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春櫻蕩漾 落英繽紛賞花季
BLOSSOMING BEAUTY Sakura season comes into full flower in Japan and Taiwan
台灣好聲音 後生新唱客語歌
Taiwanese musicians bring a new beat to Hakka sounds
江南神仙地 茗峰悠然見杭州
Teahouses, hills and hiking: the quintessential charms of Hangzhou
THE MAGAZINE OF TRANSASIA MARCH–APRIL 2014
杭州
杭州正夯
杭州西湖名滿天下，因產於龍井村而得名的龍 井茶同樣無人不曉。唐朝茶聖陸羽所著的《茶經》 是世界第一部茶葉專著，書中更提到了龍井茶，讓 世人首次注意到這甘甜芬芳的綠茶。 18世紀乾隆皇帝下江南，在杭州初嚐龍井茶 後，龍心大悅，立刻下令將18棵龍井茶樹封為御茶 樹，這18棵御茶樹至今仍佇立在杭州御茶園中。自 此之後，口感清甜、柔和、甘香又略帶苦澀的龍井 茶迅速躍升為大陸的頂級茶品。 現在每年有數以百萬計的遊客蜂擁到杭州都是 衝著龍井茶而來，甚至想體驗親自採茶的樂趣。以 下活動肯定能吸引愛茶之人，以及對文化感興趣的 遊客。
GET THE HANG OF IT
千百年來，杭州龍井茶備受帝王、文人、饕客們鍾愛， 但坐擁湖光山色的杭州的吸引力遠不止於此 Hangzhou’s aromatic Longjing tea has captured the hearts of China’s literati, gourmets and emperors for more than 1,000 years. But though it’s everywhere in Zhejiang’s provincial capital, there’s much more to admire in this most scenic of Chinese towns. Here’s how to enjoy the city’s aesthetic appeal
THE CITY OF HANGZHOU in eastern China is most famous for two things: the glittering, romantic West Lake and one of the country’s best green teas, Longjing. Named after its place of origin, Longjing (literally “Dragon Well”) village in the city’s south-east, the loose-leaf tea first caught people’s attention when it was featured in The Classic of Tea, the world’s first monograph about the drink, written in the 8th century by renowned Tang Dynasty poet and the “Sage of Tea” Lu Yu. The Qing Emperor Qianlong was so pleased with his cup of cha on his visits to Hangzhou in the 18th century that he issued an imperial warrant for 18 Longjing tea trees, which still stand in the village’s Imperial Tea Garden. Thereafter, the refreshing, nutty, slightly bitter beverage rose to stardom and today, millions of tourists flock to Hangzhou every year to sip the iconic drink, or even try to pick it with their own hands. Here are some of the best activities to impress both tea buffs and culture-curious tourists.
WORDS TRACY YOU PICTURES RALPH OLIVIER
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淡妝濃抹總相宜的西湖
West Lake
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杭州
杭州風景名勝多不勝數
Hangzhou has some of eastern China's most captivating landscape
「許多茶農都把自己的住家變成茶館，讓遊客歇一 歇腳，喝杯家常龍井茶。」 Most farmers open up their homes as teahouses where tourists can sit down for a glass of no-frills local brew
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美飲：法雲安縵和茶館 位於杭州的法雲安縵酒店設有30個座位的和茶 館，環境與氣氛一流，以大型木珠裝飾傾斜屋頂， 茶几、茶具簡潔典雅，委婉內斂風格貼近中國古老 文化。 和茶館老闆龐穎是知名品茶家，常 為客人講解茶道心得以及古人養生 之道，搭配茶品的茶宴菜色天天 變換。茶館就位於古意昂然的 法雲村，清幽寧靜，不時見 到僧侶路過。 www.amanresorts.com/ amanfayun/home.aspx 樂遊：龍井村 樸素平靜的龍井村，至 今仍是杭州的主要茶產地。 許多茶農都把自己住家變成 茶館，讓遊客歇歇腳，喝杯家 常龍井茶。不懂茶的人一般很難 分辨茶葉的真偽好壞，所以最好還 是審慎選擇。 不想喝茶的人，也可以在周遭漫步閒逛，沈 浸於如詩如畫的美景中。龍井村的健行步道景色迷 人，穿過龍井村就可徒步進入九溪十八澗，兩側峰 巒起伏，小溪潺潺，愜意悠閒。每逢3月及4月採茶 葉季節，可以向當地大型旅行社報名參加採茶體驗 行程。 lvyou.baidu.com/longjingcun/
DRINK: HARMONY TEA HOUSE, AMANFAYUN As part of the Hangzhou branch of celebrated resort brand Aman, the 30-seat Harmony is the most beautiful and atmospheric teahouse in the city. Under a huge inclined roof supported by chunky wooden beans, the furniture and teaware are arranged in a clean, neat and reserved way echoing ancient Chinese culture. Owner Pang Ying is a respected tea connoisseur who’s often on site to nurture guests with tea philosophy and “ancient Chinese ways of life”. Harmony offers a tea feast to pair with the drink, and the menu changes daily. Located in the Zen village Fayun, the venue is hidden deep inside Aman’s impeccable garden where monks still pass through the narrow paths to meditate. www.amanresorts.com/amanfayun/home.aspx PLAY: DRAGON WELL VILLAGE This sleepy village was the birthplace of Longjing, and is still a major tea plantation in Hangzhou. Most farmers open up their homes as teahouses where tourists can sit down for a glass of no-frills local brew, but think twice about buying, as it can be hard for casual sippers to tell whether they’re getting the real deal. Alternatively, you can hike. Dragon Well offers one of China’s best urban walking routes, linking it up with picturesque forest reserve Jiuxi Shibajian via boundless rolling farms. Tea picking can be arranged via travel agencies during March and April’s harvest. www.hzwestlake.gov.cn
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穿越九溪十八澗， 盡情飽覽龍井村健行步道 上的優美風光 資訊 人人都知道「上有天堂， 下有蘇杭」，而西湖絕對 是必遊之地。西湖面積約 6.5平方公里，不妨乘坐 手划船，體驗西湖慢遊的 樂趣。 FACTS --------------•The 6.5sqkm West
Lake is what everybody comes to Hangzhou to see, and the reason why the city is dubbed China’s “heaven on Earth”. Hire a boat for a customised West Lake boat tour. まとめ --------------• 杭州へ来る観光客の目 的の多くは、中国の 「地上 の楽園」と言われている 6.5 平方キロメートルある ここ西湖。ボートツアー で楽しんでほしい
龍井茶最早可追溯至唐代
Longjing's renown for tea producing dates back to the 8th century
Dragon Well offers one of the best walking routes in China, linking the ancient village with a picturesque forest reserve
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「龍井茶不僅是上乘的飲品，更可以入饌提味， 製成茶饍佳餚。」 Longjing tealeaves make not only a brilliant brew, but also proper banquet delicacies
資訊 --------------• 龍井草堂的環境十分優 美，餐廳只設八張餐桌， 每天供應擺盤精緻、來自 有機農場的新鮮菜餚。 FACTS --------------• Dragon Well Manor
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is one of the most scenic and impressive restaurants in Hangzhou. The eighttable restaurant serves fresh, organic and beautifully presented farmhouse food. まとめ --------------• 龍井草堂 (Dragon Well Manor) は、 杭 州 一 眺 め が素晴らしいと言われる レストランの一つ。 わず か８テーブルのみのこの レストランでは、新鮮な オーガニックや農場野菜 を使った料理が美しく並 ぶ。
必到：中國茶葉博物館 位於雙峰村且鄰近楊公堤的這座博物館，占地 8000平方米，是大陸唯一以茶為專題的博物館。五 個常設展廳豐富多采，從飲茶歷史到茶具演化，讓 你一次看盡中國數千年茶文化發展。而且博物館四 周茶園簇擁，以花廊、曲徑、池沼、水 榭等串連，還有一尊陸羽的雕像。 當地社團茶語網不時在博物館 舉行收費及免費的茶文化講座 （www.teatalking.cn），展覽 場地則可免費進入。 www.teamuseum.cn 佳餚：茶饍滋味 龍井茶葉不僅是上乘 的飲品，還可以入饌提味。 龍井蝦仁是享負盛名的杭州 菜之一，新鮮河蝦去殼調味 後，配以清香的龍井茶及茶葉 快炒而成，口感清爽多汁，茶香 撲鼻。可到坐落在湖邊的山外山餐 廳試試這道佳餚。嗜甜者則別錯過知味 觀的龍井茶酥，精緻小巧的茶酥充滿綠茶香氣，甜 而不膩。 山外山 www.shanwaishan.com 知味觀 www.zhiweiguan.com.cn
VISIT: CHINA NATIONAL TEA MUSEUM Located amid the jade-green tea plantations in Shuangfeng Village, and a quick drive west of renowned scenic spot Yang Gong Causeway, this 8,000sqm museum serves up a strong dose of Chinese tea culture. Five exhibition halls feature everything from the history of drinking tea leaves to the evolution of tea sets. The well-manicured garden is the best part of the complex: stroll in the expanse criss-crossed by streams and wooden bridges, with lovely ponds, poetic pavilions and a statue of Lu Yu. The museum hosts tea-culture lectures organised by a local community, Tea Talking (www.teatalking.cn); the exhibition space itself is free to enter. http://english.teamuseum.cn EAT: TEA CUISINE Longjing tealeaves make not only a brilliant brew, but also proper banquet delicacies. Longjing xiaren, or shrimp meat, is the most famous derivative and a leading Hangzhou dish. Freshly caught river shrimps are shelled, marinated then fried with Longjing tea and tealeaves, resulting in a plate of succulent, fragrant seafood: try it at time-honored lakeside restaurant Shanwaishan. For those with a sweet tooth, the Dragon Well Tea Pastries at Zhiweiguan are not to miss. The dainty, bite-size dessert locks in green tea’s aroma without being overly sweet. Shanwaishan: www.shanwaishan.com Zhiweiguan : www.zhiweiguan.com.cn
滿目青翠的龍井茶園
Longjing tea terraces
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中国東部にある杭州市は２つのことで有名。一つ目はキラキラ輝くロマンチックな西湖、そして二つ目は中国でも最 高位の緑茶、龍井茶だ。街の東南にある龍井（龍の井戸の意）村から名付けられたこの茶葉は、唐朝時代の有名な 詩人と “茶聖” 陸羽によって８世紀に書かれた “茶経 (The Classic of Tea)” に登場したことで初めて人々の目に留まった。
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杭州
杭州好介紹 換個方式到杭州走透透 參觀 -------------• 香火鼎盛的靈隱寺 位於西湖西北面，背 靠靈隱山，大殿正中 的釋迦牟尼蓮花坐像 高達19.6公尺。
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--------------• 造訪河坊街的中藥店胡慶餘堂，讓中 醫師為你把把脈，也可以買點中藥材。 FACTS -------------• Visit renowned Chinese medicine
住宿 -------------• 杭州西溪悅榕莊位 於中國第一個濕地保 護區——西溪國家濕 地公園畔，提供72間 套房，其頂級水療服 務包括綠茶茶浴。 www.banyantree. com/zh/hangzhou 住宿 -------------• 杭州雷迪森鉑麗大 飯店的532間客房面 積位居杭城酒店之 首，以簡約歐式風格 和奢華空間感營造顯 赫尊貴的大家風範。 www.parkrayhotel. com
store Huqingyu Tang on Hefang Street to have doctors diagnose your pulse or bring back home some authentic Chinese medicines.
ACTIVITY -------------• Pray for good
fortune at Lingyin Temple. Located on Lingyin Mountain northwest of the West Lake, the buzzing temple contains a 19.6m-tall gilded statue of Gautama Buddha. STAY -------------• The 72-suite
Banyan Tree Hangzhou is located next to China’s only urban wetland, Xixi Wetland, and offers top-notch spa therapies including a green, tea-themed bath and shower. www.banyantree. com/en/hangzhou STAY -------------• Grand Parkray
Hangzhou offers 532 elegant rooms and suites designed in exquisite European style. www.parkrayhotel. com
まとめ -------------• 河坊 (Hefang) 通りにある漢方薬で有 名な “胡慶餘堂 (Huqing yu Tang)”。こ の機会に本物の漢方をお土産にどうぞ。
アクティビティー -------------• リンギン寺で開運 祈願。西湖の西北、 リンギン ( 靈 隱 ) 山 にある高さ 19.6 メー トルの金色の釈迦像 が鎮座する寺院。 泊まる -------------• バンヤンツリー杭 州は中国唯一の湿 地、西溪湿地に隣接 し、最高のスパも満 喫できる。 www.banyantree. com/ja/hangzhou
WWW.TNA. COM.TW
復興航空每週 提供多班台北 松山–杭州航 線服務。 TransAsia has several flights weekly to Hangzhou from Taipei Songshan. トランスアジ ア航空は、 台北 松山から杭州 へ週に数便運 航中。
「位於城南的河坊街重建清代 熱鬧街景，攤販擺賣各種紀念 品和小擺設。」 復航空服員Celia Hu
“At the southern part of the city, Hefang Street is a restored Qing-style shopping street." Celia Hu, TNA crew RENAISSANCE
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