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古色新情 台北老建築仍然勃發我們的心跳
STEPPING INTO THE PRESENT Taipei’s historic townhouses get a new lease of life
台灣在地釀 酒商懷抱偉 大夢想 NO SMALL BEER: TAIWANESE INDEPENDENT BREWERS GO GLOBAL
感受貴州 苗族炫麗的 人文風情 THE MAGAZINE OF TRANSASIA MAY–JUNE 2014
Guiyang comes alive with the Miao minority’s folksongs and dance
旅遊熱點
專題特寫 貴陽、台灣、台北
IMAGE RICH MATHESON
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貴州
WHAT’S GUIYANG ON
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貴州的多民族人文美景如萬花筒般多姿多采，一起到貴州 省會貴陽市，探索其獨特不同的異域魅力
WORDS TRACY YOU ILLUSTRATIONS ANDREA SMITH FOR ILLUSTRATIONROOM.COM.AU
Guizhou Province is one of the most untapped parts of Mainland China – yet this secluded highland is an exciting kaleidoscope of ethnic cultures. We head to its capital city Guiyang to discover the best of what this exotic region has to offer
高原山地多的貴州，是領略大陸少數民族旖旎 風情的絕佳之地。中國56個民族當中有54個和諧共 居於此，人文景觀特別豐富。而全省的少數民族以 苗族人口最多，約占總人口的12%。精美的銀飾、 苗繡、蠟染是苗族傳統服飾的最大特色，貴州東南 部山區與中部貴陽市都是苗族聚居地。 要真實體驗多姿多采的苗族文化，且聽任職於 貴陽三家頂級飯店的在地居民的好介紹。
苗族服裝紋飾圖案精美
The colorful costumes of the Miao
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THE MOUNTAINOUS GUIZHOU PROVINCE in southern China is one of the best places to witness the country’s ethnic diversity. Fifty-four out of the total of 56 ethnic groups in China are said to call it home, each bringing in a colorful piece of the jigsaw that makes up Guizhou’s map of culture. Miao is the largest minority group residing in Guizhou, making up some 12% of the entire population. Traditional tie-dyed, embroidered fabric and breathtaking silver jewellery are de rigueur apparel for these friendly folks, whose presence spread from the rocky mountains in south-eastern Guizhou to the provincial capital Guiyang. Now three Guizhou residents who represent Guiyang’s top hotels reveal the best ways to experience magnificent moments of Miao culture.
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西江千戶苗寨是大陸保留最原始風味的苗寨 Xijiang (“Thousand-household”) Miao Village is one of the largest and best-preserved Miao villages in China 苗族以能歌善舞著稱
The Miao people are known for their songs and dancing
品嚐獨特酸湯魚 貴州菜又稱為黔菜，口味偏重，以辣、酸、 鹹為主。貴陽中天凱悅酒店公關部副經理李維指貴 州有一種很特別的吃魚法，「用野生番茄炮製一鍋 酸湯，然後放入魚。」這道酸湯魚是苗族的獨特風 味，紅紅酸酸辣辣，令人十分開胃。雖然用什麼魚 都可以，但李維指本地人都選擇肉質厚、魚刺不多 的鮰魚。 「老凱里」與「亮歡寨」兩家餐廳的酸湯魚譽 滿貴州，不但分量足，而且香濃味美，一吃就停不 了口。 與苗族跳舞同樂 西江千戶苗寨位於貴陽以東一個高原盆地，是 大陸規模最大且保留最原始風味的苗寨，搭火車前 往約需2小時。 貴陽凱賓斯基大酒店首席禮賓司陳利剛，把這 千戶苗寨喻為一座露天博物館，是觀賞與研究苗族 傳統文化的大看臺。放眼望去盡是高低錯落的杉木 吊腳樓，年輕的苗族男女每天都在中央廣場表演他 們最擅長的歌舞，你可以跟著他們一起跳，肯定會 很好玩。 另外，陳利剛建議遊客應留下來欣賞村寨的浪 漫黃昏景觀，他說：「天色一暗，西江千戶就變成 一片璀璨燈海，非常迷人。」
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名勝 --------------•彝族：大陸第七大少數 民族，分佈於貴州、四川 及雲南。每年農曆六月二 十四日舉行的火把節，是 彝族的盛大節日，人人載 歌載舞，氣氛熱烈。
FACTS --------------• Yi: One of China’s
largest minority groups, Yi people live in eastern Guizhou – as well as the neighboring provinces of Sichuan and Yunan – and hold the spectacular Fire Torch Festival on the 24th day in June (in the lunar calendar).
まとめ -------------• イ族：中国の少数民族 の一つで貴州東部や四川 省と雲南省に分布。毎年 旧 暦 の 6 月 24 日に盛 大 な 火 祭りが 開 催される。 村人たちは伝統衣装に身 を包み、村の中心のたき 火の周りで歌い、踊る。
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FINS TASTE DIFFERENT HERE Guizhou cuisine is known for its strong taste: it is spicy, sour and salty. “In Guizhou, there is a special way to cook fish,” says Daniel Li, deputy manager of public relations at Hyatt Regency Guiyang. “We boil fish in a special sour soup made with marinated wild tomatoes.” A specialty food of Miao ethnicity, the fish hotpot is bright orange thanks to its abundance of tomatoes, and has a rich, titillating and addictive taste to lure adventurous foodies. Although different fish can be used to make the soup, Li says that “most Guiyang locals prefer longnose catfish”. This type of fish is meaty and doesn’t have too many bones. Lao Kai Li and Liang Huan Zhai restaurants both offer the sublime stew in the heartiest, most irresistible manner. JOIN A DANCE AT A MIAO VILLAGE In a highland basin about two hours east of Guiyang by train, Xijiang is one of China’s largest, best-preserved Miao villages. Its full name, Xijiang “Thousandhousehold” Miao Village, shows the clan’s size. Oliver Chen, chief concierge at Kempinski Hotel Guiyang, considers the town to be a natural outdoor museum to observe and study traditional Miao culture. Surrounded by intricate wooden stilted buildings, jolly young men and women sing and dance every day in the centre of the village – something the ethnic group is nationally known for. Chen recommends visitors stay for the village’s impressive view in sunset. As he puts it: “At dusk, numerous households light up their homes and turn the village into a gleaming sea.” HAVE A BALL The ubiquitous sticky rice ball is a breakfast icon many grow up with, and Guiyang locals love them. “The ball is derived from Miao food culture, and is loved by people of different ethnicities,” says Tianchuan Bailing, banquet sales manager at Sheraton Guiyang Hotel. “Fragrant sticky rice is mixed with assorted ingredients to form a taste that’s hard to forget.”
貴州 苗族銀飾做工精緻細膩
Miao silver accessories are handmade and intricately designed
大口吃個糯米飯 糯米飯是貴陽人的最愛，也是他們的傳統早 餐。貴陽喜來登貴航酒店宴會行銷經理田川白玲介 紹說：「這糯米飯是從苗族飲食中發展而來，不同 民族的男女老幼都十分喜愛，以香甜的糯米飯搭配 各類食材，滋味令人回味無窮。」 他們的糯米飯可以加或不加醬油，餡料五花八 門，有馬鈴薯絲、海帶絲、油辣椒、脆哨（特別處 理的五花肉）、花生等，每個售價不超過6元人民 幣，又耐飽，是體驗道地貴陽風味的一個好選擇。 雖然滿街都賣糯米飯，但田川白玲說學校周邊 小販賣的最好吃，「九中和六廣校門口的糯米飯都 值得一試。」想到餐廳品嚐的話，位於都司路的黃 家糯食店也不錯。 悠哉遊哉逛古城 談到入選中國最美十大古城之鎮遠古鎮，貴陽 凱賓斯基大酒店的陳利剛認為「古鎮隨著歷史變遷 逐漸沉默安靜，成就了它與世無爭、寧靜淡雅的魅 力。」 舞陽河像條翡翠絲帶，靜靜流經這二千多年古 鎮。信步閒逛，蜿蜒巷道最引人入勝，記得抬頭欣 賞高高翹翹的馬頭牆，還有小巷道旁，各家大門斜 對著街道的「歪門邪道」風水佈局。 明朝曾有廣東惠州人遷移到鎮遠古鎮定居，古 鎮的建築風格因此具有苗族與惠州人的建築特色。 另外，陳利剛補充說：「鎮遠古鎮是夏天避暑 的最好去處，很多苗族節日都在夏天舉行。」 選購獨特伴手禮 來到貴陽，當然要買傳統中藥材與苗族銀飾。 苗族銀飾不僅是苗族必不可少的服飾配件，更是精 緻的藝術珍品。田川白玲指做工精美的正宗苗族銀 飾與苗族傳統服裝，售價甚至可超過萬元人民幣， 「不過繡錢袋、銀髮夾、銀手鐲也是很有意思的伴 手禮。」 「黔藝寶」與「黔粹行」是貴陽的知名旅遊紀 念品店，貨品十分齊全，有15元的銀耳墜，也有格 調優雅的30元蠟染布料，非常實惠又便於攜帶。 田川白玲還提醒說：「別忘了買天麻、杜仲、 靈芝等貴州特產中藥材。」
資訊 --------------• 布依族：貴州第二大少 數民族，主要居住在貴州 南部與西南部地區，還有 黃果樹大瀑布一帶。布依 族姑娘自小便跟著母親學 習蠟染技術。
FACTS --------------• Buyi: Guizhou’s second-
largest minority lives in the south of the province, including the area around Huangguoshu, the largest waterfall in Asia. They’re known for their tie-dye.
まとめ -------------• プイ族：貴州で２番目 に大きな民族。アジア最 大の滝フアングオシュ （黄 果樹）周辺の南西部一帯 に分布する。母から娘に 受け継がれる最高の絞り 染め技法で知られている。
Imagine it as a sushi ball, or a rice-based burrito. A variety of ingredients, such as potato strips, seaweed strips, chillis, sausages and peanuts are wrapped under a coat of plain or soy-sauced sticky rice. The filling snack usually doesn’t cost more than RMB6 per ball, and is a great way to experience Guiyang’s food culture in a local way. Vendors can be found on almost every street corner, but “the best ones are around schools,” says Tianchuan. “We recommend the ones outside No. 9 Middle School and Liuguangmen Stadium.” For a sitdown sticky rice meal, head to Huangjia Sticky Rice Restaurant on Dusi Road. STROLL AROUND ZHENYUAN’S ANCIENT TOWN Zhenyuan is dubbed one of the “10 most beautiful ancient cities of China” by Chinese media. According to Kempinski Hotel’s Chen: “The ancient town is quieter, but this also gives it a humble, elegant charm.” The peacock-green Wuyang River flows through this sleepy, 2,200-year-old town like smooth silk. Get lost in the many toothpick-narrow back alleys, for this is the best part of Zhenyuan. And don’t forget to observe the high walls, square “horse-head” eaves, and quirky, feng shui-enhanced front gates that form a timeless community. Zhenyuan’s unique architecture is a hybrid of Miao and Huizhou styles. The latter came about as a result of settlement by immigrants from the ancient Huizhou region in eastern China during the Ming Dynasty. Chen gives another tip: “Zhenyuan is a great summer resort, and there are many Miao festivals during summer time.” BRING HOME UNIQUE SOUVENIRS Traditional Chinese medicine and Miao silver jewelry are among the best souvenirs for you to bring back home from Guiyang. Miao silver is stunning – the material is an essential ornament for Miao people, and is used for a variety of purposes, ranging from fashion to interior decorations. Tianchuan Bailing says that real, luxurious Miao silver accessories, as well as costumes made with traditional fabric, can fetch more than RMB10,000. “But small, Miao-fabric purses, silver hairpins and silver bracelets can be lovely souvenirs,” he adds. Qian Yi Bao and Qian Cui Hang are two major souvenir stores. Most items are pliable and walletfriendly, such as a pair of silver earrings for RMB15 and a tie-dyed artistic cloth for RMB30. “And don’t forget to buy some well-known traditional Chinese medicines local to Guizhou, such as tianma, duzhong and lingzhi,” says Tianchuan.
中国南部の山岳地に位置する貴州省。中国の 56 民族のうち 54 民族がここ貴州を自分の故郷と呼び、一つ 一つがカラフルなジグソーパズルのように貴州の文化を形作っている。中でも最大規模の少数民族である ミャオ族は全人口の約 12％を占めており、伝統的な絞り染めに豪華な刺繍の衣装と美しい銀のアクセサリーでご 存知の方も多いはず。また貴州の料理は、辛い、酸っぱい、塩辛い味と非常に強い味でも知られており、ミャオ 族名物料理である魚の鍋料理は、食通たちを引き付ける刺激的で病み付きになる料理だ。
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貴州
貴陽好介紹 換個方式到貴陽走透透 美食 --------------•牛肉麵是許多貴州 人的最愛，「花溪牛 肉粉」源自貴陽花 溪，牛肉切片加米 粉、香料等，湯香味 美，與眾不同。 • 老凱里酸湯魚 雲岩區神賦路55號 +86 851 584 3665 • 亮歡寨酸湯魚 雲岩區飛山街55號 +86 851 528 8998
貼心提示 DETAILS 38 資訊 --------------• 侗族 天生愛唱歌的民族，多聲部、無指揮 伴奏、自然合聲的《侗族大歌》，於 2009年列入人類非物質文化遺產代表 作名錄。 FACTS --------------• Dong: Sharing the same
autonomous region with Miao in south-eastern Guizhou, the Dong people are natural singers. Their “Grand Song” is a large-scale a cappella performance and was enshrined by UNESCO in 2009 on its representative list as an Intangible Cultural Heritage.
--伴手禮 -----------•黔藝寶 北京路168號 +86 851 682 2511 • 黔粹行 瑞金北路201號 +86 851 650 4769 住宿 --------------•貴陽中天凱悅酒店 為中天國際會展中心 的重要組成部分，與 蔥翠的觀山湖公園 相連。 guiyang.regency.hyatt. com • 貴陽凱賓斯基大 酒店 位於市中心，步行可 到南明河，許多歷史 景點也距離不遠。 www.kempinski.com. en/guiyang
周辺では --------------• トン族：貴州南東部、ミャオ族同様の 自治区であるトン族は歌がうまい民族。 トン族が歌う グランドソング は大規 模なアカペラの演奏で、2009 年にはユ ネスコの無形文化遺産に登録された。
EAT --------------• Huaxi noodles, a
local favorite, are boiled with sliced beef, vegetables and spices. • Lao Kai Li Sour Fish Soup, 55 Shenfu Rd, Yunyan District; tel: +86 851 584 3665 • Liang Huan Zhai Sour Fish Soup, 55 Feishan Jie, Yunyan District; tel: +86 851 528 8998 BUY --------------•Qian Yi Bao, 1/F,
168 Beijing Rd; tel: +86 851 682 2511 Qian Cui Hang, 201 N Ruijin Rd; tel: +86 851 650 4769 STAY --------------•Hyatt Regency
Guiyang This hotel boasts a grand view of the lush Guanshanhu Park just next door. guiyang.regency. hyatt.com • Kempinski Hotel This central lodging is a few minutes’ walk from Nanming River, leading to historic buildings. www.kempinski. com.en/guiyang
食べる --------------• 貴陽の人々がこの 上なく好む一品牛肉 麺、フアシ （花溪） は、 牛肉のスライス、ビー フンにさまざまな野 菜とスパイスと一緒 に煮込んだもの。 • Lao Kai Li Sour Fish Soup • Liang Huan Zhai Sour Fish Soup 泊まる --------------• ハイアット リージェ ンシー グイヤン グイヤン国際会議・ エキビションセンター と隣接。 guiyang.regency. hyatt.com • ケンピンスキー ホテル 街の中心にあり、歴 史的建造物に通じる 南明川に徒歩数分。 w w w. k e m p i n s k i . com.en/guiyang
WWW.TNA. COM.TW
復興航空即 將開航台北 桃園–貴陽 航線 TransAsia is launching a new Taipei TaoyuanGuiyang route soon トランスアジ ア航空は、 台北 桃園から 大阪 へ週に数便運 航中。
「到貴陽旅遊，當然要吃 道地的花溪牛肉粉，風味獨 特，錯過可惜！」 復航空服員Janice Liu
“When in Guiyang, you must surely try Huaxi noodles." Janice Liu, TNA crew
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