Kōkeʻe is Calling

Explore untouched beauty

WORDS COCO ZICKOS

Stand atop the majestic Kalalau Valley, venture to the ornate edges of the Näpali Coast and immerse yourself in rainforests dripping with native foliage in Kökeÿe State Park. This incredible region of undeveloped ÿäina (land) lets you peer into Kaua‘i’s ethereal vistas where mountain topography meets paradise. This northwestern locale is unlike anywhere else on the island and offers bountiful opportunities to commune with endemic flora and fauna.

The journey to this natural mecca begins at the historic town of Waimea. This is where the road that climbs the gorgeous red gorge of Waimea Canyon starts its steep ascent to Kökeÿe. Lovely views abound along the way, including tumbling waterfalls like the mighty Waipoÿo and broad, craggy cliffs that plunge into profound valleys.

Kökeÿe State Park begins around mile marker 14, when the smell of eucalyptus combines with crisp mountain air to awaken your senses. Bring a jacket because temperatures at this higher elevation average in the 60s during the day and 50s at night.

After hitting all of the Waimea Canyon lookouts, a recommended stop is Kökeÿe Museum where you’ll learn about the rich natural history of the area. This quaint rustic repository, founded in the 1950s, offers information about endangered Hawaiian species, and how cattle and the sandalwood industry inflicted great damage upon this mountainous terrain during the 1800s. You can also learn about the reforestation efforts of members of the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) who, during the 1930s, were responsible for creating today’s tree-filled Kökeÿe.

Linger longer at this central Kökeÿe hub in May or October when Hui o Laka, the nonprofit that operates the museum, hosts family-friendly events. Banana Poka Round-Up takes place in May on the grounds of the historic CCC camp—one of the few in the nation that remain largely intact. This event raises awareness about the local environment and includes cultural activities like lei making. The Eö e Emalani i Alakaÿi, or Emalani Festival, takes places at Kanaloahuluhulu Meadow and commemorates the journey Queen Emma took through the uplands of Kökeÿe to Kilohana Vista in 1871. This festival occurs in October and includes a reenactment of the queen’s arrival with her entourage and equine companions, as well as hula performances and music.

If you’d like to slip away from the crowds, lace up a pair of hiking shoes and experience pristine scenery by plodding along any number of Kökeÿe trails. People of all ages and athletic abilities have an equal opportunity to submerge in the serenity of Kökeÿe forests. Options range from an easy Nature Trail located behind the museum to more advanced hikes. Just remember to always check the weather before heading out on any hiking adventure because paths can become slippery and dangerous.

Nuÿalolo (8 miles round-trip) and Awaÿawapuhi (6 miles round-trip) trails are both excellent options for the physically inclined. The former consists of a daring cliff-hugging adventure, while the latter plunges deep into the forest. Each trail’s midway point offers some of the most immaculate panoramic views of the Näpali Coast. Emerald peaks preside over ravines that cuddle up next to a crisp blue ocean, creating an exceptional picnic post. Relish in this moment because you’ll be walking an arduous upward trek all the way back to your car.

Or, opt to amble along the upper boundaries of Kalalau Valley some 4,000-feet above sea level on the Pihea Trail. Located at the end of the road, the path starts at the Puÿu o Kila Lookout. If you get there early, you may hear the delicate chirps of native birds while you traverse the upper edge of Kalalau Valley on this footpath. After approximately 2 miles, keep going for an all-out hearty adventure into the depths of Kauaÿi’s boggy wilderness. The Alakaÿi Swamp Trail is where a boardwalk draped in perpetual mist leads hikers a few more miles to a stunning view of Wainiha Valley and Hanalei Bay. This famed boardwalk, originally made of redwood during the 1990s, was constructed to protect the pristine environment and help travelers migrate through the muddy montane. Several years ago, Kauaÿi Na Ala Hele program’s staff members started painstakingly replacing the wood, which has since rotted due to the region’s ample rainfall, with recycled plastic lumber.

If you embark on this adventure, pack for damp conditions and make sure heavy rain is not in the forecast. And leave early enough before the sun rises to catch the elusive view at Kilohana Lookout, the midway point, before it’s cloaked in afternoon clouds.

Kökeÿe is steeped in natural elements but the Pihea and Alakaÿi Swamp trails are the most imbued with native species. Birders and botanists can find species that evolved in isolation over millennia that are found nowhere else in the world.

You’ll find the state’s most abundant native tree, ÿöhiÿa lehua, and its wispy red flowers, on the Awaÿawapuhi Trail, while its shorter shrubs grow along the Alaka‘i Swamp Trail. Lichen and hearty ferns, such as häpuÿu, a Hawaiian tree fern with large, fluffy fronds that uncurl as they grow, prefer the Alakaÿi Wilderness Preserve’s marshy wetland. The pükiawe bush, sprinkled with red berries, ÿohe naupaka, a shrub with waxy leaves and yellow trumpet-shaped flowers and the ÿölapa tree, are other native plants scattered throughout Kökeÿe.

This magical location is also home to eight Hawaiian forest bird species. The beauty and sounds of these delicate creatures can be enjoyed in a few areas of the park. Hiking is usually required, as well as plenty of patience, to find the small, plucky birds.

Keep your eyes open, especially for the crimsoncolored ÿapapane who sip the nectar of the ÿöhiÿa lehua blossoms in many parts of the forest. It’s less likely you’ll find puaiohi, Kauaÿi’s grey thrush; akekeÿe, Kaua‘i’s yellow-green honeycreeper; or ÿakikiki, another endemic Garden Isle species, as they are critically endangered. But you could catch a rare glimpse of an ‘anianiau, Hawai‘i’s littlest honeycreeper; an ÿelepaio, a curious bird that might seek you out first; an ‘i‘iwi, a distinct honeycreeper with an elongated, curved beak; or a Kaua‘i ‘amakihi, a small olive green honeycreeper.

Follow up an active adventure like birding with a respite at Kökeÿe Lodge where body and soul can recharge with a warm bowl of Portuguese bean soup or a fresh cup of coffee by the fireplace. Or, receive the most out of Kökeÿe’s allure and spend the night snuggled in the woods. Hear nothing but the song of native crickets at night and wake up to the delightful trills of birds in the morning and gain a jump-start to the day before the whirl of traffic and throngs of people arrive. Several locations are available for camping, as long as proper permits are obtained beforehand. Another no-frills overnight option is The Cabins at Kokee Park—a small step above camping and an equal opportunity for spending more time in this captivating countryside.

Kökeÿe State Park offers sweeping views of some of the most gorgeous vistas on Kauaÿi. Plan at least a half-day scenic tour of this pristine location that showcases some of the Garden Isle’s best natural artistry from the great chasms of Waimea Canyon to the lush valleys of the Näpali Coast.

Visit http://dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks/kauai/kokee-statepark/ for more information.