Travel Love Poland Magazine - June 2018

JUNE – AUGUST 2018 | VOL 1 | ISSUE 4 ISSN 2515-8503

travel.lovePoland

through the lens

Poland by Night EXPERIENCE

After two years of making nights I was happy that the visitors liked the effects of my work.

Krzysztof Masiuk FALL IN LOVE WITH POLAND AT NIGHT

LOVEPOLAND.ORG

media partner witkacy theatre in Zakopane www.witkacy.pl

"Life makes most sense at the height of nonsense" Witkacy theatre is one of the most cherished theatres in Poland.

It was founded in 1984 in tribute to a Zakopane legend, Stanislaw Ignacy Witkiewicz.

VOLUME 1 ISSUE 4

from the editor

Dear Readers, Welcome to the summer edition of our Magazine. This season of the year encourages us to leave our homes, travel, discover and make new friends. In Poland, summer is beautiful and the possibilities of discovering and exploring the landscapes are almost limitless: from the Baltic Sea to the picturesque Tatra and wild Bieszczady Mountains.

We invite you to get to know different parts of Poland, including those less known. We start our journey with the Wieliczka Salt Mine – known probably to everyone and after a while we move to Wrocław, recognized as the best course of expeditions in Europe. While in Wrocław, you will be guided by Janusz Krzeszowski, a local photographer.

In this issue, we devote a lot of space to the project Fall in Love with Poland at Night, showing different places, sometimes less known to foreign tourists (e.g. Tarnów, Sucha Beskidzka, Bydgoszcz or Zielona Góra).

Summer in Poland is also a time for people with religious sensitivity to make pilgrimages to the places of worship. This time we invite you to St. Anne Mountain that will be presented to us by Błażej Duk, a photographer and the author of the website devoted to this sacred place.

A guide, Irek Szajba, will take us around Warsaw Royal Baths Park and the watercolour presented in the article will be the subject of the auction supporting our Magazine. Finally, our recommendation: a photo-story with a commentary by Krystian Bielatowicz, its author, devoted to shepherding and traditional cheese production in the Pieniny Mountains. Of course, this is not everything. Find more inside the Magazine. Thank you very much to the authors of the texts and photos for cooperation. You're welcome to visit Poland! Have a nice time with Travel.LovePoland. artur tomasz tureczek Editor-in-Chief Travel.LovePoland

Contributors to this issue: Wojciech Ciomborowski, Krzysztof Masiuk, Krystian Bielatowicz, Janusz Krzeszowski, Błażej Duk, Bartłomiej Jurecki, Paweł Pluciński, prof. Marceli Tureczek, Tadeusz Doroszko, Klaudiusz Pupiec, DRONE QUEST. Special thanks to Wieliczka Salt Mine for cooperation on this issue.

As always: our special BIG thanks to Kasia Śpiewankiewicz - graphic editor @britanniaweb.co.uk for your patience and support. Thank You. If you would like to support or cooperate with our magazine please contact us via: info@lovepoland.org

TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND online magazine published by love Poland ltd Registered office address: 178 Mitcham Road, London, England, SW17 9NJ Company number 10956488 Company registered in England and Wales. British Library ISSN 2515-8503 Copyrights by love Poland ltd and/ or authors of photographs and texts as indicated. All photographs and texts are published under the exclusive permission granted to travel.lovePoland Magazine by their authors. Please do not copy or publish without authorisation.

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T R A V E L . L O V E P O L A N D

M A G A Z I N E

VOL 1. ISSUE 4 JUNE – AUGUST 2018

CONTENTS Wieliczka Salt Mine 0 5

Wrocław Janusz Krzeszowski 1 4

St. Anne Mount Błażej Duk 3 8

6 4

8 8

Fall In Love with Poland at night Krzysztof Masiuk

Shepherds Krystian Bielatowicz

26 28 30 34 50 54 58 60 76 84 100 106 108

Panorama of the battle of Racławice Drawing Wrocław by Klaudiusz Pupiec Kościuszko Mound DRONE QUEST Bolesławiec pottery/ history Royal Baths in Warsaw with Irek Szajba Macro Wilderness by Paweł Pluciński Jan Matejko House Skull Chapel Wild horses by Tadeusz Doroszko The Świętokrzyskie Mountains Folk Costumes - Lesser Poland Wyszanowo.org - our charity project Summer Kitchen

photo on the front cover: Wrocław - Janusz Krzeszowski logo 1918-2018 by prezydent.pl ©

W I E L I C Z K A

PRESERVE THE TREASURE

photo: “Wieliczka” Salt Mine

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photo: lovePoland archive

Wieliczka

photo: R. Stachurski “Wieliczka” Salt Mine

photo: R. Stachurski “Wieliczka” Salt Mine

photo: “Wieliczka” Salt Mine

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Wieliczka SHOULD BE ON EVERYONE'S LIST OF VALUE-ADDED TRIPS to Poland. This is why: The “Wieliczka” Salt Mine is one of the most valuable monuments of material and spiritual culture in Poland. Each year it is visited by more than one million tourists from all over the world.

It is also a world class monument, featuring among twelve objects on the UNESCO’'s World Cultural and Natural Heritage List.

Today, the “Wieliczka” Salt Mine combines many centuries of tradition and modernity, the history of several hundred years and an underground metropolis with extensive infrastructure.

The mine is a product of work of tens of generations of miners, a monument to the history of Poland and to the Polish nation – a brand, present in Polish consciousness for centuries.

Magnificent chambers chiselled out in rock salt.

Amazing underground saline lakes, majestic timber constructions and unique statues sculpted in salt.

Almost 3 kilometres of meandering corridors, 800 steps to climb of which 350 have to be descended to reach the depth of 135 meters underground. Thus it is no surprise that till now, the Tourist Route, the main visiting route of the mine has been visited by 41,500,000 tourists from around the whole world in search of adventures.

The journey starts at the Danilowicz Shaft. Here, visitors meet their guide, who during their excursion will tell them everything they want to know about the mine history and its secrets. About the forces of nature ruling within the depths of the mine, about the ethos of hard work performed by the generations of miners.

Travelling further and further into the mine chasm tourists discover unusual places and see with their own eyes the power of human hands that once excavated rock salt, as well as magnificent mining tools and machines.

Visitors will also have the opportunity to see a completely different image of the mine hearing the legend about Princess Kinga and how she brought the salt treasure to Polish land. Half way along the route they will see the wondrous chapel dedicated to her and the saline works of art decorating the chapel. Visitors will have a moment for reflection hearing the music of Chopin accompanying a light and sound spectacle on the shores of one of the saline lakes. At the end, when they have tasted the specialities offered in the underground tavern, they will regain their strength to continue their journey to the Krakow Saltworks Museum. Here, they will see the intricately set in silver horn of an aurochs (1534) – the Saltdiggers’ Horn, experience an unforgettable meeting with history, as well as become familiar with ancient mining tools and instruments. This second part of the trip along the Tourist Route is a 1.5-kilometre journey, at the end of which they will be able to return to the surface in a lift.

As they say in the mine – back to the world.

A miner's lamp in your hand, a protective helmet on your head, and inside your head, the newly acquired knowledge about the use of underground equipment and the safety rules in place and also the shared taste for adventure and experiencing an extraordinary sense of excitement. You go underground down a shaft which dates back to a time when Poland was ruled by great kings. The elevator doors open wide, just like in a fairy tale, making you want to cry out "Open, the mine" because in a short while, you and all the participants of the expedition will see firsthand the greatest of treasures.

The unique, beautiful corridors and chambers of the “Wieliczka” Salt Mine await in the dark to be discovered.

Dense darkness conceals the amazing landscape sculpted in the salt by the forces of nature and human hands. The deep silence is disturbed only by the sound of steps. All the participants of the expedition will learn to know themselves better. This is the true secret of the mine in Wieliczka.

The Mysteries of the Wieliczka Mine route is an adrenaline-packed trip into the virgin areas of the “Wieliczka” Salt Mine. This is one of the mine's hardest routes as far as physical effort is concerned, but everyone who takes part in it will certainly not regret it.

The visitors, equipped with helmets, miners' lamps and carbon monoxide absorbers, under the watchful eye of a specialised guide, will begin their journey at the Regis Shaft, located in the centre of the town of Wieliczka, away from the traditional Tourist Route. During the few hours of expedition, the trail will lead them through the excavations of a particular historical and geological value.

Squeezing through narrow slits, bowing humbly in low passages, visitors will discover the truly magical power of the Wieliczka undergrounds.

Worth

KNOWING There are 20 chambers to visit - the Chapel of St. Kinga is the most brilliant one.

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photo: M Gardulski “Wieliczka” Salt Mine

photo: M Gardulski “Wieliczka” Salt Mine

photo: M Gardulski “Wieliczka” Salt Mine

Pilgrims’ Route Magnificent chapels, religious sculptures carved in salt, unique views. Beautiful chambers, galleries and passageways. Here, faith gives one strength for each step. It's time to go on an expedition along the religious route of the Wieliczka mine, the underground "God Bless" Pilgrims' Route.

The Pilgrims’ Route, blessed by His Eminence Cardinal Stanislaw Dziwisz in early 2010, is a beautiful testimony to the piousness of generations of Wieliczka miners working here. You can admire the magnificent sculptures in the chapel dedicated to Saint Anthony, with features blurred as a result of activity of the forces of nature and the relentless passage of time.

The wooden Golgotha of the Wieliczka miners will delight you with its artistry and elegance of execution.

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Your journey will be crowned by visiting the wonderful Chapel of St. Kinga where you will find splendid altars, a carved pulpit, a copy of Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper and a salt statue of John Paul II. You can spend long hours admiring the decor and the artistry works of art exhibited here.

The next stop for prayer is the Chapel of St. John characteristic for its wooden polychrome interior. Part of the route leads through the excavations of the “Wieliczka” Krakow Saltworks Museum where, in the one-and-only underground chapel dedicated to John Paul II, a cleric accompanying the pilgrimage group can say Holy Mass.

The pilgrims can also enjoy various dishes prepared especially for them and purchase religious souvenirs.

photo: R. Stachurski “Wieliczka” Salt Mine

photo: M Gardulski “Wieliczka” Salt Mine

GOOD TO KNOW...

photo: R. Stachurski “Wieliczka” Salt Mine

Wieliczka" Salt Mine ul. Daniłowicza 10 32-020 Wieliczka, Polska booking: rezerwacja@kopalnia.pl informacja@kopalnia.pl www.wieliczka-saltmine.com

For grownups and the little ones. With your family or a group of friends. A leisurely trip or an exciting adventure.

Everybody will find something for himself at the “Wieliczka” Salt Mine. All those who wish to see the Chapel of St. Kinga as well as other not less magnificent places are most welcome to visit the mine and travel along the always popular classic Tourist Route. Your admission ticket allows you to also visit the underground Kraków Saltworks Museum. Such a magical journey along the saline corridors of the labyrinth is an ideal opportunity to see the unique landscapes of extraordinary chambers,

discover the traditions and history of the Wieliczka mine.

Those searching for a real adventure and wanting to learn about the mine inside out can take part in the Miners’ Route expedition. Participants will play the roles of authentic miners and under the keen eye of a chargeman gain their first ever experience in working underground.

The Mysteries of the Wieliczka Mine route is an adrenaline-packed trip into the virgin areas of the “Wieliczka” Salt Mine. This is one of the mine's hardest routes as far as physical effort is concerned, but everyone who takes part in it will certainly not regret it.

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photo: M Gardulski “Wieliczka” Salt Mine

TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND M A G A Z I N E

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6:00 PM 10:00 PM

DAJ ZNAC SWIATU O SWOJEJ OFERCIE

ADVERTISE WITH US AND SUPPORT OUR MAGAZINE

www.lovepoland.org info@lovepoland.org

KTW

AIRPORTS IN POLAND

KATOWICE Katowice International Airport www.katowice-airport.com

WRO

WROCŁAW Wrocław-Copernicus Airport www.airport.wroclaw.pl

WAW

KRK

GDN

WARSZAWA

POZ

POZNAŃ

Warsaw Chopin Airport www.lotnisko-chopina.pl

Poznań–Ławica Henryk Wieniawski Airport www.airport-poznan.com.pl

KRAKÓW

OTHER AIRPORTS

John Paul II International Airport Kraków–Balice www.krakowairport.pl

Rzeszów Szczecin Lublin Bydgoszcz Łódź Olsztyn Zielona Góra Radom

GDAŃSK Gdańsk Lech Wałęsa Airport www.airport.gdansk.pl

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EXPLORER an interview with Janusz Krzeszowski by travel.lovePoland

Wrocław is the largest city in western Poland. It lies on the banks of the River Oder in the Silesian Lowlands of Central Europe, roughly 350 kilometres (220 mi) from the Baltic Sea to the north and 40 kilometres (25 mi) from the Sudeten Mountains to the south.

Wrocław is the historical capital of Lower Silesia. The history of the city dates back over thousand years, and its extensive heritage combines almost all religions and cultures of Europe. At various times, it has been part of the Kingdom of Poland, Kingdom of Bohemia, Kingdom of Hungary, Habsburg Monarchy, Kingdom of Prussia, German Empire, Weimar Republic and Nazi Germany.

A thriving multicultural centre, Wrocław is home to a growing student community and acts as the financial, cultural and commercial hub of western Poland, hosting a wide variety of cultural and sport events.

The city is classified as a Gamma- global city by GaWC. It was placed among the top 100 cities in the world for the quality of life. Wrocław hosted the Eucharistic Congress in 1997 and the Euro 2012 football championships. In 2016, the city was a European Capital of Culture and the World Book Capital. Also in this year, Wrocław hosted the Theatre Olympics, World Bridge Games and the European Film Awards.

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Wrocław the best European destination an interview with Janusz Krzeszowski We are talking to Janusz Krzeszowski, a photographer of the urban landscape of Wrocław.

An enthusiast of travelling and Lower Silesia. photo: Jarek Curuś

I'm Wrocław-based by choice, but I've grown into this city for over 10 years very deeply. Here I met my wife. For many years I have been doing my work here, which is my passion at the same time. Because of my profession (I am a journalist) and my current love to photography, I think I know Wrocław very well. Sometimes I laugh, that I know every hole in the road , but also a lot of amazing stories of people associated with this city. I was here at the moments that were important to Wrocław. I value the openness of people in the capital of Lower Silesia, the climate of the city, the respect of residents to over a thousand-year, quite complicated history. I appreciate the opportunities that it gives, and of course my beloved mountains that are often seen in the distance on the horizon so I can reach them quickly. In general, I think that all of Lower Silesia is beautiful and I am happy that I can live here. I also like the fact that it is quite close from here to our Czech neighbours and the picturesque corners of Germany. It gives a sense of connection with Europe's heritage.

Wrocław is slowly becoming one of the most recognisable cities in Poland among foreign tourists. What do you think – what does this phenomenon result from?

It's true that sometimes when I go through the centre in the season, it's hard to hear Polish. We are visited by many Germans, Spaniards, Italians, Englishmen, but also Americans, Japanese, and Scandinavians. This is mainly due to the climate created by residents, traces of history, architecture and major events that in recent years were organised in Wrocław (Euro 2012, ECC 2016, The World Games 2017). Everyone here comes from somewhere else, after the war; practically 100% of the population of the city has been exchanged. Nobody feels better, everyone tries to help. For example, when at the beginning I was looking for a way to the airport and asked a young boy

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on the street for the directions, when he only noticed that I got lost quickly in his directions, he got in my car and went there with me, even then he had to return to the centre by bus for 40 minutes. Wrocław is also a student city, and young people give a lot of freshness, they get a lot of fun and they pass it on other people.

The city authorities also do a lot so that everyone feels good here. The city is developing at a really European pace and I am proud of it. Wrocław was the organizer of huge events in the world of sport, culture, politics and business in recent years. I am happy to remember the moments when the city was flooded by dancing fans of Euro 2012 or when the inhabitants were walking in colourful, artistic processions for the opening of the European Capital of Culture 2016. An amazing event, where I could admire a true passion for sports was also a tournament of non-Olympic sports – the World Games 2017. His Holiness the Dalai Lama comes back with joy here , the stars of film including Pedro Almodóvar, Steven Spielberg, or Tom Hanks are used to visiting the town as well.

We would like you to show us around your favourite places in Wrocław – just like you show around your favourite guests. Where would you take us? Probably to the centre, to Ostrów Tumski?

The historic centre and Ostrów Tumski of course have to be seen, because it is the heart of Wroclaw but I also have a few less obvious proposals. Due to the fact that I am still looking for some shots in the city, I like to watch Wroclaw from some height, so I would definitely take you to some vantage point. The highest is the one on Sky Tower, phenomenal, especially at sunset and dusk, you get the view of the whole city and sometimes even Mount Śnieżka, which is more than 100km away from Wrocław.

WROCŁAW GET TO KNOW THE SITES PHOTOGRAPHY BY JANUSZ KRZESZOWSKI

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The Old Town is best viewed from Mostek Pokutnic, which is a footbridge connecting the towers of St. Mary Magdalene. Let's get back to the ground, and certainly we would visit the place around the Centennial Hall inscribed on the UNESCO heritage list and the neighbouring Szczytnicki Park. Old Jewish Cemetery at ul. Ślężna is extremely stirring. Wrocław is called the city of "one hundred bridges", so it is worth going through several of them while walking down renovated Wrocław boulevards. It is also worth seeing the city from the Odra level and take a cruise by boat or canoe. If you want to get to know the climate of the market, you have to go to the historic Market Hall at ul. Piaskowa. A wonderful place, immersed in greenery is the Japanese Garden and the Botanical Garden. Racławice Panorama is of course the classic attraction, but an ivycovered building of the National Museum is wonderful itself, especially in autumn while naturally it is still worth to see the exhibits inside. Openness and history, which I mentioned, can be found in the District of Four Temples, there is, among others, synagogue under the White Stork but also sacred monuments of other religions. Visitors from all over Poland come to our Africarium in the ZOO. There are also interesting museums, rich in multimedia and great exhibitions, such as the City Arsenal, Museum at the Royal Palace, Museum of Architecture, Hydropolis, Theatre Museum, Museum of ‘Pan Tadeusz', Four Domes Pavilion, Ossolineum. There is a lot of it.

You take photos of famous places in Wrocław, places that have already been photographed by many others. What do you look for in these photographs? What do you want to convey? Do you think that the subject/ place can be captured in such a way that it would arouse interest or admiration – even if it is already well known?

This is the whole difficulty in the photography of Wrocław, to show the city as nobody else has shown it before although more and more people deal with it every year.

I look for an interesting perspective; I wait for the right moment, the mood, the moment. In photography I also use the most beautiful moments during the day, i.e. sunrises and sunsets. I look for inaccessible places which are seldom visited by other photographers to show them in a unique light. I take photos from land, water, and sometimes it happened that I would take them from the air, but not with the help of a drone, but flying on a moto-paraglider. With this „appeal" it is usually like with popular and niche music.

Similarly in Wrocław, there are well-known and admired places, the photographs of which almost always evoke

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great admiration, including the Market Square , Ostrów Tumski, Rędziński Bridge, Wrocław central railway station and I like them too as they are really eye-catching. I usually try to show them in a different way. However, in my portfolio I value the most the photos of this niche, mysterious, rarely captured places, such as the Jewish cemetery at sunrise, or the roof of some high building, from which I have never seen a photo yet, and from which you get an amazing view of the city.

How do you approach the photographed topic, what do you look for in old Wrocław buildings, is there anything specific that you would like to convey to your viewer or tell a story?

First of all, I look for joy from the shooting itself. On the other hand, I want to show the viewers the beauty of Wrocław at the unique times when they often sleep (laughs). After all, not everyone gets up in the morning to watch the city before sunrise, when there are almost no people or cars, when silence speaks to us and when the colours are more expressive. I watch about one hundred of sunrises a year, and the number of the sunsets is even bigger. Most of people rush through their lives and they hardly ever stop to celebrate such moments. That's what I want to show to my audience. In the tenements I look for traces of history, beautiful forms, e.g. stairs. I also look for roofs from which I could view the city. I do not feel much like an artist, more like a craftsman, so I do not make up any high-definition ideas for my photos. My viewers themselves interpret the images I show to them. Some are more stirring, have a special atmosphere, show the history of the place, and others are just pleasant, because the city is shown in them in a spectacular way, that the viewers have not seen before.

What motivates you to work on photos?

Photography is my hobby. If it brings money, I treat it as an addition and contribution to a bottomless money box which is photographic equipment. I am motivated by people who watch and comment on my photographs. My wife motivates me as well; she always supports me in the realisation of my passions. I am also motivating myself to get up at 3am and go to take some photos as nature may prepare an unforgettable spectacle. Dozens of times, unfortunately, nothing unique happens, but it also drives me to the next trials and excursions. I am driven by little successes, publications, finding new places. I am motivated by the participants of my photographic workshops who want to learn from me. There are also nice messages and interesting conversation, such as the one that I got from you.

WROCŁAW GET TO KNOW THE SITES PHOTOGRAPHY BY JANUSZ KRZESZOWSKI

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY JANUSZ KRZESZOWSKI

the bridges According to data from before World War II, Wrocław had 303 bridges; today there are 100 bridges and 33 gangways. Unique on a Polish and European scale, the number of crossings is due to the location of the city.

Wrocław is crossed by the rivers of Oder, Ślęza, Widawa, Bystrzyca, Dobra and a dozen or so streams.

Depending on the water level there are up to 25 islands in the city boundaries. The Grunwald Bridge is the most famous bridge in Wrocław. It was constructed in years 1908-1910 according to a design

by Richard Plüddemann, the then city planner in Wrocław.

During its construction new technology was employed – the span is attached with steel straps to 20-metre brick pylons standing at the river banks. source: www.wroclaw.pl

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WROCŁAW GET TO KNOW THE SITES PHOTOGRAPHY BY JANUSZ KRZESZOWSKI

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Wrocław

JANUSZ KRZESZOWSKI www.facebook.com/JanuszKrzeszowskiFotografia www.500px.com/januszkrzeszowski

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TOP 6 IN WROCŁAW 01

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Aula Leopoldinum the most representative part of the University. Aula still gathers the academics on the important occasions and events in the life of the University. The interior is divided into three parts: podium, auditorium and musical matroneum. Aula, known for the wonderful acoustics, gathers the academics on the important events in the University.

Ostrów Tumski surrounded by the river Oder, the old burgh, the origin of the city, has fantastic architecture. The greatest ones are the Gothic St. John Baptist cathedral, and Holy Cross church.

There is the Archdiocese Museum there, the oldest historically continuous museum in Wrocław – for over 100 years it has gathered sacral art. Among the exhibits one can find Henrykowska Book from which contains the first sentence written in Polish.

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Old Town Hall is a unique Gothic building in European architecture. It has 2 storeys, 3 parts with a rectangular building of the councils, which is attached to the northern wall and a square tower. Located in the city centre, it was being built for about 250 years (13-16th century). It used to serve as the seat of the city authorities and the court.

Hochberg's Chapel near the Greek Catholic church at Nankiera Square was built in the years 1723-1728. It is a marvel of Baroque architecture and adornment.

The Chapel (Kaplica Hochberga) was designed by Count Ferdinand Hochberg, an abbot of the Premonstratensians.

He invited the best Silesian artists to work on it. They adorned the ceiling with frescoes presenting Seven Sorrows of Mary – from Jesus' childhood till the Passion.

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The Market Hall was built in 1905-1908 in the place of the 16th century Arsenal.

Today, on two floors there are over 190 shops. It is not only a shopping centre, but also a tourist attraction. The building in ul. Piaskowa has four floors, apart from the main hall with stalls and the gallery, there are two large cellars. In the cellar in ul. Piaskowa, under the clock tower, there is a restaurant.

Jatki (The Shambles) Galerie na Jatkach are on the tourist map of Wrocław and the statues of a goat, pig, rooster, goose with an egg and a rabbit attract the tourists, who pet them and make photos with them.

The intentions of the authors are written on the sign: In honour of Animals for Slaughter – the Consumers. Since the Middle Ages the Shambles were a place for the butcheries and butchers’ shops.

Wrocław The city was first recorded in the 10th century as Vratislavia, the Bohemian duke Vratislaus I founded here a Bohemian stronghold. Vratislavia was possibly derived from the duke's name Vratislav. In 985, Duke Mieszko I of Poland conquered Silesia including Wrocław. The town was mentioned explicitly in the year 1000 AD in connection with a founding of a bishopric during the Congress of Gniezno.

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Panorama of Wrocław at night – view of Ostrów Tumski Ostrów Tumski "Cathedral Island" is the oldest part of the city of Wrocław. Archaeological excavations have shown that the western part of Ostrów Tumski, between the Church of St. Martin and the Holy Cross, was the first area to be inhabited. The first, wooden church (St. Martin), dating from the 10th century, was surrounded by defensive walls built on the banks of the river. The island had approximately 1,500 inhabitants at that time.

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PANORAMA OF THE BATTLE OF RACŁAWICE source: visitwroclaw.eu

The painting present the Battle of Racławice in April 1794, in which Poles won over Russians. The monumental picture is 114m long and 15m high and was painted on the 100th anniversary of the victory. It was the idea of Jan Styka, a painter from Lvov, who invited among others Wojciech Kossak, Tadeusz Popiel, Teodor Axentowicz, Włodzimierz Tetmajer to work on the painting.

The work took 9 months to finish. A rotunda with Panorama of the Battle of Racławice (Panorama Racławicka), built in Stryjeński Park, became one of the attractions of Lvov. The technology applied by the authors can be compared to the contemporary 3D technology. Special, panoramic perspective, lighting and scenography constructed in front of the picture make it look multidimensional.

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After World War II the Panorama of the Battle of Racławice came to Wrocław. For many years it was hidden in storeroom, mainly for political reasons - it shows the victory of Poles against Russians, and back then Poland was under the Soviet Union's influence.

Not until 1980 the works on the new rotunda started, the painting could be seen after 1985. Among the visitors were the Pope John Paul II and the Queen of the Netherlands, Beatrix. In 1987 the prime minister of China Zhao Ziyang was impressed by Panorama of the Battle of Racławice. Two years later, the first Chinese panorama was created, even bigger than the one in Wrocław. It presents the victory of the communists over the army of Kuomitang in 1948. Panorama became a popular tool of promotion of the most important events in the history of communist China. In the next years, over ten panoramas were created. During the visit, the viewers can listen to the history of the painting and the events presented in 16 languages (including Korean, Japanese, Croatian and Esperanto). For blind people there is an audio description available.

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DRAWING WROCŁAW KLAUDIUSZ PUPIEC ONE MINUTE INTERVIEW I am a student of architecture at the Wrocław University of Technology, I come from Padua of north - that is Zamość. On a daily basis I do projects, solve tasks, run but in addition I do what I enjoy the most: sketching.

Why am I doing this? Because I love it, drawing is associated with relaxation to me, similar to watching a movie. I started drawing in the second grade of high school and to show my works only at the beginning of my studies and that even more began to drive me to work harder.

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Wrocław ?

ELPOEP

I try to stick to one topic in my sketches, ie tenements, Renaissance or even Gothic buildings, but sometimes I also draw interiors. If I want to go and draw a beautiful building, I do not have to go anywhere; Wroclaw has enough of such places.

The city that changed hands many times has a diverse architecture, and it contains itself many contrasts which make it one of the most beautiful cities in western Poland.

Wrocław is a city planned from the very beginning, thanks to which it has beautiful nooks and crannies that are worth discovering.

My favourite place in Wroclaw is Ostrów Tumski, which has been preserved in perfect condition to this day, but it is not the only place like that. Going through the Market, we see beautifully decorated tenement houses like NOT or long rows of churches, one by one, so walking with a sketchbook it is really difficult to make a choice.

People often ask me "Do you really feel like drawing so much?" Of course! People abroad do the same by showing their cities through drawing; I want to do the same, promote Wrocław and, consequently, Poland through sketches, showing that my country is not just the PRL and the Palace of Culture. My creative works can be found on Facebook and Instagram where I run a kind of a blog - feel free to visit me there! www.facebook.com/KlaudiuszPupiec

POLAND FROM

ABOVE

KOŚCIUSZKO MOUND IN KRAKÓW KOŚCIUSZKO MOUND COMMITTEE PHOTOS: DRONE QUEST

Kościuszko Mound is a unique destination on the tourism map of Kraków and Małopolska. From its summit stretches the most beautiful view of the surroundings, while at the Mound you can take part in fascinating history lessons and see interesting exhibits. Are you planning to visit Kraków?

Then Kościuszko Mound is a must-see!

Are you looking for amazing views? From Kościuszko Mound you can see one of the most beautiful panoramas of Kraków, with views of the most characteristic places in the old city – Wawel Castle, St. |Mary’s Basilica, the Sukiennice, and the Main Square. The Mound provides a view of the entire Kraków Upland, the Sandomierz Basin, the Wieliczka Foothills, and with good visibility even the Tatra Mountains!

TOURIST INFO CENTRE

The Mound is also a place where you can learn about the history of the Polish road to freedom, see memorials to outstanding Poles, and also a historic 19th century fort. For military architecture buffs, a visit to the Mound is also an opportunity to visit a unique citadel fort with defensive functions. The Kościuszko Fort 2 surrounding the Mound is one of the oldest surviving elements of the Kraków Fortress.

The historic interior of the fort hosts numerous temporary exhibitions. Here you can discover the history of Tadeusz Kościuszko, get to know the secrets of the Kraków Fortress, and stand for a moment “face-to-face” with outstanding Poles by visiting the wax figure exhibit.

Before entry to Kościuszki Mound, you’ will need to buy a ticket which entitles you to visit not only the Mound itself, but also all of the temporary exhibitions at the fort.

By buying a ticket, you support the operations of the Mound – all revenue from ticket sales is dedicated to maintenance of the Mound and support for the heritage of Kościuszko traditions.

Kościuszko Mound Committee al. Waszyngtona 1 Kopiec Kościuszki 30-204 Kraków Tel/fax: 012 425-11-16 www. http://kopieckosciuszki.pl/en/ info@kopieckosciuszki.pl

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KOŚCIUSZKO MOUND IN KRAKÓW

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PHOTOS: DRONE QUEST The DRONE QUEST project was created from the common passion of two people for flying, filming and photography. Officially, we are operators of unmanned aerial vehicles, which are primarily a tool for us to show the surrounding reality from the perspective usually inaccessible to human eyes - the perspective of a bird'seye view. We also deal with traditional landscape and nature photography as well as film editing. We have created, among other things, a series of popular videos on Youtube.com showing the wildlife of the Low Beskids, or Nowa Huta in Kraków, in a drone’s eye. We were nominated in the international Drone Film Festival 2017 competition. We constantly experiment and implement new ideas, setting the bar higher and higher. see more WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/DRONE.QUEST

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Bolesławiec Bolesławiec pottery can be found on the tables of the lovers of manually manufactured vessels all over the world. The traditional technology, unique forms, and, most of all, exceptional design patterns have made our products extremely popular for many years.

Fot. Mariusz Cieszewski Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Republic of Poland

BOLESŁAWIEC history Bolesławiec pottery can be found on the tables of the lovers of manually manufactured vessels all over the world. The traditional technology, unique forms, and, most of all, exceptional design patterns have made our products extremely popular for many years.

For centuries one of the premier art forms in Central Europe has been the pottery and ceramics created in the Silesia region of Poland. The durable and functional creamy white and blue stoneware pieces are unique and easily identifiable. Ceramics and pottery are a definitive part of the identity of the city of Bolesławiec, Poland.

The town itself is often called Miasto Ceramiki (Town of ceramics). It is impossible to talk about the town without talking about the ceramics that have been produced there for over a thousand years. It is a matter of great pride to the inhabitants.

Ceramic art has long been intertwined with Bolesławiec, a town located in Silesia, a historically disputed region of Europe. The ceramics works are referred to as Bolesławiec pottery, or they are sometimes called by their German name: Bunzlau pottery or Bunzlauer pottery. There has recently been a resurgence in the popularity of Bolesławiec ceramic art in the United States.

The geography lends itself to ceramic work as the area is rich in natural clay deposits; the clay is still excavated today.

The clay is plentiful and of extremely high quality. It has a high feldspar and silicon content, and is classified as stoneware after firing. It is fired at extremely high temperatures, around 1100-1300 degrees Celsius. The clay is brown to grey in colour, and rough in texture compared to finer clay-bodies such as porcelain. Stoneware is sturdy and vitreous to semi-vitreous and porous when fired. Glaze can be applied and the piece can be re-fired to create a watertight surface. There is also a unique clay slip associated with the Bolesławiec supply base, the application of which results in a glossy, brown surface. Ceramics has been a part of Bolesławiec and the entire region’s history for an extremely long time. Potters and ceramic artists are on record from as early as the 14th century, with the first written record of a potter in the municipal books of Świdnica in 1380. However, archaeological digs have shown pottery and ceramics from the early Middle Ages, and trading patterns strongly indicate their presence at such an early time.

Potters from the Bolesławiec area first united into a guild around the start of the 17th century. Most of the earliest remaining pieces date from the beginnings of the eighteenth century. They are characterised by the brown glaze and were usually pitchers or jug type vessels. Some of the vessels are lidded forms with attached tin lids, though many are open. They are wheel made and uniform in shape, and were either smooth or bore a diagonal ridge pattern. Most bear a mark of some kind, usually an individual’s initials and a date.

The traditions of 'Bunzlauer' pottery have been preserved in many locations in present-day Germany by expellees from the former town of Bunzlau and their descendants. Currently, most of the original pottery that comes from Polish Bolesławiec is produced by the CPLiA cooperative and the many artists that work under it, either in factories or smaller studios. Many of the individual artists do their own work, and there is also a large crafts movement that still produces the traditional heavy brown and white stoneware.

All authentic Bolesławiec pottery has the “Hand made in Poland” stamped on the bottom. The Boleslawiec pottery that is most recognisable today is the white or cream coloured ceramic with dark blue, green, yellow, brown and sometimes red or purple motifs. The most common designs include dots, abstract florals, speckles, “windmills”, and the favourite “peacocks eye”.

Although Bolesławiec pottery has become more popular in the United States in the past few years, it is still largely a regional product and is known primarily in Germany and Eastern Europe. It is collected by private collectors all across the world, and is also part of many museum collections in Europe, the largest collection being in the Museum of Ceramics in Bolesławiec.

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However, with the commercialisation of the industry, Polish Pottery ceramics are now sold throughout the world for everyday use in the kitchen as well as collectibles.

Polish Pottery is hand crafted with pride at many small manufacturing companies in Bolesławiec. All of the pieces are hand painted, using sponge stamp and brushes to paint the art on each piece. All of the patterns are hand-cut by the artists in the sponge and then they use the sponges and brushes to apply the unique pattern to each piece. Sponges are used because they keep the paint wet for a long time, allowing the artist to slowly go around one piece at a time, stamping a unique specific pattern. In 1897 a professional ceramics school was founded in Bolesławiec. The school's first headmaster was a renowned ceramics master from Berlin, Dr. Wilhelm Pukall. He initiated changes that helped reform technical abilities and new work methods, but also supported innovative new ideas and forms of creative expression. It was a time of great growth for Bolesławiec ceramics. The school accepted mostly sons of local potters, and after their completion went on to start their own workshops.

Three important potters that worked around the turn of the century were Julius Paul, Hugo Reinhold and Carl Werner. They helped to realise the new ideas and vision of the school. These three artists and their studios started using stencilling techniques, matte glazes, vibrant colours, and gilding. It was their new techniques that revolutionised modern Bolesławiec pottery. In 1936 the school established a cooperative of six schools called the “Bunzlauer Braunzeug”. Their work can still be found today marked by brown pots with white decorations and signed on the bottom. Although most of Lower Silesia's ceramic workshops and studios were destroyed during World War II, and the entire German population of the town and surrounding province were removed during the transfer of the territory from Germany to Poland in 1945, the new Polish authorities and refugees made a huge effort to revive the work. The cooperative CPLiA was formed and supported by the state-run Eugeniusz Geppert Academy of Fine Arts in Wrocław.

This permitted the cooperative to revive a high standard of artistic achievement and enabled funding and the influence of talented potters in Poland and Europe.

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SACRED PLACES OF POLAND

St. Anne Mount

BY BŁAŻEJ DUK

Góra Świętej Anny or St. Anne Mount (German: St. Annaberg) is an inselberg in Upper Silesia, Poland, next to the community of the same name. It is the location of the Franciscan monastery with the miraculous statue of St. Anne and the imposing calvary, which is an important destination for Roman Catholic pilgrimage.

The Composed Cultural and Natural Landscape of Góra Świętej Anny was announced one of Poland's official Historic Monuments by the National Heritage Board of Poland and the President of Poland.

Author Błażej Duk Author about the project: The project was created out of passion, with the desire to share the beauty of the surrounding St. Anne’s land. The place is known not only because of its exceptionally captivating nature, but also as a place of worship and pilgrimages of over 300,000 people a year.

Through this project, I want to bring closer some of the places that are worth seeing and enjoying.

On the www.goraswanny.pl website you will find numerous photographs as well as information about the most important objects located in the Park as well as the unique places and customs that take place here.

SEE MORE AT:

www.facebook.com/goraswanny www.goraswanny.pl 38 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

the sanctuary

THERE IS SOMETHING GREAT IN BRAVING THE UNKNOWN. www.facebook.com/goraswanny www.goraswanny.pl

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saint Anne Sanctuary

THERE IS SOMETHING GREAT IN BRAVING THE UNKNOWN. www.facebook.com/goraswanny www.goraswanny.pl

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SAINT ANNE’S SANCTUARY The church was erected (around 1485-1516) from the foundation of Mikołaj and Krzysztof Strzała. Mentioned in the letter of a bishop John of Turzo in 1516. Expanded after 1656 from the foundation of Count Melchior Ferdinand de Gaschin.

Saint Anne's Sanctuary was rebuilt in 1781 by the construction master Krzyszof Worbs.

In 1853 it was renovated, in 1868 towers were erected. Thoroughly restored in the years 1958-1960 under the guardian father Bertold Altaner.

Written by BŁAŻEJ DUK. Photo by BŁAŻEJ DUK

The church's decor is in Gothic-Baroque style, oriented. It is made of broken stone, plastered. Under the presbytery there is a two-part burial crypt. The presbytery is closed from three sides, with a new chapel of Our Lady of Częstochowa from the south and a sacristy from the south in the monastery rooms. A wider, three-span nave on the plan of a quadrilateral, tapering from the west with an axis deviated from the presbytery. The presbytery has a cross-arch vault. In the nave a barrel vault with lunettes. The walls in the presbytery were dismembered with pilasters, in the aisle with wall pillars bearing the breaking of the entablature. The rainbow is closed semi-circularly. Musical choir made of brick, hung on a wide arcade. Outside, the church was plastered. The saddle roofs, above the chapel – a desktop roof, covered with copper sheet. Above the nave, we can see a turret of a baroque shape and a tower from 1868. On the eastern side of the church, a small chapel of St. Anne from 1804 built by the guardian, father Hilaryon Tutejski, with a copy of a figurine of Saint Anne with the Virgin and Child from 1770.

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the cherry alley

THERE IS SOMETHING GREAT IN BRAVING THE UNKNOWN. www.facebook.com/goraswanny www.goraswanny.pl

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THE CHERRY ALLEY Cherry alley – is an extraordinary place in the St. Anne Mount Landscape Park which for just two weeks becomes a real gem among other tourist attractions in the Park. The blooming cherry alleys are visible from afar and many of the visitors stop impressed for a few minutes to capture the spring phenomenon in their photographs.

Written by BŁAŻEJ DUK. Photo by BŁAŻEJ DUK

This place may attract such attention because the cherry trees that bloom mostly in the middle of April, grow next to the main poviat roads leading to the magical part of the Opole region - St. Anne Mount . The struggle for the survival of these species of cherries was begun by the association "Kraina Św. Anny "and the Silesian Botanical Garden in Mikołów.

First, an inventory of the stand was made and the trees were subjected to genetic analysis in order to obtain new seedlings that are cultivated in the Silesian Botanical Garden. Most of the photographers are attracted by a cherry alley growing near the poviat road between Leśnica and St. Anne Mount. This avenue consists of almost 150 trees, the average age of which is about 58 years and the length of the alley does not exceed 2 km. The avenue is located on a slight hill and it is especially attractive when it is illuminated by the rays of the setting sun. During the flowering season, you can meet many people photographing the "white land" there. The next two cherry alleys are located between Wysoka - Ligota Górna, consisting of 19 trees with an average age of 82 years and between Ligota Górna and Ligota Dolna. The latter counts almost 150 trees and is about 3 km long. There is another cherry-tree alley located in the St. Anne Mount Landscape Park which, unfortunately, becomes forgotten. It is now a thinning cherry alley between Zalesie Śląskie and Czarnocin where in 2016 15 trees still grew. This is an extremely picturesque area, which I still remember from my childhood.

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my Silesian Tuscany

THERE IS SOMETHING GREAT IN BRAVING THE UNKNOWN. www.facebook.com/goraswanny www.goraswanny.pl

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MY SILESIAN TUSCANY – ON THE GREEN WAVES IN ZALESIE ŚLĄSKIE Picturesque and exceptionally shaped terrains are located in the town of Czarnocin in the Leśnica commune; they are called "Silesian Switzerland". However, this note is not to be devoted to "Silesian Switzerland". For several years, I have been inspired and delighted by quite large areas located in Zalesie Śląskie. The most impressing is the exceptionally shaped area in Zalesie Śląskie near the Popice estate. It is visible to those traveling on the regional road No. 426 towards the A4 motorway and Strzelce Opolskie.

Silesian Tuscany – this is what I call these exceptional areas in Zalesie Śląskie.

Written by BŁAŻEJ DUK. Photo by BŁAŻEJ DUk

However, my favourite area for shooting especially in early spring is the one of beautifully wavy green fields. They are located to the east of the village bordered by the villages of Klucz, Zimna Wódka and Kopanina. It is a several hundred hectare area, beautifully composed with mid-field trees and gently undulating terrain. This is my Silesian Tuscany – an extremely beautiful area for photographing. This area is not located in the Landscape Park of St. Anne Mount, but it is located in the Natura 2000 protected area and adjoins the park boundaries. It is my favourite subject to shoot especially in spring because at that time only juicy green sprouts of cereal grow in the area. Secondly, in the early spring, as a result of large temperature changes during the day, we have to deal with numerous types of clouds, which only in some places let the sun rays go through which often gives beautiful effects. This area becomes an extraordinary place also when large expanses of golden rapeseed start to bloom.

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the Corpus Christi

THERE IS SOMETHING GREAT IN BRAVING THE UNKNOWN. www.facebook.com/goraswanny www.goraswanny.pl

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THE ENDING OF THE CORPUS CHRISTI OCTAVE IN ZALESIE ŚLĄSKIE

In the village of Zalesie Śląskie the tradition of the Corpus Christi Octave ending, which falls on the Thursday following after the Corpus Christi Day is beautifully celebrated.

Written by BŁAŻEJ DUK. Photo by BŁAŻEJ DUK

Inhabitants of Zalesie Śląskie, Lichynia and Czarnocin gather at the cross among fields on the so-called mountains or between Zalesie Śląskie and Czarnocin). There is a beautiful view from here. During the service, the priest hallows herbs and flowers.

The Proksza family from Zalesie Śląskie takes care of the cross and the place around the cross, and the tradition of celebrating Holy Mass itself here started in 1995. It was established on the initiative of the parish priest of that time, Father Czesław Gaca, who wanted a newly set cross to mark the line towards St. Anne Mount, looking from the side of the cross standing near the provincial road next to Popice housing estate.

The wooden cross which was set up in 1995 stood here until 2009. In the same year, a new iron cross was set up, which was funded by the mayor of Leśnica Hubert Kurzała.

Hubert Kurzała died in July 2009. The dedication of the new cross took place on November 22, 2009.

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rock amphitheatre

THERE IS SOMETHING GREAT IN BRAVING THE UNKNOWN. www.facebook.com/goraswanny www.goraswanny.pl

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ROCK AMPHITHEATRE When St. Anne Mount was still in the hands of the Third Reich, more specifically – in the 1930s, the Nazis wanted to create a huge rock amphitheatre there. It was supposed to be a place where big political rallies could take place, as well as a mausoleum to commemorate the German soldiers who died in war. And so they did as they planned and in the place of the former quarry in 1938 the construction of the rock amphitheatre was completed.

Written by BŁAŻEJ DUK. Photo by BŁAŻEJ DUK

There were rumours that there were explosive materials in the drainage pipes that flowed out due to the great downpour on the eve of the opening of the rock amphitheatre. People suspected of preparing this attack (50 people) were thrown from the slope. During the war, the rock amphitheatre with the platform and the flag pedestal under the escarpment served the NSDAP as a place to organise huge rallies and worship of the German soldiers who died in war, to whom the mausoleum on the top of the escarpment – above the amphitheatre – was dedicated.

An interesting fact is that in the escarpment below the monument, and also under the amphitheatre, there is a whole complex of underground corridors. Apparently, the tunnels extend from the church to the dungeons of the castle in Żyrowa. Unfortunately, they are unsecured and therefore they are not intended for sightseeing. These labyrinths, which were created to dewater the object, are inhabited by bats today. When St. Anne Mount passed into Polish hands, the object became a place of celebrations connected with cultivating the Polish identity of Upper Silesia. After the overthrow of communism, there were even organised ceremonies being the gestures of reconciliation on the part of the German minority.

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ROYAL BATHS WARSAW The author of this article is a licensed tour guide living in Warsaw. History enthusiast and genealogy researcher who loves to share his knowledge and passion. Always searching for those 'fun facts' that can make even the most boring story entertaining.

"Little threads of history are everywhere you go, all you need to do is to catch them and weave them together. When you embroider it with fun facts history will never be like a school book anymore."

Contact with the author:

irek@warsawcityguide.pl, web: warsawcityguide.pl, FB: facebook.com/yourwarsawguide tel: +48 533 498 851

Warsaw tour guide irek@warsawcityguide.pl Irek Szajba

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In the previous issue of our Magazine you could find the brief introduction to Royal Baths in Warsaw. Let us invite to a journey into the largest park of Polish capital city in Poland, will take you back to the 18th century, let me take you for a walk then.

In 1764, when Stanislav II August was elected the king of Poland, architecture of Europe was still dominated by baroque. The king purchased Ujazdowski Castle, just outside of Warsaw back then, and ordered to turn it into his summer residence.

The surrounding area consisted of a large natural park with two interesting buildings. One of them was an ermitage, in which a previous landlord, S. H. Lubomirski, used to hide away from his daily duties. Another building was a bathing pavilion in the middle of the park, where Lubomirski, who valued his privacy, would take his baths.

King Stanislavus II Augustus decided to turn the castle into a high-baroque royal residence. Without a doubt the king was a talented man, which made his court architect's work difficult, as the king would have many suggestions towards reconstruction of the castle. When the royal residence was ready, a new era came to architecture of Europe. Baroque was not trendy anymore. To make it even more complicated, king's court architect, Jacob Fontana, died in 1773. His assistant and cousin Domenico Merlini took over and prepared to construct a modern neo-classical palace for his majesty. King's choice was rather unique as he decided another reconstruction, this time it was the bathing pavilion of the previous owner.

The building was located in the middle of the sentimental park, alluding to current trends of a neo-classical era.

Domenico Merlini, who was one of Italian "comacini", was a genius by nature. He had a task of coming up with something completely new. The first structure in the complex was the Little White House, where the king would stay while overseeing completion of his palace, royal guard houses, theatres, stables, and so on. The Little White House was probably supposed to be only a temporary building, yet we can still see it while strolling down the main alley. On the opposite side of this alley we can find a round building which was made of brick in 1777, when the area was being turned over. It served as a water tower, supplying the surrounding buildings and fountains with water collected from the ground watercourses using a system of wooden pipes. It was playing a similar role to the King's Alfred's Tower in the UK.

There is another building nearby which is hard to miss, the Old Orangerie. One of few original buildings of this kind remaining in Europe. The role of this building was to keep exotic fruit trees safe over winter. The building was heated and plants which did not naturally grow in a Polish climate, would make it through the heavy winter. In the spring time, when it got warm enough to take those orange, lemon and fig trees outside the building of Old Orangerie would turn into the theatre. This kind of court theatres, serving as

glasshouses in winter, were very common in the 18th century. In the distance, between trees, we will find a structure which would seem not to belong here.

A Chinese Bower is another reminder of circumstances in which culture of Europe was developing in late 1700s.

When diplomatic relations with China were established the cultural exchange commenced. All riches of Europe craved for items from Far East, especially artefacts of ancient China were in price. The influence of Chinese traditional art was called in French the chinoiserie. It would appear in palaces of nobels, who were creating whole rooms decorated with traditional Chinese decorations, furniture or personal items. Gentle touch of Chinese architecture glimmering with its' golden decorations and lanterns found its' place in the sentimental park of Royal Baths.

Walking down the alley we finally discover the former bathing pavilion of S. H. Lubomirski. The main building of the estate, Palace on the Isle. While Domenico Merlini was rearranging the building, he kept four of the original chambers of bathing pavilion, constructing an entire palace around it. New royal residence had a modern character of a new neo-classical era. Merlini had a chance to create his own style as the trend was quite new. As in France, we would see Empire style at the end of Roccoco, England would switch to new Palladian style, in Poland it would develop into Stanislavian Classicism as the king was the main populariser of the style. Domenico Merlini introduced few features while designing the palace.

Typical for his style, column guardrails appeared on the top of cornices. The concaved portico was antecedent with columns that were combined with the surface of the facade. Interiors were decorated with paintings and sculptures corresponding to ancient Greece and Rome.

The palace is situated in the middle of an artificial lake, which was dug up by hands of hundreds of workers, hence the name of the Palace on the Isle, the result of creation of a hand man isle. Soon after finishing Royal Baths, crown architect Domenico Merlini dies, king abdicates and his kingdom is partitioned between Russia, Prussia and Austria. Warsaw is controlled by Russian Emperors for over hundred years and Royal Baths become a home for their family. Next building, which used to be an estate's kitchen became the Officers' School in 1816. This is where the national uprising begun in 1830.

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ROYAL BATHS WARSAW

ARTWORK BY DANUTA RYDYGIER, SIZE: 30 X 24CM, WATERCOLOR

An original painting. This artwork will go on auction to support our Magazine.

DANUTA RYDYGIER A Warsaw painter, Graduate of the Academy of Fine Arts in Gdańsk 52 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Young students of this school, led by Józef Wysocki, stormed nearby residence of Russian governor Konstanty Romanov on 29th of November that year.

Emperor's brother managed to escape alive being dressed in his wife's dress. When insurgents took control of an arsenal in central Warsaw, the uprising broke countrywide, but it all started here, in this very building. Next to it, there is a Myślewicki Palace, the last building constructed by Merlini in this complex.

This is where Charles de Gaulle was put up when visiting Poland after the end of WWII. Nobody would guess how tall he was and he spent the first night of his visit in the bed that was way too small for him, with his feet stretching out of the bed. As he complained, on the following day he was given a new bed that was big enough. In this building, USA and China held secret negotiations, as these countries did not have any official diplomatic relations in 1958, their ambassadors held negotiations in Myślewicki Palace for twelve years. In the meantime, USA made a first step towards building an international relations with Peoples Republic of China, by sending their table tennis representation to Beijing. You might remember this episode from Forest Gump, even though he was a fictional character, this visit was a result of those secret meetings.

The main outcome of this dialogue was a visit of president Nixon to China back in 1972. For those twelve years the building was under constant surveillance of a nearby Russian Embassy. Walking around the lake we will find another theatre. It is rather special design by Merlini, while the audience is shaped as an amphitheatre, the stage opposite is placed on yet another isle. It was designed to separate the stage from the audience with a narrow channel which was used by actors arriving to the stage on little boats. They would hold paper lanterns, sing and act before the play even started. The stage is decorated with broken columns giving the dramatic atmosphere of Forum Romanum, according to trends of sentimental English style gardens of the end of 18th century. To make the most of your visit to Royal Baths Park, we suggest to plan it on a sunny day.

It would be also recommended to hire a licensed guide who will explain the history of the estate, guide you through interiors of the palace and show you remaining buildings in the park, which we did not describe in this article.

There is a funny story behind a New Orangery, peacocks posing to photos or friendly squirrel making a fun company if you only bring some nuts with you to feed them. If you happen to plan your visit on a Sunday in the summer time you might want to find a monument of Frideric Chopin. It is a real treat to lovers of classical music, as at midday and five o'clock you can listen to live music played as a part of a Chopin's Piano Tournament. We hope we did encourage you to pay a visit to Royal Baths of Warsaw, one of former royal residences in Poland, signature of a genius Domenico Merlini and a house to hundreds of lovely squirrels.

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MACRO WILDERNESS EXPLORER AN INTERVIEW WITH PAWEŁ PLUCIŃSKI

Our world is inhabited by over a million known species of insects. Many of these little creatures can be found just at the doorstep of our homes. Photographing insects and other small creatures can be fun. Just go to the garden to find the whole new world of macro photography objects. Paweł, what prompted you to address this topic?

I've been interested in photography for about 3 years.

From an early age I was curious about various insects, I watched their behaviour and they became an inspiration for me. I am fascinated by their incredible structure, texture, shape and colours. It is a world that I discover anew every time I photograph. Although apart from them, I also photograph landscapes and animals.

I think that insects are in first place.

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Macro photography is an essential element of your work.

Do Polish nature and wildlife provide easy topics? In macro photography, the love for creative experiments is particularly desirable. Could this be one of the elements of your interest?

Photography is my passion and the way to spend my free time. In addition to constantly exploring its secrets, it is also great fun for me, a stepping stone from everyday life and direct contact with nature, which I really like. Polish nature provides both easy and difficult topics. Sometimes something that I thought seems easy in practice turns out to be difficult. Everything depends on what you want to achieve and how to show the chosen model. I attach great importance to the quality of photography. I like to experiment and give my photography a fairy-tale climate.

MACRO WILDERNESS EXPLORER PAWEŁ ON FACEBOOK: PAWEŁ PLUCIŃSKI , Pawel Plucinski

'

Maybe you just want to show something that is invisible to our eye?

Yes, we can see certain details only in the stopped frame. Sometimes these are things invisible to our eye. Macro photography gives such opportunities.

Do you agree with the idea that by ignoring the majority of the scene that stretches out before you, you have the chance to divide reality into particles and explore them, discover individual blocks of the building? Is the whole secret of macro photography to look for unusual places, even if apparently they do not seem to be inspirational?

How is it in your case, is it open air and nature?

A very apt idea. In macro photography, that's the way it is. I discover it anew every time. As for the places where I photographs, then it in my case these are usually open air locations. I usually photograph mainly in Natura 2000 areas near which I live, but I also shoot in unusual places. Insects can be found everywhere; they are on the meadows, on the sidewalk or even at home. If you want to enter the world of macro photography, you should master both the light and technique.

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GALLERY MACRO WILDERNESS EXPLORER BY PAWEŁ PLUCIŃSKI

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GALLERY MACRO WILDERNESS EXPLORER BY PAWEŁ PLUCIŃSKI

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M E D I A

S U P P O R T

O F

L O V E

P O L A N D

JAN MATEJKO HOUSE

UL. FLORIAŃSKA 41 31-019 KRAKÓW +48 12 433 59 63

OPENING HOURS MONDAY: CLOSED TUES - SAT: 10am - 6pm SUNDAY: 10am - 4pm

ticket office: (012) 433-59-63 Logotype of the Polish History Museum, by Piotr Młodożeniec

e-mail: dommatejki@mnk.pl

source: mnk.pl/branch/the-matejko-house

Jan Matejko House The permanent exhibition is housed in the family home of Jan Matejko (1838-1893), the greatest Polish artist working in the genre of history painting, a collector and an enthusiast for monuments, particularly those in Krakow.

The old Krakow building (rebuilt in the 18th and 19th centuries) is the place where Jan Matejko was born, lived with his family, created his paintings and passed away.

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The collection comprises letters, official documents, jubilee mementos, tokens of appreciation, and, above all, oil paintings and drawings, objects from Matejko's collection accumulated throughout his life, works of other artists, family photographs, photographs of the master's paintings taken in the 19th century as well as his collection of books and music scores. The Jan Matejko House promotes the unknown aspects of the artist's life and work, as well as his impressive collection of handicrafts, textiles and military objects. This purpose is served by the permanent exhibition, which presents the collection of the 9th Department – Jan Matejko's Collections, as well as numerous temporary exhibitions organised in the branch as well as all over Poland.

Stańczyk was the most famous court jester in Polish history. He was employed by three Polish kings: Alexander, Sigismund the Old and Sigismund Augustus.

Artist: Jan Matejko, Location: Warsaw National Museum, Warsaw, Dimensions: 120 cm × 88 cm (47in × 35in), Medium: Oil on canvas

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Fot. Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl

Skull Chapel / Kaplica Czaszek one of the most unusual places in Poland

This is one huge graveyard enclosed in four walls. The whole interior of the chapel was lined with human remains – real skulls and bones. In total, there are over 3,000 of them. Another 21 thousand of human remains rest in the crypt under the floor, filling it up to a height of about 2 metres. The Skull Chapel in Kudowa Zdrój is the only monument of this kind in Poland.

I visited the chapel many years ago and I remember that looking at a small building from the outside it was impossible to guess what is hidden inside. This mausoleum of death makes a huge, somewhat scary impression. Visiting the chapel, you feel chills on your back, and its extremely dark climate makes this place stay in our memory for a long time. It was not a coincidence that the chapel was created here. On the contrary, the huge number of human skulls and bones was intentionally placed here.

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The interior of the church does not let you forget about the inevitability of a human death. Some of the skulls and tibias that served as the wall and ceiling decoration are arranged in patterns and macabre decors.

Fot. Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl 61Â TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Fot. Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl

The construction of the chapel in this place was started in 1776 by the local parish priest Wacław Tomaszek, Czech by origin. It took him eight years to collect the bones, disinfect and impregnate them as well as arrange the debris inside the chapel, although historians mention that the priest devoted the last thirty years of his life to this unique place. Where did the idea for the chapel come from? It could be born while the clergy was visiting the catacombs in Rome.

As he claimed, he was horrified by the sight of underground dark corridors, open human graves full of skeletons and skulls. The inspiration for the chapel could also be not too distant, famous Church of Skulls in the town of Kutna Hora in the Czech Republic.

However, from the idea to the implementation, the way is usually long. In this case, the chapel could not be created without the "material" that would fill it up. It happened, however, that one day Father Tomaszek noticed dogs scattering the ground near the old belfry outside the church. Human skulls and bones stuck out from 62 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

the dug holes. Together with the local gravedigger J. Langer and a verger J. Schmidt, they secured the bones extracted from the ground. It turned out that the bones belonged to local residents who died of cholera at the time of the epidemic during the 30-year war (1618-1648) and the people killed during the Silesian wars, mainly the 7-year war (1756-1763). Later, on the initiative of the priest, skulls and bones of the dead from the area of Kudowa, Duszniki and Polanica Zdrój were also collected. Human remains were extracted from shallow graves or collected in the fields. The parish priest, moved by a huge amount of remains, decided to find a worthy place for them. The best idea was to build a chapel.

The chapel has been there for years. The skulls in the room are in good condition so that the place often makes a gruesome impression on the visitors. Not without significance is the fact that not all bones are anonymous.

There are even the remains of the originator of the chapel, priest Wacław Tomaszek and the gravedigger Langer, who for many years helped the priest in his work. Both of them mentioned in their testaments that they would love their remains to be placed in the chapel. There is also the skull of the village leader Martiniec, shot by the Prussians during the seven-year war (1756-1763) and many other identified by name remains of people.

Walls of this small, baroque church are filled with three thousand skulls, and there are also bones of another 21 thousand people interred in the basement.

Fot. Mariusz Cieszewski / www.polska.pl

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FALL IN LOVE WITH POLAND AT NIGHT

Polish gems captured in the frame by night

WRITTEN BY: WOJCIECH CIOMBROWSKI and KRZYSZTOF MASIUK PHOTOS: KRZYSZTOF MASIUK

FALL IN LOVE WITH POLAND AT NIGHT

FALL IN LOVE WITH POLAND AT NIGHT WRITTEN BY: WOJCIECH CIOMBROWSKI PHOTOS: KRZYSZTOF MASIUK

T h e n u m b e r o f K r z y s z t o f M a s i u k ’s p a s s i o n s w o u l d b e sufficient for a few people. Although this Susz citizen is educated in history and professionally deals with ecology as well, he has always been faithful to his youthful love which is photography. For months he has been traveling through Polish cities and towns, discovering their charms, but after dusk. Everything within the project "Fall in love with Poland at night".

FIRST STEPS Krzysztof Masiuk was bitten by the photography bug because of his parents. First, he was impressed by his father, holding in his Hands a mysterious device. A few years later he got a stereoslide browser from his mother, along with several sets of slides depicting the largest cities portrayed by night. The multicolour world fascinated young Susz inhabitant so that he wished to take in the future pictures similar to those that he admired in the browser. The first step towards implementation of the plan he made in the fourth grade of primary school. Of course, still with the help of parents who gave him a simple to use, Polish Druh, replaced after some time with the famous for having a nonfreezing shutter – Smiena 8M. It was absolutely reliable, even over eight thousand meters. I took a lot of nice pictures with this camera at lower altitudes. Technically, they were still not perfect, but the appetite grew with eating – Krzysztof Masiuk recalls his childhood years when at the end of primary school he already had another Soviet 35 mm camera – FED3, which was a successful copy of the German Leica. Nevertheless, as every photographer, he began to dream about a reflex camera – I got it from my mother as a "bribe" for completing my studies, which was the something I was not particularly interested in. My mother's promise worked well and a few months later I had my graduation diploma in my pocket and another Soviet iconic camera on my neck. This time it was Zenit 12xp – the Susz photographer talks about his ‘afterburner’. The fact that the photography may be addictive similarly to drugs is known to everyone who tasted at least a little of it. It was the same with our resident of Susz, whose dream was to get a Japanese 235mm camera Yashica.

It was possible to buy it in a mining shop, if you had so-called „G” book – available for miners who worked during their days off. Lots of Susz residents used to work in mines those days.

I found a friend who agreed to but for me this Japanese gem for his book. I sold my entire collection of 300 vinyl records along with the iconic gramophone Fonomaster and thanks to that I had money for my desired camera. Unfortunately when I had money, the cameras disappeared from the store shelves – Krzysztof Masiuk recalls with regret. Although from year to year his workshop was getting better, participating in competitions never seemed attractive to him. He sent his works to several of them with good results, he did not pay much attention to them. – Each verdict is a very subjective evaluation of the juror, which does not reflect the perception of work by the average person. I do not need recognition from critics or jurors – Susz photographer says modestly.

TRAPPED BY NIGHT Krzysztof Masiuk's childhood dreams, regarding depicting cities by night started to come true about two or three years ago. Then he learned the technique of taking pictures with the help of the so-called HDR, i.e. with a high dynamic range.

An additional stimulus was the changes that have taken place in recent years in Polish cities and towns. – Once, in Poland, to find something nicely illuminated at night, it was a real achievement. And today it is rather an exception if you cannot find something, although it still happens sometimes show beautiful architectural gems that we have in our country, which are still little known or even completely unknown. I want to convince especially foreigners that Poland is a country of big changes, that there are no bears walking down the streets and the appearance of of the country is not much different from the cities and regions of other parts of Europe – although sometimes it exceeds them with its beauty – Krzysztof Masiuk says, explaining the idea that guides him when creating photos as a part of the "Fall in love with Poland at night" project. He does not hide that he prepares for a long time to go to a place, browsing photos on the Internet, to know what is already... well-known and hackneyed. Often, being on the spot, he discovers pearls, which only a few people knew about or some that nobody was able to show in an attractive way. It is not uncommon for him to use the help of town guards as they are the ones who know the cities like nobody else.

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FALL IN LOVE WITH POLAND AT NIGHT

When talking about his project, Krzysztof Masiuk admits, that taking photos at night is not the easiest task. – Looking at night photos, you get easily tired because when they are taken at night, the rear plan and the front one are usually merged into one piece. After watching a few similar photos we become bored with them. Sometimes, as night shots are taken at dusk or just before dawn, then the back plan is not black but lightly dark blue or navy and it is isolated from the front plan. You can sometimes take such photos for a variety, but there can’t be only these kinds of shots as dusk or dawn does not last forever and, on the other hand, I like when the night is what it is – the photographer explains the details. For this reason, he separately captures the front plan and the background, and then combines the elements with each other, while achieving a three-dimensional effect.

– I imitate entirely the forerunner of this technique, Gustaw Le Gray, who in the late nineteenth century used a similar technique to fully reflect the sea view – notes the author of the project.

The effect of Krzysztof Masiuk's night escapades could be admired during many exhibitions that were organised in Poland and abroad. Each exhibition attracted attention.

Even in Paris during the first foreign exhibition organised at the Roi Doré Gallery, over 150 people attended its opening, including a large group of the Parisian world of culture. Last year in Atlanta during the exhibition of the project in the town hall, the exhibition was watched by the Americans, surprised that Poland looks like a land from a fairy tale. But there is no wonder that the Americans were surprised when even some residents of Polish towns and cities are amazed that there are such gems in their regions. And this is probably what the artist wanted to achieve – his pictures are noticed, nobody who sees them stays indifferent, even if sometimes the opinions are… „ It was the happiest day of my life. After two years of making nights I was happy that the visitors liked the effects of my work. On their faces I saw joy when they recognised some placed, sometimes delight, sometimes amazement. When I returned in the evening to the hotel, all happy, I saw a post of a Cracovian internet user who just cut me to ribbons. He called my photos „rubbish” and said that I should never take a camera to my hand again. And my wife was surprised to see that this opinion also pleased me as it showed that my photos arouse emotions and that the author of this opinion did not stay indifferent – Krzysztof added.

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FALL IN LOVE WITH POLAND AT NIGHT FACEBOOK.COM/ZAKOCHAJSIEW POLSCENOCA KRZYSZTOF MASIUK T h e n u m b e r o f K r z y s z t o f M a s i u k ’s p a s s i o n s would be sufficient for a few people.

Although this Susz citizen is educated in history and professionally deals with ecology as well, he has always been faithful to his youthful love which is photography. For months he has been traveling through Polish cities and towns, discovering their charms, but after dusk. Everything within the project "Fall in love with Poland at night".

PACKING UP FOR SUCHA BESKIDZKA KRZYSZTOF

We will jump for a moment to my beloved Sucha Beskidzka.

One of the people from the fanpage "Fall in love with Poland at night" asked me if I was from Sucha Beskidzka. Yes, indeed! I have been from Sucha since I was born!

Most Poles associate Sucha Beskidzka with this wonderful tavern that stands on the market square. As befits a tavern, it is obviously called "Rome" and famous prof. Wiktor Zin himself, once known to most Poles from painting "With a feather and coal" on a glass screen and familiarizing Poles with the art of drawing, architecture and history, took part in its reconstruction and renovation.

The inn, as befits an object of this type, was from its opening the centre of the whole life. I performed in it, I played truant there, met with girls and of course with friends from my pack. I think that if

MASIUK

the walls could talk, they would tell more than one story. I remember how I used to sit down at the table with my pals once during a heavy PRL, and at the neighbouring table a man sat down and ordered two teas. Teas were ordinary, as for those times, i.e. probably two cups of "Madras". The man sat for an hour and sipped one and the other, as it turned out, was a tea miracle :) Why? Well, the latter he drank more often than the first one and with large sips, and the contents of the glass remained unchanged, only from yellow it turned into straw and then light straw colour. After an hour when he got up, he barely stood on his feet, and when he first came he did not have any pain. And those were such times, and everything in this wonderful tavern :) Today I still recommend traditional soup called "żurek stryszawski" and a drink called "satanic mixture".

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PACKING UP FOR LUBLIN KRZYSZTOF

MASIUK

Lublin is the largest Polish city east of the Vistula River and is approximately 170 kilometres (106 miles) to the southeast of Warsaw by road. One of the events that greatly contributed to the city's development was the Polish-Lithuanian Union of Krewo in 1385. Until the partitions at the end of the 18th century, Lublin was a royal city of the Crown Kingdom of Poland. Its delegates and nobles had the right to participate in the Royal Election. In 1578 Lublin was chosen as the seat of the Crown Tribunal, the highest appeal court in the Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth, and for centuries the city has been flourishing as a centre of culture and higher learning, with Kraków, Warsaw, Poznań and Lwów. Although Lublin was not spared from severe destruction during World War II, its picturesque and historical Old Town has been preserved. The district is one of Poland's official national Historic Monuments, as designated May 16, 2007, and tracked by the National Heritage Board of Poland.

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PACKING UP FOR TARNÓW KRZYSZTOF

MASIUK

I would like to shaw you one of the nicest photos that I managed to take in Tarnów. A funny anecdote is connected with this photo. I once had an exhibition of this project in Paris and a well-known French choreographer came to the opening. This picture with the Cathedral Street opened the exhibition and she looked at it and then asked: – "Is it this famous golden street in Prague?". The woman, who was a translator, replied that this street was also gold, though a little less known, and located in Tarnów in Poland.

The first documented mention of Tarnów occurs in the year 1309, when a list of miracles of Kinga of Poland specifies a woman named Marta, who was resident of the settlement. In 1327, a knight named Spicymir purchased a village of Tarnów Wielki, and three years later, founded his own private town.

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PACKING UP FOR OSTRÓW WIELKOPOLSKI KRZYSZTOF

MASIUK

Ostrów Wielkopolski is a city in central Poland situated in the Greater Poland Voivodeship. Ostrów received town privileges in 1404 but the economic stagnation caused by fires, wars, and a weak 16th-century nobility, led to the town's officials dropping its town status in 1711. In 1714, one of the nobility of Ostrów, Jan Jerzy Przebendowski, intervened at the royal court, for the status to be reinstated. By the power of a Royal Marshall, Franciszek Bielinski, the town received its status back with greater privileges. Another noble family, the Radziwiłłowie took patronage over the town and looked over its many investments. The care of the town’'s owners, work of its people, and dedication of its officials, as well as its location, favoured the town’'s continuous growth. The establishment of a railroad hub in Ostrów was a vital turning point in its development, helping to lend the town prominent status on the local and national scene.

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PACKING UP FOR CRACOW KRZYSZTOF

MASIUK

St. Mary's Basilica in Kraków.

The construction of St. Mary's Basilica was started in late 13th century on the foundations of a former Romanesque church.

The new temple was consecrated around the year 1320.

Over the centuries, the church underwent numerous reconstructions of both its exterior and interior. The extended single-aisle presbytery under a stellar vault was built in late 14th century. The light comes inside through the high stained glass windows. Only three windows have been preserved from the original medieval stained glass. The rest is from the 19th century and was created by individuals such as Stanisław Wyspiański and Józef Mehoffer. In the 16th century, stalls under canopies were set up on both sides the presbytery, which was equipped with backboards with images from the lives of Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary in the following century.

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PACKING UP FOR ZIELONA GÓRA KRZYSZTOF

MASIUK

The city's history began when Polish Duke Henry the Bearded brought first settlers to the area in 1222. In 1323 Zielona Góra was granted town privileges and subsequently passed to Bohemia in 1335. Zielona Góra is surrounded by tree-covered hills and the adjacent woodland alone makes up approximately half of the city's total area. The name of the city itself translates to 'Green Mountain' in both Polish and German. Moreover, Zielona Góra features several tourist attractions and important historical sites including the preserved medieval Old Town, 13th-century Market Square, tenements, palaces, parks and the famous Palm House on Wine Hill.

Its strong connection to vineyards and grape-picking earned Zielona Góra a nickname "The City of Wine".

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PACKING UP FOR GRUDZIĄDZ KRZYSZTOF

MASIUK

Grudziądz is located close to the east shore of river Vistula, approximately 177 kilometres (106 miles) south of Gdańsk. Initially Grudziądz was a defensive gród founded by Polish ruler Bolesław I the Brave. The settlement was re-fortified again from 1234 by the Teutonic Order; the erection of the castle with the help of stone as building material was begun with around the middle of the 13th century. Under the protection of the castle the settlement gradually begun to develop to a town. In 1277 both "the castle and the town" were besieged heavily by the Yotvingians. The settlement adopted Kulm law in 1291 while under the rule of the monastic state of the Teutonic Knights. The oldest building parts of the Catholic St. Nicholas' Church stem from the end of the 13th century. During the era of the State of the Teutonic Knights Graudenz had become a distinguished trade center, in particular for textiles and agricultural products including grain.

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Granaries on the Brda River in BydgoszczÂ

 photo: TADEUSZ DOROSZKO

KONIK POLSKI / BIŁGORAJSKI EASTERN POLAND PHOTOGRAPHY BY TADEUSZ DOROSZKO I will not mention the truly natural food that is still available here, although the changes for the worse are very dynamic. I belong to people who like and benefit from the technological achievements of the modern world but at the same time I feel great in Spartan and harsh conditions. I think that our perception of the world depends more on our sensitivity and consciousness rather than on the place of residence.

Podlasie is a land of powerful contrasts, but this real PEACE and QUIET is special and unique especially in a place where I have lived for twelve years. one hundred meters from the NAREW river and 1km from the nearest village.

One of your exhibitions is entitled 'Sentimental Journey' I am a romantic by nature and to some extent even a loner.

Despite the fact that I was born and raised in a city, from an early age I felt best being in the forest, on the water and among animals. Thanks to photography I visit places that I remember from my childhood, hence the title of this exhibition. I am convinced that the specificity of this region as well as the books that accompanied me in my childhood had the greatest impact on my personality.

DNALOP NRETSAE ERUTAN

Who is Tadeusz Doroszko? A musician, a photographer, or maybe a bit of both?

I have no doubt that at this stage of my life I am both a musician and a photographer… In my opinion, these two areas are like two very close relatives.

Interest in photography has revolved around me for a long time, but a great passion appeared just a few years ago.

While taking a picture with a mobile phone, I experienced some kind of revelation and incredible excitement. I cannot even describe it. Similar feeling often accompanies me even today while taking pictures, although not always. At such moments, I have the impression of moving into a different dimension. In photography, I am most attracted to unpredictability and uniqueness, especially in the photography of nature and landscape. The region of Poland in which I was born and where I live to this day, paradoxically, "THANKS” to its civilisation backwardness is an area exceptionally friendly to the true nature of a man.

You get the impression that time flows much slower here and you can meet people with faces expressing the true state of mind, which is not common in today's global world.

The Konik (konik polski/biłgorajski) Eastern Poland photography by Tadeusz Doroszko The Konik (Polish: konik polski or konik biłgorajski) is a small, semi-feral horse, originating in Poland. The Polish word konik (plural koniki) is the diminutive of koń, the Polish word for "horse" (sometimes confused with kuc, kucyk meaning "pony"). However, the name "konik" or "Polish konik" is used to refer to certain specific breeds.

Koniks show many primitive markings, including a dun coat and dorsal stripe.

The breed has a strong and stocky build, small head with a straight profile, and a neck set low out of the chest. The Konik has a deep chest, a thick mane, and the hair coat is blue dun, often colloquially called "mouse-gray". The Konik is short in height, ranging from 130–140cm. Minimum heart girth measurement is 165cm. Weight is 350-400kg (770-880lb).

The Konik is a Polish horse breed descending from very hardy horses from the Biłgoraj region. These horses had a predominantly dun colour, but also black and chestnut horses were present in the population.

Some researchers claim these foundation animals were hybrids with wild horse breeding that had been sold to farmers by the zoo in Zamość in 1806, which were bred to local domesticated draft horses. However, genetic studies now contradict the view that the Konik is a surviving form of Eastern European wild horse, commonly called the tarpan, nor is it closely related to them. The Konik shares mitochondrial DNA with many other domesticated horse breeds and their Y-DNA is nearly identical. During World War I, these horses were important transport animals for Russian and German troops and were called Panje horses.

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Koniks today are bred either in barns or open reserves and under human guidance. The Konik was bred for a larger shoulder height in past decades, to improve its value as a working horse. A more graceful appearance, especially of the head, was established, as well. Black and sorrel horses have been largely selected out, but still appear on occasion, as do white markings. The simultaneous management of Koniks in both barns and reserves made it possible to compare the health and behaviour of the horses under different circumstances. For example, hoof diseases and hay allergies are more common in Koniks raised in barns than in reserves.

In Poland, Koniks currently live on nature reserves at Popielno, Roztocze National Park, Stobnica Research Station of the University of Life Sciences in Poznań. They are bred in controlled conditions at a state stud at Popielno, Sieraków. Private breeders currently own 310 mares and 90 stallions; the state studs own 120 mares and 50 stallions. As it phenotypically resembles the extinct tarpan, the Konik has also been introduced into nature reserves in other nations. One of the first was the Oostvaardersplassen in the Netherlands.The area is open to the public, but people are advised not to go near the horses because their reactions are unpredictable. Following the success of this program, Koniks were also brought to Latvia and to the United Kingdom.The view that the Polish Konik is the most recent 'descendant' of the European wild horse has been debunked.

The Konik and Eastern Poland Podlasie is a land of powerful contrasts, but this real PEACE and QUIET is special and unique especially in a place where I have lived for twelve years...

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TADEUSZ DOROSZKO www.facebook.com/TADZIODOR www.taddor.flog.pl 79 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

NATURE EASTERN POLAND PHOTOGRAPHY BY TADEUSZ DOROSZKO

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NATURE EASTERN POLAND PHOTOGRAPHY BY TADEUSZ DOROSZKO

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NATURE EASTERN POLAND PHOTOGRAPHY BY TADEUSZ DOROSZKO

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NATURE EASTERN POLAND PHOTOGRAPHY BY TADEUSZ DOROSZKO

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The Świętokrzyskie Mountains the Holy Cross Mountains

WORDS BY

PHOTO BY

swietokrzyskipn.org.pl

Mariusz Ciszewski, polska.pl

The Świętokrzyskie Mountains (the Holy Cross Mountains) are the oldest ranges in Poland. Uplifted during three different orogenic periods, they cover the part of the Lesser Poland Upland, between the Pilica and the Vistula rivers. Their outlines are gentle, and their altitudes are not impressive. Yet they fascinate by an extremely original structure, diverse vegetation and animal life.

No wonder, the idea of protecting the area of the Łysogóry range emerged as early as at the beginning of the 20th century. In 1908, Polish Country Lovers’ Society – the Committee for the Conservation of Natural Monuments made a recommendation to create a nature reserve here. Thus, began an almost half-century period of social efforts for creating a national park in this area. The first strict reserve in the Świętokrzyskie Mountains, the reserve on Chełmowa Góra, was established in 1920. It covered the forest complex where the Polish larch occurs naturally. In 1924 two other reserves were created: the reserve on Łysa Góra and on Łysica. In 1923, the areas adjacent to the existing reserves were covered by partial protection. Besides, the partial reserve on Miejska Góra was established. The total area of the reservations amounted to 1347.4 ha, and constituted the core of the future Park.

After the Second World War the efforts to cover this area with protection were continued.

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Their consummation was the establishment of the Świętokrzyski Park Narodowy in 1950. In 1966, the area of the Park was enlarged by the part of the Klonowski range and the Zapusty complex.

Today, the Park occupies the area of 7,626.45 ha, and its buffer zone covers 20,786.07 ha. The Park encompasses: the Łysogóry range with the highest summits of the Świętokrzyskie Mountains: Łysica (612 metres) and Łysa Góra (595 metres), a part of the Klonowski range with the mountains: Psarska (415 metres), Miejska (426 metres) and Bukowa (484 metres), a part of the Pokrzywiański range with Chełmowa Góra (351 metres), parts of the valleys: Wilkowska and Dębniańska.

The Park is divided administratively into 8 forest districts: Chełmowa Góra, Dąbrowa, Dębno, Jastrzębi Dół, Klonów, Podgórze, Święta Katarzyna, and Święty Krzyż. Their aim is to carry out preplanned tasks concerning the protection of natural, cultural, and landscape values.

The Świętokrzyski National Park in numbers Park area: 7626,45ha Buffer zone area: 20 786,07ha Border length: 168km 95% of the Park is covered by forests 23% of the Park is the area of strict protection in which human activity is prohibited by law.

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ŁYSA GÓRA PEAK The peak of Łysa Góra is surrounded by a stone embankment, piled with quartizitic sandstone boulders. The embankment is about 1.5 kilometres long, and over 2 metres high. Dated back to the 8th-11th century AD, it is commonly believed to have functioned as religious cult circles separating places regarded as holy from the surrounding. It is said that within the area designated by the embankment, religious rites were performed.

According to the Czech Benedictine records from the 16th century, Łysa Góra was dedicated to three deities called Łada, Boda i Leli (Whoosh, Whistle and Weather). At the beginning of spring, people gathered near the embankment in order to say prayers and make offerings to the deities mentioned above.

check more at www.swietokrzyskipn.org.pl

The Świętokrzyski National Park is divided into zones of landscape, active, and strict protection. In the strict protection areas human interference is fully prohibited. They are left to unhindered influence of the forces of nature.

There are five such areas, originally reserves, in the Park:

Święty Krzyż (Holy Cross Mountain) was established in 1924, and covers the area of 476.9ha. Oak-hornbeam, fir and beech forests are found here. Vast boulder fields, called gołoborza, are a very valuable part of nature. Łysica (Łysica Mountain) was established in 1924. Its area is 1186.4ha. As far as nature is concerned, the area resembles the reserve mentioned above. It is covered by oak-hornbeam, fir and beech forests, and by gołoborza, which are even vaster than in the Święty Krzyż Reserve.

Czarny Las (Black Forest) was established in 1954 and covers the area of 26.5ha. It consists of mixed forests, oakhornbeam forests with fir, small-leaved lime, with the addition of beech and black alder, wet leafy and riparian forests.

In the Park's ecosystems there are among others: over 859 plant species, including 35 tree species - 272 algae species - 450 fungi species About 340 lichens species and animals such as: - birds: 150 species, including 118 species nestling in the Park - mammals: 45 species - amphibians: 14 species - reptiles: 6 species - land snails: 66 species - spiders: 187 species - insects: over 1500 species, including - butterflies: 611 species - scales: 87 species and 177 flies

visit Świętokrzyski National Park is a Park in Świętokrzyskie Voivodeship in central Poland. The Park has its headquarters in Bodzentyn.

SKRAP LANOITAN

Chełmowa Góra (Mount Chełmowa) was established in 1920 to protect the sites of the natural occurrence of the Polish larch (Larix polonica). Today, its area amounts to 13.2ha. This small piece of land is covered by oak-hornbeam, mixed and beech forests.

Mokry Bór (Wet Woods) was established in 1954, and its area is 37.9ha. It includes small areas of marshy small-reed coniferous forest as well as marshy and fresh coniferous forests. Such vegetation complexes do not occur anywhere else in the Park. Bogs and transitional mires can be also found in this area.

SHEPHERDS

Pieniny Mountains photography Krystian Bielatowicz

Sheep farming in the Pieniny region, as in the Podhale region, has always been the major traditional agricultural activity as well as the one which has shaped the region’s specific character.

an interview and reflections

by Krystian Bielatowicz

SHEPHERDS Pieniny Mountains

photo: Michal Korta

Krystian Bielatowicz

I dedicate the beauty that I could photograph To my wonderful children, Sebastian, Sara, Kaja and Tymon My beautiful wife Shu And all of you who can see it.

Contact: www.bielatowicz.com, www.facebook.com/krystian.bielatowicz www.vimeo.com/bielatowicz

Krystian Bielatowicz photographer, filmmaker, editor, a qualified archaeologist Photography Krystian Bielatowicz is the portal editor of Szeroki Kadr, where he makes multimedia presentations. He specialises in social documentaries.

He is also a lecturer at the Nikon Academy. Krystian was a member of the Grand Press Photo jury (2014, 2015) and the jury of the National Photography Competition, “Fotomaraton 2015 Szczecin”. His photographs have been published, among others, in Newsweek Polska, National Geographic, National Geographic Traveler, Polityka, Duży Format, The Virginia Quarterly Review, Private Magazine, El Comercio, Caretas.

Film Krystian makes short documentaries. For many years he specialised in multimedia interviews. He is the author of over ninety interviews with photographers from Poland, the USA and the UK. For several years he has been involved in the production of video guides for Szeroki Kadr.

During all this time Bielatowicz has been looking for new forms of presentation. In 2009, with Shu, he created original video guides about photography. In 2015 he presented on Szeroki Kadr a new series of educational films about photography: https://www.szerokikadr.pl/poradnik/wideoporadnik-portret-osobisty

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SHEPHERDS and the smoked cheese By travel.lovePoland and Krystian Bielatowicz

Krystian, watching your work as a photographer, one can get the impression that you are fascinated or inspired by a man, usually just a man and his surroundings. The Black Gold, Shepherds or other projects are just like that, is this valid observation?

From the very beginning I was focused on telling a story about a man. Shepherds, coal burners, descendants of the Incas in Peru, Mayans in Mexico and Guatemala, Slavs. And there was always fascination at the beginning. I wanted to get to know these people, their world. That's why I was looking for a social group I was interested in, a family with whom I spent a lot of time.

Because of the universal patterns, we often understand each other, especially in a group derived from a similar culture or religion. I think it is the same with photographic projects. When I accomplish a project, I see it in my head in a certain style, form. It can evolve, but it's already there because I'm like that at the moment.

And I do not think about the viewer, about the recipient, because I create something that arises from connecting me with the heroes of photography. I do it for myself.

But because of my path, these photos finally reach viewers. One will like it, others will not. Depending on how close our realities are. For someone it will be documentation, for another artistic essay.

Many of your works are embedded in certain reality, the reality of a world imperceptible to people accustomed to a colourful vision of reality, do you think that your message or sometimes documentation will be comprehensible to the viewer, or perhaps it is important for you to capture the moment stopped in time without having to establish communication with the viewer/ receiver?

In my opinion, every man lives in his own reality. In his own world. At least a dozen or so years of living with parents, then the influence of environment, then life partners, it all causes that we are individualists who move around their own space-time.

Can we say about your work that to a large extent you creatively penetrate the social motives, preserving the manifestations of life in its harsh aspects? Sometimes I find in them some associations with the works of Sebastião Salgado. Is such a comparison legitimate?

Maybe you do not like comparisons?

I do not define my photograph and I do not compare myself to others. I leave interpretations to the viewers.

Everyone can see something else. I focus more on what I feel, what I personally look for. And it just happens. Each project reveals a new part of me. I only discover myself for myself. I do not do this for the viewer. With the viewer I share only what is outside, i.e. photography.

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SHEPHERDS Pieniny Mountains Krystian Bielatowicz

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SHEPHERDS PIENINY MOUNTAINS KRYSTIAN BIELATOWICZ

THE PROJECT The SHEPHERDS project, presenting the daily work of shepherds in the Pieniny Mountains, deviates from a standard view on a similar topic, you show the life, energy, focus on a rather raw, maybe for many 'unattractive' form. There are no collars or 'beautiful' folklore. Was it the result of spontaneous contact with the subject/ people? or rather your vision of the world, your sensitivity?

I learned photography by reviewing hundreds of times photo-reportages in the issues of National Geographic magazines from the 1980s and 1990s.

Finally, I went to Pieniny, beautiful mountains in Poland, in search of topics for my first photo-story. I took an analogue Practice, 28mm lens and three Rolls of slides. In Pieniny I met many people, artists, craftsmen, GOPR rescuers, etc. But I stayed for two days in a shepherd’s hut. The light, people and a deep desire to get to know their life and work stopped me there. The first ones were on slides in colour. And that's how I felt and saw it then. But when I came back with a DSLR, my perception changed. Black and white frames, high contrast. I could not do it differently. That's how I saw it then and how I have seen it until now. Raw, locked in the right composition.

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SHEPHERDS Pieniny Mountains Krystian Bielatowicz

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A danger for sheep is not only decline of tradition, but also natural enemy – the wolfs. In order to protect them, they sleep beside in prosaic boxes, the pastoral dogs help too. Sheep are source of wool, milk and meat. To the shepherds duties belongs 24-hour protection over sheep, pasturing, trimming, milking. A kilogram of sheep's wool is bought up for one zloty (30 cents). Sheep are cut twice a year. Milking is proceed twice a day, at 4am and 3 pm.

From one milking there are gotten 4-5 buckets of milk, each time it is accompanied with producing the oscypek cheese, bunc cheese, żętyca yoghurt. Oscypki are smoked for 3 days.

A

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The first photos were taken in 2003. This was my first photo-reportage. A modest, student budget allowed the purchase of three rolls of slides. With a camera and 28mm lens, I spent two days in a hut in Jaworki, in the Pieniny Mountains. I wanted to see and feel the place where, for generations, they have made 'oscypek' i.e. smoked cheese made from sheep's milk. Since then I have been going to the huts regularly. In the meantime, I made a short documentary film and run workshops on documentary photography.

A

95Â TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

SHEPHERDS PIENINY MOUNTAINS KRYSTIAN BIELATOWICZ

THE SHEPHERDS, MOUNTAIN PEOPLE How did you, the photographer, get on during work with the shepherds, mountain people, who every day lead a fairly simple life, focused on work, sometimes really hard work. What did you want to show or pass on? What is needed to be able to work with them as a photographer? Is it easy to get their trust?

We get on very well with the shepherd or Wojtek Gromada. Since 2013, I have been going there almost every year and we get on great. We trust each other, we are happy to meet sometimes. Each of us has own reality and if it understands, respects, does not judge another reality, it creates the confidence and power needed for joint action, common communication.

I think that this story is about what goes past. Probably the shepherds baca and juhas as they are called in Polish – will disappear from our tradition and soon we will be able to see only photographs and films with their participation. My photos will not stop this process, but I can capture the moment when they are still living among us, they create the tradition and culture of our country.

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Seventeen years later – since my firs photo was taken, I still observe the everyday life of the shepherds – "baca" Wojtek and "juhas" Stanisław. And although there are several shepherds there, almost no one stays for long.

Living in the mountain pastures from the end of April to October, regardless of the weather, is not easy.

Especially for young people who have a modern life to lose, which is now far from close to nature and hard physical work.

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From the very beginning, I knew that I would show this world in this way. I did not change this view after a restaurant and a ski lift were built next to the huts. Â Although the world is changing, I hope that my romantic perspective creates a calm and empathic understanding of the tradition and beauty of our planet. We forgot that life is vibrant with the seasons and times of the day. We are more connected to Earth than to the world that forgets about it and creates new needs and pleasures.

In The Pieniny mountain, shepherds do not belong to rareness. However, such state of thing can change.

Present generation of herders seems be the last one. Youth do not feel attracted for heavy work in mountains, they runaway to the cities. Herds of sheep are less numerous. Oscypek, the smoked cheese made of salted sheep milk, exclusively in Poland, turns out less profitable and is substituted with products of cow milk. If you want to get a real oscypek, you have to recover a proper shepherds house, such as the one in Jaworki, small village at border with Slovakia. Where works a senior shepherd and five herders. Sheep are pastured at nearby glades, in a distance of one kilometre. Herd counts presently almost seven hundred sheep. Several years ago it was twice numerous.Â

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FOLK COSTUMES a guide to the Polish traditions

POLISH REGIONAL COSTUMES CRACOW REGION LESSER POLAND

POLISH REGIONAL COSTUMES Cracow Region Lesser Poland The Cracow costume was developed at the turn of the 17th and 18th centuries and was the first of peasant costumes to be noticed by higher social classes. It was due to its uniqueness. It was then the richest folk costume.

The Cracow costume distinguished itself from other outfits with the colour and similarity of some elements to the noble costume (eg: a cap called krakuska is similar to the cap worn by noblemen, called konfederatka). The Cracow costume entered aristocratic salons during the reigns of the Saxons.

Then, a fashion trend cane from France for fancy dress parties, during which the aristocracy dressed up as shepherds. In Poland, the Cracow costume was the most popular then. In full the Cracow outfit formed in the second half of the 18th century. Then it was relatively uniform. A breakthrough date in the history of the Cracow costume was a year 1794. At that time, it started to exist in the national culture thanks to the first Polish opera "Cud mniemany, czyli Krakowiacy i Górale" [A Supposed Miracle or Cracovians and Highlanders], and the oath of allegiance to the nation, in the same year, by Tadeusz Kosciuszko at the Market Square in Krakow. in a white Cracovian peasant coat, raised it to the national symbol and national costume.

In addition, the participation of the Cracow peasants in the Kościuszko Insurrection made the Cracow outfit become the military uniform of Krakusi and Kosynierzy.

The division of the Cracow Land between the Krakow Republic and the Austrian Partition, and the Russian Partition, resulted in the diversification of the economic situation of Cracow residents and linked them with other industrial centres.

For this reason, the outfit of Cracovians from Eastern lands, who had no possibility of commercial contacts with Cracow, distinguished from the uniform of the Cracow costume.

Therefore, the dress of Eastern Cracovians began to change. The national costume was still supposed to be the Cracow costume of Western Cracovians who lived in the Cracow area, which became the mainstay of "Polishness". In the mid-nineteenth century, in order to manifest patriotism, a fashion arose among the nobility to make the servants wear the national costume of Cracow. In the second half of the 19th century, the flag troops of Cracow – the representative horse troops of Cracovians in festive costumes, participating in ceremonies with important political and church guests as well as during weddings began to be founded.

These flag troops survived until the Second World War. The next stage in the existence of the Cracow costume in the national culture was marked by the fascination of the creators of Polish modernism: Stanisław Wyspiański, Lucjan Rydel, and Włodzimierz Tetmajer with this outfit.

At the beginning of the twentieth century, the costume of Cracow began to be used by Polonia as a national costume and a way to show individuality.

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POLISH REGIONAL COSTUMES CRACOW REGION LESSER POLAND

THE SEWERYN UDZIELA ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM IN KRAKÓW

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Cracow Costume

Men's outfit (western version)

The most important elements of the Cracow costume were a caftan, a peasant coat and a caftan with sleeves.

Caftan was a long vest; sleeveless with skirts. It was used as a summer topcoat, as well as a garment worn under a straitjacket or a peasant coat, which were typical coverings. Both types of caftan were made of navy blue cloth, laced with with red cloth. They were decorated with rows of buttons made of brass, mother of pearl and tassels. The peasant coat was made of white (or grey) cloth with red undercoat and it used to cover part of shoes. It also had long, tapering sleeves finished with a red trapezoidal snap. There was a large collar by the neck. They were decorated with colourful embroidery, buttons and tassels. In addition, there were also mourning robes, which were decorated with black yarn and were always put directly on the shirt.

'Portki' - linen homespun pants most often in thin, red or pink stripes, were put into high boots with tops and slightly rolled out. The shoes were made of soft cowhide, dyed black or red, and shanked with horseshoes.

An important element of the outfit was the belt.

Cracovians wore two types: a purse and a belt with clattering. The first one was a wide belt made of double leather, embossed and decorated with openwork on colourful pads. In contrast, the belt with clatters was narrower white, studded with brass nails with side plates (on 1-3 thongs) in the form of circles with a knife and a purse for money, and a flint and a hub in the front. After fastening, the tip hung loosely.

Western Cracovians wore three kinds of headgear.

The oldest was a tall hat made of black felt with a small roundabout called a ‘celender’ or ‘żelaźniak’. Another headdress was the Tyniecian 'magierka' – a knitted wool cap. However, the most important type of headgear was a red cap, with a black, sheepskin ring, called a krakuska. The bachelors attached to it a bunch of long, peacock feathers decorated with colourful ribbons falling on the shoulder.

Women's outfit

There were different women's costumes. Skirts and aprons were their important elements. The upper skirts, reaching to the ankles, were made of a flowery material - a tibet fabric, while underneath women would wear white skirts with white, satin embroidery. Over the skirts, a bit shorter, made of the same fabric, aprons were worn. The exception was white tulle aprons, which were also put on flowery skirts. They were often covered entirely with satin and English embroidery Corsets were also an important element of the outfit.

The older type of corset was made of black cloth. In the waist it was finished with made of the same material, several dozen (about 70) trapezoidal wallets. They were decorated only with white buttons and embroidery on the front. The younger type of corset (from the turn of the 19th and 20th century) was sewn from velvet in various colours. The sachets were replaced by a string of folds. Decorations covered almost the whole corset and were made of sequins, colourful beads, tassels, ribbons and colourful embroidery. This type of corset with sewn sleeves was called a katana and it was the most popular straitjacket in the region. On cold days, big, woollen scarves (also known as a checkered shoulder-less) in red, white, blue and green colours were thrown over the shoulders and back. The brides wore braids with woven ribbons and flowers. Wreaths were worn by the bridesmaids. The bride was wearing a grommet. It was a cap with a stiff rim decorated with a red ribbon pinned in a harmonica shape and wreaths of artificial flowers. On the other hand, married women put on a coifs kin. It was a white linen shawl. Putting it on was time-consuming and required a lot of skill, which was why it was taken off like a hat, so that once tied it could be worn several times. Two visible corners of the headscarf were covered with rich English and satin embroidery. They also wore red scarves tied under the chin with decorative motifs of buds and rose flowers.

The costume was complemented by jewellery, especially red beads.

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Date of production early 20th century Place of creation Bronowice (presently, a borough of Kraków), Małopolska Province Dimensions height: collar: 9cm, length: 120cm Museum: The Seweryn Udziela Ethnographic Museum in Kraków

Material: string, cloth, hooks and eyes, thread, silk thread

White sukmana coat – Bronowice costume A men's sukmana coat with a mandarin collar, made of white cloth. The sleeves are finished with small trapezoid lapels, with two oblique pocket holes on the front, fastened with a brass hook and eye. The collar, sleeve lapels, and a slit on the front are lined with red cloth; the edges are finished with a red trim.

Digitalisation: RDW MIC, Małopolska's Virtual Museums project public domain

Date of production beginning of the 20th century Place of creation Zielonki, next to Kraków Dimensions length: ca. 37.5cm Museum: The Seweryn Udziela Ethnographic Museum in Kraków

Material: velvet, hooks and eyes, buttons, cotton fabric, bead, sequin, bullion, haberdashery

Velvet corset for Kraków costume

A woman's corset for the Krakow costume from Bronowice, made of velvet, composed of two front parts, and with a flounce sewn on to it on the back, laid in thirteen folds. The front is fastened with hooks and eyes. It has a white lining and is decorated with haberdashery bands of metal gold and silver threads, and decorative buttons, beads, and sequins.

Digitalisation: RDW MIC, Małopolska's Virtual Museums project public domain

CHARITY WORK BY

lovepoland.org

www.wyszanowo.org The value of life is not its length, but what we leave behind.

Written by prof. Marceli Tureczek The project has been created to support small, local communities in Poland. If you also want to be supported, write to us as well.

Wyszanowo (Wischen in German) is located on the local

A settlement with a medieval origin mentioned in the

road connecting Bukowiec and Międzyrzecz, on the

thirteenth century as Wiszonow, when its owner was

northern edge of the Bukowiecki Embankment. It is a

Sulisław, the son of Brod. His cousin, also Sulisław, the

local moraine elevation of a height of 134m above sea

son of Andrzej, together with his brother Bogusza,

level, located between Wyszanowo and Lutol Suchy. The

sold in 1256 a part of Wyszanowo (Wyszanowo Duże)

village is surrounded by cultivated fields and lies in a

to the Cistercians from Paradyż. Wyszanowo Małe was

varied terrain, rich in clumps of trees and shrubs. In the

owned by the chaplain of Międzyrzecz called Wrocław

surroundings of the settlement there are large forest

(Wrocisław), who in 1276 transferred his share to the

areas, several lakes and two small rivers.

monastery. The process of acquiring the estate by the

To the west of Wyszanowo, in the lowering of Paklica

Cistercians probably ended in 1382, when the Smolkow

and Obra rivers, the protected area Natura 2000 – the

brothers gave up their claim to some part of

Leniwa Obra River Valley that was notified to the

Wyszanowo. Thus, the Paradyż monastery became the

European Commission in 2004 stretches along the

owner of an area of 2,300 hectares of agricultural

meridian. The valley is overgrown with pine forests

land, forests and meadows. In the fifteenth century, in

while at the sides of the watercourses and on the lakes

the lands of Wyszanowo, the Cistercians founded the

one can see broadleaved forest and lowland beech

village of Stary Dwór.

forests. In 1972, a part of a multi-species, swampy

The village was in the hands of the Order for over 500

forest of a natural character was subject to special

years, until 1810, when the property of the monastery

protection, creating the Czarna Droga nature reserve.

was secularised.

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WYSZANOWO.ORG We are still looking for people who would like to share their memories of Wyszanowo. Write to us:

info@wyszanowo.org

You can support this or similar project by visiting our website www.lovepoland.org or www.wyszanowo.org

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Blueberry Dumplings (Pierogi)

BY TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

A summer version of this classic polish dish, blueberry pierogi are a tasty way to enjoy this summer’s berry harvest!

METHOD Dough: Sift flour into a bowl, add salt. Pour the butter into hot water and melt, gradually add the flour, stirring everything with a spoon. Combine the ingredients and put them on a flour-strewn pastry board. Knead the dough with your hands for about 7 minutes, sprinkling the flour if necessary so that the dough does not stick. Put in a bowl and cover with a damp cloth, set aside for about 30 minutes.

Filling: Fresh berries rinse quickly with a gentle stream of cool water. Dry on paper towels, spread on a tray and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon of flour. Â Remove frozen berries from the freezer just before making dumplings (dumplings are easier to stick with frozen fruit).

Put the dough on the pastry board, divide into 3 - 4 parts and roll out each part thinly if necessary, sprinkle the pastry table and roller with flour. With a small glass, cut the dough rings, put a spoon of filling in the centre. Fold the dough ring in half and stick the edges of the dumpling carefully.

Place them on the table or on the countertop.

Boil some salted water in a large pot; after it starts boiling, place the first batch of dumplings (about 15 pieces) into the pot. After water starts boiling again, After re-boiling, reduce the heat to medium and cook the dumplings for about 2 minutes from the time they reach the surface of the water (check earlier because the dumplings can be ready, the length of cooking depends on the thickness of the dough). Take them out with a slotted spoon and place on a tray or plates, keeping the spacing. Serve poured with sweet cream or smooth cottage cheese.

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Jagodzianki – Polish Sweet Buns with blueberries or bilberries

BY TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Jagodzianki are traditional polish sweet buns filled with blueberries . They are often topped with a sweet crumbs that works perfectly with taste of a bit sour blueberries.

METHOD Remove the yeast from the fridge earlier so it warms up. Crumble the yeast and put into a cup, add half of warm milk, 1 teaspoon of sugar and 2 teaspoons of flour.

Mix, cover with a cloth and leave for about 10-15 minutes in a warm place to rise (the cup can be put in very hot water to facilitate yeast development). Whip the egg and yolks with fine sugar into a fluffy mass. Sift flour into a large bowl, add yeast, the rest of warm milk, egg and sugar mass and butter, earlier melted and cooled. Thoroughly knead flexible and smooth dough (for about 15 minutes until it stops sticking to the hand). Cover it with a cloth and leave in a warm place to rise for about 1 and 1/2 hours. Put the dough on the pastry board, knead for about a minute getting rid of air bubbles, form a ball and divide it into 16 equal parts. Flatten the first piece of dough in your Hands to flatten it, put 3 teaspoons of berries, carefully stick the edges of the dough as for the dumplings, taking care not to put any flour in the place of the sticking. Then form a neat roll in your hands. Put it down on a large baking tray lined with baking paper. Repeat with the rest of the dough. Place the rolls on the baking tray with spacing. You will need 2 trays, 8 rolls on each.

Set aside for about 30 minutes. Adjust the oven to 180°C (heating up and down without air circulation). Brush the top of the first batch of rolls with egg yolk mixed with milk; put them in the oven and bake for about 16-18 minutes until golden. The blueberry rolls are supposed to be in the middle part of the oven. Bake the second part of the buns.

Add some frosting or sprinkle with powdered sugar.

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Strawberry Dumplings (Pierogi)

BY TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Another version of a sweet pierogi, strawberry dumplings are a tasty way to enjoy summer’s harvest!

METHOD Prepare the dough for dumplings. In a larger pot, boil water without adding salt. Put the dough on the pastry board and knead for about 1 minute, then divide into 3-4 parts and roll out each part thinly (around 2-3 mm), if necessary, sprinkle the pastry table and roller with flour. Cut small strawberries into halves, larger on quarters. They can also be mixed with a spoon of potato starch.

With a small glass, cut the dough rings, put a piece of strawberry in the center. Fold the dough ring in half and stick the edges of the dumpling carefully. Place them on the table or on the countertop.

As the water starts boiling, put the first batch of dumplings into the pot (about 15 pieces). After re-boiling, reduce the heat to medium and cook the dumplings until the dough is soft, for about 2.5 minutes counting from the time they come to the surface of the water. Remove with a slotted spoon and place on plates. Serve with sweetened sour cream or yoghurt.

Dumplings dough: Sift flour into a bowl, add salt. Put some butter into boiled water, start adding flour into it, stirring with a spoon, not very thoroughly. Add an egg and mix all ingredients together, kneed smooth dough. Put the dough on the counter topped with flour and knead for 7-8 minutes. Wrap in foil and leave for about 30 minutes. Divide the dough into 4 parts and roll it out to a thin  sheet (approx. 2-3 mm), sprinkling the dough with flour if necessary. With a small glass, cut out the rings, stretch them a bit in your fingers, then put on the middle one spoonful of stuffing. Fold in half and stick the edges carefully, arrange the dumplings on the board.

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good night from Tatra Mountains photo Bartłomiej Jurecki www.jurecki.com

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