TravelWorld International: Family Travel Nov 2012 by TravelWorld International

2012 | NOVEMBER

Family TRAVEL issue the

TOP FIVE FAVORITE

BALLPARKS TOP 10 PLACES TO

The Playful Side of

MONTEREY

Feed the Animals SPEND CHRISTMAS

In Newport WITH YOUR FAMILY

T H E M A G A Z I N E W R I T T E N B Y N O R T H A M E R I C A N T R AV E L J O U R N A L I S T S A S S O C I AT I O N M E M B E R S

NOV 2012

Family TRAVEL issue the

FEATURES

THE PLAYFUL SIDE OF MONTEREY

RATING THE BALLPARKS

NEWPORT RHODE ISLAND

ANIMAL PLANET WITH GRIFFIN

ON BEYOND VEGAS

Monterey County, California—home of wine-tasting, worldclass golf, vintage car races, and multi-milliondollar views—and not the sort of place to bring the kids. Or is it?

Like people, ballparks come in all shapes, sizes and ages while offering vastly different personalities. Here are the top five fan favorites.

Celebrate the most wonderful time of the year.

On safari with my grandson.

BY ABBY VENTZKE

BY DAN SCHLOSSBERG

BY CAROLE HERDEGEN

BY ANDREA E. MCHUGH

28 TOP TEN PLACES TO FEED THE ANIMALS IN THE U.S. BY SHERRY JACKSON

38 EXCAVATING THE HIDDEN NAPLES PHOTO ESSAY BY S. NATHAN DEPETRIS

Southwestern Utah’s spectacular, relaxing counterpoint to the high-energy glitz of the Vegas Strip. STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY BENNETT W. ROOT, JR.

TravelWorld International Magazine is the only magazine that showcases the member talents of the North American Travel Journalists Association. Group Publisher Publisher Editor Art Direction

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Contributing Columnists

Family TRAVEL issue the

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COLUMNS GAY & LESBIAN

FAMILY

UNIQUE PERSPECTIVE

Three Great Options For Gay Family Vacations

Tips For Surviving A Day At The Theme Park

Syracusa Me

BY MARC KASSOUF

BY FYLLIS HOCKMAN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY S. NATHAN DEPETRIS

HISTORIC

OFF THE BEATEN PATH

Where Giants Dare To Tread

Viva The Other Las Vegas

BY JUDY FLORMAN

BY JOHN M. EDWARDS

DESTINATION INFO

BY DAN CHRISTOPHER

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Volume 2012.3 November 2012. Copyright ©2012 by HMH Media, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Advertising rates and information sent upon request. Acceptance of advertising in TravelWorld International Magazine in no way constitutes approval or endorsement by HMH Media, Inc. or NATJA of products or services advertised. TravelWorld International Magazine and HMH Media, Inc. reserve the right to reject any advertising. Opinions expressed by authors are their own and not necessarily those of TravelWorld International Magazine or HMH Media, Inc. TravelWorld International Magazine reserves the right to edit all contributions for clarity and length, as well as to reject any material submitted. Not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts. This periodical’s name and logo along with the various titles and headings therein, are trademarks of HMH Media, Inc. PRODUCED IN U.S.A. NOV 2012 / TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL

Monterey County, California—home of wine-tasting, world-class golf, vintage car races, and multi-million-dollar views— and not the sort of place to bring the kids. Or is it?

TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / NOV 2012

the playful side of BY ABBY VENTZKE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JERRI HEMSWORTH

Overlooking the paddock at Wild Things early in the morning.

e awoke in the darkness to the sudden fury of a rainstorm unleashed on our tent.

Rain pelted furiously and a strong

WHERE THE

Wild Things Are

wind whipped around us as we snuggled deeper into our warm beds. Later, as the storm abated, the nearby roar of lions signaled the encroaching dawn. With the first rays of sunlight touching the tall, golden grass in our compound, we carried steaming cups of coffee to the overlook to watch the elephants getting their baths while the kids played tag with Fred—the friendly, neighborhood ostrich. Another morning on the Serengeti Plain? Hardly. We were guests of Vision Quest Ranch B&B, and this was another morning in Salinas, California. Scenic Monterey County, California, has long been one of my favorite getaways. My husband and I have been coming here for years, but once we had kids, our go-to list of quaint B&Bs was replaced by hotels with available cribs Sydney and Libby share breakfast with Butch.

and in-room microwaves for heating bottles. Monterey, we thought, was shelved until the kids were off to college. Fast-forward a few years, and our now tween-aged children are perpetually travel-ready and eager for action. With our husbands safely armed with to-do lists and stocked refrigerators, my sister-in-law and I loaded the minivan with snacks, videos and our three daughters for a girls’ weekend road trip and headed up the California coast. We found a lot more than winetasting and art galleries. TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / NOV 2012

ur first destination was Wild Things and Vision Quest Ranch in Salinas. California’s Salinas Valley is perhaps best known as The Salad Bowl of the World—producing more than 80 percent of the world’s lettuce, and as the birthplace of writer John Steinbeck. Wild Things Animal Rental Inc. was launched in 1986 by former police officer, Charlie Summat, as the serendipitous offshoot of his love (and growing collection) of exotic creatures, and the demand of the movie and television industry for trained animals. Summat’s beloved companion, a lion named Josef (known for his roles in George of The Jungle, The Lion King, and many others) was key in Summat’s decision to include an educational component to Wild Things as well as its current transformation into the Monterey Zoological Society. His 51-acre ranch is now home to more than 100 animals, and includes a Safari B&B, an equestrian center, and a boarding

Butch heralds the arrival of breakfast.

Butch pauses for a photo with his fan club.

Still in jammies, the kids are eager to play with Fred.

facility. In 2000, Summat opened Elephants of Africa Rescue Society, or EARS, dedicated to “supporting projects aimed at securing a safe habitat for wild African animals, and dedicated to providing a sanctuary for their captive cousins with a special focus on elephants.” Five African elephants now call Salinas and Vision Quest home: Butch, who stands 10-feet tall at the shoulders, and is buddies with zebra Jasmine, the inseparable BFFs Paula and Kristi, Buffy and little Malika, who suffers from food allergies which have left her quite petite in comparison. We arrived at Vision Quest just in time to take part in the 1 p.m. tour. Zoologist and trainer Kelly Fergusen started off by showing us a short video on the history of Vision Quest Ranch, and the animals that are a part of it. We then set off on a guided tour of the grounds, pausing at each enclosure where Fergusen told us the animal’s name, how it came to be at Vision Quest, and infor-

love elephants—they’re my absolute favorite animals. So when I found out I was going to go with my cousins to Wild Things, a foundation that takes care of wild animals, I couldn’t wait! After a sixhour drive from from Los Angeles, we arrived and soon took a short one-hour tour of the animal compound. We saw monkeys, lynx, tigers, a magnificent lion named Jacob (who we got to feed later), a hysterical hyena named Ed, a cuddly bear named Peanut, a zebra named Jasmine, five massive elephants and a peculiar ostrich named Fred. Once we settled into our cabin, we were visited by two animals. One was a baby bearcat named Doc and an 18-month-old monkey named Gabby. After that we got to put the elephants to bed and feed them carrots. I fed Butch, the biggest elephant. I would give him one carrot, but before he ate it, he would sniff around my hand, asking for another one. The next morning my cousins and I got up early and had races with Fred the ostrich. Personally, my favorite part was when one of the elephants brought us breakfast. Butch walked right up to our porch. We got to pet him and feed him more carrots and sweet potatoes. He was so amazingly big and had the most gentle eyes. I think anyone who likes animals will love Vision Quest Ranch, especially kids, because they will get to see animals close up and feed them. Overall, it was a fantastic experience. —Libby, Age 12

NOV 2012 / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

mation about the breed. For example, Peanut, a small black bear, joined the Vision Quest family after it had been discovered in the backyard of a home in Sacramento. Severely emaciated and unable to survive in the wild, a call to Vision Quest resulted in a new home for Peanut—who got her name from a fondness for the peanut butter sandwiches she ate on the ride to her new digs. Olympic black bears are native to the Pacific Northwest and Northern California, and despite their name, are not necessarily black. Peanut, for example, has a deep, rich chocolate coat, with honey-blonde highlights at her shoulders, befitting the California girl. The kids, Sydney, Libby and Schuyler, animal lovers all, have sadly been restricted by their parents to the more common domestic pets (think dogs, cats and small fish). This

Trainer Kelly Fergusen with Gabby.

WHERE THE

Wild Things Are was heaven. It was the closest they’d ever been to wild animals—far closer than they’d ever been in a zoo, and could discern the fine details unique to each animal. For example, Ed the hyena showed us the bi-directional growth pattern of his fur, which gives him an advantage in running both forward and backward with speed. Fergusen took time to answer each of our questions and we learned far more than we ever had in many trips to zoos throughout California. No small plaques to squint over or large groups of people jockeying for a glimpse of the Bengal tiger hiding behind the shrubbery. At Vision Quest, Bengal brothers Indy and Hobbs eagerly trotted over to Fergusen, rubbing their heads up against her hands as she gave them a scratch behind the ears. The kids were enthralled. Once the tour was concluded, we registered for our overnight stay, received our “room” key, and made our way over to the gated compound where we would spend the night. The kids quickly surveyed the amenities in our twobed tented bungalow, declared them much better than any tent they had ever slept in, and promptly ran outside to survey the surroundings. The trainers regularly take the animals out for walks, and when guests are present, visit and tell us about them. Head trainer Kristy Ingram came first with Doc, a binterong, or Asian bearcat. Six-month-old Doc is a member of the civet family, a rodent-eating carnivore that lives in rainforest trees, hanging from his muscular prehensile tail. Fergusen came next with Gabby, a baboon baby that had been abandoned by its mother in a Reno zoo. Gabby goes home with Fergusen every night, and sleeps in a crate at the foot of her bed, to keep her out of mischief. (Fergusen, TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / NOV 2012

Siberian Lynx, Nadia.

Fergusen with Vision Quest’s motto.

Feeding the big cats.

Indy shows his reach.

Five-month-old Mogsha and Rajny at play.

like many of the other Vision Quest trainers, lives on the premises.) At 4:30 p.m. we made our way down to the heavily gated animal enclosure, where we would begin the night’s festivities by feeding the big cats. A light rain began to fall, gradually becoming heavier, but the inclement weather was quickly forgotten as we got down to business. The big cats are fed Nebraska—not the state, but a specially prepared mix of horse and cow meat. Kristy Ingram placed a small amount of Nebraska on the cement in front of the cage, and the participants pushed it underneath using a large metal rod shaped like the letter L. She also gave each cat special treats of chicken necks as she explained their native hunting and feeding methods. Now this was excitement! The kids repeatedly lined up for their turns at the push rod, lighting their smiles and laughter on a cloudy day. We witnessed firsthand how the hunting styles of each cat influenced its feeding habits. Jacob, the male lion, was impressive in his aggressiveness. He lunged at his food, clawing at the cage and growled at anyone who looked at him. In vivid contrast, Indy, the Bengal, waited patiently, carefully eating his food and neatly licking up any scraps. He gently took his chicken neck treats from the hands of the trainer as gracefully as any house cat. Ingram explained that since lions lived in prides, fighting for their food was ingrained behavior. Catching it was just the beginning—they have to fight off the other pride members in order to eat their fill before the others got their share. In contrast, tigers live a life of solitude. Once they bring down their prey, they are able to eat it more or less at leisure. The grounds surrounding the animal enclosures are surprisingly immaculate and well-maintained, and the requisite, um, animal smells were minimal. I’ve never seen a zoo or animal park this neat and well-cared for. We were escorted on our feeding rounds by Gracie, a Maine Coon cat of the domestic feline variety (and the only cat there actually born in the wild). She was amazingly nonplussed by her much-larger-sized brethren (and they with her), and quite at home with us strangers. It was time to put the elephants to bed. We stepped gratefully into the large, heated elephant barn and shook off the wet, while the trainers began to bring them in. There are three elephant barns (Malika, due to her food allergies, is necessarily separated from the others). Butch came in first. His enormous size is awe-inspiring up close, though we were told he wasn’t particularly large for a male. Best friends Kristi and Paula came in next. Suddenly Paula began trumpeting and stamping, swinging her head from side to side. Kristi looked over anxiously to see what the problem was while the trainers worked to calm the animals. Apparently Gracie had slipped into the barn with us, a slight movement which Paula caught out of the corner of her eye. Elephants NOV 2012 / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

WHERE THE

Wild Things Are are not afraid of cats (nor of mice, as it turns out), but due to their bulk, their ability to whip their heads around to check out small sounds or motions is limited, so they are quick to warn their fellows. Better safe than sorry. The enormous sound and vibration of trumpeting elephants in an enclosed space is simply indescribable. Another treasure. Each stall was filled with a measured amount of hay, and once each elephant was in its stall—trunks raised and foot lifted—they were given a bowl of elephant kibble. Butch and Kristi immediately dumped their bowls out on the floor and began eating. Paula, the grande dame at 45, preferred to eat delicately out of her bowl, only dumping out the contents as it got low. Even then she carefully gathered the kibble into a small pile with her trunk before she resumed eating. Soon the kids were ready for feeding as well, and with a choice of restaurants a short distance away the only difficulty we had was agreeing on one. With bellies full, a hot shower and heated beds were all we needed to weather the dark and stormy night. The bungalow’s bathroom was thankfully large enough to hang our wet clothes, and the space heater kept us comfortably

warm. The kids slept soundly through the night, but unfortunately for us grown-ups, were up by 6 a.m., letting in a blast of chill air and eye-watering sunshine. Their excitement was palpable as we readied for our breakfast, delivered by none other than Butch. Butch had already had his morning bath, and was still warm and damp as we petted him. We marveled at his long eyelashes (at least 6 inches!), and fed him a few more apples and carrot sticks before it was time for him to move on. Sadly, it was time for us to move on as well. With a final farewell from Fred, who escorted us back out of the compound, we left with promises to return soon. Vision Quest Ranch is open to all ages, though kids must be older than four to stay overnight—with good reason. There is simply too much for them to get into unless they themselves are on a leash. But it’s perfect for school-age children (elementary through high school) who can appreciate the animals and welcome the learning experience. As part of its educational mission, Vision Quest Ranch holds community outreach programs as well as seasonal animal shows to raise funds. They even hold summer camps (would that we lived closer)! Kelly Fergusen left us with a reminder of the importance of education: “When a child SEES an animal, it makes all the difference. It’s not just a lion or a tiger at that point. It’s THAT lion or THAT tiger. In fact, our Wild Things motto is ‘We will conserve only what we love; we will love only what we understand; and we will understand only what we have been taught.’” Vision Quest delivers on all points. •

A Menacing

Famous last words: We pulled up, slid open the minivan doors, and didn’t see the kids for the next hour. Playground structures abound; there’s a shrubbery maze, an assortment of slides, hanging bridge, tunnel and much more. While not a destination in and of itself, if you are in the area, Dennis the Menace playground is a worthy stop for your preschool, elementary and early middle school age children to burn off energy. •

GOOD TIME

armel and Monterey were at times home to the author of one of America’s most beloved cartoons: Dennis the Menace. Thanks to creator Hank Ketcham’s genThe park features a variety of slides. erosity, Dennis the Menace playground was opened on November 17, 1956, and with the labor and continued generosity of the people and community organizations of Monterey, it’s still a favorite. Located on Pearl Street in the El Estero Park complex, the playground has seen numerous renovations over the years, though a few original pieces are still visible. We opted for a quick stop on our way to lunch at the wharf. TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / NOV 2012

The iconical sunshine bridge.

Local sunbathers.

Libby strikes a pose.

ringing history to children in a current and relevant manner is ideal but not always feasible. Throw in gift shops, candy stores, whale watching tours and seafood restaurants hawking samples of clam chowder and you’ve got a winner. Fisherman’s Wharf was built by the Pacific Coast Steamship Company in 1879, and in 1913 was taken over by the city of Monterey. Expansions followed, and after the collapse of the commercial fishing industry in the years following WWII, the wharf shifted gears and became tourist oriented. Kids of all ages will find the sounds, sights, smells and bustling activity fascinating, but hold tight to little ones’ hands: It’s easy to get lost in the crowd. We stopped at one of the restaurants for the requisite clam-chowder-in-a-breadbowl, and were seated at a corner window. The kids were

Lunch with the pelicans.

OLD

Fisherman’sWharf enthralled by the pelicans who came to roost on the window ledge—we’d never seen pelicans so close before!—and were entertained by the sea lions jockeying for position on their floating dock in the harbor, just a few yards away. •

Cannery ROW

efore calling it a day, we took a jaunt to legendary Cannery Row. We found similar tourist attractions as those at Fisherman’s Wharf, with the addition of higher end hotels and spas. Cannery Row also has a large selection of outlet stores, a siren

call to the heart of teenagers (and their moms). Rain soon started to fall again though and, quite frankly, we were beat. We headed back to the Hilton Garden Inn, our home for the night, and collapsed into warm, fluffy beds. We are happy to pronounce this hotel

officially Kid Friendly as we discovered the rooms have motion-activated nightlights. Genius! No knocking around or flipped-on light switches as kids (or grown-ups) try to find the bathroom or a cup of water in the middle of the night. • NOV 2012 / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

MYMuseum

n absolute treasure located in the heart of Monterey, the Monterey Country Youth Museum (or MY Museum) is really so much more. There are no stuffy displays here, and handson is the rule. Director Lauren Cohen explains that the interactive displays reflect the chief industries of Monterey County—such as agriculture and fishing. Even golf features prominently, with a mini course for those working toward the pro tour. For budding entertainers, there’s a real stage (with changeable backdrops), as well as a backstage dressing room fully kitted with costumes. There’s also a nod to the medical industry with an ambulance and operating suite—complete with large-size Operation game (just as challenging as the smaller version). MY Museum is a must-see for pre-schoolers and elementary school age children. Our older kids were stymied by play activities sized for smaller tots, but found joy in the Creation Station—to the point where we had to pry them out as darkness started to fall. •

The tot-sized ambulance includes a two-way radio with the O.R.

Hard at work in the Creation Station.

i Most activities, including this golf course, are universally accessible.

The stage awaits budding actors.

had a lot of fun in Monterey, it’s a great place to go visit. I really liked Vision Quest Ranch (feeding the big cats was the best!) and the Monterey Bay Aquarium—both were lots of fun. But I also really liked MY Museum. They had a lot of fun things to do, even though I think I’m a little too old for some of them. It’s probably a better place for smaller kids. But I really had a great time in the Creation Station. There was a supply wall and work stations with crayons and markers, fancy scissors, tape and even hot glue guns! The supply wall had all kinds of things you could use to make stuff—things I never would have thought of like old pen caps and plastic takeout food trays. There were regular craft materials like paper, pipe cleaners, scraps of cloth and stickers and stuff. And there were things companies had donated like little squishy squares with their logos on it. I used one of them to try to make a picture holder, but I didn’t get to finish all the way because my mom said she really needed to get some coffee. —Schuyler, Age 11

he world-famous Monterey Bay Aquarium was our last stop, and a must-see for anyone passing through the area. Funded by Lucile and David Packard (of Hewlett-Packard), the aquarium opened in 1984 at the site of the old Hovden Cannery, which closed in 1972. I had visited the aquarium before, many years ago, and was amazed at the changes that had taken place in the intervening years. The stunning visual exhibits and touch-tanks are still there, but the foundation has added innumerable kid-friendly exhibits—from Sea Babies, where babies and toddlers can spend time on the coral play activity center and ride the

MONTEREY

Bay Aquarium

Michelle explains the difference between an octopus and a squid.

waves on a miniature waterbed, to the Real Cost Café, where adults and older children learn about sustainable seafood. We were greeted at the entrance by docents and volunteers ready to interact with kids. While some passed out maps to parents, more held puppets or small flasked exhibits (jellies!) and bent down to explain to kids what they were holding and where in the aquarium they could learn more. Sydney, Libby and Schuyler already knew what they wanted see first—the touch tanks! And so we made our way over to the bat ray and starfish tanks. Crowded with kids and parents alike, ready to stick their hands in the water for the ultimate up-close experience, aquarium volunteers were always on hand to explain the uniqueness of each creature. And thankfully, there were ample stations providing paper towels and hand sanitizer. We were disappointed to find the sea otter exhibit closed; it’s one month into a six-month renovation which promises to be even bigger and better. (The otters are still on the prem-

Touch tanks engaged both young and old.

ises, but sadly off-limits in the sick-and-injured facility.) Out on the deck, we were able to catch glimpses of tagged otters off in the bay. Volunteers handed out binoculars and directed viewers to their quarry by use of electronic transmitters embedded in the tags. It was not quite the same though, and we soon made our way back in only to find ourselves face to face with the Kelp Forest. The 28-foot tall tank is one of the tallest in the world, and grants a look into a truly unique ecosystem. The kelp’s gentle movement is mesmerizing as we saw schools of sardines flash past, leopard sharks glide smoothly along the bed, and one feisty California sheephead chase off a few lesser fish to resume his post. I was anxious to see the newly unveiled Jellies Experience, and it didn’t disappoint. From the psychedelic ’70s-inspired music and décor, the jellyfish themselves were showcased to maximum effect. Special Kreisel tanks, circular tanks to keep the jellies moving without chance of injury or getting stuck in a corner, were carefully lighted to bring each species—no NOV 2012 / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

y favorite part of our Monterey trip was the Monterey Bay Aquarium. Going there was amazing because I love aquariums and this is the coolest one I’ve ever been to. The Jelly Exhibit was my absolute favorite part. There were two jelly exhibits—the old one and the new one. OMG! The new jelly exhibit had the coolest displays of jellyfish—ones that I have never seen before. The best jellies were the comb jellies, which had rows of changing colored lights. I could watch them for hours. The interactive activities were lots of fun, too. I also liked the puffins. They were so small and had the weirdest noses! I thought they were cute. I was sad that the sea otter exhibit was closed, because I really wanted to see it. It just means I will have to come back when it’s open. Overall my experience at the Monterey Bay Aquarium was amazing and very educational. I highly recommend it for other kids of all ages. Even though I haven’t studied marine biology in school yet, I now feel very prepared! —Sydney, Age 13

matter how diaphanous—to vivid life. Adults and older children will be entranced by the delicacy and grace of these remarkable creatures, while the younger set will find fun in the various hands-on activities. For example, a special set of pumps set into the floor allowed kids to “push” their own jellyfish across a big viewing screen. One of the ever-present docents, Michelle, heard our musings on the jellies’ life stages and offered to take our small group on a quick, behind-the-scenes look at the baby jellies. The aquarium’s facilities are state-of-the-art, and we got a peek at the elaborate systems required to keep these delicate creatures alive. Jellyfish begin as small larvae that settle on a firm surface to become polyps, eventually forming stalks. They feed continuously. If food is plentiful, they’ll become larger, eventually reaching the medusa stage and breaking off to become a recognizable jellyfish. However, during less optimal conditions, jellyfish can remain in the polyp stage for 20 years or more. I could have spent hours in this magical world, but there was much more the kids wanted to see before we left: the Secret Lives of Seahorses, Missions to the Deep, and of course the penguins. The Monterey Bay Aquarium is kidfriendly for all ages. The youngest baby to the most disaffected teen will find something to enthrall. It’s located just at the end of Cannery Row, and has easy access to parking lots, restaurants and other Cannery Row attractions. Before too long it was time to hit the open road and head home. Exhausted and exhilarated, the three girls soon fell fast asleep, while us big girls mused over the ever-changing landscape and gas prices as we made our way back down the coast, ever on the lookout for the next coffee stop. Did we score big time with the kids? Yessss! • TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / NOV 2012

Left to right: Libby, Sydney and Schuyler.

If you go… Monterey County Tourism www.seemonterey.com Wild Things www.wildthingsinc.com Vision Quest Ranch www.visionquestranch.com EARS www.elephantears.org Fisherman’s Wharf www.visitfishermanswharf.com MY Museum www.mymuseum.org Cannery Row www.canneryrow.com Hilton Garden Inn http://hiltongardeninn3.hilton.com Monterey Bay Aquarium www.montereybayaquarium.org

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Rating the

Ballpa

TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / NOV 2012

arks Like people, ballparks come in all shapes, sizes and ages while offering vastly different personalities. Here are the top five fan favorites. BY DAN SCHLOSSBERG

here are mountain views in Denver, water views in San Francisco, and cityscapes in Cleveland, Minneapolis, Philadelphia, San Diego and a myriad of other baseball palaces that borrowed the concept behind Baltimore’s Oriole Park at Camden Yards. History lives at Boston’s Fenway Park, which marked its 100th anniversary this year, and Wrigley Field, where the Chicago Cubs were the last team to install lights for night games. Fans of hand-operated scoreboards will feel right at home in both ballparks. Arizona’s Chase Field, scene of the 2011 All-Star Game, not only has a retractable dome to keep out the intense desert heat but also a swimming pool to help fans cool off. Houston features a dome at Minute Maid Park and even has an old-time steam locomotive that chugs back and forth whenever an Astro hits a home run. Marlins Park, the newest of the 30 major league ballparks, opened in Miami in 2012 but didn’t do much to cheer fans of the former Florida Marlins--who revived the old minor-league name that credits the city rather than the state. In their first season as the Miami Marlins, the team finished last in the National League East and fired outspoken manager Ozzie Guillen with two years remaining on his contract. Two new parks opened in New York in 2009, with the Yankees moving from

the original Yankee Stadium to another edifice with similar characteristics, and the Mets shucking Shea Stadium, a Flushing Bay eyesore, for CitiField, created to convey the flavor of nearby Brooklyn’s late, lamented Ebbets Field. Taking a cue from stadium architects elsewhere, CitiField not only embraces elements of other ballparks but also the enormous metropolitan area it serves. It has the rotunda made famous by Ebbets, a pedestrian bridge that represents the region’s many river crossings, and an indented outfield borrowed from the Polo Grounds, the team’s home for its first two seasons after the New York Giants jumped to San Francisco. Because ballpark dimensions differ, some ballparks (such as Yankee Stadium) are ideal for left-handed batters hoping to hit home runs over a short right-field wall. Others, such as Fenway, favor righties. Wrigley Field is a hitters’ park when the wind is blowing out, but a pitchers’ park when the wind is blowing in. Great American Ballpark, in Cincinnati, and Citizens Bank Park, in Philadelphia, both favor hitters, while CitiField and AT&T Park are considered pitcher-friendly. The ball travels so well in The Mile High City, however, that the Colorado Rockies have to use a humidor to treat balls before they are used in games there. Since all 30 teams undergo frequent changes in players and managers, each team needs its stadium to give fans a NOV 2012 / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

Fenway Park.

bastion of stability—and a source of civic pride. Some do that better than others. Here are the top five:

1 PNC PARK, PITTSBURGH Even though the Pirates teased their fans with a fast start in 2012 before posting their 18th consecutive losing season, their ballpark is a big winner. The team’s fifth home since starting play in 1887, it is not only the most pedestrian-friendly ballpark in the big leagues but a beacon for boaters on the adjacent Allegheny River. On game days, the gold-hued Roberto Clemente Bridge is closed to vehicular traffic, allowing fans to stroll to the stadium from downtown. Clemente, who wore No. 21 during a Hall of Fame career spent entirely with the Pirates, is also honored at his old position, since the right-field wall rises exactly 21 feet from the natural grass playing surface. Contrary to previous Pittsburgh parks, PNC offers perfect sight-lines of bridges and skyline, with virtually all of the 38,362 seats afforded good views— TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / NOV 2012

AT&T Park.

essential to a team that features frequent fireworks displays after games. Thanks to its double-deck design (the first in the U.S. since Milwaukee County Stadium opened in 1953), no seat is higher than 88 feet from home plate. Masonry archways remind fans of Forbes Field, where Bill Mazeroski became the first man to end a World Series with a home run (1960 vs. the Yankees). The 10-year-old park hasn’t had its first taste of postseason play but fans come for the ambience, which includes an endless parade of boat traffic best viewed from an outdoor river terrace and colored neon lights that outline the skycrapers just beyond.

2 AT&T PARK, SAN FRANCISCO On August 8, 1992, the Giants were this close to moving out of town. Tired of playing in windswept Candlestick Park, where fans gave the team an equally chilly reception, the team had been sold to a Florida group bent on relocating the franchise to Tampa Bay. When National League owners refused to approve the move, a local

group bought the ballclub and arranged private financing for a new bayfront ballpark. It opened eight years later and has drawn three million or more in 11 of its 13 seasons. With World Series winners in two of the last three years, AT&T Park gives fans lots to cheer about. They wave orange towels (the team’s primary color), wear beards (saluting injured closer Brian Wilson), don wigs (for longhaired starter Tim Lincecum), and even wear panda hats in honor of 2012 World Series hero Pablo (Panda) Sandoval. Plus they root for “splashdown” home runs, balls that clear the right field wall and drop into San Francisco Bay. That section of the bay, dubbed McCovey Cove after Hall of Famer and Giant Willie McCovey, was a favorite landing spot for Barry Bonds, the single-season and career home run leader. He hit a record 73 home runs in 2001, the year after the ballpark opened, and convinced an armada of souvenir hunters to congregate in the waters and compete for souvenirs. AT&T Park is not only picturesque but

Citi Field.

Yankee Stadium.

Taerget Field.

accessible. It’s easily reached by BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit), a sleek subway system, or streetcar lines that extend from Fisherman’s Wharf all the way down Market Street. Fans can include the famed cable cars too, since two of the three lines that remain reach Fisherman’s Wharf and connect with trolley rails. With its proximity to downtown and the bay, its palm-lined exterior, and its gorgeous sight-lines, it’s hardly surprising that the San Francisco ballpark has had 170 consecutive sellouts.

3 FENWAY PARK, BOSTON The oldest ballpark in the big leagues, Fenway was shoe-horned into a corner of the Fenway-Kenmore neighborhood at a cost of $650,000—not much more than the minimum salary in the major leagues today. Because there’s not much room between the foul lines and the stands, fewer foul balls are caught—allowing hitters to prolong their plate appearances and fatten their batting averages (the Red Sox have had more than their fair share of batting champions). Adding to the bandbox reputation is the proximity of the enormous leftTRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / NOV 2012

Wrigley Field.

field wall to home plate. Marked at 310 feet but widely believed to be even shorter, the wall towers 37 feet high, making it a tempting target not only for right-handed batters but for left-handed hitters capable of hitting to the opposite field. Ted Williams, who twice won the coveted Triple Crown symbolizing league leadership in batting, home runs and runs batted in, was not among them. He refused to alter his left-handed swing—even though rival teams deployed an unorthodox infield shift whenever he came to bat. Because of its compact size, coupled with the appeal of baseball through the six states of New England, Fenway Park tickets are tough to find—even from unorthodox sources. But the experience is worth the effort: the street parties before and after games, the thrill of watching opposing left-fielders cope with the caroms off the Green Monster, and the taste of the Fenway franks, sandwiched into rolls that open at the top. History oozes from every nook and cranny. It’s been that way since Boston Mayor John F. Fitzgerald, grandfather of President Kennedy, threw out the

first pitch on April 20, 1912. A century later, the ballpark was added to the National Register of Historic Places.

4 COORS FIELD, DENVER Fans who favor high-scoring games will like this park even more than Fenway. Opened in 1995, it took only four years before the Colorado Rockies and their opponents combined for 303 home runs, a record for any one ballpark in any given year. The average score that year was 8-7. Because of the thin air in the Mile High City, balls simply travel further when hit. Scientists estimate that a ball hit 400 feet at Yankee Stadium, at sea level, will travel 440 feet in Denver. What remains to be determined is whether the Rockies should move their fences out, thus creating outfield territory too enormous to be covered by ordinary mortals. Without doubt, players tire more quickly at Coors. Pitchers seldom last long in games at the park, though Hideo Nomo did manage to pitch the only Coors no-hitter and more than a dozen others participated in shutouts—giving the ballpark an aver-

Chase Field.

age of less than one per year. The stadium has a specially-painted seat at the exact spot where the altitude is 5,280 feet and several concessions stands that sell a local delicacy called Rocky Mountain oysters. In the opinion of this writer, it is better to see the Rocky Mountains (another Coors Field treat) than eat that product. Like the Red Sox, the Rockies are a regional team with considerable drawing power. During their early days at much larger Mile High Stadium, a converted football field, they set records for both a game and a season. Twenty-one times in their two years there, the team topped 70,000 in attendance.

5 WRIGLEY FIELD, CHICAGO Called Weeghman Park when it was built for a Federal League team in 1914, this North Side ballpark had a six-run reign as Cubs Park before its name was changed to honor owner William Wrigley, Jr. in 1926. Even though ownership has changed several times since the heyday of the Wrigleys, tradition has never suffered.

The enormous hand-operated scoreboard, erected in 1937, still stands atop the center field bleachers and flags are changed daily to indicate a “W” or an “L” (win or loss). Other flags fly in tribute to Cubs Hall of Famers Ernie Banks, Billy Williams, Ron Santo and Ryne Sandberg. The ivy planted by Bill Veeck during the ’30s clings to the brick outfield wall with such tenacity that balls sometimes disappear forever—along with items dropped by fans sitting above. Wrigley’s reputation as a good hitters’ park is well-deserved; one of its games produced a record 49 runs (the Phillies won, 26-23) while another, also against Philadelphia, featured a final score of 23-22. The Cubs, widely considered lovable losers because they have not won a World Series since 2008 or even reached one since 1945, finished on the wrong end of both games. The list of memorable home runs is enormous: Babe Ruth hit his controversial “called shot” home run at Wrigley in the 1932 World Series, Gabby Hartnett cracked his “homer in the gloamin’” six years later, Ernie

Banks delivered his 500th career homer for the Cubs crowd, and Sammy Sosa hit his 60th home run at home in three different seasons. Fans flock to Wrigley for the experience. Many take the Red Line elevated train, which winds through downtown while linking both Chicago ballparks, and a handful manage to wangle seats atop the apartments beyond the confines of the venerable stadium. Enterprising apartment owners sell seats and souvenirs—much to the dismay of the team. The late Harry Caray no longer leans out of the broadcast booth to lead the seventh-inning stretch singing of “Take Me Out to the Ballgame” but going to that ballpark, or any other, is still a great way to spend a leisurely summer evening. Former AP sportswriter Dan Schlossberg is the only American journalist who specializes in baseball and travel. The co-founder of NATJA in 1991, he is travel editor of New Jersey Lifestyle magazine and Sirius XM’s Maggie Linton Show and host of Travel Itch Radio. Dan is also the author of 35 baseball books. NOV 2012 / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

Newport Celebrate the most wonderful time of the year

BY ANDREA E. MCHUGH

Spending Christmas in Newport is a truly magical experience. PHOTO: ONNE VAN DER WAL

Rhode Island T he sun casts its final amber rays across the harbor, where a handful of masts bob up and down and white lights begin to twinkle in the dusk. A crowd gathers at the historic town common as the mayor readies his remarks. It’s a scene straight out of a Norman Rockwell masterpiece, and it’s just the way the people of Newport, Rhode Island, like it. The opening ceremonies of Christmas in Newport ring of small-town pomp and circumstance, complete with a cannon salute orchestrated by a ceremonial unit of the Rhode Island Militia (in colonial garb), a proclamation by the mayor, music, and the grand finale—the lighting of the tree—all followed by rousing applause. The 42nd Annual Christmas in Newport will unfold on December 1. — kicking off a month-long celebration toasting the non-commercial traditions of the holiday season. The spirit of giving and simpler joys was important to Ruth Myers, who founded Christmas in Newport in 1971. Each December, more than 1,500 people volunteer at the organization, adopting a “more the merrier” moniker, and raising thousands of dollars for local charities and fellow nonprofit organizations. "I think the longevity of the organization speaks for itself—42 years now—and what it means to the people of Newport,” says Kathy L. MacKnight, who’s been part of Christmas in Newport for 29 years, and has served as its president for the past two decades. “Our support from

Strolling the waterfront and shops.

the community is wonderful to experience year after year. Many of the events become traditions for local families, and now several generations are enjoying what Christmas in Newport has brought to the community." White lights illuminate homes, shops, restaurants and the bustling wharves throughout the city in a tradition meant to represent candlelight from days gone by, when families would wait for their loved ones to return home from their seafaring adventures. There’s a palpable elation throughout the City-by-the Sea and the holiday cheer is contagious as shopkeepers stay open and wrap every last gift just right so it shines under the tree. Newport might best be known as America’s Gilded Age playground, where “more is more” became the cry

of the country’s wealthiest families who were building “summer cottages” on tony Bellevue Avenue and overlooking the sea. The most highly touted architectural talent of the period, including Richard Morris Hunt, McKim, Mead & White; Carrère and Hastings, and Horace Trumbauer were commissioned by the Vanderbilt, Astor and Berwind families, to name a few, to design their mansions. But Christmas in Newport is about honoring simpler traditions. Local residents and visitors from around the globe have traditionally come together during this magical season to fête what Mr. Christmas, Andy Williams, croons is “The Most Wonderful Time of the Year.” The Easton’s Beach Carousel & Rotunda, just steps from the Atlantic Ocean, is transformed into “Santa’s Workshop” with crafts and mini-train NOV 2012 / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

Bowen's Wharf tree lighting. PHOTO: BILLY BLACK

and carousel rides for children. Little ones are equally enthralled when the Polar Express arrives at the train depot, and it’s all aboard for a magical journey as the conductor reads the Chris Van Allsburg classic tale of a young boy’s unforgettable expedition to the North Pole. Along the way, children visit with Santa and Mrs. Claus and partake in caroling, hot chocolate and cookies, and receive a special gift “for every child who truly believes.” Holiday events are tailored to entertain every age and include shopping strolls, ice skating at the downtown outdoor arena, Christmas pageants and living nativities, choral concerts, traditional Christmas teas, holiday cheer at the local Coastal Extreme Brewing Co., culinary fêtes, arts and cultural celebrations, and more. Of course, one would expect a city with such nautical history as Newport to weave in celebrations incorporating the sea. Where else but Newport can you gaze at a 16-foot working gingerbread lighthouse? At the annual TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / NOV 2012

Bowen’s Wharf Tree Lighting and Open House, Santa and Mrs. Claus arrive by boat while Frosty the Snowman leads revelers in carols to greet the famous pair. Santa also makes an appearance at The Breakers, The Elms and Marble House—three Newport Mansions decked out with fresh pine trees and dressed in sparkling tinsel and 19th century ornaments. Poinsettias, evergreens, wreaths and fresh flowers disguise the remarkable properties as winter wonderlands, and special events such as the lauded Newport Nutcracker, Island Moving Company’s rendition of the classic holiday ballet, will leave visitors with visions of sugar plums dancing in their heads. Christmas can also be a time to get decked out in holiday finery and there’s opportunity to break out the bow-ties and ball gowns. The Newport Art Museum hosts ”A Dickens Christmas Feast,” where The Marley Bridges Theatre Company re-tells the classic, “A Christmas Carol,” and engages

guests in Victorian ballroom dances and games, joins you for a threecourse meal, and entertains you with traditional Christmas songs. Some of Newport’s most visited attractions embrace the holiday spirit as well. The International Tennis Hall of Fame & Museum hosts a holiday open house complete with a visit from Santa and a reading of “The Night Before Christmas.” Meanwhile, Doris Duke’s Rough Point mansion offers a rare, behind-the-scenes tour entitled “Undecked Halls,” where visitors can experience the quiet house, learn about the winter caretaking traditions, and get a rare glimpse into Miss Duke’s tropical Hawaiian holiday. A peek into private homes is also one of the most anticipated happenings. The 42nd Annual Christmas in Newport Candlelight Tour of Historic Private Homes is a weekend long event with different houses open each day of tour. Set off with a map in hand to discover some of the City-by-theSea’s most alluring abodes.

The Night Before Christmas has families lined up to see Santa and Mrs. Claus.

Santa’s Workshop is a delight for little ones.

It’s not the holiday season without a visit to the Newport Skating Center. PHOTO: TIM SIEKIERA

A year-round city, Newport’s many restaurants, from fine dining to casual bistros, are decked out with fresh greens and ribbons of red, green, silver and gold. A holiday-infused libation is easy to find, and dishes made from the spoils of local farmers, fisherman and foragers are palate pleasers that have made this coastal community a culinary destination. Lodging options include name-brand hotels, boutique properties, inns, and bed and breakfasts—with many hosting festive events and holiday-themed packages. Castle Hill Inn’s Teddy Bear Tea series, held each Saturday in December, welcomes children to bring their families and favorite teddy bear to enjoy the inn’s signature high tea and listen to readings of children’s holiday classics. Families are encouraged to bring a new, unwrapped teddy bear in original packaging to donate to Child & Family Services, a leading social service provider in Newport County. The inn’s Christmas Escape package (available December 24th through December 26th) features two nights’ luxury accommodations, a Castle Hill ornament welcome gift, two Castle Hill robes, guest-only afternoon tea service, daily gourmet breakfast overlooking the bay, a romantic three-course dinner on December 24th followed by a holiday stocking and seasonal treat delivered in-room during turndown, and a classic New England feast on Christmas Day. See the full line-up of Christmas in Newport events at www.christmasinnewport.org or call (800) 326-6030 to request a brochure. For all holiday and winter events, travel packages and last minute deals, visit www.GoNewport.com. Andrea E. McHugh has written for the Hartford Courant, Baltimore Magazine, Daily Candy, Edible Rhody, Providence Monthly and more. NOV 2012 / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

Top Ten Places To

FEED THE in the ANImALS U.S. BY SHERRY JACKSON

ids love to feed animals. There’s just something about a giraffe slobbering in their hands that they can’t get enough of. Of course, we never really grow up and adults still enjoy the experience as well. As far as family trips go, these establishments are relatively inexpensive. They can be visited on a weekend or incorporated into a longer trip. Some places charge by the carload and for others it’s as cheap as buying a loaf of bread.

FOSSIL RIM WILDLIFE CENTER— GLEN ROSE, TEXAS This 1700-acre park is only an hour and a half drive from Dallas. Food can be purchased and handed out from car windows as visitors drive their own vehicles through the 9.5 mile tour. And, from personal experience, if you feed a giraffe through your open sunroof, you’ll find they do slobber while eating! If you go: Check Fossil Rim’s website for exact hours and specials, www.fossilrim.org. PYMATUNING SPILLWAY— JAMESTOWN, PENNSYLVANIA On the Ohio/Pennsylvania border, you’ll find a place where “the ducks walk on the fishes’ backs.” Over 300,000 people visit annually and toss bread in the water to the feed thousands of carp that gather. The fish are so thick at times that the ducks literally walk on their backs to get some of the food being tossed. Kids delight and grownups come up with strategies on the right technique to hold and throw the bread. If you go: There is a concession stand located at the Spillway that sells bread but you can also bring your own: Wonder bread is traditional. The spillway is located on Hartstown Road two miles south of Lineville, Pa. Call the Pymatuning State Park Office for more information at (724) 932-3142 or visit www.visitpa.com/pymatuningstate-park-spillway-area-trail.

Pymatuning Spillway. WWW.FLICKR.COM/PHOTOS/DAVEYNIN/7178535801/

OLYMPIC GAME FARM— SEQUIM, WASHINGTON Lloyd and Catherine Beebe founded the Olympic Game Farm as a holding compound for animal actors in between movie NOV 2012 / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

African Safari Wildlife Park. PHOTO COURTESY AFRICAN SAFARI WILDLIFE PARK.

TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / NOV 2012

Hollywild Animal Park in South Carolina. PHOTO: SHERRY JACKSON

shoots for Disney Studios. This "inbetween" time was used to train the animals for future movies. Animals, as well as the property, appeared in more than 100 movies. After the death of Walt Disney in 1966, Disney Studios began to move away from the nature films that had been so dear to Walt’s heart. So in 1972 the Olympic Game Farm, with its wild inhabitants, was opened to the public. If you go: Feel free to bring your own bread to feed the animals but make sure that it’s wheat. For exact hours and pricing, visit www.olygamefarm.com HOLLYWILD ANIMAL PARK— WELLFORD, SOUTH CAROLINA The highlight of this park is the Outback Safari Ride. Board an open tram bus where your tour guide/driver will take you through more than 70 acres of the “back” portion of the park. This is home to the larger, wild animals of Hollywild. Be sure to purchase animal food before boarding as many of the free-roaming animals in this area will come right up to the bus and eat out of

your hand. Kids will get a kick out of fallow deer, zebras, bison, watusis, donkeys and emus eating right from their hands. There’s also a bottle-feeding area where you can feed the youngest additions to the park’s family. If you go: The park has limited hours during the winter months, so check the website before you go: www.hollywild.com. OUT OF AFRICA— CAMP VERDE, ARIZONA This 104-acre park was founded in 1988 by Dean and Prayeri Harrison. Their love of animals brought them together, and their travels through Africa have helped them to construct authentic, natural habitats for their animals. Out of Africa has more than 40 big cats, including lions, tigers, leopards and jaguar. You will also see rhinoceros, bear, hyena, javelina, gemsbok, wildebeest and more. One of the unique things at Out of Africa is the ability to feed a tiger (additional $5). Each day at 2:00 p.m. visitors have the opportunity to provide lunch to one of the big cats.

Treats are provided by the park for the African Bush Safari, so you can feed the giraffes, zebras and ostriches. If you go: The park is located 90 minutes north of Phoenix. Plan to spend at least four to five hours there. For more information, visit: www.outofafricapark.com. GLOBAL FAMILY WILDLIFE CENTER—FOLSOM, LA Global Family Wildlife Center is the largest free-roaming wildlife preserve of its kind in the United States. It is home to over 4,000 exotic, endangered and threatened animals from all over the world. It’s Africa in Louisiana. A guided Safari Wagon tour will take you through more than 900 acres, complete with 12 ponds and a lake. During the tour you’ll be up close to bison, giraffe, zebra, camels, eland and more. If you go: The center is open year round, seven days a week, but call ahead for safari check-in dates and times. Animal food is available for purchase on site. Visit: www.globalwildlife.com, or call (985) 796-3585.

NOV 2012 / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

Global Wildlife Safari. WWW.FLICKR.COM/PHOTOS/GLOBAL_WILDLIFE/6796078237/

LONG ISLAND AQUARIUM & EXHIBITION CENTER— RIVERHEAD, NEW YORK Formally known as Atlantis Marine World, this aquarium is located along the Peconic River and is home to the largest all-living coral reef display in the Western Hemisphere. There are two large Ray Bays where guests can feed and touch southern stingrays, cow-nose rays, and bamboo sharks. Long Island Aquarium is also home to the Riverhead Foundation for Marine Research and Preservation, New York State’s only authorized marine mammal and sea turtle rescue and rehabilitation center. If you go: The aquarium is open daily 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., year round except for Thanksgiving and Christmas Day, but some of the outdoor exhibits are seasonal. Visit the website before you go: www.longislandaquarium.com. WAGON TRAILS ANIMAL PARK— VIENNA, OHIO Family owned and operated, Wagon Trails Animal Park features free-roam-

ing animals. Guided safari tours will take you through 60 acres of woods and ponds. The animal park is home to more than 350 animals, including camels, zebra, water buffalo and ostrich. If you go: Wagon Trails Animal Park has seasonal hours, so be sure to check the website before you go. Buckets of safari food are included in the admission price (no outside food is allowed). Visit: www.wagontrails.com. AFRICAN SAFARI WILDLIFE PARK— PORT CLINTON, OHIO This 100-acre preserve has been around since 1969 and is home to over 400 of the world’s most beautiful and exotic animals. It’s only minutes away from Cedar Point so it would be easy to combine the two parks into a weekend of fun. Make sure you bring your camera as you view and feed the animals from the comfort of your own vehicle. A walk-through safari, in a zoo-like setting, is also available. If you go: The Wildlife park is open seasonally, and hours vary. No outside food is

allowed. Be sure to check the website: www.africansafariwildlifepark.com. WILD ANIMAL SAFARI— PINE MOUNTAIN, GEORGIA At this park you have the option of either driving your own vehicle through the Wild Animal Safari, renting a van to drive through, or taking a complimentary bus tour lead by an Animal Safari Tour Guide. This 5-mile tour (3.5 miles on a paved road) covers more than 250 acres. Come face to face with a camel, or hand feed an American bison. You’ll be able to see elk, water buffalo and wildebeest running free, as well as tigers, hyenas and zebra. If you go: Hours vary so check the website before you go: www.animalsafari.com/Georgia. Sherry Jackson is a travel writer covering subjects from snorkeling in the Caribbean to Parisian life. She has been published in USA Today, Blue Ridge Country, Foothills Spotlight magazine, Jetsetter and Yahoo. To see more of Jackson’s work, visit www.dragonflyventures.com.

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Animal Planet

with Griffin On safari with my grandson. STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY CAROLE HERDEGEN

T “There is something about safari life that makes you forget all your sorrows and feel as if you had drunk half a bottle of Champagne— bubbling over with heartfelt gratitude for being alive.” Karen Blixen, the Danish author of Out of Africa who lived in Kenya for a large part of her life.

oday’s television offers many outstanding programs on animals, from National Geographic, Animal Planet, the Jacques Cousteau Odyssey and Discovery Channel to mention a few. To bring this visual interface with the wild animal kingdom to life, I decided to take my 12-yearold grandson, Griffin, on an African safari to see firsthand some of the animals he had seen on television, in their natural habitat. I've travelled to East Africa before, though more than 20 years ago. However, I felt I knew enough about the land and the Maasai people to provide Griffin with this unique experience. There were many changes from my last visit. The Maasai villages and their livestock have relocated into conservancies along the borders of national parks and wildlife reserves. The Maasai people have taken on the responsibility for conserving wildlife and the natural resources within the conservancies, while earning income from tourism: a win-win situation. Griffin soon learned that safari living is not a picnic. From early morning to late at night, we were on the move. At dawn, our alarm clock was a wildlife serenade. Then, we were greeted by a Maasai with a tray of coffee, hot chocolate and a pitcher of hot water for a refreshing wash before venturing out in our Land Rover. All the animals

NOV 2012 / TRAVELWORLD MAGAZINE

Animal Planet

with Griffin

were now on the move, and we were off to find them. Later, we would return to camp for our breakfast. One morning, instead of returning to camp, we were taken to a secluded tree house overlooking a watering

occasionally display their expertise at spear throwing, a welcomed exercise as it was their task to protect us. One of our most memorable lunches occurred as we were parked on a high bank of the Mara River, where we wit-

hole. There we were able to observe a lone wildebeest and a herd of zebras. Not all safaris were by vehicle. With Maasai guides, there are walking safaris arranged by the Porini Camp, one of four camps operated by Gamewatchers Safaris. On one of the walks, we learned how to identify footprints and were informed a lion had recently preceded us. The extremely skilled Maasai would

nessed one of the wildebeests’ annual migration crossings. Below us, many hippos and crocodiles were waiting for their next meal. With enormous jaws of 20-inch canine teeth and the ability to run at speeds greater than 20 miles per hour, the hippopotamus is responsible for more human fatalities in Africa than any other large animal. Our days were not complete without a nighttime drive. Using flood lamps we were able to see cats’ eyes and the very active nightlife in the bush. It was thrilling to park near hungry lions as they began waking up. (Lions spend most of the day sleeping and hunt at night.) The Porini Rhino Camp is located in the Ol Pejeta Conservancy, and adheres to strict eco-friendly principles. It boasts of hosting the “Big Five,”: the endangered black rhino, leopard, elephant, Cape buffalo and lion. It is the home of approximately 86 black rhinos and four northern

TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / NOV 2012

white rhinos of the only seven remaining in the world. One night, Griffin and I were awakened by frightening noises outside our tent, which sounded like lions. We stayed put: The number one rule at all Porini Camps is never leave your tent unescorted by the Maasai, who are assigned to stand guard. The next morning, we learned we were visited twice by lions during the night, but they were eventually scared off by our guards. Griffin and I experienced the African adventure of a lifetime, highlighted by the memorable night when the lions visited. For me, there is been nothing more gratifying than sharing my knowledge and experiences with my grandson. Griffin will always remember his African safari and the friendships he formed with the Maasai. He promised to maintain contact through his school in Michigan and even started a campaign, WE CAN FOR KENYA, collecting and recycling cans. He raised more than $600, which he sent to Kenya for school books and desks. FOR FURTHER INFORMATION AND RESERVATIONS Porini Camps & Gamewatchers Safaris Village Market. Nairobi, Kenya Phone: (877) 710-3014 (U.S. only) E-Mail: info@porini.com www.PoriniSafariCamps.com HOTEL RECOMMENDATION IN NAIROBI Tribe—The Village Market Hotel Nairobi, Kenya www.tribe-hotel.com/ Safarilink Aviation www.safarilink-kenya.com Carole Herdegen is the Contributing Travel Editor of Elegant Living Magazine, a regional lifestyle publication with distribution in Southern California.

Detailed carving can be found everywhere in Naples, including the city's fortress, Castel Nuovo.

TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / NOV 2012

Excavating the Hidden Naples PHOTO ESSAY BY S. NATHAN DEPETRIS

The sound of water echoes from beautifully carved fountains that dot the city of Naples at every turn.

TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / NOV 2012

ravelers usually go through Naples by ship, train or plane, but sadly many don’t stop to visit this city. On a recent cruise, I decided to explore the sites and attractions of this quintessential working class Italian metropolis. I uncovered charming buildings with architecture mirroring Rome and Milan, yet with a flavor all their own. Sponsoring some of the greatest artisans in Naples’ history, the Catholic Church has shaped art and architecture for the last two millennia. Through inspiration and awe, the Church used art and faith to battle the darker, unsavory parts of everyday port life. From ancient Roman catacombs to modern shopping malls, Naples offers a palette of tantalizing options for all. Art lovers can seek out vibrant Renaissance paintings in dozens of churches or catch an opera at Teatro di San Carlo. Gourmands may enjoy Napoli's famous pizzas on every corner while traipsing through the Spanish Quarter before heading into the Galleria Umberto I to shop in boutiques and do some serious damage to their credit cards. Adventure seekers can venture into dark and mysterious catacombs, their more obscure entrances hidden in small shops and restaurants, to see the final resting place of the city’s citizens.

A view of the facade of Castel Nuovo is best appreciated from Via San Carlo.

The residents of Naples enjoy taking time to relax on warm summer afternoons when the sun is at its highest.

S. Nathan DePetris is owner and COO of Pride Travel, a full-service leisure agency that also specializes in catering to the needs of gay and lesbian clientele. He chairs Southern California ASTA’s Young Professional Society committee, has sailed on over four dozen cruises and traveled to almost 40 countries. DePetris holds several industry certifications, most notably by CLIA, the Travel Institute and various destination visitors’ bureaus including Japan, Korea and Thailand.

Intricate friezes decorate the walls of Castel Nuovo.

Charles III of Bourbon looks out over Piazza del Plebiscito.

The sumptuous Baroque interior of the convent of San Gregorio Armeno was a quiet haven from busy Naples for the nuns who resided there.

The glass ceiling of Galleria Umberto I allows plenty of sunshine to bathe busy shoppers.

The rotunda of Duomo di Napoli lifts worshippers to new heights with its heavenly frescoes.

Mazes of catacombs wind their way around the feet of Naplesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; citizens, beckoning the visitor to explore just a little deeper.

Even the most banal of municipal buildings in Naples can be flanked by art, like this equestrian statue.

Street Art now has a place within Naples, with interesting examples to be discovered in small piazzas all over the city.

Vegas On Beyond

Southwestern Utahâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spectacular, relaxing counterpoint to the high-energy glitz of the Vegas Strip. STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY BENNETT W. ROOT, JR.

Sunrise in Bryce Canyon refreshes the spirit and restores the soul.

e needed a tranquilizer, a way to feed our wanderlust that was not tied to gaming, glamour or the Go-Go-Go of the Las Vegas casinos and shows. We needed to nourish our spirit. Surprisingly, we found the perfect counterpoint, driving just a few hours northeast of Vegas and St. George on the I-15 to Cedar City, Utah. Four of us piled ourselves and our stuff into a van and four hours later were on the Maraquant High Plateau, 300 miles west of Durango, Colorado, and well out of the neon life zone. We picked late September for our Vegas/Southern Utah trip. We only

had a week, and for this, the timing in these two destinations worked well: Great shows in Vegas, followed by great autumn color and experiences for our few days in Utah. As it turned out, Cedar City was an easy gateway to the natural enjoyment, entertainment and recreation that was a perfect complement to the budget-busting guilty pleasures of Vegas’ gourmet meals, celebrity performances, craps and blackjack. For convenience, we actually stayed at a welcoming Doubletree in Brian Head, in the mountains just out of Cedar City, so we could easily access the natural beauty of the area during the day

and enjoy the theater in the evenings. Cedar City is a small town with a 100-year heritage of iron mining and sheep ranching in support of a developing western economy. But its founding fathers—enshrined in a series of bronze sculptures that punctuate the main drag—might be surprised to see their city today. This “festival city” has not only a preserved patrimony, but new delights, including a surprisingly accomplished acting community offering a range of theatrical experience from Shakespeare, to Broadway, to developmental drama and comedy. Like many others from across the

Autumn traffic jam on Southwestern Utah’s SR-143 “Patchwork” Scenic Byway.

Stones in His Pocket’s, a contemporary commentary on social values, complements classical theater at this year’s Festival. PHOTO COURTESY OF UTAH SHAKESPEARE FESTIVAL.

Cedar City’s Adams Shakespearean Theater reprises Stratford’s Old Globe, adding a rich authenticity to the Bard’s canon.

country, it was the Shakespeare Festival that brought us to Cedar City, along with the promise of autumn color and some meditative moments in the evocative atmosphere of Bryce and Zion National Parks, a short day trip from our new hub in southern Utah. Any one of these experiences would have been worth the trip; the blend of TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / NOV 2012

Bryce/Zion, fall color and good theater made this visit one to remember. Cedar City and Brian Head are very well located for enjoying fall color, all without the crowds and pricey accommodations of other, better-known color destinations. The altitude brought early yellows, deep golds and oranges, pastel pinks and vibrant reds,

both in accessible stands off the roads and on sweeping hills and the occasional canyon rock escarpment, all in a palette that would have excited Cezanne or Monet. I am always a sucker for the shimmering light in a stand of quaking aspens in the fall. Sitting among golden aspens in the quiet of an afternoon on a zigzag log fence,

Shimmering high mountain lake reflects the warmth and color of Southwestern Utah’s Indian Summer.

Hoodoos’ eroded shapes in Bryce Canyon’s amphitheater evoke fantastic dreamscapes.

bathed in the warmth of an Indian summer sun, then cooled by a mountain breeze, is about as close to Nirvana as this soul will get. Four hours from a pulsating Vegas, my spirit soared four light years beyond this city boy’s accustomed experience. While we planned our trip to southern Utah to enjoy being—just being— in the present moment, there were unanticipated excitements. One of these was discovery of the petroglyphs at Parowan Gap, about a dozen miles from our base in Brian Head. The Parowan Gap allowed ancient tribes to migrate easily through a natural gap in the mountains as weather and food supplies dictated. Indeed, for more recent travelers—Spanish explorers, plains Indians, bikers (on Harleys as well as Cannondales)—the Gap remains a significant gateway. Little wonder, then, its rocks once served, and still serve, as a natural tablet for messages from one traveler to the next. Paiute, Hopi and others’ “signs” are etched into the sides of the Gap. Among these, the famous Zipper

Vegas On Beyond

Glyph enchants and mystifies. Does it tell the ancients when to plant? When to move? Is it a solar or lunar calendar akin to those of Meso-American civilizations? Does it portend a shaman’s mystical messages like those associated with Stonehenge? More recently, do the initials of travelers carved into the heart keep them forever linked to each other? These questions were a bit too heavy for our relaxing minds, but we were fascinated by the number and accessibility of these messages from the past and will make it a point to return to time travel with these petroglyphs. For our evening’s entertainment, we returned to Cedar City’s Randall L. Jones Theater featuring a wickedly crafted, entertaining and thought provoking performance of a two-man show entitled “Stones in His Pockets,” a comic/tragic, morality play. In repertory with “Stones” for this season were six plays, including theatrical favorites “Hamlet,” “Titus Andronicus” and “To Kill a Mockingbird.” Each year, Cedar City’s Shakespeare Festival presents a variety of works from Shakespeare’s repertoire and other work, drawing nationally recognized performers and a devoted audience of out-of-towners and locals alike, similar to other festivals, like, say, the Santa Fe Opera. In addition to the Randall Jones Theater, there is an Old Globe-like venue that brings authenticity to the Shakespearian performances. These theatrical venues are first class, as was the work we enjoyed. Different than the experience of Celine Dion or The Red Piano show on the Strip, we found this theater to be intimate, authentic and very refreshing. Sunrise the next morning found us TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / NOV 2012

HERE AND RIGHT: Golden morning light shimmers through quaking aspens near Cedar Breaks National Monument.

at Bryce Canyon, awed by wide, red and ochre vistas, populated by thousands of naturally carved, cylindrical rock formations. These cylinders are evocatively different than the rock formations in, say, Grand Canyon, only a few hundred miles away. The difference is that Bryce Canyon (and Cedar Breaks National Monument, nearer to us in Brian Head) are really “amphitheaters,” not canyons, according to Daphne Sewing, a very patient USFS Ranger who explained the geology to us. Because of how the water flows, the erosion in an amphitheater like Bryce and Cedar Breaks forms irregular cylinders known as “hoodoos” as distinct from more regular pinnacles or spires or deep gorges carved by rivers. The hoodoos vary in size and shape and give one the opportunity to squint one’s eyes and let the imagination run wild, producing fantastic images of real and imagined characters from childhood dreams and nightmares, or images of a Tchaikovsky ballet or Tharp dance, or even a stream of people passing in silence through Times Square or in front of the pyramid at the Louvre. Images frozen in place for all time, all in a stillness that was transcendent. We had always known Bryce and its

hoodoos were here; we had never imagined the experience would be so impactful. Contrast this with the massive walls and layered mounds of sedimentary rock characteristic of Zion. Here one is humbled by the sweep and size of the geologic forms and yet that humbled spirit seemed to take flight, lifted by the majesty of the surroundings. Bryce, Cedar Breaks and Zion: What a stunning and beautiful antidote to our hectic daily experience. We had been to Las Vegas many, many times for a variety of reasons. Not until this trip, however, had we planned to stray off our well-worn path into this beguiling territory. And even on this occasion, circumstances limited our time so, at best, we got a tasting menu of what southern Utah has to offer. But what a taste! And what a spectacular counterpoint to our time in Las Vegas, fun as that was. We look forward to an opportunity to come back for more, and we know there is lots more waiting for us here. If you decide to travel on beyond Vegas, whet your palette at www.scenicsouthernutah.com. We’re willing to bet your experience will far exceed your expectations, and that your odds of success here are better than those in Vegas.

Todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s travelers studying messages from Native Americans who passed this way ages ago.

The Zipper petroglyph at Perowan Gap in Southwestern Utah speaks to time travelers of seasons and solstices of long past.

GAY & LESBIAN TRAVEL

Three Great Options for Gay

FAMILY VACATIONS Travel ideas and gay-affirming destinations for the modern family. Story By Marc Kassouf • Photography By S. Nathan DePetris

Today’s family is a hodgepodge of social ADVENTURES IN THAILAND: ties and blood that bind us. For many in Western society, foster or step siblings and parents are now common, and marriages often have multiple iterations, pushing the boundaries and limits of family. What has traditionally been defined as “family,” especially for us in the gay and LGBT community, is under constant revision: our modern family spans

A sleeping tiger at Tiger Kingdom, Chiang Mai, Thailand, where visitors can interact with and pet these mammoth cats inside large gated playgrounds.

multiple generations, and includes adult or older members as well as children. More particularly, when we define gay family travel, most of us will expand the circle beyond any children we may have to our parents, siblings, relatives, loved ones and even friends. Undeniably, the focus of “family” remains our children, but much of family travel in the community revolves around adults as well as children of all ages. The resulting familial mélange is as bright and colorfully diverse as a gay rainbow flag, and their vacation needs are equally diverse.

TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / NOV 2012

An exotic far-east destination that welcomes all families with genuine hospitality. Because of its Buddhist mores and culture, Thailand has been a beacon for gay and lesbian travelers for decades. There’s an ingrained sense of acceptance and a welcoming attitude that transcends mere hospitality and manifests itself as an embodiment of Eastern ideals and Buddhist teachings in the traditional greeting, the Sawasdee. From the moment a visitor arrives, he or she is greeted and accepted with genuine warmth. For a community such as ours, which has encountered countries or cultures that are hostile towards us, Thailand is refreshing. Depending on your family’s interests, the Land of Smiles offers rich culinary traditions, cultural and natural sights, and eco adventures galore. Spectacular beach, spa and amazing luxurious resort getaways can also be had at a fraction of the price of other destinations. All trips should begin or end in Bangkok, the undisputed hub of activity of the kingdom. Gay nightlife options and activities are so plentiful, I can only hint at them here: entire districts are dedicated to entertainment and clubs that are primarily gay. There are massive malls for shopaholics young and old, a great place to escape the heat of the day. Shows and entertainment are plentiful, and many of the world’s top hotels and resorts call Bangkok home. Nearby archeological gem, Ayuttaya, is a UNESCO world heritage city and can easily be reached by cruising up and down the Chao Phraya river. Farther afield, the island of Koh Samui is exceedingly gay friendly with a relaxed atmosphere. There’s a casual laid-back gay community far from the party crowds of Pattaya and Bangkok, making for an ideal southeast Asia gay-getaway for adult family with or without children. Nightlife is still available,

and there’s enough exotic offerings to amaze the kids and adults, but at a more relaxed pace. Thai food and dinner shows, for example, include plenty of fresh fruit juices of every tropical variety imaginable. If your kids misbehave, you can threaten them with stinky durian fruit instead of broccoli. Chiang Mai, in Thailand’s north, is pleasant year-round with a cooler climate for those sensitive to heat and humidity. Grandma will appreciate the moderate weather during the hotter months on those multigenerational family trips. Children and adults alike will love the opportunity to be an elephant trainer for a day, or several. On day trips to Chiang Mai, elephant camps, such as Maesa, showcase elephant soccer games and painting. It’s amazing to watch these gentle lumbering hulks playfully kicking the oversized soccer ball around, then take up a brush with their trunk and create a work of art right before your eyes. Kids’ morbid fascination may also be piqued when they learn that elephant dung is pounded into pulp and

made into paper by the locals to raise money for animal care and feed: Show and tell in school will reach a new height when they whip out a pad made from poo poo paper. As if elephants weren’t enough even for the most demanding eco-adventuring family, you can step into gated fields with tigers and their trainers. An electric fence surrounds these spacious areas where tame tigers lounge around pools. Nothing compares to petting, resting on and interacting one-on-one with these huge, graceful cats.

Colorful umbrellas make excellent souvenirs after the eco-factory tour in Thailand.

MEXICO’S ALL-INCLUSIVE BEACH RESORTS: Mexico epitomizes these amazing family package options from budget to ultra luxury, and all points in between. A great option, particularly for larger groups of families, all-inclusive vacations not only help you control your vacation budget but also get more value than you may with “European plans.” The product usually revolves around a sun-and-sand NOV 2012 / TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL

GAY & LESBIAN TRAVEL

The twirling dance of the flyers, or Voladores, is one of the many beachfront attractions and performances available freely on Puerto Vallarta’s Malecon seaside boardwalk.

resort, and includes accommodations, all meals, drinks and on-site entertainment. Inclusions vary dramatically from one resort to the next, and even within different categories of rooms. Most will include all food, most non-premium drinks, and nonmotorized sports, for example. Other more luxurious properties at higher daily rates will also throw in spa, tour, culinary and premium liquor options. Because of this, the use of a knowledgeable travel agent and reading the fine print on inclusions is highly recommended. Many destinations offer all-inclusive products, but to our knowledge Mexico is the only significant one that is gay welcoming. While steeped in traditional Latin culture, Mexico is very progressive as evidenced by the capital’s recent announcement of

TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / NOV 2012

same-sex marriage recognition and the community’s open involvement in local affairs. Resort destinations also have an ingrained hospitality, a tradition of welcoming foreign guests, many of us gay and lesbian and with family, for years. When you get to Mexico, venture outside the resorts to discover a country rich with culture, heritage, cuisine and adventures galore. If you’re a fan of culture, Mexico has more than 30 World Heritage sights, including four amazing natural heritage regions. You can visit temples, pyramids, archeological

sites, old towns, historic mansions and islands that rival the Galapagos for wildlife and eco adventures, just to name a few. Puerto Vallarta, Acapulco and Cancun have been especially welcoming of gay travelers and our families historically, but the entire country is welcoming. One of my many personal favorites is Puerto Vallarta, where you can meander down the Malecon where you’ll see artists painting, sand sculptors at work, and the occasional random folk performance, all freely available to locals and visitors alike.

OCEAN AND RIVER CRUISES:

Lounge chairs

From floating cities filled with shows and activities to small ships calmly sailing through the heart of Europe. Entering the realm of cruise vacations for gay families, be sure to look at all the types of cruise options available to the gay community: special full charters, partial charters or groups, and mainstream cruises. Full charters are essentially a buyout of the entire ship for a private group. Group or partial charters range in size from the very small (that can fit around a dining table) to several hundred. Lastly, buying a single cabin or a handful on a publicly available cruise sailing is another option. Quite a few companies offer regularly scheduled full-charter cruise vacations. Atlantis, RSVP, Source Events, and the kid-focused R Family Vacations are some of the more prominent. While they may also offer land-based camps, resorts and other vacation packages, the cruises remain a staple for many gay families. There are benefits and drawbacks to each type. One of the leaders in the gay cruise group business is Pied Piper Travel, which has been leading groups and pioneering the way for the gay cruise for decades; while I haven’t sailed with Pied Piper recently, I have fond memories of several cruise groups from small to large. You get the best of both worlds with group sailings: a mainstream cruise with likeminded adults (and some children) with a “gay” overlay. This is a great option if you have children and aren’t sure if the full charter is for your family, since there will be other kids on board as well. On a full charter, you get the immersive gay cruise experience. Events, entertainment and activities have been redesigned from the ground up to appeal to our community. And, while all sailings can accommodate children in various youth activities and spaces, products from RSVP and Atlantis are primarily geared towards families of adults without young children and incorporate many nightlife and entertainment options. Over the years, I’ve joked that I have only had the pleasure of participating in one RSVP cruise vacation, needed a week afterwards to rest from all the partying, and have been recovering since. Though as with any travel experience, it’s what you make of it, RSVP and Atlantis cruise vacations are jam-packed with

beckon you from beneath undulating waves of cloth that provide ample shade at the Barcelo Maya Palace Deluxe just south of Cancun, Mexico.

Barcelo Maya Palace Deluxe offers refinement on the Riviera Maya and beach with white sand.

NOV 2012 / TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL

GAY & LESBIAN TRAVEL

Forest-covered mountains bursting with color during autumn surround the delightful town of Piesport, Germany, where many river cruises sail by.

Shoppers search for handmade decorations at a stall in the Nuremberg Christmas Market.

Snow falls on the Luxembourg Christmas Market in the main square. River cruises in late November and December offer unique winter wonderland shopping for all ages.

nightlife, adult activities and very much akin to a floating party. There are certainly all body shapes and sizes represented (don’t let the athletic modelriddled brochures fool you), but the body-beautiful set definitely holds court here. Nevertheless, the gay cruise experience has earned an iconic place in pop culture, primarily because it remains a great option for the modern family regardless of how yours is composed. Note, though, that the full charters on Atlantic and RSVP are for open-minded family mem-

TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / NOV 2012

bers comfortable with gay partying (mostly men) into the wee hours, and don’t care that no one shows up for breakfast until lunch. River cruising is worlds away from ocean cruises. Even if you’ve been on the large ships with your family, there’s a new experience to discover with river cruises, which glide gently down (primarily European) waterways, through quaint towns and picturesque villages. Kids on river cruises must like discovery and culture, as there are no onboard pro-

grams for them. But for the more mature young ones that can appreciate strolling through cobblestone streets with mom and mom or dad and dad, this is a great option at a more relaxed pace. River cruising is mostly an inclusive product, unlike ocean cruising which usually covers meals, accommodation and transport. Almost all river cruises include day tours, drinks with meals (including wine, beer and sodas) and additional value-adds. Where ocean cruises are all about the journey—the ships are the destination, river cruising is all about discovering the local culture. Some of the most amazing and unique river cruise journeys take place during the year-end holidays: the European Christmas Markets cruise! Regardless of your religious persuasion, these markets are a cultural feast for the eyes, ears and nose. The festivities evoke fantastical whims in children and the child inside all of us. You will stroll through market stalls in all the towns, sipping the warm mulled wine, Glühwein, while your kids’ eyes pop from their sockets at the sight of all the toys, crafts and shiny baubles on display. Sample local specialties such as hot cheese fondue or the gingerbread cakes—each stall has a different secret recipe. River cruising, just recently starting growing within the last decade, from its modest river barge past. Several river cruise compa-

nies, such as AmaWaterways, have joined IGLTA and begun to add gay group tours or charters throughout its annual sailing calendar.

The vineyards of Bernkastel surround Scenic River Cruises’

IF YOU GO

ship, the Scenic

AmaWaterways: www.amawaterways.com ASTA website: www.asta.org Atlantis Events: www.atlantisevents.com Germany Christmas Markets: www.germany.travel/en/specials/christmas/ christmas.html IGLTA: www.iglta.com Maesa Elephant Camp: www.maesaelephantcamp.com Mexico: www.visitmexico.com Pied Piper Travel: www.piedpipertravel.com R Family Vacations: www.rfamilyvacations.com RSVP Vacations: www.rsvpvacations.com Source Events: www.sourceevents.com Thailand gay info: www.gothaibefree.com

Ruby.

Writer Marc Kassouf has traveled to more than three dozen countries, lived on four continents, and sailed on more than 60 cruises. He owns an award-winning travel agency and has published instructive articles for travel agents. A collection of his work can be found at www.wanderlustjournal.com. NOV 2012 / TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL

OFF THE BEATEN PATH

Viva The Other

LAS VEGAS The Fremont Street Experience may be the best-kept secret in Vegas. Story and Photography By Dan Christopher

If you feel an uncontrollable urge to bask in the Las Vegas glitz and glitter, the Strip is not your only option. Savvy travelers and families head for the Fremont Street Experience—it’s more Bourbon Street on steroids than the slick showcase that greets most visitors. Never heard of Fremont Street? I hadn’t either until my recent visit to Nevada’s gambling mecca. A short ride from the Strip will bring you downtown to vintage Vegas. This is the real Las Vegas—the place where Frank and Dean and the boys once tossed back a few at places like the historic Fremont Hotel. Though time has taken its toll, large investments in recent years revitalized this once-decaying part of town into a vibrant entertainment hub for young and old alike. You’ll find $5 blackjack tables, bulging buffets, open air stages, nightclubs, and an endless array of impersonators. Weird? Yes. Tacky? A little. Worth it? Absolutely. Fremont Street Experience stretches five blocks beneath a mammoth canopy called Viva Vision—the largest video screen on the planet. It comes to life when 12.5 million synchronized LED modules produce blazing graphics and cheers from the crowd below. This visual feast is accompanied by 550,000 watts of thundering, concert quality music; just imagine Queen’s “We Will Rock You” played at soul-pulsing volume. Locals come here to mingle with throngs of out-of-towners seeking electrified entertainment. Need more to get your heart pounding? This senior citizen even harnessed up to join the younger crowd on the Flightlinez zip line that propels you 90 feet over the crowd at 30 mph. I spent a few nights at the tastefully refurbished Gold Nugget Hotel and Casino, and found it a fine place. TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / NOV 2012

I also enjoyed a few comfortable nights at the newly renovated Plaza Hotel and Casino. With more than 1000 rooms, the Plaza is also home to Oscar’s, Oscar Goodman’s eponymous steakhouse. Goodman, onetime mob lawyer and former mayor, told me how he shook things up when the city was slumping. “When I became mayor in 1999,” Goodman explained, “it was a city in a state of malaise, no energy. We created a renaissance. We’ve got wonderful shopping in our downtown, premium outlets. We’ve got the phenomenal Smith Center, one of the great performing arts centers of all time. A World Market. We have a new center for brain health. So all these things have made us not only a major league city for the people who live here, but for the tourists as well, because they’re all benefiting from it.” As Oscar Goodman wound down three terms as mayor, his agenda moved full steam ahead when his wife, Carolyn, was elected mayor. She told me about keeping Vegas revved up, while competing with The Strip, which is located outside the city in Clark County. “Corporate giants own The Strip,” Goodman said, “So the bottom line for huge corporations is how I satisfy the stockholder. What’s exciting downtown is that it is all private ownership. We are reviving a past when it was exciting to be in Las Vegas. And we have a lot of young people who are investing in downtown, starting small businesses. Plus, we have this wonderful Fremont Street Experience.” Fremont Street Experience features 10 casinos with all the trappings for gamblers, including The D, which brought back coin-dispensing slot machines to its vintage casino. There is also plenty to do for non-gamblers and families. Here’s a quick roundup of what you can find: MOB MUSEUM: An easy walk to the multi-media,

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: The refurbished Plaza hotel. Ziplining across Fremont Street. Announcing the Fremont Street Experience. Non-stop action on stage.

multi-story exhibit on organized crime and law enforcement, it’s located in the same building where federal hearings on organized crime were held in 1950-51. NEON MUSEUM: New flood lighting now allows evening tours of the “neon bone yard” where some 160 signs, including one from the Stardust, are laid to rest. Some are slated for restoration. GOLD & SILVER PAWN SHOP: Home of the History Channel’s popular “Pawn Stars” television series. ART DISTRICT: More than 18 block of galleries and one-of-a-kind stores. RESTAURANTS: In addition to buffets and iconic spots such as The Heart Attack Grill on Fremont, there are plenty of family-friendly eateries on The Strip, including Serendipity at Caesars Palace. ROLLER COASTER: For thrill-seekers, New York New York’s roller coaster simulates a jet fighter barrel roll at 67 mph. GRAND CANYON: Guided tours from

OFF THE BEATEN PATH

The Viva Vision canopy.

Las Vegas give you the Grand Canyon experience on Hualapai Tribal Lands (outside of the national park) by helicopter, Hummer or soaking wet, white water raft. Vendors include Big Horn Wild West Tours and Grand Canyon West. SKYWALK: On Hualapai Tribal land, Skywalk is a U-shaped, glass-floor walkway that projects beyond the rim for breath-taking views of the canyon beneath your feet. HOOVER DAM: Just 30 miles southeast of Las Vegas and considered the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest dam, it straddles the Colorado River which forms the border between Nevada and Arizona. It hosts nearly a mil-

TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / NOV 2012

lion visitors a year. CLARK COUNTY MUSEUM: A 35-minute drive from Las Vegas to Henderson, the Clark County Museum is a chronicle of Nevada history. Stroll through preserved 1900s homes, shops and railroad artifacts. Dan Christopher is an award-winning professional photographer and a veteran broadcast journalist well known throughout the Pacific Northwest. During his extraordinary 40-year career in television news in Portland, Oregon and Vancouver, Washington market, Dan worked as a news anchor, reporter, producer and writer. Now, Dan is very pleased to be devoting his talents full-time to photography, a craft he truly loves.

WELCOME

to the new D Las Vegas. Long on fun, short on ordinary.

Downtown ntown at the east end of Fremont Street Experience.

t UIF% DPN t UUIF% DPN Must be 21 years of age or older. Management reserves all rights. Gambling problem? Call 1-800-522-4700. ÂŠ2012 the D Las Vegas.

FAMILY TRAVEL

Tips for Surviving A Day

AT THE THEME PARK Dread the thought of packing up the kids and spending a day at Wallyworld? Follow these tips and you just might enjoy it. Story By Fyllis Hockman • Photos Courtesy of Walt Disney World

Before too long, it will be that time of year again, when kids everywhere start clamoring for that most dreaded of family excursions—the annual trek to a nearby amusement park. Whether it's King’s Dominion, Six Flags or Disneyland, theme parks are among the most sought-after family attractions, but the hot sun, long lines and walk-weary kids can turn the most promising outing into a disaster. A little advance planning and theme park strategy can go a long way to ensuring a successful visit to the midway. July and August, of course, are the busiest months, but if you can schedule your visit mid-week, you can still avoid the crowds that arrive en masse on Saturdays and Sundays. Better yet, plan your visit for early spring or consider putting off your visit until September, when there are a lot fewer people to contend with. Some parks vary the time they open depending upon the number of visitors they anticipate on a particular day. Call ahead to check their hours, and plan to arrive before then. You'll reap the benefits of an early arrival long before you even get to the attractions, with a greater parking selection and no lines at the entry gates. If you have older kids, consider a night-time visit; the parks take on a special glow in the evening and the lines are generally shorter. Most people tend to stop at the rides, pavilions and shops they see when they first enter. Resist that temptation. Start your day at the far end of the park and work your way back to the entrance. You'll miss the biggest lines and end up near the exit late in the day when you're tired and ready to leave. Lunchtime is an opportunity in disguise. While the rest of the park visitors are heading for the fast-food TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / NOV 2012

stands and restaurants, take your troops and head for the rides. The other park guests will have traded one line for another while you, if you can wait to eat until later in the day, can avoid both lines. Bringing a snack or a juice pack to satisfy the kids while standing in line may help temper the long wait. Arriving around dinnertime can accomplish the same thing. Don't expect everyone in the family to want to see and do the same things. Get several maps of the park and select the must-see attractions of general interest and plan the order in which to visit them. If part of the group separates to pursue different interests, decide on a later time and place to meet. Make sure it's somewhere easy to find and has a name to it, so it can be easily described when asking for directions. Because there's so much to see and do, families often take on more than they have the time or the energy for. Hitting all your favorite rides and shows may seem like a good idea at the start of the day— and a frustrating impossibility by day's end. Kids especially wilt under a hectic pace and often need some extra time to just relax along the way. Be flexible; and be prepared to forego some of the attractions on your list. Many theme parks rent strollers and wagons for easier transportation, which goes a long way in maintaining a young child's enthusiasm as the day wears on and the child wears out. It also helps to dress in loose-fitting clothes and comfortable sneakers. With theme park ticket prices skyrocketing almost as high as the roller coasters they entitle you to ride upon, you may want to think about other ways to save. Food at parks, like that at airports, is priced according to the captured audience syndrome; you pay their prices or go hungry. Instead, bring a picnic lunch

to enjoy on a shaded bench while people watching. Steer clear of games and arcades that cost extra money. Kids can quarter and dollar you to death, so be clear on the ground rules ahead of time. The same applies to souvenirs. Young children are as happy with a $1 balloon as an $8 hat. If you know you can't convince your kids to leave empty-handed, try to budget ahead for something you know they'll want and need, such as a T-shirt or baseball cap. Be sure not to buy those items in the weeks before your trip to the park. And stick to whatever monetary limits you set. Wait until you arrive at the park and check out prices before promising any extra shows or treats. Costly sideshows often sound more appealing than they actually are. Focus instead on free street entertainment such as mimes, jugglers and musical groups. Once again, letting your kids know ahead of time what to expect often diminishes disappointment. Emphasize all that they are doing and seeing to take the attention away from what they may think they are missing. Anticipate a wonderful time. Be prepared for setbacks. And remember that whatever the realities of the day's outing, when you hear your children describe it to their friends, it'll sound just awesome! Fyllis Hockman is a Washington, D.C.-based travel writer. She writes regularly for Creators News Syndicate, and is a feature columnist for several online travel magazines.

HISTORIC TRAVEL

Where Giants

DARE TO TREAD Come explore the Antrim Coast of Ireland where breathtaking vistas and adventures come by the dozen. Story By Judy Florman • Photography By Tourism Ireland

A hair’s breadth from azure sky in Northeast Ireland, the Antrim coast’s vibrant cliffs of red sandstone, white chalk, black basalt and blue clay jut into the surf. These earthen walls skirt a coastal road leading past sandy bays, a vanishing lake, glens that bisect plunging rivers and picturesque fishing ports. Add to that castle ruins, a rope bridge suspended 80 feet above the ocean and a causeway of stepping stones for a giant. Myths and legends abound. Even

two recognizable landmarks, Samson and Goliath, two of the world’s tallest gantry cranes. Even before we reached the town of Larne on the A2, the official beginning of the glorious coastal scenery, the countryside unfurled its bucolic radiance. Grazing cows and sheep polkadotted gently rolling hillsides marked with patchwork ruffles of low, flat bushes. The road meandered beneath bridges and arches and alongside eerie rock formations. Mists hung low, enveloping hilltops, backdrops to pastoral townships, where window boxes sprouted purple petunias. Topiary birds, dogs and baskets were manicured to perch on bushes bordering homesteads. Gardens were abloom with red ivy, cranberry and lavender hydrangeas, and rainbow-hued peonies and begonias. This is a land of people who love color. Even the doors of their Georgian homes are painted in saturated hues of canary yellow, fire engine red and robin’s egg blue.

ANTRIM HISTORY

The Giants Causeway.

Winston Churchill slept here. It’s not difficult to understand why it’s ranked as the most beautiful coastline in Europe. Armed with guide books and material garnered from the local tourist board, we headed north on Route 2 from industrial Victorian Belfast for the serenity of the northeastern coast, armed with a stalwart determination to master other-side-of-the-road-driving. Before reaching the coast, we were treated to a brief glimpse of Belfast’s legendary shipyard, and the birthplace of the Titanic. The yard is overshadowed by its

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Before the coastal Antrim road was blasted out of chalky cliffs more than 150 years ago, local farmers heading to market had to battle rushing rivers that bisected the land and marshes west to east. One path, from Cushendun to Ballycastle, crossed Loughhareema, “the Vanishing Lake.” The locals claim that one day it would be empty; the next full. Legend has it that the enveloping lake would swallow coach, horses and passengers as they galloped across, not unlike the Red Sea of Biblical times. Despite the opening of the nine Glens of Antrim marking the coastal route to the rest of the country, the road did not destroy the uniqueness of its inhabitants nor the distinctive character of each village. Most of the people are descendants of both ancient Irish and their Hebridean Scots cousins, who resided across the narrow Straits of Moyle. The glens

The beautiful Antrim Coast.

Crossing Carrick-A-Rede rope bridge.

HISTORIC TRAVEL

An extraordinary view of the Carrick-A-Rede rope bridge.

are reputed to be one of the last places in Northern Ireland where Gaelic was spoken. The inhabitants of the glens are a quaint lot, storytellers of supernatural “wee folk” who are said to take revenge on those who dare to cut down even a fairy thorn. From one comes the legend of the wondrously beautiful but doomed Deidre of the Sorrows, betrothed of King Conor. At Deidre’s birth, druids looked into the stars and prophesied her curse: “This child will grow up to be the most beautiful woman ever to be seen in the land, she will marry a king. Great feuds will follow. She will bring death and destruction, champions and chieftains on seeing her will fight deadly battles and rivers of blood will flow through Ulster.” As we drove, we encountered the most breathtaking coastline of the celebrated glens with their magnificent views and walks. Our first, Glenarm, is home of the Earls of Antrim who still live in its castle. Glenarm is reputed to be the oldest village in the glens, documenting its past to the Stone Age, with links to St. Patrick, the Vikings, Normans, Scots and the British. There’s a music center on the grounds of the privately owned 17th century castle, which is open to visitors from May to September. The next village of Carnlough, where Winston Churchill once slept, was the site of a former limestone quarry. Trains once traversed its white stone bridge transporting stone down to the harbor for export. Its buildings reflect its local product, for, in 1854, supposedly the marquess of Londonderry decreed they be built of the local stone. The Londonderry Arms Hotel was constructed from this limestone, along with many other buildings in the

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region. The hotel was built by the Marchioness of Londonderry in 1848, and was eventually inherited by her distant cousin, Winston Churchill, who sold it in 1934. Cushendall, nestled in the heart of the glens and dubbed the “Capital of Glens” for its central location and legendary beauty, has been designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The ruins of Layde Church, which lie between Cushendall and Cushendun, house the remains of a Neolithic settlement, as well as monuments dating to the early Christian era. A stone from nearby Tievebulliagh Mountain has been dated as 5,000 years old, a remnant of a Stone Age industry. The red curfew tower in the middle of town was built in 1809 as “a place of confinement for idlers and rioters.” From the village, the B14 road runs inland to Glenariff Forest Park, reputedly the loveliest of Antrim’s glens, and dubbed “Queen of the Glens.” Just north of the village lies a magical church ruin beside a fast-flowing stream, believed to be founded by the Franciscans and used as a parish church from the early 14th century to 1790. Tombstones in the graveyard of the MacDonnells, lords of the Scottish Isles who became landlords of the glens, attest to the area’s close ties to Scotland. We detoured at A43 to reach Glenariff, where a series of waterfalls, including one picturesquely called “Tears of the Mountain,” cascade through a gorge traversed by a path crossing rustic bridges. From the visitor center, there is a breathtaking view, which the great Victorian novelist, William Makepeace Thackeray, described as a "Switzerland in miniature.” The U-shaped valley’s rocky precipices rise to wild moorland surrounding the curve of Waterfoot Beach and its quaint little eponymous village, where one can sample Guinness stout or join in the traditional music. Ladder farms run up the valley sides, giving each farm an equal share of lowland, glenside and hill ground. We watched lambs wandering through acres of bluebells, while yellow gorse and red fuchsia punctuated the slopes and plateau. We headed back on A43 to continue our travels up the coast to Cushendun, situated at the mouth of river

Dun (brown river). At its foot is Glendun, considered one of the most historic of the glens. With the Sea of Moyle lapping its rocky shore, the village and its tiny sheltered harbor have long been an inspiration for painters and writers. Owned by the National Trust, which legislates that new buildings adhere to the design elements of the original Cornish cottages, the village retains an image of the 18th century. The exception at the southern end are the black and white houses designed by Clough Williams-Ellis, designer of Portmeirion in North Wales. On a clear day, one can view Scotland 14 miles away. From this point two routes lead to Ballycastle. Near the village, the main road crosses the tawny Glendun river on a red stone viaduct and traverse the high plateau to Ballycastle. We opted for the scenic minor road leading to Murlough Bay and another breathtaking view. The road winds between hedges interlaced with crimson fuchsia and the pink-tipped honeysuckle which borders buttercup meadows. Sheep and cows graze almost to the water’s edge.

BRIDGING THE GAP A few miles past Ballycastle, famous for its Ould Lammas Fair at the end of August, lies Carrick-A-Rede rope bridge, which we viewed from atop the chasm of an extinct volcano at the Portaneevey lookout. With a magpie serenading us along the walkway, we nibbled wild blackberries growing amidst hedges of broom and canary yellow flowering gourse. Not for the faint of heart, Carrick-A-Rede scans a chasm 80 feet deep, and stretches 65 feet across, twisting and swaying to reach a salmon fishery. Constructed of planks strung between wires, the current bridge replaces the one originally built by fishermen in 1624 in order to reach the best spot to place their nets and intercept the salmon migrating to spawn in home rivers. The bridge features secure hand rails and safety nets for those brave enough to cross, though it is said to be particularly frightening when the wind blows. And even though no one reportedly has been injured falling off the bridge, some visitors have been too frightened to make the return walk and have had to be retrieved from the island by boat. There is no fee for venturing across the bridge, but there is a charge for parking. We elected to view it from afar.

THE GIANTS CAUSEWAY A few miles further lies a geologic marvel, the Giant’s Causeway—a group of 40,000 stone columns filling a bay with stepping stones fit for giants. This was Ireland’s first World Heritage site, though it has been Northern Ireland’s most popular tourist attraction for more than 300 years. According to geologists, approximately 60 million years ago red-hot lava erupted from an underground fissure and was forced upward into an existing chalk bed, forming an extensive underground lava plateau that filled an ancient riverbed. Over millennia, the lava cooled and contracted, separating into six-sided columns. But local legends attributed their construction to the work of Finn McCool, a giant who inhabited the area. As described our guide books: He lived most happy and content, obeyed no law and paid no rent. One legend tells of his love for a lady giant from Staffa, an island in the Hebrides. In order to bring her to Ulster, he built a highway of stepping stones, then destroyed its span so she couldn’t return . My favorite tale, however, describes his building the Causeway to lure his arch enemy, the Scottish giant Benandonner, to cross the bay and fight. According to the legend, McCool dressed in baby clothes and bonnet and pretended to be asleep. When Benandonner arrived, Mrs. McCool warned him not to wake her baby. The Scotsman, seeing the immense "baby" reasoned that if this child was Finn’s, then McCool must be much larger than he. Petrified, he fled back to Scotland. ripping up the Causeway as he went. We rode a tourist tram down to the bay to climb the formations and photograph this otherworldly site, returning by the mini bus to explore the interpretive center. We took time out for a snack at a local pub and a tour and tasting at the nearby Bushmills whiskey distillery, which was founded in 1608. Soon it was time to bid farewell to the coast and we returned to Belfast by interior routes. But the striking beauty of the surroundings and the (sometimes) scandalous historical fun will always remain with us. Judy Florman’s credits include: Coastal Living, Executive Traveler, Westways, Home and Away,Women in the Outdoors, Los Angeles Times, Boston Globe, Chicago Tribune and many others. NOV 2012 / TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL

UNIQUE PERSPECTIVE

* SYRACUSA ME The author is mistaken for “Lucky Luke” on the Italian-owned isle of Sicilia. By John M. Edwards

In Syracus, Sicily—not far from the ancient Hellenic ruins at Agrigento—I went on a mission for Zagat’s to rustle up the best “pasta con sarde” (spaghetti with sardines) that thousands of lira could land. About a block away from my pensione, an old palazzo with impressive frescos of famous religious scenes, such as the beheading of St. John the Baptist and the downing of Goliath by David, I found a great family-owned restaurant which was serving the signature dish.

“The dining room was now totally clear, except for an obvious ‘don’ or ‘capo’ in a stylish grey greatcoat and a fedora with an attitude...” Maybe because I looked a little like a menacing mafioso or cunning casa nostro or cool-ass Camorrista, I found out how quickly a restaurant can be cleared out, with an entire table of diners scraping back their chairs and muttering, “Lucky Luke” (which I assumed stood not for the comic book but for “Lucky Luciano”). The dining room was now totally clear, except for an obvious “don” or “capo” in a stylish grey greatcoat and a fedora with an attitude (creased just so), patting his chest for cigarettes. He really did resemble Burt Lancaster—and maybe it was him. The waiter, obviously not pleased by the massive exodus of his local friends forced into a classic chew-and-screw by dint of my cult of personality, handed me the bill and said that they didn’t accept credit cards. I handed him the cash, and asked for the location TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL / NOV 2012

John M. Edwards, Tintin, and Snowy converge on a sinister pensione.

of the nearest ATM: a term he was unfamiliar with. But at least there were banks everywhere: bloody excellent that is! On the way back to my pensione, I felt someone following me. Down the street a couple of blocks away a disturbing shadow presented itself, flitting over the cobbles. Obviously, it was a street arab won-

dering how easy it would be to roll and rob me. But a passing Vespa, with an obvious member of the scippatore on the saddle, scared off the young pickpocket and saluted me. Syracusa is legendary in the Greek Classics. But the magnetic pull of offshore Malta, the headquarters of The Knights of the Order of St. John, was irresistible. Valleta! So I bought a ticket down at the colorful docks and waited for the signal to board, which seemingly wasn’t anytime soon. “Why are you going to Malta?” a guy with wiry black hair practiced his English. “There is nothing there to see.” “I’m a big fan of the Humphrey Bogart film, ‘The Maltese Falcon,” I replied without irony or guile. The local stood stock still with a blank expression on his face. Obviously, he had never heard of this famous film “Listen, I am a stage manager here. . . .” “Wow, cool. What kind of plays do you produce? Shakespeare? Musicals?”

Out of his mind with laughter, he put his finger to his head and said, “That’s fantastic! You Americans are so smart. I’ll have to remember that! I’ll have to use it!” And with an arrivederci he was off. At last hearing the signal whistle, I struggled onboard with my heavy backpack and then waved goodbye to obscure total strangers on shore, departing the realm of olives the size of fists, plus the proud descendants of the Normans, Saracens and Greeks. After all, Sicilia is not really Italian—it is just pretending to be.

Wiseguys dine at one of many Family restaurants

John M. Edwards has traveled worldwidely (five continents plus), with stunts ranging from surviving a ferry sinking off Siam to being stuck in a military coup in Fiji. His work has appeared in CNN Traveller, Missouri Review, Salon.com, Grand Tour, Islands, Escape, Endless Vacation, Condé Nast Traveler and many others. His new work-in-progress, Dubya Dubya Deux, is about a time traveler. He is editor-in-chief of the upcoming annual Rotten Vacations. NOV 2012 / TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL

FAMILY TRAVELINFORMATION DESTINATION PINEHURST, SOUTHERN PINES, ABERDEEN, NORTH CAROLINA

The Sandhills area of North Carolina has entertained travelers for more than a century. The area is known for its 40+ championship golf courses, called the Home of American Golf®. Historic sites, seasonal gardens, and the villages offer a variety of options. A world-class spa and award-winning dining establishments are waiting for you to enjoy their distinctive dishes. HomeOfGolf.com

ALABAMA Alabama Tourism Department 334-242-4537 www.Alabama.travel

OKLAHOMA

FORT SMITH, ARKANSAS

In Oklahoma, you’ll find hospitality around every corner. We’re situated at the crossroads of the nation, where Southern hospitality goes hand-in-hand with solid Midwestern values; where the don’t-quit attitude of the Old West combines with a sophistication you would expect only in big cities back East. We are a one-of-a-kind state with something for everyone. Discover the nation's most diverse terrain and the ultimate in outdoor adventures. www.travelok.org

Fort Smith was a town on the edge of the nation in the late 1800's; the last stop at civilization before entering Indian Territory (now Oklahoma) and the lawlessness that lay ahead. Today, Fort Smith embraces and celebrates its Wild West heritage and preserves the memories of those rough 'n tumble times. www.fortsmith.org

Palm Springs 760-322-8425 www.VisitPalmSprings.com

San Diego Zoo Greater Birmingham Convention & Visitors Bureau 205-458-8000 www.BirminghamAL.org

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TEXAS Plano Convention & Visitors Bureau

910-692-3330 www.HomeofGolf.com

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San Angelo Chamber of Commerce

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405-297-8905 www.visitokc.com

434-244-7140 www.Ice-Pack.com

Oklahoma Tourism & Recreation Dept.

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757-385-6645 www.vbfun.com

OREGON City Pass

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212-528-1691 www.mfaltd.com

RHODE ISLAND The Newport & Bristol County Convention & Visitors Bureau

Niagara Tourism & Convention Corporation

1-800-976-5122 www.GoNewport.com

716-282-8992 www.niagara-usa.com

South County Tourism Council

Travel + Leisure

800-548-4662 www.southcountyri.com

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Ulster County Tourism 845-340-3568 www.ulstercountyalive.com

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Tacoma Regional Convention & Visitors Bureau 253-284-3265 www.TravelTacoma.com

TENNESEE Cherohala Skyway National Scenic Byway 423-442-9147 www.cherohala.org NOV 2012 / TRAVELWORLD INTERNATIONAL

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