14 minute read
PHOTOGRAPHY FEATURE
Tolis Fragoudis is a Greek-Swiss photographer, filmmaker and keynote speaker based in Zurich, Switzerland. He runs his own production company, TolisArt, working as a creative director for international companies, sports events, tourism and corporate clients. His biggest passion is storytelling, and he travels the world to explore the beauty of culture, nature and humans. His documentary Spiritual India is a deep and emotional look at Indian culture, but he has also produced other works while travelling through Nepal, Mexico, Greece, Italy, Switzerland, Norway and, more recently, Namibia. He firmly believes that humans naturally do not want to destroy beautiful things and he considers it his duty to inspire others to become conscious about how we treat this world. Photography and filmmaking are very strong instruments, and when used in the right way, they can contribute towards a better world. Tolis says: “If people flower from within, they clearly understand how they are connected to everything.”
Tolis spent almost a month in Namibia with his girlfriend, Regine, and used the opportunity to put his new Sony equipment to the test. He also did some location scouting with the idea to discover Namibia’s potential as a destination for photo tours. These are images from his trip.
Tolis Fragoudis
Discover Namibia with Ondili
Desert Homestead Lodge
Kalahari Red Dunes Lodge
KALAHARI
With its rolling red dunes and scattered camel thorn trees, the Kalahari Desert is the younger of Namibia’s two deserts. It stretches across Namibia, Botswana and South Africa over an estimated area of 900 000 km². It is regarded as the traditional homeland of the indigenous San people, the country’s oldest inhabitants, famous for their hunter-gatherer way of life.
The best way to truly feel the intense nature experience that the Kalahari offers is to go on a guided overnight Trans Kalahari Walk. Feel the connection with the earth as you watch from atop a dune how antelope herds graze on the vast grassy plains. After the day’s rewarding hike, enjoy a night by campfire under the glittering stars at the cosy but luxurious dune camp.
Experience the magic of the Kalahari with a stay at Kalahari Red Dunes Lodge or Teufelskrallen Tented Lodge. Teufelskrallen’s tent houses are located on the first western Kalahari dune and offer guests a panoramic view over the endless expanse of the Kalahari’s dunes. Only 200 km from the capital Windhoek, Kalahari Red Dunes Lodge is a quaint lodge with individually and lovingly designed guestrooms that offer guests the true sense of the space and beauty of the Kalahari Desert.
NAMIB
The world’s oldest desert at an estimated 55 million years old, the Namib is a place that enchants visitors from all over. It is world-famous for the picturesque Deadvlei with its bleached clay pan, ancient dead camel thorn trees and massive orange dunes that surround it. The Namib Sand Sea, boasting several dunes higher than 300 metres, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2013.
Become intimately acquainted with the Namib and its incredible fauna and flora by going on a sleep-out ride on the stunning, Ondili owned, private nature reserve adjacent to the Namib-Naukluft National Park. Explore this incredibly scenic section of the Namib from the back of a horse. After the ride, a simple yet luxurious tented camp awaits – the ideal setting for a delightful night spent under a star-lit desert sky.
Desert Homestead Lodge is famous for its horse safaris and is the perfect starting point for tours into Sossusvlei and its surroundings. Experience the tranquillity and expanse of the desert landscape in the utmost luxury and style at Desert Homestead Outpost.
ERONGO
The Erongo Mountains form part of one of the most impressive areas in the country. The landscape is characterised by 2000-metre-high mountains of volcanic origin and rivers that carry water all year round, offering breath-taking panoramic views. The spectacular geological formations like the Boulder Forest as well as excellent birding and game watching opportunities make this area an excellent choice for nature lovers.
Embrace the wonders of this area with an Erongo Nature Excursion. After a short drive, a guided hike leads guests to the most interesting landscape of the farm, characterised by spectacular rock formations and fascinating vegetation. On the hike, guests learn about the geological highlights of the Erongo mountains, the semi-precious stones such as tourmaline and aquamarine that are mined here as well as the ancient San rock paintings found in the area.
Hohenstein Lodge is located at the foot of the highest peak of the Erongo mountains. The evenings here are known for spectacular sunsets that bathe the mountain in a fantastic red glow. The view over the vast landscape extends as far as the Spitzkoppe peak, protruding as a prominent relief from the plain.
Erongo Nature Excursion
DAMARALAND
Situated in the northwest of Namibia, Damaraland is known for its definitive landscapes. The area offers numerous places worth visiting that range from viewing desert-adapted wildlife to learning more about the past, present and ancient cultural heritage of the area.
Visit Twyfelfontein, where guests can see the UNESCO World Heritage Site of over 2000 rock engravings and drawings. These graphic representations are thousands of years old and allow a glimpse into the lives of the people who inhabited this area centuries ago.
Go on a game drive into the dry Huab River and search for the impressive desert-adapted elephants and other game. Guests will not only learn more about the amazing animals and plants that inhabit the area but also about the interesting geological features.
Twyfelfontein Adventure Camp is nestled in rolling boulders of a granite outcrop, perfectly located only a ten-minute drive from Twyfelfontein Rock Engravings, within walking distance of the Damara Living Museum and in the Huab River Valley. A stylish and extremely comfortable tented camp from where Damaraland can be explored. Twyfelfontein Adventure Camp
ETOSHA
Etosha National Park is Namibia’s greatest wildlife sanctuary and the most visited destination in Namibia besides Sossusvlei. The park derives its name from the massive 4 730 km² Etosha salt pan. It is so large it can be seen from space and is one of the largest pans on earth. The park is a hotspot for a variety of game – anything from rhino and elephant to lions and leopards.
Take a guided drive into the park in an all-terrain vehicle with one of Ondili’s expert guides. Ondili’s guides have an intimate knowledge of the wildlife in Etosha and will give guests the ultimate safari experience, getting close to elephants and rhinos, giraffes and lions, meerkats and flamingos.
Situated on a 5000-hectare game reserve that shares a 10 km border with the Etosha, Etosha Oberland Lodge combines luxury and style with the utmost privacy. Enjoy the exquisite dining experience, relax by the infinity pool or sip on a drink while spotting game at one of the many private seating spots. TNN
Etosha Oberland Lodge
Damaraland
this time from the ground
Text & Photographs Sandra Windisch
Before joining the corporate airline world, my husband and I did bush flying for 12 years in Namibia, Angola and Botswana. Now that our girls turned six and seven, we were ready to explore Damaraland differently this time – from the ground with our Amarok and camping trailer.
We were eager to show the girls where Mom and Dad spent a lot of time in their younger days, landing on hard-to-find runways with no windsocks and looking more like old jeep tracks, if anything.
Routing the trip was easy: limited hours spent travelling per day, a nice pool for the girls every other day and as many backroads as possible. We decided to take a satellite phone along to put friends and family somewhat at ease, because even when able to reach the outside world quickly, help would still be days away.
Starting from our home in Swakopmund, we headed for our first stop, the Brandberg White Lady Lodge for two nights. We set up camp under huge old acacia trees right next to the river. Driving up the Ugab River we did not see any elephants, but we did see a black cape cobra catch a puffadder. Well, hubby and kids did. I looked the other way.
Day 3 brought us to Palmwag campsite, our base for the next two nights. Our campsite had a lovely view over the red hills of Damaraland and the spring in front of the lodge. The girls found two cats and soon the four of them were inseparable, going everywhere together.
On day 5 we were geared for no reception and headed into the rough and rugged landscapes of the Palmwag Concession. This is true wilderness – a protected area that covers 550 000 hectares – and is home to, amongst others, endangered black rhino and elephants.
This was our longest day, in every way. We travelled 90 km in 6 hours. The girls were troopers, never complaining, instead counting zebras and giraffes and dressing up their Barbie dolls. We entered the Palmwag Concession at the northernmost gate and stopped at C5 that evening, on a hill overlooking a valley of red stones, with the well-known tabletops in the distance.
Day 6 took us past lovely green grass fields from the rain two weeks earlier. We saw herds of animals and lots of Welwitschias. We decided to go west into the mighty Hoanib River and after a few kilometres, we saw two giraffes and elephant bulls. That night we camped in the Obias Valley under a huge cliff. Perfect for the girls to climb, and for us to have shade.
On day 7 we had plenty of elephant sightings. On the way back to camp we came across a Land Cruiser with a young Swiss couple, also on their own. When asked how they ended up in this part of the world, they answered: “You can only do Etosha once.”
During that night, a very hot and dry wind was blowing and it was impossible to fall asleep. I did for a split second think back of all the grand lodges, equipped with fans and aircons, where we used to stay as pilots. But you were always alone. To be able to be in nature with my own little tribe seemed like first prize, even with the hot wind blowing right onto my face.
On day 9 the Kaokoveld was calling. Up the Obias Valley, we discovered beautiful grass fields and large open plains. When I asked our eldest what she missed most from home, she said her beagles. Her younger sibling answered: the internet. (Somewhere our parenting derailed…) If hubby was not checking out the solar panels, he was busy getting the tent ready, helping the girls make a fire, pouring me a G&T, or making sure his tribe was safe and happy. Falling asleep that night, I made a mental note: married to the best husband ever!
On day 12 we stayed at Ongongo Waterfall Campsite with its crystal-blue spring and a beautiful waterfall.
Next, we headed to the Twyfelfontein area, staying at Malansrus, an absolute highlight. For once we did not have to set up camp. In fact, we were lounging around the sparkling pool with cold G&Ts by lunchtime. Feeling a bit guilty, but also not.
readers storyAt Puros Wild we were blown away by the large old shadowy trees, clean campsites and ablutions built into the trees and shrubs. We took a short drive down our old runway. Fortunately, this was now closed after a few incidents. Later back at camp, Rainer was fixing solar panels so I took the girls for a river drive and showed them the Himba village I had remembered. It was so good to teach them about the culture – we love bringing all-things-different to our girls. We spent the last two nights at Madisa Camp, unpacking everything one final time, climbing hills and driving up dry riverbeds while enjoying the boulders and the views from the top.
We packed for a nice day outing on day 10. We drove west into the Hoarusib and just had all the chairs out and ready for brunch at the Hoarusib Poort, when Rainer discovered fresh lion tracks. The kids had just jumped into the water, but we hastily packed up and drove further west, making our way to the sandcastles. These clay castles are thousands of years old. Sand and water were blown into the gorges, held back by dunes. Small lakes formed and, layer by layer, structures looking like castles appeared.
Day 14 we were heading home, a little sad but also looking forward to a hot shower and no camp setup. This trip bonded us close-knits even closer, and we discovered another fact: it will always, always be Africa for us! TNN
ESSENTIALS:
Board games, satellite phone, more water than you think, ice!
Send your Namibian adventure story to info@travelnewsnamibia.com
Eningu Clayhouse Lodge
There are few places in the world where one has the joy of waking up to no other sound than guinea fowl and francolins scurrying about. With coffee in hand, taking a few steps on bare feet in the softest red Kalahari sand to the edge of the garden. Faint pink sky announces the rising sun and thorn trees decorated in the most delicate spring blossoms like soft yellow cotton balls abound for as far as the eye can see.
Isn’t that why we need to escape? For our senses to be soothed by the subtle beauty of natural colours and sounds? To be in a place where we can turn our backs just for a little while on everything man-made and walk into the bush? Walk along a sandy path and imagine oneself being the only person on earth?
And just when you get worried that now you really are lost, there is a fork in the road and an arrow directing you back to the breakfast room.
The very essence of Eningu Clayhouse Lodge is being grounded in the earth from which it is constructed. You are welcomed into the family without infringing on the sense of freedom and of being undisturbed. Enjoy your last or first days in this country of wide open spaces in the quiet comfort of creatively designed interiors and quirky details, complemented by fusion cuisine and an excellent wine collection – all set in the middle of the bush.
To make your stay at Eningu a truly unforgettable experience, visit the art studio and gallery of Namibia’s globally acclaimed sculptor, Dörte Berner. Her sculptures are part of collections on four continents where she has had more than 40 exhibitions in the course of 50 years. The artwork in the garden of Eningu is a mere introduction to what lies ahead when you drive through the gate of Pepperkorrel Farm.
An experience which truly cannot be replicated anywhere on earth. TNN
Tel +264 64 46 4144 info@eningulodge.com www.eningulodge.com
