Come Together

Jose Jeuland travelled to the north of Sri Lanka where he captured the Nallur Festival in Jaffna

DESTINATION: SRI LANKA

LOCATION: JAFFNA

atching the fishermen haul in their bulging nets of freshly caught fish was entertaining enough, but we soon discovered that this wasn’t the main attraction in Negombo. Unbeknownst to us, we had chosen to visit during the Nallur Festival, the largest Hindu festival in Sri Lanka.

As we walked closer towards the main square, the sounds of drums, horns and cymbals filled the air. The streets were buzzing with crowds of people in colourful outfits who were all making their way to the glittering Jaffna Nallur Kandaswamy Temple.

Today was part of a 25-day celebration, which locals said would see more than 600,000 worshippers visit the town throughout the month.

What made it even more poignant, was that some of the people who came to the festival were former refugees who had escaped the Civil War.

The atmosphere in the town was intoxicating. From the colourful outfits and the energetic music, to the rich sticky scent of peanuts that the market traders roasted by the roadside, it was a treat for all the senses.

I was told by some of the locals we met that worshippers take part in many customs, including going into a trance, piercing their body and tongue and breaking coconuts in front of the temple. But as we walked towards the temple, we mostly saw families laughing, eating and praying together.

As we reached the temple we could see men carrying huge floats upon their shoulders. Shaped

Worshippers carry a giant float on their shoulders.

Men crawl along the wet sand to show deference.

One of the youngest festival goers.

Worshippers join the festival.

like cobras and peacocks, these giant statues were balanced upon bamboo poles, which the men used all of their strength to keep aloft. They walked round and round in front of the temple holding the float as their legs buckled beneath them.

The heat of the Sri Lankan sun in August was unforgiving so the locals had sprayed water over the hot sandy streets to make it more comfortable for barefooted worshippers. As we had shed our shoes out of a sign of respect, I also appreciated the cool damp sand beneath my feet.

When we arrived at the temple it was such a sight to behold. I had never seen a building of such lustre and grandeur. This was even before I stepped inside. Entering the temple was akin to walking into a palace. The floor, walls and statues had all been created with great care and were a master class in craftsmanship. As much as I longed to capture these details on film, I had to keep my camera firmly in my bag as no photography was allowed.

But what I saw was enough to make me change my holiday plans. We arrived in Jaffna 10 days before the end of the festival. We had only intended to stay for a couple of days, but we were so intrigued by what we saw, we decided to stay until the final day. They told us that the festival would become more and more enthralling as time went on.

When we weren't at the festival we took the chance to visit the rest of Jaffna. We took a trip to the Dutch Fort and nearby waterfalls, but we would return to the festival on important days to lose

The Jaffna Nallur Kandaswamy Temple.

The temple was such a sight to behold. I have never seen such lustre and grandeur"

ourselves in the crowd and see who we could meet. Whether we would visit the festival in the morning or the afternoon, we would always see something different. On the last day, when we visited the festival we were packed like sardines. The sun was beating down upon us and there was not much of a breeze. It felt as if all the 600,000 people must have been there at that point.

But the wait was worth it as there was still one more visual treat in store. As it reached sunset, the devotees carried out their god in a chariot. The chariot was of such an incredible height. But what was more impressive was that it was being carried around using only human strength, as the worshippers were holding it aloft on their shoulders. It was truly a majestic sight.

The festival is a family event.

Watching the crowds walk by.

5 MORE ASIAN FESTIVALS TO PHOTOGRAPH

Warning! Carry a power pack (maybe two)

1. SNOW AND ICE FESTIVAL

China’s coldest city plays host to the annual Harbin International Ice & Snow Festival from now until February 2019. It showcases striking works of art, sculpted with ice from the Songhua River.

2. SONGKRAN

Songkran marks the beginning of the traditional Thai New Year. Locals will be celebrating from 13 to 15 April 2019 by soaking anyone in the vicinity with buckets of water and water pistols. The temples will be bustling as followers visit to leave offerings.

3. HOLI FESTIVAL

The Festival of Colours celebrates the end of winter and beginning of spring. A Holika bonfire that represents burning the devil will take place on the night of 20 March 2019, then a day of festivities follows, including colour water fights and dancing in the street.

You’ll find Holi celebration in India, Nepal and many parts of South Asia.

4. BALI KITE FESTIVAL

This is not your typical kite festival… the Bali Kite Festival that runs from July to October 2019 not only tests everyone’s kiteflying skills, but also sends thanks to the Hindu Gods for an abundant harvest. Teams comprise 70 to 80 people, 10 of which are needed to fly the kite. The competition is as intense as the festivities.

5. THIMPHU TSECHU

The Thimphu Tsechu from 8 to 10 October 2019 in Bhutan is the country’s biggest social gathering. Expect Cham Dances, colourful national costumes and lots of laughter. The festival commemorates the birth of Bhutan’s patron saint, Padmasambhava, who introduced Buddhism to the country.