Canggu: The Changing Face of Bali's Dining Scene

By Nicole Leigh West

Travelers will find no shortage of fascinating luxury travel options on Bali – from the Instagram opportunities to the nature and the cocktails. There was a time when the term ‘Bali belly’ defined this island’s dining scene. Fast forward to today and you’ll find it hard to eat your nasi goreng without doing so in the midst of upmarket restaurant construction. While Seminyak is firmly on every gourmetlover’s radar, it’s rapidly changing Canggu that’s now in the spotlight.

FINE DINING

The Canggu food revolution has certainly embraced fine dining. For a cultural experience among a collection of romantic Indonesian artifacts, dine at the lavish Tugu Bali. One of the first hotels to bring luxury to Canggu; culinary journeys include gourmet picnics on the sand, complete with an 18thcentury antique bed illuminated by oil lanterns.

The menu at Tugu’s Ji Restaurant is the brainchild of a sushi master and the former private chef to David and Victoria Beckham. Chef Nyoman Antara trained in classical Japanese discipline, and Chef Colin Buchan spent years in Gordon Ramsay restaurants and as an executive chef in global, Michelinstarred establishments.

In a reconstructed Kang Xi period temple, choose to dine on Smokey Salmon Zaru Soba, at Ji Bale Sutra. Ji Terrace by the SEA offers 180-degree ocean views, with sensuous, red-themed decor and ancient arts including Balinese Barong heads and Tibetan Mahakala masks. Fine wines, a saké bar, and signature cocktails, like the Smoking’ Coco Sexo, complete the gastronomic adventure.

For a modern luxe vibe, the newest star on Canggu’s dining scene is COMO Uma. Executive chef, Dwayne Cheer, previously headed the kitchen at Soori Bali. He serves up everything from woodfired pizzas to whole snapper on the backdrop of Echo Beach. At the COMO Beach Club, diners recline by the pool on swing chairs to the sounds of acoustic musicians and the crashing surf.

BEACH CLUBS

The beach club scene in Canggu is becoming increasingly glamorous, where dining, drinking and live music are almost secondary to lush surrounds. Overlooking the Berawa surf break, Finns Beach Club has long attracted discerning travelers from across the globe.

Now, its VIP club offers an exclusive hotel-style experience, with poolside daybeds, free-flow Balian water, complimentary refreshments, and spacious change rooms to effortlessly dress from day to night. For a more

casual, yet classy vibe, sink into a beanbag at The Lawn, with views of Batu Bolong Beach. An international grazing menu includes mini lobster brioche and cumin chicken nachos.

Meticulously designed by Gonzalo and Sandra Assiego, Spanish-inspired La Laguna enchants with vintage gypsy caravans, private garden seating, lanterns and boho-chic decor. The sprawling venue serves exquisite tapas and regularly hosts family-friendly events, with themed markets, live music, and movies beneath Bali’s twinkling night skies.