Go Bold

Soulful wines for the season

WORDS KRYSTAL KAKIMOTO

Changing seasons can also bring a change in the preference of wines we reach for and cooler weather heralds a time when crisp summer wines are set aside for bigger, bolder wines adding warmth to the body and dinner table. Along with wines that are concentrated and flavorful, cooler months also welcome wines that carry special stories to be shared as they are poured adding context and memorability to the wine.

While fragrant rosé from Southern France is often the rage during summer months, the same area also produces fleshy, opulent reds enjoyed when the temperatures begin to dip. Châteauneuf-du-Pape, an appellation located within the Southern Rhône region of France, was recognized as a wine-growing region in 1933, however the area’s history with wine goes much farther back. Early settlements first focused on agriculture, but the region underwent change when Pope Clement V relocated the papacy to Avignon in the 14 th century, located on the left bank of the Rhône River. A lover of wine, he brought vines to the area and elevated viticulture in the new seat of papal power, which became known as Châteauneuf-du-Pape or “The Pope’s New Castle.”

Originally, 10 varietals were allowed in wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape but that number now stands at 18 permissible varietals. The region also adheres to strict appellation rules including a minimum alcohol content of 12.5% and restricted yield limits per vine to encourage concentrated flavors. As a rule, no vineyard is created if the area is not arid enough to sustain lavender and thyme—two herbs that contribute to the garrigue (French for scrub or scrubland) scent that lingers in the background palate of many wines from the area.

The 2015 Domaine de la Janasse “Tradition” ($40/bottle; klwines.com) pops brightly with raspberry, touches of dark chocolate, and interesting flashes of herbaceousness of shiso (perilla leaf) balanced with traditional flavors of the region like dark cherries, black tea, and hints of black pepper. The favorable weather conditions of 2015 resulted in a vintage that was capable of reaching its ripest maturity resulting in a lush, flavorful wine with aging potential.

For a wine so bold and palatable, a dish like Asianinspired braised short ribs would offer enough substance in terms of flavor and weight to avoid being outdone by such a commanding wine. Ribs marinated in a blend of sweet brown sugar, zesty garlic, and savory shoyu (soy sauce) commands a wine with layered nuisance as in the “Tradition.” The wine’s finish of shiso will complement the Asian spices and herbs in the marinade and the silkiness of this wine’s tannins presents enough structure while not domineering the tenderness of the slow-cooked meat.

Cooler months also encourage many to move their bottles of Cabernet Sauvignon out of their cellars and enjoy the spicy and succulent “king of grapes.” While famous from regions such as France and California, Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon has been gaining traction over the past decade for its bold, assertive nature. Vines were first planted in Chile around 1540, but viticulture did not take off until the mid-1800s following a boom of wealth from mineral harvesting in the Atacama Desert. It became fashionable for the wealthy to vacation in France and bring home cuttings of vines to replant in Chile. Dark, fruit-driven Cabernet Sauvignon paired wonderfully with the conditions of regions of the Maipo Valley, which remains Chile’s largest wine region to this day. Here, warm days allow grapes to receive all the warmth possible from the sun and reach their full sugar ripeness while the dramatic drop in temperatures at night ensures bright acidity will remain in the grapes creating balance in the finished wine.

Founded in 1883 with vines from Bordeaux, Concha y Toro vineyards is one of the largest producers of wine in South America and their 2015 Marques de Casa Concha ($19/bottle; wine.com) is a prime example of stellar Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon. Ruby red in color and concentrated with dark fruits and firm tannins, this bottling begs for a pairing that features a flavorful sauce besieged with spices.

Magic occurs when pairing this wine with a dish like succulent roast chicken served alongside a port wine and fig reduction as the dried figs and lemon zest in the sauce playfully pair with flavors of juicy, red cherries and currants found swirling in this wine. The cedar, smoke, and velvety finish of this bottle pairs sumptuously with moist, roasted chicken while enhancing each savory bite and its maturation in American oak casks adds a round vanilla element to the pairing adding levity to this food and wine pairing.

While big, bold reds are mainstays at dinner tables during winter months, sweet whites also have a role at dinner parties and can aid with difficult pairings or exotic dishes. When faced with a problematic pairing, many sommeliers turn to the internationally adored aromatic white grape, Riesling, which originated in the Rhine region of Germany, but shines in the Finger Lakes region of New York.

The first vines in the Finger Lakes were grown in 1829 by an Episcopalian minister in his rectory garden and, over the upcoming decades, more grapes were grown in the region, but it wasn’t until 1982 that official American Viticultural Area (AVA) status was awarded to the Finger Lakes region. The Finger Lakes AVA is often compared to German wine regions along the Rhine River for its similar latitude situations along the globe and, as in Germany, the Riesling grape is a large player in Finger Lakes whose microclimates and glacier-sculpted landscapes provide ideal growing conditions for this grape.

One very special style of wine famous from Finger Lakes is ice wine (eiswein in German) produced during superior vintages when the grapes and weather conditions come together to create highly-prized dessert wine. The tedious process of creating ice wine begins in the vineyard when grapes are hand-picked during early morning hours before grapes are allowed to thaw. The water in the grapes, now in the form of ice, is removed by an immediate pressing allowing the pure nectar from the grapes to be extracted resulting in a concentrated and aromatic juice that is turned into wine.

The 2016 Wagner Vineyards Riesling Ice Wine ($25/375 mL bottle; wagnervineyards.com) presents a luxurious and full-bodied rendition of ice wine exploding with citrus and pineapple fruitiness combined with a zesty acidity and silk-like mouthfeel. While often paired with sweet desserts like apple tarts or custards, another exciting way to enjoy ice wine is when served as an aperitif or paired with appetizers like salted nuts, creamy cheeses, and even olive tapenade. The exciting flavors of rich garlic, briny olives, and salty anchovies can prove to be a difficult pairing, but the contrasting flavors from this ice wine provides palate cleansing bursts of citrus between bites and the generous amounts of sweetness found in this wine mellows the intense flavors.

Whether enjoyed quietly at home or poured at a gathering with friends, the flavorful and intense wines we select during the cooler months of the year can help contribute to the significance and memorability of an evening. Thus, selecting one with both flavor and soul are important keys when choosing a bottle to enjoy. Cheers!