5 minute read
The spirit of the dragon and this thing called life.
While Namibia is best known for its wide-open spaces, the country is also a paradise for cavers who explore its darkest depths, especially the ones that some adventurers find irresistible. Even the well-known Otjikoto Lake near Tsumeb is nothing but a large cave with a missing roof.
The unique and colourful fish species that occur in Otjikoto and its sister lake Guinas are well documented. Close inspection reveals the interesting dwarf bream, Pseudocrenolabrus philander dispersus, a fish that breeds outside the nest, while the female carries the eggs around in her mouth.
Lesser known are the unique life forms found in the cave system known as Dragon’s Breath, and the fact that one of its caverns houses the world’s largest underwater lake. Situated 46km northwest of Grootfontein lies a subterranean geological wonderland 60 metres below ground which can only be reached via a tiny ladder to reveal a rock formation that mysteriously hides a lake with a surface area of almost 2 hectares.
Dragon’s Breath was discovered in 1986 during a spelaeology expedition aimed at finding caves in the environs of the Otavi Mountains. The entomologist John Irish was part of the team, and it is with him that I visited the cave. We reached the first chamber by means of a small ladder. I knew from the outset that the purpose of the visit was not to try and climb down to the lake itself, as this is best left to specialised diving teams. The sole purpose of my visit was to experience personally why the cave had been given its dramatic name.
My first question was how the scientists had known from the outset where to search for a cave in this extensive landscape. John explained that the dolomite had been eroded by water over countless years and that these telltale signs usually indicated a cave or sinkhole lower down, as is the case with the Dragon’s Breath Cave.
Unlike most readers of this article – who are unlikely to ever make it as far down as the actual lake – John will invariably meet a couple of “old friends” there when he climbs down. He describes a unique life form found there as a small prawn, Trogloleleupia dracospiritus, which is endemic to this cave. Its Latin name dracospiritus means “the spirit of the dragon”. This small amphipod, like most of the other life forms there, survives on bat droppings that filter down to the bottom of the lake. Indeed, apart from the country’s astounding geology, this might be the real contribution of Namibia’s caves to the world of natural sciences. Moreover, there is still a host of life around there, much of which is yet to be recorded.
John accompanied me while I was climbing down from the first chamber and took a small step down from the passage. After turning slightly I continued and then stopped. At this point the visitor reaches a round rock in the middle of the passage, and encounters the “breath” flowing out on the other side, which can best be described as a small hole between two rocks that is already visible from the first chamber.
The so-called dragon’s breath is literally a warm, humid breeze that rises from the lake. It strikes you without warning as you peer over the round rock. The hole through which the humid air is forced is the lip of a precipice in the roof of the lake chamber. Basking in the uniqueness of the moment, it struck me once again how unbelievable it was that halfway between Tsumeb and Grootfontein this awesome body of water, which is tipped to be the largest subterranean lake in the world, can be viewed.
It was equally interesting when John pointed out that in 1986 the first-ever exploration team had included several female adventurers who, due to their smaller body frame, were required to wiggle their way through the access chamber down to the lake. With water security on the lips of so many people these days, time will tell how the water in this lake will increasingly come into focus, not only as a tourist attraction but also in terms of how the water can be conserved and at the same time used responsibly.
Journals in the Namibian Scientific Society archives indicate that in as early as 1970 a vision for the conservation of Namibia’s water resources was verbalised by the then Director of Water Affairs, MC Myburgh. He described water as an economic necessity, one that should be managed by Namibia’s government as a precious resource. He emphasised that equal access to such water should be given to all people as opposed to any one individual owning it.
On a more esoteric note: my visit to the lake left me with a prevailing sense that this enchanting world should remain untouched. That it should be conserved as something with an intrinsic value that we can hold in the chambers of our hearts as an unuttered prayer, a marvel that is forever present but remains invisible. When interviewed, the controversial South African sangoma, Credo Mutwa, once referred to these spiritual spaces as places “where a greater mystery speaks to us from the shadows.”
The last words about the peaceful, undisturbed world beyond the lip of the cave go to John: “The lasting impression of Dragon’s Breath is one of a huge but largely lifeless lake, which, in a few barely hospitable corners, harbours an unlikely community of animals that is utterly dependent upon a very precarious food source against remarkable odds. Even the most jaded biologist will realise anew just how wonderfully tenacious this thing called Life really is.”
To experience Dragon's Breath contact Dantica Diving at chris@danticadiving.com
