ISSUE FIVE
Assam Cruise India beckons!
PLAN
How to survive the ‘long haul’; choosing a tailor in Asia; find the colourful shophouses of Singapore.
DESTINATIONS
Amazing world train journeys; New Zealand’s TranzAlpine; Portugal; City of York, UK.
CRUISING
Along India’s Brahmaputra river; cruising the Rhone in France.
SINGAPORE – LORD HOWE ISLAND – INDIA - FRANCE
FUN FACT: GLASGOW’S LUNCHTIME
A Play, A Pie and A Pint is the bedrock of Glasgow theatre! For just a few pounds (around $20), you get a Pie and a Pint and a lunchtime Play here. This is the UK's most successful lunchtime theatre – and a new play every week, Mondays to Saturdays on a tiny stage at Òran Mór in Glasgow. This year will celebrate 500 plays produced since founder David MacLennan’s idea proved inspirational. Arguably the best cultural event in the UK! There is a new lunchtime play every week, running from Mondays to Saturdays at 1pm. Visit: playpiepint.com
Make one day today
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Contents PLAN
04 Look up to Singapore’s shophouses
06 Opera at Uluru 08 Tips for surviving the
‘long haul’ 12 How to choose a tailor in Asia
DESTINATIONS
MY DISCOVERIES TEAM General Manager Janeece Keller
INSPIRATION
32 Swim school on Lord
Howe Island 38 Six truly colourful destinations 42 Celebrating the baguette
CRUISING
46 Antarctica cruising 14 Who put the Port into Portugal 48 Cruising in France 20 Exploring the UK city of York 54 Along the Brahmaputra in India 26 The TranzAlpine train in New Zealand 30 Six amazing world train journeys
Features Editor Bev Malzard Digital Editor Alison Godfrey Staff Writer Sophie Cullen Designer Jon Wolfgang Miller Contributors Alison Godfrey, Jennifer Grimwade, Belinda Luksic, Helen Hayes, Maggy Oehlbeck, John Borthwick, Bev Malzard. Cover Image John Borthwick Contact @mydiscoveries @mydiscoveries info@mydiscoveries.com.au www.mydiscoveries.com.au 1300 404 606 M Y DI S COV E R I E S | w w w.myd i sc overie s. c o m . au 3
PLAN
Singapore Shophouses Ready to capture colour, history and charm? Instagram favourite subjects = shophouses. Point and shoot now! BEV MALZARD 4 M Y D I SCOV ER I ES | www. m ydis cover ies. co m . au
RESTORATION COMPLETE! THE CHARM LIVES ON.
SHUT TERS - GREEN WITH ENVY.
There was a time in Singapore when ‘everything old is old again and must be torn down’. After the devastation of Singapore during WWII, the region struggled to rebuild and restore pride for the locals. Well, Singapore quickly became an economic gateway for the Asian region and a powerhouse for modernity, architectural innovation and post-war progress. And while the machine of perpetual change revved up, many of the old buildings were demolished and streets flattened to make way for high-rise. Through to the 1990s the gleaming, clean, sharp-edged city was a model for progress - and the city had lost its soul. But a change of heart was beating through the city and old shophouses were given a new lease of life and were being restored at a rapid rate to stand proud and colourful to add charm and a sense of history to Singapore. And there were new buildings, built in the old style to compliment this emerging trend of heritage entitlement. Old buildings painted and shining with the bright gleam
of pride sit comfortably in the shadow of the glass and steel monoliths. With many beautifully preserved examples, the shophouses in Singapore are prime examples of timeless architectural appeal. These are narrow units built in a neat row that explain and display Asian heritage and culture here more than any other structure except maybe, for the temples. Traditionally, a shophouse has a narrow frontage with a sheltered corridor at the front for pedestrians (called a five-foot way). They have internal courtyards, open stairwells and skylights to bring light and air into otherwise dark and narrow interiors. Shophouses display different architectural influences, often depending on when they were built. Several periods have been identified when it comes to shophouse architecture.
VARIOUS STYLES
There is the minimalist approach taken in the Early Style with little to no ornamentation, the austere elegance of the Second Transitional Style and the
streamlined modernity of the Art Deco period, which eschewed rich detailing and tiling for sleek columns and arches instead. It is the Late Style that is the most head-turning, with its bold use of colour and fancy tiles, as well as the eclectic mix of various elements. Think of Chinese porcelain-chip friezes and batwing shaped air vents co-existing with Malay timber fretwork, French windows, Portuguese shutters and Corinthian pilasters. Neighbourhoods of Katong, Chinatown, Tanjong Pagar and Emerald Hill boast many fine examples of the shophouses described above. Take a walk through these fivefoot ways and see for yourself the beautiful examples of historic Singaporean architecture, Instagram your favourites and add interest and colour to your account. FOR WONDERFUL HOLIDAYS IN SINGAPORE @mydiscoveries @mydiscoveries info@mydiscoveries.com.au www.mydiscoveries.com.au 1300 404 606 M Y DI S COV E R I E S | w w w.myd i sc overi e s. c o m . au 5
PLAN
THE RED CENTRE FOR
light and lyrics In the shadow of Uluru, lights shine and voices will soar – it’s never a better time to go to the spiritual heart of Australia.
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Voyages Indigenous Tourism Australia has announced that for the first time ever, Opera Australia will perform an exclusive concert in the spiritual heart of Australia with Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park and Bruce Munro’s Field of Light Uluru as the backdrop. This oncein-a-lifetime opportunity to absorb some of the world’s finest music, marrying sublime art with a uniquely Australian setting, will be held under the stars on Saturday 2 November 2019. During the concert, some of Opera Australia’s finest singers will perform famous arias from Bizet, Puccini, Rossini, Verdi and more, accompanied by a chamber orchestra and conducted by Tahu Matheson. As the sun sets over the desert backdrop, the evening will be illuminated by the spellbinding colours of Field of Light Uluru’s 50,000 glass spheres. "Opera Australia is honoured to be presenting our first ever performance at Australia’s spiritual centre, on the sacred lands surrounding Uluru. I was so profoundly moved when I first visited - moved by a sense of awe, and spirituality that is palpable, and by the raw beauty of the
landscape,” said Opera Australia Artistic Director Lyndon Terracini. "I knew then that we had an opportunity to create something extraordinary if we could perform in such an incredible atmosphere. It’s absolutely thrilling that we’ve been able to team up with Voyages to bring that dream to life,” said Lyndon. This one-off event also offers a stunning way to experience the global art phenomenon Field of Light Uluru. Since opening at Ayers Rock Resort in 2016, Bruce Munro’s immersive artwork has dazzled visitors from all over the world and its run has been extended to the end of 2020. Grant Hunt, CEO of Voyages, commented: “This extraordinary performance will be a true feast for the senses, combining one of the most iconic Australian landscapes at sunset with Opera Australia’s awe-inspiring music and the magic of Field of Light Uluru.” “We know that our guests are drawn time and again to the magic of Uluru, and that they want to engage in a range of experiences that allow them to gain a deeper enjoyment of the destination, which is why we have worked hard to
enable Opera Australia to perform here in the heart of Australia,” said Grant. The Opera at Uluru program will feature: • ROSSINI 'Largo al factotum' from The Barber of Seville • BIZET ‘Habanera’ from Carmen • BIZET Toreador Song from Carmen • BIZET ‘Au fond du temple saint’ from The Pearlfishers • PUCCINI ‘Vissi d’arte’ from Tosca • PUCCINI 'E lucevan le stelle' from Tosca • DELIBES Flower Duet from Lakmé • PUCCINI 'Nessun dorma' from Turandot” Performers will include: • Natalie Aroyan • Lorina Gore • Angela Hogan • Diego Torre • Haotian Qi • Conducted by Tahu Matheson • Hosted by Lyndon Terracini
FOR MORE ABOUT THE MIGHTY RED CENTRE @mydiscoveries @mydiscoveries info@mydiscoveries.com.au www.mydiscoveries.com.au 1300 404 606
FIELD OF LIGHT
As the sun sets at twilight the remote desert area within sight of the Red Centre’s Uluru (the rock) is illuminated by 50,000 globes that have been ‘planted’ in the sand and glow by the strength of solar-powered optic fibres. This extraordinary installation is the brainchild of British artist Bruce Munro, who with his team of locals installed thousands of slender stems crowned with frosted glass spheres. Qantas is rather smug at the fact that it carried 60,000 (a few as spares) from the UK to Australia – with zero breakages! M Y DI S COV E R I E S | w w w.myd i sc overi e s. c o m . au 7
IMAGE: MPUMELELO MACU
PLAN
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long haul COPING WITH
FLIGHTS
Even though we have travelled before, it’s a good idea to rethink the holiday plans as we get older. Better safe and savvy than sorry. ALISON GODFREY
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IMAGE: SAUL VENEGAS
LEAVING BEHIND OR LOSING YOUR GLASSES COULD BE A DRAMA TAKE A SPARE PAIR WITH YOU.
Travel has no age limits, and as we get older, long haul flights are often dreaded – but it’s a necessary evil when we are keen to get from A to B, especially if B is on the other side of the world. And once we are there, we want things to go smoothly and hopefully hassle-free. Here are few simple considerations to make it easier . . . or at least a more comfortable.
PLAN WELL
The more you plan before you depart for your trip, the less you will have to do as you travel. Consider speaking with an over 50s specialist travel agent, such as MyDiscoveries. It can help you find accommodation that is accessible and advise you on the fitness requirements for tours.
CONSIDER A CRUISE
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destinations. Days at sea allow you to enjoy all the activities and entertainment on board. Cruises are also a great option for multigenerational holidays as everyone can find something they want to do.
CONSIDER A TOUR
Tours are a great option for anyone, but especially for older travellers. The tour company looks after all the organisation – it book the accommodation, the transport and sometimes the flights. All you have to do is relax and enjoy the view. Tour guides also get fast tracked into attractions so you won’t have to spend hours waiting in queues.
CHOOSE THE RIGHT AIRLINE
Pick your airline carefully. Avoid smaller regional airlines, particularly at airports, as you may have to walk up and down stairs to board
the flight. Larger airlines also cater well for seniors. You can book your assistance to walk to and from the gate, wheelchairs or help with getting into your seat. Make sure you book a wheelchair when booking your tickets as, despite what an airline says it offers, there may not be one available if oyu haven’t specified one.
KEEP ACTIVE DURING YOUR FLIGHT
Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT) is a serious concern for anyone over 50 travelling long distance, particularly those with heart disease or circulatory problems. The risk of DVT is increases by sitting still for long periods at a time. Do arm, leg and foot exercises on board, get up and walk the aisles when possible and wear compression stockings to increase the blood flow to your lower legs. Where comfortable clothing – elastic waists – loose
fitting pants. And layer up, for the plane cabin can get hot and also rather chilly sometimes. Have a wrap or scarf to keep your neck warm.
You can’t predict what will happen as you travel, so be prepared. Check the details of the policy and ensure it covers your health conditions as well as emergencies.
KEEP HYDRATED
PACK SPARE GLASSES
Make sure you keep drinking water on board the flight. The trick to drinking lots of water and not having to get up to go to the loo constantly is to take little sips regularly. When you gulp the entire bottle down it goes straight through you and sips tend to be absorbed on the way down. The low humidity onboard can be dehydrating. Avoid alcohol and caffeine as they dehydrate you faster. Bring some moisturiser for your hands and face to keep your skin feeling fresh.
GET TRAVEL INSURANCE
We can’t stress this one enough. Travel insurance is a wise purchase.
If you lose or break a pair of prescription glasses while overseas you will be glad you did.
KEEP PRESCRIPTION MEDICATION IN YOUR CARRY-ON
Make sure you have all the medication you need with you. Do not put it in your check-in bag – just in case that bag gets lost. It’s also a good idea to keep a list of all the medication you are taking with you and to keep a list online or with a family member.
SCAN YOUR TRAVEL DOCUMENTS
Keep a copy of your passport and
your travel documents, including your travel insurance policy safely online. Scan them in and upload them just in case you loose them. Carry a copy with you and keep it separate from your main luggage and leave another copy with a family member or friend at home.
SCHEDULE IN REST DAYS
Slow down. Enjoy your time. There’s no need to rush. A schedule that is too packed will add to your fatigue. Embrace the ethos of ‘Slow Travel’ sit and watch the world go by in a completely foreign place, you never know who you’ll meet to strike up a conversation. FOR MORE HOLIDAY IDEAS FOR MATURE TRAVELLERS @mydiscoveries @mydiscoveries info@mydiscoveries.com.au www.mydiscoveries.com.au 1300 404 606 M Y DI S COV E R I E S | w w w.myd i sc overi e s. c o m . au 1 1
PLAN
5 TOP
tailoring tips Holidaying in Asia? Take time to get fitted for some good tailoring, not off the peg or purchased blindly from the internet – the real deal will see you fitted and fabulous. JENNIFER GRIMWADE
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Having garments tailored throughout Asia can be a real winner. Not only can it make you look better than ever, it can also be extremely economical. Unfortunately, Asian tailoring may also be a real disappointment with many travellers returning home telling terrible yarns about their disasters at the tailor. But with some simple tricks of the trade, you won’t get just stitched up, you'll be stitched up in style!
1. TAKE CLOTHES TO COPY
Asians are the masters of copying, so travel with your favourite garments to be replicated. Specify similar material to the original. Part of the art of having successful clothes made is not only choosing a good tailor, but choosing a garment which will suit you.
2. YOU PAY FOR WHAT YOU GET
The best tailors tend to be situated nearby the best hotels, such as World Group, just around the corner from the Oriental Hotel in Bangkok. Tailors in Five Star hotel shopping arcades are always good too, because the hotel's reputation is at stake. As you have to visit 'your' tailor several times, the location is important. If you are staying in a classy hotel, ask the concierge for a recommendation.
3. LEAVE NO STONE UNTURNED
A golden rule is to never rush your initial discussion with your tailor. Just imagine you are making the clothes yourself and try to ask the obvious questions, after all, your tailor has to make a decision about every aspect of the garment. If you are having a copy made, stress you want it 'same same', best not to leave any room for misunderstandings. Take the time to point out you want an identical
collar, the same length, the same cuffs etc. Never take anything for granted, you know what you want, but your new tailor may not! When you are having a shirt styled, rather than just copied, you need to establish what you want. What is the length of sleeve, and if it is long, do you want cufflinks or buttons, do you like stiff or soft cuffs? How stiff do you want the collar, do you want it buttoned down? How many pockets, do you want a button on the pocket? What sort of buttons? And do you want it straight or curved at the bottom, and do you like to wear long or short shirts, loose, or tucked in?
4. THE BETTER THE BRIEF, THE QUICKER THE FITTING
If you have given the tailor a good brief, you should only need one fitting. Best place to be fitted is in your hotel room. Never arrange for a fitting just before you depart, because if it doesn't fit, there will be no time to fix it. Always be ambiguous about your departure details. When you have a jacket
tailored, don’t forget to try it on wearing a sweater. Never rush the fitting, you may regret it later.
5. TIME UP YOUR SLEEVE
A great trick is to have one garment made to establish a rapport with your tailor. When you wish to have something flash made, ask the tailor to make the same style in a less expensive fabric first. Then you can make modifications to perfect the more expensive garment. Because the quality of material can make all the difference to a garment, don't skimp! Expensive fabrics hang better, last longer and are easier to sew. Even if you spend up big on the fabric, the low cost of tailoring in Asia can guarantee you take home an outstanding, original, made-to-measure garment at an exceptionally fair price.
MORE ABOUT EXPERIENCES IN ASIA @mydiscoveries @mydiscoveries info@mydiscoveries.com.au www.mydiscoveries.com.au 1300 404 606
TOP TIPS FOR TAILORS World Group Tailors 38 Oriental Avenue Bangrak Bangkok 10500 www.worldgroupbkk.com Tailoring in Hoi An, Vietnam is very well priced Bebe ClothShop - Tailor 40 Trân Hung Đao, tp. HÔi An, Quang Nam, Vietnam 11 Hoang Dieu St OR 95 Phan Chau Trinh St OR 40 Trân Hung Đao St, HÔi An, Vietnam For excellent suits made in Hong Kong Charms Tailor Suite 2003, CFC Tower www.charms.hk/ Lord’s Tailor Suite 903, Chuang's Tower www.lords.hk/
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DESTINATIONS
WHO PUT THE PORT INTO
Portugal? Portugal’s robust and vibrant small city of the north, Porto, is more than the sum of its many and varied bridges. BEV MALZARD
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IMAGE: DISCOVER PORTUGAL, SPAIN & MOROCCO HOLIDAYS
ALIADOS SQUARE.
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IMAGES: DISCOVER PORTUGAL, SPAIN & MOROCCO HOLIDAYS
RIBEIRA.
I was coming to the end of a cruise along the silky Douro River in Portugal through an old part of the world that is thus far unspoilt, mellow and innocent of mass tourism at its most voracious. We had visited vineyards that have been producing wine for hundreds of years, walked through sleepy, ancient villages and skipped across the border to take in Spain for a sunny afternoon. But the cruise was at an end and a new landing and a new city was revving up the anticipation endorphins. The vessel was sliding to where the river meets the sea, through the city of Porto. This is an aged city and under a brilliant blue sky the view of the built-up apartments on the edge of the shore and the emergence of bridge after bridge, from wrought iron to modern concrete construction gives the river an energetic, gleeful aura. Porto is high spirited, a charming place, jam-packed with solid buildings, Roman ramparts, higgledy piggledy alleyways, wide open Parisian-style town squares, elegant boutiques, crumbling shop facades, blue and white ceramic tiled walls and loitering, scruffy, off-hand dogs. Baroque churches display excessive gold decoration and overwhelming artwork, and cliff tops use the city as decorative drapery. 1 6 M Y D I SCOV ER I ES | www. m ydis cover ies. co m . au
Upcountry attitude prevails here and the tripeiros (Porto locals) are hard working and have been quoted as saying: “we earn the money and Lisbon spends it”. Intercity rivalry? Along the serene Douro River steep sided, terraced vineyards produce the ‘gold’ of the region – port wine. It makes its way down to Porto, named for the potent elixir and it was Porto that put the ‘Port’ into Portugal. The main part of Porto sits on the craggy bluffs east of the mouth of the Douro River. Avenida dos Aliados is a broad avenue running through the central part of the city lined with handsome, intricately detailed, Art Nouveau buildings. South of this avenue is the Ribeira district, the historic heartbeat and an eclectic and attractive neighbourhood. Alongside the riverside promenade I view the traditional boats (barco rabelos) that used to ferry the port wine down the river. From here you can see wine lodges across the river in the town of Vila Nova de Gaia, a busy precinct but accessible, friendly and easy to navigate. It’s not too tricked up and its shabbiness conveys warmth and hospitality. One of the bridges of the city is pretty special – the double decker Ponte Dom Luis I was completed in
IMAGE: PER EIDE/VISITNORWAY.COM
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CLERICOS.
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DOM LUIS, SUNSET.
THE ART OF THE TART
Porto people have the nickname ‘tripeiros’, meaning ‘tripe eaters. And therein hangs a tale. When Henry the Navigator was preparing to sail to Morocco in 1415, Porto’s loyal citizens donated their best meat to the expedition, keeping the offal for themselves which earned them the nickname – tripeiros. Fish, fish and more fish also suited me here but as well as an obsession with the local sardines I couldn’t get enough of the pastries. Ah, those buttery, fragrant Portuguese tarts, enough to melt a heart of stone. If you can manage to eat only two at a sitting – well, c’mon, life is too short to miss eating three tarts at a time. The layers of fine pastry of the ‘Pasteis de Nata’ is a crispy crust that holds a creamy custard, blistered on top from the oven’s high heat. And what is a visit to Porto without a tipple of the ‘gold’. You can buy direct from the warehouses in Vila Nova de Gaia but it’s nice to ask for a glass in a restaurant or café and join in the pleasant imbibing of Portugal’s best drop with the locals. www.visitportugal.com FOR MORE ON PORTUGAL @mydiscoveries @mydiscoveries info@mydiscoveries.com.au www.mydiscoveries.com.au 1300 404 606 M Y DI S COV E R I E S | w w w.myd i sc overi e s. c o m . au 1 9
IMAGES: DISCOVER PORTUGAL, SPAIN & MORO CCO HOLIDAYS
1886 by a student of Gustave Eiffel (yes, that one). The top deck is for pedestrians and one of the city’s metro lines and the bottom deck carries cars and trucks. Nearby to Avenida dos Aliados is the gorgeous San Bento railway station. It’s so glamorous: there’s huge Portuguese tiled artwork (azulejos) depicting battle scenes and the history of local public transport – no battles were fought over a tram line! Not far from the avenue is the pedestrian ‘mall’, Rua Santa Catarina. This is the main shopping district of the area, with a host of shops for clothes, shoes, souvenirs and homewares and there are many cafes. Black-suited, bow-tied waiters swiftly navigate crowded coffee houses balancing little silver trays bearing pastries, or cups of coffee. The atmosphere in any eating or drinking establishment is vibrant and I was swept up in the joy of what eating out really means – serious business. On a corner in the shopping district is a building that startles with its glorious façade. The Capela das Almas is covered in lustrous blue azulejos. An integral part of Portuguese culture, azulejos typically, are painted, tin-glazed ceramic tiles that decorate the inside and outside of rooms, homes, and public buildings throughout Portugal. Not only decorative, they help control the temperature inside the buildings. The Moors introduced them to Spain and Portugal after learning about the azulejos from the Persians.
DESTINATIONS
48 hours in York
Spend some time in the atmospheric and elegant city of York, the UK’s second mediaeval city. Eat, drink, sleep and play - all budgets catered to. BEV MALZARD
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WHY YORK?
Vikings, Romans and chocolate have all left a lasting impression on the historic city of York. Encircled by impressive ancient walls (the City Walls form a walkway on both sides of the River Ouse), it has a long and varied history. York has been named the most haunted city in Europe – a fact enhanced by the city’s many ancient and shadowy snickelways (a local term for narrow lanes, passageways and alleys). York also boasts the largest Gothic cathedral in northern Europe, as well as the largest railway museum in the world, plus it has a comprehensive calendar of events and festivals, including the February Jorvik Viking Festival, March’s York Literature Festival, and September’s York Food & Drink Festival. Not to forget the world-class horseracing meetings held from May to October each year at York Races – a favourite among racegoers since it was founded in 1731.
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CENTURIES OF VARIOUS STYLES OF ROOFTOPS TELL THE HISTORY OF YORK.
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ED’S TIP
York is in the county of Yorkshire in the north of England, two hours north of London by train. The nearest international airports are Leeds-Bradford and Manchester Airport. Best to fly into Manchester and catch the train to York– quick as a wink!
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DAY ONE
10:00 Step up to York’s highest point The largest Gothic cathedral in northern Europe, York Minster took 250 years to build, from 1220 until its consecration in 1472. This hallowed landmark impresses with dazzling stained glass, historic artefacts and awe-inspiring architecture. It’s open for sightseeing every day, as well as for regular services, concerts and events (including the famous York Mystery Plays). For magnificent views, climb 275 winding steps, passing medieval pinnacles and gargoyles, to the top of the Minster’s central tower – the highest point in all of York. 11:30 Circumnavigate the city walls Familiarise yourself with York by taking a walk around the City Walls. At 3.4km long, they are the longest and best-preserved medieval city walls in England. Taking approximately two hours to complete the entire circuit, you may prefer to focus on just a few sections – in which case, the Friends of York Walls website suggests various routes and trails. 13:30 Take away a ‘Shambles’ lunch While exploring the Shambles, York’s oldest street, grab lunch from Shambles Kitchen. Famous for its pulled pork sandwich, other healthy options include street food boxes, soups and smoothies. 14:30 See the return of a steam-era superstar The Flying Scotsman (a locomotive flagship for modernity in 1924) in York’s National Railway Museum had a complex and lengthy £4.2million overhaul three years ago. This is the largest railway museum in the world, other attractions include the mighty Mallard, which has held the world speed record for steam locomotives since 1938, the massive Chinese Engine, presented to the museum by the Chinese Government, and the only Shinkansen (Japanese Bullet Train) outside of Japan.
16:00 Go back in time for afternoon tea on a train Travel back in time to an era of luxury railway dining aboard the Countess of York, a beautifully restored rail carriage stationed in the South Gardens of the National Railway Museum. Its Afternoon Tea is a civilised treat with a Yorkshire twist: sandwiches and savouries include Yorkshire blue cheese and red onion marmalade tart, scones are baked to a traditional Yorkshire recipe, and homemade fancies include Parkin crème brulee. Choose a fine leaf tea by Taylor’s of Harrogate. 17:00 Spot the little devil of Stonegate Lined with shops, Stonegate is one of York’s most fascinating and photogenic streets. Craftsmen including goldsmiths and stained-glass makers had premises here in the Middle Ages, many leaving their mark on the historic buildings. The little red devil outside No. 33 was a traditional symbol of a printer – a printer’s apprentice being known as a 'printer’s devil'. 18:30 Start dinner with proper Yorkshire puddings The cousin of Michelin-starred country eatery The Star Inn, stylish The Star Inn The City specialises in authentic and delicious Yorkshire cooking. Yorkshire Puddings were traditionally served before, not with, a main meal – just as they are here. Other local flavours include Whitby crab, confit of east Yorkshire duck leg and plenty of Yorkshire beef. Served until 19.00, their two-course Market Menu is ideal for lunch or pretheatre. 19:30 Open the curtains on a new production A leading British theatre, York Theatre Royal has produced great drama for more than 250 years. Reopening in spring 2016 after a major £4.1million redevelopment project, productions include Shakespeare, opera, ballet and plays by famous UK and international playwrights. Sherlock Holmes, and the world premiere stage adaptation of Evelyn M Y DI S COV E R I E S | w w w.myd i sc overi e s. c o m . au 2 3
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Check in: Set in a charming Victorian rectory, the Parisi is a small, friendly and affordable hotel. Or, with 101 rooms, casual restaurant, and a sumptuous colour palate inspired by York’s chocolate heritage, there’s the InterContinental Hotel Group’s boutique Hotel Indigo York. And housed in the iconic former headquarters of the North Eastern Railway Company, The Grand Hotel & Spa is the city’s only five-star hotel, providing fabulous first-class service and facilities.
BET TYS FAMOUS CAFE AND TEA ROOMS (DO TRY THE SCONES, BAT TENBERG CAKE AND A FAT RASCAL).
DAY TWO
10:00 Invade William the Conqueror’s ruined castle William the Conqueror built York Castle in 1068 shortly after the Norman Conquest, to cement his status over this former Viking city. The castle endured a tumultuous early history and its keep, known as Clifford’s Tower, is almost all that remains. Standing high on its mound, this medieval ruin has served as a prison and a royal mint in its time. Once a lookout point for castle guards, the open-air wall walk at the top provides wonderful far-reaching views. 11:00 Experience prison life, the First World War & the Swinging Sixties An increased demand for prison capacity in York in the 18th century required the construction of two new prison buildings below Clifford’s Tower: The Female Prison and Debtors’ Prison. These now form the York Castle Museum, with exhibitions illustrating York’s social and military history. Popular attractions for all the family include a recreated Victorian cobbled street with authentic shops, schoolroom, police cell and Hansom cab. Other galleries give a sense of prison life, portray the horror of the First World War, and recreate the spirit of the 1960s. 2 4 M Y D I SCOV ER I ES | www. m ydis cover ies. co m . au
13:30 Confront a Fat Rascal at Bettys The founder of Bettys Café Tea Rooms travelled on the maiden voyage of the Queen Mary in 1936, and was so enthralled that he commissioned the same designers and craftsmen to create this elegant café – and it soon became a local landmark. Although there are plenty of tempting treats, Bettys is renowned for the Fat Rascal: an oval teacake with currants and candied peel, it goes well with a cup of Yorkshire tea. 14:30 See a sweet side to the city While neighbouring towns made their wealth from wool, cotton and steel, York made its profits from chocolate. Some of the world’s best-known names in chocolate were concocted in York. Joseph Rowntree created bestselling brands including Kit Kat, Smarties and Aero, while Joseph Terry gave us the Chocolate Orange and All Gold collection – inextricably linked with York’s social and industrial past, these sweet empires are now part of Nestlé and Mondelēz International respectively. You’ll find evidence of this chocolate heritage throughout York. Goddard’s, the Terry family’s beautiful Arts and Crafts style home, is now owned by the National Trust and is
A SECTION OF THE ANCIENT CITY WALL - STILL STANDING STRONG.
16:30 Get a chocolate retail fix Chocolate connoisseurs should head to Monk Bar Chocolatiers, York’s longest established artisan chocolatiers. 19:00 Dine in a former brothel Enjoy casual yet decadent dining at The Blue Bicycle, a former 19th-century brothel overlooking the River Foss. Couples may share a romantic meal in one of the original private vaulted booths, while old photographs of exotic girls are reminders of the building’s historic improprieties. 20:00 Unearth York’s spookiest secrets York has a spooky past. Infamous highwayman Dick Turpin was executed here in 1739, and local folklore is full of similar tales of tragedy and death. Experience the shadowy side of York on one of numerous nightly
ghost walks. These include the Original Ghost Walk of York. The eerie apparitions you’ll hear about include the Grey Lady, the Headless Earl, and the Legendary Legionnaires. Rather not walk? Try the Ghost Bus Tour, a professional comedy theatre company who present a mix of thrills, chills and chuckles on board a former funeral bus. 21:30 Whisky, gin…or a ghostly spirit Afterwards, steady your nerve with a stiff drink at The Golden Fleece hotel, York’s most haunted pub. Said to have five resident spirits, there have been numerous reports of ghostly apparitions and moving furniture. Or sample a vast range of local and international craft ales at The House of the Trembling Madness, an atmospheric ale shop and inn that also serves pub food, snacks and shareable platters.
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IMAGES: VISIT BRITAIN/ANDREW PICKET T
open to the public. A major visitor attraction, York’s Chocolate Story, tells the rich tale of chocolate and confectionery in the city. There are also chocolatethemed walking trails, chocolate-making workshops, even an annual chocolate festival.
DESTINATIONS LOOKING OUT THE WINDOW NEAR JACKSONS
FIVE REASONS TO BOARD THE
TranzAlpine RAIL
New Zealand isn’t short on stunning scenery, but nothing competes with the dramatic landscapes that greet passengers onboard the TranzAlpine Rail. BELINDA LUKSIC
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HEADING EAST NEAR AICKENS.
SPRINGFIELD, APPROACHING THE ALPS.
Regarded as one of the great rail journeys of the world, the modern scenic rail line rolls daily over the magnificent and misty Southern Alps, between Christchurch and the west coast town of Greymouth. The TranzAlpine is one of three eye-popping rail journeys that link the North and South islands, between Auckland and Greymouth. It’s also KiwiRail’s most popular, attracting more than 130,000 passengers each year. Departing Christchurch, the train shoots west across the vast and fertile Canterbury Plains, barrelling through seventeen tunnels, and across five viaducts and bridges, as it climbs the bank of imposing mountains that run 450km north to south through the backbone of South Island.
ROLLING VIEWS
Avid photographers will want to snag a spot in one of the train’s two open-air observation cars. Over the course of four-and-a-half hours, the scenery shifts dramatically from farmland and fields dotted with bright yellow and mauve native blooms, to vast braided rivers, plunging ravines and alluvial 2 8 M Y D I SCOV ERI ES | www. m ydis cover ies. co m . au
plains framed by towering snow-capped mountains. Those who opt for the warmth of the carriage won’t be disappointed either. Along with panoramic windows and comfortable reclining seats, is audio commentary on the places and views outside the window, and what it took to tunnel through such mountainous country.
ARTHURS PASS
Nestled in high country, midway to the West Coast, the tiny town of Arthurs Pass is a popular spot for hikers, at the gateway to Arthurs Pass National Park. Named after Sir Arthur Dobson, who led the first party of Europeans over the pass in 1864, this is the highest settlement in New Zealand, with more than four metres of rainfall each year. There are dozens of walking trails of varying difficulty through rainforest and deep dramatic gorges, braided rivers and stands of silver beech forest. During the winter, the area is a hive of skiers and snowboarders. Look out for the comical, olivegreen Kea, endemic to the region and the world’s only mountain parrot.
ALONGSIDE WAIMAKARIRI RIVER.
LOOKING OUT AT LAKE SARAH.
EPIC HIGHS
The 223km path of the TranzAlpine is as much a feat of engineering as it is startling beauty. Nowhere is this more evident than the Staircase Viaduct – a 73m tall bridge spanning the Waimakariri River, with staggering views of the gorge and braided channels of turquoise, ice-fed rivers below. Equally impressive is the 8.5km Ōtira Tunnel, at one time the longest tunnel in the southern hemisphere, which plunges passengers in darkness for minutes at a time, as it hurtles down through the Southern Alps and out into the blinking bright wilderness of the West Coast.
RIVERS AND LAKES
Snow covered mountains are never far from view on the TranzAlpine, but it’s the grandstand views of the Waikamariri Gorge and its twists of candy-blue rivers that capture the imagination. Viaducts span tributaries, mirror-smooth lakes reflect the sky and braided rivers twist and turn between riverbeds of silvery shale. Midway between Arthurs Pass and Greymouth is Moana and the waters of Lake Brunner, the largest lake in South Island, and a three-hour stop between
trains for passengers who want to stretch their legs. Twitchers can walk the path of the lake, through rainforest and large wetlands teeming with birds.
THE TRAIN
The inaugural journey might have been low-key, with just two carriages and no public toilet, but the TranzAlpine today is a stylish and light-filled ride. Panoramic carriages replaced the old refurbished compartments in 2012, and two open-air observation cars were added. Bathed in light, premium carriages feature large panoramic windows and skylights, spacious forward-reclining seats, USB chargers and complimentary headphones. Other carriages offer comfortable table-top seating for four. The licensed buffet car is a good stop for beer and bubbles, espresso coffee, juices, sandwiches and wraps. HEADING TO NEW ZEALAND? @mydiscoveries @mydiscoveries info@mydiscoveries.com.au www.mydiscoveries.com.au 1300 404 606 M Y DI S COV E R I E S | w w w.myd i sc overi e s. c o m . au 2 9
DESTINATIONS
Five top train trips Travel by train is a great way to experience the countryside. These are the top five train trips in the world.
TRANS-SIBERIAN RAILWAY ON THE BAIKAL LAKE SHORE. 3 0 M Y D I SCOV ER I ES | www. m ydis cover ies. co m . au
THE FAMOUS ROCKY MOUNTAINEER TRAIN, CANADA.
THE ORIGINAL TRANSSIBERIAN EXPRESS
Spanning 9288km of track, this is perhaps the most famous of rail journeys and the longest passenger train route in the world. With an average speed of just 77km/h, the trip from Moscow to Vladivostok isn’t for those on a tight schedule – you’ll need to set aside a minimum 146 hours, 8 minutes (six and a bit days), and most journeys include stopovers. But for that investment, you’ll cross multiple time zones and witness the breadth of Russia’s majestic terrain, from verdant woodlands, through mountains and desert, to grassy steppe. While itineraries vary, most journeys break at Irkutsk, one of the largest cities in Siberia, with ornately decorated 19th-century buildings, just 70km from World Heritagelisted Lake Baikal.
THE CANADIAN
The trip from Toronto to Vancouver is a sleepy 83 hours long – but considering you’ll be winding through the steep and snow-capped Rocky Mountains and Canadian Shield forests, the
pace suits anyone looking for relaxation, rest and peaceful views. Huge glass windows make the most of the scenery as the train wends its way across 4466km of Canada’s diverse landscape.
THE BLUE TRAIN
South Africa’s famous Blue Train spans 1600km of track linking Pretoria with Cape Town. More like a hotel on rails than a train, there are lounge carriages where passengers can mingle in comfort and some suites contain full-sized baths. High-tech additions like the driver’s eye camera view meet classic decor and a butler service. The journey takes 27 hours from start to finish and crosses some of the most diverse and picturesque scenery on the African continent. Don’t expect to feel the rush of wind through your hair though, as its average speed is just 57km/h.
INDIAN-PACIFIC RAILWAY ACROSS THE AUSTRALIAN OUTBACK.
of Broken Hill, Adelaide, and Kalgoorlie you’ll cover 4352km at an average speed of 85km/h. At that rate, you’ll catch the full glory of the sun setting across the horizon on the longest stretch of straight rail track in the world. Travel in spring for the best of Western Australia’s wildflowers.
JINGHU HIGH-SPEED RAIL
For those who like their train travel to evoke the future rather than the past, China is calling. The showcase of China’s modern rail fleet was launched in 2012 and shaves 20 hours off the 1303km trip from Beijing to Shanghai, delivering passengers to their destination in five super-fast hours. It is currently the fastest long-distance passenger train in the world, reaching speeds of 300km/h. This story was originally published on Readers Digest and has been republished here with permission.
THE INDIAN PACIFIC
Departing from Sydney, it takes about 70 hours for the Indian Pacific to traverse the Australian continent on its way to Perth. Stopping at the mining town
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IMAGE: LUKE HANSON
INSPIRATION
SNORKELLING ON LORD HOWE ISLAND.
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IN THE SWIM ON
Lord Howe Island Lord Howe Island is home to the southernmost coral reef in the world, and one of the best ways to see it, is to swim. HELEN HAYES
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I fly in over the iridescent blue of Lord Howe Island’s glorious lagoon, a little nervous as I think about tomorrow. I am here to participate in an ocean swimming week with former Australian ironman Trevor Hendy, with the plan to swim two, to two and half kilometres each morning. What was I thinking? The ocean swim weeks have been set up by Pinetrees Lodge, now being run by Dani Rourke and her husband Luke Hanson. Pinetrees runs in Dani’s blood, as this classic lodge has been in her family for six generations. The following morning, I find myself chugging over the lagoon in a glass bottom boat, a gaggle of people fiddling with goggles or adjusting caps. Skipper Dean stops the engine, the water safety team unload their boards and Trevor tells us where we are swimming. He reminds us again that it is not a race, in fact it is the opposite. He wants us to be in the moment – to “stop and smell the coral”. The “more leisurely” swimmers go in first, so in I go. I work on my stroke, using Trevor’s “reach and roll” method. We swim over Erscotts Hole and Comet’s Hole, stopping to view the stunningly beautiful coral and the fish that have dropped by for a snack. Fish of all colours and sizes are cruising by us, and I hear the call that there are turtles over yonder. When we get back on the boat everyone is high on the sheer joy of the experience and happy that we get to do it again. One day we swim from the boat to North Bay. On another we swim to Rabbit Island, and one morning we swim from Old Settlement Beach back to 3 4 M Y D I SCOV ER I ES | ww w. m ydis cover ies. co m . au
AND IF YOU AREN'T SWIMMING, THERE'S ALWAYS A GOOD WALKING TRACK HERE.
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IMAGE: LUKE HANSON
LORD HOWE ISLAND FROM NORTH BAY WALK.
Pinetrees, stopping at the jetty to jump off it like children. When we are not swimming, we are doing typical Lord Howe things. We ride to Ned’s beach for a snorkel, down to Blinky’s Beach to enjoy the sunrise and a bodysurf, and do the Little Island walk in the shadows of Mt Gower, through forests of tangled banyan trees and kentia palms. The only link to our normal lives is when we get a fix of WiFi at the Anchorage Café. And then we ride back to Pinetrees, the magic ingredient that turns our Lord Howe experience into something truly exceptional. I love that there are no room keys – 3 6 M Y D I SCOV ER I ES | www. m ydis cover ies. co m . au
there is no need to lock doors here. I love the pleasant alcoves around the property, situated under trees where you can sit and read, and I adore watching the sunset over the lagoon from the Pinetrees deck, glass of wine in hand. As for the food. Oh, my lord. Any Pinetrees stay is all inclusive, with the mantra being that you will leave “fatter but fitter”, and that is true. Breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and a three-course dinner are provided and will knock your socks off. On my last day, we start our swim in the corner of the lagoon under Mt Gower. As we swim away from it, I stop and float on
my back, looking back to Lidgbird and Gower with their crevices and cliff faces, the twin pines at Lovers Bay and the lush green of the golf course. Others have stopped next to me, and we all just drink in the sheer beauty that lies before us, before turning back over, reaching and rolling, over an undersea world that is just as divine. It doesn’t get much better than this. FOR MORE ABOUT AUSTRALIAN ISLANDS @mydiscoveries @mydiscoveries info@mydiscoveries.com.au www.mydiscoveries.com.au 1300 404 606
WHILE YOU’RE THERE
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Play a round of golf. The nine-hole course is scenic but tricky, and you pay via an honesty system.
2
Feed the fish at Ned’s Beach – wade in and be amazed as the fish – including huge kingfish - come to you.
3
Go on a snorkelling tour or glass bottom boat ride on the lagoon with Lord Howe Environmental Tours.
4
Visit the museum and learn about the history of the island and the seaplane service.
5
Walk up to Kim’s Lookout, Malabar Hill or Intermediate Hill for jaw-dropping views over the island. For the adventurous, climb Mt Gower – it’s a full day and you must go with a registered guide. M Y DI S COV E R I E S | w w w.myd i sc overi e s. c o m . au 3 7
INSPIRATION
6 Divine, colourful travel destinations There are towns so hooked on colour and its appeal that entire areas are daubed to reflect a universal devotion.
Around the globe, sometimes in the most unexpected places, a handful of towns and villages stand out from the crowd, capturing the world’s attention and attracting thousands of visitors every year. It’s not just a richness of culture or great views that generate all the fuss. Tourists from all over the globe are drawn to these places to celebrate the sheer beauty of colour. It can be an ancient legacy or a blending of cultures, a reflection of the environment or a strong statement against it, but whatever the reasons, colourful towns are places people love to live in and visit. While it may not be practical to sidestep the conventional shades at home, it is possible to share the benefits of colour therapy by taking inspiration from these destinations.
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1. WROCLAW, POLAND
The old town of Wroclaw, Poland, has a complicated history. For decades as Europe warred around it, the city became in turn the province of Germany, Prussia and Austria. Now it is known as ‘the Venice of Poland’, where it is the fourth largest city of its newest country. A restrained approach to colour highlights the rich classical architecture of the city, progressing from earth tones to soft, natural pastels including greens. In the modern arena, the town’s new Municipal Stadium, built for the 2012 UEFA European Football Championship, is covered with glass fibre mesh coated in Teflon, which can have any colour projected on it to reflect the mood of the event.
2. RIO DE JANEIRO, BRAZIL
In Rio de Janeiro slum housing communities, known as favelas, stretch as far as the eye can see. Existing in some capacity since the late 18th century when freed slaves found themselves with nowhere to go, they’re a part of the historical identity of Brazil. In a city famed for its carnival, life in the favelas can be hard, with high unemployment and
widespread poverty. A recent series of projects led by two Dutch artists, Jeroen Koolhaas and Dre Urhahn, sought to revive the area with colour and paint, encouraging civic pride and teaching young people skills. Two huge murals and 34 homes at the entrance to the central square of Favela Santa Marta were painted by residents in a variety of striking hues.
3. PATIDAD, INDIA
In 2009, a small village called Patidad in Gujarat, western India, underwent a radical colour overhaul when a prominent local family decided absolutely everything should be painted pink. Believed to be a divine colour in Hinduism, every house, every gate and every temple was transformed with the vibrant hue. Also known for being a particularly civic minded place, smoking and drinking is banned in Patidad, women and girls form trade collectives and local community groups work hard to preserve the environment, not least by planting 11,000 trees in the past few years. The dramatic statement is an expression of the villagers’ faith and pride, but it also serves to set it apart, making Patidad a bona fide tourist attraction. M Y DI S COV E R I E S | w w w.myd i sc overi e s. c o m . au 3 9
4. TOBERMORY, SCOTLAND
With up to 300 days a year of rain and an average annual temperature of just 7ºC, Tobermory, the capital of the Isle of Mull off the northeast coast of Scotland, can be grey and bleak at the best of times. Inhabited since the Middle Ages, it was established as a working fishing port in 1788 and today most of the island’s 2000 inhabitants live in the thriving hamlet. One of the most biodiverse areas in Europe, many nature lovers are attracted to the island but Tobermory is perhaps best known for the brightly painted houses and buildings that line the waterfront. In defiance of the climate, the changing palette of rich reds, deep blues, soft yellows and salmon pinks make this Scottish harbour one of the prettiest in the world.
5. BO-KAAP, SOUTH AFRICA
The residents of Bo-Kaap, a township of Cape Town in South Africa, are mostly descended from slaves who were imported by the Dutch during the 16th and 17th centuries. They came from Africa, Java, Indonesia, Malaysia and other parts of Asia, and were collectively known as the Cape Malays. These diverse cultures contributed much to the interesting architecture of the town and found commonality in their Muslim faith. In accordance with the practice of wearing bright colours to signify the end of Ramadan, the houses are repainted in rainbow colours each year, with neighbours conferring to avoid a clash. Since the end of apartheid, the charming and colourful cobbled streets of Bo-Kaap have attracted many tourists and property in the multicultural province is much sought after. 4 0 M Y D I SCOV ERI ES | www. m ydis cover ies. co m . au
6. CHEFCHAOUEN, MOROCCO
A bustling town high in the Rif Valley of northern Morocco, Chefchaouen sets itself apart from the dusty landscape in a palette of powder blue. The history of the settlement dates back to 1471, when it was a small fortress established by Moorish exiles leaving Spain to fight the Portuguese invaders. As the Spanish reconquered Moorish lands in the late 15th century, Chefchaouen grew and prospered with the arrival of Muslims and Jews fleeing persecution. The refugees whitewashed their houses, balconies and tiled roofs, and added citrus trees to the centre of their patios, creating a Spanish style and ambience. But it was the Jewish immigrants who popularised the pale-blue wash, considered a holy colour in Judaism, that is now the town’s trademark. Article provided courtesy of Reader’s Digest. WANT MORE TRAVEL COLOUR IN YOUR LIFE? @mydiscoveries @mydiscoveries info@mydiscoveries.com.au www.mydiscoveries.com.au 1300 404 606
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INSPIRATION
baguette HOW TO BAG A
The legend of the loaf is baked into the DNA of the French people . . .viva la bread! BEV MALZARD
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Late last year, I was driving from Charles de Gaulle airport into Paris and spied, shuffling along the street of one of the outlying suburbs, a walking clichĂŠ, an old, hunched man, wearing a beret and carrying a baguette at 65cm in length. The ubiquitous baguette - bread of a thousand legends, countless laws and constrained to the perfect, ordained length - this is the stuff and staff of life to the French nation - the symbol of France perhaps. Fact: an excellent baguette needs to look, sound, smell and feel the part; with a golden-tinged crust and an ivory coloured centre, and the shell of the loaf must 'crack' with just a little pressure and a soft, hollow sound must occur when the bottom is tapped. It should have a warm, cereal and caramel aroma with hints
of longing - longing for butter. I was staying down the hill from the Arc de Triomphe in a narrow (of course) street and on the corner was a popular boulangerie - a seductive aroma of butter emanated out the doors. I took up a stalking position early one evening round about 5.30pm and took a few sneaky snaps of folk going into our local boulangerie and I guessed who would be buying an evening baguette (mornings are full on too). All 20 shoppers I observed, except for two who picked up a pastry, carried their baguette out of the shop. Normally one loaf but a couple of people greedied up and had a handle on two or more. The baguette is always sold in a white paper bag that reaches just over half-way up the loaf and carried by hand, under the arm or
in a basket. I noticed that everyone carrying the fresh baguette would unconsciously snap the end off the loaf and eat it. A quaint tasting habit that I totally get!
FRENCH BREAD LAW
This perfect baton of bread needs protection and the French government did just that in 1993 with the 'Decret Pain'. This law states that traditional baguettes have to be made on the premises they're sold and can only be made with four ingredients: wheat flour, water, salt and yeast. They can't be frozen at any stage or contain additives or preservatives, which also means they go stale within 24 hours. So, beware, there is plenty of mediocre bread sold in France and separating the wheat from the chaff requires a good nose ... M Y DI S COV E R I E S | w w w.myd i sc overi e s. c o m . au 4 3
FINDING A GOOD BAKERY
• To be called a 'boulangerie', a French bakery has to make its bread on the premises. If this word doesn't feature in the name of the bakery or isn't plastered on the window it could be a plain old dépôt de pain selling factorymade bread. • Boulangeries are supposed to display a small yellow and blue sign letting you know that your baker is authentic, reading: "Votre boulanger. Un artisan authentique". These appreciated few often have a tell-tale queue snaking outside • The word baguette is feminine so make sure you ask for une baguette (une to rhyme with June), or just get two, deux baguettes, a number that helpfully stays the same for masculine and feminine words. • It's usual to ask for a well or under-cooked baguette: bien cuite for well-cooked and crusty and pas trop cuite for under4 4 M Y D I SCOV ERI ES | www. m ydis cover ies. co m . au
cooked and soft. • Don't be afraid to ask for half a baguette, une demi-baguette, as most bakeries sell them, and for exactly half the price. • Baguettes cost between 1 euro and 1.30 euros. Try to pay with close to the exact amount as French bakeries rarely have change for large notes and may not serve you if you don't have close change. • A traditional baguette is called a baguette tradition, baguette à l'ancienne or baguette de campagne. • Look out for interesting varieties such as baguette aux céréales, baguette aux graines de sésame or baguette aux olives.
SERVING ETIQUETTE
• Look like a local and eat the end of the baguette on the way home from the bakery, it's called le quignon, the heel. • Don't use a bread board. just use the cutting in the air technique or
tear off pieces by hand. • Traditional Catholics use the bread knife to lightly mark a crucifix on the back of a baguette before cutting it. • Serve pieces of bread alongside a main course and then again for the cheese course (served before dessert). • Pieces of bread are never served on side plates, instead they're put directly on the placemat or tablecloth to the upper right-hand side of the dinner plate.
EATING ETIQUETTE
• Soften your baguette by dipping it in your morning coffee. • Although most French people eat baguette without butter, those from Normandy and Brittany insist on a thick layer of unsalted or salted butter. • Day-old bread can be salvaged by using it to make pain perdu, translated as lost bread or French toast.
HISTOIRE DE LA BAGUETTE
There are many stories of the origins of the baguette and all of them probably have a grain of truth in them, but I like this one: A patriotic tale tells of the possible origin of the baguette (not its shape though) by linking it to the French Revolution. Lack of bead was the principal complaint from the people of Paris and it played a big part in the overthrow of the monarchy. Being the staple of the French diet, the poor watched the nobility eat heaps of fine, white loaves while they faced shortage and even starvation - making do with bread that was almost inedible. So, after the Revolution, making sure everybody had quality bread was high on the priority list. In 1793 the Convention (the postRevolution government) made a law stating: "Richness and poverty must both disappear from the
government of equality. It will no longer make a bread of wheat for the rich and a bread of bran for the poor. All bakeries will be held, under the penalty of imprisonment, to make only one type of bread: The Bread of Equality". Another story claims that Napoleon Bonaparte passed a law decreeing that bread for his soldiers should be made in long slender loaves of exact measurement to fit in a special pocket on their uniforms. Since those measurements were close to the size of the modern baguette, some folk think this might be when the bread first took on its current form. Maybe it's Napoleon we have to thank. Whatever the reason that this weird shaped bread appeared, by the mid-1800s in Paris, they were everywhere. Merci beaucoup. Much of the info on the history came from bonjourparis.com
which features all manner of wonderful information on Paris, food, wine and everything else - tres bon. Extra info: Michael Kalanty is an award-winning author, baker, and sensory scientist. He holds the patent for The Aroma & Flavor Chart for Bread©. His first book, How To Bake Bread: The Five Families of Bread® won the Gourmand International Award at the Paris Cookbook Fair (2011) for “Best Bread Book in the World”. Visit: www.MichaelKalanty.com Epicurean Exchange offers its Paris Bread & Pastry Tour each May. Visit www.EpicureanExchange. com for more about its portfolio of culinary explorations.
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CRUISING
BOB SIMPSON TALKS
Antarctica cruising ALISON GODFREY
Bob Simpson is Abercrombie & Kent’s Vice President of Expedition Cruising (USA). He’s worked with the brand for more than 20 years and his passion is Antarctica. Simpson has travelled to the continent on five separate expedition cruise vessels. MyDiscoveries caught up with Simpson in Australia recently. Here he talks about Antarctic cruising, philanthropy and experience. Q: What makes Antarctica such a special place to cruise? A: “It’s the most amazing wildlife destination on the planet! Antarctica has a wide variety of birdlife: primarily we see Adelie, Chinstrap, Gentoo and rockhopper penguins in there as well as King penguins as a bonus in South Georgia. It is not only the variety but the abundance that is spectacular. Beyond ornithology, marine mammals are in abundance. Antarctica has a variety of seal species including fur, elephant, leopard and Weddell as well as whales (humpback, minke and Orca). “ Beyond the wildlife, the spectacular scenery and combination of geology and ice is astounding. The history is compelling which we cover in detail outlining the great polar explorers. Finally, it’s one of the most photographic destinations, which is why we
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include an experienced photo coach on each journey to ensure guests get the maximum from their photography.” Which age groups are best suited to Antarctica cruises? “Any age is ideal! In particular, we find this is a great family destination. During the holidays over Christmas and New Year, A&K features our custom designed Young Explorer’s program. This specifically designed enrichment program caters for kids (at various levels) where our Experienced Young Explorer leaders bring Antarctica to life.” Q. How do you prepare for a cruise to Antarctica? A: “A&K provides guests in advance with a comprehensive list of the necessary and recommended items and gear for our expeditions. “We provide guests, once on board, with an expedition parka and backpack and the use of waterproof boots, pants and trekking poles for the journey. The key (and heavy) items are provided and waiting for them in their suite or stateroom once they arrive on board. “I believe that the key element of preparation is that of reading materials. Come prepared to ask our experts to go into more depth on the areas of wildlife, geology, marine environment and history that you will see.
Q. You’ve personally selected the A&K cruise ships – what would you say are their stand out features? A: “First and foremost, we need ships that match the expectations of comfort, luxury and amenity our guests expect. Not only in terms of the accommodation but also, the level of service, cuisine etc. “Secondly, the ship must be able to match our needs from an operational perspective to safely and efficiently deliver our brand of expedition. That includes the necessary number of Zodiacs, the experience of the deck crew, and safe and efficient loading system for our guests. “Finally, A&K is very specific to limit our capacity of guests to match the needs of our expedition programmes. Specifically, we limit the passengers on board to no more than 80 per cent of what our ships are designed to carry. This gives us three key and distinctive benefits: 1) We can guarantee private balcony staterooms or suites for all guests on board 2) We can most efficiently operate our field and excursion programmes 3) We can provide an incomparable service personnel to guest ratio. With the combination of the vessel’s crew as well as the extensive A&K staff, we are able to provide an exceptional level of guest service and a comfortable and more spacious environment on board. Q. How have you seen Antarctica change in the time you have been cruising there? A: “I have been involved with Antarctica operations for more than 20 years. Of course, now, we have more ships operating. As members of IAATO (International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators), we all work collaboratively to ensure that we are all doing our utmost to not only operate in a means that protects
the environment but also to provide our guests with an authentic wilderness experience. This, in fact, is one of the key successes of IAATO. Q. A&K is unique in its philanthropic aims, as well as providing great cruises, why has the company taken this action? A: “Philanthropy is in A&K’s DNA. It’s been an important priority for the company for many years. Likewise, it has been a priority for us to bring philanthropy to the areas in which we operate – including Antarctica. “Our efforts have been focused on both wildlife and the environment. They include funding for seabird conservation in the Southern Ocean, habitat restoration in South Georgia. We also fund equipment for researchers conducting climate change research including Dr James McClintock’s Long-Term Ecological Research Project – LTER which is based at the US Palmer Station in the Antarctic peninsula.” Q. Why should someone choose an A&K expedition cruise? A: “Anyone considering a journey to Antarctica, first and foremost, should consider the importance of experience. A&K’s nearly 30 years of operating experience in Antarctica speaks for itself. We are the second continuously operating company in Antarctica. “We also have one of the most comprehensive expedition teams. with among the industry’s highest level of experience in the Antarctic. That said, there are many operators and products in Antarctica which vary and aim at different segments of the market. For guests looking at the best combination of experience and a fully encompassing enrichment program on a luxury platform and at the highest level of service, A&K is an excellent option!
WHAT ARE THE BEST PLACES TO CRUISE ACROSS THE WORLD? @mydiscoveries @mydiscoveries info@mydiscoveries.com.au www.mydiscoveries.com.au 1300 404 606 M Y DI S COV E R I E S | w w w.myd i sc overi e s. c o m . au 4 7
CRUISING
GENTLY DOWN THE
Rhone
For a cruise that includes history, architecture, food, wine and local charm, France has the river with the goods! MAGGY OEHLBECK
BRIDGE OF AVIGNON AND THE POPES PALACE IN AVIGNON.
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‘THE RHONE IS FRANCE’S SECOND LONGEST RIVER AND THE ONLY MAJOR RIVER TO FLOW DIRECTLY INTO THE MEDITERRANEAN AT ARLES.’
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COURTYARD OF HOTEL DIEU, BEAUNE.
In a glass, on a plate or artist’s palette, the colours, flavours and spectacle of France’s Rhone river region leaves you breathless. As a sampler of French history, culture, glorious scenery, fabulous food and wine, it delivers by the barrel full. And what better way to see it than 360-degree views from the top deck of your river ship, or exploring medieval towns tucked in to the Provencale countryside awash with sunflowers, lavender and field poppies. Rhone river cruises sail south from Lyon or Chalon-sur-Saone for Arles, or reverse from Arles or Avignon to Lyon. Most are seven days. Others, if book-ended by stayovers in Paris or Nice are longer. My 11-day program began with two heady days of sightseeing in Paris including a show at Moulin 5 0 M Y D I SCOV ER I ES | www. m ydis cover ies. co m . au
Rouge before we headed south to Chalon-sur-Saone where our river ship awaited. Welcomed aboard with a glass of bubbly we are shown to our spacious, airconditioned stateroom with en suite bathroom. Those on upper decks had sliding glass windows with French balconies offering close-ups of daily life ashore. On-board camaraderie is contagious. There is no rigid dresscode, smart-casual does nicely at dinner. There is no fixed seating, menus are often five courses and table-wines are included. Nighttime entertainment might be a chanteuse belting out Edith Piaf favourites, a lively instrumental group, perhaps the ritual of how to drink Pastis and Valrhona chocolate tasting. We haven’t sailed yet. The river is running high so there is
time next morning to wander the picturesque town of Chalon with its half-timbered buildings, market stalls brimming with white asparagus, ox-blood tomatoes, artichokes, delectable cheeses and charcuterie and still fit in an excursion to Beaune - the unofficial wine capital of Burgundy. I seized the opportunity to buy little gift packs of mustards with traditional flavours of the region – Cassis, Tarragon and classic Dijon. Be sure to visit Beaune’s medieval masterpiece, the charity hospital Hotel-Dieu. See the hospital beds, chapel, pharmacy, and marvel at the superb, coloured-tile roof - symbol of the city. By now river levels have subsided sufficiently to sail. The Rhone is France’s second longest river and the only major river to flow directly into the Mediterranean at Arles.
VIEW OF LYON FROM THE TOP OF NOTRE DAME DE FOURVIERE.
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THE NAVE OF THE NOTRE DAME DE FOURVIERE BASILICA.
ROMAN AQUEDUCT PONT DU GARD, UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE. 5 2 M Y D I SCOV ER I ES | www. m ydis cover ies. co m . au
FIVE POINTS At Lyon the Saone merges with the Rhone. We glide respectfully past imposing chateaux, fortresses, abbeys, and pretty provincial towns cradled in the beautifullycultivated vine-scape. This is bigtime wine country. Entering Lyon is a spectacle to remember with the Basilica Notre Dame de Fourviere dominating the city skyline. Below, is the medieval part of the city. Worth a wander if time permits. Lyon is the gastronomic capital of France and home of the late celebrity chef Paul Bocuse. APT river cruises offer an opportunity to dine at Bocuse’s L’Abbaye de Collonges restaurant. Something more modest? Lyon has brasseries, bistros and patisseries a-plenty. Lyon was also the world’s silk capital where silk was woven for the aristocracy’s palaces, clothes and churches. A curious legacy are the traboules - a maze of covered passageways linking weavers’ (canuts) workshops and protecting priceless silk from weather damage. During WWII the traboules became hiding-places for the French Resistance. Visit the little museum La Maison des Canuts and watch an ancient loom at work, even buy a gorgeous silk scarf. Gently down the stream awaits a cluster of medieval towns -
Tournon, Tain, Viviers, then Avignon with its magnificent Papal Palace. Avignon vied with Rome as centre of Catholic faith in the 14th century. Meanwhile, nearby Chateauneufdu-Pape is revered for its wine. But you can’t dance across the bridge like the nursery song ‘Sur Le Pont d’Avignon’. It doesn’t span the river but is a great subject for a snap. Excursions included in your fare offer multiple choices. Those further afield are by coach accompanied by a cruise company escort and local expert. Captivating towns are Les Bauxde-Provence which appears perched on a limestone plinth - a stiff climb up! Other favourites are Uzes and Saint Remy-de-Provence, while Roman aqueduct Pont du Gard is overwhelming in scale and magnificence. Must-sees in Arles are the Roman amphitheatre, but perhaps it is the city’s link with tortured talent Vincent van Gogh that is most poignant. I swear we were berthed in exactly the spot where he painted ‘Starry Night’.
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1
The real name of the bridge in the nursery song ‘Sur le Pont d’Avignon’ is Pont SaintBenezet.
2
The three-tier, 2000-year old Roman aqueduct Pont du Gard was built without mortar.
3
Lyon is the gastronomic capital of France and former silk industry.
4
Besides the Roman ruins in Arles, visit the forum where Vincent’s presence is everywhere. Shop for pretty presents made from Les Tissus de Provence.
5
Visit the Camargue famous for its wild, white horses, flamingos, and Gardiens. (Horsemen similar to Gauchos).
CRUISING
GO WITH THE
Brahmaputra Flow This glorious journey along the liquid backbone of Assam opens up discovery of tea plantations, temples, forts, villages and wildlife.
IMAGE: JOHN BORTHWICK
JOHN BORTHWICK
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MV MAHABAAHU ON BRAHMAPUTRA.
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BRAHMAPUTRA RIVER SUNSET.
ASSAM DANCE PIPER.
ASSAMESE DANCER, MAJULI ISLAND.
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“This is the place to refresh your mind,” whispers our guide as we scope the plains from atop an elephant. The savannah of Kaziranga National Park in Assam, northeast India ripples in the dawn light as our ride rocks and rolls gently forward. Kaziranga is home to two superstars, the one-horned Indian rhinoceros and elusive Bengal tiger. For many species “superstar” status is sadly twinned with “critically endangered” but in at least in Kaziranga both these celebs are thriving, along with wild elephants, otters, eagles and Asiatic buffalo. Within ten minutes we spot our first rhino, grazing close-by, as massive, granite-armored and unperturbed as a four-legged boulder. Our next two hours in “the Serengeti of India” are a feast, so to speak, of hog deer, ibis, heron,
turquoise kingfishers and another half a dozen rhino. The 430sq.km park shelters 115 Bengal tigers, a wise species that long ago learned to keep its head down. The habit persists even within this World Heritage protection zone and on this morning the tigers remain characteristically elusive, invisible. Kaziranga is one of the highlights of our week aboard the cruise ship MV Mahabaahu as it heads down the great Brahmaputra River, the liquid backbone of Assam. Our 23-cabin ship has a light complement of guests on this voyage but they’re all good mixers, and include Swiss, French and expat Indians. Each day we go ashore to discover tea plantations, temples, forts or villages, and to look for wildlife, including some with eccentric names like the changeable eagle, adjutant stork and roof turtle.
Our first shore excursion is to Shivsagar, the ancient capital of the Tibeto-Burman Ahom kings who ruled northeastern India for six centuries until 1826. “Think of this as their sport stadium,” quips our guide as we wander the palace grounds of the Ahom dynasty. Royals and gentry sat in the balconies of the elegant, multistoreyed Rang Ghar pavilion and watched elephant games played on the wide maidan. Behind it we explore the upper levels the Talat Ghar, or Underground Palace, an Ahom military complex with kilometres of tunnels, including hangar-sized stables for elephants. The Yarlong-Brahmaputra River flows 3850km from Tibet, through India and Bangladesh, and down to the Bay of Bengal — a broad, vast river whose bunds and islands are yesterday’s Himalayan mountains sieved down to silt. On mornings M Y DI S COV E R I E S | w w w.myd i sc overi e s. c o m . au 5 7
IMAGES: JOHN BORTHWICK
GOLDEN LANGUR AT PEACOCK ISLAND.
IMAGES: JOHN BORTHWICK
MAJULI ISLAND MONKS DANCING.
when the water is a windless blue plain mirroring the sky I have to tear myself away from the vision and the open-air top deck to make it down to breakfast. Our very comfortable ship Mahabaahu, whose Sanskrit name means “Great Arms” (“Great Legs” wasn’t really an option), has a small pool, library, bar lounge, dining room, barbershop, ayurvedic spa and even an on-board tailor. My ensuite cabin features Brahmaputra-wide windows and a balcony, plus WiFi and airconditioning. We go ashore at Majuli, the world’s largest inhabited river island, although time and tides have whittled it down by more than half to around 520sq.km. Of the 200,000 people who live here many are of the animist Mishing tribe, but the 5 8 M Y D I SCOV ER I ES | www. m ydis cover ies. co m . au
island is also a centre for worship of the Hindu god Vishnu. We arrive at Kamlabari Satra, a Vaishnavite monastery, to witness its priests in their religious performance. Our guide advises, “dance for them is devotion to Vishnu not an entertainment, so even though you’re impressed, please don’t clap.” A dozen whiteclad priests carrying drums and cymbals flow into coordinated action, swaying to the building rhythm of their chants. The sound fills the temple as they increase the tempo, performing for Vishnu, not us. Our avid applause is the sound of one hand clapping. When we moor for the night beside deserted shores the top deck becomes the place for sundowners and watching the river dissolve into dusk. Out there, the
far bank is a duck-honking, rhinohiding, other world. At times like this, with a G n’ T at hand and the river murmuring its nothings, this feels like world peace if only for moments. Tiny Umananda or Peacock Island, just four hectares in area, claims to be (in contrast to massive Majuli) the world’s smallest inhabited river island. We find here a modest Shiva temple but even better is a rare golden langur monkey that’s prepared to linger for our photographs. Our final excursion, at Guwahati, is to the powerful Kamakhya Temple devoted to Shakti, the eternal feminine force. In otherwise uncrowded Assam, here we find hundreds of Hindu devotees queuing for hours to enter the temple’s inner sanctum. Blood and
BRAHMAPUTRA CARGO FERRY.
fertility, gods and goddesses are celebrated there, with religion as raw as existence. As I depart the ship for the last time, a Gangetic dolphin makes a fleeting appearancedisappearance splash in midstream. I take it as a fair substitute for having not spotted the changeable eagle or adjutant stork or even a roof turtle.
CABIN ON MV MAHABAAHU.
The writer travelled courtesy of Adventure Resorts and Cruises, and Cruise Traveller www.cruisetraveller.com.au
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THE SQUARE IN RIBEIRA, BESIDE THE DOURO RIVER IN PORTO IS LINED WITH COLOURFUL 18TH-CENTURY TOWNHOUSES. CLASSIC PORTUGUESE FOOD IS SERVED IN THE SMALL BARS AND EATERIES HERE.