts you their wines, you will not be unhappy! TASTING NOTE
Papapietro Perry Pinot Noir Nunes Vineyard 2016 Russian River Valley (CA), USA, $60.00
This 100% Pinot Noir wine spent 11 months in French oak, 50% of which was new and 50% of which was 1 and 2 years old. Pale garnet with a paler rim, typical of Pinot Noir, this wine offered up spice, earth and cherry aromas. It was dry, with bright acidity, fresh cherries and raspberries, spice, a slight woody note, and an undercurrent of earthiness on the medium-bodied palate, culminating in very long length. A truly beautiful wine.
All about Italy
...
As
with much of life, it is all about achieving balance; finding harmony between two opposing points. Too often, balance is elusive and, perhaps, perfect balance is unattainable. Yet, we would all agree it is a worthy goal. Balance might even be considered laughable in the context of a Clevel executive, but that’s precisely what Antonio Capaldo, Chairman of Feudi di San Gregorio, strives to achieve. At a recent dinner, he continually circled back to this word – and to this concept of striking a balance between competing polarities and viewpoints – all to the good of his company and the wines it produces.
currently, he balanced his time between work and “play”, successfully pursuing his sommelier certification, thus bringing the dual perspectives of business acumen and wine knowledge to his role.
At a production of 3.5 million bottles annually, today, Feudi is the largest winery in Southern Italy, excluding Sicily. Yet, in spite of its size relative to its neighbors, it is still considered to be medium in size. It is this balance between being an artisanal producer and a large corporation, that Capaldo attributes to their success. In this regard, they have Situated within the Italian region the resources to continually learn of Campania, home to Naples and and evolve and pass that the Amalfi Coast, Feudi di San knowledge down to subsequent Gregorio was established in 1986, generations as well as the adalthough winemaking in the region vantage of being more than one dates back to the 12thcentury BCE, person’s impact or vision. Simultainfluenced by the Greeks, Romans neously, they are small enough to and Byzantines. Capaldo joined be nimble and responsive to the the family business in 2009 after a market.
decade-long career in finance and management consulting, having earned a PhD in Economics and Finance from a joint program between London School of Economics and University of Rome. Con-
Their size has also given them the opportunity to drive quality throughout the region. Having brought in the expertise of Simonit and Sirch, they instituted a pruning school for local growers (Feudi buys 30-40% of its grapes) and have dramatically shifted the way in which they pay them. Specifically, they no longer reward growers for volume, instead paying them based on the quality of the fruit they deliver. In order to do so, they balance the risk and reward, overcom-
ing the growers’ objectives to keeping grapes on the vine longer due to threat of rain or other weather hazards. While this has been an expensive proposition, the quality of the grapes has vastly improved. Balance is also extremely important when discussing the impact of hospitality at the winery. Capaldo notes that world class hospitality is vital to the winery, especially given its proximity to such tourist destinations as Positano and Pompeii, and it now welcomes 40,000 visitors each year. While many of them come expressly for the wine, others are drawn to the winery’s Michelin-starred restaurant and only later discover that it is connected to the winery. Consequently, while winery tours should extoll the virtues of the winery’s restaurant, world-class architectural design and esteemed collection of artwork, their tour guides must be equally trained (and remember) to speak about the winery and its wines. Capaldo further underscores the need for balance in the vineyard. When answering a question about sustainable practices, he acknowledges that while they aspire to be organic, the climate makes this impossible to commit to fully.
Accordingly, their philosophy is to be sustainable in all things – with a decided emphasis on sustaining the vines themselves. In this regard, he notes that there is often a need to replant every 30 years or so in organically -certified vineyards. With so many historic vines under his purview – Capaldo proudly shared a photo of the 100+ year-old vines in the Serpico vineyard – he feels the duty to preserve vines not just for decades, but for centuries. Vinously, the winery provides a balance in the 25 or so wines it creates, offering up the popular and approachable Falanghina, alongside the more structured Greco di Tufo and Fiano d’Avellino wines. Capaldo also balances the need to age the reds for long periods of time before release (adding to his expense and the wine’s price) with getting the wines into the market. But, errs on the side of quality, choosing to age his wines longer than the denomination rules require. Personally, Capaldo admits that balance is hard. He recognizes that he comes from a background of control and is aiming to do a better job of letting go – taking time for family, allowing others to handle various business matters and letting go of the things beyond his control such as vintage variations and their impact on the wines. Watching him during dinner, it is clear that he practices what he preaches, finding a balance in all things: his wife had accompanied him on this trip (and to the dinner), he carefully selected gluten-free options, barely touched his wines and finished his meal with a decadent chocolate dessert! TASTING NOTES When we speak of a great glass of wine, we frequently consider the balance between fruit and tannins, between sweetness and acidity and in not having too much oak or alcohol. The wines of Feudi definitely deliver in being well-balanced wines. My tasting notes are a bit sparse from the evening, but it was a pleasure to be reacquainted with these wines I had last tasted in June 2016.
Feudi di San Gregorio Sannio Falanghina DOC 2017, Campania, Italy
Fresh fruit and floral aromas and flavors, with nice acidity, medium body and just generally easy and fun to drink.
Feudi di San Gregorio Greco di Tufo DOCG 2017, Campania, Italy
Grown in high elevation vineyards, the fruit is all hand harvested due to the steep terrain. Despite the lack of oak or skin contact, Greco produces structured wines, with limited fruit character and a beautiful ability to pair well at the table. I enjoyed it equally with the fried zucchini as I did with the duck breast.
Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi DOCG 2013, Campania, Italy
This wine spends 18 months in oak with another 9 months in bottle. It displayed lots of bright acidity, with aromas and flavors of cherry, spice and other red fruit, with firm tannins on the full-bodied palate. It was easier to drink than the Riserva 2012 but I would appreciate it more in the future, when the tannins will have had more time to soften (and deeply regretted that I hadn’t ordered a steak for dinner; Capaldo suggests that the best pairing is lamb, but the evening’s menu did not include any).
Feudi di San Gregorio Piano di Montevergine Taurasi Riserva DOCG 2012, Campania, Italy With its longer aging requirements, this wine is aged in oak for 18 to 24 months, with an additional 24 months in bottle, the lengthy period of time stabilizing the wine before its release. Not surprisingly, this wine displayed even firmer tannins and more overt use of oak, but was still redolent of beautiful fruit and acidity.
All about Italy
EPOKALE, WHERE PAST AND PRESE MEET AT THE PEAK OF PERFECTION
ENT N
The region of Alto Adige, in northeast Italy, greets visitors with its snow-topped peaks, verdant mountains and Swiss chalet-style architecture. These hills are alive with the sound of viticulture, having produced highly regarded, quality wines as far back as 500 BCE, thanks to the ingenuity of the indigenous Rhaetian people. The region was further influenced by the Romans who arrived on the scene in 15 BCE. As a result, the local village of Tramin took its name from the Latin word for border and later gave its name to an indigenous variety grown in the area for centuries. With the German “er” suffix indicating origin from Tramin) the grape was first called Traminer, and later earned the prefix of gewürz, which is German for spice. Among the many producers in the region, the small cooperative of Cantina Tramin is deeply rooted in the community. Founded in 1898, it was during the early 1990s that the members of the cooperative made the conscious decision to pursue a quality agenda, making changes in the vineyards, the winery and staff, namely bringing on Willi Stürz as both winemaker and Technical Director. In the wake of this commitment, his efforts were rewarded with the title of “Winemaker of the Year” in 2004 by Italian wine guide, Gambero Rosso. Since then, Cantina Tramin continues to be well regarded for its wines and, in particular, for its Gewürztraminer. As the area’s most historic and important variety, Cantina Tramin is keen to preserve and promote Gewürztraminer and presently manages 57 hectares of Gewürztraminer vines, representing 22% of the coop’s plantings, as compared to just under 11% for the region as a whole. In pursuit of this passion for Gewürztraminer, Cantina Tramin expanded its Gewürztraminer range with the recent launch of Epokale. With its name taken from the root of epoch – a period – the intent was to create a wine similar in style to those produced in the past, but that
have been lost with time. This traditional, semi-sweet wine was made from grapes from two of the oldest vineyards and is a late harvest, Spatlese-level wine, deliberately harvested with only limited botrytis (about 10% were affected by noble rot). First produced in 2009, this wine made its debut last year, after having spent seven years aging in an abandoned silver mine in Val Ridanna, situated at 2,000 meters above sea level. The mine provided perfect conditions: correct and consistent temperature and humidity, along with constant pressure, which ensured that no tartrates were formed. The wine was initially crafted and then bottled at the winery, with the individual bottles brought up to the mine’s caves for its period of aging. Only 1200 bottles of the maiden vintage were produced. In recognition of its sheer perfection, this wine was recently awarded 100 points by Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. This is a tremendous honor that goes beyond simply receiving a perfect score in that it is the first time at all that the publication has awarded such a score to an Italian white wine. And, also marks the first time this score has been awarded to a wine from outside Piedmont and Tuscany. In fact, of the over 35.000 Italian wines tasted by Wine Advocate, only 14 have received the top score and most of these are Barolo and Brunello wines. Not surprisingly, this exciting and well-deserved news has been happily received by the winery’s personnel. Wolfgang Klotz, Marketing and Sales Director at Cantina Tramin, called it “A historic touchdown,” noting that, “We are very proud to have brought this recognition to Alto Adige Region.” Similarly, Willi Stürz acknowledged that, “We are honored of receiving such a score. A great satisfaction that I want to share with our 150 associated families and all the team at the winery,” further adding that, “Many might have considered Epokale project a hazard. We are very happy our efforts have been understood and fully rewarded.”
All about Italy
two demarcated areas differ. I won’t belabor these points here because I’ve written about them already (Prosecco, Prosecco Superiore and Slowing Down in Asolo); however, it is important to recognize where Prosecco got its start. And, it is fitting to do so as we celebrate the 150th anniversary of Carpène-Malvolti winery and recognize its important contribution to this wine. In 1868, viticulturist and winemaker, Antonio Carpenè, crafted the first sparkling wine from what was then called the Prosecco grape, having spent time and effort in perfecting the Charmat method to beautiful effect with the local variety. Formally trained as a chemist, Antonio was a committed scientist, studying with Louis Pasteur in Montpellier as well as other top scientists throughout Europe in order to expand his knowledge. I suppose given this dedication, one shouldn’t be surprised that Antonio named his sixth-born child, Etile, from the Italian word for ethyl alcohol (and perhaps sealing his fate for a career in have always held the personal belief that everything is better with bubbles! And, lately, the world the family business). Equally unsurprising, his wife, Teresa, nixed the name Enocianina (meaning oenocyaseems to agree with me. While consumption of red and white still wine remains flat (pun intend- nin,a tannin product from grape skins) for his first daughter, who thankfully was called Maria, instead. ed), the consumption of sparkling wine has risen dramatically since 2009 and is expected to grow annually by nearly 6% from 2018-2021, indicating significant inWith his background in higher education – Antonio creased interest in bubbles.* served as a professor of natural sciences at Bosisio College of Monza and at the Royal Agricultural School of Conegliano – he saw the need to apply science and rigBut it is important to remember that just because it orous study to viticulture and enology, and established sparkles, it isn’t necessarily Champagne! Only those wines that come from the specific Champagne region in the first school of its kind in Italy, in 1876. France deserve that title. And, although Champagne has certainly become a benchmark for quality sparkling As the years progressed, Carpenè-Malvolti continued to wine, there are lots of other wonderful options out there, produce its sparkling wine, first labeling it as Chammany of which come from their own distinct pagne Italiano (a term no longer permitted), until 1924, place, such as Crémant de Bourgogne (Burgundy, when Etile changed the name to Prosecco, decades beFrance), Cava (Catalonia, Spain) and Prosecco (Veneto fore the creation of the actual DOC. This was also the and Friuli, Italy). Yes, it is a lot to remember, but there same year that the Enological School was inaugurated is a method to this “madness.” In fact, it is this combi- at its current site. nation of terroir (soil, climate, cultivation…) and the production process, which is precisely responsible for Today, the winery remains within the Carpenè family the resulting wines. since its founding, alternating given names from Antonio to Etile, with each subsequent generation. Its curTo add another layer of confusion, there are actually two rent management includes members of the 4th and 5th types of Prosecco: Prosecco DOC and Prosecco Superi- generation, while a member of the 6th generation ore DOCG. While both Prosecco designations are made (presently only two years old) is potentially poised to from the Glera grape, using the Charmat Method take over in the future. (which retains the bouquet of this aromatic variety), the
I
Aside from the family, Domenico Scimone holds the post of General Manager and has been with the company for six years. Despite this relatively short tenure in the company’s history, he is extremely effusive about it and its past. Carpenè’s U.S. importer, Julius Angelini, has actually been involved with the winery for much longer, having been the first to bring the wine to America in the 1990s.
klers, they produce Prosecco Superiore in Brut, Dry and Extra Dry styles as well as a Cartizze wine (the cru of Prosecco Superiore) and PVXINVM Vino Pucinum, taken from the name given to the local wine by Pliny the Elder during Roman times. In addition, they also make Prosecco DOC, a Traditional Method sparkler and a Rose Spumante (see tasting note below).
TASTING NOTES
Carpenè-Malvolti 1868 Extra Dry Prosecco di Conegliano NV, Veneto, Italy, $16.00
A really lovely sparkler with a nice, gentle mousse, good fruit on the nose and palate with notes of white flowers, pear and a hint of marzipan, culminating in long length.
Carpenè-Malvolti Rosé Spumante Brut, NV, Veneto, Italy, $17.00 Produced from a blend of local grape, Raboso, from Treviso and Pinot Noir from Trentino, this wine is beautifully dry, with crisp acidity, just a hint of fruit and was perfect with lunch.
To commemorate this important milestone, Carpenè is releasing a small production (10,000 bottles) wine, which mimics the original wine in its blend. While Carpenè’s modern wines are all 100% Glera (rules permit up to 15% other grapes), this small batch, *For detailed information and statistics on the rise of called “1924,” will bring together 90% Glera with 10% sparkling wine production and consumption, please of other permitted varieties. see: OIV State of the Viticulture World MarOverall, Carpenè-Malvolti has a varied portfolio of both sparkling wines and spirits. Among the spar-
ket, Statista Sparkling Wine and Sparkling Wines: global trends and challenges.
Sips from Spain
CVNE: THE WINE COMPANY
Y FROM THE NORTH OF SPAIN CVNE is not just any winery from northern Spain. No, really, it is the winery from northern Spain. The name CVNE, pronounced Q-nay, is actually an acronym: Compania Vinicola del Norte de Espana, which literally translates as “Wine Company from the North of Spain.”
and globally over the past 15 years.
His marketing and business acumen led him to focus first on building out the export side when he took over. These efforts have been buoyed by the Admittedly it might not have been the buying up of distribution most original moniker when the com- channels and, more repany was founded in 1879, but the cently, with an expansion nondescript name actually suits the of the brand. This latter winery just fine. As Victor Urrutia endeavor has been primarYbarra, its current CEO, asserts, a great ily centered on the purwinery is much more than a family chase of abandoned vinename or dynasty or as the work of a yards and undervalued specific winemaker. Rather, its prodproperties, especially in ucts continually deliver on quality unre- emerging regions. Conselated to the particular people behind quently, CVNE now produces wine in the bottle. That being said, CVNE’s Galicia, Ribera del Duero and in Catawinemakers hang around a long time; lonia, thanks to the acquisition of a there have only been five in its 100-plus Cava producer. year history.
A prime example of this mantra is CVNE’s Monopole Clasico. First produced in 1915, it lays claim to being the oldest white wine brand in Spain. This unusual white was made with a small addition of Sherry to the blend, with the intent to counteract the low potential alcohol levels of the grapes at harvest and give it more backbone, which it did, along with a unique signature thanks to the Sherry’s yeastiness. Unfortunately, the wine fell out of fashion during the 1980s and CVNE stopped making altogether. However, thanks to interest from a visitor to the winery, they were inspired to reintroduce the Such kudos echo the company’s earliest wine, employing the original winemakpraise, having received Gold Medals at er, Ezekiel, to teach them how to make the 1889 International Exhibition in it. Paris, and at the 1890 International Exhibition in Antwerp as well as taking Another element of CVNE that marthe Grand Prix at the Paris Internation- ries its present with its past is its cellar, al Exhibition in 1900. The company’s which has the rare distinction of having current connection to its historical been designed by Gustav Eiffel. While
But, business know-how can only take And, while Victor is a part of CVNE’s you so far. It is through these changes, heritage (he is a member of the fifth coupled with the company’s continued generation of the founding family), he commitment to quality, that CVNE has took the job practically kicking and garnered significant success. Among its screaming all the way. Well, not really, many awards, was the recognition of its but he was certainly a reluctant bride to Imperial Gran Reserva 2004 as the #1 the CVNE bridegroom, agreeing first Wine of the Year (in 2013) by Wine to a single-year contract to see if it Spectator magazine, the first time that a would work out. This was followed by wine from Spain received this honor, a second, and then a third, single-year further elevating the brand’s reputation contract, by which time, he realized and reach. The winery has also been that he enjoyed the role after all. And, ranked among the top 100 wineries in he has stepped into the position as if the world by Wine & Spirits Magazine. born to it (which perhaps he was). Despite his initial reluctance, his arrival on the CVNE scene was well-timed and well-played. Bringing his expertise and training as a management consultant (he worked in Brazil for a U.S. consulting firm prior to joining CVNE), he has dramatically transformed the brand, raising its prominence both in Spain
roots underscore Victor’s admonition that, “What defines our future is in our past.”
previously, the winery wasn’t open to tourists, CVNE has gone all-in regarding wine tourism, welcoming 30,000 visitors annually, with time in the cellar featuring prominently in the visit. And, more recently, Victor purchased a derelict castle nearby, at which he plans to develop a more intimate tourist experience, along with a small winery, further adding to the company’s emphasis on welcoming the world at its door. With its dedication to high quality wine production, sound and savvy business practices and a desire to grow strategically, CVNE is poised to not only sustain its current level of success, but, perhaps, to surpass it. Yet, as it extends its expansion outside of Rioja (aka the North of Spain), it might have to rethink its name ;-).
TASTING NOTES
intention of making the very best wine they can. Consequently, it is produced from a careful selection of top grapes from the company’s Rioja Alta vineyards. Notes of Spice, wood, strawberry, oak and clove, with medium acidity, medium body and very long length.
Imperial Gran Reserva 2011, Rioja, Spain, $80.00
Viña Real Crianza 2015, Rioja, Spain, $17.00
Hailing from a more delicate area within the Rioja region, this wine provides a juicy, fresher and younger expression of Rioja. Bright strawberry aromas and flavors with good acidity, slight oak and vanilla, long length.
As per law, the Gran Reserva spends a longer period of time aging in barrel than the Reserva wine, giving it more time to age and develop before being bottled and, ultimately, released. It also reflects the best selection of grapes. Silky smooth on the palate, this wine is still young, with red fruits, slight woodiness, elegance, finesse and a long finish. And, if that’s not enough to win you over, the 1994 vintage of this wine was served at Crown Prince (now King) Felipe’s royal wedding.
Imperial Reserva 2012, Rioja, Spain, $45.00 This wine takes its name from its first bottling back in the 1920s when it was made for the English market and placed into Imperial Pint-sized vessels. Since then, Imperial has only been made in excellent vintages, with the
Monopole Clasico Blanco Seco 2014, Rioja, Spain, $27.00
Given its inclusion of Sherry wine, this is not a true white Rioja, but that doesn’t make it any less delicious and, in fact, I was extremely impressed with its freshness and complexity. Dry, with bright acidity, apple and a hint of floral, culminating in long length. It also has the ability to age with time.
NB: If you are looking for a great place in New York City to try these (and many other Spanish wines), along with delicious tapas (such as those pictured), be sure to check out Casa Mono and its hospitable manager, Jahdea Gildin.
Sips from Spain
wine in American oak and some in French oak and then, ultiack in 1973, a group of friends (in Spain) realized that mately, blending the wine together. But, the results were less they loved good food and wine and decided to embark than satisfactory. Instead, he had the brainchild to blend the on a joint venture in making wine for themselves. cask itself; all of the barrel staves are made from American Once they got started, they had way too much wine, so they oak (representing about 65% of the barrel), while the top and began gifting the wine to business colleagues and selling to bottom are made from French oak. local restaurants. But, their production levels were still too high for personal consumption, prompting them to look for a commercial partner. In 1982, the group crossed paths with Sherry producer (and wine company) Gonzalez Byass and soon entered into a partnership with them, enabling Bodegas Beronia to grow into a successful, international brand.
Yet, in spite of all this emphasis on oak, he is adamant that the fruit comes first and the oak must be secondary. So, while it may seem that it is all about that bass (aka the wood influence); it’s actually all about the fruit!
Calleja’s hybrid barrels are primarily used for the Crianza and Reserva levels of his Rioja, while the Gran Reserva spends 26 -28 months in French barrels, since French oak is better for Concurrent with longer-aged wines. As Calleja explained, “It respects the fruit the partnership, better.” Having the opportunity at a recent press lunch to Matias Calleja taste through barrel samples of the same wine aged in three joined the team as different barrel types winemaker and has was extremely inbeen with Bodegas structive in underBeronia ever since. standing how the oak This year, Calleja shows up in the will celebrate his wine. 37th vintage with the company, havIn addition to its ing completed only traditional Riojan one harvest elsereds, Bodegas Berowhere (in Tarragonia also produces na, his first). Yet, a Rueda ($13 despite his lengthy SRP) and a Rosé tenure, he is still (~$13). For the enjoying his post Rueda, the harvest is and having fun. intentionally staggered and lees conMoreover, Calleja has had a lasting influence on Bodegas tact is undertaken, Beronia in establishing the winery’s distinctive style. In this both of which add regard, he has been at the forefront of how best to impart fullness to the wine. oak into the wine. Plus, the fermentation temperature is carefully controlled. The result is a wine with good aromatics in addition to a rich and round palate, with medium+ body and freshness. The As a wine that requires lengthy aging, Rioja has always been winery’s rosé has recently undergone a makeover due to deabout wood and, in particular, about American oak; there was mand from the market (the U.S. in particular), evolving from no use of French oak until the 1970s. Once both types of a dark-colored Tempranillo to one with a more Provençal wood were in play, for many winemakers, it was a matter of style. The new wine brings together Tempranillo and Garnadetermining the best blend of American and French barrels. cha, with only three hours of skin contact, producing a more savory, delicate and drier wine than their previous version, American oak imparts cocoa, mocha and a sweeter note to with melon, peach and herbal notes. the wine, while French oak gives more spice, clove, vanilla and pepper notes. Calleja initially tried aging some of the
RIOJA TASTING NOTES Bodegas Beronia Reserva 2013, Rioja Spain, $20.00 As a Reserva-level Rioja, this wine was aged for 20 months in hybrid barrels, before spending an additional two years in bottle. The wine offers up strawberry, black cherry, oak, vanilla and spice aromas with juicy fruit, bright acidity and ripe tannins on the medium+-bodied palate. Bodegas Beronia Gran Reserva 2009, Rioja Spain, $30.00 Aged for 28 months in French oak, this wine displays beautiful fresh and dried floral aromas along with strawberry, clove and oak, which persist on the palate. It has lovely acidity, a full body and long length. ď‚–
Sips from Spain
Vintae, in search of Spa Ricardo Arambarri is a man on a mission: scouring Spain for great grapes and sharing them with the world. Fortunately, he seems to have the energy and stamina to do so. In fact, he admitted that his energy is often too much for his girlfriend, so she is thankful that he “lives on the plane,” she can catch up on sleep while he is traveling. Energy aside, despite being born and raised in the heart of the Rioja wine region, Ricardo’s vinous destiny was not assured. Yes, his family had been tending to their own vineyards in the region for generations, but, Ricardo’s dad, José Miguel Arambarri, detested working in the field and left Logroño in order to pursue a more satisfying career. However, in the late 1990s, José Miguel decided to invest in the family business and returned home to reinvigorate the vineyards. As a young man, Ricardo, too, was anxious to leave his small town and see the world, studying first in Barcelona and then settling in Texas after graduation. His plan was to eventually move to New York, but as they say, the best laid plans… Unfortunately, José Miguel suffered a stroke (he has since fully recovered), forcing Ricardo to head back to Spain. But, the upside of that tragedy was that he was inspired to create a company focused on making quality wine in Spain. Now, ten years on, Vintae produces wines in 15 different regions, expanding the portfolio as they explore up-and-coming areas. The company’s overarching philosophy is to show the diversity of Spain, while providing wines that are accessible to consumers, easy to enjoy and drinkable upon release. With an MBA under his belt, Ricardo serves as CEO and is responsible for the business-side of Vintae’s operations, while his business partner serves as Technical Director, overseeing decisions in the vineyards. As the company continues to collaborate with its various growers, they are particularly driven by a goal of becoming 100% organic in the near future. Beyond this specific goal, Ricardo and, by extension, Vintae, is firmly focused on the future of Spain and its wines, looking for opportunities to capitalize on its improved quality. In particular, he sees an upsurge in the prestige with Spanish whites, especially those from the Atlantic coastal areas such as Galicia. Consequently, Vintae launched its Atlantis range in 2015, which features whites from these regions. Its Albarino from Rias Baixas is sourced fruit from the sunnier (hence warmer and drier) sub-region of Condado de Tea. The range also includes a Hondarrabi Zuri from Txakoli, Godello from Valdoeras and Treixadura from Ribeiro. Given the Arambarri’s Rioja heritage, it is not surprising that Rioja figures prominently in the company’s portfolio, with Hacienda Lopez de Haro added as early as 2003. Ricardo refers to these wines as being of the “contemporary classic style,” marrying the classic style of long aging
ain’s Greatest Hits in American oak, with the more fruit forward styles of the 1990s. He further notes that theirs has finesse, elegance and a good balance between fruit and oak, with a preference for aging the wines in used barrels. Another lesser-known region where Vintae has been particularly active is Toro. This region is situated in Castilla y Leon and is known for its powerful wines produced from the Tempranillo grape, here called Tinta de Toro. Yet, in keeping with Vintae’s vinous aesthetic, they seek to craft wines that are more approachable than traditional Toro. To do so, they harvest early, shorten maceration times and ferment in concrete tanks, resulting in Toro wines that have been accused of being “too Rioja!” But, if their production of Toro wines is less than conventional, their appreciation for the terroir, its preponderance of pre-phylloxera vines and its hardworking people is no less intense. In homage to the men and women who toil in Toro – which is known for having nine months of winter and three months of hell – their Matsu range (from the Japanese word for “wait”) fondly features photos of local grape growers on its labels. Not content to conquer Spain, Vintae has also turned its attention to Chile, launching its Kudaw range also in 2015. But, it is clear that Ricardo continues to set his sights on new and novel areas of Spain, so it is likely that Vintae’s Spanish portfolio will grow further in time, fueled by his incessant energy and lots of time on a plane. TASTING NOTES
Atlantis Albarino 2017, Rias Baixas, Spain, $14.99
This wines displays lovely minerality and a slightly marine character, along with fresh citrus, ripe apple, an unctuous texture and long length.
Bodega Classica Lopez de Haro Reserva 2013, Rioja, Spain, $17.99
Ricardo explained that 2013 was a cold vintage, resulting in lighter style wines, which I found to be a really elegant expression in the glass with aromas and flavors of spice, oak, and strawberry on the dry, medium-bodied palate.
Bodega Classica Lopez de Haro Gran Reserva 2009, Rioja, Spain, $28.99 Hailing from a warmer vintage and the recipient of longer oak aging, this wine offered up darker red fruit, more overt oak, fuller body and a more structured palate.
Matsu El Recio 2016, Toro, Spain, $24.99
Produced from 90- to 100-year old vines, this wine spent 14 months in used French oak barrels. Aromas of spice, black fruit and floral persisted on the palate, with long length.
Matsu El Viego 2015, Toro, Spain, $59.99
This wine is made from a selection of the best grapes from 100+-year-old vineyards. Powerful and intense with black fruit, spice, firm tannins, fresh acidity and full body, culminating in long length.
Desperately seeking ome might say I have a long history with suitcases. Yes, of course, for travel, but I was also once voted, “Most likely to lock herself in a suitcase.” Admittedly, it was a joke, but I had fallen asleep in my suitcase only the week before, so the superlative was a bit apt. But seriously, I still remember my earliest suitcase – a big, light blue American Tourister (yes, the one I took a nap in), that made its way to Saint Croix, Florida, Hawaii and Israel. Later on, I was gifted with a matching duffle and suiter, which served me well for many years.
charged for luggage (yes, I am that old!). We eventually ran them ragged and decided to up our luggage game, falling in love with Tumi, which we purchased at their outlet. Our twin, T-Tech carry-ons took us all around the world, journeying to Mexico, Morocco, South Africa, New Zealand and many more destinations. However, on a trip to Italy, I found a new love and vowed that my next suitcase would be a Rimowa, planning to splurge on the luxury case when the time came. The time came last fall, when hubby and I decided that we needed to replace our dearly beloved, yet tired, Tumis. Recalling my desire to invest in Rimowa, I looked up the options, but wasn’t so sure this was the way to go after all. And, damn, they were expensive if you wanted all the bells and whistles!
But, as a newly-wed adult, it was time for larger, more sturdy cases, so we christened our marriage with a set purchased at Around the same time, I had started to see the ads Macy’s, opting to buy three different sizes of the same bag: large, medium and small. This was in the days before airlines for Away on the subway and was intrigued by these streamlined cases, which offered up integrated TSA-approved locks, charging stations for powering your phone on the fly and were well priced. We headed to the NYC store to check them out and were duly impressed. Hubby pulled the trigger a few weeks later, ready to take his on an upcoming business trip.
Not quite convinced, I questioned if the Away format was indeed the way to go as I watched my husband pack his new case and pondered my choices. I soon realized that the clamshell format was actually a deal-breaker. The idea of having to figure out, which things to pack in which half of the case seemed troublesome at best. So, I set about finding the few cases that still offered a traditional format. And, while the original brief had been focused on finding a four-wheeled, hard-side option, it was clear that I would have to rethink this as very few hard-side suitcases were available in my preferred, single-compartment format. So, I went back to the drawing board and resorted to doing what I always do – research. Lots (and lots) of research! Overall, my guiding principles was in finding the best suitcase for the best price. And, by best, I meant: a traditional format with 4 spinner wheels, outside pockets, the ability to expand and an affordable price. Part of my research included searches and sorts on Macy’s and ebags, helping me to narrow down my options. Next, I read reviews on these retail sites and on numerous forums.
… A Suitcase But, I felt that I needed to see the top contenders in person to get a better feel for them. I initially headed to Innovation Luggage to view the Delsey (Helium Shadow 4.0 21″ Hardside Spinner Suitcase) I was eyeing, only to discover two things: 1) Innovation Luggage no longer carries Delsey products and 2) Briggs and Riley!
wasn’t 100% satisfied when I received it. It seemed much smaller in person despite its stated measurements being very similar to the Briggs & Riley (see chart below). So, back it went, too.
Fortunately, the third time was a charm with the purchase of the Briggs and Riley Transcend VX Wide 21″ CarryOn Expandable Spinner. It is less flashy I added Briggs & Riley to the list, did than the Baseline, but with nearly all of my due diligence and then made the the same features and considerably less trek to Macy’s to compare it to the Del- expensive. And, most importantly, it has sey side by side. I probably opened and proven to be the best suitcase for me. closed both cases a dozen times before leaving the store empty-handed, but In the past year, my new suitcase has time was running out. Our early January seen me successfully through trips to trip to Florida would provide a good Florida, Australia, Italy and Spain, plus maiden voyage for my new suitcase in the occasional weekend visit to see advance of our lengthier Australian holfriends. I can easily pack all of my iday in February. Thus, mid-December clothes, shoes, toiletries and anything became my deadline for finding the perelse I need the way that I am used to fect travel companion. packing. Plus, because the handle is affixed to the exterior of the bag, you After reading still more reviews and have a nice, flat surface on which to spending way too much time agonizing pack. Additionally, its ability to expand over a few inches and pounds, compar- a full two inches has been fantastic, pering and contrasting features and simply mitting me to guiltlessly shop on vacastalling, I finally purchased the Briggs & tion knowing that my suitcase will easily Riley Baseline CX International Carry- accommodate my souveOn Expandable Wide-body Spinner on nirs. Admittedly, the Transcend’s exebags (benefiting from ebates repansion mechanism is less elegant than wards as well as ebags’ own rewards the one in the Baseline, but it still acprogram). complishes the same task and this difference was worth overlooking for the When the Briggs and Riley bag arrived, savings. I was excited, but, despite my pleasure with the purchase, I wasn’t certain that I also love having an exterior pocket in it was worth the hefty price tag given the front of the suitcase for easy access that I travel several times a year, not to paperwork or for storing my toiletry several times a month. case. The “lid” also boasts a separate suiter-style compartment, which has a hanging mechanism that can be easily Consequently, I sent it back removed and simply used to keep (thanks, Shop Runner), and, instead, items/clothing apart from others. While selected the TravelPro Platinum Magna not must-haves, I also like the hidden 2 Expandable Spinner Luggage, which luggage tag, which provides a bit of priranked very highly in various reviews vacy, while still labeling your luggage, as and was very well priced. But, I still
well as the small, zippered pocket located between the handlebars, which is the perfect size for a small travel umbrella (or could easily accommodate cables and power cords). When comparing Briggs & Riley’s Tall vs Wide carry-on formats, it is mostly a matter of preference, since the cases are essentially the same with regard to overall capacity. However, the 21″ height gives you more flexibility in meeting carry-on standards.
Yes, I probably spent way more time and effort than was warranted in my search for the perfect suitcase, but at the end of this journey, I now have the perfect travel companion for all of my trips (in addition to Darling Husband!), which is a good thing, since the Briggs & Riley bags come with a Lifetime Warranty.
Brand
Model
Dimensions Linear Price (Height x Width x Weight Inches (SRP) Depth)
Away
The Bigger Carry-On
22.7” x 14.7” x 9.6” 46L
7.3 lbs.
$245
Away
The Carry-On
21.7” x 13.7” x 9.0” 38L
7.0 lbs.
$225
Baseline CX Int’l Carry Briggs & Riley -On Expandable Wide- 21.0″ x 15.0″ x 9.0″ 44 L body Spinner
9.0 lbs.
$599
Sympatico CX Int’l Briggs & Riley Carry-On Expandable Spinner
21.0″ x 14.0″ x 9.0″ 44 L
8.0 lbs.
$579
Transcend Tall 22″ Briggs & Riley Carry-On Expandable Spinner
22.0″ x 14.0″ x 9.0″ 45 L
8.6 lbs.
$469
Transcend Wide 21″ Briggs & Riley Carry-On Expandable Spinner
21.0″ x 15.0″ x 9.0″ 45 L
8.6 lbs.
$469
6.5 lbs.
$280
Delsey
Helium Shadow 4.0 23.6″ x 15.8” x 21″ Hardside Spinner 10.2″
Rimowa
Salsa Air Ultralight Cabin Multi-wheel
21.7” x 15.7” x 9.1” 37 L
4.4 lbs.
$495
Rimowa
Salsa Multi-wheel
22.0″ x 17.7″ x 9.8″ 47 L
8.4 lbs.
$550
TravelPro
Platinum Magna 2 Ex21.0″ x 14.0″ x 9.0″ 44 L pandable Spinner
7.9 lbs.
$270
Tumi
V3 International Expandable Carry-On
22.0” x 14.0” x 9.0” 37L
7.1 lbs.
$525
Tumi
V3 International Slim Carry-On
21.75” x 15.7” x 7.9”
6.4 lbs.
$475
N/A
37L
NB: Travel tip: When checking your luggage (yes, you have to do that once in awhile, especially if you want to bring back a bottle or two of wine), take a photo on your phone so you’ll have the image to share with the airline agent in the event of loss or delay.
Sokol Blosser says…
Let’s Hear it for the Bees I’ve always been a fan of Sokol Blosser Winery and now there is even more to love about this iconic Oregon wine producer: they are doubling-down on their commitment to the earth! The winery has been a leader in the sustainability movement since the 1970s, but more recently, they have turned their attention to closures. This is not specifically a rehash of the cork vs. screwcap debate, but rather a recognition that cork is not biodegradeable. Yes, it is a renewable resource, but it is precisely because it doesn’t degrade that makes it such a useful option with which to seal wine and other products. Consequently, in an effort to reduce its environmental impact, Sokol Blosser was the first winery in the world to place an order for DIAM’s newest product Origine by DIAM. The winery is trialing this new closure on a portion (15%) of its 2015 Dundee Hills Estate Pinot Noir, which was released in May (2018). Like DIAM’s other products, Origine is a technical cork, but utilizes a beeswax emulsion and 100% vegetable polyols. This makes it recyclable and, equally important, able to permit the wine to age, without fear of cork taint. Given the product’s use of beeswax, DIAM has joined in the effort to bolster the honey bee population by investing in beehives in various French wine regions. Sokol Blosser is also showing its support for bees by donating $1 for every bottle sold under the new Origine cork to the Eugene, OR-based Save the Bee organization through April 2019. This funding will help the Oregon State University and Washington State University honeybee labs, which conduct vital research into the declining honey bee population and also teach beekeeping skills to the community. But, of course, what’s in the bottle is still important. And, make no mistake, Sokol Blosser continues to live up to its reputation as a producer of high quality Pinot Noir!
Sokol Blosser Dundee Hills Pinot Noir 2015, Dundee Hills (OR), USA, $40.00 A beautiful, complex nose with aromas of earth, barnyard and dried cherries gives way to a dry palate with rich, ripe cherry fruit flavors, along with bright acidity, low tannins, medium body and very long length.
NB: If you are looking to be more sustainable yourself, here are some ideas of what to do with your own collections of corks: DIY Projects and Cork Recycling Options.
Notes from Napa
Maxville, the final (vinous) fr
O
ne of the beautiful things about wine is the way it brings people together. Sitting around with a glass or two (or more …) provides the opportunity to talk about the wine in question, but it just as easily opens the door for conversations about nearly anything. Such was the case when I met George Bursick, the new Executive Winemaker for Maxville Winery. His warmth is infectious, making you feel at ease and at home in his company and we shared lots of stories ranging from retirement destinations, home renovation projects, cheesecake recipes and dogs.
Valley AVA was established in 1999, but its first vineyards were planted as early as the mid-1800s, and the Maxville site is part of the original land grant given to Joseph Chiles in 1844. Now home to some of the oldest vines in Napa County, the distinctive valley offers up high elevations that help to temper the climate and provide good diurnal variation, along with a long growing season that permits the vines to thrive and the grapes to reach full maturity. With 100 acres of vines currently planted, and another 40 acres planned, Maxville relies solely on estate-grown fruit to produce its wines. Even at its current size, George acknowledges that not all of the fruit is worthy of the winery’s top wines and thus, they are launching a secondary label, Big Max, which will permit them to produce Napa Valley wines under $30.00. These wines are set to hit the market early in 2019.
But, of course, we did also talk about wine. Graduating from what he refers to as the “famous UC Davis class of ’76,” George left the program with a master’s degree in Enology and quickly found work as winemaker for McDowell Valley Vineyards in Mendocino County. He then distinguished himself in the Sonoma And, as George begins to more Valley, with posts at Ferarrifully understand the vineyards Carano (where he was instrumenunder his purview, he is exploring tal in building its varietal portfothe use of different clones and lio) and then at J Vineyards and Winery (expanding his rep- seeing how these vines marry with the estate’s terroir. He is ertoire to cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay), repeat- similarly energized about having these various clones as part edly earning top marks for his wines. of the ingredients from which to craft his wines in the stateof-the-art winery. He left J Vineyards in 2011 to focus full-time on his wine consulting business, but, more recently, has been lured to When asked about this greater reliance on winemaking techthat “other” valley by an opportunity, which he describes as nology since his days at Davis, George reflected that the bar his last vinous frontier – crafting Napa Valley Cabs. When has been considerably raised. He explained that, back then, asked why, he promptly replied, “Why not?” But, clarified it was enough to make reasonably good wine, but today’s his answer, noting that the chance to work with such great consumer expects the highest quality. He feels that the techfruit in such an historic setting, coupled with the high end nological tools help make that possible, but he also adds set up at Maxville, was just too exciting to pass up. that, with this high-tech equipment, they have given him enough rope… If he can’t produce top wines with all of The 1,000-acre historic estate was once the site of a chilthese bells and whistles at his disposal, he knows that his dren’s summer camp and then home to Catacula Lake Win- time at Maxville will be short. ery, but was derelict for many years before it was purchased three years ago by Qinghai Huzhu Barley Wine Co., Ltd. in Despite the possible pressure, George is thrilled about this Haidong in China. Seeing the property’s great potential, the new challenge and eager to put his personal stamp on the Chinese company spared no expense in outfitting the winery wines. In particular, he advised that his predecessor prowith top of the line equipment. It was this investment that duced wines more Bordelais in style and noted that, having was a big part of the appeal for George. written his graduate thesis on Factors affecting Wine Body, he brings a fatness or heft to his wines, a style he will apply George is also enthusiastic about Maxville’s location in the to the Maxville wines going forward. Chiles Valley. A sub-appellation of the Napa Valley, Chiles
rontier for George Bursick When not immersed in winemaking, George likes to take the time to appreciate the non-vinous aspects of the Maxville estate, extolling its virtues as a peaceful, Buddhist-like sanctuary, complete with a large lake. The property also boasts a cook’s kitchen and guest entertainment such as ATVs and archery, but of course, these pursuits must be enjoyed before tasting the wines. TASTING NOTES In between our lively conversation over lunch, we tasted through the current selection of Maxville’s wines: Maxville Sauvignon Blanc 2016, Napa Valley (CA), USA, SRP $33.99 Produced from the Musque clone, this wine was fresh and bright with slight floral and citrus aromas, with a dry palate displaying lovely, intense citrus and long length. Maxville Cabernet Franc 2014, Napa Valley (CA), USA, SRP $66.99 This wine is a blend of 90% Cabernet Franc, with the remainder given over to Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. As vintag-
es permit, George expects to increase the percentage of Cab Franc going forward and recently planted three different clones of the variety. With lush black fruit aromas, the wine offered up notes of boysenberry, black fruit, with just a hint of Cab Franc’s signature herbaceous character, balanced with nice acidity and a full body. Maxville Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, Napa Valley (CA), USA, SRP $66.99 Compared to the Cabernet Franc, the Cabernet Sauvignon was a more structured wine, with darker black fruit aromas and flavors, firm tannins. It also showed good acidity and long length. Maxville Petite Sirah 2014, Napa Valley (CA), USA, SRP $66.99 Maxville only produces a small quantity of this wine, given its tannic nature and need for lengthy aging to tame the tannins. It offered up lots of red fruit and was quite spicy on the nose and palate.
Notes from Napa
Table set, match: A meeting of the food and wine minds of Janssens and Kornack particular, at Robert Mondavi Winery, inspired her to arrive on Mondavi’s doorstep in 1978. She was promptly hired as a lab technician by his Chief Enologist, Zelma Long, another pioneering woman in the industry. Although that initial post lasted only a year, Genevieve returned to work closely with Mondavi for several decades, including a ten-year stint at Opus One Winery, a joint venture between Mondavi and the Baron Philippe de Rothschild of Château Mouton Rothschild. During that time, she rose to the rank of Chief Winemaker for Robert Mondavi Winery. Among her numerous honors, Genevieve was named Wine Enthusiast‘s 2010 Winemaker of the Year and was recognized by the French government as an “Officier” of the The Ordre National du Mérite Agricole. In keeping with Mondavi’s emphasis on food and wine pairing, the winery recently partnered with the James Beard Foundation to create a five-year scholarship for the advancement of wine education in the U.S. Accordingly, as a thrice nominated James Beard “Rising Star Chef,” it was especially fitting for Elise to have been chosen as Chef for the dinner event. Previously, Elise created the Michelin-starred restaurant Take Root in Brooklyn, which she ran from 2013-2017.
Two trailblazing women joined forces last week for a one-of -a-kind dinner featuring the incredible wines of Robert Mondavi Winery(produced under the direction of Chief Winemaker Genevieve Janssens) and the exquisite food of Chef Elise Kornack. Both women have distinguished themselves in their respective fields, earning well deserved and well-earned accolades and awards. Marrying their individual expertise, Genevieve and Elise collaborated on an amazing menu that paired harmoniously with the wines. In speaking about the partnership, Elise explained that it had been a wonderful opportunity “to partner with someone who loves what she does as much as I do,” and noted that the experience working together had been quite fun, providing her with a different perspective as she considered the food in context with the wines. Originally from France, Genevieve was born into a viticultural family and studied with many luminous wine professionals including Emile Peymaud, eventually earning a Diploma of Enology at the University of Bordeaux. News about the exciting things going on in the Napa Valley and, in
Recognized as one of Conde Nast’s “10 Young Chefs to Watch,” among her lengthy list of superlatives; last year, Elise and her wife moved to the Catskills region in upstate New York, where she is at work on a new restaurant in Phoenicia. (As a part-time resident of Saugerties, NY, I am eagerly anticipating its opening.)
yielding highly concentrated wines, with firm tannins, yet a softness as well. In this regard, the wine was a perfect example of Mondavi’s philosophy to, “Make Cabernet SauviAs she spoke about her approach to food, Elise shared her gnon as soft as a baby’s preference for humble ingredients, varied textures, earthy bottom and powerful as flavors and notes of nostalgia, as we head into the fall and Pavarotti.” While both wines were absolutely beautiful, I fawinter seasons. But, while her palate colors and flavors might vored the 2008 for its development and tertiary aromas, be “humble,” – starring such vegetables as rutabaga, celery though still quite fresh at ten years old. and turnips – she elevates them to high art on the plate. Noting that she was The meal opened a big fan of cream with a dish comprised pies, the meal conof celery, turnip and cluded with Elise’s pear with ginger, alriff on one that inmond and sheep’s cluded apple and fig milk cheese, served leaf with seeds, tualongside the 2016 meric and honey, Robert Mondavi Win- served with the ery Chardonnay Re- 2017 Robert Monserve, Carneros, CA, davi Winery MosNapa Valley. The cato d’Oro, Napa crunchy texture of the Valley. The pie was creamy, yet light, and was well matched vegetables balanced with the acidity and sweetness of the dessert wine. well with the creaminess of the cheese, During the reception, we had the opportunity to taste the while the acidity of the wine provided a lovely counterpoint, Fumé Blanc (aka Sauvignon Blanc) Reserve 2016 To Kalon along with the interplay of the slight woody notes of the wine Vineyard, Napa Valley. This wine, along with the 2015 Cab with the ginger and almond on the plate. Sav we tasted, hail from the famed To Kalon vineyard, which is Greek for beautiful. First planted (and named) in the late 1800s by Hamilton Walker Crabb, an early Napa pioneer, the The second course featured beluga lentils vineyard was initially re-established by Mondavi on a 12-acre site. Today, the historic property, known for its optimum and wild mushrooms with cranberry, coffee conditions, now comprises 550 acres, with 435 under Monand truffle, presented davi’s ownership. with the 2015 Robert Mondavi Winery Cab- As the evening winded down, it was clear that the food and ernet Franc, Oakville, wine had been impeccable, made more so not only by the Napa Valley and 2014 intentional collaboration between Genevieve and Elise, but also by the collegial atmosphere in which they had been Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville, Napa Valley. served; an experience that will not be easily matched. I especially enjoyed the herbaceous character of the Cabernet Franc with the rich, earthy flavors of the mushrooms and truffles as well as the echoed notes of fruitiness between the wine and cranberry. The third plate brought together New York strip, rutabaga and a sauce of smoked corn, peppercorn and mustard seed, paired with a duo of Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignons: 2015 The Reserve To Kalon Vineyard, Oakville, Napa Valley and 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Napa Valley. Genevieve explained that 2015 had been a drought year,
You Can Go Home Again: A Visit to Macari Vineyards
They say you can’t go home again, but our visits to the North Fork of Long Island, post-real estate sale, continue to make us feel welcome. And nowhere was that more apparent than at our former next door neighbor, Macari Vineyards. Living next door to a winery is great! As I liked to joke when we visited the tasting room with house guests – it was stagger distance. But, all kidding aside, they truly were great neighbors. From the very beginning, the Macari’s were kind, warm and generous. While most people consider borrowing a cup of sugar from their neighbors in a pinch, we borrowed their winemaking expertise in the form of a chemical analysis of the wine that my husband made with two friends from Macari fruit. Plus, they produce amazing wine, currently under the direction of winemaker Kelly Urbanik Koch. So, when my husband’s employer decided to do an event on the North Fork, we knew that Macari would figure prominently on the agenda. Upon arrival, the assembled guests (a group of employees, management and advisory board members) were provided with a tour of the winery, followed by a guided tasting with Alexandra Macari in their beautiful, Private Barrel Cellar. Afterward, we enjoyed dinner on the deck, accompanied by an assortment of Macari wines.
All in all, it was a wonderful visit and we definitely felt at home! TASTING NOTES
Macari Sparkling Pinot Noir Gabriella 2012, $35.00
Named in honor of Alexandra and Joe’s daughter – and an integral part of the Macari team – Gabriela, this effervescent wine offered up aromas of cotton candy, cherries and yeastiness. On the palate, it is dry with medium+ acidity, ripe berries, cream and melon.
Macari Sparkling Cabernet Sauvignon “Horses” 2016, $N/A
This unfiltered, non-disgorged (and thus, cloudy) sparkler, is named for a vineyard area called horse head bluff because, well, it looks like a horse’s head. Pale salmon in color, the wine is slightly off-dry, with slight cherry fruit, strawberry cream and toasted marshmallow on the cleansing palate. It is currently sold out; make sure to catch it next time around.
Macari Sauvignon Blanc “Katherine’s Field” 2016, $24.00 Fermented in 100% stainless steel, this wine displays notes of slight smoke, citrus, and tropical fruit, which persisted on the clean, fresh palate, with a slight spritz and long length.
Macari Sauvignon Blanc Lifeforce (2016), $28.00
In contrast to the Katherine’s Field Sauvignon Blanc, this wine is fermented in concrete egg-shaped tanks yielding an edgier, more structural wine with angularity, heaviness and a fuller body, along with intense acidity (whereas the other SB is softer and rounder).
Macari Chardonnay Reserve 2014, $27.00
This full-bodied white was barrel fermented in two- and three -year old French oak, resulting in aromas and flavors of toothpick, apple and spice, along with medium+ acidity. Macari Bergen Road 2013, $50.00 This Bordeaux-style wine leads with 51% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Aromas of black cherry, oak, balsamic vinegar, give way to flavors of herbs, earth, oak and spice on the dry, full-bodied palate, culminating in long length. Macari Alexandra 2010, $85.00 This flagship red blend is made only in top vintages, mostly from Merlot. It presents with dark fruit, smoke, vanilla as well as beautiful dried fruit, dried herbs and resolved tannins on the full-bodied, lush, palate. Only 200 cases were made.
no sign of life and he was beginning to think that he had been punked. Soon he came to a small village and was assured that he was close to his destination. Another 40 minutes of driving brought him face to face with the tall, Swiss gentleman who promptly laughed at seeing the small, compact rental car in which Thibault had made the journey. Still disbelieving, Thibaut permitted Donald to give him a tour of the mountainous property, which was barren desert – more suited to cacti than Cabernet. Then, he saw the eight hectares of pre-phylloxera vines and was duly impressed.
orn, raised and educated in Burgundy, Thibaut Delmotte launched his wine career doing three harvests each in Burgundy and Bordeaux before taking a year off to travel throughout South America. He booked an open ticket, headed to Buenos Aires and visited Argentina, Chile and Brazil, eventually finding himself somewhat settled in Salta teaching French at the local Alliance Française. When a new acquaintance discovered his background as a winemaker she told him about a high elevation vineyard north of the city. He didn’t believe it was possible to grow vines at such an altitude but was intrigued enough to secure an appointment with the man behind the project: Donald Hess.
Hess spoke about his grand plans for multiple vineyards and a large capacity winery. Thibaut was excited about the opportunity, but readily admitted to his lack of experience to take on such a project. Undeterred, Donald continued with the tour and invited Thibaut to lunch that afternoon. But, before the meal, he was to take part in a blind tasting during which he was asked to taste and rank 10 wines in order of his preference. It was the ultimate job interview! When Thibaut’s least favorite wine was revealed to be the Colome Malbec Reserva he was certain he had blown his chance, but Donald appreciated his feedback as to why the Frenchborn and bred winemaker didn’t find the overt/ powerful wine to his liking. Hess offered him the job on the condition that he commit to the post for at least three years. That was fifteen years ago. In the early years, the emphasis was on building the new winery, developing the vineyards and, equally important, investing in the local village to upgrade its infrastructure, increase its access to education and solve social ills such as alcoholism and teen pregnancy. It was also necessary to create own electricity Despite its initial rusticity, the Colome property itself dates to 1831, when it was established by the IsasmendiDávalos family. It remained in the Dávalos family until 2001, when Hess was finally able to purchase the property. Hess himself was first acquainted with Colome and its potential while visiting his great aunt in Buenos Aires several years prior and had the opportunity to taste an old bottle of its wine.
Thibaut and Donald arranged to meet at the property at 9:00 AM, which required Thibault to depart Salta at 5:00 In addition to the state-of-the-art winery, Colome’s esAM. By 6:00 AM, the pavement gave way to gravel as he tate is home to the James Turrell Museum. Turrell is a snaked his way up the mountain. By 9:00 AM, there was
California-based, light and space artist, whose experiential installations defy explanation. To get a better sense of his art, please see: http:// www.bodegacolome.com/museo/?lang=en The winery attracts 8,000 visitors each year who usually spend half a day tasting wine and visiting the museum. A nine-room hotel is also available on the estate for those who wish to stay over. More recently, the focus has been on two special projects: Autentico and Altura Maxima (maximum height). The Autentico project relies on doing things the “old way.” In this regard, the best blocks of 100 year+ vines are still trained using the pergola system, watered with flood (instead of drip) irrigation, treated without chemicals and generally approached with a low intervention philosophy. This approach continues in the winery, where the use of oak is eschewed in favor of showing the true (authentic) wine in the glass, uncovered by wood aromas and flavors. At a height of 3,111 meters (10,200 feet) in altitude, Altura Maxima is the highest vineyard in the world (although a recently planted plot in Tibet threatens to take this title away). It was initially planted in 2007 to Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc, as well as Malbec. Given the elevation, the vines receive more ultraviolet light, forcing them to develop thicker skins on the grapes. This ultimately produces wines
with more structure and concentration, while the 25 degree diurnal difference ensures that the wines retain high levels of acidity and elegance. All of this comes at a price; the very extreme conditions mean that wasps, donkeys and frost are all threats to the fruit. Thus, the vineyard only yields a small production of grapes (4 kilos per hectare compared to 7 kilos per hectare).
TASTING NOTES
Colome Autentico 2017, Salta, Argentina, $onpremise only
This 100% Malbec is deep purple in color with intense aromas of wood, plum, black fruit. The dry palate displays very ripe blackberry and blueberry joined by floral and spice, with firm, ripe tannins, full body and medium+ length. It is released young, but can age five to seven years.
Colome Altura Maxima 2014, Salta, Argentina, $125.00
Also 100% Malbec, this wine spends 23 months in old oak and one year in bottle before release. It is a very floral Malbec with fine grained tannins.
Background Image courtesy of Colome Winery
All content and images, copyright Š 2018 Tracy Ellen Kamens. All rights reserved. www.ItsAWinederfulLife.com | contactme (at) TracyEllenKamens.com