Trendguide MBFWA 2016 by Trendable

M e r c e d e s - B e n s Fa s h i o n W e e k A m s t e r d a m 2 0 1 6

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Tr e n d g u i d e M B F W A 2 0 1 6

BY TRENDABLE

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INKNI Backstage - Team Peter Stigter

M e r c e d e s - B e n s Fa s h i o n W e e k A m s t e r d a m 2 0 1 6

HI THERE! Just like last year the Trendable team was to be found at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Amsterdam. What we did there is what we do best, spotting the trends. Although you might think we aim for the colour, pattern or silhouette that will be in next season, that is not what we mean by trends. We look at the social movements and although you probably believe that has nothing to do with Fashion you couldn’t be more wrong. Our team of trend watchers spot signals all year long, we call them ‘coolhunts’. A single coolhunt doesn’t say much, but when we see more of the same type of signals we talk about a trend. Trends are processes of change, they can be defined as the direction in which a phenomenon develops, in which this phenomenon has a significant impact on the cultural, social or business environment in which it develops (Raymond, 2010). We went to the shows of this year’s Fashionweek and we spotted five different trends, each of them is explained through some background information and with the shows that will clarify these trends. Besides hunting for trends, we had an interview with an upcoming talent and we saw an interesting newbie on the catwalk. If you are interested in a different view on fashion you should probably read along.

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Contents

M e r c e d e s - B e n s Fa s h i o n W e e k A m s t e r d a m 2 0 1 6

Interview K a h o To

Newbie SNURK

TREND

Diversity

Fu t u r i s t i c

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Gender Fluidity

TREND

Slow down Fa s t Fa s h i o n

TREND

Room for Gloom

Special Thanks

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‘I want to tell a story’

Kaho To- Team Peter Stigter

Kaho to made his debut this year by showing of his collection at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Amsterdam. This collection has been the launch of his brand. At first he designed for special occasions, but now for the first time he created a more wearable collection. During the show Kaho To takes you out of the glamorous world of fashion for one moment and takes you into his world. The collection is called Trans Dimension, could you tell us more about the meaning? ‘The collection is inspired by a movie: Under the skin. That movie is about aliens coming to planet earth and taking over the human body. Because of bacteria and gravity, the body divorces the alien out of the body. Thereby they exit the darkness. The collection is actually based on a men suit, so it is actually kind of strange. If you putt it in clash, you can see I combined it with darkness. The men suit does also have a feminine silhouette.’ This matches the trend of men becoming more feminine and women becoming more masculine. Is this something you find important for your designs? ‘Yes, because I think that it is quite important that a piece of clothing can be worn multiple times by multiple people. I just want to make one piece that can be worn every season and you can wear as casual, or as dress up or dress down. That is something I find important, that my clothing will last a long time.’ Do you have a character in mind when you are busy making your designs for a collection? ‘This collection is dark, as you just have seen in the show. I think fashion doesn’t always has to be glitter and glamour. Is doesn’t always have to be ‘cute’ or fun. What is important is that my clothing are looking good separately and that I can tell my story with it. I was feeling a bit down when I designed this collection. So I wanted to tell a story with this collection about being in the woods alone and that you are being chased by a man, that horrible feeling. That is what I wanted explain with this show. And I think that it turned out very well, looking at the atmosphere, the music and the make-up.’ We also looked at your previous collection and it also told a story. Do you find it important that all your collections have a story? ‘If you’re a designer you have to tell something with your designs. You can make clothes

M e r c e d e s - B e n s Fa s h i o n W e e k A m s t e r d a m 2 0 1 6

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and you can design clothes. I find it important to tell about what you doing at this moment and what keeps you busy. I can make clothes, but I don’t want to force it. Maybe it is a lot easier to just make them and then throw everything together. But no, that’s not how I want to work. I want to tell a story.’ How would you describe your own style? ‘Dark, I guess. And mysterious.’

Kaho To- Team Peter Stigter

Slow fashion is becoming more and more important, do you find it important? ‘Yes I do. But it is quite difficult for young designers like me. But our generation is focusing on slow fashion more than ever. We’re doing more research about materials, how do you wear them, how something fits on the body etc. It is something I keep an eye on, but I don’t know yet what it can mean to me. If I am going to produce this collection, first I have to figure out what I want to be made handcrafted. I am a starting designer, first I have to do a lot of research. It’s more background information for me. I am not really able to choose for slow fashion, but I can choose how I am going to produce it. That’s something I find important. Sustainability is important of course, but not my number one priority. When I am going to produce more than hundred pieces I have to do more research. I keep my focus on quality and how long a piece will last.’ What is the most memorable fashionshow you have ever seen? ‘Jeff Montes and Iris van Herpen. Because they are amazing and both tell a story.’

Kaho To- Team Peter Stigter

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M e r c e d e s - B e n s Fa s h i o n W e e k A m s t e r d a m 2 0 1 6

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Newbie SNURK By far the most adorable show of the week and we were there to see it: SNURK. SNURK is very well known for their beddings with gorgeous prints varying from an enlarged knitting pattern to an astronaut-print (when you are lying in bed it looks like you’re wearing an astronauts’ costume, cool!). The Dutch designers of SNURK attended this Fashion Week and showed us their new collection. A new collection of pyjamas with a SNURK-appearance. On the runway we saw men and women, boys and girls showing their brand new pyjamas. The kids and adults were very laid-back, which made it look cool. Some of them held a (SNURK) blanket to make it look extra warm. The atmosphere was intimate as well; the models were smiling at each other and at us and made it look like one big family being cosy in their pyjamas. After the show was over, the whole family and a big group of small children treated us with a last glimpse of what a SNURK-family would look like. Absolutely sweet, cute, adorable and really cool-looking kids jumped around in their pyjamas with their teddy bears. Yes, the aahw-factor was definitely all over the runway.

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DIVER

Oilily - Team Peter Stigter

M e r c e d e s - B e n s Fa s h i o n W e e k A m s t e r d a m 2 0 1 6

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Globalisation made it possible to be friends with people all over the planet. Although you might think that this is common knowledge, we still need to be reminded again and again that diversity is a beautiful thing.

SITY

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Oilily - Team Peter Stigter

M e r c e d e s - B e n s Fa s h i o n W e e k A m s t e r d a m 2 0 1 6

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DIVERSITY

Ethnic, a word with the following definition according to Urban Dictionary: ‘A name white people gave to describe anybody who isn’t Caucasian’. But we all know that it is much more than that. It is about different national and cultural origins. The Netherlands, and especially Amsterdam, is blessed with a multicultural society. Due to the globalisation it is possible to get in touch with cultures from all over the world without having to travel. Ulrich Beck, German Sociologist mentioned something in 1944 about globalization ‘Globalization is not only something that will concern and threaten us in the future, but something that is taking place in the present and to which we must first open our eyes’. Yes, we have opened our eyes the last decades but it is still an issue for some. Diversity doesn’t stop with the colour of our skin or the culture we grew up in. It is the way we like to express ourselves as individuals, the way we show our identity. In the 2016 Pirelli calendar there are photographs of a couple of beautiful, strong women. Each of them has their own appearance and is exquisitely captured by Annie Leibovitz. The acceptation of diversity has been shown on the runway for other shows last year. At the Victoria Secret show model Maria Borges rocked her natural hair, instead of the long curly hairs we would usually see at the show. Also Madeline Stuart, who has Down syndrome, showed us the beauty of diversity when she walks the runway for the FTL Moda show at New York fashion week. This fashion week a couple of designers showed us that inspiration can come from anywhere and that the earth is such a beautiful place.

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Oilily - Team Peter Stigter

M e r c e d e s - B e n s Fa s h i o n W e e k A m s t e r d a m 2 0 1 6

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Oilily The name of the show says it all: ‘Different is beautiful’. Oilily got their inspiration from people with different cultures, habits, colours and preferences. The collection revolves around intriguing clashes. This is not only seen through the use of colours, but also in the silhouettes and materials. At the finale all the models burst out into dance and it ended with three traditional djembe drummers.

Oilily - Team Peter Stigter

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FUTURA The collection of FUTURA this year is inspired by the ‘Katoentjes’ of Ankersmit and the Formule 1 racing culture. Ankersmit was a textile factory that got famous through the production of Indian and African wax prints. The more than one hundred year old designs strongly reminiscent the designers of the current racing culture.

FUTURA - Team Peter Stigter

M e r c e d e s - B e n s Fa s h i o n W e e k A m s t e r d a m 2 0 1 6

FUTURA - Team Peter Stigter

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Spijkers en Spijkers When looking at Shanghai’s advertorial posters from the twenties of the last century, this is what Truus and Riet Spijkers saw. ‘The pale skin of the Chinese models seems to be coloured by the light of the moon, but this is just an illusion. The moon does not give any light, but is like a mirror of the sun. A full moon is no more than a phase and therefore never shows its true face’. This is what the collection MOON TAN is based on. You could see the moon during the show and the collection featured patterns of Chinese scenery and the moon. This was shown in a way Spijkers en Spijkers are known for, with clear graphics.

SIS By Spijkers en Spijkers - Team Peter Stigter

M e r c e d e s - B e n s Fa s h i o n W e e k A m s t e r d a m 2 0 1 6

SIS By Spijkers en Spijkers - Team Peter Stigter

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Said Mahrouf - Team Peter Stigter

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Said Mahrouf For this collection Said Mahrouf collaborated with the Paris based painter Yassine Mekhnache. The pieces have been hand embroided, in the same manner as in the paintings by the artist, exploring the poem by Farid Attar ‘Conferences of the Birds’. In the poem, the birds of the world gather to decide who is to be their king, as they have none. Might not be the most obvious link with this trend, but the birds are seen as the spiritual and psychological representations of the human soul. There are so many different birds, just like there are so many different people. This story was beautifully captured in Said Mahrouf’s collection.

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Tess van Zalinge To get inspiration for a new collection you don’t need to travel to a land far away from home. You just need to step outside and get out of the city every once in a while. Her collection Geschapen land | Landschap was inspired by the beautiful description of the Dutch polder by Hendrik Marsman. ‘Thinking of Holland I see broad rivers moving slowly through endless lowlands’. While the models walk barefoot down the runway you imagine yourself gliding through vast green meadows with ground fog and a grey-blue sky.

Tess van Zalinge - Team Peter Stigter

M e r c e d e s - B e n s Fa s h i o n W e e k A m s t e r d a m 2 0 1 6

Tess van Zalinge - Team Peter Stigter

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FUTUR

Two Legged Creatures - Team Peter Stigter

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This trend is based on the futuristic, fantasy-based movement. The abstract nature of the shows within this trend is taking us to a whole other world. To escape todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reality, we feel the need to express ourselves like nobody else is doing; we want to become some kind of mysterious individuals.

ISTIC

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Happy Andrada The smokey-eyed models from Happy Andrada stared mysteriously into the distance. Drawing illusions from countless futurists and their theories of the world to come, she creates her vision of the future with the new cuts and origami folds she clads the female form with. The materials of the fashion pieces were flowing beautifully through the modelsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; bodies. It made you feel as if you were watching a fantasy.

Happy Andrada - Team Peter Stigter

M e r c e d e s - B e n s Fa s h i o n W e e k A m s t e r d a m 2 0 1 6

Happy Andrada - Team Peter Stigter

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Lola + Lou Lola + Lou treated us with a beautiful lingerie show, inspired by stories around American ‘Motels By Night’. Because in daylight everything seems different from what happens at night. Doesn’t that sound mysterious? The lingerie looked beautiful and elegant on the models, made from the best materials available. Lola + Lou - Team Peter Stigter

Lola + Lou - Team Peter Stigter

M e r c e d e s - B e n s Fa s h i o n W e e k A m s t e r d a m 2 0 1 6

Lola + Lou - Team Peter Stigter

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Two Legged Creatures - Team Peter Stigter

M e r c e d e s - B e n s Fa s h i o n W e e k A m s t e r d a m 2 0 1 6

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Two Legged Creatures Moving on to another fantasy fashion show: Two Legged Creatures. Models stepped right into the large dishes filled with red paint and as they start to walk they left a trace of ‘blood’, as if they were two-legged red blooded creatures. This show was actually some sort of protest against the evolution from human to machine.

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GENDER

Sistaaz of the Castle- Team Peter Stigter

M e r c e d e s - B e n s Fa s h i o n W e e k A m s t e r d a m 2 0 1 6

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We have seen it before, men become more feminine and women are looking more masculine. What if there werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just two kinds of gender, but a lot of possibilities within those two opposites? Fashion is clearly showing that gender fluidity is a big thing.

FLUIDITY

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G E N D E R F LU I D I TY Outside Fashion Week we already saw a lot happening in terms of this trend. Louis Vuitton’s campaign for this Spring, for example, is not only showing the future of fashion, but also that gender in this collection is not important. The collection has feminine and masculine aspects and the reason why this collection has gotten a lot of publicity was because of Jaden Smith. He shined in the new campaign wearing a fashion piece that looked like a skirt or a dress. Well isn’t that shocking; no it’s actually not. We saw him wearing something like that before and that’s probably why LV picked him. He is crossing gender boundaries by just wearing what he wants to wear and is a great role model for everyone who feels trapped within the borders of gender. Last year, we were all treated with a beautiful documentary about the most distinctive twins in Holland. It is about two girls and their view on gender. They are girls, but don’t look like it. Their short hair and masculine fashion choices make people turn their heads. In the film they say that people don’t understand whether they are two girls or two boys. But they can’t be bothered because they feel they can decide what they want to wear and what they want to look like. They say there is a lot more than being a boy or a girl. They find themselves in between those sexes and find that perfectly normal. ‘I think you don’t have to choose if you want to be a boy or a girl’

INKNI - Team Peter Stigter

M e r c e d e s - B e n s Fa s h i o n W e e k A m s t e r d a m 2 0 1 6

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INKNI - Team Peter Stigter

M e r c e d e s - B e n s Fa s h i o n W e e k A m s t e r d a m 2 0 1 6

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INKNI This fashionweek INKNI showed us men’s fashion, with a cute twist. The pastel colors that we have seen before in women’s fashion, are now also a thing for men. We think (and hope) the pastel colors are the new key-colors for men. Because, don’t they look feminine and masculine at the same time? Why we put this show under this trend doesn’t have anything to do with the shapes of the clothing, but just because the colors are very outstanding and gorgeous and add a sweet touch to men’s fashion.

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Sistaaz of the Castle Sistaaz of the Castle is a project based on the colorful looks of transgender sexworkers in Cape Town. Photographer Jan Hoek has made a documentary of photos of these people and focuses on their lives and their outfits. They are mostly homeless and their outfits are an inspiration for designer Duran Lantink, because they manage to make beautiful outfits with clothing they have found.

Sistaaz of the Castle- Team Peter Stigter

M e r c e d e s - B e n s Fa s h i o n W e e k A m s t e r d a m 2 0 1 6

Sistaaz of the Castle- Team Peter Stigter

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Anabasja Blanken - Team Peter Stigter

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Anabasja Blanken Anabasja Blanken treated us with a collection with a beautiful color palette. From absolutely cute, feminine items to straight lines, the materials are each fantastic and original.

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Tony Cohen - Jeroen Snijders

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Tony Cohen Tony Cohen found his inspiration for the Fall/Winter 2016 collection in the round shape. This season is accentuating flowing lines and the human form. With the highlighted waist and classic A-line, he wants to give a modern twist to his signature style. His collection for women is elegant and classy and the A-line is definitely coming back here. There were quite some similarities between the men’s and women’s collections, because of the colors and the shapes. We also spotted a beautiful flower-printed top on one of the male models.

Tony Cohen - Jeroen Snijders

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Monique Collignon - Jeroen Snijders

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Monique Collignon

Monique Collignon - Jeroen Snijders

Later on we talk about the slow fashion movement, though it needs to be mentioned that Monique Collignon showed her elegant, classy and graceful collection that is completely made out of Waste2Wear materials. The models were absolutely power-women and showed the ageless collection. The feminine business suits can be worn to work, but are also very easy to style as casualwear. The fitting of the clothing varied from loose-fitted to skin-tight wear, which is a perfect overlay of masculine and feminine.

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ROOM FOR Sistaaz of the Castle- Team Peter Stigter

M e r c e d e s - B e n s Fa s h i o n W e e k A m s t e r d a m 2 0 1 6

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It should be okay for everyone to show their feelings. Sometimes we need to be reminded that you are not the only one that has some dark days every now and then.

GLOOM

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ROOM FOR GLOOM Every person’s life has a dark side. We all have our moments of feeling down, sometimes more often than other times. Due to the ‘perfect’ lives we created on social networks we are obligated to keep our gloomy moments to ourselves. That social media has a world we are not supposed to see is shown by Essena O’Neill. She had over 500.000 followers on Instagram when she removed all of her photos and posted ‘honest’ pics where she noted the time and effort that was taken to make the photos. Brands start to realise that we shouldn’t live up to ‘the perfect life’, Axe is starting a campaign where just like Dove they use ‘normal’ people instead of the womanizers that we all know from Axe’s advertorials. It is okay to show dark feelings you usually would hide away. This idea is something seen on the catwalk in Amsterdam this year.

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Claes Iversen The show consists of two different collections, the ready-to-wear collection Il By Claes Iversen and eleven couture pieces. The ready-towear collection was inspired by the movie ‘Rosemary’s Baby’ from the 60’s. In particular, the dark atmosphere that director Roman Polanski combined with the sweet and girlish Mia Farrow. This offers a contrast that recurs throughout the collection.

Il By Claes Iversen - Team Peter Stigter

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Claes Iversen - Team Peter Stigter

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Kaho To - Team Peter Stigter

Kaho To- Team Peter Stigter

M e r c e d e s - B e n s Fa s h i o n W e e k A m s t e r d a m 2 0 1 6

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Kaho To Kaho To’s show is called Transdimensional. ‘Transdimensional tells the story about extraterrestrial beings whom are taking over the human body to explore Earth. The new “Humans” don’t blend in with mankind, which leads to them being awkward and uncomfortable. They close themselves off to densely populated areas to study the humans. Meanwhile, the extraterrestrial life forms discover that they aren’t accustomed to the human body. Slowly the body thrusts the extraterrestrial being out of the body creating a new dimension of the human body.’ In the interview Kaho To also told us that he has been feeling blue lately and that is something you would see in the collection. He finds it important to tell a story when creating a collection; here he not only tells a story about extraterrestrial beings, but also about himself.

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SLOW DOWN Lisa Konno - Team Peter Stigter

M e r c e d e s - B e n s Fa s h i o n W e e k A m s t e r d a m 2 0 1 6

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Sustainable fashion used to be synonymous with old-fashioned, boring looking clothes. Fortunately this is not the case anymore. Brands and designers who think of the environmental effects of the production of their clothes are the pioneers of the future.

FAST FASHION

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SLOW DOWN FAST FASHION

Fast Fashion; a term that is already well known. And luckily the opposite of Fast Fashion already made its entrance at last year’s MBWFA. This year even more designers took a look at the materialistic society and made this the main subject of their collection. Slow Fashion is a sustainable fashion movement that is gaining momentum. It attempts to slow down the rate of change, where Fast Fashion is all about rapid change. Fast-fashion clothes are made to be worn for only one season, which often equates with bad quality. The brands and factories where these clothes come from are mostly not really taking care of their workers and don’t pay enough attention to the environmental effects of their production process. The fashion industry is considered the second dirtiest industry in the world, next to big oil. At first some smaller brands started to improve the way their clothes are made, but now also the big players are willing to change. Already a bit older, but still a good example, is the ‘Raw for the Oceans’ collection by G-Star. This collection, with the help of Pharell Williams, used recycled ocean plastic for their denim. Some items of clothing are hard to make in a sustainable way, but we also can’t really miss them in our closet. For example: everything made out of denim. Denim is a fabric of which the production process is very polluting and it is hard to make that process completely environment-friendly. But there are other ways to make it more sustainable, according to MUD jeans. Instead of owning jeans, you lease them and by doing so they made their clothing circulate. Gradually we start to realise the impact of Fast Fashion and start to get involved with Slow Fashion. The following designers took a look at the materialistic world we live in and shared their thoughts through their collections.

Jef Montes - Team Peter Stigter

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Esther Haamke - Team Peter Stigter

Esther Haamke- Team Peter Stigter

M e r c e d e s - B e n s Fa s h i o n W e e k A m s t e r d a m 2 0 1 6

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Esther Haamke When The Fortune Collection came down the catwalk it brought a smile on everybodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s face. Through her collection Hammke wanted to take on the materialistic society in a humorous manner. She playfully used casino signs, lucky charms, colour and glitter. Her first model came up while throwing money in the air. The collection was inspired by the sports- and pop culture.

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Jef Montes Jef Montes wanted to personally take on the current fashion industry where speed and blank hypes predominate. For his collection RESOLVER he collaborated with TextielMuseum Tilburg to create a water-soluble material. While the models walk over the catwalk they come in contact with water, the initial silver garments slowly melt away and the black weft yarns appear as gossamer ladders. Jef Montes: ‘Resolver is Spanish for solving, which to me represents a new fresh start. My label gives me the freedom to set it’s own aesthetic reality and rules. This season I want to clean up and literally dissolve clothing. What’s left? A clean start, the naked truth, purity, love.’

Jef Montes - Team Peter Stigter

Jef Montes- Team Peter Stigter

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Jef Montes - Team Peter Stigter

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Mick Keus This show was not the show you would normally expect at a Fashionweek, but despite that, it did make a good impression. Mick Keus is re-appropriating vintage Levi’s 501 for today. The Levi’s 501 are one of the most iconic jeans and by reworking and adjusting this iconic denim Mick is aiming to create the perfect pair of jeans. He understands that every body asks for a different approach to reach its perfect fit. Thus, on the runway there was a group of various models, each different ages and different sizes, but still a beautiful group of people. An ode to the 501. An ode to the individual.

Mick Keus - Team Peter Stigter

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Mick Keus - Team Peter Stigter

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Lisa Konno - Team Peter Stigter

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Lisa Konno

Lisa Konno - Team Peter Stigter

This designer never d isappoints. She always tries to make a statement with her collection and she most definitely wants to change the fashion-industry. This time she also addresses the wearer. Yours Truly was a call to think about the clothes you wear and the often hidden craftsmanship that lies behind each garment. Through Fast Fashion fashion has distanced from us, Lisa Konno wants to give us a peek into the world of craftsmanship in the fashion industry. At the end of the show you could buy the pattern of one of the blouses shown. It wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be a Lisa Konno collection if she also used a sustainable material, for this collection she chose second-hand silk scarfs.

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Special Thanks

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