Forging a Natural Masterpiece

Kirsty Watermeyer explores the wonders and magnitude of the Fish River Canyon and the surprising research and conservation initiatives blooming in this soulful, dramatic place.

There is a symphony that was written between water and rock millions of years ago. Carved into the depths of this land, canyons provide a look into the geological epic that unfolded, a view of the history of Earth and a mesmerising tapestry that showcases the enduring journey this landscape embarked on through the ages. Easily one of Africa’s most impressive geological formations is the Fish River Canyon. It is my first time visiting the canyon, and I am doing so in style, staying at the striking Fish River Lodge that boasts rooms on the western brim of the canyon, far away from the crowds that flock to Namibia’s second-largest tourist attraction.

As we arrive, I am taken aback by how much this land looks like the far northwest of Namibia – plateaued mountains, a plethora of rocks as far as the eye can see and euphorbia plants dotting the landscape. I have a deep love for the northwest of Namibia, and I feel I am about to fall for this corner of the country too. It is barren but soulful, changing but the same.

Can a pile of rocks be so alive? Their changing colours, metamorphosed through a kaleidoscope of shades as the sun rises and falls through the sky, would suggest so. Looking at these rocks up close, you will see what seem to be brush strokes of colour and the use of the full palette.

Then there is the canyon, with its sheer size and the play of light and shadow on its rocks creating a visual spectacle. As sunlight dances upon the canyon walls, layer upon layer is revealed, telling the story of a persistent passage of time. Here you get to look at records of ancient life on Earth. According to our guide and geological expert, Wilhelm, the Fish River Canyon originated millions of years ago in a shallow sea. He explains that the sea dried around 550 million years ago and that a tectonic event activated faults which started the forming of a rift valley. Then the breakup of the supercontinent of Gondwana, which saw South America and Africa drift apart about 120 million years ago, cut water into the metamorphic rocks below, and the rest, quite literally, is history.

Staying at the Fish River Lodge, on the virtual edge of the canyon (the only lodge to boast this unique experience), one can marvel at the passing display all day long. What is more, you can do so from the convenience of your plush bed, or one of the sun loungers on the wrap-around deck. The decor is eclectic, but underscored by natural items such as stone tables, weaved baskets and ostrich egg chandeliers.

The Fish River Canyon’s busy season is winter, meaning most visitors are here when it is cold, but this does not matter when the helpful staff bring snug hot-water bottles to your bed for a blissful night’s rest. Evenings are spent around cosy indoor fireplaces where visitors congregate and become friends drawn to one another by their shared interests in geology, luxury, beauty, or adventure. Take your pick, you are visiting this slice of heaven for one or more of the above.

If it is adventure you are after, Fish River Lodge offers a luxurious version of canyon hiking where all you have to focus on are the steps you take. Accompanied by a knowledgeable guide, you descend into the canyon each morning, marvelling at the surroundings while carrying only your water with you. In the evening you ascend the canyon to return to the comfort of a warm bed, your luggage and an incredible three-course meal – a real reward after a day of traverse trekking.

While there, I sat down with co-owners Len and Karen le Roux, who have recently retired but still live on the property – a retirement location that would make most people green with envy. Len explains that they are about to add cycling to their activities on offer. This means that, much like the luxurious hiking which you can do through the lodge, you can now tour the canyon on an e-bike, cycling during the day and enjoying a tasty meal and comfortable bed afterwards.

Len boasts that Karen was the brain behind the beautification of the lodge. She worked closely with the architect to perfect every corner. Len also imparts information about the research being conducted here, which is fascinating because it has hardly been done until now, and what is being revealed is providing new insights into the area.

“We have 54,000 hectares of land here,” explains Len. “It will soon be designated as the Fish River Canyon National Park.” He goes on to say that, in collaboration with two neighbouring properties, they have removed all the fences, opened up the land and established a corridor connecting two sections of the park. “Our main goal is to rehabilitate the land for conservation,” he adds. “We’re working to restore it after its previous use for farming and to reintroduce wildlife. But first we need to understand the current wildlife population in the area.”

The combination of natural beauty, tranquillity, conservation efforts and adventure at Fish River Lodge is captivating. The haunting echoes of the carved canyons and the geological masterpiece create an awe-inspiring backdrop. The luxurious retreat along the canyon wall provides the perfect setting. The staff is friendly and the food exceptional. The stunning views and overall allure of this unique place make it impossible not to be enchanted by this extraordinary edge of eternity.

- Kirsty Watermeyer

First published in the Spring 2024 issue of Travel Namibia magazine. Subscribe to Travel Namibia here: www.travelnewsnamibia.zinioapps.com/shop

Fish River Lodge is managed by Journeys Namibia who manage an exclusive portfolio of extraordinary destinations. To book your stay at Fish River Lodge send an email to res2@journeysnamibia.com