Travel Love Poland Magazine - March 2019

MARCH– JUNE 2019 | VOL 1 | ISSUE 7 ISSN 2515-8503

travel.lovePoland

through the lens

spring in Poland EXPERIENCE

Spring is an ideal time of year to take a trip that you will remember forever. Always beautiful – the Biebrza River is the most beautiful now; shiny like diamonds, silvered pools, almost to the horizon, where only the clumps of birches and alder thickets protrude above the water.

Malgorzata Pawelczyk WĘDRÓWKI WIATREM PODSZYTE

LOVEPOLAND.ORG

media partner witkacy theatre in Zakopane www.witkacy.pl

"Life makes most sense at the height of nonsense" Witkacy theatre is one of the most cherished theatres in Poland.

It was founded in 1984 in tribute to a Zakopane legend, Stanislaw Ignacy Witkiewicz.

VOLUME 1 ISSUE 7

from the editor

Dear Readers, And so, the long-awaited spring has come. This season in Poland can be described using the old saying 'Ne'er cast a clout till May be out'. Spring is the time when nature awakens to life and thousands of birds visit Poland. Małgorzata Pawelczyk will talk about it in her story about the Biebrza and Narew rivers. In this issue, we would like to invite you to the region, which is maybe less known, but offering great rest in silence, combined with the opportunity to learn about the Polish tradition and culture, i.e. Kurpie. Bogdan Białczak will guide us around. By the way, if you choose a slightly different route, coming to Poland by car, maybe it is worth visiting the cross-border city of Szczecin? Damian Róż invites you there. For history lovers, we recommend the conversations with Radosław Sikora (a historian and an expert in Polish Hussars) and Marek Kalasiński – a photographer. Also visit, with our Warsaw Tour Guide Irek Szajba, the Royal Castle in Warsaw. After that take a look at Poland from above, if only to see Kraków from a less known perspective, or to visit less-known places, nevertheless attractive and related to the history of Poland – all this in the conversation with Radosław Kowal. You will also visit, guided by Mikołaj Gospodarek, the Bears' Cave. In this issue, you will also find lots of cultural information and some related to Polish traditions, shown e.g. in the photographs by Łukasz Sowiński.

Happy Easter! artur tomasz tureczek Editor-in-Chief Travel.LovePoland

Contributors to this issue: Bogdan Bialczak, Mikołaj Gospodarek, Marek Kalisiński, Radosław Kowal, Małgorzata Pawelczyk, Damian Róż, Irek Szajba, Radosław Sikora, Łukasz Sowiński, Monika Wiśniewska, Dariusz Sirko and Ledy Mikeladze.

Additionally: thanks to Znak Publishing House and Paulina Skipirzepa director of Communication and Marketing Warsztaty Kultury w Lublinie for cooperation on this issue.

As always: our special BIG thanks to Kasia Śpiewankiewicz – graphic editor @britanniaweb.co.uk for your patience and support. Thank You. If you would like to support or cooperate with our magazine please contact us via: info@lovepoland.org

TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND online magazine published by love Poland ltd Registered office address: 178 Mitcham Road, London, England, SW17 9NJ Company number 10956488 Company registered in England and Wales. British Library ISSN 2515-8503 Copyrights by love Poland ltd and/ or authors of photographs and texts as indicated. All photographs and texts are published under the exclusive permission granted to travel.lovePoland Magazine by their authors. Please do not copy or publish without authorisation.

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T R A V E L . L O V E P O L A N D

M A G A Z I N E

VOL 1. ISSUE 7 MARCH -JUNE 2019

CONTENTS Cities of Amber 0 5

Szczecin Damian Róż DR Foto 1 2

From above Ciap Dron Radosław Kowal 3 0

Kurpie region Bogdan Białczak 4 0

7 4

Two Rivers Małgorzata Pawelczyk

26 28 54 60 64 68 72 88 90 98 112 114 116 118 120

Szczecin Philharmonic Polish Girl: Monika Wiśniewska Bears' Cave: Mikołaj Gospodarek Art: Władysław Hasior Zakopane Night of Culture: Lublin Festival Warsaw Travel Guide: Irek Szajba The Pocket History Of Poland Dancing Cranes Husaria: Radosław Sikora Picture the past: Marek Kalisiński Tradition: Pentecost by Łukasz Sowiński Painting on the glass from Orawa Natural Dyed Eggs with Herb Patterns EASTER Table: Żurek Events

photo on the front cover: Szczecin - Damian Róż DR Foto

C O L L E C T I O N S :

A M B E R

Gdańsk & Kraków

photo: lovePoland archive

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photo: lovePoland archive

Baltic Amber source: www.ambermuseum.eu

photo: lovePoland archive

photo: M. Ciszewski polska.pl

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Baltic Amber (succinite) – a fascinating stone, which is very strongly associated with Poland – is a fossilised conifer resin. The fascinating thing about it is that although it was created over 40 million years ago, it is still "alive", namely the hardening processes are still happening to it.

Let's not be surprised when our amber becomes darker over time, and gets deeper and more expressive.

It has always been deemed a magic stone, human friendly, and has served not only decorative purposes, but has also been used for healing.

Till this day the belief that amber cures many diseases, mainly thyroid and of the respiratory tract, as well as stabilising and rebuilding the natural electrostatic field, disturbed by ubiquitous computers.

Baltic Amber is a highly valued and desired decorative stone. Its popularity bloomed in the times of the Roman Empire, where Roman merchants used to travel around Europe looking for sources of the raw material, and the Southern civilisations were connected with the Barbarian North by the famous Amber Route.

For centuries, this highly valued and appreciated stone, mostly at magnate's estates, it showed their wealth and power. Their huge demand for amber products in 16th and 18th century contributed to the development of amber craft, with the biggest centres in Gdańsk and Konigsberg. The Amber Chamber – the most famous piece of amber art of all times, which has been arousing treasure hunters' imagination since the end of the World War II, was also created at that time.

Today, the two old traditions are continued in a big, though contemporary, style. There are a few hundred workshops and plants, which supply shops and galleries all over the world with amber, which are located in Gdańsk and the Pomeranian region. Many smaller workshops are also located in other parts of Poland, and they effectively contribute to building the "amber" image. Most people associate with amber stones, which can be found on the sandy beaches. However, what is in the present moment we find them, only a small percentage of the world's extraction amber. Mainly Baltic amber is deposited underground. The world's largest deposits are located in Kaliningrad, in Ukraine and in Polish in the Chlapowo area. The oldest way of acquiring amber is catching it with special network mounted on the rim. Fishers dressed in long rubber pants gather what hides Baltic bottom. On the shore searching fished treasures hoping that you will find a golden stone.

Amber deposited under the ground is excavated by means of hydraulic or cast method. Hydraulic method consists in that in the region extraction enclosure is formed, the hole with which we extract amber pressurised water is injected, under pressure amber with spoil is raised up. It all catches up to the network.

Then, to separate amber from the rest rinsing it in water with salt using density differences amber floats, the rest of the sinking.

The essence of the method is cast image overlay on the natural residual amber and washing sieve different density of the extracted ore. It was from the mines come from the largest amounts of amber.

The Kaliningrad (Sambia) amber ~ 50m below the surface and is mined opencast. In the area of Chłapowo is deposited much deeper ~ 150m below the surface.

Despite the fact that in Poland resources are 6 times more than in Sambia, at the moment there is no possibility of their extraction.

A popular Polish legend says that amber nuggets are the debris of the sea goddess Jurata's palace.

Her magnificent underwater residence, made entirely of amber, was shattered to pieces by the mighty god Perkun when he found out she was having an affair with a fisherman.

On the Trail of Polish Fairy Tales.

A standard tourist trip through Poland will typically include several attractions tied with quaint little legends, but most visitors miss out on the background stories.

In order to impress fellow travellers and make the most out of these sites, it is worth getting acquainted with the charmingly unconventional tales of Polish folklore.

"For a year, Queen Jurata had been coming to the shore every evening to meet with her lover above the water; but when Perkun found out about this, he was infuriated that the goddess had dared fall in love with a mortal.

One time when she returned to her palace, he sent a lightning bolt from the sky which split the tides and hit the queen's residence, killing her and shattering her amber palace into little pieces".

Lucjan Siemieński, Polish, Ruthenian and Lithuanian Legends and Tales, 1845.

In its ‘golden age’, amber gained such renown that even the Polish king Sigismund III Vasa (Zygmunt III Waza) is said to have crafted objects out of it. A baseless amber cup attributed to him, embellished with lion heads, is part of the collection of the Wawel Royal Castle State Art Collection in Kraków.

Another noted piece is the 17th-century portable altar by the master artisan Michał Redlin, believed to have been the field altar of the Polish warrior-king Jan III Sobieski. Thanks to his unparalleled skill, and peoples love of amber, Redlin was so successful, that he had trouble releasing all the orders he was receiving (including pieces for the royal court of Sweden).

Eventually, the popularity of amber prompted the appearance of new workshops outside of Gdańsk, in nearby towns like Elbląg and Słupsk.

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photo: photo: M. Ciszewski polska.pl

photo: M. Ciszewski polska.pl

GDAŃSK

ul. Długa 46/47 80-831 Gdańsk www.muzeumgdansk.pl

One of the youngest museums in Gdańsk which opened its doors in June 2006. Its seat is a historic, unique on a European scale, Gothic-Renaissance Fore Gate Complex of Długa Street. It is located in the centre of the crossroads of the city's tourist routes. It consists of three parts: Prison Tower, a wall called Neck with Prison House and Torture Chamber. Once it was a key element of the fortifications of medieval Gdańsk.

The Amber Museum presents the history of amber creation, its properties, acquisition and processing throughout history – from the earliest times to the present. The first exhibition hall contains a unique collection of natural specimens – a priceless collection of natural amber forms, including huge lumps, animal and plant inclusions, sophisticated colour varieties and 08 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

photo: photo: M. Ciszewski polska.pl

various fossil resins occurring in the world. Visiting the next halls, we will see remarkable monuments of early art – Neolithic amber art items, monuments from Roman times and the early Middle Ages. However, the most valuable and most beautiful objects come from the "golden age" of the development of Gdańsk, when the city was one of the most important centres of amber craft. In the Amber Museum, you can admire many examples of great pieces of early art, such as – cabins, caskets, altars, medallions, cutlery, flirt games. It is also pretty interesting to see contemporary handicraft products and modern jewellery by outstanding designers shown in an avantgarde arrangement with the use of multimedia. Thanks to them, you can find yourself in the middle of an amber forest, feel the scent of amber or be a witness of a fashion show with amber jewellery.

photo: press materials www.ambermuseum.eu

photo: press materials www.ambermuseum.eu

KRAKÓW

ul. Świętego Jana 2 31-018 Kraków www.ambermuseum.eu

The Amber Museum is a unique place, created as a result of the passion of Tomasz Mikołajczyk, the owner and originator of the place. Its location in Cracow is nonincidental: after Gdańsk, called the World Capital of Amber, Cracow is the city most strongly associated with amber, the stone considered to be typically Polish.

Though there are many "amber" places in Cracow, the Amber Museum will undoubtedly soon become the most important one. Why? Because the unique exhibits gathered there, showing the natural beauty of the Baltic amber, which confirm its uniqueness, and provide valuable knowledge about its creation and the history of its treatment. The exhibits make one sensitive to the beauty of amber, and the variety of its forms and shades. They also remind us why so many people in the world think that amber is the most beautiful of all the stones in the world.

photo: press materials www.ambermuseum.eu

All of that makes the Amber Museum a unique place, which you want to come back to. Apart from the permanent exhibition called "Its Beauty and History", prepared by the Earth Museum in Warsaw, we would like to invite everyone to visit temporary exhibitions (old and contemporary art) as well as meetings with interesting people (authors of books on amber, designers, craftsmen, and artists). With amber product sellers in mind, we are planning to launch professional courses and training sessions, and for kids and students we are preparing a programme of museum lessons, tailored to their needs.

The Museum is not only running educational and promotional activities. At the shop you can get to know and purchase traditional, as well as modern, jewellery and usable art made of amber. The history and contemporary story of this resin, fossilised 40 million years ago, will be presented in the reading room, where interesting publications have been collected. An ideal place to thoroughly investigate the secrets of amber featured in professional literature will be the café garden.

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Szczecin the western destination an interview with Damian Róż DR Foto.

We are talking to Damian Róż, a photographer of mainly the urban landscape of Szczecin and the author of the DR Foto website. tLP. Tell us, please, whether you are a Szczeciner because you were born here or by choice, bv chance or just from the bottom of your heart?

DR. Because I was born here and because it is where my heart belongs. Simply put. I fell in love with this city thanks to photography. When I went to take pictures, I got to know it again. I began to visit various unusual places that I had no idea about before. My photographing coincided with rapid city development – Szczecin returned to the river, is constantly changing, encouraging young people to live here.

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tLP. Szczecin becomes slowly one of the most recognizable Polish cities among foreign tourists. However, it is still outside the main tourist routes for most of them.

What do you think – what is the reason for that? Is there a chance to change the situation somehow?

DR. I do not quite agree with this. Szczecin is located on the main North-South and East-West routes. Your opinion is somewhat in the spirit of "the grass is always greener on the other side". Szczecin has never been as strongly promoted as the Tri-City, which is very similar in its location.

Historically, our city was more industrial than tourist and maybe that is why we are still not discovered as a tourist destination.

tLP. It is said that Szczecin is full of greenery and water.

In urban parks and gardens you can find many rare species of trees and shrubs, among others, the richness of various magnolias, which bloom beautifully in the spring. Not only the Odra and the Regalica but also a lot of smaller rivers flow through the city. Within the city borders there is also Dąbie Lake. It seems that it is a perfect place for someone who wants to see something beautiful?

DR. It is true; for a wildlife admirer, this is the perfect place. It is surrounded by greenery and water, 2/3 of the city is after all our inner sea – Lake Dąbie and there are three forests around. In addition, there are lots of green areas in the city itself. It's an amazing experience – get on the tram and go to Śródodrze – 10 minutes from the center – to hunt for grey herons with the camera.

We have the Kasprowicz Park, also in the center of Szczecin – extremely popular green area with increasingly fashionable, also among tourists and photographers, spring carpets of crocuses. In the heart of the park, the rose garden is hidden – with nearly 100 species of these flowers – an extremely charming and photogenic place. tLP. We would like you to show us around your favourite places in Szczecin – just like you show your favourite guests. Where would you take us? Probably to the Chrobry Embankment (Wały Chrobrego)? Maybe to the boulevards? Where else and why?

DR. If I am not supposed to talk about boulevards, I will talk about the cranes , "Cranesaurs"that are situated there. In my opinion, the restored, pre-war port cranes are now a must-visit for every tourist. Not only because they are beautiful in themselves, and recently interestingly illuminated. From their foothills you can admire the leftbank part of Szczecin. You will be surprised, but I would also take you to the cemetery. Szczecin's Central Cemetery is one of the largest necropolis in the world and... a beautiful park, always visited by Szczecin residents and our guests at any time of the year. Szczecin can be visited in several ways, for example – with the focus on Szczecin's greenery and water. With a trip to the Szmaragdowe lake, which has an extremely interesting history – from the limestone mine to the obligatory tourist point. From here, there is one of the most interesting panoramas of the city. Another route is connected with the history and architecture of the city – with the necessary water expedition to the "Szczecin Venice",

the entrance to the tower of our Cathedral with great panorama of Szczecin and the Pomeranian Dukes' Castle. It is worth visiting the Art Nouveau quarters of Śródmieście, which from a bird's eye view look like the arrangement of stars in the Orion belt. In addition, everyone who was in Paris would see the similarity of the road system to the one in the centre of the French capital. No wonder, since it was designed by the same architect.

Year by year, the White Eagle Square is regaining more and more of its former glow, along with the most interesting building there – the restored Palace under the Globe, now the seat of the Academy of Art. This is also a characteristic feature of recent years.

Many places are rediscovered thanks to numerous renovations and revitalisation of subsequent historical buildings and squares. A completely different experience is a trip under the slogan of modern architecture with an obligatory visit to one of the most beautiful public buildings in Europe – the new seat of the Szczecin Philharmonic Orchestra. The crystal-white construction won in 2016 the architectural Nobel prize – Mies van der Rohe's Award. Right next to it, there is the Dialogue Centre "Przełomy", awarded almost a year later, almost completely "sunk" in the square. I am waiting to add to this list the office and hotel complex at the Port Gate – Posejdon, which is currently being built or the Hanza Tower designed to rise above the city center by American architects. Both of them have an ambition to become the symbols of Szczecin. These are just a few places that are worth visiting in my city. I would have to fill your entire magazine to describe all things worth visiting. tLP. How do you approach the photographed topic?

What are you looking for? Is there anything specific that you would like to convey to your viewer? Do you want to tell a story? Szczecin has not only one to be told...

DR. I started photographing a little bit "against the current". Until recently, even residents of Szczecin claimed that it is ugly here and it is not worth taking pictures here. I discover Szczecin which is beautiful, unusual and often unknown. At least unrecognisable in the light in which I capture it. It happens that even native Szczeciners ask me where the place that I photographed is, because they were not there, or simply did not see its beauty. I want to show with my

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photographs that there are many places worth seeing in Szczecin. Worth stopping in everyday rush and appreciating what we have around us. The other ambition is to try to show life in the city. In Szczecin, life is good, more and more is happening here. Hence, you can often see in my photos how people rest here, how they spend their free time, or participate in spectacular events like the Rally of Great Sailing Ships, Sea Days, or the fabulously colorful Festival of Fireworks, or Watershow. tLP. You take photos of famous places in Szczecin; places that have already been photographed by many.

What do you look for in these photographs? Perhaps someone could sometimes call them 'postcard' shots – does it bother you? Do you think that the subject / place can be captured in such a way that it would arouse interest or admiration – even if it is already well known?

DR. I often take pictures of well-known, popular places, but I want to show them in a different way. I photograph them at very specific time – I choose the golden and blue hour. These moments let us release a little magic,

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sometimes a fairy-tale character of the places. My photography has lots of shades and colours. I also try to look for shots that, if they even refer to known places, have not yet been shown. The term "postcard" does not bother me. The very nature of my photography is supposed to show the beauty of the city, hence the popcultural style that will be catchy for wider audience.

For me, photography is a detachment from reality, a way to rest from the problems of everyday life. It's like immersing in another world. I am also motivated by the fact that some of the residents of Szczecin, especially those who left the city, write to me asking how they could keep this piece of Szczecin for them. Especially if they are far away or they may not come back.

In addition to photographs of the city and landscape, I also deal with interior and architecture photography and I would like to develop and improve my skills in these areas. I would also like to face portrait photography and its secrets. The city consists of people and they often appear in the pictures. They are rarely in the center of my attention. I think, however, that the time is coming for a more intimate photos, focusing on a human being.

SZCZECIN GET TO KNOW THE SITES PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAMIAN RÓŻ DR FOTO.

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Chrobry Embankment PHOTOGRAPHY by Damian Róż DR Foto.

Chrobry Embankment (ger. Hakenterrasse) is one of the most beautiful observation terraces in Europe and the Szczecin's Landmark. You can watch there a vast panorama of the Oder River and port. It is 500 meters long and 19 meters above river's bank.

In 1873 city's authorities decided to demolish all of the Szczecin's fortifications. Due to the contribution of the overmayor of Szczecin, Hermann Haken, a new construction was formed on the site of former Leopold Fort. It is a complex of the three buildings: from the South – Marine University, the building of the National Museum together with the Modern Theater and the Provincial Office. In front of the Museum you can find a statue of Hercules fighting with centaur and wide stairs from the leading to the Oder River, where cruise ships await. source: www.szczecin.eu

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SZCZECIN GET TO KNOW THE SITES PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAMIAN RÓŻ DR FOTO.

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SZCZECIN GET TO KNOW THE SITES PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAMIAN RÓŻ DR FOTO.

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SZCZECIN GET TO KNOW THE SITES PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAMIAN RÓŻ DR FOTO.

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Szczecin

DAMIAN RÓŻ DR FOTO www.facebook.com/drozfoto/

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TOP 6 IN SZCZECIN www.szczecin.eu/en/odwiedz_szczecin/the_szczecin_tourist_card

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Pomeranian Dukes' Castle Anyone entering Szczecin by bridges over the Oder River can see the towering redbrick gothic Cathedral and an elegant, pale silhouette of a Renaissance castle with green towers, which used to be the seat of the dukes of the Griffins dynasty who ruled the Duchy of Pomerania. The Pomeranian Dukes’ Castle has five wings and two courtyards.

The National Museum in Szczecin is the largest cultural institution in Western Pomerania – divided classic museum, holding the custody of over 150 thousand objects, among which are the works of ancient and contemporary art, archaeological sites, ethnographic, numismatic and precious. Museum, focused his interest primarily on the themes of the Pomeranian and Baltic, contributing to regional and national identity in Western Pomerania.

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Chrobry Embankment The Embankment is one of the most beautiful observation terraces in Europe and the Szczecin’ s Landmark. You can watch there a vast panorama of the Oder River and port. It is 500 meters long and 19 meters above river's bank. In front of the National Museum cruise ships await.

At the foot there is a fountain ornamented with figures of Jan z Kolna.

Szczecin Philharmonic Have you ever seen an iceberg in the city center? If not, you must see the new premises of Szczecin Philharmonic which majestically emerges from urban buildings and pervasive greenery. Its metal and glass facade supplemented with light illuminations catch the eye of each person who comes nearby. The building was designed by catalan architects from Barozzi Veiga from Barcelona and immediately has become the icon of our city.

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Szczecin Goods "Stettiner Waren" Artisans who want to produce original “Stettiner Waren Szczecin goods“ can now aspire for the certificate and seal. The characteristic white ceramics have the opportunity to again become the showcase of our region.

The originals of Szczecin's white ceramics are on display in the National Museum building in the Chrobry Embankment.

Underground Routes.

It is the biggest civilian shelter in today’ s Poland.

Built just before the WW II, located under the main railway station and it is 5 floors deep. It was built with reinforced concrete and it could accommodate 5 thousand people. After being taken over by the Poles, it was adopted for anti-nuclear shelter. Nowadays, visitors have 2 trails to choose: WW II or Cold War. We suggest wearing hot sweater because the temperature is only 12 Centigrade whole year long.

The Szczecin Tourist Card Select one of two versions: 24h (15zł) od 72h (25zł) and discover the cheaper way of sightseeing.

You can buy the Card in: • every tourist information in Szczecin • Szczecin Manufacture on Chrobry Boulevard • via free "Visit Szczecin" app for sightseeing available on Android and iOS The Szczecin Tourist Card means: • traveling with public transport for free • 50% discounts in all museums • discount tickets for city's attractions, such as rope park, civil shelter or ferry trips • discounts in pubs, cafes, restaurants, hotels • discounts for kayak rentals and kayak trips • discount tickets for exhibitions in the Ducal Castle 21 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

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Chrobry Embankment (Wały Chrobrego) is located north of the Pomeranian Duke's Castle, along the Odra River. It was built in the beginning of the 19th century and then named Hakenterrasse, after the then major of Szczecin Herman Haken. After World War II it was renamed after Boleslaw Chrobry, the first king of Poland.

In summer the Chrobry Embankment is a popular place to relax and enjoy the view on the Odra River and the harbour cranes on the horizon.

KARŁOWICZ PHILHARMONIC SZCZECIN source: www.filharmonia.szczecin.pl

The idea to build a new hall for the Philharmonic in the place where the old Concert Hall (Konzerthaus) used to be located came about in 2004. The musicians needed larger and more modern space as the institution had grown out of the then occupied wing of the City Hall.

The citizens of Szczecin saw the placing of the new concert hall at the intersection of Małopolska and Matejki streets as having symbolic importance to the musical history of the town. Three years later a contest to present the idea of a new Philharmonic was opened.

From among the offers of forty four studios from all around the world, the jury chose the project designed

by Barozzi/Veiga studio from Barcelona. The ice-like shape of the building was hailed the new icon of the city already in the first stage of the works, and the Internet portal www.bryla.pl recognised it as one of the most interesting investments in the country. The project also won the first prize in the prestigious Eurobuild Awards 2014 contest as Architectural Design of the Year.

The architects did their best to take into consideration the context of the project.

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The building stands out from its surroundings thanks to its bold lines and lightness but also forms a coherent whole with the neo-gothic buildings around.

The interior of the Philharmonic hides more than 12 000 square metres of space in four storeys, which include a symphonic hall, a chamber hall, rehearsal halls, music shop, cafe, spacious foyer, artists’ dressing rooms, storage rooms for instruments and offices.

The symphonic hall, also known as the Sun Hall, may accommodate nearly 1000 people. The magnificent acoustics of the Sun Hall originates from special geometry of the walls and ceiling, developed by the architects together with Dr. Higini Arau, a specialist in architectural acoustics from Barcelona. All parameters of the symphonic hall (strength, uniformity of sound, delay and lateral energy fractions) produce an effect comparable to the model of such undertakings – the concert hall Musikverein in Vienna. In the chamber hall, designed for 192 people – the reverberation time is compliant with the project to the hundredth of a second.

This is why this hall is known as the “acoustical gem”.

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POLISH GIRL MONIKA WIŚNIEWSKA TEN MINUTES INTERVIEW tLP. Who is Monika?

Monika is just a Polish girl with dreams, hopes and a desire to make a positive change in life, not only her own, but also others. The title of my memoir "Polish Girl In Pursuit of the English Dream’" says exactly that.

I am no different to anyone else on the planet as we all want to live life to the fullest in love peace and happiness.

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My life journey, as that’s how I call my 13 years period in England which I described in my book, turned out to be the journey to a profound and deep self-discovery which I shared with the readers. I learnt how to show love and appreciation to myself, life and the whole Universe. I shared my incredible experience of spiritual awakening and feeling connected to everything that surrounds me, nature, animals and people. Therefore, my life story and adventures in a foreign country are not only for Polish people. It is for anyone who is ready to embark on the journey to self-discovery, together with me. I was not only brave enough to share my most intimate details of my life, including love, life, but also what I had learnt from each and single of them in hope that the readers would be inspired to look at their own lives and perhaps do the same. Nobody reads my memoir for me. They read it for themselves. Because it’'s not about what I experienced in England but it’'s about what the readers can get out of my story for themselves. My book is a mirror which reflects back to the reader what already resides in his or her heart and soul. It is a powerful, emotional experience for those who are in touch with their feelings and inner-self.

I think the world needs to turn some of the attention inwards as it is within that we can heal our wounded inner-child, emotional baggage and trauma and it is within that we can find out who we truly are and what our life purpose is. To live life happily as loving human beings. My message for everyone reading my story is that many of our life problems comes from the lack of love but not the lack of love from a man or a woman, as they cannot fill the empty void we feel for ourselves, but love for ourselves.

? a book

tLP. Why did you decide to leave Poland and move to England?

As the title of my memoir says, I had always had that English Dream, the dream to live and work in England. I had learnt the first English words from the American puppet show when I was about seven and I had always had passion for learning the English language, culture and history. Hence, I studied to be an English teacher and I graduated with the Bachelor’s Degree before finishing my Master's Degree. I started to teach English in a special needs school but when my friend, who had gone to England to work as a cabin crew member, invited me for Christmas, I knew it was my only chance.

I went to England with just one bag with clothes and a 100 pounds in my pocket and I was determined to find a job and stay. tLP. How did you find life in other country?

By sharing my true immigrant story, I hope I have shown the world how difficult it can be to start a new life in a foreign country and even if one has a Master’s Degree and speaks the language. When you are alone and have to count on help from complete strangers, worry about having some bread to eat the next day, somewhere to sleep and having a job, it’s a true test of perseverance. I wanted to give up on my ‘dream life in England’ many, many times but I never did. I cried, I prayed, I believed and I moved forward and I never gave up. Hence my story is a story which shows that no matter what challenges, problems and heartbreaks one can experience in life, it is about picking yourself up and keep going. We all encounter challenges and problems in life and we all have a choice how to react to them.

I ended up having a very comfortable life moving up the career ladder with very good jobs, salaries and recognition for my achievements. But my story is much more than that, I described how all my relationships in pursuit of love unfolded and how they moved me closer to my self-discovery. This was the most important part of my life. Not finding a good job. It was about finding love, peace and happiness. And it wasn't about finding

it in another country. It was about winding it where it already could be found. In me. And that’'s what I shared with the readers. tLP. What lead you to write and publish a very personal book about your experience?

There were a couple of reasons. One was the Brexit vote in 2016 which really made me think about my life in England and I started to ask myself some very important questions about my existence in a foreign country... And another one was more personal and emotional. I lost someone very dear to me and this heartbreak made me feel so bad that I knew I needed to write it all down and share my story or my head would have exploded. tLP. People say that your book is very emotional and ‘open’, is that the case and why? Who should read it?

It is very emotional because I shared all of my emotions in there from the most wonderful, happy ones to the most painful ones. All emotions are for us to experience in this lifetime, even the bad ones, and I happened to be able to describe them in such a way that the readers feel they are part of my journey, some say they had this 3D effect, felt they were there in all the different locations around Europe and as a result they experienced them too. Life is a rollercoaster of emotions and we never stay the same, one day we are excited and happy, the next day we can be depressed and sad. The only way to make our lives more balanced is to try to control our emotions by the thoughts helping us feel more at peace. Some readers say they can feel my soul speaking to their soul. I think it’s a very powerful thing to be able to write my book in such a way. Because it truly is written from my heart and soul to your heart and soul.

Not many authors would have such courage to share their life in such an incredible way. I was and I am happy that readers appreciate it and love the way I wrote it. tLP. Where the book can be purchased?

Both the English version "Polish Girl In Pursuit of the English Dream’" and the Polish version "Polska Dziewczyna W Pogoni Za Angielskim Snem’" can be bought directly from me with a dedication on my Facebook page: Monika Wiśniewska Author www.facebook.com/monikawisniewskaauthor and website: www.monikawisniewskaauthor.com The English version is also available via major online retailers like Amazon, Kobo, Barnes and Noble. It is also possible to purchase them in some bookstores.

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ELPOEP

It is only when we fill our hearts with unconditional self-love that we can truly embrace the best in life, share it with others and never feel like we don’t have enough and stop expecting it coming from others first. ‘If you love me, I will love you too’ most people think and I thought that way too. What I discovered during my spiritual transformation was that I had already had enough love within me, for myself and I didn’t need to feel lonely, depressed and sad all the time when, for example, I was single. My whole life I was looking for love and peace in another human being until I had finally found it within me. It has been the most transformational experience of my life and I have never been the same person.

POLAND FROM

ABOVE

PLACES OF POLAND FROM ABOVE CIAP DRON PHOTOS and text: Radosław Kowal www.facebook.com/CiapDron/

My adventure with photography began by accident. I have always been attracted by nice pictures of nature, or architecture, macro, portraits, etc.

One day before the holidays and exactly about 3 years ago, I decided with my wife that we would buy a drone for our child. We were trying to pick the best offer but it was hard to decide. Finally, we chose a toy that appealed to me more than to the child. This is how the adventure with the drones and photography began. Shortly thereafter, I decided to take a course and pass a state exam for the operator of an unmanned ship. The qualification certificate gave me the opportunity to fly where I couldn’t fly before, without qualifications. I have never thought that I would get so much involved in flying!

Photos and videos taken with the drone have become my great passion. Wherever I go, I try to take it with me; to all the places where you can fly. I noticed that I have a weakness for old architecture and, above all, for castles.

As soon as there is some free time e.g. during the weekend and the weather conditions are promising, I go to the open air. As you know, the wonderful conditions for photography can be found in the morning, just before sunrise or when the sun is just rising. In the summer, taking photos at sunrise requires a lot of sacrifice and self-denial. Getting up at three or four in the morning at the weekend is not a pleasure. After a week of hard work, a man would want to get finally some good sleep, but not me. Morning light, fog, can reward the early morning waking up with a beautiful photo. I usually take photos in Krakow, where I have lived for 20 years, but I also venture further to other cities, 30 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

interesting places. My dream is to devote myself to photography, travel around the world and take beautiful photos in amazing places. Establish cooperation with someone who needs a good drone operator from the world of film, advertising.

My current job in the electrical warehouse as a sales representative does not give me as much happiness and joy as flying and taking pictures. I think I'm a little crazy about this, a piece of folly. Everyone should probably have their passion and something to be interested in. My current goal is to buy a new drone that has variable optics on the camera.

It would give you the opportunity to take better, different photos than now even in the same places. At the end of the year, I have a plan to print the calendar. Of course, it will be printed in a small amount and hence it will not be cheap.

I believe, however, that I will find people who may want to have one or give it to someone as a gift.

Favourite places? Of course, Kraków Market Square, Wawel Castle, Tyniec Abbey, Nowa Huta Bridge, Kościuszko Mound, etc. In these places I took my first best photos, which were admired by friends and them by the friend of my friends.

That's what pushed me to set up a ciap-dron site on FB where I publish my photographs and films. Looking through my photos, you can see that I love castles at any time of the year, whether in summer or spring and autumn. My second home, the place where I come from, is Przemyśl. A beautiful city in Sub-Carpathian region. I also have fans from this area because I have often taken photos in Przemyśl. They really liked my view of the city from the drone. Whenever I'm there, I'm snapping something.

PHOTOS and text: Radosław Kowal www.facebook.com/CiapDron/

Wawel Castle Wawel Castle: only for tourists?

In fact, there are plenty of them throughout the year, one may say it is constantly besieged. Even if the visitors comes to Kraków in a bad weather, they hardly ever give up and decide not to see the Castle. It makes an impression, but not only on tourists. Residents of Krakow can also be found frequently in the Wawel area or on the boulevards.

Walking with children or running, or riding bicycles, roller skating, etc.

I often walk with my dog nearby and I always enjoy the view even though it has not changed for years. The birds probably also liked the area around the Vistula bend at the foot of the Castle. The beautiful building also attracts Krakow artists: painters and photographers, architecture lovers and historians. It is undoubtedly the place to which you want to come back, it has some magic in it.

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PHOTOS and text: Radosław Kowal www.facebook.com/CiapDron/

Kraków Krakow. What is Krakow for me?

This is a city in which I have wanted to live for a long time and this dream has come true. Already during the elementary school, primary school and secondary school finished and I had to go somewhere to study... where? Of course, to Kraków!

This is how my adventure with Kraków, as an AGH student, began. At the end of my studies, I met my wife – a Cracovian – and we are together until now.

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We created a family with our beloved son who is already 11 years old. This is the city of my family's present residence. If you look at Kraków in terms of photography, there is still a lot to do, still many interesting photos wait to be taken.

Some monuments, that haven't been photographed so far an as well as new buildings, which now are built rapidly all over the city pt other interesting places. In Krakow you can meet a lot of interesting people: well-known actors, artists and less known people with passion, for example me :)

artists and less

PHOTOS and text: Radosław Kowal www.facebook.com/CiapDron/

I've lived here half of my life and I would not like to live in another city.

At any time of the year, the same places look different, so i it is worth showing up in the same place at least four times a year.

Krakow is of course my place of work, rest, a place where I am always happy to be back from trips (holidays). The photo of the clock shows 4:13am, of course, it was Saturday morning, I remember it pretty well. What normal person flies at this time over the market in Krakow?

Well, maybe some kind of a freak, who cannot sleep. In the early morning, you can meet party people on the market, coming back from pubs and other meeting places. I have always liked it in this city, it is full of life 24/7.

At the weekends, so many people move along the streets, not only in the market square but also in Kazimierz, that there is probably no other so crowded and busy city in Poland.

It has something in it (some kind of magic) which attracted me here and did not let me return to my hometown.

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PHOTOS and text: Radosław Kowal www.facebook.com/CiapDron/

' Wisnicz Wiśnicz: Is it worth to get off the beaten track and travel to see?

Yes, of course ! As soon as the weather and time allow, as much as possible. Already during the week I plan places that I want to photograph. These are not very distant journeys, but I always choose these more or less known. Some places are so interesting because from the bird's eye the view reminds of something else, a shape of a fish, bear, snake or some other form.

All the time I feel like going somewhere, where I have not been yet, where I can take a picture that no one else has taken.

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Then people ask me: where is this beautiful spot ?

Moving along the roads, I often watch out and look for inspiration to shoot here, for the place to stay and take a picture because it can be interesting.

The Wiśnicz Castle is undoubtedly very picturesque and well located.

I love when the sun is low on the horizon, ie during the sunrise or sunset. It the view is accompanied by the fog or fiery sky, I really like it and feel truly glad. You waste a lot of time for travelling, but so what? We only live once, we need to see and experience as much as possible… And if you are also able to capture these in the photos – this is happiness.

PHOTOS and text: Radosław Kowal www.facebook.com/CiapDron/

Ogrodzieniec Ogrodzieniec: Forgotten?

Is it forgotten? Absolutely!!! Whenever I come there, whether to go sightseeing or take pictures, there are always a lot of people. Regardless of the season. Both tourists from Silesia and Lesser Poland as well as from further areas. Even the residents themselves like to take a walk around the castle, see what is happening there. Often, the knights' tournaments of present knights are organised here :), picnics and other events. They attract a lot of audience. Near the castle, an amusement park for children was built, so that not only adults would have fun visiting the castle as

for children it may be sometimes boring. One thing that annoys me personally in this place is a very small number of parking lots (I mean the normal ones free of charge). Residents of the town decided to take advantage of the visitors and earn on parking places. In many private property yards you can park your car, but you have to pay the hosts. Ogrodzieniec is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful castles in the Jura, at least in my opinion.

Although it is a ruin and it lacks a lot to the shapes from before the destruction. However, when you are at the foot of the castle hill, it still makes huge impression.

You my feel like going back in time, to the period when it was still inhabited…

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PHOTOS and text: Radosław Kowal www.facebook.com/CiapDron/

Tyniec Memories, nostalgia, escape, peace...?

Picture of the Abbey in Tyniec – the turrets emerging from the fog are exactly what I love. A few pilgrimages had to be held there to capture it in such conditions. Once, the fog was almost gone, other times it was too high... yet another time there was no sun, etc. There was often something wrong here during my pilgrimages to achieve the goal. I took this picture before work. I got up earlier than usual around five o'clock in the morning and it worked, I managed to take it finally as I wanted. This photography gave me a victory in the photo

36 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

competition. I'm happy with it till now. I remember that when I put this picture on FB it was a great WOW. It can be said that I set a trend among the group of drone operators to fly there in such conditions.

Soon, other similar photos started to show up. It is a pity that this place is very poorly lighted, I would say it isn’t lit at all. If it was, you could take fabulous evening pictures there. Oh!!! and this is a plan, to organise somehow additional lighting there and shoot a fabulous photo.

This place has great potential. Who – if not me, then who will do it? :) I like challenges. I feel inspired already.

PHOTOS and text: Radosław Kowal www.facebook.com/CiapDron/

' Kosciuszko Mound Only the history and panorama...?

I can see Kościuszko Mound almost daily, at least a few times a day. It is quite high and it can be seen in Kraków from a distance. Being on the top, you can see a beautiful panorama of the city. In one side, we can see Błonia of Kraków which is probably the largest European lawn, located in the city. Glancing at the other side, we can see the Wawel, and generally the city while looking west, we may admire the Camaldolese monastery. A popular radio station has its broadcasting point there.

It is hard not to notice antennas and transmitters plates.

There is also a coffee shop where you can let your feet rest after a long walk and treat your thirsty organism with something to drink. Whenever there is a national holiday, or an event important for the country, a big white and red flag is placed there.

Often, flying there, I managed to capture the beautiful sunset or sunrise and another time the mound emerging from the fog. Often, all of Kraków is covered with a white blanket and the mound is over it. Lots of tourists visit this place to see Kraków from above. There is abundance of greenery and numerous alleys around where you can walk and enjoy the singing of birds and the view of vegetation. I will be returning there pretty often.

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Checiny Castle '

Chęciny: Only a symbol of the old power?

The castle in Chęciny, located on the hill, looks beautiful from a distance, while traveling along road No. 7, either towards Warsaw or Kraków. Even when leaving Kielce, you can see far in the distance the towers protruding above the horizon. Due to its shape, I associate it with the Titanic or the big steamer.

The towers in this case resemble huge chimneys.

Around the Castle there is a park, near – an open air museum, so it is a good place to march and move the legs that stiffened during the trip.

Despite the many destructions that the castle underwent over the years, it has been possible to recreate its interesting form, reminiscent of the years of splendour. It attracts tourists as well as me. Someone, who is a little bit into visiting castles, should really pay it a visit – it's worth that.

Tourist Information and Historical Center of Chęciny Commune „Niemczówka” 7 Małogoska Street 26-060 Chęciny, Phone + 48 41 31 51 829, e-mail: informacja@checiny.pl source: www.checiny.pl/asp/en

The construction of the fortress probably began around XIII/XIV century. Around this date the upper part of the castle, comprising of upper courtyard with housing unit and two rounded defensive towers was built. The castle had its own chapel, located by the eastern tower. The castle treasure was being kept in the room above the chapel. It is certain that the castle existed in 1306, when king Władysław Łokietek presented it to the Archbishop of Kraków, Jan Muskata. In following years a dispute on ownership title of then Lesser Poland has been raised between the king and the bishop. As a result of the dispute, after detection of a plot against the royal power, the castle was returned to the king. King Łokietek soon made the royal castle in Chęciny the centre of his political and military power. In 1318 the treasure of the Archdiocese of Gniezno was transferred and hidden inside the castle to prevent it from being captured by Teutonic Knights. The castle played a significant role as a place of concentration of Polish troops departing for Battle of Płowce with the Teutonic Knights in 1331. In the first half of the XIV century the stronghold was enlarged by King Casimir III the Great. Then the lower courtyard was constructed, forming the existing shape of the castle. At that time Chęciny became a residence of the king's second wife Adelaide of Hesse. It was also a residence of Elisabeth of Poland,

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Queen of Hungary, Sophia of Halshany and her son Władysław III of Varna and Italian by origin – Polish Queen Bona Sforza, who departed Poland in 1556. Later it was used for many years as a state prison with main dungeon located underneath the eastern tower. Among imprisoned here were: Michael Küchmeister von Sternberg future Grand Master of the Teutonic Knights, Andrzej Wingold, King Jogaila’s half-brother. The castle briefly regained its former glory due to reconstruction initiated by Stanisław Branicki, Starost of Chęciny. However, in the second half of the 16th century, the castle began to decline. In 1588 the parliament ordered to transfer the castle's inventories to the Chęciny Parish Church. In 1607 the Castle was captured and burned by the Zebrzydowski Rebellion. In 1657 the Castle was again partially destroyed by the Rakoczy troops. During the Swedish Deluge the Castle turned into a ruin and remains in that state to this day.

The ruins of the Castle have been preserved several times.

First major construction works were undertaken in 1877.

Between First and Second World Wars the castle was preserved by then mayor of the city Edmund Padechowicz.

After the Second World War the castle was again preserved and partially reconstructed with middle tower rebuilt. Since then the eastern tower serves as a scenic viewpoint.

emczówka” mail: informacja@checiny.pl

BOGDAN BIAŁCZAK

Kurpie

REGIONS OF POLAND

Kurpie intro by travel.lovePoland Magazine

photo by: Daniel Ejsymont

The Kurpie region is located in the Mazovian Lowland. It consists of two different parts. Kurpie in the area of Pułtusk and the White Forest [Puszcza Biała] and Kurpie from the Green forest [Puszcza Zielona] in the neighbourhood of Ostrołeka, Nowogrów, Kadzidło, Łyse and Myszyniec.

The name of the region originated from the name of shoes, traditionally worn by the inhabitants of those forests, made of linden bast, called ‘kurpsie’. Such shoes were worn off pretty fast so for the long trip, Kurp had to take a few pairs of ‘kurpsie’. The inhabitants of the Kurpie region once called themselves “Puszczaki”, but the villagers from the neighbouring area called them Kurpie.

Biography: Bogdan Białczak Bogdan Białczak is a member of the Ostrołęka Photographic Society, a laureate of many prizes in photo contests, author of several individual exhibitions and participant of many collective exhibitions, organizer of open air photo workshops and photo exhibitions. One of the creators of photographic projects with the Kurpie Association, the Kurpie Culture Museum and the City of Ostrołęka. Creator of Kurpiowskie Plenery Fotograficzne Facebook profile, member of ekurpie.pl photo group. A fan of Kurpie culture. His photographs can be found in publications about the region. He permanently lives in Nowa Wieś.

SEE MORE AT:

Kurpiowskie Plenery Fotograficzne www.facebook.com/kurpiewfotografii

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Kurpie WORDS BY

PHOTOS BY

Bogdan Białczak travel.lovePoland Magazine

Bogdan Białczak

“Lots of dull people get angry when someone calls them “Puszczak” (which means the one who lives in woods) or even more – “Kurp”.

It is true that the latter name was created later and it not completely correct – however, it has been accepted, so the best you can do is to agree upon it and not to take offence because of that. The history of our past shows that “Kurp” (the inhabitant of the Kurpie region) is neither a malefactor nor a coward, but a hardworking man and a good Pole, who never stained his life with an ugly deed , who never was a coward but who always loved his homeland and was always eager to sacrifice himself for it.” – Adam Chętnik, Puszcza Kurpiowska [Kurpie Forest], 1913

tLP: Bogdan, you say about yourself that “The photography is your most important occupation, beside your family and work”.

How do you want to show your world of Kurpie through the camera lens?

BB. I have been interested in photos since I remember. At first, it was a fascination with the possibility of recording reality, its consolidation in the image. All these "spells" in the darkroom, the appearance of the picture on photographic paper, the smell of chemicals and equipment – these were all unforgettable, magical moments.

To this day I remember the smell of Smena 8M – my first camera, from which it all began and the moment the first image appeared on the developed picture. With time, this fascination turned into a more conscious photography skill supported by acquired knowledge and experience.

These are mainly the photos of the Kurpie region, as I live here. Light is important in photography, and in order to have it, you have to be in a specific place at a time when the light is right. It is natural that the best chance for good light will always come in the places where we live or spend longer time. Nature is unpredictable, so being close to the places we want to photograph, we are able to get there quickly when 42 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

the beautiful light appears. I also do it, I try to photograph Kurpie in a beautiful light.

I have a window at home, from which I can see meadows in the distance. When I look at them before dawn, I know if there will be interesting light, it is a photographic barometer that starts working after some time of trial and error. I encourage you to photograph your closest surroundings, after all, we know them best, so our chances for good photos are the biggest! tLP: You run a profile about Kurpie on social media. Were you born here and fell in love with the place from the first sight?

BB. Kurpie is my "little homeland", it is hardly surprising that I like the region where I grew up. I once did not appreciate it, but such things probably come with age.

Actually, the profile Kurpiowskie Plenery Fotograficzne: (www.facebook.com/kurpiewfotografii/) arose from the desire to share photorelated activities with friends who are scattered around the area and all over Poland, and also deal with photography.

From time to time I organise photographic open airs, which create the opportunity to see old friends, although strangers are also welcome, of course.

Often, we do not appreciate the beauty, the potential of the place where we live. It is natural that when we watch something every day, then it seems to be unattractive and ordinary. If we work there every day, we put much effort into our work and so the environment, somehow connected with work, becomes less attractive. That's how we get to the point where everything seems boring, ordinary and ugly. And yet the beauty of this place is still there! One of the most common questions people ask me is: "And what are you photographing here, there is nothing here!". But actually, it is there, waiting to be noticed! If you even have to put in a little effort, the beauty you find in return gives you greater satisfaction. It is not art to photograph the obvious beauty. People go to the photographic “obviousness” in the type Moravia, or Tuscany and also get disappointed, because although surely these areas are inborn beauties, the weather can always make a joke. In the meantime, please ask the participants of the Kurpie open airs if it is true that some of them got really stunned during outdoor sessions, enchanted with the moment. Kurpie is an unexplored place, not very popular, it's even difficult to collect a set of participants for a non-commercial outdoor setting, but isn’t it worth to go sometimes to an unmarked place, risk a trip to the unknown? On the other hand, thanks to the fact that photographers' crowds do not rush through the Kurpie region, I can photograph it in peace and quiet. tLP: You say, "I like to show the world in a way that the human eye usually cannot see." Is it possible to say that this is your way for photographs? Showing objects and realities in a way that differs from the way we frequently perceive this reality?

BB. It all depends on what photography is supposed to be.

If it is a documentary I try to minimise the interference in the pictures or interfere so that the picture reflects the reality. When it comes to more creative and artistic photography, I use the whole range of possibilities offered by knowledge about composition and used equipment.

What we see in the picture is the sum of many factors, the depth of field used, perspective, what will be shown and in what place of the picture, the type of light and many others. You can present the world in a completely different way than it looks at first glance. That's how "My Iceland" series was created , where the role of Iceland was played by... an ash depot of a power plant. The idea was to see beauty in a world that for a typical man is grey, ugly and dirty. Did it succeed? – let the viewers judge.

Another example is the series of "Wooden Kurpie churches", which was created in the infrared technique light invisible to human eyes. Moreover, the world looks completely different at different times of the day, the year, depends on the weather, there are no two identical moments in a given place. The range of possibilities to show the motif in a somewhat unusual way is very wide.

I like it and I try to do it. tLP: A conversation with a photographer focused on the local landscape is always an opportunity for us to ask questions about beautiful and unique places worth seeing and visiting in Kurpie. So show us around the Kurpie region, Bogdan. What exactly is this region? Probably still little known, mainly associated with... paper cut-outs...?

What is it for you and what is it or can it be for visitors?

BB. Kurpie is a region consisting of two parts – Kurpie Zielone and Kurpie Białe. The area of Kurpie Zielone in the north reaches the border with Masuria, in the west – Chorzel and further south along the Orzyc river, from the east along the Pisa and Narew rivers to Ostrołęka. Kurpie Białe is the area between Pułtusk, Wyszków, Brok and Ostrów Mazowiecki. These boundaries are quite fluid and different researchers define them differently. It is an ethnic and cultural region with its own dialect, which has recently experienced its renaissance: www.zwiazekkurpiow.pl/slownik/kurppol.

Rich handicrafts include not only cut-outs, but also hearts and flowers made of tissue paper, palm trees, embroidery, weaving, sculpture, Easter eggs, regional pastries and drinks. From disappearing professions you can see here amber-crafting and blacksmithing, and beekeeping is doing really well here, so there is real abundance of excellent honey. I buy honey only from local beekeepers, many of them I know on my own. Beautiful costumes of Kurpie, though not worn on a daily basis, are on certain occasions willingly presented by the residents. The best promoters of costumes are numerous Kurpie folk bands, which also beautifully sing and dance, e.g. "Pod Borem" from Zawady, "Kurpiowszczyzna" from Myszyniec, "Kurpianka" from Kadzidło, "Puszcza Biała" from Golądkowo or "ZPIT Kurpie" from Ostrołęka. tLP. What determines the strength of the region and what is still a challenge? Where is the best place to experience this 'strength' and beauty? In Ostrołęka, the capital of the region, or maybe in Lelisa, where the Ethnographic Centre is located? or in Kadzidło, where one may see famous 43 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

traditional Kurpie farmhouse or maybe elsewhere?

BB. It must be clearly stated that Ostrołęka has never been and is not the capital of Kurpie, as the larger settlement on the edge of Kurpie it was rather an administrative city, a centre of state power. Today Myszyniec and Kadzidło in the heart of the region compete for the primacy of the capital of Kurpie Zielone. I hope that the fruit of this competition will be the joint promotion of Kurpie, not a war on the roads because Kurpie are "quick-tempered people", as some researchers wrote, and eager to fight:). The strength of the region are thriving centres of folk culture even in Myszyniec, Kadzidło, Lelisa, with multitude of folk bands, Association of Kurpie (www.zwiazekkurpiow.pl, www.facebook.com/Kurpie.org), which, among others runs a publishing business, while in Kurpie Białe – Association Puszcza Biała Moja Mała Ojczyzna conducts events called „Kuźnia Kurpiowską” [The Kurpie Smithy] in Pniew, organising handicraft workshops and museum lessons, there is also an open air museum in Brańszczyk. Old traditions and language are reviving. I would like Kurpie to return to the beautiful traditions of wooden carpentry which they once were famous for. During the communist

period, wooden houses were replaced with "blocks", completely alienated from the local reality. Few old wooden houses can still be found in the villages, but the easiest way we can find them is to visit the "Kurpie farmstead" in Kadzidlo and the Kurpie Open Air Museum in Nowogród.

I think that Kurpie need more promotion, but this is changing for the better thanks to various events such as: "Vanishing occupations" and "Kurpie wedding" in Kadzidło, "National Days of Kurpie Culture" in Nowogród or "Honey Harvest" in Myszyniec and many smaller local ones often associated with the tradition of only one or several villages. www.mazowieckiszlaktradycji.com/artykuly/imprezyfolklorystyczne-i-swieta-na-kurpiach. tLP: I must admit that for me Kurpie is still a land quite alien, probably off the beaten track and my knowledge about it is more theoretical. I heard about the "Sosna Bartne" natural reserve or Serafin Reserve, but I have never experienced these places live, and the pristine forest is more familiar to me, probably as to the most of us, from the Bialowieza Forest. Is it worth visiting these places in Kurpie? What a lost tourist may find there ?

Indeed, there is no shortage of forests in the Kurpie region, but the primeval Puszcza Zielona was heavily depleted by the plundering economy during the partitions and later – world wars. Today's forests are mostly "forest crops" planted by man. One of the most interesting places is the Czarnia Reserve, and last year I was happy to say that one of the old wild beehives had been colonised by bees. There are also natural reserves in Surowe, „Olsy Płoszyckie”, „Zwierzyniec” in the community of Krasnosielc, „Podgórze” and a peat bog reserve „Karaska” in the community of Kadzidło or so called tree stand shelters of the National Forests. Few lakes have almost disappeared due to land drainage and today they are mostly marshy wetlands, overgrown lakes such as "Kalno" marsh, Serafin reserve (former Krusko lake), "Łacha" nature reserve. Kurpie is also known for the abundance of meadows where cow herds are grazing lazily, which is already an attraction itself as it is increasingly difficult to see cows in Poland outside the cowshed. In the meadows, picturesque well cranes, still used to draw water for animals, sometimes standing in "herds". Meadows are cut with winding Narew, Omulew, Pisa Rivers as well as smaller Szkwa and Rozoga, flowing often in the areas of

"Natura 2000". Kurpie Białe is the beautiful area of the Bug River Valley. Meadows often flooded by water form large water reservoirs freezing in winter, and in the spring they turn into a green, yellow and purple carpets due to grass, glaucoma and campion.

There are a lot of crosses and chapels along the roads, often with beautiful wooden sculptures, although here I have to complain that many of these sculptures have been replaced with plain plaster figures. Fortunately, you can see some signs of a return to tradition lately, there are many new wooden figures of local folk artists. tLP: We mentioned the traditions of the region. Easter is ahead of us. It is said that a great place to get to know the traditions of Kurpie Easter palms is the small town of Łysy, isn’t it? Or maybe it is better to go to the open-air museum in Nowogród?

BB. When it comes to traditions, it is best to experience them among people, for example during the Palm Sunday in Łyse, Lipniki or other places. The biggest event is "Palma Kurpiowska" in Łyse. On Palm Sunday, there is a procession with Easter palms which starts from the old

wooden church and moves along the streets to the new church. It is a colourful procession of countless palm trees emanating with a riot of colours. (www.facebook.com/kurpiewfotografii/photos/a.16199668 74886074/1725879440961483).

At the local markets in the villages of the Kurpie region, you can get all possible handicrafts, taste local cuisine, listen to Kurpie songs and see folk dances. Soon, we will have Corpus Christi celebration, and this is best opportunity to see the procession in folk costumes, including those in Myszyniec, Kadzidło, Czarnia, Baranów, Pniewo. This is the time when you can admire probably the most numerous traditional Kurpie costumes in one place.

Puszcza Zielona – in English called Green Forest – is a different name of the Kurpie Forest, not its remnant.We can see some panoramas in the Kurpie region, but only in the open areas as it is a flat region. Here, a few meters high hill is called the mountain. The panorama can be viewed, for example, from the view tower of Podgórze near Wach, a beautiful view of the surrounding meadows stretches from the church in Leman, which stands on a small hill; an interesting hilly area is also the village of Kozioł nad Pisą. From the other possibilities of watching the panoramas I used... motor gliders and balloon flights.

A flight over Omulwia, or Pisa, winding its blue ribbons across the meadows, is an unforgettable experience!

tLP: Returning to the forests – where to go to see the panorama of Kurpie forests filled with pine and spruce tree stands, maybe Kraski? Or again to the municipality of Łyse?

Thank you for the conversation.

BB. There, after all, we get to the Green Forest – a remnant of the former Kurpie Forest As to the explanation

KURPIE BOGDAN BIAŁCZAK

If you are fun of kayaking, don't miss an opportunity to kayak from Łomża to Nowogród by Narew river.

The five main rivers of the Kurpie region are: the Narew, Pisa, Szkwa, Rozoga and Omulew. Besides the rivers and streams, the region abounds in ancient river-beds and bogs.

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KURPIE BOGDAN BIAŁCZAK

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KURPIE BOGDAN BIAŁCZAK

The peripheral location of the Kurpie region in relation to other parts of Poland as well as people living the neighbouring terrains with their strange culture, i. e. the nobility and peasants at Polish side, and Mazurian Protestants in Prussia, and inaccessibility of these forest terrains enabled for the formation by the Kurpie people a rich and unique culture, expressed in dialect, songs, dances, customs, folk art, architecture and buildings.

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how to get there

Ostroleka, the region's main city, lies 115 km from Warsaw. It is advisable to fly to Warsaw first (or Olsztyn) and then continue your trip by train, bus (PKS or private bus lines) or a car. It takes approximately 2.5 hours to get to Ostroleka from Warsaw. For those coming by car, the most important route is road no. 61 from Warsaw to Suwałki and on to the Baltic countries.

You can also take road no.53 from Warsaw to the region of Kurpie.

NOITANITSED

NIEDŹWIEDZIA (BEARS') CAVE IN KLETNO text and photos: Mikołaj Gospodarek

The history of this place begins 50 million years ago. The first drop hits the rock, the first movement of the earth surface creates a gap where a world full of magic and charm will develop for millions of years. About 1.8 million years ago, the process ended.

The place remained intact – it was a shelter for animals that lived on earth for centuries – a cave bear, the bones of which were the most numerous in the cave's mud, became extinct about 28,000 years ago.

An extraordinary story, the cave becomes inaccessible – until one October day in 1966, when a hole appeared in the marble excavation – and first people could enter the interior, which survived in the hiding and closure of almost 13,000 years! After the discovery of this place, the marble mining is discontinued. A long period of research and work begins in the interior, so that it can be opened in June 1983 for everyone who is interested. From the very beginning, the cave is very popular. It attracts with its beauty thousands of tourists interested in the wonders of nature which cannot be seen anywhere else. From the very moment you come to Stronie Śląskie, you can feel the amazing atmosphere of this place. Extensive mountain ranges with the reigning Śnieżnik Mountain fill the landscape.

From the car park, walking to the Cave takes about 30 minutes - it is only 1200 meter walk through the beautiful forest.

VISIT: WWW.GOSPODAREK.PL 54 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

An interesting fact is that the Bear Cave in Kletno is the first in Poland that can be visited by people with disabilities who use wheelchairs. Since 2013, there is an opportunity of an extreme tour in the lower parts of the cave, guided by professional speleologists.

This place made a great impression on me – firstly, because it is a space completely unlike any other, secondly it is a photographic paradise – the place itself creates images for millions of years. The very awareness of time, this persistent dropping of water – makes me admire all of that. It did not arise just like that – the process lasted thousands of years lasted and it still continues.

As it usually happens with me – a miracle happened – in the middle of winter, there shouldn't be any water inside, it appears only in spring – but strange weather, lack of snow and positive temperatures made everything flow, drip and get overflowed. Apparently, such phenomena do not happen very often - but this one coincided with my visit. Incredible! This place made a great impression on me – firstly, because it is a space completely unlike any other, secondly it is a photographic paradise – the place itself creates images for millions of years.

LP.KERADOPSOG.WWW

The entrance to the cave was built up with a pavilion, the hole itself was shielded to protect the unique microclimate of the cave. We walk through its comfortable concrete pavements, and the well-designed lighting allows you to admire the majestic stalagmites, stalactites, hanging 'macaroni', rhinestones and wonders about which it's hard to write - you just have to see them on your own. Constant temperature, about +6 degrees Celsius and humidity almost 100% adds to the charm, because such a microclimate cannot be found outside the old kingdom of the bear. Its skeleton we can admire at the entrance – it was much larger and heavier than the largest members of his family currently living. The weight of these giants reached almost 900 kg! The tour takes about 40 minutes at a quiet pace of walk – we travel a total of 360 meters of the accessible route, but we will see almost 500 meters of the underground tunnels. This is a small fragment of the cave, because its total length is 5000 meters (from 2012, after the discovery of new corridors) – the bottom and top parts are unavailable- the tourist visit the cave in its middle part. The remaining parts are the subject of scientific research and it will probably take a long time before they are open to the public.

NIEDŹWIEDZIA (BEARS') CAVE IN KLETNO MIKOŁAJ GOSPODAREK

The very awareness of time, this persistent dropping of water – makes me admire all of that. It did not arise just like that – the process lasted thousands of years lasted and it still continues. As it usually happens with me – a miracle happened in the middle of winter, there shouldn't be any water inside. It appears only in spring – but strange weather, lack of snow and positive temperatures made everything flow, drip and get overflowed. Apparently, such phenomena do not happen very often – but this one coincided with my visit. Incredible!

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NIEDŹWIEDZIA (BEARS') CAVE IN KLETNO MIKOŁAJ GOSPODAREK

What captivated me the most is the sound the cave makes of itself. The continuous falling of water drops in i the various parts of the cave, with varying frequency, creates specific noise. Very pleasant indeed. I have never heard anything so beautiful. An extraordinary experience. Despite these voices, there is unprecedented silence. You feel cut off from the sounds of the world, cars, people's buzz. This place is free from the sounds of my everyday life, which is why I felt great in these rocky corridors.

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NIEDŹWIEDZIA (BEARS') CAVE IN KLETNO MIKOŁAJ GOSPODAREK

Does the cave smell somehow? Yes, definitely it does.

It is difficult to describe it. It does not remind me of anything. If there was a smell of consciousness of time that had passed, It would probably smell like that It is unique. It's no point writing more here. It just has to be seen. Words, pictures cannot express the beauty and a kind of nobility of this place. Go and see for yourself! Are you looking for interesting places in the area of Kletno? Be sure to check the book – you will find a lot of tips there – "Sielska Polska".

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see more at:

WWW.GOSPODAREK.PL

"SIELSKA POLSKA" (Idyllic Poland) MUTICO, 2017 HARDCOVER, PAGES: 168 FORMAT: 22.5 X 26.0 CM ISBN: 978-83-7763-408-0

Mikołaj Gospodarek was born in 1987 in Częstochowa.

Photographer, journalist, traveller and free spirit.

He graduated from the Faculty of Film and Photography at the College of Art and Design in Łódź.

Mikołaj in his own words: „Sielska Polska” (Idyllic Poland) is a book that was supposed to be a signpost. On the pages of it, I share with the readers some places that I have visited during my journeys around the country.

I have been working as a photographer since 2008.

Initially, I travelled only in search of landscapes.

Later, I began to appreciate the cultural richness of the regions I visited.

When in 2016 I became the editor-in-chief of the Slow Road project, some extraordinary people joined this puzzle. They motivated me to collect all these materials. I realised that Poland is an extraordinary country.

Despite the fact that I was living permanently in Bavaria, I did not enjoy anything more than the view of the Podlasie field road, a haystack near Nowy Targ or the sound of the Baltic Sea in Łeba.

I share my world with the readers. I have already visited over 200 agritourism facilities in Poland.

Of these, I have chosen 17 favourite places. I added 389 more which in my opinion are the most interesting spots to visit in Poland and this way the picture of “Idyllic Poland” was created.

M E D I A

S U P P O R T

O F

L O V E

P O L A N D

WŁADYSŁAW HASIOR THE WŁADYSŁAW HASIOR GALLERY ZAKOPANE, JAGIELLOŃSKA 18b Str open: Wednesday – Saturday 11am – 18pm (July – August: Tuesday – Saturday 11am-18pm), Sunday 9am – 15pm admission: 7,00 zł, concessions: 5,50 zł Permanent exhibition of Władysław Hasior's works.

Władysław Hasior, photo: Janusz Sobolewski

"Wladyslaw Hasior's works are universal. They are very Polish too.

While they are connected with the Podhale region, its culture, beliefs, history and nature, and are concerned with the basics of work, the rhythm of life, and with regional tradition and modernity, they also convey a more general message. This message is not just something extra, appearing alongside local values. All Hasior's work incorporates some universal qualities."

the Gallery The Władyslaw Hasior Gallery is housed in a wooden building dating back to 1935, which was originally constructed as a place for the Warszawianka Hotel to store its win. The gallery opened in 1985 and is devoted to the works of Władyslaw Hasior (1928-1999), a graduate of the Zakopane School of the Fine Arts and Warsaw Fine Arts Academy. In 1959, he also studied under Ossip Zadkine in Paris. In Poland, Hasior's works can be seen in museums in Krakow, Warsaw, Łódź, Poznań, Szczecin, Wrocław, Bydgoszcz, Lublin, Nowy Sącz and Zakopane; abroad, his works are on display in museums in Helsinki, Paris, Stockholm, Oslo, S‹o Paulo, Rome, Milan, Edinburgh, Bochum, Duisburg and Amsterdam. There are a large number of Hasior's works in private collections as well.

The Zakopane Gallery boasts representative examples of Hasior's work in various genres: spatial compositions; sculptures made from a variety of materials; pieces of everyday rubbish that acquire new meanings in the artist's works, and, accompanied as they are with metaphorical jokes and paradoxical titles, inspire viewers to reflect on the contemporary world and art.

THE WŁADYSŁAW HASIOR GALLERY ul. Jagiellońska 18b 34-500 Zakopane Phone: (+48 18) 206 68 71 Website: www.muzeum.tatrynet.pl Email: museum@tatrynet.pl source: www.culture.pl

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WŁADYSŁAW HASIOR

"The contrast for water is fire, earth and air. This classification was established terribly long ago – when people did not know how to count all the elements, because – strangely enough – there is one more.

The fifth element is the human ability to fantasize".

ZAKOPANE, JAGIELLOŃSKA 18b STR, WŁADYSŁAW HASIOR GALLERY www.muzeumtatrzanskie.pl photos from the exhibition: lovepoland.org, 2016 61 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

Hasior was a sculptor, painter, set designer, and teacher. He was born in Nowy Sącz on 14th May, 1928, and died in Kraków on 14th July, 1999.

He was buried at Pęksowy Brzyzek cemetery in Zakopane.

Hasior was an extraordinary personality, and a very colourful and magnetic individual. In the West, he was hailed as "the most talented student of Rauschenberg and Warhol". In Poland, his work is considered as a precursor to pop art and assemblage, despite the artist's obstinate insistence that he had "never suffered from modernity".

Hasior regarded artistic activity as an intellectual and creative provocation, and he perceived modernity as rooted in a culture whose language was universal.

Fot. lovepoland.org text source: www.culture.pl

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WŁADYSŁAW HASIOR GALLERY Zakopane

Hasior entered the art world in a manner that immediately drew the attention of the general public, and soon after became a "cult" artist for the 60s and 70s generations. His work shocked and delighted, aroused extreme emotions and judgement, and his controversial attitude compelled audiences to ask questions about the nature of art, and the artistic license of choosing the language of expression.

As one of the few such artists of the time, he gained a level of popularity typically enjoyed by celebrities of film and stage. He built structures out of everyday objects or fragments thereof, thus restoring their significance. In this fashion, he engaged in a continuous dialogue with Polish reality and mythology, a dialogue leavened with poetry, but also with mockery and irony.

Fot. lovepoland.org text source: www.culture.pl

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love Poland media partner

Night of Culture 1/2 JUNE 2019, LUBLIN

Can you imagine that for one night a forgotten Lublin alley transforms into the most romantic corner of Europe, rivalling Barcelona, Venice or Paris? Should concerts still be performed on stages when these performances can be played on rooftops or the walls of historic tenement houses? Would watching films under the beautiful starry night be more captivating than going to a cinema? Night of Culture is a festival of endless surprises. Night of Culture is when unusual things happen. We can even sometimes see places which disappeared off Lublin's map years ago.

“You can feel how the whole city's celebrating, it's not just one stage somewhere out in the field and everyone is looking forward to it. I have never felt such vibes anywhere else”. Patrizia, 24 years old, Italy. Night of Culture is a celebration of Lublin – a tale about the city woven by its inhabitants and friends.

It is a meeting of artists, animators, various cultural circles and those who want to spend this evening together. Most of all, it is an event filled with cultural attractions. The attendees face a tough choice, there are hundreds of things to see and do and time is short.

It is only one night.

“We’'ve been coming here for the past few years and we've never been disappointed. It’'s very therapeutic to get away from everyday reality, laugh and have fun with strangers in the streets. Doctors should prescribe this festival”. Marcus, 38 years old, Germany.

Art enlivens forgotten or unknown places. Archways become light installations, squares and plazas transform into stages and the alleys of the Old Town surprise even their most regular visitors. Galleries, theatres and museums remain open until the small hours.

Photo: Ignac Tokarczyk

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A NIGHT OF BIG TRANSFORMATIONS An interview with Joanna Wawiórka-Kamieniecka, Night of Culture director

R. Joanna, can you tell us how exactly is Night of Culture unique? What makes it stand out from other similar European events?

Joanna Wawiórka-Kamieniecka: It's a festival which transforms Lublin, the city where it takes place.

Incredible things happen then: long lost buildings suddenly reappear, concerts are played by musicians hanging from the walls of historic buildings, the city centre’s busy main street transforms into a huge lawn where you can relax. Such things do not happen every day. On this one night, art is not closed behind the doors of a museum, but enlivens forgotten or unknown places and presents the corners of the city that we do know in an entirely new, unusual light. The festival inspires both frequent visitors and tourists to discover Lublin’ s beauty.

R: Lublin is a large city – nearly 350 thousand residents.

How do you pick your venues?

JWK: We focus on the Old Town and its closest vicinity.

It turns out that the city centre alone includes unknown or nearly forgotten spots. We are predominantly drawn to places that are held in disrepute. For this one night they become the most beautiful and the most visited places in the city. The more impossible it seems to change them, the more the attendees are surprised afterwards! For instance, thanks to the effort of the local artists Jarosław Koziara and Niezależna Grupa Projektowa Piękno Panie, we have dispelled the generally negative impressions of certain streets in the city centre. Several thousand lanterns made of dresses were hung along one such narrow street. It was definitely the most illuminated spot of that Night of Culture. And, what’s more interesting, imagine that even though crowds walked across that street, there was absolute silence.

R: But surely this hasn’t been the only such magical project.

JWK: Right, every year we try to focus on a different corner of the Old Town and its vicinity. Two years ago we moved another street 100 years back in time.

Photo: Jakub Bodys

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Fot. Marcin Butryn

Fot. Marcin Butryn

Thanks to the joint efforts of cultural animators and artists from different institutions and organisations, we changed store windows and signboards in all the stores and service outlets in the area, we had atmospheric lights installed, vintage cars appeared and actors dressed up in period costumes walked here and there. We also held a retro dance party to the tunes of pre-war hits.

All this was complemented by a century-old, antique Victorian merry-go-round. Another time, we went even further and moved a street back to the days of the Creation of the World.

French artists – Francois Monnet and Isabelle Barthélemy were among artists responsible for making it happen and setting the right atmosphere in that spot. They designed and produced a dozen or so large-format lanterns out of wicker and paper. The lanterns were shaped like fish, fish-birds, bird-fish and they surprised the audiences with their fleetingness and lightness.

R: Do these installations stay in the city? Can they still be viewed afterwards?

Fot. Piotr Jaruga

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JWK: Unfortunately not. That’'s the charm of Night of Culture – it only lasts several hours. But I can promise you that this year’s edition will be just as magical.

Fot. Jakub Bodys

The theme of this year's Night of Culture is City Story.

We will experience a multi-threaded plot and several breathtaking chapters. It will be a tale featuring many protagonists, lots of dialogues, twists and turns as well as descriptions of nature, there will be lots of retrospection and humour. We want to invite “Readers” for a unique reading of the city. Night of Culture is a journey around Lublin embedded in imagination. The reader chooses the order of chapters and therefore influences the plot; the reader is the one who decides when the story ends.

Fot. Ignac Tokarczyk

R: Night of Culture consists of several hundred events co-created by residents, artists and animators. There are lots of things to choose from.

JWK: That's true. Aside from large, spectacular arrangements of the public space, Night of Culture consists of 300 hundred events that artists and residents of Lublin involved in the festival create together and invite everyone to see. Our programme includes concerts, stage plays, exhibitions, meetings and shows. Most of them take place in the city, in squares and plazas. All of them are free and available to the public. Sometimes it’'s difficult to decide what to see or do because there are a lot of events happening at the same time. It's worth taking the time to look at the programme in advance in order to come up with the perfect plan for the night.

Night of Culture, 1/2 June 2019 Lublin, Poland The Old Town and the city centre Free admission

event schedule www.en.nockultury.pl (from mid May) 67 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

ROYAL CASTLE IN WARSAW irek@warsawcityguide.pl, web: www.warsawcityguide.pl, FB: facebook.com/yourwarsawguide, tel: +48 533 498 851

WARSAW TRAVEL GUIDE

by Irek Szajba for travel.lovePoland Magazine

Whenever you get a post card from Warsaw you are most likely to see the square on which we finished our Warsaw tour in the last issue of this magazine. There will be a king's statue on the top of a column, a castle, the remaining part of the medieval city walls and colourful tenement houses of the Old Town of Warsaw. First impressions can be misleading. We will not find any spectacular architecture in this area - Warsaw’'s Old Town looks just like any other medieval town in this part of Europe. Nevertheless, it has been listed as a protected UNESCO World Heritage Site, and if we recall in how many wars a frontline was passing back and forth through Warsaw we will find it miraculous that it still exists. Let’s focus on the castle… is it a castle or a palace? If we had to put it in either category today it would definitely be a palace. When the first parts of the Royal Castle of Warsaw were built it was a defensive structure, as a hostile order of Teutonic knight’s controlled land nearby. Back then it wasn't a royal residence, but a castle that belonged to Mazovian Dukes. When it became a royal residence, it was reconstructed into a palace, as in the 17th century Warsaw was in the middle of the third biggest country of Europe.

Even though the building does not look like a defensive castle anymore it still retains the name of its original construction.

The history of the Royal Castle of Warsaw reflects the troubled history of the entire town. At the end of the 13th century, the Dukes of Mazovia, who were loyal to the Kings of Poland, were residing in the castle in Czersk, about 20 miles away from Warsaw up the river Vistula. Another centre of the Dukes’ power was in Zakroczym, about 20 miles down the river, and Warsaw was just a small village, exactly half way between those castles. Czersk was located on a high escarpment by the river, as the opposite bank of the Vistula was flooded every spring time. Each year the river returned to its original river bed, leaving fertilized fields in its wake. One year, at the end of the 13th century, the Vistula River found a new river bed 3 miles away from the castle in Czersk. It was a real disaster to find a centre of local power being cut off from a source of trade, food 68 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

and building materials. Duke Conrad II of Mazovia then built the first brick-made defensive structure in the location of the current Royal Castle. The new location was perfect.

Warsaw was also located high on the Vistula’'s Escarpment, which made eventual defence easier and gave access to the main trading route on the river as well, as it was located on the land trading route. Warsaw’'s foundation charter was probably destroyed during one of wars in the middle 1600’'s. There is one document in Warsaw’'s archives mentioning that a pontifical court was held in Warsaw's Castle in 1339. It was a seat of the Mazovian Dukes until 1526 when the last duke died leaving no heir to the throne.

There was a suspicion that the last dukes, who died very young, were poisoned by the queen. This probably it wasn't the case, as the Queen- Bona Sforza, did not want to rule newly acquired land that was incorporated into the Polish Crown by her husband Sigismund I. Bona Sforza, who had been well educated in Italy, had become involved in politics in the royal court in Cracow. This infuriated the King so he sent her to Warsaw as conveniently.

She could speak Latin. It was a language of science, politics and philosophy, normally spoken only by men. Queen Bona Sforza was the first monarch to reside in Royal Castle of Warsaw. Her grandson Sigismund III, who was crowned as a king of Poland at the age of 21, lived in Cracow. As a young monarch he appointed a court alchemist and they carried out experiments. Soon he became King of Sweden as Sigismund II, and Cracow became an inconvenient location from which to rule both countries.

To make it even more interesting, during one of the alchemical experiments, the royal residence in Cracow burnt down. The King became homeless and with Warsaw being closer to Sweden, he decided to move the royal court to the Castle of Warsaw, where his grandmother had lived 40 years earlier.

From 1607 the Castle in Warsaw could officially be called a Royal Castle as the King finally finished the 11-year long process of moving house. Warsaw soon turned into the centre of power for the Polish and Lithuanian Commonwealth.

The Royal Castle in Warsaw the beginning 1339 The Royal Castle in Warsaw is a castle residency that formerly served throughout the centuries as the official residence of the Polish monarchs. It is located in the Castle Square, at the entrance to the Warsaw Old Town. Initially the complex served as the residence of the Dukes of Masovia, and since the sixteenth century, the seat of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth: the King and Parliament

1933

1939 On 17 September 1939, the Castle was shelled by German artillery.

On 4 October 1939 in Berlin, Adolf Hitler issued the order to blow up the Royal Castle. In 1944, after the collapse of the Warsaw Uprising, when hostilities had already ceased, the Germans blew up the Castle's demolished walls.

1940-1945

1971-74-98

current view Immediately after the end of war in 1945, work started on rescuing the surviving fragments of the castle's walls. The decision to start work was postponed several times, but was finally taken on 20 January 1971. A Civic Committee was set up. By May 1975 the Fund had already reached the 500 million złotys. Also, more than a thousand valuable works of art had been given to the Castle by numerous Poles resident both in Poland and abroad.

Fot. press materials The Royal Castle in Warsaw lovePoland.org press accreditation

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The Castle received new wings and the old gothic character of the building disappeared. Soon it gained the shape of a pentagon, worthy of a monarch ruling one of the largest and most populous countries of Europe.

King Sigismund III moved his royal court to Warsaw while coronation insignia were kept in Cracow as well as further coronations were taking place in the old capital. There is a dispute as to when exactly the a capital moved from Cracow to Warsaw. Technically it is difficult to establish, while the first legal act mentioning Warsaw as the capital city of Poland was announced in 1952.

The Royal Castle in Warsaw was damaged and looted few times during the Swedish Deluge. At the end of the18th century, during the reign of the King Stanislaw II Augustus sessions of Grand Sejm were held. As the result of a four year long debate, which took place in the Royal Castle between 1788-91, the first Polish Constitution was announced. It was the first European codification of fundamental principles, and second in the world, as the United States had announced their constitution two years earlier. It did not mean a lot when five years later Poland disappeared from the map of Europe. When the partitions of Poland began, Warsaw and the castle were looted by the Prussian Army and the Russian Tsar Army. Devastated and robbed, the Castle was given to Russian General-Governor as a residence. When the Russian Army left Polish territory in August of 1915, ending a 100 year-long occupation, the Royal Castle was looted once again. Marble decorations were removed from walls and permanent elements of the building were taken to Russia.

The Royal Castle became the seat of the German GeneralGovernor until November 1918, and was then again looted and abandoned when the German army departed in turn the renovated building of the Royal Castle was then turned into one of the branches of the Polish National Museum.

Mr. Stanislaw Lorentz was a director of the museum when World War II began in 1939. On 17 September that year, during the heaviest carpet attack of German bombers, the castle was damaged. The main clock tower caught fire and a clock mechanism stopped at 11:15am.

During the German occupation of 1939-1944 the castle was once again plundered and devastated. At the end of 1944, after the fall of the Warsaw Uprising, occupying forces detonated explosives planted in the walls of the Royal Castle and destroyed it completely. The only part that survived this explosion was the old gothic basement, 70 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

the chamber of Great Sejm, which witnessed works on the constitution in the 18th century.

Reconstruction of the castle took place between 1971-1985 and it was funded by Polish citizens, mainly those living in the USA. Fund risers did not get a single penny from the communist government, so they started reconstruction without waiting for their permission or approval. The Royal Castle of Warsaw was once again opened to the public as a museum in 1985, even though artists were still completing finishing touches for another year.

In 1980 The Old Town of Warsaw was registered as a protected UNESCO World’'s Heritage Site. It is only site of this kind on the list, as it consists mostly of reconstructed buildings. The castle was brought back to its pre-war shape; architects and artists took care of every smallest detail.

The clock on the reconstructed tower was brought back to life at 11:15am on 17th of July 1974. All clocks which you can find in royal chambers during your visit to the museum are set to 11:15am. To take the cult of 11:15 even further, while all Polish towns play their anthem at midday, a trumpeter on the Royal Castle's clock tower starts playing at… you can guess. There are museums I can recommend to visit during your stay in the capital of Poland.

The Royal Castle in Warsaw is definitely on this list. Some would say it is reconstructed and rearranged, but I say it is as historical as it could get, when you realise what happened to this town throughout history. I will try to explain it in more detail in the next issue, during our walk around Old Town of Warsaw.

Irek Szajba

Zamek Królewski w Warszawie Muzeum.

Rezydencja Królów i Rzeczypospolitej.

Plac Zamkowy 4, Warszawa

the Royal Castle, Warsaw

ADDRESS: PLAC ZAMKOWY 4, 00-277 WARSZAWA for current info visit: www.zamek-krolewski.pl/en Fot. lovepoland.org archive and Fot. Mariusz Cieszewski / www.poland.pl 71Â TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

WHAT MAKES THE POCKET HISTORY OF POLAND WORTH READING? An interview with author Dariusz Sirko Conducted by: Ledy Mikeladze

What inspired you to write The Pocket History of Poland?

The idea to write the book appeared during my participation in the European mobility project in Madeira.

The project was organized by the FRS Foundation, in cooperation with the Association of Friends of Art Teatro Metaphora based in the charming Câmara de Lobos.

During the project I was obliged to contribute to several initiatives aimed at cultural exchange. Therefore, I was asked to give several lectures about Poland. Originally it was supposed to be lectures about Polish language with a short introduction to basic phrases and sentences.

However, due to the fact that I am not confident enough in teaching my native language, I decided that the main motive would be to present the history and culture of Poland. The idea wasn’t taken out of the blue, that’s because Portuguese in Madeira do not know much about our country. Well, I may not be totally correct here. They know single historic figures such as Józef Piłsudski or Pope John Paul II. However, that’s rather thanks to the fact that in the very centre of Funchal we find monument of the two individuals. Through my lectures I provided them with the historical context... the picture of historical events from which Poland came to existence.

How did you organize The Pocket History of Poland? Why did you decide on pocket format to this publication?

The book is dedicated primarily to foreigners who are interested in our country. Whether they plan a visit to Poland or just want to succinctly learn about our history… to understand our sentiments etc. After all, it is always the past that helps us to identified ourselves today. This book is a source of interesting historical facts and well-known legends that shaped us, Polish people, and our country.

From its mythic origins through to its medieval period, and more well-known struggles against its own neighbours, The Pocket History of Poland tells Poland's history in its entirety. My “easy-going writing style” makes the book a light read that will both amuse and inform. Choosing the pocket format to this publication seemed quite obvious from the beginning. I’m a fun of short books, for instance, Pocket Oxford series.

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Plus, in my belief this structure of the book makes it appealing to even the most reluctant readers. Its design and size promise it won’t be a tedious journey. I hope that’s how the readers of the book find my storytelling.

The book appears to be a pretty well-thought-out.

Who helped you in the writing process?

I'm not a historian. And by being honest, I envy those who have studied history. I imagine that for a historian who stays truthful in performing his profession, life certainly must be a multidimensional experience. Definitely richer than the one of an average person. The Pocket History of Poland is written by a “regular guy” who is simply passionate about history. That’s why before I allowed the manuscript for public availability, it went through hands of many people that specialise in our history. The main substantive consultation was made with dr. Anita Prazmowska from the department of International History at LSE. dr. Prazmowska helped me with the fact-checking.

Also thanks to doctor’s suggestions I gave up in the book some irrelevant information that would only litter the text of inapposite allusions. I speak here of the two last chapter of the book in which I describe the modern times. Although I tried my best, it become a little political willy-nilly.

In terms of the language, Josef Butler, a historian based in London, made a linguistic edit. It is thanks to Josef the book is this appealing to a native speaker. He helped me an awful lot. Least but not last, the book features illustrations by Małgorzata Starszak. Thanks to these and other fantastic people the release of the book came true.

Why should I recommend Pocket History of Poland to a friend from abroad? I think it's worth reading. This is probably the shortest version of our history ever written.

However, I can be wrong. I hope that the pocket version of Polish history will find its readers.

Pocket History of Poland is available in most online bookstores in Poland www.bonito.pl/k-90694439-pocket-history-of-poland and abroad www.thepolishbookstore.com e-books through Amazon.com

DARIUSZ SIRKO

Pocket History of Poland ILLUSTRATIONS AND COVER DESIGN: MAŁGORZATA STARSZAK

Photo: ARTHUR ALEKSANIN/Aleksanian Photography

‘This small book is like having quick reference about Poland in a pocket from a native young Pole, who tells the story of the country in a fabulous manner. Amazing allegory, humour, lightness of sentences and helpful insight from the author reads very well. I recommend the book simply for its quality. Well done!’

- Lela Tssave; OSCE/ODIHR Office for Democratic Institutions and Human Rights

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Two rivers: Biebrza and Narew

SEPTEMBER 2016 | VOL. 2

A story by Małgorzata Pawelczyk Contact: email: figoosia@gmail.com FB: Wędrówki Wiatrem Podszyte Małgośki Pawelczyk, www.facebook.com/wedrowki wiatrempodszyte/

We got you covered on more products you can fill www.mkpawelczyk.pl your garage with. / p15 Guys share their funniest stories about how they wash their cars. / p25

Two rivers: Biebrza and Narew Małgorzata Pawelczyk www.mkpawelczyk.pl

Would like to find yourself in a place where you can see endless meadows and marshes with no signs of civilisation?

If your answer is “yes”, you should visit the Biebrza River Valley!

Here you will hear the rush of the river, enjoy the smell of the fields and see a starry sky at night. It is one of the largest wildlife refuges in Europe and the biggest national park in Poland protecting intact natural areas and numerous species of plants and animals. It is a real paradise for birds - over 80% of Polish avifauna can be found here. This area is a must-see place for all birdwatchers, photographers and nature lovers.

When the spring begins, you can see and hear an extraordinary spectacle of birds performing a courtship ritual dances.

However, if you want to better understand and feel the amazing climate of this place, you should do rafting on the Biebrza River or take the guided tour around the Red Swamps (Czerwone Bagna).

You can stand face to face with the undisputed king of the Biebrza Marshes, the Eurasian elk. Or maybe you would prefer to meet beaver, river otter or wolf? Whatever you choose, you can be sure that you will make the perfect choice!

The kingdom of the Biebrza and Narew Rivers extends from north to south, from the area of Augustów to Łomża and Białystok. In the spring the silence over the Biebrza and Narew is interrupted by the calls that will be heard till autumn. At the beginning of March, wild geese come to Biebrza. They fly one by one, in flocks. Then, vformations of cranes appear on the sky. Storks arrive from the Kenyan savannah, and aquatic warblers from Gambia. In April, elks emerge from their forest hideouts, and amphibians crawl out of swampy mud. For some bird species, the backwaters around the Biebrza and Narew Rivers are the end of the world, so they come here to stay for longer...

areas I was attracted by this enormous wealth, both natural and cultural. It results from the uniqueness and diversity of the local habitats, as well as from the purity of the local air, unpolluted by great industry and ennobled by vast forests, including three magnificent forests: Knyszyńska, Augustowska and Białowieska – the original landscape of the latter is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Also in Podlasie, there are European and world wide unique wetlands and bogs of the Biebrza valley, as well as the Narew river – "Polish Amazonia" with an extraordinary system of river beds, unique in a global scale. Now, I would not change this place for any other.

tLP. How did Małgorzata Pawelczyk find her way to the eastern waters of the Biebrza and Narew Rivers? Did you travel a long way? How come that you stopped here? After all, this corner of the country seems much different, as if it was dormant, maybe even forgotten?

tLP. Have you always been passionate about photography or maybe the passion woke up at the time of contact with the nature of Podlasie, or – wider – of eastern Poland? and when did the idea of Wędrówki Wiatrem Podszyte emerge?

MP: I was born and grew up in Jelenia Góra. Then it was Grajewo, Olsztyn, now for over 20 years –Białystok.

I really like traveling, but I'm not a type of a wanderer.

I came to Bialystok with love, and then both my husband and I realised that this is our place on earth. However, it wasn’'t love from the first sight. Podlasie made a stunning impression on me, but as I got to know these

MP: My first photographic experience was in 2014.

I took the camera out of curiosity and also to document my trips. Very quickly, however, it turned into a passion and now I can't imagine life without a camera in my hand. I am not a professional, rather a total autodidact, who started learning from browsing the guides and the tips of daughter.

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BIEBRZA AND NAREW RIVERS PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAŁGORZATA PAWELCZYK

However, I think that the best school is simply to take the camera and go out to the field. I devote a lot of time to it and it makes me happy, especially when my work is noticed.

I travel through Podlasie in search of beautiful landscapes, forgotten villages and natural wonders. I love sunrises, the mysteriousness of misty landscapes and the wildness of nature. I try to close my fascination with Podlasie in the frame. What fascinated me the most in the Podlasie landscapes is their ‘unreal nature’' is where we meet with another, though not always colourful, world. I look for beauty and I find this beauty. Access to the wider public is possible for me thanks to the... social media. Here, I could share my fascination with Podlasie. Very soon it turned out that there were more people crazy about Podlasie, so the idea of creating a website, where I could deliver a portion of "fresh pictures" almost every week, emerged naturally.

I have been running the site for four years and during this time Wędrówki have gathered over 40,000 followers, both in Poland and abroad. tLP. In the Magazine, we show Poland from the perspective of people who photograph it. It seems that this is an almost perfect combination, on one side we have beautiful photographs, and on the other, knowledge about the places

and phenomena of nature, so I would like to ask you to be our guide in the area where you live and photograph. Where would you take us first? – meet the king of swamps i.e. the moose, look at the battalion, present also in the logo of the Biebrza National Park or maybe to the woods, to the Knyszyńska Forest or to the famous Białowieża Forest?

MP: The question should not be "where" because here in Podlasie everything is unique, only "when". Spring is an ideal time of year to take a trip that you will remember forever.

Always beautiful – the Biebrza River is the most beautiful now; shiny like diamonds, silvered pools, almost to the horizon, where only the clumps of birches and alder thickets protrude above the water. Still grey after winter, and everywhere there is lots of hustle and bird noise.

Geese and cranes fly over in large flocks, slowly, majestically; in the evening and in the morning you can hear their loud babbling. The view of the of the birds taking off from the backwaters at dawn (and there are thousands of them) squeezes almost tears out of your eyes – this is an amazing spectacle! Once we have absorbed the views, we will set out to meet the king of the wetland – the moose.

I call them "nincompoops" or "dopeys". They are curious creatures who are trotting along the Tsar's Road (a road running in the heart of the Biebrza Park), as if they were surprised that the spring has already arrived and it is time to return to the swamps.

tLP. So let's stay over the backwaters. The Biebrza marshes constitute one of the largest preserved swamp complexes in Europe. It is said that spring is the most beautiful here... when flowers bloom, and battalions – one of the protected species of birds – have their mating. Do you agree with this opinion ? What makes this area buzzing with life? Aren't the visits of people ‘disturbing’ for the nature?

MP: In the early spring, on the wide backwaters, an unusual bird fair begins. Thousands of geese and swans, going east and north, stop here for rest, filling the air with the sound of wings, calling and cackling. The battalions are already walking among these species, ready to start their mating soon. Together with the first buds of marsh marigolds, the battalions become coloured (there are no two identically coloured battalions), preparing for the greatest spectacle on the backwaters. In the spring there is no silence! Here, everything chirps and thickets, you can hear the crane calls. to meet them, just after the snow melts down, a lot of bird enthusiasts arrive at the Biebrza and Narew, and their amount is growing every year. Bird lovers, however, are special kind of tourists, they get up at dawn, they do not throw even a single piece of paper, they are very disciplined.

They are ready to march through the mud and then stand motionless for many hours hoping that their dream bird will appear like a long-desired gift. They try not to be cumbersome to nature and animals.

tLP. Staying on the Biebrza or Narew river must be associated with so-called 'leisure by the water'...

How can we prepare best for the visit at the backwaters?

Surely, you will need solid rubber boots, or maybe we should try it barefoot? We also know that one of the most popular ways of spending time here is to stay for the night on a raft... or maybe for those brave-hearted an option could be watching everything from the air?

MP: Resting on the Biebrza or Narew is an active recreation.

In order to admire the whole blessing of the local nature, it is worth to buy maps, binoculars, a compass, a wellcharged telephone and, of course, the right clothes.

It is also necessary to get an insect repellent for deterring mosquitoes and meadows, of course, as there are millions of them over the swamps! In order to reach some of the places, it will also be necessary to wear appropriate shoes - that is, popular rubber boots, and sometimes waders.

In the valley of the Narew and Biebrza rivers, the best way to reach different places is by bicycle, the regulations on nature protection do not allow you to drive in many areas.

We must be prepared for it. Viewing nature from a kayak or a raft is no less fascinating! The Biebrza River is one of the last natural rivers in Europe. Canoeing on this river is a real trip into the swamps, to their heart - to wild nature.

During the rafting you can get to know aquatic plants, discover traces of beavers’ existence and see lots of bird species, including black stork, black and white-winged tern or white heron. The Biebrza River is for them a place of rest and feeding. Views along the way will surely be remembered for long by everyone. The thing that can stay in our memory for the longest time is an amazing journey over swamps... in a balloon! Another perspective makes the adrenaline reach its zenith! tLP. Shall we make all our discoveries by day? What about sinking in the dark, getting on a boat and rowing down the river, for example, to the habitats of beavers?

MP: The night life of the valley is waiting time for me.

Waiting for dawn, for the life to wake up. When everything is in the dark, the senses are sharpened... then I can hear the tiniest rustling and even very quiet sounds. In suspense I look at the stain on the horizon, which is getting brighter and brighter, heralding another day. Slowly, here and there, the voices of awakened birds are heard. This is the most wonderful moment of the day for me. At night, I do not disturb sleeping animals, they also need to rest. tLP. And now something about marsh miracles that do not require much luck to be seen... The marigolds flourish just above the surface, in an intensely yellow colour. Their bright carpet, where you can see wading cranes and walking moose, covers the entire swamps of the wetlands. Do you also perceive it this way?

MP: The Biebrza and Narew Rivers are particularly beautiful at the turn of April and May, when the golden marshy meadows appear on the backwaters. Every year, their valleys turn into the realm of wetland birds.

The flooded meadows and pastures bloom with yellow marigolds that create an unparalleled landscape.

Spending quite a lot of time on these fields, we very often witness a great birds’ hustle. Cranes – royal, dignified birds, white herons like angels wading in the backwaters, wonderfully coloured battalions. And the view of a swan that has been landing in the marsh marigolds is truly breathtaking! Lucky people can even see an elk in the most romantic pose: with the marigold in its mouth. I would call these flowers the gold of the Valley, they shimmer in the sunshine, they tempt, it’'s pure delight.

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tLP. Is it possible to find agritourism lodgings and what are the local hosts, in the towns on the Bug and Narew Rivers, like? Are there any tourist agencies here, offering canoeing and themed trips, for example, watching the moose? Do you also take care of showing the tourists around?

MP: As Mikołaj Samojlik – a writer, a great admirer of the Biebrza River and the Biebrza marshes and a traveller – wrote: "to get to know the full beauty of the Biebrza river, you have to come here for a week or two, sink into the river’s mud up to your ass, dive in the river completely dressed up, get wet to the last thread in the ash forest of the Red Swamp or go rafting and spend the night on the river to hear the unique sounds of the nocturnal life of the Biebrza National Park".

All this will allow tourists to stay in agritourism farms in the valleys. The addresses of the farms can be found on the tourist portals of Podlasie or simply by searching the Internet. On the spot, it is sometimes difficult to find such places at first glance, since such accommodations are often located far from the main roads, which is conducive to rest.

Such farms are geared towards active leisure, so bikes, canoes and raft trips are often available on site. The hosts are extremely nice and helpful people.

I met many of them personally and I honestly recommend spending time with them. Dom pod Klonem of the Dombrowski's in Giełczyn is open to people seeking relaxation from the hustle and bustle.

In the evenings, Piotr will treat us with amazing stories about the animals of the Biebrza Park, and Tamara will take care of your palate. Her potato pie, meat-filled potato dumplings and cheese cake are simply legendary. The hosts of Łosinka in Dolistów can organise for us a trip to watch the elks.

The atmospheric home is always filled with the smell of delicious dishes prepared by Beata, the hostess.

When you want to get dirty in the swamp, and then refreshingly use the kayaks, Tadeusz Danilko from Wroceń will provide us with all of that. He knows the Red Swamp reserve as his own pocket. Meetings with amazing animals such as half-wild Polish horses are guaranteed on the farm of Komenda family.

Their shelter Leśna Polana, is located in the heart of the Biebrza Forest Park. It is a real paradise for lovers of wild nature and unique landscapes.

BIEBRZA AND NAREW RIVERS PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAŁGORZATA PAWELCZYK

BIEBRZA AND NAREW RIVERS The Biebrza Marshes are the most precious part of the park.

Biebrza National Park protects vast and relatively untouched fenlands with a unique variety of several communities of plants, rare wetland birds and mammals such as Elk and Beaver and other animals.

The Biebrza wetlands as well as the Narew River valleys are very important centres for birds’ nesting, feeding and resting.

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BIEBRZA AND NAREW RIVERS PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAŁGORZATA PAWELCZYK "At the end, we can indulge in the possession of the Biebrza Witch, which will introduce us to the magical atmosphere of the Biebrza. I will guarantee a successful photographic open air, from which we will return with a lot of climatic photos".

Contact: figoosia@gmail.com FB: Wędrówki Wiatrem Podszyte Małgośki Pawelczyk

BIEBRZA AND NAREW RIVERS PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAŁGORZATA PAWELCZYK

BIEBRZA AND NAREW RIVERS The Biebrza valley supports a unique group of bird species in Europe. About 270 species have been observed here so far, including 181 breeding birds. Among 56 species recorded in Polish Red Data Book of Animals (1992), 17 breed in the Park, e.g.: Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga, Great Snipe Gallinago media, Black Tern Chlidonias niger, Aquatic warbler Acrocephalus paludicola. For some waterfowl species, Biebrza marshes are among the last refuges for the survival of their population in Central Europe.

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BIEBRZA AND NAREW RIVERS PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAŁGORZATA PAWELCZYK

BIEBRZA AND NAREW RIVERS The portion of the river between the junctions with the Western Bug and the Vistula is also known as the Bugonarew, Narwio-Bug, Narwo-Bug, Bugo-Narew, Narwiobug or Narwobug. At the confluence near Zegrze the Bug is 1.6x longer, drains a 1.4x larger basin, and has a slightly higher average discharge (158 m³/s at Wyszków vs 146 m³/s at Pułtusk for the Narew, both ~25 km above the junction). Thus the Bugonarew was often considered part of the Bug river and the Narew a right tributary.

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BIEBRZA AND NAREW RIVERS PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAŁGORZATA PAWELCZYK

BIEBRZA AND NAREW RIVERS Narew River, east-bank tributary of the Vistula River that rises in western Belarus and flows into eastern Poland.

The Narew River is 272 miles (438 km) long and drains an area of more than 10,800 square miles (28,000 square km).

It rises in the Belovezhskaya Forest in western Belarus and flows westward through wooded plains and marshlands.

After entering Poland it swings north near Bialystok before turning west again, after which it is joined by the Biebrza and Pisa rivers. Swinging south again, the Narew receives its largest tributary, the Bug River, before itself joining the Vistula River.

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BIEBRZA AND NAREW RIVERS PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAŁGORZATA PAWELCZYK

BIEBRZA AND NAREW RIVERS There are 486 km marked trails within the Biebrza National Park boundaries.

Water trails along the rivers: Biebrza, Sidra, Jegrznia, Brzozówka, Wissa, the Rudzki Canal, the Augustowski Canal.

Their total length is 223.2 km.

8 bicycle trails – total length 60.1 km 14 hiking trails – total length 164.1 km 10 educational trails – total length 25.2 km

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BIEBRZA AND NAREW RIVERS PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAŁGORZATA PAWELCZYK

BIEBRZA AND NAREW RIVERS On some of them there are observation towers and bridges as well as footbridges that facilitate walking through swampy area.

At the Osowiec railway station in Osowiec there is Field Educational Center with observation towers, footpaths and educational banners. Above mentioned trails are part of marked trails system of Podlaskie Voivodeship, several thousand kilometers long. Campsites in Osowiec-Twierdza, Barwik and Grzędy include tourist shelters. The best equipped is the campsite in Osowiec-Twierdza (with toilets and showers).

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BIEBRZA AND NAREW RIVERS PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAŁGORZATA PAWELCZYK

BIEBRZA AND NAREW RIVERS The most attractive for nature lovers are trails near Gugny village and Barwik natural landmark as well as near Grzędy forester's lodge.

Groups of more than 7 visitors are obliged to hire a licensed Biebrza National Park guide, qualified to serve school trips and tourists from Poland and abroad (languages: English, German, French and Russian).

The most numerous visitors are birdwatchers from around the world and kayakers.

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nature

dancing Cranes

by travel.lovePoland

February is the time of the first spring visitors’ arrivals. A crane is one of the first brave ones.

The tallest bird among those living in Poland, comes back to Poland from its wintering grounds from February to the beginning of May.

The crane is a bird of unique beauty. Tall, straight, with a small head, set on a long, slender neck. A red spot on the head of a crane is a place where the skin is devoid of feathers. Long edges of quills give this bird a look full of dignity; when the wings are folded, they look a little bit like peacock-like, poised tail. The crane looks really dignified, especially when it moves slowly, carefully stepping on its long legs. The crane is doing quite well in Poland. Timid and distrustful, it once chose inaccessible, peaceful wetlands and peat bogs for breeding. It was rare to see it. Recently it changed its behaviour – it got used to the presence of a man, and even learned to use the benefits offered by the neighborhood of human settlements. Thanks to this, its fate has improved.

In recent years, you can often see cranes feeding on farmers' fields. Often, a patch of wet forest or thickets in the vicinity of meadows is enough for a crane to set up a nest. Numerous cranes are found in north-eastern Poland and in Greater Poland.

The crane can come to us when there is still a layer of snow on the fields and meadows. It manages to survive by eating young shoots of winter cereal. In flight, cranes are often confused by less experienced observers with storks.

It happens to be heard that someone saw the storks flying in a v-formation, however – it's a wrong perception.

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Cranes usually fly in v-formed groups, while storks never do it. Moreover, the common crane has a loud trumpeting call, given in flight. This similarity between a crane and a stork concerns only external features and feeding methods. These species belong to completely different orders! On the basis of the similarity of anatomical features, a greater affinity of the crane with a much smaller coot, or corncrake, was noticed so they all got included in one row of cranes.

On arrival, a pair of cranes tries to occupy their territory.

The better it is, the easier it will be to raise the young chicks. Cranes begin a beautiful mating dance, the sight of which really leaves the viewers breathless. The birds walk around each other with outstretched wings, perform unexpected jumps and deep slopes, tossing up tufts of grass. Over time, this spectacle repeats itself less and less often, until it disappears completely, which means that the birds have taken up nesting and incubating eggs.

To see and photograph the dance of cranes is a treat for every photographer-naturalist. However, it is not easy, it requires perseverance, because the cranes are timid and they do not let you get too close. Crane's nest is a mound of reeds and grasses. There are usually two eggs in the nest. Both parents take care of the chicks until they master their flying skills. It lasts about 65-70 days after hatching.

During the care of the chicks, adult birds completely change feathers, and therefore lose their ability to fly during this time. Therefore, during this period, both non-flying chicks and adult birds try to stay in safe, relatively hidden places. Birds obtain sexual maturity at the age of 4 to 6.

Before departure (October-November) groups of cranes gather at staging areas and their flocks, sometimes consist of over two thousand individuals.

At the staging areas, the cranes, dancing and calling one another, match in pairs and fly away in groups until the end of autumn.Â

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interview with dr Radosław Sikora

photo: Marek Kalisiński

by Artur Tureczek, travel.lovePoland

Husaria Book RECOMMENDATION

Biography: Radosław Rafał Sikora (born in 1975 in Międzybórz) – Polish historian and journalist specialising in modern history and the history of military service. Since 2000, a graduate of the Faculty of Mechanics and Energy at the Wrocław University of Technology. In 2010, he obtained a PhD in humanities, in the field of history, at the Academy of Podlasie in Siedlce.

Author of historical studies, published in magazines and internet portals regarding military and historical topics, also the author of books on this subject.

The main subject of our Magazine is tourism but because it is aimed at visitors from outside our borders, we also try to bring the history of Poland and its culture closer to the guests visiting our country.

We talk about Polish history and, above all, its part related to the military issues in their most picturesque edition, namely Husaria (Polish 16th-18th century "winged" cavalry), with Dr Radosław Sikora, a Polish historian, the author of many publications devoted to this military formation. Over the years, the Polish military group called Husaria has become a legend and a kind of romantic myth...

RS: Actually, these legends and myths have evolved.

In the nineteenth century, it was a myth with a positive overtone. In the period of People's Republic of Poland, in turn, it was attacked by creating a new myth about 90 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

hussars shot by the Swedish muskets, about an obsolete formation on the battlefield. From the 1620s, hussars were believed to be sufficient only against the enemy cavalry. tLP. Radosław, you are the author of many important studies on Polish military. How did this adventure begin?

As we know, you studied engineering, and only later history appeared in your scientific biography ...

RS: That’'s right. I encountered the topic of husars for the first time in the 1990s, during my studies at the Wrocław University of Technology. It was a graphically and volumeinconspicuous book by Jerzy Cichowski and Andrzej Szulczyński entitled "Husaria". Inconspicuous, but it made a great impression on me. To this day I have a great fondness for it, although now I can see in it a lot of

tLP. When it comes to people dealing with this subject professionally, I always wonder how the process of shaping the interest in a particular topic looked like.

History is, after all, a vast area, and you have chosen a very specific topic and period of history. Why did you take up this period and especially – why the history of the military service?

RS: I have read about wars since I was a teenager.

At the beginning it was World War II, which I truly hate today. I do not like martyrdom. Maybe I'm too sensitive?

Maybe I'm too empathic? But it's hard for me to see something positive in a lost war, accompanied by a sea of victims and suffering. It does not change the fact that I have always liked to read about armies and wars for some unspecified reasons. I think that's why I caught the ‘Husaria bug’ so easily. There was something in it that still fascinates me. First of all, it really used to win the battles, these were not only "moral successes".

It was extremely effective, but also extremely beautiful.

It is really convincing for me. tLP. In the reviews of your books one may read the statements that these are popular science works and I do not know whether this is a complaint? According to me, it is rather an intentional effect, aimed at reaching more recipients, to popularise the topic. Is this how you approach your writing work?

RS: I write various works. These include also popular science books. Is this some kind of a worse genre? Not for me. I often classify my books like that. In my opinion, this is their great advantage. Contrary to

appearances, writing a strictly historical book is much easier. However, only few people want to read them.

And if I share my knowledge with other, I do not want my works, covered with dust, lying forgotten somewhere on the library shelves. To write a work that, apart from deep historical knowledge, can be of interest to the reader, is a real art. That's what I pay attention to.

I try to make my books not only revealing, that is, bringing a fresh breeze to the topics I raise, to present honest knowledge, but also to be readable. I try to match the former masters of Polish science in this respect, who, unlike a large part of their successors from the second half of the twentieth century, were able to combine one with the other. Zygmunt Gloger, for example, was an invaluable master. Even the encyclopaedia he could write in such a way that you can read it with pleasure today. I pretty often reach for it, for pure relaxation.

HISTORY

mistakes. It fascinated me with the subject and inclined me – even as a modest student – to buy my first armour, sabre, ‘żupan’ (traditional dress of Polish noblemen)… At the same time, I deepened my knowledge by reading these works, to which both authors referred to. When I got to the article by Jerzy Teodorczyk, who in the 1960s introduced the scientific myth about the hussars shot by the Swedes, I worked myself up. I was amazed that it was possible to falsify the image of the clashes of this knighthood so much.

I was even more astonished as two generations of Polish historians thoughtlessly repeated his theses.

That's when I realised that if I do not point out the mistakes myself, nothing will change. The fruit of this "rebellion" was my first book – "The phenomenon of hussars" published in 2003.

tLP. Tell us, please, about your latest publication, delivered to bookshops at the beginning of the year: “Hussars. The pride of Polish arms”. It is probably a continuation or complement to your previous publications, e.g. “Husaria Rzeczpospolitej” (“The hussars of the Republic of Poland”), published in 2014?

Why was it needed? Who did you work on it with?

The graphics layer is excellent...

RS: In 2010, I published "From the History of Hussars".

This was my first popular science book. I tried to introduce the readers to the findings contained in the doctoral thesis ("Tactics of the fight, armament and equipment of hussars in the years 1576-1710"), which I defended in the same year. I was guided by the goal I have already described – to pass my knowledge in a way that is attractive enough to “go into the world“ instead of catching dust on the shelves of libraries or bookstores. I succeeded with that. The book received very positive reviews and its Ukrainian translation even won the title of “The book of the Year” in its category.

"From the history of hussars" is, however a small volume book. I felt the need to supplement it with new topics.

When I was writing, I was approached by the Publishing House, which was looking for such a book. And so, "Hussars". The pride of the Polish arms, was released in really express pace. There is over four times more content in it, and above all, a new graphic layout.

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The very rich iconography includes a hundred dozens of photographs (the vast majority of them were taken

by Marek Kalisiński and Radosław Szleszyński), illustrations (I used old drawings as well as contemporary ones, the author of the latter is Dariusz Wielec), and maps and schemes of my authorship.

It aims to facilitate understanding of the topics described. It also has to show the beauty of hussars.

The latter is possible thanks to cooperation with colleagues from reconstruction groups. At this point I would like to thank them for that. Without them my book would not have attracted such attention.

I will add that I am also a hussar reenactor myself, but more importantly, i can admit that the level of this reconstruction, at the best, may be called satisfactory.

And this requires not only the knowledge of contemporary craftsmen, but also the thick wallets of contracting parties. Imagine that a saber can cost tens of thousands of zlotys, a beautifully reconstructed horse track with a saddle, is an expense of over PLN 20,000. and more decorative armor is worth several thousand zlotys today. And that's just the beginning of spending. It used to be just the same centuries ago when the hussars spent fortunes on their equipment and horses.

Returning to the authors of the photographs.

Marek Kalisiński is the photographer whose amazing

skills allowed to capture this beauty of contemporary reconstruction. Radoslaw Szleszyński is a man who has been going for many years (sometimes we do it together) to various places to take professional photos of objects related to the Old Poland subject matter.

In 2014, we jointly released the album "Husaria Rzeczpospolitej", in which, in addition to numerous photographs, there are also source texts describing the hussars.

I cannot omit Dariusz Wielec, who has been illustrating my books for over a dozen years. He is not an ordinary illustrator. It is extremely important to me that studying Old Polish issues (and not only those) he is also a great expert on the subject. I do not have to lead him, holding his hand, because he knows what and how he should draw. Thanks to this, I have illustrations that are not only nice, but (what is missing in a definite majority of others) factually correct.

At the end I would like to add that the book cover was created on the basis of a painting depicting my friend and reenactor, Leszek Struczyński. He was painted by our mutual good friend, renowned in Poland and in the world, an excellent graphic designer and painter, Mariusz Kozik. Thanks to such a harmonious and professional team, the graphic layout of the book is truly unique. Not only beautiful, but also substantively excellent.

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Andrzej Ciosański photo: Marek Kalisiński

Andrzej Ciosański has been associated with horses since his youth, and – as he says – horses have always been associated with the history of Poland. The passion for horses and interest in history were the main reasons for which he founded the first knighthood in Poland and was involved in knights’ tournaments. After one of them he became the truest knight, according to the feudal law.

He is now a castellan, and officially - the curator of the medieval castle Chojnik near Jelenia Góra.

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Cezary Zawadziński photo: Marek Kalisiński Cezary Zawadzinski, as a hussar rittmeister.

On a daily basis, the president of a multi-billion company in the automotive industry.

In his free time, an activist for the Polish Diaspora in America, as well as a co-founder and an intendant of the Hussar Banner in Chicago.

When chain-mail armour was changed to plate, shields were evidently deemed superfluous.

This standard was popularised so effectively that from the early 17th century onward the hussar formation was considered to be heavy, not light cavalry, and so it remained throughout the 17th and almost the entire 18th century.

The hussars ceased to wear armour only in the late 1770s. The first two centuries of existence of the hussar formation were the period of its glory and astounding military achievements.

Over that time, the hussars fought with every type of enemy formation then existing in Europe. They vanquished the Western-European pikemen, musketeers and the elite of the cavalry, the cuirassiers. They vanquished the Ottoman janissaries and spahis, as well as the imperial elite cavalry, the deli warriors.

They vanquished the roving Tatars, Muscovite streltsy, boyar cavalry, foot and mounted Cossacks and Hungarian hussars. They led effective charges against cannons. Breasts of their horses felled fences and wagons.

At Klushino, the hussars achieved a nearly impossible feat, unprecedented in the history of cavalry: they managed to pass the kobylica, anti-cavalry obstacles, and crush the pikemen hiding behind. For two centuries, the celebrated riders won many a glorious triumph. In the entire world’s history, rarely has a formation stayed at the apex of its power for so long.

Yet all things come to an end, and so did the glory days of the hussars. This merits some sorrow and regret. Cuirassier cavalry was still useful even in the Napoleonic era, and in Europe cuirassier troops survived until the First World War. By then, however, the glory once won by the lances of Polish hussars had been inherited by the uhlans.

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Famous battles

1572, Moldavia 400 hussars routed 1000 deli warriors, members of the elite Turkish cavalry whose appellation, “madmen”, was owed to their exceptional courage in battle. To enter this elite troop, a man had to fight and survive ten duels.

1577, Lubieszów The hussars routed a six times stronger Danzig force, including German pikemen.

1581, Mogilev 200 hussars prevented a 30,000 strong Tatar/Russian army from storming the city for seven hours. When a unit of 300 horses came in their aid, the combined Polish force chased the enemy away.

1605, Kircholm The hussars routed a three times stronger Swedish force, including pikemen.

1610, Klushino (Kłuszyn) The hussars routed a seven times stronger Russian/ Swedish force, including pikemen (the enemy preponderance may have been much larger if the camp followers and peasants marching with the army are taken into account). The Swedish force included bands enlisted in England, Scotland, France, Germany, the Netherlands and Finland. After this battle, Poles occupied the Kremlin in Moscow and the son of the king of Poland was elected tsar.

1629, Trzciana

1621, Khotyn (Chocim) A gigantic battle that witnessed the largest assembly of hussars in history (ca. 8,000) and which engaged some 300,000 men on both sides. During this battle, on 7th September 1621, 600 hussars in a single charge routed 10,000 Ottomans.

A twice-larger Swedish force of King Gustav II Adolf, by many historians considered to have been one of the most outstanding military leaders in history, was routed.

1660, Kutyszcze A hussar troop of 140 horses in a single charge routed a several times larger assembly of Cossack/Russian forces: ca.700 Russian cuirassiers and at least 1000 of Cossack infantry.

1683, Vienna The imperial capital was saved from the Turkish invasion.

During the breaking charge, the hussars went at the head of the entire Christian army.

1694, Hodów 400 hussars and heavy cavalry for several hours successfully defended themselves in a village of Hodów against a hundred times stronger troop of Tatars. table of facts by dr Radosław Sikora, translated by Klaudyna Michałowicz graphic: travel.lovePoland

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Artur Stanisław Starosta photo: Marek Kalisiński Manicipium Mariae (Virgin Mary Hussar Banner). Privately, the owner of the company recreating historical saddles.

He also made the armor he wears himself".

Imagine the Past Photography by

MAREK KALISIŃSKI an interview by Travel.LovePoland Magazine, Artur Tureczek

We are talking to Marek Kalisiński, a photographer documenting 'the past', the author of the photos for the book of Dr Radosław Sikora 'Husaria. Duma Polskiego Orężą” [“The Hussars. The pride of Polish arms”].

tLP: Is it possible to close you in the statement: "A photographer well-recognised in the world of historical photography and, above all, a person fascinated with historical reconstructions"?

MK: I would admit that since I remember, I have always had a camera with me that I used most often to preserve or capture the world of nature. I have been dealing with historical performers for a short time and I do not know if I can say that I am recognisable in the world of historical photography, but I can say that to some extent I am recognisable among historical reconstructors of many nationalities, even from such distant corners of the world as New Zealand and Chile.

I admit that historical shows have certain magic in them.

Well prepared and in the right place, they can move us into an epoch they reconstruct and then we can feel like we were in the midst of those events. tLP: Marek, you photograph and document not only Polish historical events, but you also travel with a group of Jomsborg enthusiasts, an organization that recreates the Viking culture. I conclude that your historical and photographic interests go far beyond Polish traditions?

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MK: That's true, I will say even more – I started my photographic adventure in Wolin, from this group.

Wolin (Jomsborg) is a specific place, not only the Vikings, but also Slavs meet there, and I met there even one Howk Indian. We can see there lots of performers of various professions from that period, but the greatest impression is usually associated with the fights of warriors, or rather a battle, where 800 warriors use to face one another. Dents on the helmets show that it is not only fun and you have to prove war-mighty and show your fortitude. I will say it once again, it makes a huge impression. Of course, if I had only time and opportunity, I would like to photograph performers of various cultural circles and periods. tLP: Let me ask you about the phenomenon of reconstruction events. They appeared in Poland more than a dozen years ago. Their members meet at rallies, fight during bloodless battles, try to recreate the everyday life of their ancestors, dressed in original outfits, or as close as possible to those from years ago. In my opinion, such a play is not just about playing.

photo: Marek Kalisiński

Jarosław Struczyński He rebuilt and developed the Gniew castle. In the wings of the castle he created facilities for the Archaeological Museum in Gdańsk. He established the Dormitory and the Castle Chapel. He is the initiator the Knighthood of Poland. The castellan on the castle of Gniew.

He introduced numerous tourist attractions there by creating various events, performances and historical feasts. He implements numerous new cultural and historical projects in Gniew. He initiated the unification of Polish Associations taking part in historical reconstructions, which resulted in the creation of the Polish Knights' Chapter, of which he was the marshal. He organizes one of the most recognizable knights’ events in the world Gniew Castle International Equestrian Tournament of King Jan III Sobieski.

Reconstruction events must also build historical awareness of the viewers. Where did this phenomenon come from and why it's so popular? Does it satisfy a certain kind of need for close contact with something that has already passed away?

for the photo session, lived in different parts of Poland, and were the meetings of the reconstruction groups at historical shows, e.g. in Gniew, Lębork or on the parade on the occasion of the Polish Army Day.

MK: I do not know who the precursor of historical shows is, but I think that the re-enactment is this and that, and it can also be fun and passion – anyone who wants to take part can participate in it. In part, it may be fulfilment of our childhood dreams. After all, everyone wanted to become a sailor, an Indian, and a knight in this period of our life, and it is possible to make the list even longer. And when we gain more passion and knowledge in this subject, we can go with it outside and show it to others and transmit our experience in a visual way to the viewers. Depending on what is being presented and where, in many cases, apart from being an eyewitness of a spectacle, the viewer can take part in a given event. And after the main performance, the viewer can ask for details and look at the various accessories from a given era, which is educational in nature. As you noticed, it is an amazing experience for many viewers as they could see and experience something that has already passed.

tLP: How would you define the form of the book? What is the role of images in this publication? It is said that we live in a world where we use images to communicate more often than texts…

tLP: I admit that I am not a specialist in the field of historical reconstructions. Undoubtedly, like many recipients of this type of events, I can see their value and specific beauty.

It was a big surprise for me that during the search on the web of information about them I came across a lot of critical articles and that they were in the top search results. It is alleged that "reconstructions are absolutely not able to bring to light the horror of facts, which they tend to recreate and thus force into the minds of young people completely false ideas of war, martyrdom and suffering". What do you think of these negative opinions, how much do you agree with them and what value do these events have for you?

MK: I try to take pictures using only natural light, because I personally like it more. As you mentioned, I use different rooms for this purpose, which have contact with external light, to achieve certain lighting effects, especially on people portrayed. Because most of my photos are taken where the performers reside at the moment, they use objects that are nearby, i.e. it can be a stable, church gate or other building, tent, etc., e.g. the portraits of hussars for the book I took in the stable and in the church gate.

MK: Let me not answer this question. I would have to deepen the subject, but I don't really want to go into arguments... tLP: Because the pretext for our conversation was originally a book by dr Radosław Sikora “Husaria“ on which you worked as well, I would also like to ask you about your cooperation…

How did you meet each other, and how did your collaboration with the book come about... probably it was not the first common topic or project?

As it often happens nowadays, we met with Radek through social media, where he saw my pictures of historical performers on my profile. I think he liked them because he invited me to cooperate. After a few phone calls, I knew what he was expecting from me, and I showed him how it could be done. This is our first joint project, it required us to focus on the topic, because the pictures had to be taken by the end of September 2018, and the reconstructors who were chosen 100 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

MK: The book is not an album. The photographs are just an addition, which will allow the reader to partially illustrate the issues included in the book. In addition to the pictures, in the book there are also a lot of graphics and paintings of different painters that bring the epoch closer to the reader. I think that both forms of communication are important; depending on the context, time and situation, we will use one or the other form. tLP: It is always interesting to hear about curiosities, less known episodes from the preparation of such a publication.

You told me, among other things, that the stable was the best stage for the photo session...

tLP: Lots of your photographs are portraits. What makes you feel interested in a man and his portrait? Does the portrait have more to convey than a wide stage, or does it give a chance to preserve and use originality?

Portrait is a completely different story. Beginning the adventure with historical performers, I realised that a problem arose. My ambition. while taking these types of photos, was to achieve the climate of a given epoch, preserving the historicity of a given place, but in many cases it turned out to be not possible. If I wanted to achieve a wider plan for the picture, there were various objects in the frame that were not historical and I still had to narrow the plan, so that I could only take a portrait. By accident the portrait has become my passion. Wider scenes reveal a completely different atmosphere and looking in the eyes and into the soul of a man gives completely different feelings, as many people have already written about before me. I think that the soul of a man in a historical costume is completely different from the soul of the same man without this outfit, when he or she wears contemporary clothing.

Radosław Szleszyński photo: Marek Kalisiński

Warrant officer Radosław Szleszyński as a hussar comrade from the mid-17th century.

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Wiesław Wojciechowski photo: Marek Kalisiński

The Hussarian Company of Chełmińska Land In the photo as a hussar comrade.

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Paweł Michowski photo: Marek Kalisiński

Lieutenant commander Paweł Michowski.

For the purposes of the hussar reconstructions, he crafted on his own the armour he wears.

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photo: Marek Kalisiński

Paweł Moczkowski The Hussarian Company of the Marshall of Pomorskie Province Paweł Moczkowski, on a daily basis an entrepreneur in the construction industry.

In the photo as a hussar comrade from the 18th century.

The problem of hussars, just like any cavalry, was that it could not fight in any terrain conditions. Ramparts, Spanish goats, broad ditches and other obstacles prevented cavalry charges. Therefore, although in the open field the hussars were second to none, the intelligent opponent was able to adjust his tactics to this situation and instead of fighting in the field, could hide behind obstacles.

photo: Marek Kalisiński

Przemysław Jabłoński The Hussarian Company of the Marshall of Pomorskie Province Przemysław Jabłoński as a hussar comrade. Professionally, as a re-constructor, associated with the castle of Gniew.

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photo: Marek Kalisiński

Leszek Struczyński The Hussarian Company of the Marshall of Pomorskie Province Leszek Struczyński as a light hussar, known also as a "petyhorec". Members of this type of cavalry often used to wear chain mails instead of amour. However, they also used lances, although a little shorter then typical hussars' lances, but of the same type.

photo: Marek Kalisiński

Jacek Oleszkiewicz Jacek Oleszkiewicz, an entrepreneur on a daily basis. In the photo as a hussar comrade from the last decades of the sixteenth century.

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Brief History of Polish Hussars the Winged cavalry

by Radosław Sikora, translated by Klaudyna Michałowicz Instead of ostrich feathers, the husaria men wore wooden arcs attached to their armour at the back and raising over their heads. These arcs, together with bristling feathers sticking out of them, were dyed in various colours in imitation of laurel branches or palm leaves, and were a strangely beautiful sight to behold...

Jędrzej Kitowicz (1728–1804).

The hussar force was the pride and glory of Poland and Lithuania. For two centuries it spearheaded the armies of the Two Nations, leading them from victory to victory. It was a force that often routed far more numerous enemy troops, and was successful in defence against armies a hundred to hundred-fifty times more preponderant. According to the opinions of 17th-century observers, the hussar force was the best, and the most beautiful, cavalry in the world. It was the envy of foreign monarchs and an object of admiration to foreigners. This is amply confirmed by sources quoted in the first part of this album; now, suffice it to cite the views of two Swedish kings who confronted the hussars. In 1626, Gustav II Adolf is recorded to have said: “Oh, if I had such a cavalry! I would camp with my infantry in Constantinople this year”. Carl X Gustav declared in 1655: “If I had some ten thousand of such soldiers, I would expect to easily conquer not only Turkey, but the entire world”. The hussar corps remains beyond doubt the most effective formation in the history of Poland, as well as one of the most effective in military history worldwide. The beauty and uniqueness of its appearance is still found fascinating, of which the vigorously developing historical reenactment movement provides ample evidence. Events in which the hussars take part are very popular, and photographs of hussar reenactors scattered over the Internet are invariably greeted with applause and admiration. This album has been written with the reenactors, as well as with everyone curious to know the real aspect of hussar corps, in mind. It is a collection of opinions and conceptions regarding this force dating from the period of its existence. The works and descriptions written after its decline have been rejected; in this way, we wished to distance ourselves from the stereotypical image of a hussar: a rider with two huge wings curving forward above his head, who is supposed to have taken part in the famed Polish victories.

This image was replicated by the 19th and 20th-century paintings, which in turn provided models for the Polish and foreign film productions. It is true that such hussar corps did exist; but only towards the end of its long history – not when it entered the Kremlin in Moscow or defended Vienna, but in the 18th century. It was called the “funerary troop” then, because it was most often seen at funerals of various dignitaries. Based on the presently known sources and illustrations, even the restricted material it does present makes it possible to revise the hitherto accepted dating of 108 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

the so-called classical hussar armour. It can now be stated with all certainty that it does not date from the 17th, but only from the 18th century. This is confirmed by several details, for instance by the fact that openwork hearts in the cheekpieces of szyszak helmets, which are typical to the “classical hussar armour”, appear only in paintings dating from the period of the formation’s decline. This “classical hussar armour”is therefore not a product of the 17th century, but of the times when the formation was already called the funerary troop. In fact, it is not surprising that, after the decline of the hussars in the era of King Stanislaus Augustus Poniatowski, pieces of this armour landed in various collections of military gear: withdrawn from army supplies, hundreds of suits of hussar armour were relatively easily available to collectors.

Hence large numbers of very simple, virtually primitively made suits have survived to our times. Perhaps armourers in the Commonwealth of the latter 18th century were less skilled than before; perhaps the hussar comrades were less affluent or just less ready to incur the high costs of serving in the prestigious formation 1; in any case, it is a fact that blued or etched suits of armour (i.e. ones made with the use of advanced decorative techniques), with bracers [karwasze] and helmets decorated with gold or silver and precious stones, are found in the 17th-century inventories or seen in images showing the hussars. In the 18th century, however, hussars and their commanders were provided with pieces of armour produced by village smiths from Świątniki Górne near Cracow and decorated with brass, which was cheaper than gold or silver. It is precisely those very simple pieces, familiar from modern museum collections, that can be seen in 18thcentury paintings, and their elements appear in hussar inventories; a case in point are “bracers with hand-pieces, set in brass, from Świątniki” which belonged to the hussar comrade Stanisław Ważyński in 1712. Unfortunately, as the time progressed, those miserable suits of armour were provided with a genealogy that was far more ancient, if based on incredibly weak premises.

It may be guessed that a not inconsiderable role in this was played by the owners’ wishful thinking: they preferred to believe they owned armour which used to belong to their noble ancestors or was worn during a memorable battle rather than admit they were in possession of a much newer piece, which at best may have seen service during various ceremonies in the period of the hussars’ decline.

Hussar half-armour Digitalisation: RDW MIC, Małopolska's Virtual Museums project public domain

Dimensions: height: 80 cm, width: 55 cm Museum: The National Museum in Kraków Main Building Gallery: Arms and Uniforms in Poland Technique: struck, engraving, chasing, forging Material: leather, steel, brass sheet Object copyright: The National Museum in Kraków

The armour is made of iron sheet; at the edges and faulds it is lined with brass borders covered with repoussé and stamped pearls. Under the rivets there are laid brass rosettes decorated in the same way as the borders.

A helmet has a semi-circular skull, a peak with a nasal bar, a fauld neck guard and cheek pieces with a heart-shaped cut. A five-fauld breastplate with a fishbone in the middle tied with two leather straps.

Certainly those who sold such suits were interested in giving them an ancient genealogy; after all, a “Battle of Vienna armour”, or one dating from the period of the hussar glory, the 17th-century, in general, was far more valuable than one produced when the warriors were but a shadow of their noble past.

The distinctive element of the hussars’ appearance, their wings, still kindles the greatest interest. There is now sufficient evidence to state that wings were used not only at parades, but also in battle, to impress as much as to frighten the enemies. It has been demonstrated that horses bolt at their sight. It must be remembered, however, that wings had diverse forms and that they could be affixed in various ways; hence, when they are mentioned in the written sources, this is not necessarily in the shape known only from as late as the 18th century, that is the huge, forward-curving arcs. Illustrations found in this album clearly demonstrate that in the 16th and 17th century the hussars’ wings were shaped differently. It must also be added that the fact of the formation making use of wings does not necessarily mean they were worn by each and every company or by all soldiers in a regiment; wings were not an obligatory element of hussar gear. It is also difficult to say when exactly they came in use. It is a fact that military significance of feathering had been mentioned in Poland already by the first half of the 16th century. In Stanisław Łaski’s military treatise entitled "Spraw i postępków rycerskich i przewagi opisanie krótkie z naukami w tej zacnej zabawie potrzebnymi", written in the years 1544 – 1545, it has been noted that “It may happen that, by the hetman’s intention and care, the troops must needs be adorned, arrayed, feathered, so that a small band seems larger”.

Hussar half-armour Digitalisation: RDW MIC, Małopolska's Virtual Museums project public domain

Place of creation: Poland Dimensions: height: bascinet – 34cm; breastplate – 51.8cm; backplate – 44.7cm; bevor – 14,8cm; brassards (1) – 38.4cm; brassards (2) – 39.4cm; wings – 98.8cm, length: bascinet – 42cm; bevor – 29cm, width: bascinet – 21cm; breastplate – 36.5cm; backplate – 35.5cm; bevor – 29.2cm; brassards (1) – 27.9cm; (2) – 25.1cm Museum: Wawel Royal Castle – State Art Collection Castle Armoury Technique: forging, riveting, die cutting, punching Material: brass, leather, steel, velvet, bird feathers

The Hussar half-armour harmoniously combines both Western European and Eastern traditions. The presented half-armour consists of a breastplate, a backplate with wings, a bevor, a pair of brassards, and a bascinet. All elements are decorated with brass trim and small stamped circles.

The hussar force owed its accomplishments to a combination of factors. The most important of those were the quality of command and quality (morale, training, physical predisposition to service) of men who enlisted in the corps, who in addition spent enormous sums on best horses and weapons. The latter were also exceptional. The Polish and Lithuanian hussars used lances sometimes exceeding 6 metres in length, with they would crush even pikemen armed with long-shafted pikes. By the same token, they crushed the arguments of Western-European military theoreticians, who maintained that horses would stop when faced with a “forest” of pikes. The hussars’ mounts not only did not stop, but even rammed into pikes or fences, crushing them flat with their breasts; this happened for instance at Klushino (Kłuszyn) in 1610. The horses paid with blood and lives for this, but their sacrifice made the Polish and Lithuanian knights accomplish things deemed downright impossible.

Limited efficiency of contemporary firearms also contributed to the hussars’ successes. In spite of both contemporary and today’s opinions, musket volleys were embarrassingly inaccurate; hence the hussar charge could reach a firing enemy unit and vanquish it with lances.

It was not the development of firearms, but the infantry’s making use of obstacles that a mounted charge could not overcome, for instance the chevaux de frise, that spelt an end to the hussars’ successes. Safe behind such obstacles, foot soldiers could fire at the charging riders with no fear of the consequences; a case in point is the Battle of Kliszów in 1702. The crisis of this cavalry formation was also caused by the drastic decline of morale during a civil war, into which the Northern War, fought in the early 18th century, evolved in the Commonwealth.

Hussar bascinet Digitalisation: RDW MIC, Małopolska's Virtual Museums project public domain

Place of creation: Poland Dimensions: height: 34cm, length: 48.5cm, width: 20.5 cm Museum: Wawel Royal Castle – State Art Collection Castle Armoury Technique: forging, polishing, riveting, cutting Material: leather, steel Acquired date: reclaimed from the State Ermitage Museum in Leningrad in 1924

A Hussar bascinet was a type of helmet commonly used by the troops of the Polish Hussars, similar to the pappenheimers used in Western Europe. There were a few variants of this helmet: with a tip on the top, a high crest, or fan-like wings on the skull.

The quality of the formation declined with the decline in the quality of men who served therein. It did not rise again, even though circumstances after that war were favourable, and so the hussar corps finally vanished from the Polish and Lithuanian army.

The hussar force existed in Poland for nearly three hundred years (16th to 18th century), changing considerably over this period. Initially, it was a light lancer cavalry carrying protective shields; apart from those, it either did not use protective weapons at all or wore pancerz, which at that time meant various types of chain-mail, plate or mail-and-plate armour; plate armour was not called pancerz. The first extant records of the Polish army having hussars wearing plate armour (with, in addition, lances, shields and visored helmets) date from 1531, that is three decades later. Such soldiers were an exception then; but after the next three decades, in 1561, while enlisting cavalry for war, a provision was made that “They must have plate armour [i.e. plate breastplates and backplates], not pancerz”. This does not mean that at this point the entire Polish and Lithuanian hussar troop changed its armour to plate; the process extended over a few decades. In that period even a single regiment may have included various types of hussars, wearing plate (as, for instance, the entire 150-horse regiment of Mikołaj Mielecki in 1574), mail or no protective armour at all. They usually carried specially shaped shields, in Poland sometimes called Albanian. The next impulse for the transformation of the hussar units into heavy cavalry was provided by enlistment on behalf of King Stephen Báthory in 1576. The standard prescribed then remained in force after the king’s death; on 7th March 1587 the gentry arrived to Warsaw for consultations decided, among other issues, on the manner of enlisting hussars: “Those soldiers who are to serve in the hussar style are to have good horses, they shall mount their horses for battle armed with a lance, in armour, in bracers, in a szyszak, with a short firearm and a sabre, an estoc or a falchion. [...] And the supply the scribe is to provide shall be as follows: whoever brings a hundred horse to service, is to be given a standby horse, and a drummer, a trumpeter and a standard-bearer to be chartered for him. Remainder of horses to be used as mounts for good servants: ten horses for a rota-master. A comrade: six hoses at the most, or less, so that the regiment gets more dense with comrades.”

Photos: Łukasz Sowiński

The descent of the Holy Spirit - Pentecost Zielone Świątki Photos: Łukasz Sowiński www.facebook.com/sowinskifoto

The descent of the Holy Spirit – Pentecost – is one of the oldest holidays of the Church, introduced in the third century of Christianity. Pentecost is to remind us of the joyful moment when the Holy Spirit came down to the Apostles gathered in the Cenacle. The apostles began to speak in many languages then in order to be able to proclaim the truth of faith throughout the world.

The feast at the beginning of Christianity was known under its Greek name – pentekoste – which means the fiftieth day after Easter. It was celebrated by Jews in the Old Testament times as a thanksgiving harvest festival.

In Poland, Pentecostal customs originated from pagan times. Originally, they referred to the rituals associated with the holiday of farmers and shepherds – mainly various folk games and home decorating with greenery.

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In the Middle Ages the church forbade practices that were the remnants of paganism, but agreed to decorate houses with flowers and branches of trees. In the Christian tradition, solemn processions, with singing and prayers with a request to God for good harvest became a part of the celebrations. Formerly, the holiday lasted three days: from Sunday to Tuesday.

Days decorated with greenery – this way they used to call Pentecost ceremony, which falls in the most beautiful time of the year, when nature blossoms and delights with the ubiquitous greenery of fields, meadows, orchards and forests. The houses and farmsteads were decorated with birch twigs – they were put behind doors, window frames or paintings.

It was also symbolic to decorate houses with calamus – it has been spread on the floors in rooms. This plant was believed to have the power to repel evil, as it was said that the time of Pentecost was the period of witches' activities who wanted to harm people, damage crops in the fields and hurt farm animals. People used also to make special torches which were used while running around the fields – their smoke was to protect the crops against hails, and their ashes – to give better yield.

There were also many games of a matrimonial nature in the folk tradition related to Pentecost. The girls in the Eastern Beskids would jump over the bonfire on St. John's eve – those of them who jumped unscathed, were believed to get married soon. In Podlasie, the girls dressed their hair with wreaths of flowers and chose their queen. Later, they went round the houses, with wishes and singing joyful songs.

Photos: Łukasz Sowiński

In Silesia, on the eve of Pentecost, the boys placed a high perch in front of the houses of selected girls with a bouquet of flowers hung on it. In the area of Poznań, the popular entertainment was so-called ‘maj’ – stripped pine trunk, which the boys brought from the forest and put in the middle of the village. Later it was decorated – and if any of the bachelors climbed to the top and collected everything (sometimes even some trifles needed to be stolen), he asked the girls to buy them back from him.

In Mazovia, they celebrated so-called beef or horse wedding. At that time, the animal was dressed in funny costumes and a dummy with a wooden sword was put on it, while the villagers called out "roduć". The decorated ox or horse wandered around the villages.

Photos: Łukasz Sowiński

On the first day of Pentecost, the shepherds at dawn would take the cattle to the pastures. Whoever reached it first, was called the "king". The one who brought the cattle as the last one had to look after the animals for the whole day, for everyone. A common custom on the second day of Pentecost was "burning bonfires" (practiced to this day in Podhale and Sub-Carpathian region).

IN 2019 THE THE DESCENT OF THE HOLY SPIRIT - PENTECOST IS CELEBRATED ON Sunday, 9th June Photos: Łukasz Sowiński

Painting on the glass “Christ in the grave” from Orawa Elaborated by the editorial team of Małopolska's Virtual Museums

Orava is the traditional name of a region situated in northern Slovakia (as Orava) and partially also in southern Poland (as Orawa).The Polish part of Orava belongs to the Lesser Poland, to the Nowy Targ County,

Author: unknown Date of production: 18th century Place of creation: Orawa Dimensions: height: 54 cm, width: 42.5 cm Orawa Ethnographic Park Museum in Zubrzyca Górna

with the main village of the Polish side being Jabłonka.

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Paintings on glass are painted in the opposite order to those painted on canvas or paper; first, contours are outlined, then they are filled with details, and finally colours are applied.

Owing to their vivid colour and durability, paintings made with this technique competed with woodcuts, which were very popular in folk culture and could be often encountered in farmyard and rural cottages; therefore, their creators began to combine woodcut with painting on glass (for example, they painted only a part of the glass surface; from under the rest of the glass pane, a piece of wood engraving was visible).

The origins of folk paintings on glass can be traced back to the middle-class paintings; in the 17th century, glassworks in Germany, the Czech Republic, Austria and Silesia produced this type of pictures on a large scale, at first for burghers, and then also for customers from the countryside.

Marian and Christological motifs, along with depictions of saints were predominant in folk paintings on glass (secular themes were rare). The tradition of creating colourful depictions on glass dates back to antiquity.

In the Middle Ages, coloured glass was used, among others, to create parts of reliquaries and to decorate altars. Decorative objects made with this method became more popular in the 16th century, when glassworks began to be established in Europe. The increased availability of paintings on glass in bourgeois circles helped this form to begin to penetrate rural areas.

Another reason was the popularisation of the Augsburg paintings painted with oils on glass during this period.

Painting on glass was popular from the late 18th century until the end of the 19th century. Images of this kind were common throughout the Carpathians.

Due to the fact that at the end of the 19th century, in the areas inhabited by highlanders, there were few churches, the presence of images of patron saints in houses seemed natural. Wandering painting traders who climbed the mountains and reached villages situated even in the highest regions were called obraźnik.

The sale of paintings took the form of a ritual. First, after entering the house, obraźnik prayed with the members of the household to the paintings they already had. Then he read relevant fragments

of the Gospel and praised the benefits of praying to the images he was selling. After the transaction was completed, the trader hung the newly bought image on the wall by himself. In this way, it was very difficult for the peasants to refuse the purchase and their home collection of paintings expanded almost naturally.

This form is characterised by a simple, flat drawing, which does not create a sense of a three-dimensional, static composition (except for scenes with highland robbers, which include some dynamics of motion), as well as the compositional symmetry. In depictions of saints, they can usually be recognised due to their attributes. Plant motifs are also typical of paintings on glass. Characters often have strongly highlighted cheeks (red circles).

Glass panes used for painting often constituted the production waste of glassworks (they had small bubbles or numerous imperfections). However, defects in the materials proved to be an advantage in the hands of an artist, providing an element of uniqueness in the work (bubbles actually enhanced the visual effect).

Usually, small panes were also used as it was easier for traders to transport them through the mountains.

As L. Lepszy wrote in 1921, the paintings on glass which can be seen in the museum space lost in some way a connection with their natural environment; that is, in the space of a dark peasant chamber, illuminated only by smoky candle light, they encouraged the household members to reflect, reinforced their religion, and became a part of the highlander’s soul and consciousness. The flickering coloured patches on the glass hid a lot more in itself and gave a sense of communion with the sacred.

An additional argument supporting the attractiveness of this form was its longer life-span (paintings on the glass wiped with a cloth recovered its former glory, unlike paintings on canvas which faded over time).

Painting on glass, unlike painting on canvas, where corrections are possible, does not tolerate random brush strokes (it is hard to hide mistakes here), so creators often underlay the glass pane with a previously prepared cardboard drawing. text and photos thanks to: Orawa Ethnographic Park Museum in Zubrzyca Górna

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Easter

Make Natural Dyed Eggs with Herb Relief Patterns Easter is approaching quickly. Enjoy a brief tutorial on dying eggs using natural dyes and herb relief patterns.

First: boil chopped up red cabbage, onion skins and chopped beets each in their own pot (covered with enough water that when you add the eggs later they will be covered).

Let them boil for about 20min. and then let cool a bit.

Add four tablespoons of vinegar to each pot.

While these pots are boiling up prep your eggs.

Use a pair of nylons and cut the toes out a few 116 TRAVEL.LOVEPOLAND

centimeters to make a pocket, then place pieces of any interesting herb or flower petal in the nylons around the egg and then tie off tightly with a twist tie.

You can use dill, parsley, mint, clover or any small leaves. Try to get the leaves separated, it will give a better effect.

Once they are ready, place them in your dye of choice and bring back up to a slow boil for about twenty minutes.

You can let them sit in the dye bath longer if you want more vibrant colours.

photo:Â By rock the stock, travel.lovePoland Magazine licence

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EASTER TABLE, ŻUREK Easter traditions in many countries different significantly from one another. In Poland, first of all, we associate it with Easter Palms decorated with catkins and boxwood, as well as with special food, blessed on Saturday to be eaten for Easter Sunday festive breakfast. Easter is also known for sour rye soup, prepared by every family in a slightly different, but always delicious way.

In the past times, the sour soup was consumed throughout Lent. But it was a light version of it, without sausages or other meat additives. It did not have this distinctive taste we love so much now, so people stopped consuming it pretty early. It was usually served as a first breakfast dish on Easter as a symbol of the end of Lent. There was a tradition to celebrate Resurrection, called "the funeral of sour soup" – i.e. pouring it out.

Easter traditions have changed over the years.

Currently, on the Easter table, the sour rye soup occupies a prime position. It is considered an exquisite gourmet soup, a culinary delicacy. It really became one of the Easter traditions in Poland. This sour soup is a must for the Easter table. It has a strong smell of smoked bacon and marjoram, it's sour and aromatic.

It both warms up and turns up the great appetite!

see 01

LEONARDO DA VINCI'S "LADY WITH AN ERMINE"

04

National Museum, Main Building Al. 3 Maja 1, Kraków Admission 8/10zł, family ticket 17zł www.mnk.pl

02

HALA KOSZYKI Eighteen fabulous restaurant concepts, eleven fantastic groceries and service premises Warsaw’s regained its lost pearl.

Koszykowa 63, Warszaw

MUSEUM OF CARICATURE Kozia Str. 11, Warsaw Price/Additional Info Admission 7/4zł, family ticket 15zł.Tue free.

MUSEUM OF ART IN ŁÓDŹMS² Ogrodowa Str. 19. Łódź Admission to permanent exhibits 15/8zł, students 26 and under pay just 1zł. Thu is free for all exhibits.

05

THE WROCŁAW LAMPLIGHTER Wrocław is one of only two cities in Europe that still employs a lamplighter. Free 111

photo: Hala Koszyki, press materials

visit and

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events WED, 20th SAT, 23rd March 2019

Amberif, Gdańsk

MON, 22nd April 2019

Emaus Fair, Kraków

FRI, 26th TUE, 30th April 2019

Jazz on the Oder, Wrocław

SAT 11th SUN 12th May 2019

Warsaw Oldtimer Show

International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones. It is the world’s most important amber exhibition in Europe.

Here business meets art, creative ideas are born, the latest trends in jewellery design are presented.

Emaus, named after the biblical village ('Emmaus' in English), is a traditional Kraków odpust (indulgence) that takes place in Salwator every Easter Monday.

Kraków's is by far the largest and most popular, surviving without pause since at least the 16th century.

Jazz on the Oder stands out as one of the oldest and most respected, right up there with Warsaw's Jazz Jamboree and Kraków's All Saints' Day Jazz Festival.

Warsaw Oldtimer show will be dedicated both to the automotive classic lovers, collectors as well as investors searching for a good opportunity to invest their capital.

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