P o l a r E x pe d i t i o n Cruises
Ta i lor - m a d e J o u r n e y s
for
the
D i s c e r n i n g T r av e l l e r
Dear Traveller The photographs of the polar regions in this brochure say more than I ever could about these astounding places. Nowhere on this Earth is more remote or breathtaking than the Arctic or Antarctica. You could head north to spot polar bears and marvel at the countless guillemots making sheer cliff faces their home. You could sail across the wild southern oceans, watching wandering albatross skimming the waves to find yourself standing among vast penguin colonies. Images of huge icebergs, dramatic snow covered landscapes and explorers of bygone eras will have inspired you to see it for yourself, and it is clear that any trip to these regions is unique and will provide you with stories for a lifetime. So, take some time to look at this brochure and get a sense of what to expect, but nothing beats speaking to one of our Polar specialists who will be delighted to share their experience and talk you through the options for your own Arctic or Antarctic exploration.
Craig Burkinshaw, Founder
Introducing Audley I
t was a trip around Asia in the early 1990s that ignited Craig Burkinshaw’s passion for travel. On his return he was so keen to share his experiences that he founded Audley, or Asian Journeys as we were then called. We offered a new type of travel – individual journeys, designed to match the traveller’s interests, tastes and budget, created with an absolute commitment to quality and authenticity. Today this desire to share authentic travel experiences is undiminished and Audley is one of the UK’s most highly regarded specialist tour operators, providing tailor-made trips throughout Asia, Africa, the Middle East, Latin America, Australasia, North America, Antarctica and the Arctic.
Specialist knowledge Our Polar specialists have all travelled to one or both of the polar regions so you can rely on their extensive knowledge and experience. They also regularly inspect the expedition vessels in order to keep up-to-date on all options and meet the expedition guides and crew. This first-hand knowledge of both the destinations and the boats means that our specialists rightly pride themselves on having an honest ‘tell it how it is’ approach to setting your expectations and planning your trip. Additionally we do not have affiliations to any particular polar operators so are genuinely impartial, meaning that your trip is designed entirely with your interests in mind.
Before & after the cruise
Tour operator protection
You may wish to do more than just an expedition cruise. You might want to spend a few days either side of your journey seeing some of the sights of South America, Australia, New Zealand or Canada. We have first-hand knowledge of all these destinations, and will ensure that your entire trip is carefully tailored to exactly what you want to do.
Booking a polar expedition cruise with Audley means that you are protected financially and operationally every step of the way. This is not the case if you book a cruise directly with the boat operator. The cruise price will be the same, but the raft of security factors will be absent. Booking the entire trip including international flights with us means that we, not you, are responsible for ensuring the operation of the trip. If there are problems with flight delays or cancellations, or strikes or anything else operationally out of your control, then we would have to change your trip at no extra cost to you. Even if we only book the cruise for you we are responsible for any cruise issues in the unlikelihood any arise. Booking with Audley guarantees full peace of mind.
How to plan your polar trip Once you have some ideas for your trip, or if you just want some general guidance, call one of our Polar specialists on 01993 838 651. They can offer advice and discuss your plans with you before creating a detailed itinerary, which will be forwarded to you together with maps, boat information and a price. Your specialist can then continue to refine the plans until you are completely satisfied, and they will be your contact from the start of the planning process until you return from your trip.
Financial security All travel arrangements in this brochure that include a flight from the UK are ATOL protected by the Civil Aviation Authority. Our ATOL number is 4817. Those package arrangements which are not protected by our ATOL are covered by ABTOT, the Association of Bonded Travel Organisers Trust. Please see our booking conditions for more information or visit www.audleytravel.com/protect
Contents Introduction 2-7 The Arctic 8-19 Svalbard 10-15 Wildlife of Svalbard
12-13
Rest of the Arctic
16-19
Antarctica 20-31 Antarctic Peninsula
22-27
East Antarctica
28-31
Expedition vessels 32-38 Useful information 39
Introduction
3
Experience
polar cruising T
his brochure has many aims: to inspire, to explain, to simplify and to inform about the practicalities of polar expedition cruising. Within the following pages we aim to have included the information you need to start planning your polar journey. We are aware of the plethora of choices that face you when you start this process, and so our hope is that by narrowing down the options to our most trusted vessels, based on our years of experience inspecting the boats and also client feedback, we have made the starting point easier for you. We have also experienced or researched the different destinations and itineraries, allowing us to fit the best option to your preferences and expectations.
Icebergs off Greenland
Polar bear and cub, Spitsbergen
Where do you mean by ‘polar’? For the purposes of this brochure we are including cruises that take in areas north of the 60° north latitude and south of the 60° south latitude, or in other words cruises that are within the Arctic Circle or Arctic Ocean, and cruises within the continent of Antarctica and the Southern Ocean. We are also being a little liberal with the definition of polar, and including some islands that are classified as ‘sub-Antarctic’ such as South Georgia, the Falklands and Macquarie, as well as Iceland and parts of Baffin Island in Canada, as these places are visited by boats that sail on to the polar regions.
What is polar expedition cruising all about? It’s about emptiness. Peace. Wildlife. Scenery. Icebergs. Learning. Being adventurous. Being relaxed. It’s about being so remote that you know more people have stood on top of Everest than in Shackleton’s hut. It’s about experiencing and immersing yourself in the environment. It’s about going to all seven continents. Everyone comes back with a different highlight, a special moment that made their polar trip unique. Most come back having made many new friends as the nature of this type of cruising, where like-minded people are in close proximity and sharing amazing experiences, means that it is almost impossible not to. But beware – people get hooked on polar exploration. Your first trip may not be your last. Humpback whale, Antarctica
4
Houses in Longyearbyen, Svalbard
Should I go to the Arctic or Antarctica? The choice can be down to the time of year you wish to travel, how much time you have (trips to the Arctic can be considerably shorter overall than Antarctica trips) or financial considerations (the Arctic can also be a less expensive option). Or the decision can be as simple as: which would you prefer to see – polar bears or penguins?
When should I go? There are short and specific seasons for travel to both polar regions: June to early September for the Arctic, and November to early March for Antarctica. Within those time frames some of the wildlife species can only be spotted at certain times. Our specialists will be able to talk you through the details.
Group returning from a mountaineering excursion, Antarctic Peninsula
Is it really cold?
Responsible Travel
It can be. Equally you could be eating a barbecue on deck in just a t-shirt. All we can say is that you need to be prepared for any eventuality (and it is fair to say the t-shirt will be the rarity!). The boats themselves are always toasty inside, so however cold you may get outside, you will warm up quickly back on board.
We care deeply about the places we travel to, and we work hard to ensure your visit has a positive effect. We seek out experiences and places to stay which mirror our passion, and invariably we find that these are the most rewarding.
Do I need to be fit? You need to be able to manoeuvre yourself from the expedition boat onto the gangway and steps down into the Zodiac, and to get out of the Zodiac on shore. But beyond that, it is possible to enjoy a polar cruise with any level of fitness. Excursions are generally divided into ones which cover a bit more ground on foot, and ones which stay on or around the shore. The expedition guides are very adept at ensuring everyone can enjoy and partake in the experience.
Crabeater seal, Antarctica
Wherever we can, we use local people and businesses as our partners in destinations. Not only do we feel this gives you the best experience, it also brings benefits to local communities. The benefit also spreads further. Local people are motivated to preserve what attracts visitors, be it the culture, wildlife or environment. Conversely, we actively avoid ‘tourist traps’. The carbon footprint of flying is relatively large and we’d encourage you to carbon offset your flights. IAATO: The International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators was established in 1991 recognising the potential impact of the thousands of visitors to Antarctica each year. The aim is clear – ‘to practice and promote the highest possible standards of travel in this remote, wild and delicate region of the world.’ For us, it is vital that all boat operators that we use are members of this organisation. As such they are bound to ensure minimal environmental impact on the regions they visit. They must also
comply with the landing restrictions set in place, this includes the regulation preventing more than 100 passengers on land at any one time. IAATO members must also ensure that they employ the best qualified staff and field personnel and provide continued training and education. For more details please visit www.iaato.org. AECO: The Association of Arctic Expedition Cruise Operators is dedicated to ensuring that expedition cruises to the Arctic are environmentally-friendly, safe and carried out with the utmost consideration for the environment, both natural and historical. Members of AECO must operate within the by-laws and guidelines set by the organisation and the national and international communities within whose territory they are operating. These regulations cover every aspect of an expedition to the Arctic, governing everything from wildlife viewing distances and firearm safety in relation to polar bears, to Zodiac operations and clothing. All the operators we use in the Arctic are members of AECO. It is vital to us that not only do these trips adhere to these tight guidelines but also that Audley travellers can visit these destinations knowing that everything possible is being done to not only limit the impact of their visit but also that there are benefits for local communities. For more details please visit www.aeco.no/objectives.
01993 838 651 • Introduction
5
A typical
polar day O
n the following two pages we want to share with you the experience of a typical day on an expedition cruise in the Arctic or Antarctic. This is based on our own experience and that of our clients and aims to give you an idea of what a quintessential day during a polar expedition cruise will be like. Of course most cruises will have full days at sea to and from your destination, which will not be like the day described below, but overall we think it gives a good idea of what to expect.
Kayaking among the icebergs, Antarctica
Waking up
Out and about
Your day will start with an early morning wake-up call around 7am which is piped through to your cabin. It may be whale sounds, the dulcet tones of the expedition leader or music: either way, you need to get up because the polar world is out there for you to see and you won’t want to miss a moment. Take a cup of tea out on deck and enjoy the silence and solitude.
So, you’re off the boat – now what? You could be doing one of several things: taking a walk on land to a magnificent viewpoint, enjoying a Zodiac cruise below towering icebergs or spectacular bird cliffs, just finding a quiet spot to sit and take it all in, or maybe you are being adventurous and going kayaking in the frigid waters. Logistics differ depending on location but you will usually be in small groups with an English-speaking expedition guide.
Breakfast Breakfast is ‘buffet-style’ so make the most of it as you will soon be spending time out in the cold. As with the vast majority of meals on board these expedition vessels, breakfast is in one sitting and is free seating.
Getting ready View across the Arctic tundra, Spitsbergen
Now it is time to start the process of getting ready for your morning disembarkation. This means carefully layering your clothes: thermals, fleeces, jackets, hats, gloves and more. Gauging it right is a bit hit and miss, especially as the weather can change almost in an instant, but remember that you can always remove layers when onshore but you can’t go back to get more. Now grab your camera, put a chocolate bar in your pocket and head to the gangways.
Back to the boat Although you won’t want to, you have to go back to your expedition vessel and be counted back on board. A cup of hot chocolate will no doubt be waiting for you, especially if it has been a particularly cold morning.
Lunch Time for lunch, generally another buffet, followed by time to relax, eat and share stories about your morning excursion.
Disembarking
Boarding your Zodiac
There may be a little bit of queuing on board before actually stepping onto the gangway so you may feel a little hot in all your outdoor gear before going down the steps and getting onto the Zodiac (a rigid-hulled inflatable dinghy with an outboard motor), but all of the expedition crew are well practised at getting everyone off (and back on) the boat efficiently.
Chinstrap penguins, Antarctica
6
Photographing a leopard seal, Antarctica
Lecture, siesta or deck time?
Dinner
As the boat sails to your next destination there may be a bit of a choice to make about what to do now. You could choose to attend a lecture by one of the expedition guides on their specialist polar subject, be it glaciology, birds or history. Alternatively you may want to have a bit of a snooze, or perhaps you will decide to wrap up warm again and take your place on deck. You may even have the deck to yourself as everyone else sleeps, reads or sits in a lecture.
Usually this will be à la carte table-service, although if the sun is shining it could be a barbecue on deck. Whatever it is, take your coat and camera with you as you never know what animals could come into view whilst you are eating and you may need to make a quick exit to the deck.
Evening
Time to layer up again for the next excursion. This is when you will be glad you brought two pairs of everything, as this morning’s clothes are probably still drying off.
After dinner the expedition leader will probably do a recap of the day and prepare you for the following day’s excursions. Then it is time to relax in the bar, observation lounge or on deck. Remember that it will also remain light long into the night, if not for all of it, which in itself is a remarkable experience.
Disembarking (again)
Sleeping
Same again – go to the disembarkation area, down the steps, onto the Zodiac and off to explore the next fascinating destination.
An early night is probably best as you will have another early start in the morning. The boat will probably be sailing on to the next destination so the gentle movement should rock you to sleep.
Getting ready (again)
Warming up and drinks before dinner Time now for a hot shower, a change of clothes (clean and dry is all that is required as on board life is very casual) and maybe a drink in the bar with your fellow passengers.
Deviations from a typical polar day Many days don’t go like this as almost anything can happen. Here are a few of the tales we have heard over the years: n B eing
woken at midnight to see the rarely spotted aurora Australis.
n Dinner
being abandoned as a pod of orca pass the ship.
n Stopping
the boat for hours on end to watch fin whales feeding and playing.
n Re-routing
the entire trip to get to a whale carcass that was attracting polar bears from miles around.
n Everyone
stops what they are doing to see five blue whales swim around the ship.
n Sitting
on deck in the midnight sun and being rewarded by the sight of a pod of beluga whales.
n Watching
katabatic winds whip up a calm sea into a maelstrom in a matter of minutes.
n B eing
in the pack ice and having a polar bear pad gently around the ship, sniffing out the kitchen.
01993 838 651 • Introduction
7
The Arctic H
arsh and unforgiving but full of spectacular landscapes, the Arctic is home to just a few hardy souls and some incredible wildlife. This ‘kingdom of the polar bear’ at the very top of the world has become the barometer for concern about global warming due to the changing pattern of the yearly ice melt. Spanning an ocean, the northernmost tips of three continents and part of the largest island in the world, it becomes accessible to expedition cruise vessels during the brief summer thaw when the ice recedes and the wildlife emerges out of hibernation or arrives on a long annual migration. Birds, whales, seals and polar bears, along with musk oxen, walrus, caribou and arctic foxes enjoy a seasonal feast, and wildflowers burst into bloom in the relative warmth of the 24-hour daylight. Watch in awe as a polar bear sniffs out your boat and tracks you down, gaze upon fin whales feeding languidly in mill-pond seas, visit small Inuit communities and abandoned whaling huts, walk on water – in the form of pack ice, of course – or just enjoy the midnight sun on deck. A stunning journey awaits.
Audley in the Arctic ARCTIC CIRCLE
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We can compare all these different expedition options for you, as well as giving practical information and advice about the cruise vessels, trip duration, and travel to and from the embarkation points. Please note that all itineraries for Arctic cruises are dependent on the judgement of the ship’s captain, based on the weather, ice and sea conditions. Whilst we have mentioned many places in this brochure, and have detailed several itineraries, we need to stress that no specific destinations and landings are certainties. Please also note that as the Arctic is the ‘kingdom of the polar bear’ you will not be allowed to explore independently when you are on shore excursions.
Chukotcha Bering Sea
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The Arctic is not just about polar bears, although seeing these magnificent creatures is paramount to many travellers. Some expeditions around Greenland and Canada’s Baffin Island are focused on the social culture of the region; some, such as the trip around Scoresby Sund in East Greenland, are all about the astounding scenery and glaciers; others are simply about being in wonderfully remote locations such as Wrangel Island and Russia’s Chukotcha region, and one expedition is dedicated specifically to getting you to the North Pole. The most visited part of the Arctic, however, is Spitsbergen, an island in the Norwegian Svalbard archipelago where polar bears and whales are sighted on almost every trip and the scenery is spectacular.
ALASKA (USA) T TT
Encompassing a vast region including the Arctic Ocean as well as several land masses, expedition cruising in the Arctic offers a large choice of destinations, all with unique highlights.
FINLAND ICELAND
1 Spitsbergen
A R C T I C C IR C L E
SWEDEN
3 The Northwest Passage
An island teeming with wildlife, where polar bears outnumber humans amid stunning Arctic landscapes. See page 11 2 The North Pole
Travel on a nuclear-powered icebreaker for one of the most unusual cruises in the world. See page 19
Sail through the legendary route that eluded and challenged seafarers for hundreds of years. See page 17 Pack ice Experience the loud cracking as your expedition vessel crunches through the pack ice, splintering it in all directions. Icebergs Sculpted into all manner of sizes, colours and shapes, the icebergs have a sophisticated beauty all of their own.
Polar bears These magnificent creatures roam the Arctic region and any sighting, be it a lone male or a mother with cub, will be imprinted on your memory forever. Walrus Huge, wobbly, lazy and smelly, and yet quite magnificent, wandering near a walrus colony on the shore is quite an experience.
www.audleytravel.com/arctic • 01993 838 652 • Arctic
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Svalbard (Spitsbergen) L
ittered with towering, jagged cliffs, ancient ice-caps and glaciers sweeping magnificently down to the sea, home to just 2,500 people, the Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard is simply stunning. This mesmerising region, more commonly known by the name of its largest island, Spitsbergen, is a breathtaking place where walrus wallow on the beaches and whales breach in the icy seas. However, the main attraction for many visitors is the fact that over 3,000 polar bears are believed to live here – on the land, on the edges of the ice and swimming in the surrounding seas. Sightings of these fearless, fearsome and fast animals will be one of the highlights of your Arctic adventure. Exploring here in the summer when the archipelago just about frees itself of the sea ice, and the magnificent scenery and wildlife basks in 24-hour daylight, is truly unique.
Audley in Svalbard Visiting Svalbard is the ‘classic’ Arctic cruise experience: it is easy to get to the embarkation point, the seas are calm, you will more than likely see polar bears, and the scenery is stunning. Getting to Longyearbyen, the tiny settlement on the island of Spitsbergen where you will board your vessel, is simple: it’s just a flight from Oslo. The cruises around this archipelago vary in length between one and two weeks: some have the
simple focus of providing polar bear sightings and will concentrate their itinerary around the areas where they are most commonly sighted, while others attempt to circumnavigate the entire island of Spitsbergen, and some visit the more remote and isolated islands. The expedition boats vary in size, comfort and facilities, and our specialists will be able to help you decide which is the best option for you.
Walruses, Svalbard
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Svalbard’s permanent population is split between the hub of Longyearbyen, the Russian mining community at Barentsburg, and the research community of Ny-Alesund. Two-thirds of the land is protected as a national park and pack ice hems the archipelago in for much of the year. The sun sets for good in the winter, but in the summer months, with its return the flora and fauna thrives.
Phippsøya
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Svalbard is a Viking word meaning ‘cold coast’ and is the official name for the whole archipelago. Spitsbergen, which is the name of the largest island, means ‘pointed mountains’ in Dutch and was given this apt moniker by explorers in the 16th century. This is the most northerly part of Norway’s territory, halfway between mainland Europe and the North Pole itself. Although the scenery varies throughout the archipelago, craggy mountains cleaved by creaking glaciers will set the backdrop for your adventure.
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Edgeøya
Spitsbergen A colourful and modern town, Longyearbyen was largely rebuilt after being shelled during World War II. It is here, in the administrative capital of Svalbard on Spitsbergen, that you will board your expedition vessel, but before that it’s worth spending some time exploring. Snowmobiles are parked outside houses, no one leaves town without a rifle on them, and you can eat your evening meal watching a reindeer grazing outside. The world’s most northerly settlement is Ny-Alesund, an international research community that was formerly a mining village. It was served by the world’s most northerly railway which is there to see today. Also here is the airship anchoring mast used by Roald Amundsen and Umberto Nobile on their expeditions to the North Pole. In the far north of Spitsbergen lies Hinlopen Strait where the mesmerising cliffs of Alkefjellet play host to thousands of nesting guillemots. In the south, the fjord of Hornsund is renowned for its glacier fronts, icebergs and imposing mountains, while Bellsund has a gentler, lusher landscape, once a rich ground for hunters and trappers whose shelters remain to this day.
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1 Hinlopen Strait At Alkefjellet sheer cliffs rise from the clear waters and teem with thousands of nesting Brunnich’s guillemots rearing their young. 2 Ny-Alesund The world’s northernmost community is a former mining village and now an important international Arctic research centre.
Polar bears Spotting one, or hopefully several, will always be momentous.
Brunnich’s guillemots 3 Longyearbyen A fascinating outpost with cosy bars and informative museums, great for exploring before you board your boat.
Beluga whales See the heartbreaking piles of skulls from the whaling days in Van Keulenfjorden, then rally at a possible sighting of these graceful creatures swimming before you now that their numbers have recovered.
Other islands Nordaustlandet, the largest island in the north of Svalbard, is a nature reserve almost entirely covered by an ice-cap. This is the real High Arctic, with a harsher climate than the south but great wildlife viewing. The easterly island of Barentsoya is a good place for spotting polar bears as they cross the sea ice. Further south is Edgeoya, home to prolific birdlife and herds of reindeer.
Krossfjorden, Spitsbergen
Beluga whale
www.audleytravel.com/arctic • 01993 838 652 • Arctic
11
Humpback whale
Wildlife of Svalbard An expedition cruise around Svalbard is all about the incredible scenery and the surprisingly (considering the harsh climate) abundant wildlife. Although few animals make a permanent home here, the hardy locals are joined by many thousands who arrive in summer to feast in the rich feeding grounds, mate, breed, fledge and rear their young. The onset of winter sees many of these fleeting visitors head south again, and as temperatures drop to as low as -20C (-4F) and the sun dips below the horizon for a full six months, it becomes obvious why few species can survive here year-round. The majestic polar bear is of course one of those which does make this unforgiving landscape their year-round home and they have become one of the main draws for Arctic visitors. Perfectly adapted for life in this cruel habitat, this is truly their kingdom, and to be a guest in it is a privilege. But it’s not just about the emblematic polar bear. The wildlife sighting opportunities here will satisfy everyone from casual aficionados to the most ardent wildlife buff. Here we will take a look at some of Svalbard’s highlights in the air, the sea and on land.
Atlantic puffin
12
Arctic tern
In the water and on the ice The waters of the Arctic are rich with krill, shellfish and squid which attract a large number of marine mammals to the region throughout the year. To be more precise there are 12 species that regularly inhabit Arctic waters: four types of whale, the walrus, six seal species and of course the polar bear. Marine mammals are predators that capture their prey on or in the oceans and although it is rare to see them in action, it is easy to imagine the speed and power they possess once you’ve seen them with your own eyes.
In the air Every summer thousands of seabirds migrate to the coastal cliffs of Svalbard. From Atlantic puffins to Arctic terns, great and Arctic skuas to little auks, as well as Brunnich’s guillemots and snow buntings, the birdlife in Svalbard is simply mesmerising. Most birds you will see are migratory and take advantage of the long summer days to nest and feed. Ivory and glaucous gulls are particularly abundant, circling your boat as you sail, or swooping around the nesting sites of auks and guillemots, waiting to pounce. They can also be a good indication of a nearby prowling polar bear as they like to pick up the remains of their seal kills. Wildlife experts on board your ship will be on hand to identify any birdlife you see, but a good bird book and some binoculars will help enormously with independent identification.
Walruses on an iceberg
Polar bears In Svalbard it is said that there are more polar bears than humans and the vast majority of cruises here encounter at least one of these magnificent creatures. But the Arctic climate and environment are changing and this is causing difficulties for the bears. They prowl the edge of the sea ice looking for seals, their main prey, but each year the ice is melting more quickly, earlier and to a larger extent making it increasingly hard for the bears to hunt. Possibly the most solitary animals in the world, males and females only come together to mate or if there is a large kill or food source with enough meat to sustain more than one bear. Male polar bears generally leave their mother and start to roam alone from about the age of two. Female bears breed every two years and then spend the following two years teaching their cubs to survive alone in the frozen lands and seas of Svalbard. Any polar bear sighting is a wonderful experience; however, seeing an adult male on his hind quarters rising up to nearly three metres in height is simply unforgettable. But while they are a majestic sight, it must never be forgotten that polar bears are also a real and present danger. They can run at speeds of up to 50 kilometres per hour and it is best to assume they are always hungry. For this reason the vast majority of sightings are made from your boat or Zodiac as being on land near a bear is strictly forbidden. If at any point during a land-based excursion a polar bear is spotted you will be quickly ushered back to the safety of the Zodiacs so the bear can gaze at you curiously – and hungrily – from the shore. Seals Ringed, bearded and hooded seals are commonly seen around Svalbard either splashing away in the icy waters, resting on an iceberg or being devoured by a polar bear. However, the most iconic member of the Arctic’s seal family is the walrus, a rather comical looking creature with a large blubbercoated body and enormous tusks which are used to dig shellfish from the seabed. Despite their size, clams are the walrus’ main food source and thousands can be consumed in a single feeding session. Walrus spend hours at sea eating then haul up on shore in large numbers to rest. This always makes for an interesting but noisy and smelly spectacle.
Bearded seal
Polar bear
It is not clear where the name ‘walrus’ came from and theories on its origin suggest a connection to Old Norse words for horse or whale, but our favourite definition is that of ‘tooth walker’. If you are lucky enough to see these apparently slovenly creatures hauling themselves out of the water using their tusks you will immediately understand why.
Bowhead whales are a large baleen whale and were the first whale species to be harvested intensively in Svalbard in the 17th century. They are now considered an endangered species and the population around Svalbard is still small. The beluga whale is extremely shy but these amazing white creatures have been spotted on several Svalbard cruises in recent years.
Whales Bowhead, beluga (the ‘white whale’) and the narwhal are the three truly Arctic whale species in that they make the waters around Svalbard their home. However, many other species that can and have been sighted here include blue, fin, humpback, minke, pilot and orca. It was in pursuit of these magnificent creatures that man first made landfall in this region and Svalbard is littered with the evidence of an industry that nearly wiped out many species. However, the whale populations are on the rise again and anyone visiting the area has a good chance of seeing whales at some point during their trip.
On the land There are very few animals living year-round in the harsh environment in Svalbard. Those that do display expert adaptations to the extreme conditions in which they live and an uncanny ability to eke out enough food for survival and reproduction. Along with polar bears you should be able to spot both the arctic fox and some Svalbard reindeer. The Arctic fox has excellent camouflage with a white winter coat and a brown summer one perfectly matched to the tundra tones. Reindeer have been a protected species here since 1925 and so have little fear of humans and will continue grazing near you as you walk by. The only landinhabiting bird to remain in Svalbard year-round is the rock ptarmigan.
It is easy to while away a few hours on deck both scanning the seas for whales, and then, if you are lucky, watching a pod of fin or minke as they feed or play, though you will have to keep your eyes peeled for the elusive, almost mythical, narwhal. The most recent sightings of narwhals in Svalbard have been in the fjords in Nordaustlandet. The narwhal’s long spiralled tusk is predominantly seen in males and can be up to three metres long. Any sighting is sure to bring the ship to a halt.
Arctic fox
www.audleytravel.com/arctic • 01993 838 652 • Arctic
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Monacobreen glacier, Spitsbergen
Tailoring your trip
Practicalities
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of the types of cruise that are possible. Not all routes in and around Spitsbergen and the Svalbard archipelago are shown here, and the itineraries can change each year. For the most up-to-date information please call one of our Arctic specialists to start planning your journey.
Cruises around Spitsbergen and the Svalbard archipelago all depart from the tiny settlement of Longyearbyen on Spitsbergen. There are daily flights here via the Norwegian mainland. We recommend all itineraries have a minimum of one day on the mainland (either in Norway or in Longyearbyen itself) prior to boarding, just in case of any delays, as your boat will not wait for you.
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Expedition cruises around Spitsbergen are only possible between late June and early September when the sea ice has receded sufficiently to allow the vessels to sail. At this time the average temperature is 2-4C (35.5-39F), but while the wind-chill factor can lower this markedly, it can also sometimes be surprisingly warm and sunny. Time difference: GMT +1 hour
Prices Cabin type is the main factor affecting the price of these cruises. You can find up-to-date guideline prices on our website, alternatively please call our Arctic specialists to discuss your plans.
Wildlife spotting, Svalbard
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North Spitsbergen The archetypal Arctic cruise, this journey is an action-packed but succinct trip to Spitsbergen. Boarding your boat in Longyearbyen, you will then sail the waters, islets and coves of this beautiful island, always on the lookout for polar bears, walrus, whales and the region’s remarkable birdlife. Day 1
Fly from Oslo to Longyearbyen. Transfer to your hotel and start getting used to the 24-hour daylight.
Day 2
After a morning to explore Longyearbyen and the excellent Polar Museum you will board your expedition vessel and set sail out of Isfjorden.
Day 3
Sail into Liefdefjorden to see the Monaco Glacier and take a walk on the flowering tundra.
Day 4
Arrive in Krossfjorden and get up close to the magnificent face of the 14th July Glacier. In the afternoon visit the world’s most northerly settlement of Ny-Alesund.
Day 5
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Sail into the Hinlopen Strait, keeping a lookout for bearded and ringed seals. Explore the bird cliffs of Alkefjellet in the Zodiacs. Ice permitting, arrive at Phippsoya, north of Nordaustlandet, the northernmost point of the trip, and just 540 miles from the North Pole.
Day 7
Visit beautiful Raudfjord which is full of glaciers and seabirds.
Day 8
Arrive at Prins Karls Forland, where you will see remnants of a polar bear hunting station comprising huts and traps, and take a walk to a walrus haul out.
Day 9
Disembark in Longyearbyen and fly south to Oslo, connecting with your onward flight.
Arctic Circle
Spitsbergen Circumnavigation
Spitsbergen & Northeast Greenland
If you have a little more time this cruise takes a longer route, and will attempt, sea ice permitting, to make a full circumnavigation around the island of Spitsbergen, giving more opportunities to see the incredible wildlife and scenery of the region.
This route starts amongst the mountains and glaciers of Spitsbergen before sailing to Greenland to explore the magnificent and incredibly remote Scoresby Sund. This trip is more about the scenery and the culture than the wildlife, although you will no doubt spot countless seabirds and possibly whales too. This itinerary only operates in late August and early September.
Day 1
Fly from Oslo to Longyearbyen. Transfer to your hotel and explore the town in the 24-hour daylight.
Day 2
Visit Longyearbyen’s Polar Museum and walk around the town, keeping an eye out for arctic foxes. In the late afternoon you will board your ship and set sail along Isfjorden.
Day 1
Fly from Oslo to Longyearbyen.
Day 2
After a morning to explore Longyearbyen and its excellent museums you will board your ship and set sail along Isfjorden.
Arrive in Krossfjorden and get up close to the magnificent face of the 14th July Glacier. In the afternoon visit the world’s most northerly settlement of Ny-Alesund.
Day 3
Visit beautiful Raudfjord, which is full of glaciers and seabirds, and observe a walrus haul out.
Day 4
Sail into Liefdefjorden to see the Monaco Glacier and take a walk on the flowering tundra.
Day 6
Day 5
Arrive at Phippsoya, the northernmost point of the trip.
Days 7-8 Sail south down the beautiful Greenland coast.
Day 6
Explore Laagoya, a small island with a resident herd of walrus.
Day 9
Day 7
Sail into the Hinlopen Strait. Marvel at the Brunnich’s guillemots nesting on the cliffs of Alkefjellet. Take a walk in the polar desert on Nordaustlandet, home to the world’s third largest ice-cap.
Arrive in Scoresby Sund and start sailing inland, past glaciated cliffs and drifting icebergs. Visit the remains of a 19 th century Inuit settlement.
Day 10
Continue exploring Scoresby Sund keeping a lookout for musk oxen as you sail through fjords.
Day 11
Continue sailing through Scoresby Sund, with possible sightings of kilometre-long icebergs.
Day 12
Anchor up at the settlement of Ittoqqortoormiit. Take a wander to see the husky sled dogs used during the harsh winters and the drying seal, ox and polar bear skins.
Day 13
Set sail across the Denmark Strait to northern Iceland. Look out for whales and, if you are lucky, the aurora borealis.
Day 14
Come into port in Akureyri and transfer by road to Reykjavik.
Day 15
Your onward flight.
Day 3
Day 8
Sail to the island of Barentsoya, take a tundra walk to spot reindeer, keeping a lookout for polar bears.
Day 9
Explore the peaceful side fjords of Hornsund where towering mountain peaks are cloaked by glaciers.
Day 10
Land in Van Keulenfjorden to see thousands of skulls piled up on the beach, a haunting reminder of the beluga whale trade. However, the species now thrives here.
Day 11
Disembark in Longyearbyen and fly south to Oslo, connecting with your onward flight.
Days 4-5 At sea on the way to Greenland. Dependent on sea ice, sail into the dramatic Kaiser Franz Josef Fjord or Sofia Sund.
www.audleytravel.com/arctic • 01993 838 652 • Arctic
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Rest of the Arctic D
elving into many remote communities, fjords and lands, expedition cruising in the Arctic Ocean can take you well off and far beyond the beaten path. As well as the spectacular scenery and myriad wildlife-viewing opportunities including birdlife and marine mammals, you can learn about the fascinating social and cultural history of Inuit communities who make this unforgiving region their home. Other adventures include sailing the famed Northwest Passage which eluded seafarers for hundreds of years, or exploring the Russian outposts of Chukotka and Wrangel Island. There is even an opportunity to board an icebreaker and crunch through the pack ice to the North Pole itself. Be prepared to be amazed, excited, enthralled and chilled.
Audley in the rest of the Arctic Eight countries have territory lying within the Arctic Circle and there are expedition cruises around the coasts, fjords and islands of Greenland, Canada, Alaska and Russia. There is also an ice-breaking expedition to the North Pole on board a mammoth nuclear-powered vessel. With so many cruise options, it’s a good idea to speak to someone who can talk you through the possible itineraries as some expeditions have a focus on culture rather than
wildlife spotting, some traverse rough seas, and others have a historical angle based on Northwest Passage exploration. You may have always wished to see some of the least visited places on the planet or, having visited Spitsbergen, have a desire to return and explore further in this mesmerising region. Whatever your reason for visiting and your expectations of what you will find there, we can help you make sense of the options and choose the right location, expedition itinerary and vessel.
Sled dog, Greenland
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The majority of Greenland’s tiny population live in the south and west, in the capital Nuuk, and in a smattering of other colourful little settlements along the coast. A summer visit when the communities are basked in sunlight and the sea ice has receded is very different from the darkness and isolation the inhabitants live through each winter. Along the western coast the main focus is Disko Bay, home to ancient villages, abundant wildlife including whales and one of the fastest moving glaciers in the world.
AR C T I C C I R C
ALASKA (USA)
East Greenland The east of Greenland is a geologically fascinating area dominated by mountains and fjords. Colossal tabular icebergs, some up to a kilometre long, command the seas. The sheer size, incredible angular shapes and shifting hues that range from crystal clear to the deepest blues and darkest greys are endlessly beguiling. Scoresby Sund and Kaiser Franz Josef Fjord are two incredibly beautiful areas that the expedition vessels visit, and wildlife such as baleen and toothed whales, eiders, auks and peregrine falcons are all resident.
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Greenland or Kalaallit Nunaat (Land of the People) is a fascinating and beautiful place. An autonomous overseas dependency of Denmark, it is the second largest island in the world and is smothered by an enormous ice-cap, in places up to three kilometres deep. Just 60,000 people live here in remote coastal communities. Many of them still rely on traditional hunting methods for large parts of their diet, and dog teams, sleds and drying skins are common sights. Fjords and mountains dominate this coast, and the tundra bursts into bloom in the summer and early autumn months.
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Northwest Passage Arctic expedition cruises here are full of dramatic scenery and wildlife, but also offer an intriguing insight into the culture, history and lifestyle of the local Inuit. The majority of this region is in the Canadian territory of Nunavut, and many trips start from the tiny capital of Iqaluit, on the east coast of Baffin Island, itself a vast wilderness of steep fjords, jagged mountains and glacial ice. From here the ships break through the ice into the Canadian High Arctic visiting sites like Lancaster Sound where generations of Inuit have hunted over the centuries. Ships also visit King William Island, where John Franklin not only lost his ships Terror and Erebus to the pack ice but also his crew while attempting to navigate the fabled passage in 1845-6.
2 Disko Bay, Greenland Hauntingly beautiful and choked with icebergs, this is a great whale-spotting location.
Inuit culture Discover the history, culture and customs of the inhabitants of this region.
3 A helicopter trip over the North Pole A unique experience. Cotton grass in Ilulissat, Greenland 1 Scoresby Sund, Greenland The longest fjord in the world bursts into vibrant colour as autumn approaches and contrasts spectacularly with the huge icebergs floating in the bays.
4 Northwest Passage, Canadian High Arctic The legendary sea route that eluded Western explorers for many years. 5 Wrangel Island, Russia
A protected nature sanctuary that is a breeding ground for polar bears. See page 18 Polar bears, Wrangel Island
www.audleytravel.com/arctic • 01993 838 652 • Arctic
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Tailoring your trip The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of the types of cruise that are possible and represent just a handful of the many expedition itineraries that are available in the Arctic regions. Please call one of our Arctic specialists to start planning your journey.
Anchorage Alaska (usa)
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Russian Arctic Expedition cruising in the Russian Arctic offers a chance of genuine adventure. Starting in far-flung outposts such as Anadyr, Murmansk or sometimes from Nome in Alaska (just 50 miles away from Russia at its closest point), these trips take you to the islands of Wrangel, and its small neighbour, Herald, the Arctic shores of far eastern Siberia, or to Franz Josef Land. Expedition cruising up here at the ‘top of the world’ will see you become one of a small band of people to venture to these remote corners of the world. Located in the Arctic Ocean in Russia’s far east, Wrangel Island is a protected nature reserve. This is primarily due to the fact that it is a breeding area for polar bears, indeed it is believed to have the highest density of dens in the Arctic and is often described as a polar bear ‘maternity ward’. In the summer the island is also home to thousands of breeding migratory birds including snow geese, snowy owls and Arctic terns. The bleak and icy Siberian shores of the region of Chukotka, and its nearby islands, are a forbidding but fascinating place. Highlights include Whale Bone Alley, on Yttygran Island, which is a half-kilometre long arrangement of whale skulls and bones, along with meat storage pits. It is situated on the coast alongside a wellknown whale migration route, and is believed to be a centuries-old practical and ceremonial site. Right at the other end of the country, the uninhabited Franz Josef Land is a collection of 190 islands in the far northwest of Russia. Visited by the icebreaker on its expedition to the North Pole, these islands and their waters are home to polar bears, seals, walrus and whales.
Depending on which expedition cruise you choose, your boat departure point could be in Norway, Iceland, Greenland, Finland, Russia, Canada or Alaska. We will choose the most appropriate means and method of transport to get you to your port, and we will generally ensure all itineraries have a minimum of one day on the mainland prior to boarding, just in case of any delays, as your boat will not wait for you.
When to go Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun
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Wrangel Island and Chukotka Explore the wild northeastern shores of Siberia and sail into the Arctic Ocean via the Bering Strait en route to Wrangel Island. This trip across the top of the world has been made possible by big thaws in the summer sea ice. It offers ample opportunities to spot polar bears, walrus, a multitude of birds and hopefully whales. Day 1
Arrive in Alaska and spend the night in Anchorage.
Day 2
Take a charter flight across the Bering Sea (and the international date line) to Anadyr in Russia’s Chukotka region.
Day 3
Time to explore Anadyr, the region’s administrative capital, before boarding your expedition vessel.
Day 4
Set sail down the Anadyr Estuary, known for its beluga whale sightings.
Day 5
Visit Yttygran Island to see Whale Bone Alley.
Prices
Day 6
Prices for these cruises vary hugely between destinations. You can find up-to-date guideline prices on our website, alternatively please call our Arctic specialists to discuss your plans.
If sea conditions permit, land at the most northeasterly point of the Eurasian continent, Cape Dezhnev.
Day 7
Observe Arctic seabirds, including puffins and guillemots, on Kolyuchin Island which was once a Russian Arctic research station.
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Expedition cruising within the Arctic Circle and Arctic Ocean is generally only possible in the summer (June to September), when the sea ice has receded sufficiently to allow the expedition vessels to sail. Whilst the sun may shine at times, you must be aware that it may be very cold. Time difference: GMT -1 to -8 hours
Days 8-12 Time on and around Wrangel Island, which is home to many polar bears, as well as musk oxen, reindeer and dramatic Arctic landscapes.
Endemic Wrangel Island collared lemming
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Icebreaker, Franz Josef Land
Nome
Day 13
Explore the north Siberian coast: look out for whales, walrus and seals.
Day 14
Visit the huge and desolate Kolyuchin Inlet, a great place for birdwatching and spotting grey whales.
Day 15
Sail past the Russian Diomede Islands and pass through the area where just over two nautical miles separate Russian soil from American.
Day 16
Sail back to Anadyr, Russia.
Day 17
Disembark your boat and connect with your onward flight.
Suggested itineraries Cambridge Bay canada
Flakkerhuk
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Disko Bay
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Franz Josef Land (Russia)
King William Island
Lancaster Sound
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West Greenland by sailboat
Canada’s Northwest Passage
A unique ‘whale safari’ cruise exploring the iceberg-choked Disko Bay aboard an elegant sailing boat. The cruise will focus on wildlifespotting, in particular the different species of whale that come to the bay.
Take the historic and elusive route from the Pacific to the Atlantic known as the Northwest Passage. Explore these waterways of the Canadian Arctic archipelago, taking in the rich marine biodiversity and beautiful scenery.
Day 1
Arrive in Iceland. Spend the night in Reykjavik.
Day 1
Arrive in Canada and spend the night in Ottawa.
Day 2
Explore Iceland’s capital, and take a trip to the Blue Lagoon to bathe in the hot springs.
Day 2
Day 3
Take a charter flight to the tiny town of Aasiaat on the west coast of Greenland. Set sail into Disko Bay.
Take a charter flight to Kangerlussuaq, inside the Arctic Circle in Greenland. Set sail down Sondre Stromfjord to the Davis Strait, crossing the Arctic Circle twice more in the process.
Day 4
Visit small islands in the mouth of Disko Bay, call in on a settlement with the remains of dwellings of the 11th century Thule culture, and enjoy plenty of wildlife spotting opportunities.
Day 3
Visit the town of Sisimiut and its nearby fjord.
Day 4
Ice permitting, sail into Jacobshavn Icefjord. Here massive tabular icebergs spill out into Disko Bay.
Day 5
Further sailing around the icebergs of Disko Bay in an area rich in wildlife including frequent whale visitors.
Day 6
Sail to Flakkerhuk on the east of Disko Island, take a walk on the tundra and observe the birdlife.
Day 7
Set out in the Zodiacs to see a large kittiwake colony.
Day 8
Sail through Ata Sund to see glaciers and icecaps.
Day 9
Visit Jakobshavn Glacier which calves off into enormous icebergs. Take a walk for a breathtaking view over the Jakobshavn Icefjord. Visit the town of Illulissat.
Day 10
Arrive back in Aasiaat and take the charter flight back to Reykjavik to connect with your onward flight.
Days 5-6 Cross Baffin Bay towards Canada, skirting the sea ice, spotting the abundant wildlife. Day 7
Explore the dramatic, steep fjords of northeastern Baffin Island.
Day 8
Learn about the culture of the local Inuit in the small town of Pond Inlet.
Day 9
Sail on to Lancaster Sound and Devon Island.
Day 10
Arrive at Beechey Island where Roald Amundsen stopped off on the first successful transit of the Northwest Passage by boat.
Day 11
A day exploring archaeological sites and learning about the region’s history, before setting sail for King William Island.
Day 12
Sail into Victoria Strait, famous as the ice-bound site of the last months of HMS Terror and Erebus on the ill-fated John Franklin Arctic expedition in 1845-6.
Day 13
Visit the Inuit community of Cambridge Bay on Victoria Island, before flying to Edmonton, where you will stay overnight.
Day 14
Head to the airport for your onward flight.
North Pole by icebreaker Let a nuclear-powered icebreaker take the strain on the journey to the ultimate Arctic destination. Pushing through the pack ice to the North Pole via Franz Josef Land, this is an expedition that also includes a trip in a hot air balloon, outings in a helicopter and a barbecue on the ice at the pole. A unique adventure. Day 1
Arrive in Finland and stay overnight in Helsinki.
Day 2
Take a charter flight to Murmansk in Russia, here you will board the 50 Years of Victory expedition icebreaker and begin the journey to the North Pole.
Days 3-7
Crushing northwards through the pack ice. Take a helicopter trip over the Arctic Ocean from your ship.
Day 8
Today should be the day of arrival at the North Pole. How you celebrate your time at the top of the world is up to you!
Day 9
Start the journey back to Russia. Keep your eyes peeled for polar bears.
Days 10-11 Visit Franz Josef Land, a group of 191 islands belonging to Russia and home to walrus and polar bears. Explore by foot, by Zodiac and by helicopter. Day 12
The final leg of the journey south to Russia.
Day 13
Arrive in Murmansk and board your charter flight to Helsinki for the final night of the trip.
Day 14
Head to the airport for your onward flight.
Midnight sun, Disko Bay
www.audleytravel.com/arctic • 01993 838 652 • Arctic
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Antarctica O
wned by no one and visited by few, Antarctica is the world’s coldest, highest, windiest and wildest continent. Its awe-inspiring sights are amongst the most beautiful and captivating in the world; it is a place where you can see clear skies, blue seas, comical penguins, mighty glaciers, dazzling snow and radiant sunshine. Yet it is also a place of perfect desolation, which is possibly its greatest appeal. It is the ultimate wilderness, the final travel frontier. So what lies in store for the visitor? In the long days of the austral summer, icebergs drift slowly by as whales feed on huge shoals of krill, seals bask on icy shelves, penguins chatter in vast communities, and man’s presence is seen only rarely – in scientific research stations, in rusting whaling stations, in the abandoned shelters of polar explorers and the occasional expedition vessel steering a careful course between the icebergs. Putting the time and money into an expedition cruise here is a serious commitment, but it is a truly unforgettable and enriching experience which is, in every sense, a trip of a lifetime.
Audley in Antarctica
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Penguins Entertaining and endearing, there are seven species that can be considered ‘Antarctic penguins’: Adélies, chinstraps, emperors, gentoos, macaronis, kings and rockhoppers.
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We feel that it is our first-hand knowledge of the cruise vessels and the destinations, along with our independent and honest advice, and above all, infectious enthusiasm for all things polar that makes our team one of the best in the business.
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Depending on things such as your personal interests, how many days you can stomach at sea, which part of the continent you wish to visit and your overall expectations of the destination, we will offer practical advice and create your trip for you. We pride ourselves on our honest approach and this may mean advising you to book one of the cheapest cabins on your boat, as they are generally lower down and are therefore more stable, letting you know which cruises will allow you to see king penguins, ensuring you know that not all cruises actually cross the Antarctic Circle, or being frank with you that crossing the Drake Passage in a force nine gale can be hideous, but the sense of achievement on arrival is immense. We also want you to be able to disembark your boat daily to experience the continent properly, which is why we only work with the smaller vessels.
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A journey to Antarctica is about as remote as travel gets on this planet. It is neither quick nor cheap to get there, so it is essential that every detail of your itinerary is well organised and personally tailored to you. There are several destination options, a number of expedition vessels and a host of small details that can make the difference between a costly adventure and the trip of a lifetime. We have researched all the options in depth to ensure we get our recommendations right for you.
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Historical sites From Scott’s hut to the vestiges of the whaling industry, the marks left by humans on Antarctica can be both fascinating and horrifying.
Whale watching The Southern Ocean is a rich feeding ground for many whale species including blue, humpback, minke, and orca.
Glaciers and icebergs Constantly changing and glittering in the light, the endless colours and mysterious shapes of the Antarctic landscape are simply mesmerising. Adventure For the bold and brave, why not camp on the ice, try snow-shoeing or cross-country skiing, or go kayaking on the Polar waters?
Humpback whale, Southern Ocean
www.audleytravel.com/antarctica • 01993 838 615 • Antarctica
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Antarctic Peninsula, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands
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he Drake Passage marks the place where the southern Pacific and Atlantic oceans converge. Emerging from these tempestuous waters you enter the pristine world of the Antarctic Peninsula, the gentle face of Antarctica. Here glaciers calve and icebergs drift languidly by, the weather can be atmospherically stormy or clear and sunny, sunsets and sunrises can turn the snowy hills a delicate shade of pink, and peace and quiet reign supreme. Equally stunning are the huge colonies of king penguins, nesting wandering albatrosses and abandoned whaling stations of South Georgia and the Falkland Islands which, whilst not technically polar, are included on many itineraries.
Audley in the Antarctic Peninsula The Antarctic Peninsula is the destination for most Antarctic cruises and is where the majority of visitors go. This is mainly because it is only about 1,000 kilometres from the tip of South America, making it the shortest and therefore the most cost effective route. The options for cruises in this area are manifold for both destination and duration. There are voyages that
push south to the latitude of the Antarctic Circle, some that remain above it by sailing around the peninsula and South Shetland Islands, some that venture round to the lesser-visited east of the peninsula, and some that take you via South Georgia and the Falkland Islands. Many of the cruises offer ‘adventure’ options such as kayaking, ice camping, snowshoeing and even mountaineering; we can talk you through all of these. Zodiac excursion, Antarctic Peninsula
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South Shetland Islands
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SOUTH GEORGIA (UK)
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Sea Lion Island
Amongst the highlights of the peninsula is Port Lockroy, the British Antarctic Survey base situated in a natural harbour reached through the spectacular cliffs of the Neumayer Channel. With its own post office and museum, this is one of the most visited parts of the peninsula. At Hope Bay you will find the Argentinean Esperanza Base, which is a year-round settlement, with a mayor, post office and school. It is also where the Antarctic continent’s first baby was born in 1978. One of the most iconic sights in Antarctica is the Lemaire Channel. Running between the Antarctic Peninsula and Booth Island, its convoluted passage is barely navigable, with sheer cliffs on each side. To the north, at Paradise Harbour, petrels, cormorants, seals, penguins and sometimes whales make their home in another of Antarctica’s most dramatic and stunning landscapes.
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A stunning narrow channel between the peninsula and Booth Island, overlooked by towering cliffs that creak under the weight of glaciers.
Beautifully rugged, this island wildlife sanctuary is set in the midst of the stormy Southern Ocean. See page 24
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Buy your souvenirs in this renovated British Antarctic Survey research station. 3 Deception Island Bathe in waters warmed by volcanic springs.
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The Antarctic Peninsula itself reaches out like a welcoming hand, a spectacular range of jagged mountain peaks draped in glaciers that calve into the sea. Part of the peninsula is sub-Antarctic: the true Antarctic begins at the Antarctic Circle (currently 66° 33’ S parallel of latitude), where for one day or more each year the sun doesn’t rise or set.
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The Antarctic Peninsula
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Deception Island Further south, Deception Island is one of Antarctica’s two most active volcanoes, and is blown out into a perfect horseshoeshaped harbour. You can stroll to the caldera and, tide dependent, bathe in Pendulum Cove if you can find the pools of water warmed by geothermal heat. Also here on the beach are the rusting hulks of whale oil tanks, a sad relic of the industrial whaling days.
Bird Island
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Livingston Island was a hub of commercial sealing and whaling in the 19 th century, but today gentoo penguins play amongst the remnants of abandoned whaling stations while elephant and fur seals bask on the beach. Nearby, Elephant Island is where Shackleton’s crew hunkered down to survive an Antarctic winter in 1916, and today it is home to abundant chinstrap penguins as well as seals.
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The South Shetland Islands run parallel to the Antarctic Peninsula, stretching over 450 kilometres of krill-rich ocean, a happy feeding-ground for whales, penguins and seals. King George Island is the most populated, with permanent settlements of eight nations, as well as summer stations manned by many other countries, all staking their rival claims to a cake-slice share of Antarctic territory.
Carcass Island West Point Island
Albatross, Falkland Islands 4 Falkland Islands
A far flung British territory, teeming with wildlife. See page 25
Camping on the ice Spend a night under canvas for a chilly but unique polar experience. Kayaking Paddle gently through the frozen seascape in absolute silence.
Drake Passage The convergence of two great oceans was never going to mean calm seas, and the Drake Passage has a deserved reputation as a fearsome stretch of water; it is said that the albatross crossing the skies above it are the reincarnated souls of thousands of sailors who have perished in its seas. But that was in days gone by; today, modern vessels traverse the waters with relative ease. We have a love-hate relationship with the Drake; despite the discomfort of a rough crossing, it reminds you just how remote you are and just how much hardship the original explorers endured. As for how best to get
through it, there are various suggestions: stay up and keep your eyes on the horizon, stay in your cabin and sleep, eat a lot, eat nothing, eat ginger, take pills, wear wrist bands. And you never know, you might be lucky – apparently about 5% of crossings are like a mill pond.
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Curious king penguin, South Georgia
South Georgia Rising ruggedly out of the water, majestic South Georgia is made up of two mountain ranges stretching 170 kilometres in length, yet in places as little as two kilometres wide. Even in midsummer most of the island is covered with glaciers, ice-caps and snowfields. Once a scene of slaughter with more than a million fur seals killed for their skins and hundreds of thousands of whales processed here for their blubber, these days the island has recovered and South Georgia is arguably one of the world’s most magical and prolific wildlife hotspots. It is now home to more than three million fur seals and a host of birds: five million macaroni penguins strut along its shores, king penguins teeter over the shingle beaches of St Andrews Bay and four species of albatross breed here. The rusting remnants of the whaling stations at Grytviken, Stromness and Fortuna, which were at the centre of the Southern Ocean whaling industry from 1904 to the mid 1960s, have now been taken over by wildlife, and resting in Grytviken’s cemetery are Sir Ernest Shackleton and Frank Wild. South Georgia can be visited as part of an Antarctic Peninsula cruise that also takes in the Falkland Islands, but there are also dedicated South Georgia-only cruises that allow you to truly immerse yourself in this unique place.
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Sir Ernest Shackleton Sir Ernest Shackleton’s involvement in Antarctic exploration stretched across two decades, during which time he became a national hero. He first experienced Antarctica with Captain Scott on the Discovery expedition of 1901-03 but illness forced him to return home early. He then planned his own expedition on board Nimrod in 1907. Both expeditions produced records for reaching the furthest south, but it was the Imperial Trans-Antarctic expedition (1914–17) for which he is most famous. Although the expedition failed to achieve its goal – Shackleton’s vessel Endurance was trapped and eventually crushed in the thick pack ice of the Weddell Sea – what followed was an astounding story of survival as Shackleton led his men across the ice and through rough seas to tiny Elephant Island with just the lifeboats as transport. Once there Shackleton left Frank Wild in charge and set off with four others on a 12 day sailing across open water to South Georgia. With little in terms of navigational aids they miraculously landed on the island and then completed the first ever crossing on foot to find help at the whaling
Sir Ernest Shackleton in 1916
station at Stromness. All members of the expedition returned home and well to a world being torn apart by World War I. Shackleton’s leadership gained him the love of his men and the respect of a nation. Today everyone travelling to South Georgia will stop in the cemetery at Grytviken, and can raise a glass to a man who is known simply as ‘the Boss’.
Chinstrap penguin, Antarctica
Penguins Graceful, comical, curious and sociable, penguins are irresistibly endearing. Awkward on land, they are happiest in water and it is perhaps understandable that the early explorers classified them as fish. Living in large single-species rookeries of up to 200,000 at a time, there are several species of penguin that can be considered ‘Antarctic penguins’, of which only four breed in Antarctica: Adélie, emperor, chinstrap and gentoo (the others are king, rockhopper, royal and macaroni, which are found on sub-Antarctic islands). A visit to a penguin colony is a fascinating experience as their range of personal skills is amazing; apart from their raucous chatter they also communicate with each other by bobbing their heads, waving flippers, preening and grooming.
Gentoo penguin, Falkland Islands
King penguins, Falkland Islands
Adélie penguins, Paulet Island
Eastern Antarctic Peninsula
Stanley, East Falkland
Falkland Islands Most well known in recent years for the 1982 conflict and ongoing tensions between Britain and Argentina, the islands themselves are beautiful in a wild and windswept way, and are teeming with incredible wildlife.
The eastern side of the Antarctic Peninsula is less visited than the west, but certain cruises do venture this way, and the rewards are worth it. Paulet Island, at the top of the peninsula, is home to a rookery of over 100,000 pairs of Adélie penguins. With their unique white-rimmed eyes they are considered one of the most stylish of penguins, and this rookery throbs with their rowdy chatter as they court a mate, build their pebble nests, incubate and then rear their young. Further south into the Weddell Sea, you cruise past towering tabular icebergs and some trips have the option of visiting Snow Hill Island. Here, if weather conditions allow, a helicopter can take you to a large emperor penguin colony for one of the most wonderful wildlife experiences in the whole continent.
The two main islands are East and West Falkland, which make up the vast majority of land. The tranquil capital of Stanley is on East Falkland where a colourful assortment of houses are home to the bulk of the islands’ population. The Falkland Islands Museum has informative displays on the infamous conflict, as well as natural history specimens and historical everyday artefacts. Penguins are one of the biggest draws of the Falklands, and the punk-like rockhoppers, one of the most endearing of the species, can be seen on many of the islands.
Antarctic adventure If you’re keen to have a more personal Antarctic experience and not averse to a spot of adventure then there are a number of additional polar experiences to choose from. Camping on the ice for a night, kayaking silently in the icy waters with just a whale or two for company, cross-country skiing across pristine hills and valleys, or mountaineering are just some of the options. The explorers of the Heroic Age didn’t have a warm boat and hot toddy to return to, so no excuses. Not all boats offer all activities, but we can advise you on what is available, and will pre-book all activities that you want to include. (Previous experience is required for some activities, such as kayaking.)
Tabular iceberg, Weddel Sea
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Tailoring your trip South Shetland Islands
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The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of the types of cruise that are possible. Not all cruises in and around the Antarctic Peninsula are shown here, and the itineraries can change each year. Please call one of our Antarctica specialists to start planning your itinerary.
Antarctic Peninsula
Practicalities South Georgia
Cruises to the Antarctic Peninsula all originate in South America, usually Ushuaia in Argentina (or Punta Arenas in Chile for the ‘fly-cruises’). Flights to South America are operated by a number of airlines, including direct flights to Buenos Aires. You will then need to take an internal flight down to Ushuaia. We recommend all itineraries have a minimum of two days on the mainland prior to boarding, just in case of any delays, as your boat will not wait for you.
When to go Elephant seal, King George Island
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Classic Antarctic Peninsula This itinerary is the most popular trip operated by the Antarctic expedition boats. Short and simple, it takes you to the closest and most easily accessible part of the Antarctic continent. Here you can expect to see colonies of gentoo and Adélie penguins, spectacular glaciers and icebergs, and hopefully whales in the icy seas. Day 1
Arrive in Buenos Aires. Have the afternoon to explore Argentina’s diverse capital.
Day 2
Fly to the world’s most southerly city of Ushuaia.
Day 3
Free time in the morning to explore the city before you board the ship and set sail along the Beagle Channel.
Day 4
Crossing the Drake Passage.
Day 5
Come to the end of the Drake Passage and start to spot the first icebergs as you approach the South Shetland Islands and the Antarctic Peninsula.
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33 The best time to travel. 3 A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of. 5 Travel is not recommended.
Travel to the Antarctic Peninsula is possible in the austral summer, between November and March. At this time the average temperature is 0C (32F), but whilst the wind-chill factor can lower this markedly, it can also sometimes be surprisingly warm and sunny. The main thing to expect is the unexpected.
Fly-cruises Pioneered by the company Antarctica XXI, the ‘fly-cruise’ options allow you to board a plane in the southerly Chilean town of Punta Arenas and disembark less than two hours later on the South Shetland island of King George, neatly side-stepping the two-day crossing of the infamous Drake Passage. You then board your expedition vessel for your voyage around the Antarctic Peninsula with the same excursions as the other cruises. Several companies now offer this option, and the flight can be done just one-way if you wish. The downsides are the cost and the fact that the flights are weather-dependent. No such restrictions apply to the boats – they will set sail from Ushuaia whatever the weather.
Time difference: GMT -3 hours
Prices Prices for these cruises vary mainly depending on the cabin type. You can find up-to-date guideline prices on our website, alternatively please call our Antarctica specialists to discuss your plans.
Day 11
Start the crossing back over the Drake Passage.
Day 12
At sea, crossing the Drake Passage.
Day 13
Early morning arrival back in Ushuaia and transfer to the airport for a flight to Buenos Aires.
Day 14
Head to the airport for your onward flight.
Stay longer Spend some time relaxing in Argentina after your cruise by staying at an estancia (farmhouse) in the countryside around Buenos Aires, or by flying up to the tropical Iguazú Falls (please see our South America brochure for more details). Or, a longer version of this trip will take you across the Antarctic Circle.
Zodiac in Antarctic waters
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Days 6-10 Shore landings and excursions on the Antarctic Peninsula and nearby islands such as Petermann, Livingston and Deception. There will generally be two excursions per day.
Suggested itineraries South Georgia
King George Island
Antarctic Peninsula, South Georgia & the Falkland Islands A long cruise that takes you to the Antarctic Peninsula as well as out into the South Atlantic to visit South Georgia and the Falkland Islands which are both teeming with wildlife and history. Day 1
Arrive in Buenos Aires. Have the afternoon to explore Argentina’s diverse capital.
Day 2
Fly to Ushuaia.
Day 3
Free time in the morning to explore the city before you board the ship and set sail along the Beagle Channel.
Day 4
A day at sea on your way to the Falkland Islands.
Day 5
Visit one or two of the islands.
Day 6
Explore Stanley, the capital of the Falkland Islands.
Day 7
Sail along the Antarctic convergence on the way to South Georgia.
Day 8
Spend time on deck spotting whales, penguins and albatross.
Days 9-12 Explore South Georgia – visit old whaling stations, million-strong colonies of king penguins and breeding sites for wandering albatross, as well as the opportunity to pay your respects at Shackleton’s grave. Day 13
Travel to Elephant Island.
Day 14
A day at sea on the way to the Antarctic Peninsula and South Shetland Islands.
Days 15-18 Shore landings and excursions on the Antarctic Peninsula and nearby islands. There will generally be two excursions per day. Day 19
Start the journey across the Drake Passage to Ushuaia.
Day 20
Crossing the Drake Passage.
Day 21
Arrive in Ushuaia. Fly to Buenos Aires.
Day 22
Head to the airport for your onward flight.
Antarctic Peninsula
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Antarctic Peninsula Fly & Cruise
East Antarctic Peninsula & the Weddell Sea
If you are worried about your sea legs or your time is in short supply, then why not fly to Antarctica? You will still have the opportunity to see all the amazing sights of the Antarctic Peninsula but will avoid the time-consuming and sometimes arduous crossing of the Drake Passage.
The unique aspect of this itinerary is the possibility of seeing the emperor penguin colony on Snow Hill Island. By heading into the huge and icy Weddell Sea on the eastern side of the peninsula you can board a helicopter from your cruise vessel to fly to within a 45-minute walk of the colony.
Day 1
Arrival in Santiago, Chile, and transfer to the old port town of Valparaiso.
Day 1
Arrive in Buenos Aires, the rest of your day is at leisure to explore this diverse capital city.
Day 2
A day exploring historic Valparaiso.
Day 2
Day 3
Fly south to the city of Punta Arenas.
Fly to the world’s most southerly city of Ushuaia.
Day 4
Fly across the Drake Passage to King George Island, board your expedition ship and set sail around the South Shetland Islands and Antarctic Peninsula.
Day 3
Free time in the morning to explore the city before you board the ship and set sail along the Beagle Channel.
Day 4
Crossing the Drake Passage.
Days 5-8 Shore landings and excursions, generally two per day. These may include Port Lockroy and Paradise Harbour.
Day 5
Finish your crossing of the Drake Passage and arrive in the calmer waters of the Antarctic Peninsula and start your excursions.
Day 9
Fly back across the Drake Passage to Punta Arenas and then fly on to Santiago. Transfer to a winery in the nearby Colchagua Valley for a relaxing final few days.
Day 6
The ship will take you to the eastern side of the Peninsula and from this point on, much of your journey will depend on the sea ice and weather conditions.
Day 10
At leisure in the heart of Chile’s wine producing region.
Day 11
Transfer to Santiago to board your onward flight.
Days 7-8 Enjoy time with the largest penguins in the world at the emperor colony on Snow Hill Island.
Stay longer Before flying back to Santiago head into Torres del Paine National Park to see some wonderful scenery and wildlife (please see our South America brochure for more details).
Days 9-10 Shore excursions on the Antarctica mainland, nearby islands such as Paulet and Seymour, and the South Shetland Islands. Day 11
Start the journey back across the Drake Passage to mainland South America.
Day 12
Crossing the Drake Passage.
Day 13
Early morning arrival back in Ushuaia and transfer to the airport for a flight to Buenos Aires.
Day 14
Head to the airport for your onward flight.
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East Antarctica A
vast, bleak, inhospitable and beautiful land, East Antarctica, or the ‘far side’ as it is sometimes known, was the gateway to the South Pole for the pioneering explorers of yesteryear. Separated from the rest of the continent by the Transantarctic Mountain Range, it is larger and colder than the west, and it is the most isolated region on the planet. This is the Antarctica that claimed the lives of Scott and his team, and his hut, preserved as it was when he left for the South Pole in 1911, is there to visit today. It is this hut and those of the other explorers that lure the few visitors who make it here, but the ubiquitous penguins and magnificent landscapes are equally rewarding.
Audley in East Antarctica East Antarctica is rougher and windier than the Antarctic Peninsula. It also takes nearly three times as long to sail here, and consequently is a lot more expensive to visit. However, this is the place to go if you want to stand in the footsteps of the great explorers, as it is here that the Heroic Age of Antarctic exploration comes alive. Experiencing the bitter cold, rough seas and sublime vistas, brings you closer to the agonies and ecstasies of these pioneers. Ships generally depart from New Zealand or Tasmania via the sub-Antarctic islands. Owing to 28
the distances involved, these trips are usually between three and four weeks in length. Very few expedition cruise companies have permits to visit the key sites, so spaces can book up a long way in advance. Another example of this is the ‘semi-circumnavigation’ which does not run every year, but is an epic journey from Australasia to South America round the Ross, Bellinghausen and Amundsen seas and Antarctic Peninsula. Due to the weather conditions an open mind is always required. Landings at any given destination are never a certainty and will always be the captain’s decision. Standing inside an iceberg, Ross Sea
Ross Sea
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Perhaps most famous of all the human stories of the Antarctic is that of Robert Falcon Scott, and the hut at Cape Evans from his Terra Nova expedition is today beautifully preserved by the nearby New Zealand Scott Base. It was from here that Scott and his team set off for their ill-fated trip to the South Pole. Standing in this draughty hut, gazing at over 8,000 artefacts from their adventure and knowing their ultimate fate is a spine-tingling reminder of the hopes these men bore and the risks they were willing to take. The irony is that the conditions that took Captain Scott and his men are now responsible for preserving his hut and its contents as if the men were still there. Bottles of Heinz tomato ketchup and Lyle’s golden syrup sit on the shelves while scattered bedding and books make it feel as if the occupants have just gone out to feed the ponies before you arrived. The bunk beds still have their original fur skin bedding, and the ceiling and walls are blackened by the smoke from the blubber burning stove. There can be few places as evocative of human struggle against the elements as this, and it is fair to say that visiting it is nothing short of an honour and a privilege.
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For a brief window of time, barely two months each year, the ice of the Ross Sea melts enough to allow its islands and coast to be explored by a lucky few. This is the historic starting point for expeditions to the South Pole, where trailblazing explorers built their simple, windswept bases. It is these huts that provide the main focus for cruises to the Ross Sea, and weather permitting, it is possible to visit three of these relics of the Heroic Age of exploration. Carsten Borchgrevnik’s trip to Antarctica in 1899 was the first to spend the winter there and his expedition huts at Cape Adare, the first human structures on the continent, remain largely untouched. Shackleton’s hut at Cape Royds was his base for the 1907-1909 Nimrod expedition. Although the expedition failed to make it to the South Pole, Shackleton and his team made the first ascent of Mount Erebus and were the first to reach the magnetic pole. His hut containing books, clothes and food (and a secret whisky stash that was only recently found) has been perfectly preserved by the cold. Nearby a rookery of Adélie penguins keep careful watch.
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Cape Bird
1 Scott’s hut, Cape Evans Preserved intact by the extreme cold, this hut is a poignant time-capsule from the Heroic Age of exploration.
3 Mawson’s huts, Cape Denison From 1911 to 1914 this was Sir Douglas Mawson’s base as he led a geologic and exploratory expedition to chart much of the eastern part of Antarctica. See page 30 Scott Base, Cape Evans
Icebergs on the Ross Sea
2 McMurdo Station & Scott Base, Cape Evans These US and New Zealandrun bases offer a fascinating insight into modern-day Antarctic research.
Adélie penguins, Dumont d’Urville 4 Dumont d’Urville, Commonwealth Bay This French scientific base welcomes visitors and is located close to impressive colonies of Adélie and emperor penguins. See page 30 5 Macquarie Island Lying between Australasia and the Antarctic Circle, Macquarie is home to some spectacular wildlife including large penguin and albatross colonies. See page 30 Scott’s hut, Cape Evans
www.audleytravel.com/antarctica • 01993 838 615 • Antarctica
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Tailoring your trip The itineraries shown are designed to give you a flavour of the type of cruises that are possible. In this part of Antarctica particularly, the itineraries are subject to change because of weather conditions, and specific day-to-day itineraries are rarely published in advance by the boat operators. The trips detailed, however, are based on typical and previous itineraries. Please call one of our Antarctica specialists to start planning your journey.
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Practicalities Cruises to East Antarctica originate and finish in Tasmania or New Zealand, except the ‘semicircumnavigation’ which will start or end in Ushuaia, Argentina. We recommend all itineraries have a minimum of two days in Tasmania or New Zealand prior to boarding, just in case of any travel delays, as boats will not wait for delayed passengers. Please note that the start and end port of these expeditions can vary depending on the date of your chosen cruise, so we will make air and land arrangements accordingly.
Elephant seals, Macquarie Island
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33 The best time to travel. 5 Travel is not recommended.
Mawson’s huts, Cape Denison
Commonwealth Bay
Sub-Antarctic Islands
Round the headland from the Ross Sea, and away from the 30 metre high creaking ice cliffs of the Ross Ice Shelf, lies Commonwealth Bay. This sweeping bay was discovered by Sir Douglas Mawson’s 1912 Australasian Antarctica expedition, and his huts at Cape Denison are a key destination for expeditions to this area. Other highlights include the French base at Dumont d’Urville (named after the Frenchman believed to be the first human to set foot on the Antarctic continent in 1840), the nearby Adélie and emperor penguin colonies, and Port Martin where hundreds of grounded icebergs form a spectacular backdrop to the sea.
Stretching out across the Southern Ocean from New Zealand are the sub-Antarctic islands of Snares, Auckland, Campbell and Macquarie. Teeming with incredible wildlife, these islands make a wonderful first and last port of call for anyone on the long trek to or from East Antarctica. The wildlife of the tiny island of Macquarie is particularly impressive with millions of king, rockhopper, gentoo and endemic royal penguins breeding here. A particularly arresting site is the king penguin rookery at Lusitania Bay, this is because today’s penguins live around the rusting condensers of an old penguin oil processing site. Macquarie is also home to colonies of elephant seals and fur seals, as well as four species of nesting albatross, making the concentration of wildlife in and around this small island quite astounding.
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Due to the harsh weather in East Antarctica there is a smaller window for travel here than in the Antarctic Peninsula, and cruises usually only operate between November and February. Known as the ‘home of the blizzard’, conditions can be inclement even in the austral summer (November to February) so expect an authentic polar experience if you choose to travel here. Time difference: GMT +11 hours
Prices Prices for these cruises vary mainly on the cabin type you choose. You can find up-to-date guideline prices on our website, alternatively please call our Antarctica specialists to discuss your plans.
Suggested itineraries ANTARCTICA
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Scott & Shackleton’s Antarctica Follow the direction of the great explorers to the Ross Sea, stopping at some of the sub-Antarctic islands on the way. Weather permitting, you will visit five of their huts, including those of Captain Robert Falcon Scott and Sir Ernest Shackleton. Day 1
Arrive in Invercargill, the most southerly city in New Zealand.
Day 1
Arrive in Invercargill, New Zealand. Explore the port of Bluff before boarding your ship. The first stop is the Snares Islands which are home to countless sea birds including Buller’s albatross.
Day 3
Days 13-22 Explorations in this region are always determined by weather conditions, but your expedition will aim to visit some or all of the following: Scott and Shackleton’s huts near Cape Evans, McMurdo Station and Scott Base, Cape Adare, and the Ross Ice shelf. Days 23-26 Sailing back towards New Zealand. Days 27-28 Spend time exploring Campbell Island and see the hardy ‘megaherbs’ that grow here. Day 29
At sea.
Day 30
Arrive back in Bluff, New Zealand, and continue your onward journey.
Bluff NEW ZEALAND
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This epic journey takes you to both the Antarctic Peninsula and the Ross Sea in East Antarctica, plus many of the sub-Antarctic islands such as Macquarie. However, please note that this spectacular trip does not operate every year and often books up a long time in advance.
Land at the Snares Islands where birds nest in their thousands.
Days 9-12 Sailing to the Ross Sea.
AUSTRALIA
Calling in at some of the least visited parts of Antarctica this is a very special journey. You will explore areas that are historically claimed by France and Australia, such as the Dumont d’Urville research base and its colonies of Adélie and emperor penguins, but the highlight is visiting Sir Douglas Mawson’s huts at Cape Denison.
Day 3
Days 7-8 Visit Macquarie Island where four different species of penguin can be found.
Macquarie Island
Ultimate Antarctica
Visit Bluff and its maritime museum before boarding your ship.
At sea.
le
Mawson’s Antarctica
Day 2
Day 6
Auckland Islands Snares Islands Bluff
Christchurch NEW ZEALAND
Day 2
Days 4-5 Explore the beautiful Auckland Islands.
irc
Macquarie Island Campbell Island
Auckland Islands Snares Islands
cC
Macquarie Island Campbell Island
ANTARCTICA Ross Ice Shelf Cape Evans Ross Cape Adare Sea
Day 1
Arrive in Buenos Aires, Argentina.
Day 2
Fly to Ushuaia.
Day 3
Explore the city before boarding your ship.
Day 4
Crossing the Drake Passage.
Day 5
Come to the end of the Drake Passage, and approach the South Shetland Islands and the Antarctic Peninsula.
Days 4-5 Visit the Auckland Islands today, a geographically stunning home to parakeets and sea lions. Day 6
At sea.
Days 7-8 Land at Macquarie Island to visit ‘penguin city’ and meet the park rangers. Days 9-11 Sailing to Commonwealth Bay. Days 12-21 Based in Commonwealth Bay, off Antarctica’s Adélie Coast, you will explore the place that Mawson named ‘the home of the blizzard’ and visit his huts at Cape Denison. Weather permitting you will also land at Dumont d’Urville and Port Martin and have the chance to obseve the area’s wildlife. Days 22-25 At sea sailing to Campbell Island. Days 26-27 Two days of landings at Campbell Island, home of the southern royal albatross.
Days 6-7 Shore excursions on the Antarctic Peninsula and nearby islands. Day 8
Days 9-10 Sailing through the Bellingshausen Sea, possibly through pack ice. Day 11
Arrive in the port of Lyttelton and transfer to Christchurch, New Zealand, for your onward journey.
Sail towards the Amundsen Sea.
Days 12-17 Exploring the Amundsen Sea, along the outer edges of the pack ice. Day 18
Approach the Ross Ice Shelf, which reaches over 30 metres high in places.
Day 19
Sailing west along the front of the Ross Ice Shelf.
Days 20-26 Sail into the Ross Sea and hopefully visit several explorer huts. Day 27
Days 28-29 At sea. Day 30
Sail south, cross the Antarctic Circle.
Continue sailing west towards Cape Adare. This is the location of Borchgrevink’s hut.
Days 28-31 Leave the Ross Sea and sail up through the Southern Ocean. Day 32
The final stop on Macquarie Island.
Days 33-34 At sea. Day 35
Arrive in Bluff, New Zealand. Head to the airport for your onward flight.
www.audleytravel.com/antarctica • 01993 838 615 • Antarctica
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Expedition vessels While you are exploring the polar regions your ship is your home and although some may look very similar they all offer varying degrees of comfort and each has a distinctive style that will suit some people and not others. The details below are for some of our favourite ships and should help you to narrow down the choice. Most of these boats operate in both the Arctic and Antarctic (and some in between), but please bear in mind that the operators change and amend schedules each season.
Ships carrying more than 200 passengers are severely limited in landing sites and for this reason none of our recommended ships exceed this number. In fact, many are significantly smaller. No matter their size or style all of these vessels operate true expeditions, meaning that they will get you into Zodiacs and on to shore at every available opportunity (usually twice a day) and many offer more adventurous options such as kayaking or camping, all things that larger vessels simply cannot do.
All the boats we work with have a few things in common. They are either purpose built or specially adapted for the icy conditions and offer the highest standards of safety. In addition to this those that operate in Antarctica are all affiliated with IAATO (International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators). A prerequisite of this is that they run on specially developed fuel and operate to strict guidelines limiting their environmental impact, this treaty also controls the number of people at each landing site and where the ships can go depending on their size.
On board you will find highly experienced and qualified expedition guides and crew, including a doctor, many of whom have over 100 trips to the polar regions behind them, often as part of scientific research teams. Our experience is that all guide teams are excellent, but approaches are different across the fleet and this will be a contributing factor in your choice of boats. All ships recommended have cabins with windows or portholes and private facilities, observation lounges, restaurants large enough to seat everyone at the same time and most have an
open bridge policy, meaning you can read the charts and chat to the captain. Beyond that however, standards of accommodation, deck space and restaurants can differ greatly. The vessel’s history and expedition’s objectives will also affect your choice. The range here is huge, from the distinctly Soviet style to the outright luxurious. Ratings Putting a rating to an expedition vessel is not always easy as the service levels on board may be amazing but the overall rating could be limited by the physical layout of the boat itself. To give you an idea of comfort levels on board each ship we have included guidelines below from simple to medium, first class and deluxe, however it does not necessarily follow that a deluxe ship is more expensive than a medium ship as many other factors, such as size, come into play, it is always best to speak to our specialists who know these boats first-hand.
M/S Expedition The M/S Expedition began life as a car ferry in Denmark which gives you some idea of the space available to the maximum 134 passengers. This translates to ample sized cabins, a library, bar, restaurant, deck with a full 360 degree view, an industry leading mud room (a particular bonus for any expedition) and enough Zodiacs for all passengers to disembark together. The expedition leaders will plan for two landings a day when you are close to shore. For the adventurous spirits there are kayaks on board and on some trips you may be able to camp on the ice, then you can make use of the on board sauna to warm up again. All cabins are comfortable and, although the entry level options have portholes others have big picture windows. The atmosphere on board is relaxed and while safety is obviously paramount a lot of fun is also had.
Ship details Built / Refurbished: Number of passengers: Number of staff & crew: Length: Width: Speed: Number of passenger decks: Number of cabins: Ice class: Rating:
M/S Expedition
1972 / 2009 134 69 345 foot 62 foot 14 knots 5 60 1B Medium Mud room, M/S Expedition
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Cabin, M/S Expedition
Hebridean Sky & Island Sky These sister ships are two of the most comfortable and safest vessels in polar waters where the staff undergo extensive training to cover any eventuality. With state of the art stabilisers and incredible fuel efficiency there is much more to them than the comfortable cabins, great service and brilliant expedition staff. All suites are spacious and some have balconies, while public areas include an observation lounge, sun deck and outside cafe, the bridge, library, club and lounge meaning there is more than enough space for the passengers on board. Despite all this luxury, the focus is still very much on exploring the environment you are in. There are enough Zodiacs to get everyone off the ship at the same time and kayaking and camping are on offer for the more adventurous. You will also have the chance to take part in some citizen science while on board.
Hebridean Sky
Ship details: Hebridean Sky
Cabin, Hebridean Sky
Outside dining, Hebridean Sky
Built / Refurbished: Number of passengers: Number of staff & crew: Length: Width: Speed: Number of passenger decks: Number of cabins: Ice class: Rating:
1992 / 2016 118 70 297 foot 50 foot 14.5 knots 5 59 1C First class
Silver Explorer The all-suite Silver Explorer is one of the most luxurious boats in polar waters. The service on board is impeccable and the fully inclusive approach means that you can really relax and enjoy it, and that includes a butler service and Champagne. The spacious suites are equipped with Italian marble bathrooms and most have a balcony. Elsewhere on the ship you will find a choice of restaurants, a spa, observation lounge and fitness centre. Despite providing guests with all these comforts, this is still an expedition vessel and operates a full programme of excursions and landings planned by highly experienced expedition leaders. A fleet of Zodiacs ensures that all guests can enjoy every landing while specialist speakers will help you to understand everything that you are seeing in depth. This is polar expedition sailing at its most luxurious.
Ship details Built / Refurbished: Number of passengers: Number of staff & crew: Length: Width: Speed: Number of passenger decks: Number of cabins: Ice class: Rating:
Silver Explorer
1989 / 2017 144 117 354 foot 52 foot 14 knots 5 72 1A Deluxe Cabin, Silver Explorer
Dining area, Silver Explorer
www.audleytravel.com/polar • 01993 838 651 • Expedition vessels
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Ocean Adventurer Ocean Adventurer may have been ploughing through polar waters for many years now but has been regularly refurbished and is still a firm favourite among those who have sailed on her. The cabins are spacious and modern with a good selection of twin cabins and suites to choose from. As part of its most recent refurbishment in 2017 the ship was also fitted with two new Rolls Royce engines making it one of the most efficient boats in the fleet. Away from your cabin you will find a fantastic restaurant, bar, observation lounge, a small gym and a library. With generous amounts of public space and outside seating for those calm and sunny days this ship offers a very comfortable polar experience alongside a full excursion programme.
Ship details Built / Refurbished: Number of passengers: Number of staff & crew: Length: Width: Speed: Number of passenger decks: Number of cabins: Ice class: Rating:
Ocean Adventurer
Cabin, Ocean Adventurer
Dining area, Ocean Adventurer
Ocean Diamond & Ocean Endeavour In a former life Ocean Diamond operated as a luxury cruise ship for 225 passengers, now she carries no more than 189 so there is plenty of room for everyone. The cabins range from triple shares to a stunning balcony suite and also single cabins. There are two restaurants, an observation lounge as well as a main lounge and bar, an open bridge and a small gym. Ocean Diamond is one of the fastest ships in the fleet, shortening sea journeys and allowing you more time to explore. She offers a full programme of excursions including options, at an additional cost, for camping, cross-country skiing, kayaking, mountaineering and paddle boarding. A similar sized ship, Ocean Endeavour is the only vessel in the fleet that focuses on well-being with yoga and spa programmes. Ocean Diamond
Ship details: Ocean Diamond Built / Refurbished: Number of passengers: Number of staff & crew: Length: Width: Speed: Number of passenger decks: Number of cabins: Ice class: Rating: 34
1974 / Continual 189 144 407 foot 52 foot 15.5 knots 5 101 1D Medium
Dining area, Ocean Diamond
Cabin, Ocean Diamond
1976 / 2017 132 87 332 foot 53 foot 12 knots 4 63 1A First class
Silver Cloud Silver Cloud is not only one of the fastest ships in the fleet is also right up there as one of the most luxurious. The cabins are all spacious and most have some form of private balcony from where you can enjoy the view and the complimentary Champagne. There are five restaurants on board including a Relais & Châteaux option and a Hot Rocks on the sun deck next to the swimming pool. In addition to this you will find a gym, spa, library and a dedicated mud room. Nothing has been overlooked in the design of this ship which has the highest ratio of staff to passengers and is fully inclusive, including a butler service to your cabin. Yet, for all this luxury and attention to detail the main focus is still on the expedition and ensuring that you see as much as possible on your trip with multiple landings each day in groups of no more than 14 and presentations by leading specialists in the lecture theatre.
Deck, Silver Cloud
Ship details
Dining area, Silver Cloud
Arctic terns
Built / Refurbished: Number of passengers: Number of staff & crew: Length: Width: Speed: Number of passenger decks: Number of cabins: Ice class: Rating:
1993 / 2017 200 208 514 foot 71 foot 18 knots 6 131 1C Deluxe
M/V Plancius These days the M/V Plancius is one of the smallest vessels in polar waters. Designed to be comfortable but not luxurious the decor of the Plancius is neutral and fairly minimalist making it perfect for expedition cruising. Despite the focus being on practicality the cabins are comfortable and range from quad share to twin superior options. The public areas are big enough to accommodate everyone so that you can always find a quiet corner of your own either in the observation lounge, library, bridge or out on deck. The ship operates some of the more adventurous expeditions available with kayaking, camping, snowshoeing, mountaineering and some serious hiking, there are also trips with dedicated photography courses.
Ship details Built / Refurbished: Number of passengers: Number of staff & crew: Length: Width: Speed: Number of passenger decks: Number of cabins: Ice class: Rating:
1976 / Continual 116 47 292 foot 48 foot 10.5 knots 4 53 1D Medium
M/V Plancius
M/V Plancius
Cabin, M/V Plancius
www.audleytravel.com/polar • 01993 838 651 • Expedition vessels
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Ioffe & Vavilov Two of the original polar expedition vessels, Ioffe and Vavilov are the workhorses of the polar expedition boat world. Originally built for the Russians for scientific research, they are still being used by scientists when they are not taking passengers through the ice. The presence of their dredging machinery on deck really does add an authentic air of pioneering exploration to any trip. The expedition crew truly love these ships and will be on hand to take you off the boat at every available opportunity. The cabins, which have a distinctly Soviet style, come in a vast array of options from large suites to four-berth dormitories with shared bathroom. You will also find a sauna, plunge-pool, library, bar, lounge, open bridge and mudroom on board.
Ship details: Ioffe Built / Refurbished: Number of passengers: Number of staff & crew: Length: Width: Speed: Number of passenger decks: Number of cabins: Ice class: Rating:
Ioffe
Cabin, Ioffe
Bar, Ioffe
Ortelius Ortelius comes from the old school of expedition vessels were practicality and sturdiness ruled over balconies and spas. Originally built in Poland for the Russian Academy of Science she is perfectly suited to polar cruising and recent overhauls have done away with some of the Russian decor and brought her up to date immeasurably. This ship is all about getting you to the remotest and wildest parts of the world and you will find the emphasis is on spending as much time as possible ashore on exploratory excursions with adventure options available for those who want. She is not particularly fast but has massively powerful engines and the ability to carry a helicopter on some trips. This has a particular impact on her Antarctic voyages as she can reach places that others can't.
Ship details Built / Refurbished: 1989 / 2014 Number of passengers: 116 Number of staff & crew: 52 Length: 299 foot Width: 56 foot Speed: 10.5 knots Number of passenger decks: 3 Number of cabins: 53 1A equivalent Ice class: Medium Rating:
Ortelius
Cabin, Ortelius
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Deck, Ortelius
1989 / Continual 96 63 384 foot 59 foot 14.5 knots 4 48 1A Medium
Ocean Nova One of the smallest ships in the expedition cruising world, Ocean Nova carries just 78 guests. Cabins include single, twin and triple options and are best described as practical and comfortable. Some twin cabins do have one upper and one lower berth. Despite the simplicity of some of the cabins however the ship has great facilities with a wonderful top deck observation lounge, open bridge, library, restaurant and small gym. With so few people on board the atmosphere is really friendly too. When in the south she spends much of her time stationed on the Antarctic Peninsula operating the fly-cruise trips.
Ship details Built / Refurbished: Number of passengers: Number of staff & crew: Length: Width: Speed: Number of passenger decks: Number of cabins: Ice class: Rating:
Ocean Nova
Dining area, Ocean Nova
1992 / 2006 78 38 240 foot 36 foot 12 knots 2 38 1B Medium
Cabin, Ocean Nova
50 Years of Victory This is a ship that took nearly 20 years to complete and stands in a class of its own on almost any level. Powered by two nuclear reactors she is capable of producing 74,000 horsepower which results in a speed of nine knots through nine feet of ice making her perfect for trips to the North Pole. Although that is her primary destination she also explores some of the most remote regions on the planet and might be circumnavigating the Arctic coastline one year and sailing around Antarctica the next. With an on board helicopter, a fleet of Zodiacs and a huge number of specialists you will be short of nothing. The cabins themselves are definitely Russian but perfectly comfortable. You will also find a pool and sauna, volleyball court, gym, library, massage room, 2 bars and an observation lounge on board.
Ship details Built / Refurbished: Number of passengers: Number of staff & crew: Length: Width: Speed: Number of passenger decks: Number of cabins: Ice class: Rating:
50 Years of Victory
2007 / Continual 128 140 494 foot 98 foot 21 knots 4 66 LL1 Medium Pool, 50 Years of Victory
Helicopter, 50 Years of Victory
www.audleytravel.com/polar • 01993 838 651 • Expedition vessels
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Noorderlicht & Rembrandt van Rijn These two schooners are based in the Arctic and offer such a different experience to any of the other ships featured here that we had to include them. The Noorderlicht was built in 1910 and, although it’s been renovated since, still carries just 20 guests with shared bathrooms while the Rembrandt van Rijn, refitted in 2011, hosts 33 in a little more comfort with en suite bathrooms. These are ideal for the adventurous people who want to be away from the crowd and really get that exploration feeling. During the winter the Noordelicht is often frozen into the ice where it is used as a hotel. The Rembrandt van Rijn is mostly used to explore Spitsbergen and because both ships stay there year round they can offer trips to see the northern lights.
Ship details: Noordelicht Noorderlicht
Built / Refurbished: Number of passengers: Number of staff & crew: Length: Width: Speed: Number of passenger decks: Number of cabins: Ice class: Rating:
Rembrandt van Rijn
Cabin, Rembrandt van Rijn
Polar Pioneer & Spirit of Enderby Two of the smallest ships in the fleet, these sisters offer something very different from the larger boats. Carrying fewer than half the number of passengers as most other ships with just 54 guests on board means that you can experience the ends of the Earth in truly small numbers. Both were originally built in Finland for polar and oceanographic research and despite being on the simple side they are perfectly suited to expedition sailing. Cabins are simple but practical and have everything you need. The real focus is on the landings and experience and with those small numbers you can really make the most of your time ashore. The Spirit of Enderby is also one of a handful of ships to sail to East Antarctica and the sub-Antarctic Islands.
Ship details: Polar Pioneer Built / Refurbished: Number of passengers: Number of staff & crew: Length: Width: Speed: Number of passenger decks: Number of cabins: Ice class: Rating:
1982 / Continual 54 35 233 foot 43 foot 10 knots 3 26 1A Simple
Polar Pioneer
Bridge, Polar Pioneer
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Cabin, Polar Pioneer
1910 / Continual 20 5 151 foot 21 foot 9 knots 1 10 n/a Simple
Useful information
King penguins, South Georgia
Paradise Bay, Antarctic Peninsula
Polar bear, Spitsbergen
Contact us
Photography in this brochure
Address:
We would like to thank the following photographers and organisations for the images used in this brochure:
Audley Travel, New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 9SX, United Kingdom.
Audley staff, clients and suppliers, Alamy, AWL images, Frank Hurley, iStockphoto, Oceanwide Expeditions - Rolf Stange, One Ocean - Daisy Gilardini and Nathan Small, Robert Harding, Steve Allen, Superstock, tourist boards.
Telephone: 01993 838 651 Email: polar@audleytravel.com London Office: Audley Travel, Monsoon Building, 1 Nicholas Road, London W11 4AN, United Kingdom.
Terms & Conditions and Travel Insurance Your booking is subject to the terms and conditions of Audley Travel which are detailed in the booking form. It is vital that you have adequate travel insurance and we are able to suggest a number of policies either for the duration of your trip or on an annual basis.
Whale watching, Antarctica
AITO Membership Audley is a member of the Association of Independent Tour Operators. The association represents Britain’s leading independent tour operators and encourages high standards of quality and service. Audley abides by the Association’s Code of Conduct and adheres to the AITO Quality Charter which can be viewed on www.aito.com
All images used in this brochure were obtained in good faith by Audley Travel Group Limited and in the belief that all necessary consents and clearances were obtained for their use. For any queries relating to photography please contact us on 01993 838 040.
Visit our offices
www.audleytravel.com
If you would like to discuss your travel arrangements in person we welcome personal visits, please call in advance to arrange an appointment with one or more of our country specialists. Our offices are at the New Mill, a 17th-century converted wool mill on the outskirts of Witney, ten miles west of Oxford, on the edge of the Cotswolds. We also have an office in west London, if this is more convenient for you.
Our website is packed with information, features and advice covering all our destinations across the globe. On the site you can browse by theme, interest or region as well as viewing additional accommodation options and itineraries that are not featured in this brochure. You can request all our brochures online or contact us via the website where there is the option to tell us about your plans so that we can start tailoring your itinerary.
www.audleytravel.com/visit-us
Useful information
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New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 9SX, United Kingdom Telephone: 01993 838 651 • Fax: 01993 838 010 Email: polar@audleytravel.com • Website: www.audleytravel.com
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