CAPTIVATING CROATIA
INTRODUCTION
Four travelers in search of a new place to explore together. Most every year, the four of us take a self-drive trip together and this year after lots of discussion, we settled on Croatia. None of us knew much about the country except the recent horrific history when Yugoslavia broke up into individual countries but not without a great deal of bloodshed and destruction. However, since we see Croatia as a destination for many tour companies, we decided it would be “ready” for us. Micki researched hotels and interesting places to visit and we settled on dates and rendezvous sites since we would be arriving in Croatia from different areas. We decided on 10 days in the country since we all had places to go after Croatia.
There’s no exaggeration in saying that we really picked a winner. Croatia is beautiful in landscape, geography, history (especially old Roman periods), national parks, intriguing and easy to visit cities, a gorgeous coastline on the Adriatic Sea, tasty food and good restaurants to serve it to you, friendly people who speak English everywhere you go (children start taking English language classes in the 3rd grade right through to graduation). Another big bonus for selfdrive visits is the road system which is amazing and very easy to navigate, except in the downtowns of some older cities, not really built for automobile traffic. But most of the time, GPS helped there. And in some old towns, no private cars were allowed. We had to park in designated parking lots and then enter the city on foot (Zadar and Split)! Advice to other travelers who like to explore new and unfamiliar places: Try to visit Croatia before it becomes totally commercialized. And if you are a “Game of Thrones” fan, this is required visiting just like the TV show was appointment viewing. So many of the scenes of the series were shot in this beautiful country. We didn’t see them all on this visit so it may require a return trip.
A TEASPOONFUL OF CROATIAN HISTORY
Like Spain, Croatia is loaded with history! Because it is bulging at the seams with so much significant change, I must at least point out the various civilizations who have tramped, conquered and ruled this part of the Balkans and left their imprints behind. Don’t worry, I promise to make it brief. Hope I don’t have to break the promise, but here goes.
Celts Rule: 279 BC
Greeks Rule: 390 BC
Romans Rule: 229 BC
Croats Rule: 600 AD
Charlemagne Rules : 799 AD
Hungarians Rule: 896
Venetians Rule: 1000
Hapsburgs Rule: 1350
Turks Rule: 1600
Croatia Free: 1688 Turks defeated
Napoleon Rules: 1809
Croatia and Slovenia unite 1868
World War I 1914
Kingdom of Yugoslavia 1919 Treaty of Paris
Independent State of Croatia 1941-1945
Tito Dies 1980
War of Independence 1991 to 1995
Croatia joins NATO 2009
Croatia joins the EU 2013
I warned you it was complicated, but I left out all the back and forth fighting and winning among tribes, parts of the Roman Empire and Byzantium, internal fighting over leadership in Croatia, comings and goings of the Hapsburgs and so much more.
But here’s the good part: The only significant history you should be aware of in your first visit to this beautiful and much fought over bit of real estate on the Adriatic Sea is Roman because that’s the legacy still most prominent here. Certainly there are Christian churches and cathedrals from various ages and in various styles, but it’s the Roman influence that is most dramatic! So there you have it!
ARRIVAL CITY: ZAGREB
Not really much to say about this city because we were there only overnight after having arrived from Bilbao, Spain through Munich, Germany, late in the afternoon. Micki and Dan were already there when we arrived and they picked us up in the airport and drove us to The Royal Airport Hotel. Quite utilitarian property whose only merit was that it was clean. We had supper in the hotel restaurant because there didn’t seem to be another establishment close by. So we were a captive audience and there were no other guests. At least not any who chose to join us!
The food was nondescript but why would we have expected anything else since the waiter appeared to be not only the waiter but also the cook and even a general factotum for the hotel. We think he just took something from the freezer and zapped it in the microwave. This was our first acquaintance with Croatian money however. We were astonished when we saw the menu prices— 7700 Kuna for spaghetti! We relaxed after Micki and Dan laughingly informed us that a Croatian Kuna is worth a little less than 14 cents in our money.
We decided on an early departure the next morning so we could get on our way to the first of our target cities. So that is the extent of our knowledge of Zagreb.
RIJEKA
RISNJAK NATIONAL PARK
We went to Rijeka to visit Risnjak National Park to walk the Leska Trail there. This well-maintained trail is a 2.6 miles long loop with a soft duff and leaf foundation. There are 23 signs along the trail to inform walkers about the various aspects of the park: trees, animals, birds, amphibians and geography. A native tree, the silver fir, is almost extinct in Croatia but this park is a last refuge for it where it mingles with the more abundant beech trees. It drizzled on us about 2/3 of the way through the 2 hour walk, but not hard enough to get us wet. Good thing too because we had stupidly brought no raingear along with us to the trail.
We spent little time in the city nearest this park, but we can testify that the scenery in the area is lovely and the road system is amazing. We stayed in a modern hotel (the Jadran) in the old town for the night and walked a bit as we headed a few blocks to the only restaurant in the area. It was not impressive at all so no name is necessary. The specialty was fish lasagna which was special only in how much we disliked it. A huge glob of the stuff was brought to the table and as soon as we sampled it, we discovered it was cold throughout. Sent it back for heating which took an unusual length of time and even when somewhat warmer we did not like it at all!
Fish and lasagna don’t mix well enough to call it “special.”
IT’S SPRING – IT’S SNOWING!
We set off to visit and hike in the Plitvice National Park. There are no towns or villages within this large park area (115 square miles) which has been a UNESCO site since l979. But there are hotels and our choice was really well- situated, comfortable, and in forest surroundings. An adjacent restaurant provided variety in our dining choices. The Hotel Degenija was to be our “home” while we explored this park with its waterfalls, lakes, forest trails and footbridges around the lakes, with boat rides added to the ways of seeing the area. However, nature intervened and we saw very little of the park except what we drove through to get to the hotel.
One of the saddest sights we saw approaching the park in the rain was a group of bicyclists pedaling miserably in the rain. They had inadequate raingear (just thin plastic ponchos for most of them). Their expressions were grim and woeful. It seemed to us that they were on some sort of organized “vacation” trip and it had to be one of the most wretched experiences ever. One young woman who was bringing up the rear looked particularly woebegone as though she were wishing that she were anywhere else in the world. There was nothing we could do to help them since the group looked to be about 20 strong. Our car was a Nissan Crossover and it was pretty much filled to capacity with the four of us and our luggage.
By the time we arrived, it was raining hard and we were told that it had been raining for several days and more days of precipitation were predicted. Call us wusses if you want, but none of us likes hiking or boating in a downpour with thunder and lightning around us. So we bagged those ideas and looked for something to eat. The hotel restaurant was closed until the evening meal so we went to the next door restaurant. It proved to be a very good place and we ate so much that we did not need dinner that night. Rain was still pouring when we left the restaurant so we repaired to our rooms to read and relax.
One of the funniest and yet saddest sights we saw approaching the park in the rain was a group of bicyclists pedaling miserably in the rain. They had inadequate raingear (just thin plastic ponchos for most of them). Their expressions were grim and woeful. It seemed to us that they were on some sort of organized “vacation” trip and it had to be one of the most wretched experiences ever. One young woman who was bringing up the rear looked particularly woebegone as though she were wishing that she were anywhere else in the world. There was nothing we could do to help them since the group looked to be about 20 strong. Our car was a Nissan Crossover and it was pretty much filled to capacity with the four of us and our luggage. Instead of stopping, the rain morphed into hail and sleet and then progressed to light snow. We were at altitude (4200 feet) in the park and it had been colder and colder all day, so not too surprising that the precipitation turned to snow. We all agreed to hope that tomorrow would be more favorable weather-wise.
Next morning, we awoke to a world of winter white snow on the ground and decorating the trees everywhere we looked and now falling much more thickly and steadily. It was certainly enchanting in appearance but also a bit alarming since our car was not prepared for snowy travels and we knew that some of the roads out of the park were narrow, twisty, and high up. The hotel manager told us that about two feet had accumulated through the night and that more was expected. Well, once again, call us wimps (we are from Florida and Arizona after all) but we decided to leave the park early to avoid being trapped there. We later learned that 6 feet ended up filling the area that day. We couldn’t help but think of the bicycle group and wonder where they had the night.
The drive out was captivating as we watched the snow blanket the trees and crowd the rooftops of the small villages we saw when we left the park proper. We did see a wonderful world in the park but very different from what we had anticipated. However, it was an experience we are happy to have had!
In the Merry Merry Month of May
PLASKI
In the small village of Plaski (once in Serbian territory) there was a rather imposing, though closed and derelict, church which piqued our interest. We stopped and found a plaque which described the church and its history. The church is called the Serbian Orthodox Church and it was constructed from 1756 to 1763. The building has been the victim of the many invasions, bombings, and warfare in the area and today does not function as a church. It was last ravaged by the Croatian Nazis in World War II and was never restored or renovated since very few Serbs live in Croatia any longer.
NOVI VINODOLSKI
Once we left the snowy National Park area, we had a lovely drive through backroads before reaching the main highway to Senj. We passed though small but picturesque villages which appeared to be abandoned until we would see livestock in the field or clothes hanging on a line. It’s impossible not to wonder about the lives of the folks who live in such isolation.
The larger village of Novi Vinodolski was really lovely and lively so it was a pleasure to visit. It was Sunday morning and as we walked the narrow and winding streets there were people of all ages hurrying to the church service. Because mass was in progress, we never entered the sanctuary of the Parish Church of Saints Phillip and Jacob. It was built in the 14th Century but has been altered several times, from a 3-sided basilica to a square baroque style in the 18th Century and a more modern façade added in the early 20th Century. The steeple was added in 1909.
The building now housing the museum and Town Hall on the main square was once a castle-fortress built in the 13th Century. The former Bishop’s Residence connected with the castle is also part of the municipal center of town, but all were closed on Sunday.
On the Adriatic side of the Parish Church was a convenient esplanade where we could view the coastline and an island part of this pretty city.
Quiet narrow streets on an early Sunday morning
This charming town was a worthy stop and probably not on the usual tourist routes.
SENJ
Senj is a small (population around 7600) but ancient city (at least 3000 years old). Like all the areas around the Mediterranean Sea and its environs, the history is complicated, lengthy, and multicultural. The Ottoman Empire, The Austrian Empire, Greeks, Romans, Italians and other smaller groups have lived there, fought there, and disappeared except as isolated bits of architectural and cultural influences. The German Luftwaffe bombed it into almost complete destruction in 1943.
Yet the city survives and lives mainly on its fishing and tourist activities. It has attractive beaches and affordable hotels, restaurants, and shopping. Fortress of Nehaj
The iconic attraction for tourists however is the Fortress of Nehaj, completed in 1558. At that time, the Turks and the Venetians were at the height of their power and warring with one another almost continuously. Senj was often a focus of conflict. A captain of the local Uskaks ordered all churches outside the city walls to be destroyed and this new fortress constructed.
The site selected was a 203 foot hill (Trbusnjak) on the coast that was difficult to access and attack. The fortress is 60 feet high and 75 feet wide with 10 feet thick walls. Three floors housed the troops, their supplies, a great dining hall, a small Romanesque church to St. Juraj from the 11th Century, food storage, barracks, arsenal and even a cistern for rain catchment open to the sky on the first floor. These floors now house an impressive collection of Croatian cultural and historical artifacts.
The most notable aspect of our visit however was not the interior of the fortress. It was the difficulty reaching the entrance and exiting. Why? Because there was a hurricane force wind raging in from the sea! Even living in Florida with hurricanes and often being on the beach during parts of a storm, I have never felt such strong gales and gusts before at least not while I was outside. It was difficult to fight up the small incline from the parking lot and climb the wooden staircase entrance. People attempting the walk were bent over at 70 degree angles trying to make headway.
Once inside this formidably built structure, we could still hear the winds howling around the corners and through the sky opening. The winds did not die down during our visit but instead increased in intensity and switched directions and now we had to battle for the return to the parking lot while attempting to avoid being swept off our feet. The winds really were that strong. Strangely enough, the sky above was clear and blue, no rain was
falling or even threatening, and yet this fierce wind continued with hurricane strength. Folks around us seemed unfazed by this phenomenon and the staff inside said it was not unusual! One staff member even suggested that Dan take my arm to keep me grounded.
We saw unusual wave action on the Adriatic here due to the very strong winds. What we observed was something none of us had ever seen before on any body of water. There were waves of course with little white caps on them, but that is familiar. What was so strange was the rapidly and constantly forming and numerous small water spouts dancing all over the surface of the sea. It was as if the wind and the waves were playing games with each other for their own pleasure.
NIN
A charming small town (population 1,132) with an important history (it’s 3000 years old) that we just stumbled upon driving to Zadar. We had a good day for exploration because it had finally stopped raining on us and we had clear skies overhead as well. Nin was important to the Romans and there are many ruins here, but we did not see them. It was also vital to the Catholic region in Croatia. It was the first bishopric recognized by the Pope XIII. The old town of Nin is on a tiny islet in a lagoon of the Adriatic and it is connected to the mainland by two old stone bridges originally built by the Romans but repaired in later centuries.
STATUE OF DUKE BRANIMIR
We went looking first for the statue of Duke Branimir who is given credit for having first united and ruled the tribes that made up Croatia during his time. He ruled the united country from 879 to 892 BC His statue was supposed to be on the mainland end of one of the stone bridges according to our guidebook, but we did not find him there. Instead, we were giving up when we took a wrong turn and found him in the middle of construction site, probably temporarily. Anyway, we got out of the car, paid appropriate homage to this town and country hero, took his picture and rubbed his boot as we were told was the local tradition supposedly to bring good luck. It was obvious that many people follow that tradition because his brass boot toe is shiny gold.
ST.NICOLAS CHURCH
Our next quarry was the 11th Century St. Nicolas Church and that we found easily because it’s visible from most of the city. It is Pre-Romanesque in style and was built on an earthen pyramid which is atop a prehistoric tomb. It is built in a trefoil style (meaning in the form of three overlapping semi-circles) as a fortress. The three semicircles form 3 apses with a 4th added structure as the entrance. The central core of the church is a circle. The 8 small towers atop the structure were added in the 16th Century. The construction material is small stones covered in a stucco-like smooth exterior surface. The dimensions of the church reveal how small it actually is: length is 19 feet, width is 18 feet and height is 19.5 feet. We climbed the small hill and walked around the structure but it was closed up tight. We later learned that mass is said there on December 6 (St. Nicholas’ Feast Day) and on April 25 (Feast Day of St. Mark). We only missed St. Mark’s Day by a couple of weeks.
Another reason why the church is revered and well-preserved is that it was the coronation church of at least seven kings of Croatia over the centuries. Tradition has it that these rulers would climb up the hill and present themselves to the people. The new king would then “cut” in 4 swathes (slices with his sword) the four corners of the world (symbolically of course). He would next be crowned inside the church. Needless to say, this church is Roman Catholic.
ZADAR
This wonderfully, beautiful, historic, friendly, artistic, and forward-looking city is one of my two favorites in the entire Croatia visit. Zadar is thought to be the oldest continuously occupied city in Croatia, founded in 48 BC
Cars are not allowed into the city, so everyone must park outside the walls. When we found our spot, we then had to bring all our luggage in with us as we walked up and down the streets trying to find our hotel. Streets are short sometimes and change names as you progress. It took us quite a time of frustration to find the ART Hotel which was comfortable and well-located. Roman Forum
The ruins of the ancient Roman Forum (built between the 1st and 3rd Centuries BC) stand in the shadow of the church of St. Donatus which was constructed on the old Roman Forum area and utilized much material, likestones, from the Forum structures. Surprisingly enough, it is possible to wander among the standing stones and broken columns freely with no signs warning “do not touch.”
CHURCH OF ST.DONATUS
Though the ancient ruins are Roman, there are many other periods of history represented in Zadar. For instance, the current Church of St. Donatus was originally called Church of the Holy Trinity when it was built in the 9th Century AD and renamed later for Bishop Donatus. It is built in three round apses and has excellent acoustics. It has not been used as a functioning church since 1797. But today, that round structure makes it perfect for concerts of all kinds.
Church of St. Donatus (Lt) Bell Tower of Cathedral (Rt)
Cathedral of St. Anastasia
THE CATHEDRAL OF ST. ANASTASIA was also built on the floor of the Roman Forum and looks across those ruins at St. Donatus church. The Byzantines erected it the 9th Century BC and it was later renovated in the 12th and 13th centuries in a Romanesque style.
TheLandGate
A leisurely walk from our hotel took us to all the major sites of the city including the large Petar Zoranic Square. A Plexiglas floor in its center allows passersby to look downwards and backwards in time: the ruins of an original Roman street and building remains are there to see.
The 5 wells supplied the city with its water until 1838
Up the stairs to the left are the Five Wells Square and the entrance to a lovely secluded garden, the Queen Jelena Madijeska Park.
A peaceful and pretty elevated garden/park on terraces lines the Five Wells Square . There are well-marked paths and steps up onto each terrace with views of the city below. The park sparkled with flowers and greenery and many birds could be seen and heard in the trees and even posing on walls and cornices.
From the elevated park, one can look back to see the Zoranic square, down to watch cars streaming through the 1543 Venetian Land Gate of the city walls, and beyond to the clear azure waters of the Adriatic Sea.
The UNESCO Venetian Land Gate
Sea Organ and Salutation to the Sun
Leaping ahead to the very modern, the beautiful concrete sea-walk along the Adriatic is a pleasure to the eyes, ears, and to those who enjoy the sea breezes and the smells of salty air. On our many walks along the quay, we saw people at all hours of the day and night enjoying the beauties of this special place.
First of the delights is the “Sea Organ.” This wonder was created and installed by the Croatian architect Nikola Basic in 2005. Around the middle of the sea walk, he created tubes and placed them under 7 marble steps just off the walkway on the seaside. These were configured so that as swells and waves moved in and out, the water forces air up into the tubes to create tones. The sounds are random, long and rather mournful but also lovely.
Ain’t Life Grand!
A few feet away, Basic installed his “SALUTATION TO THE SUN” during the same year. This artful creation is a circle 72 feet in diameter composed of multilayered glass that work as solar panels, creating electricity.
The amount of energy created during the daylight hours provides lighting for the entire walkway as well as firing colored lights under the glass panels. These lights are multicolored and random in their flashing. Stunningly beautiful at
night. In varying distances from the central “sun” are 9 smaller circles acting in the same way to represent the planets in the solar system.
People step into the circles and dance around the whole thing is mesmerizing and especially with the accompaniment of the sea organ tolling and intoning like Debussy’s “Engulfed Cathedral!” Museum of Ancient Glass
On the city wall of Zadar is the intriguing MUSEUM OF Ancient Glass. As the guidebook informs, glass is an artificial product, produced by human beings. The only natural glass is volcanic in origin: obsidian. This museum displays several centuries of glass production in and around Zadar itself.
As Roman and earlier ruins have been unearthed by archeologists, so many examples of intricate, delicate, sturdy, lavishly decorated with colors have been discovered. It is widely believed that glass production began in ancient Mesopotamia or perhaps Egypt in mid-second millennium BC As the decades rolled by, techniques of glass production became more sophisticated. This museum houses finds from nearby Nin, other local areas, but the majority were found in the necropolis of Zadar. The examples are awe-inspiring and breathtaking in their beauty and we thoroughly enjoyed exploring the many galleries dedicated to different ages of production.
Something maybe ”lowly” because it is underfoot must be mentioned: the beautiful rectangular stones that pave the streets and alleys of Zadar. These marvelous additions to the special look of Zadar accommodate pedestrian and automobile traffic. Wet or dry, rain or sun, these stones shine. Corners of the rectangles are softened into curves and it is amazing to imagine how many feet from how many ages have scuffed along, keeping them polished!
NEWS FOR FOODIES:
I was grateful for the Italian influence on the cuisine of this city. Within easy walking distance of the ART Hotel we occupied were two ice cream shops with windows on the streets. There I was able to find my favorite flavor of gelato: strachiatella. It is so delicious that I had to visit both shops (on different occasions) to compare the richness and flavor of each one. What a good excuse to enjoy gelato more than once!
A particularly wonderful meal we enjoyed in Zadar. As I recalled, the restaurant was touted as having the best hamburgers in Croatia. How could Americans resist such a challenge? Its other real draw was its location. The Harbor Cookhouse and Club is located across a pedestrian bridge from the Old City right on the Adriatic near a fine marina.
Better yet, the bridge is lit at night and there are amazing lights on the walls and buildings of the Old City. So as we sat to enjoy the truly delicious food, we looked out on an outstanding view. Deep blue Adriatic waters, a nearly full moon pouring down its silvery beams, the twinkling lights of the pedestrian bridge with its constant foot traffic, the pretty boats in the marina. The weather was perfect with balmy breezes making that walk to and fro so enjoyable. Were they the best burgers ever? Who can really judge when the treats for the eyes overwhelmed the sense of taste. But they were certainly worthy and the Harbor Cookhouse was very special.
After a full meal, Lois returns to the old town through the pedestrian bridge.
An unsolved mystery in Zadar is the imposing but much deteriorated “TOWER OF SHAME” which stands at a corner of the old Roman Forum.
It’s difficult to find a credible description of the history or purpose of this obelisk. Is it Roman or something stolen from the Greeks or Egyptians? No one seems to have the definite answer. There is no plaque naming the tower. It’s quite weather-worn and time-bitten. But asking a local produces only a shoulder shrug nor could we find anything credible in the brochures about the Forum and the St. Donatus Church.
We followed this nun around the corner passed the remains of an original Roman wall to the Saint Elias Eastern Orthodox Church. It was not open to visitors at the time.
KRKA NATIONAL PARK
Leaving the grandeur of Zadar, we speculated about what could even meet its wonders! But we obviously temporarily forgot the glories of nature herself. Our next stop was in this national park which is one of the most beautiful I have ever visited. The park covers 42 square miles and is the creation of the KrKa River which runs through and over the karst formations in the area forming tumultuous and glorious waterfalls and plunge pools of the clearest green waters ever!
Karst is limestone that has settled out of the water and creates formations that attracts travertine forming organisms. Travertine rarely produces waterfalls so the river in KrKa is the exception to that rule. There is very little elevation in the park so all the waterfalls are the product of travertine barriers to water flow resulting in beautiful and fulsome waterfalls.
Over 2200 plant species have been identified in the park and many reptiles and amphibians call this watery world home as well. It is important for bird migration and is a stopover for many species on their trips north and south.
The park is well organized for visitors. There is a well-made wooden boardwalk that takes walkers all around the park. In addition, there are free buses that pick up and drop off visitors who want to move to different entry points or to get back to the main parking areas and entries into the park. There are also places to buy sandwiches and drinks. The walk is advertised as taking about 2 hours but that of course depends on your own interests: photography, spotting birds and other creatures. We took a good deal longer to enjoy the complete walk.
“Game of Thorns” connection: the park was once a waterworks development with dams and water wheels to produce electricity. It no longer functions that way but there are remnants of the machinery and sites connected with that purpose. One of the areas with a big waterwheel was evidently used as a background for one scene in the series.
TROGIR
Another Croatian city rich in history and the legacy of so many different civilizations. Because of its 400 years of Venetian rule there is a substantia tradition of architecture to seen here. So excellent that UNESCO has declared the whole city a World Heritage Site. The city has a 2300 year history of urban tradition beginning with the 3rd Century BC occupation by the Greeks. Of course, then marched in the Romans. In between the Romans and the Venetians were the Saracens, the Byzantines and the Habsburgs. All left their marks on this lovely city which is on a tiny island separated from the mainland by a very narrow body of water and crossed by a short bridge which was so tiny it took us a couple of walks across it to realize that the Old City is an island!
THE HOTEL MONIKA where we stayed was another of the heritage types. No modern conveniences that would have required any alteration of the old city walls or structures. Nonetheless, we enjoyed the stay and found the way of getting to the front door amusing. We had to call the front desk when we arrived so they could tell us where we would be able to park the car. No cars in the inner Old Town where the hotel is situated. We were then to get our luggage together and walk from the carpark area to the intersection with the street and that little bridge where hotel staff would meet us. We brought the luggage to the staff and then we followed them through the maze of streets that would finally arrive at the hotel. It felt like we were walking through an Arab Souk in Morocco so convoluted was the way. We speculated on whether we would ever find our way back to the hotel once we left it to go exploring. Kamerlengo Castle & St. Mark’s Tower
KAMERLENGO CASTLE AND ST. MARK’S TOWER, facing the sea, are the most imposing structures of the old city. Both were built by the Venetians in 1430 and show typical Renaissance construction and decorations. The Venetian Governor occupied part of the castle as his residence. The rest of the
structure was a typical fort with barracks for soldiers, armory, parade ground, and battlements. The tower was added shortly after the completion of the castle
. City View from the top of the Castle
St. Mark’s Tower
We visited the central square, JOHN PAUL II SQUARE, of the city several times. The picture below shows three sides of the square. The fourth side is taken up by the cathedral.
CATHEDRAL OF ST. LAWRENCE
Inside the city stands another imposing structure, The Cathedral of St. Lawrence. This building was erected on the site of a previous early Christian church destroyed by the Saracens during their occupation. Construction started in 1193 but took many decades to be completed, due to all the incursions from other civilizations. Through the intervening years, many artists and traditions have contributed to the styles exhibited inside and outside the edifice. The major style now is Romanesque-Gothic and the inside is different because it has three naves. Kay and Micki decided to climb the 154 feet Bell Tower because it would offer such an encompassing view of the whole city. They started up and got about 2/3 of the way when they were completely blocked by a group of Chinese ladies who were busy taking selfies (and they hadn’t even reached the top yet) and they showed no inclination to move. The very narrow spiral staircase did not allow for passing other folks, so they were stymied in their intention to see the city from above.
After we got home and started watching Game of Thrones, we realized that Trogir’s Church of San Sebastian was the setting for one of the important sites in the movie: the city Qarth.
View from the Top of the Tower
Though we did not know this then either, the big John Paul II Square in the city is bordered by a building which had been a monastery: also a Game of Thrones site.
The gigantic fish market is located in this area as well; however, we did not see that in Game of Thrones. But we got to the market a little later than most customers wanting the freshest seafood would have arrived. That meant the supplies were much smaller than they would have been. But we could still see that the variety of seafood on offer is very large. As usual you can find the fish market by your nose before you actually see it.
SACRED ART MUSEUM AND ST. SABASTIAN CHURCH WITH CLOCK TOWER
NEUM, BOSNIA
As we drove from Trogir down to Dubrovnik we crossed into Bosnia for 9 miles. This miniature chunk of coastline divides Croatia in half separating the Dubrovnik area from the rest of the country. We actually had to pass through Bosnian and Croatian border controls. Oh yes, going both ways. So we stopped at an outdoor restaurant in this small town and had a delicious lunch and now can say we have been in Bosnia. True, we have to admit that Bosnia’s miniature coastline is every bit as spectacular as Croatia’s.
Afterwe leftBosnia to continue driving the main highway towards Dubrovnik, we passed the steepest vineyards we had ever seen. We were told later that these grapes have to be harvested by hand and with donkeys because no mechanical means can be used in this kind of terrain. Certainly made for lovely vistas.
Further along we passed the village of Ston which we later learned was one of the sites used in Game of Thrones for Kings Landing. That wall running uphill was very dramatic and hard to miss in the show.
DUBROVNIK
If only we had done more research on this wonderful city before we visited. Because we hadn’t, we had no idea of what we were missing in the old town which we never entered at all. It is an old and important city in Croatia’s history but that escaped our notice. We also learned that many important scenes in Game of Thrones were filmed there. But why not? Such a beautiful setting and lots of historical buildings to use for background shots. Maybe we really need to consider another trip to this fantastically beautiful country.
What we did see was the dramatic and gorgeous Adriatic coastline that borders the tourist area of Dubrovnik. We stayed in a well-situated condo overlooking the beaches. The condo was comfortable and attractive but nothistorical. The day was bright and cloudless, the sea sparkled in many different shades of blue, and the temperatures were warm but not hot. We found a friendly local restaurant for our supper and it was delicious and convenient since we were wanting to walk a bit after a long car drive to reach the area. Perhaps we needed down time because we had all been very active during the weeks before we even reached Croatia and certainly very busy here in Croatia.
SPLIT
The second of my favorite Croatia cities Split is overwhelming in its lengthy history, its beauty and the verve everywhere as we walked the narrow streets and alleyways. So many wonderful restaurants, it was hard to choose which one to patronize. We wanted to see the ancient buildings in every kind of light bright day and night and moonlight. Unfortunately, we had quite a bit of rain while there but we did not let a little moisture prevent our explorations. Perhaps the gray and thicker light gave us yet another perspective on these glowing scenes.
There are four ancient gates leading into Diocletian’s walled palace complex. The Iron Gate on the west side - the Silver Gate on the east - the Golden Gate on the south and the Brass Gate on the north. When we walked thru the Golden Gate, we followed in the footsteps of Emperor Diocletian who walked through it as he entered the Palace on the 1st of June 305 AD.
THE GOLDEN GATE
Just outside the Golden Gate is the Giardin Garden with its huge STATUE OF GREGORY OF NIN—another of those statues that seem to compel folks to rub its toe or boot for good luck.
While we were in this garden during the daytime, a movie was being filmed. It appeared to be some sort of Western since the actors were wearing Stetsons and holsters. We could not see the whole garden because of this shooting. At the entrance on either side of the Golden Gate were horse statues. Their bodies appeared only from the mid-thorax up to the head and rearing front legs. They were beautifully done and we thought they had been there for a while. We were soon disabused of this idea when we looked at pictures of the Golden Gate taken at other times: there were no horses on pedestals in those photographs. So perhaps the horses were there for the movie set?
THE IRON GATE was the one closest to our hotel so we went through it both ways many times. I nicknamed it the Bathtub Gate because of its appearance.
Just in front of the Iron Gate largest public square of the city, THE PEOPLE’S SQUARE.
THE BRASS GATE has an interesting history in that at the time of its construction, it was much closer to the sea or maybe it’s more accurate to say that the Adriatic was closer to Split. Boats could go through it on their way to the Palace complex. Time and land-reclamation have created a huge seaside plaza in front of this gate now. It is a very pleasant walkway with lots of shops and benches and even a hotel providing interest to walkers.
There is a large taxi stand there as well and Kay and I hired one to take us up to the highest point (584 feet) in the city for a good view overlooking the city and the surrounding islands. The area is called MARJAN HILL and the view did not disappoint except that it was cold and rainy when we arrived at the top. We were relieved that we had hired the cab though because the way up was twistyturny, steep and very confusing even on the paper map we had.
View from Marjan Hill in a Windstorm
The Silver Gate
THE SILVER GATE was closed from the Middles Ages until 1952 because of its deterioration and damage during wars. It opened in l952 when restoration was complete. In 2000 Pope John Paul II walked through its portal. Tourists today can be filled with amazement if they realize that the pavement under their feet here at the Silver Gate is the original ancient one that the Romans and their followers trod.
It was originally built in 1217 but was partially destroyed in one of the many wars Split endured over the centuries. From 1666 to 1682, it was rebuilt in Baroque style. It was further damaged in 1932 and restored once again. The it was partially destroyed again during World War II. Yet here it stands. Most surprising is the fact that so many of the paintings, decorations, statues, relics have also survived. The Church is definitely worth a look if for no other reason than to look upon something so persistent.
Outside the Silver Gate - Church of the Dominican Monastery of St. Catherine.
Our hotel here in Split was a heritage site which meant no elevators or other modern amenities could be used in the renovations because the ancient walls and stones cannot be disturbed.
Our room was one of only three in this particularly well-situated property. We were in easy walking distance of anything we wanted to visit. We were on the top floor (the third) reached by a narrow wooden stairway so we got plenty of exercise as we left and returned from the hotel. The lobby/reception area was so tiny it barely held a podium for the staff. Behind it was a compact breakfast area with three tables. To reach it from the minuscule lobby area, we had to walk across a square of Plexiglas which was installed so that we could see down a couple of stories where a huge stone protruded from an old Roman wall. Since Split is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the hotel owners were not allowed to remove any part of that structure. And it’s very strange to realize that you are walking above a wall constructed by the Romans in the 3rd Century BC What a dramatic preview of the glories we were to see as we explored the 3rd Century ruins of Diocletian’s vast palace complex.
This Roman palace is difficult to encompass in words because it is so overwhelming in its antiquity, beauty and longevity. The Old Town of Split is built within its huge walls and the same wonderful shiny rectangular paving stones as in Zadar lead everywhere and through all the gates (except the Silver Gate) into the city. They are things of beauty themselves and were not nearly as slick as we feared when we scurried around in the rains and drizzles. Needless to say, Split was also used in Game of Thrones often though we did not know that at the time of our visit. There is even a special shop in the city center that sells all kinds of GOT memorabilia.The Roman Emperor Diocletian built his palace complex starting in 305 AD It was once home to thousands of people and today there remain more than 200 buildings from that era. Today within its white stone walls and under its courtyard are a cathedral, numerous shops, restaurants, bars, cafes, hotels and even some private houses.
Here is the heart of the old town of Split - the central courtyard, the peristyle of Diocletian's Palace.
THECHURCHOFST.ROCHE is on the far left of the photo at the northern end of the Peristyle. It was erected built in 1516 and dedicated to Saint Roko a 14th century saint whose protection was sought against the great plague. The church has been deconsecrated and is now Tourist Information Center.
CATHEDRAL OF ST.DOMNIUS
TheChurch of St.Roche(Roko)
The former Temple of Jupiter (behind the columns on the left) was transformed into a Church honoring the Virgin Mary and later morphed into the Cathedral of St. Domnius now recognized as the patron saint of the Split. Before that, Diocletian built a tremendous mausoleum under the church for the eventual resting place for his body. So it remained until after his death. Unfortunately, in the latter years of his life, he began persecuting the Christians which he had formerly accepted in his city. When the Christians gained control of Split, Diocletian’s body was removed from the mausoleum and the bodies of the Christian martyrs were taken from their former graves and placed there. Some sort of justice and irony as well. The cathedral interior is surprisingly small.
At the entrance off the peristyle is a statue of a sphinx stolen from 3500 BC stolen from Egypt for the palace in the 4th century. And one either side of the front door, two 5th century marble lions guard the entrance.
Another remnant of Diocletian’s palace is the Vestibule. It lies at the south end of the square. The entrance at the far end of the peristyle (see previous panorama) appears square from the plaza but on entering the greeting hall beyond the door, you are in a circular structure with a hole to the sky above.
Here, the Emperor received guests, dignitaries, ambassadors and emissaries from Rome. Today is it often the scene of impromptu musical performances or readings and speeches.
By descending the staircase under the Vestibule, locals and tourists encounter a different level of commerce now.
Here’s where the dragons were chained up in “Game of Thrones”. In front of the Cathedral on the square are restaurants and other businesses.
We discovered that in the evenings musicians come to play. Restaurants put pillows on the marble steps leading up to their inside tables for people to sit on while they
order food and drink and sit outside under the stars listening to the music. Very pleasant and accommodating. We enjoyed a concert ourselves one evening when it wasn’t raining.
We did not sit on the pillows because we did not order any comestibles. But there were plenty of places to sit anyway—even if less comfortable than the plush seats. Games of Thrones trivia connection: beneath the Peristyle is where Daenerys (Mother of dragons) kept her “pets” when they grew up.
Split like so many other Mediterranean cities shares that amazing checkerboard of many civilizations, conquests, changes of power both religious and political.
The Greeks founded the city in the 3-4th centuries, BC Then came the Roman Empire, the Byzantines after the fall of Western Rome, then Venice, and after that came Napoleon and the French Empire, next the Austro-Hungarian Empire until the end of the First World War in 1918, then a Yugoslavian regime, and the Italians during World War II, and then when the Italians were defeated came the Germans.
At the end of World War II, Yugoslavia again reformed itself and became a communist state under Marshall Tito. When Tito died, Croatia itself seceded from Yugoslavia and finally became an independent country.
Of course Split endured all these changes as did the rest of the country. Split was a wonderful place to end our explorations of Charming Croatia. We left with some reluctance but with lovely memories of our visit here. Perhaps this short taste of this country will lure us back again for longer explorations.
CONCLUSION
Croatia is an amazing destination for anyone interested in ancient history, beautiful scenery, wonderful national parks, delicious cuisine, friendly people who speak English because they must begin to study our language from Grade 3 onwards. The infrastructure for travelling is excellent. Roads are modern, in good repair, clearly marked and easy for foreigners to navigate. All the hotels we used were clean, well-appointed, filled with modern amenities like Wi-Fi and in good locations relative to sightseeing. Restaurants were clean and the menus varied. Italian flavors and dishes were easy to find, but we had to search a bit to find restaurants that served what could be called traditional Croatian cuisine. Nonetheless, we did find a few.
So put Croatia, not just on your bucket list, but on your “must see now” one. If you are a “Game of Thrones” fan, you have an added reason for a visit. And don’t forget to sample the gelato flavor strachiatella! Really tasty.
