Surf Like Kings

Surfing is a beloved activity in Hawai‘i, especially on Kaua‘i where the Pacific makes a bold statement with its rolling waves. The Garden Isle’s year-round warm weather and ideal water temperatures, as well as persistent waves, make it a prime locale for surfing. Gliding across the ocean is an exhilarating experience and one that’s highly sought after. It’s why so many people uproot their lives to move to the island and why many surf competitions are held in Kaua‘i waters at famous spots such as Hanalei Bay.

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While surf enthusiasts have been drawn to the Garden Isle for decades, the water sport is steeped in ancient Hawaiian history and was an esteemed activity once fit for ali‘i (royalty). He‘e nalu (literally “wave sliding”) dates back thousands of years throughout Oceania. The water sport stretched across communities in many regions, including West Africa and Peru, but gained notoriety in Polynesia, and more specifically Hawai‘i.

In ancient Hawai‘i, surfing was enjoyed by men and women of all ages as a recreational, social and competitive activity. It boosted relationships among Native Hawaiians and also served as a spiritual practice. Rituals were conducted such as wave chanting and paying homage to the ocean prior to surf sessions. Another ceremonial practice included shaping and carving of the wooden boards, which were made from trees including koa and breadfruit. Many Hawaiians to this day continue these traditions and still find a deep cultural and spiritual connection to the sport.

Since surfing was available and accessible for everyone to participate in during ancient times there weren’t many things that distinguished ali‘i apart from others when they were out on the water except for the size of their boards. Though there is some speculation that certain places that offered slow, gentle waves like Waikïkï, were kapu (off-limits) to commoners. There is less speculation, however, that chiefs used extremely long boards called olo. The boards were around 16 feet—about twice the size of today’s longboards. Everyone else used alaia boards, thin, mid-sized boards akin to today’s shortboards, or paipo, which were short, round-nosed boards that were solely ridden on the stomach like a bodyboard.

These are some of the various aspects of surfing in Hawai‘i that were well-documented during the late 1700s when Europeans began arriving and were fascinated by what they saw subsequently writing down their observations. By the late 1800s, surfing took a back seat in cultural activities, however, as the Hawaiian population was severely decimated due to the introduction of Western illnesses and a changing colonial economy that meant there was less free time spent in the ocean and more hours spent working in plantation fields. Theories also speculate that Christian missionaries may have thought the sport was sinful and encouraged its discontinuation.

Surfing had a renaissance by the early 1900s. Visitors flocked to Hawai‘i in droves and were enamored with the sport of catching waves. After the overthrow of the monarchy and America’s annexation of the Islands, the nation’s economic influence led to the commercialization of the water sport. It was during this time period that the most celebrated surfer and greatest waterman of all time, Duke Kahanamoku, also known as “The Big Kahuna,” rose to fame and contributed to the international recognition of the sport. Since then, surfing has become a multi-billion dollar industry.

Among top professional athletes in recent decades who hail from Kaua‘i include the world-famous competitor Bethany Hamilton who was attacked by a tiger shark at the age of 13 losing most of her left arm. Titus Kinimaka of the North Shore of Kaua‘i is another distinguished surfer from the island whose daughter, Maluhia, followed in his footsteps becoming her own legendary national and international competitive surfer. Maluhia Kinimaka grew up catching Kaua‘i waves and competed throughout most of her childhood, but finds that it’s the “creative freedom” and the sport’s cultural connections to her Hawaiian ancestry that she appreciates the most.

“When there are no judges around, you can surf impulsively and expressively, doing maneuvers you want whenever you want to do them without criticism or worry that you might lose your monthly salary if you don’t complete your ride,” she says.

This freedom on the water is precisely what draws visitors from around the world to dabble in the sport. All islands offer different surf, but Kaua‘i is known for having some of the best waves across the state. That said—there are precautions to take, particularly among those without experience.

The best spots for surfing are mostly under the radar and only known to locals so if you really want the finest surf that Kaua‘i has to offer, you must befriend kama‘äina (Hawai‘i residents). Still, there are ample opportunities to catch waves all around the island and even the most well-known locales offer phenomenal surf, especially if you’ve never been on a board before.

Hanalei Bay is great for beginners during the summer season and Po‘ipü Bay is perfect for newbies during winter. Kalapakï Bay is protected year-round and often has easily accessible, gently rolling waves. What’s great about all three of these locations is that they have surf schools nearby so you can hire a professional to help you learn the skills needed to catch a wave. You’ll receive instruction on everything from how to get up on the board and at what moment to start paddling in order to grab a wave heading in your direction.

Advanced surfers might already know the ropes, but they should still take heed of the power of Kaua‘i’s ocean, which is unlike anyplace else. And while a lesson might not be necessary, it’s advisable to ease into the surf and only jump into water at beaches where a lifeguard is on post.

KALIPAKĪ BAY

Maluhia Kinimaka whose family owns and operates Titus Kinimaka’s Hawaiian School of Surfing (hawaiianschoolofsurfing. com/808-652-1116) in Hanalei advises, “It is always best to do your first couple of sessions at a near shore break with easy accessibility to emergency personnel, just as a warm-up to get used to the caliber of Hawaiian waves… I believe many visitors are caught off guard by the power and unpredictability of Kaua‘i’s surf spots and often find themselves in dangerous situations all too quickly.”

Always remember to keep safety in mind and be aware of your surroundings; and be kind and courteous to everyone else chasing the same epic waves. Make sure to practice good surf etiquette. If you don’t know the rules, learn them before you paddle out. Once you are comfortable, get on board to experience a thrilling ride unlike any other.

For a list of Kaua‘i beaches with lifeguards, visit hawaiibeachsafety.com/kauai.

BETHANY HAMILTON

HANALEI BAY