HISTORIC VILLAGES 25 ENCHANTING PLACES THAT CAN BE CONVENIENTLY REACHED BY TRAIN
"Once a year, go someplace you've never been before."
(Dalai Lama)
OUR BENEFITS Thanks to the extensiveness of Italy’s railway network, the entire country can be traversed from north to south in just a few hours, including all the main art cities, as well as the major natural attractions in both the seaside and mountain regions. The regional transport links all the metropolitan areas in a strategic manner, allowing travellers to enjoy their journeys from the very start, and immerse themselves in a unique experience.
"The reason I travel is to enjoy the landscape" (Giovanni Comisso)
BABIES
Children 0 to 3 years of age travel for free. 50% discounts are offered if they take up a seat. Different conditions may apply depending on regional regulations. More info on trenitalia.com
KIDS
Children 4 to 11 years of age receive a 50% discount. Different conditions may apply depending on regional regulations. More info on trenitalia.com
PRM FRIENDLY
Trains equipped for people with reduced mobility. Assistance is available at stations with Sala Blu facilities.
GREEN
Thanks to their reduced environmental impact, trains represent the green mode of transport par excellence, generating 76% less CO2 emissions than planes.
GROUPS
10% discount for groups of at least 10 people. This offer can be combined with the KIDS and BABIES discounts.
PET FRIENDLY
Small dogs, cats and household pets travel for free.
BIKES
Trains bearing the relative signs have bike carriers available. A surcharge applies.
BAGGAGE
Baggage is free of charge, with no quantity or size restrictions.
5
SUMMARY Liguria Aosta Valley 1
On the discovery of hidden gems, castles, little medieval towns, and breathtaking scenery nestled among the hills, mountains, valleys and coastal areas.
BARD
Piedmont 2
14
Trentino Alto Adige 11
VIPITENO
80
12
CHIUSA
86
13
EGNA
92
VOGOGNA
22
3
ORTA SAN GIULIO
28
4
MOMBALDONE
34
5
LAIGUEGLIA
6
BORGIO VEREZZI
48
7
FINALBORGO
54
8
CAMPO LIGURE
60
9
MONEGLIA
66
10
VERNAZZA
72
Veneto 14
MONTAGNANA
42
Friuli Venezia Giulia
100
15
VENZONE
108
7
SUMMARY Emilia Romagna
"You can fall in love at first sight with a place as with a person" (Alec Waugh)
16
BRISIGHELLA
17
PASSIGNANO SUL
BUONCONVENTO
124
18
GROTTAMMARE
132
116
Abruzzo
Umbria 19
Marche
Tuscany
140
22
TAGLIACOZZO
160
TRASIMENO 20
CASTIGLIONE DEL LAGO
146
21
SPELLO
152
9
SUMMARY Campania Calabria 23
History, itineraries, hidden places, and mysterious characters. Not to mention myths and legends, churches and monasteries, the sacred and the profane. A taste of the typical products, the best that Italy has to offer.
ALBORI-VIETRI SUL MARE 168
24
CHIANALEA
176
Sicily 25
CEFALĂ™
184
11
AOSTA VALLEY BARD
BARD AOSTA (AO) ALTITUDE 381 m.a.s.l. INHABITANTS 140 TOURISM INFO Fort of Bard Museum and Cultural Centre Tel. +39 0125 833811 [info@fortedibard.it] [fortedibard.it]
BARD
Town Hall Piazza Cavour, 4 Tel +39 0125 80 31 34 [info@comune.bard.ao.it] [comune.bard.ao.it]
UNDER A FLAGSTONE ROOF
BARD CAN BE REACHED FROM AOSTA IN 40' IVREA IN 20'
A medieval village of about forty houses, occupying just 3 square kilometres, at the foot of an ancient Roman consular road, with the River Dora Baltea below, and the fort above. This majestic building, which was never conquered until the arrival of Napoleon, now houses the Museum of the Alps. From above Bard looks like a heap of stones, and you can still almost hear the sounds of the Roman legions’ chariots along its narrow cobblestone roads.
DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 850 m AOSTA Nus Chatillon Verres Hone–Bard Donnaz Pont Saint Martin Borgofranco IVREA 15
CENNI STORICI HISTORICAL NOTES
11th CENT. Otto of Bard built a castle on the promontory in order to impose a toll on travellers and merchandise. 1242 The stronghold was captured by Amadeus IV of Savoy, who transformed it into a fortress. 1661 It became the House of Savoy’s garrison in Aosta Valley. 1800 The village fell during a night attack led by Napoleon, who had the Vilain Castel de Bard completely destroyed, only to be rebuilt thirty years later by Carlo Felice. 1975 The military state relinquished the fort to the Aosta Valley region. ORIGINS OF THE NAME From the Celtic bar: stronghold, fortified place. 16
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
The Rocchi di Bard wines: bright red in colour, tending towards maroon, with an almond fragrance. Fiuor di cousse, stuffed oven-baked pumpkin flowers, and cornmeal cookies. EVENTS The Feast of Our Lady of Caravaggio: second Sunday in July Patronal feast, Our Lady of the Assumption: 15 August Living Nativity Scene: 24 December
"Bard "Testo is demo like a wedge demo between demo twodemo mountains" demo" (Anonymous editor of the Messager ValdĂ´tain)
INTERESTING FACTS
The figure of a serpent, a symbol of male sexual prowess, is found on one of the boulders at the Bard archaeological geosite, and dates back to around 3000-2700 B.C. It seems that, in antiquity, during the propitiatory fertility rituals, women would slide along the sloping rock, hence the name Scivolo delle Donne (the “Women’s Slide”).
"Testo demo demo demo demo demo" (Autore, 0000)
PIEDMONT
VOGOGNA, ORTA SAN GIULIO, MOMBALDONE
VOGOGNA VERBANO CUSIO OSSOLA (VB) ALTITUDE 223 m.a.s.l. INHABITANTS 1,743 TOURISM INFO Town Hall Tel. +39 0324 87200 [comune.vogogna.vb.it]
VOGOGNA A STONE IN BLOOM
VOGOGNA CAN BE REACHED FROM NOVARA IN 1H30'
Vogogna’s great military past can be clearly seen from atop the 14th century Visconti Castle, with its characteristic semi-circular tower and crenellated walls, which is now home to a museum and multimedia centre. The fortress, which seems to have arisen from the bare rock itself, and the houses, are both made from local grey “Beola” stone. The Celtic Mask in the Oratory of San Pietro’s courtyard, on the other hand, is made from soapstone, and is a source of fresh spring water considered to be healthy and blessed.
DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 500 m NOVARA Caltignaga Momo Cressa–Fontaneto Borgomanero Gozzano Orta–Miasino Pettenasco Omegna Gravellona Toce Ornavasso Cuzzago Premosello–Chiovenda VOGOGNA OSSOLA 23
HISTORICAL NOTES
970 First notarial deed in which the name Vogogna appears. 1416-1600 Period of splendour under the rule of the House of Borromeo. 1535-1814 Controlled in succession by Spain, Austria, the House of Savoy, and France. 1819 Lost its status as capital of Lower Ossola, and became a simple municipality. ORIGINS OF THE NAME Before the Romans, the area was occupied by an ancient population called the Agon Gauls. Vogogna is therefore derived from Vallis Agonum (meaning “village of the Agons�). 24
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
The Ossola Valley is known for its wide range of charcuterie and cheeses. The local sausages include liver mortadella, head salami, and beef bresaola, while the local cheeses include Trontano, Bettelmatt, and the goat cheeses of the Vigezzo Valley. EVENTS The Village Art and Food Festival: April Musical and theatrical events: July-August The Settimane Musicali Concert: third week of August Patronal feast, Our Lady of Sorrows: 15 September The Mountain and its surroundings: November
"And "Testo suddenly demo a stone demo in bloom: demo demosilence" demo" (Casimiro De Brito)
INTERESTING FACTS
Vogogna’s ancient origins are evidenced by the Celtic Mask found in the courtyard of the Oratory of San Pietro. That in the courtyard is a replica of the original housed at Palazzo Pretorio, which dates back to the 1st century B.C. and is considered to be one of Piedmont’s most important specimens of Celtic art. The mask depicts a male figure representing a Sylvan God: a statue of worship, perhaps positioned in a sacred forest.
"Testo demo demo demo demo demo"
ORTA SAN GIULIO COMUNE PROVINCIA NOVARA (NO) (....) ALTITUDE 294 m.a.s.l. INHABITANTS 1,100 TOURISM INFO IAT Via Panoramica Tel. +39 0322 90516 [comune.ortasangiulio.no.it]
ORTA SAN GIULIO THE WATERCOLOURS OF GOD
ORTA SAN GIULIO CAN BE REACHED FROM NOVARA IN 46' VOGOGNA IN 42'
No, God didn’t set about painting with watercolours on the eighth day of the Creation: Orta overlooks the lake, and the water reflects, amplifies, and illuminates the slate roofs, the alleyways, and the stone roadways that descend down to the waterfront. The result is an extraordinary lighting effect on certain winter days and summer mornings, with the mist rising up around the island of San Giulio, making it look like Avalon: the enchanted island of Morgana and Arthur. Today the island is inhabited by Benedictine nuns.
DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 2 km NOVARA Caltignaga Momo Cressa–Fontaneto Borgomanero Gozzano Orta–Miasino Pettenasco Omegna Gravellona Toce Ornavasso Cuzzago Premosello–Chiovenda VOGOGNA OSSOLA 29
CENNI STORICI HISTORICAL NOTES 390 Christianity was brought to the Riviera by the brothers Julius and Julian.
Thanks to an agreement between the Regional Passengers Division and FIAB, regional transport customers are offered a minimum discount of 10% at the hotel facilities belonging to the Albergabici circuit.
1219 The Riviera fell under the control of the Bishops and Counts of Novara. 1345 The small republic of the Riviera D’Orta was established, which remained autonomous and democratic until 1753. 1524 The town was plundered by the House of Sforza. 1861 The Riviera became part of the Kingdom of Italy. ORIGINS OF THE NAME The lake’s Latin name was Cusius, after its first inhabitants: the Usii. During the middle ages it came to be known as Lago di San Giulio, in honour of the St. Julius. The name Orta is derived from the Latin term hortus conclusus, meaning “enclosed garden”. 30
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
Orta’s liver mortadella has ancient origins, and is available in both cured and cooked varieties. In the cured variety the liver is broken down into a coarsegrained mixture, and is combined with lean pork, pancetta, flavouring, lemon, red wine, after which it is bagged and seasoned. The cooked variety consists of a finer-grained mixture, and is excellent with polenta. EVENTS Patronal feast, St. Julius: 31 January Peregrinatio, on the trails of the ancient pilgrims: first Saturday in June Cusian Festival of Ancient music: June Orta Opera Festival: July Christmas on the lake: throughout December, until Epiphany
Planning your bike vacation has never been easier. Decide how far you want to pedal after getting off the train, and discover all the Albergabici affiliated accommodations along your selected route, including hotels, B&Bs, and campgrounds.
"Testo demo demo demo demo demo" Il Giardino sul Lago Amico della Bicicletta Via Giovanetti, 52 28016 Orta San Giulio (NO) Tel. +39 3337596149
INTERESTING FACTS
Legend has it that, while walking along the shores of the lake, Julius noticed a small island inhabited by dragons and snakes. Unable to obtain a ride by boat, he laid his cloak upon the water, climbed on top of it, and made his way to the island (in fact, sailing and rowing are still commonly practised on the lake to this day). For the record, however, Julius slew the monsters and built the basilica, where his body was entombed.
"...a delightful "Testo little lake... demo demo at thedemo foot of Monte demoRosa..." demo" (HonorĂŠ de(Autore, Balzac,0000) 1838)
MOMBALDONE COMUNE Nome PROVINCIA ASTI (AT) Nome (....) ALTITUDE 260 m.a.s.l. INHABITANTS 234 TOURISM INFO Town Hall Tel. +39 0144 950680 [comune.mombaldone.at.it]
MOMBALDONE A MEDIEVAL OASIS AMONG THE BADLANDS MOMBALDONE CAN BE REACHED FROM ALESSANDRIA IN 60' S. GIUSEPPE DI CAIRO IN 30'
Mombaldone lies nestled among the badlands, like an oasis in a desert of tuff speckled with broom, and is the only town of the Asti hills that’s still surrounded by its original walls. With its elegant pointed arch, the village’s ancient entry gate remains exactly as it was during the middle ages. The main road branches off into little alleyways and passages, arches and courtyards that allow visitors to take a trip into the past.
DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 550 m ALESSANDRIA Borgoratto Cassine Strevi Acqui Terme Terzo Bistagno Ponti Montechiaro Denice Mombaldone-Roccaverano Spigno Merana Piana Dego Rocchetta Cairo Cairo Montenotte S. GIUSEPPE DI CAIRO 35
HISTORICAL NOTES
6th-7th CENT. Mombaldone was controlled by the Lombards. 991 The place name was mentioned for the first time in the founding act of the Abbey of S. Quintino in Spigno Monferrato. 1382 Amadeus VI of Savoy became lord of the fiefdom of Mombaldone. 1706-1708 The feudal estate was confirmed to the House of Savoy, and a lengthy period of peace ensued. 1799 Napoleon wrought death and devastation. ORIGINE DEL NOME Mombaldone is derived from Mons Baldus, from the Germanic term bald, meaning “mountain”. 36
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
Goats and rams graze on shrubs and aromatic plants among the badlands of Mombaldone. The milk, cheeses and meats of this land have a particular flavour. Local delicacies include the traditional salami (bichiré), Langa kid, fat mutton roast, tripe or boiled meat in green sauce (bagnét), robiola Dop of Roccaverano and Canelli and Alba wines. EVENTS The Feast of Fritters: last Sunday in May Historia Montis Baudonis: last weekend of August Patronal feast, Madonna del Tovetto and Feria Española: 8 September Music in Mombaldone: late August - early September The Fat Mutton Festival: 2 October
"A "Testo rusticdemo little square, demo a demo day ofdemo celebration" demo" (Guido Piovene)
INTERESTING FACTS
There are sixteen villages in the Asti hills, a land of towers, forests, vineyards, and meadows, all lying amid Piedmont and Liguria, the plains and the Apennines, the hills and the seaside. Be sure to visit Roccaverano: surrounded by green valleys, farmhouses, and pastureland, it boasts one of the most beautiful squares in the entire region, complete with a splendid bramantesque parish church. This land offers various sports activities, including trekking and canoeing on the Bormida river, and relaxing at Aqui Terme.
"Testo demo demo demo demo demo" (Autore, 0000)
LIGURIA
LAIGUEGLIA, BORGIO VEREZZI, FINALBORGO, CAMPO LIGURE, MONEGLIA, VERNAZZA
LAIGUEGLIA SAVONA (SV) ALTITUDE 308 m.a.s.l. INHABITANTS 1,956 TOURISM INFO IAT Via Roma Tel. +39 0182 690059 [comune.laigueglia.sv.it]
LAIGUEGLIA THE TOWN SQUARE BY THE SEA
LAIGUEGLIA CAN BE REACHED FROM SAVONA IN 1H TAGGIA ARMA IN 26'
The history of this seaside village is linked to the various attacks suffered by the Saracens: the characteristic architecture of its historic centre is owed precisely to that period of invasions, with the small seaside squares built for displaying the merchandise, and the arches, vaults, and characteristic alleyways designed for defensive purposes, together with the sixteenth-century bastion. Every summer a historical re-enactment commemorates the attacks of the Arab corsairs, complete with simulated battles and fireworks over the sea.
DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 550 m SAVONA Quiliano Spotorno–Noli Finale Ligure Marina Borgio Verezzi Pietra Ligure Loano Borghetto S. Spirito Ceriale Albenga Alassio Laigueglia Andora Diano Imperia TAGGIA ARMA 43
HISTORICAL NOTES
1130 First mention of the place name, of Roman origins. 16th CENT. Invasions by the Saracens repeatedly threatened the village. 1672 Laigueglia and Alassio support the Republic of Genoa in the war against the House of Savoy. 1745 During the War of the Austrian Succession, Laigueglia remained loyal to Genoa. ORIGINS OF THE NAME The name is derived from Aquilia, indicating the Roman origins of the place; the village likely arose with the arrival of soldiers under the banner of the eagle, during the wars against the tribes of Liguria. 44
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
Baci di Laigueglia, sweets made with almond, hazelnut and chocolate cream; and gobeletti, short pastry sweets made with jam. EVENTS Trofeo Laigueglia, international cycling race: February Jazz Festival: last week of June The Landing of the Saracens, historical commemoration: July-August Patronal feast, St. Matthew: 21 September The Festival of St. Matthew: September
"The sea has no roads" (Alessandro Baricco)
INTERESTING FACTS
While Laigueglia was once a modest fishing village, it became a thriving town thanks to coral fishing: an activity that was mainly carried out during the seventeenth and the eighteenth centuries. There were over one hundred feluccas equipped for these purposes, known as fregate, all of which would depart together to form a fleet, which in turn was protected against pirates by an armed galley.
BORGIO VEREZZI SAVONA (SV) ALTITUDE 200 m.a.s.l. INHABITANTS 2,400 TOURISM INFO Tel. +39 019 618227 [comune.borgio-verezzi. savona.it] DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 1.1 km
BORGIO VEREZZI THE THEATRE OF WONDERS BORGIO VEREZZI CAN BE REACHED FROM SAVONA IN 23' VENTIMIGLIA IN 1H30'
Legend has it that the town was founded by Saracen pirates who, having fallen in love with the area, would abandon their raiding parties to retire on the mainland. In fact, the Arab Corsairs had a major influence upon this village, where pink stone alternates with white terraces, visible gardens, and lush vegetation. Verezzi is known for the theatrical Festival held every summer, which is attended by all the great names of the Italian theatre.
SAVONA Quiliano Spotorno – Noli Finale Ligure Marina Borgio Verezzi Pietra Ligure Loano Borghetto S. Spirito Ceriale Albenga Alassio Laigueglia Andora Diano Imperia Taggia arma Sanremo Bordighera Vallecrosia VENTIMIGLIA 49
HISTORICAL NOTES
about 800 A.D. Presence of Benedictine monks at a monastery in the village. 1385 Borgio and Verezzi were relinquished to the Republic of Genoa. 1815 Liguria was incorporated into Piedmont, part of the Kingdom of Sardinia. 1933 Borgio and Verezzi were united to form a single municipality. ORIGINS OF THE NAME Borgio is derived from the Latin burgus, meaning settlement, while Verezzi comes from Veletiis, likely of pre-Roman origins, the meaning of which has been lost over time.
50
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
In addition to capers, the farmers of Verezzi also cultivate grapevines to produce delicious local wines, such as Lumassina, Nostralino Veretium, and the less common Barbarossa. The olive groves produce an excellent extra-virgin olive oil. EVENTS Borgio Verezzi Theatre Festival: July-August Snail Festival: 13-14 August Patronal feast, St. Martin: 11 November Torchlight Procession and Nativity Scene: Christmas period
"...picturesque beauty, worthy of a postcard" (Massimo Quaini)
INTERESTING FACTS
All the big names of Italian theatre have participated in the Borgio Verezzi Theatre Festival, including Vittorio Gassman, Giorgio Albertazzi, Monica Guerritore, and Mariangela Melato. The natural scenery of Piazza Sant’Agostino, overlooking the sea, has hosted the famous cultural festival on summer nights ever since 1967.
FINALBORGO SAVONA (SV) ALTITUDE 0-300 m.a.s.l. INHABITANTS 12,300 TOURISM INFO Tourism Information Office Tel. +39 019 680954 [turismo.comunefinale ligure.it/ it/finalborgo]
FINALBORGO THE AIR OF THE MARQUIS
FINALE LIGURE MARINA CAN BE REACHED FROM SAVONA IN 14' TAGGIA ARMA IN 1H04'
The air in Finalborgo has a hint of iodine, rosemary and thyme. It’s an air of nobility: it was the capital of the Marquisate of Finale and, to spite the Genoese, was a free port for the Spaniards, who left behind monuments and portals of slate. The alleyways and buildings of Finalborgo exude the air of a glorious past: in fact, there’s even a church with a clock whose hours are marked in reverse. Although perched up high to defend itself against the Saracens, the town was forced to surrender to the much-despised Genoese, who still have a poor reputation throughout the province of Savona to his day.
DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 1.5 km SAVONA Quiliano Spotorno–Noli Finale Ligure Marina Borgio Verezzi Pietra Ligure Loano Borghetto S. Spirito Ceriale Albenga Alassio Laigueglia Andora Diano Imperia TAGGIA ARMA 55
HISTORICAL NOTES 12th CENT. The village was established by Marquis Enrico I Del Carretto, known as the Guercio. 1598-1713 This was the prosperous period of Spanish rule. 1713 The Marquisate was relinquished to Genoa, ending an era of prosperity. 1795 With the arrival of the French, the Marquisate was abolished, and Finale suffered the same fate as the Ligurian Republic and, ultimately, the House of Savoy and the Kingdom of Italy. ORIGINS OF THE NAME The place name is derived from the Latin Burgum Finarii, denoting its status as a border land during Roman times, and during its control by the Del Carretto marquis from the 14th to the 16th century. 56
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
Visitors to Finalborgo can enjoy real artisan beer at the locales where it is produced and served directly to customers. Craft businesses, passion, and even a Festival in August, all dedicated to the beverage of the goddess Ceres. EVENTS Patronal feast, St. Blaise: 3 February Riviera of the Theatres: Prose season Music Programmes: Symphony season Agri-Food Exhibition: March Festival of Rebellion: June (info available at www.festainquietudine.it) Festival of the Marquisate, medieval commemoration: July Beer in the Village, Beer Festival: August
"The faint and pulsing motion of the sea" (Eugenio Montale)
INTERESTING FACTS
The Archaeological Museum of Finale houses the famous tomb of the Young Prince, a hunter who lived 24 thousand years ago, and was buried in Arene Candide Cave. A reconstruction of his face revealed a physiognomy typical of Asian populations, bearing striking similarities to skulls of the same period found in Sunghir, Russia. A sign of a common human and cultural identity extending over a widespread area between the Mediterranean and Moldova. Who were these people and how did they travel? A fascinating archaeological mystery.
CAMPO LIGURE GENOVA (GE) ALTITUDE 342 m.a.s.l. INHABITANTS 3,057 TOURISM INFO IAT Via della Giustizia, 5 Tel. +39 010 921055 [comune.campo-ligure. ge.it]
CAMPO LIGURE THE FINE ART OF FILIGREE
CAMPO LIGURE CAN BE REACHED FROM GENOVA IN 40' ACQUI TERME IN 35'
The beauty of this village is to be observed in... filigree. In fact, it’s one of Europe’s main production centres of gold and silver filigree. There are still more or less a dozen workshops dedicated to this art, which has been handed down for generations since 1884. This is the period in which the first figures of the great mechanised nativity scene were made, which consists of hundreds of figures displayed over an area of 70 m2 at the Oratory of Saints Sebastian and Roch during each Christmas season.
DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 800 m GENOVA PRINCIPE Genova Samp. Genova Borzoli Genova Costa Genova Granara Genova Acquasanta Mele Campo Ligure Rossiglione Ovada Molare Prasco – Cremolino Visone AQUI TERME 61
HISTORICAL NOTES
3rd CENT. First Roman encampment, hence the name Campo. 1329 The village was a small feudal estate of the Holy Roman Empire, independent of the Republic of Genoa. 1740-1748 During the War of the Austrian Succession, Campo sided with the Empire and the House of Savoy against the French and Genoa. 1884 The village assumed the name Campo Ligure. ORIGINS OF THE NAME The original name of Campofreddo, as the town was known in the late 17th century, came from the Latin campus, meaning “encampment”, and freddo, derived from “feudal”. 62
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
Chestnuts, polenta, milk and cheeses. The culinary tradition is linked to that of the Ligurian Apennine farmers. Fresh milk and the typical cornmeal focaccia bread, known as revezora, can still be purchased on the streets of the village today. EVENTS Itinerant concert: Saturdays in mid-July Patronal feast, Saint Mary Magdalene: 22 July Campofestival: first weekend of August Camingiando: last Sunday in August Annual Filigree Exhibition: September
"Shade and sun alternate through those deep valleys" (Vincenzo Cardarelli)
INTERESTING FACTS
The Filigree museum features about two hundred rare specimens from countries on four different continents, each of which embodies the traditions, customs, religion, and economy of its place of origin. It’s a truly one-of-a-kind museum. Allow yourself to be captivated by the detail of the filigree workmanship, which will be sure to impress even the youngest visitors.
MONEGLIA GENOVA (GE) ALTITUDE 4 m.a.s.l. INHABITANTS 2,800 TOURISM INFO [comune.moneglia.ge.it] DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 800 m
MONEGLIA A GEM NESTLED BETWEEN TWO BELL TOWERS
MONEGLIA CAN BE REACHED FROM GENOVA IN 1H08' LA SPEZIA IN 50'
Nestled between the sea and the hillside on the one hand, and between two bell towers on the other: that of the Church of San Giorgio in the west, and that of the Church of Santa Croce in the east. Up until the modern era, the village was divided into two districts by a creek (later covered), each of which had its own church and cemetery... The question of whether the Church of San Giorgio or that of Santa Croce is more beautiful still remains a topic of debate among the locals. It’s hard to say!
GENOVA PRINCIPE Bogliasco Pieve Ligure Recco Camogli-S. Fruttuoso S. Margherita Ligure Rapallo Chiavari Lavagna Sestri Levante Riva Trigoso Moneglia Deiva Marina Framura Bonassola Levanto Monterosso Vernazza Corniglia Manarola Riomaggiore LA SPEZIA C.LE 67
HISTORICAL NOTES
4th CENT. A road map from the Roman Empire indicates the place name Monilia. 5th-16th CENT. During the Middle Ages and throughout the sixteenth century, Moneglia’s destiny was linked to that of the Republic of Genoa, to which it provided sailors and captains. 1815 Moneglia was incorporated into the Kingdom of Sardinia, and later into the Kingdom of Italy. ORIGINS OF THE NAME According to an account from 1537, the village was given the Latin name Monilia, meaning precious jewels, due to the abundance of local fruit trees and the pleasant surrounding hills.
68
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
The locally-produced extra virgin olive oil has been awarded the Dop Riviera di Levante designation. Several villages in the Moneglia area, like Morteo, Crova, and La Marine, produce a good white wine that’s excellent with trenette pasta with pesto. EVENTS Olive Oil Fair: Easter Monday Yellow Festival: first week of July Patronal feast, Exaltation of the Holy Cross: 14 September Christmas Enchantment: From 20 to 31 December
"Here the sea rises up rocks and cliffs with its breath" (Francesco Biamonti)
INTERESTING FACTS
The blue of the sea in front, the greenery of the mountains behind, and all kinds of art in between: like the elegant and musical verses of Felice Romani, the librettist of Rossini, Donizetti and Bellini. And the paintings of Luca Cambiaso, a great mannerist artist with Michelangelo-like qualities.
VERNAZZA LA SPEZIA (SP) ALTITUDE 0-800 m.a.s.l. INHABITANTS 800 TOURISM INFO Town Hall Tel. +39 0187 821247 [comune.vernazza.sp.it] DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 250 m
VERNAZZA AMID THE BEAUTY OF THE CINQUE TERRE
VERNAZZA CAN BE REACHED FROM GENOVA IN 1H50' LA SPEZIA IN 22'
Vernazza is one of the pearls of the Cinque Terre. A seaside village centred around a marina, with narrow alleyways to trap invaders and pour boiling oil on them from the tower-houses above. The houses painted in bright colours so the sailors would be able to recognise them from afar. Not to mention the dry stone walls, the olive trees, and the splendid flowers. In 2013, the New York Times ranked it eighteenth among its places to visit around the world (just for some perspective, Paris ranked forty-sixth that year).
GENOVA PRINCIPE Bogliasco Pieve Ligure Recco Camogli-S. Fruttuoso S. M. Ligure-Portofino Rapallo Chiavari Sestri Levante Riva Trigoso Moneglia Deiva Marina Framura Bonassola Levanto Monterosso Vernazza Corniglia Manarola Riomaggiore LA SPEZIA C.LE 73
HISTORICAL NOTES
1080 First reference made to the village. 1207 The Lords of Vernazza subjugate themselves to Genoa. 1874 The Genoa-La Spezia railway line disrupts the town’s centuries of isolation. 1997 Vernazza is declared a World Heritage Site by Unesco. 1999 The Cinque Terre National Park is established. ORIGINS OF THE NAME From the Latin verna, meaning “indigenous”. The town’s name is therefore derived from its most famous product, the local wine called Vernaccia. 74
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
DOC wine: the Cinque Terre white wine and Schiacchetrà, the most famous passito in all of Italy, with an extremely limited production. Not to mention the DOP extra virgin olive oil and fragrant lemons. EVENTS Patronal feast, Saint Margaret: 20 July Cinque Terre Park Festival: July-August Festival at the Sanctuary of Reggio: first Sunday in August Festival at the Sanctuary of San Bernardino: 8 September
"Silver-tipped waves reached towards the sky..." (Francesco Biamonti)
INTERESTING FACTS
From Vernazza’s main square, which the locals refer to as the salotto (the “living room”), visitors can embark on some of the most beautiful trails in the Cinque Terre. Including the 2 km trail that leads up to the 11th century sanctuary of the Madonna di Reggio, with its black Madonna (a representation of the Virgin Mary with the baby Jesus said to have been brought back from the Crusades).
TRENTINO ALTO ADIGE VIPITENO, CHIUSA, EGNA
VIPITENO BOLZANO (BZ) ALTITUDE 948 m.a.s.l. ABITANTI 5,780
VIPITENO
TOURISM INFO Tourism Association Piazza Città, 3 Tel. +39 0472 765325 business hours 8:30 a.m. - 12 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. - 6 p.m. [vipiteno.eu]
TIME STANDING STILL ON THE TORRE DELLE DODICI
VIPITENO CAN BE REACHED FROM BRENNERO IN 18' BOLZANO IN 60'
Visitors are always greeted with a glass of wine and two slices of speck, because hospitality has been a way of life here since as far back as 1280, when the walls were built and the village was elevated to the rank of town. The hotel business has always flourished since those days, thanks to the passage of pilgrims and merchants along the Brenner road. Vipiteno’s Civic Tower - also known as the Torre delle Dodici (the “Twelve O’Clock Tower”) marks the line where the town is divided into two districts: the Old Town and the New Town.
DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 800 m BRENNERO Colle Isarco Vipiteno Campo di Trens Fortezza Bressanone Chiusa Ponte Gardena BOLZANO 81
HISTORICAL NOTES
15 B.C. The Roman garrison of Vipitenum was established. 1280 The village was elevated to the rank of town, and the walls were built. 15th-16th CENT. The period during which the town enjoyed its greatest prosperity, thanks to the silver and lead mines. 1867 The opening of the Brenner Railway brought tourism, and therefore new sources of income. 1919 Annexation of the AltoAdige region to Italy. ORIGINS OF THE NAME From the Latin name of the Roman encampment of VibidĂna, recorded as Uuipitina in 827. 82
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
Milk, butter and yoghurt produced by the well-known Latteria sociale di Vipiteno, one of the oldest and most traditional dairies in the Alto-Adige region, operating since 1884. Not to mention the speck and mushrooms. EVENTS Patronal feast, St. Sebastian: 20 January Palm Procession: Palm Sunday Yoghurt Days: early July - late August Party under the Lanterns: Wednesdays during July and August Dumpling Festival: September Christmas Market: late November - early January
"...where the sky ...stretched out on the mountain" (Boris Vian)
INTERESTING FACTS
Legend has it that a pilgrim and vagabond named Störz, who often stayed at inns, was the modern city’s first inhabitant. He is depicted on the city’s coat of arms, under the wings of the Tyrolean Eagle, symbolising Vipiteno’s hospitality.
CHIUSA BOLZANO (BZ) ALTITUDE 523 m.a.s.l. INHABITANTS 5,135 TOURISM INFO Tourism Association Piazza Mercato, 1 Tel. +39 0472 847424 [comune.chiusa.bz.it]
CHIUSA THE TOWN OF ARTISTS ON THE EISACK RIVER
CHIUSA CAN BE REACHED FROM BRENNERO IN 54' BOLZANO IN 22'
It has the narrow alleyways of a medieval village, and a typical Alto-Adige atmosphere. But in Chiusa, there’s something special in the air: from the late nineteenth to early twentieth century, hundreds of artists came here (especially Germans), attracted by its link to Walther, a lyrical poet from the Middle Ages. A sort of Teutonic Dante Alighieri, who some nineteenth century scholars believed was born in Chiusa! Since then it has been known as la cittadina degli artisti (“the town of the artists”).
DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 900 m BRENNERO Colle Isarco Vipiteno Campo di Trens Fortezza Bressanone Chiusa Ponte Gardena BOLZANO 87
HISTORICAL NOTES
1027 First mention of the village. 1308 Chiusa was referred to for the first time as a stadt, meaning “town”. 1350-1550 The town enjoyed its greatest period of prosperity thanks to the local commerce. 1867 A period of prosperity and tourism began after the inauguration of the Brenner Railway. 1874-1914 Over 300 artists flock to Chiusa, resulting in its nickname Cittadina degli artisti (the “Town of the Artists”). ORIGINS OF THE NAME Chiusa owes its name to the narrow natural passage formed between the cliff of Sabiona, the river Eisack, and the Tinne torrent. 88
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
The German term strudel means “vortex”, because inside the best known version of this spiral of dough (sweet or savoury) is an irresistible mix of apples, pine nuts, raisins, and cinnamon. This recipe has ancient origins, dating back to the eighth century, during the era of the Assyrians. EVENTS Contemporary art exhibitions: from March to November Cultural summer: from July to September Törggelen: crafts fair, last two Saturdays of September and first Saturday in October Patronal feast, St. Andrew: 30 November Medieval Christmas: from Friday to Sunday during Advent
"The mountains are silent masters..." (Johann Wolfgang von Goethe)
INTERESTING FACTS
Chiusa serves as the backdrop for the engraving titled Nemesis (The Great Fortune) by Albrecht DĂźrer, who stayed in the village during his trip to Italy in 1494. The work depicts the Greek deity Nemesis, who, naked and winged, stands atop a globe, suspended in the clouds above a landscape identified as the town of Chiusa. For this reason the town is also known as the Town of DĂźrer.
EGNA BOLZANO (BZ) ALTITUDE 214 m.a.s.l. INHABITANTS 5,028 TOURISM INFO Castelfeder Tourism Association Piazza Principale, 5 Tel. +39 0471 810231 [info@castelfeder.info] [castelfeder.info]
EGNA THE PORTICOES OF THE MARKET TOWN EGNA CAN BE REACHED FROM BOLZANO IN 24' TRENTO IN 28'
The town of Egna has been visited by Dürer and Mozart, and their passage left their mark on this medieval village surrounded by vineyards and apple trees. Thanks to trade between the north and south, Egna was the region’s most important river port from the 14th to the 18th century, and during that time the characteristic porticoes were occupied by boutiques and shops (Ballhaus). One of these is now home to the municipal library.
Comune Town Hall 7 Tel. +39 0471 829111 [comune.egna.bz.it]
DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 2 km BOLZANO Laives Bronzolo Ora Egna Magrè Salorno Mezzocorona Lavis TRENTO 93
HISTORICAL NOTES
3rd CENT. The place name was already documented during the Roman era. 1309 Economic and urbanistic development of the village up until the 18th century, thanks to trade. 1494 The town is visited by Albrecht Dürer. 1769 Thirteen-year-old Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart stayed with his father, Leopold, at the Corona Hotel, which no longer exists today. ORIGINS OF THE NAME The name is derived from the Endidae mansio, a small Roman settlement located along the Via Claudia Augusta. 94
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
The grapes from the hamlet of Mazzon are used to produce an exceptional Blauburgunder (Pinot Noir). In addition to the wine, the Adige plains and the hills around Egna are known for their apples. EVENTS Spring Festival: May Alto-Adige days of Pinot Noir: May Laubenfest, or Festa dei Portici (“Festival of the Porticoes”): early August Autumn Festival: September Patronal feast, St. Nicholas: 6 December
"The mountains are always generous" (Tiziano Terzani)
INTERESTING FACTS
The architectural structure of the Domus Mansio Endidae, the ancient post-station along the Via Claudia Augusta (documented as early as the 3rd century A.D.), is the same as that of the Kloesterle Hospice, built ten centuries later in the village of San Floriano. Both buildings served the same purpose: to accommodate wayfarers and pilgrims. In fact, Egna’s prosperity has been linked to the transit of goods and more or less illustrious individuals.
VENETO MONTAGNANA
MONTAGNANA PADUA (PD) ALTITUDE 16 m.a.s.l. INHABITANTS 9,358 TOURISM INFO Town Hall Via Carrarese, 14 Tel. +39 0429 81247 comune.montagnana.pd.it
MONTAGNANA THE WALLS OF GIORGIONE
MONTAGNANA CAN BE REACHED FROM MANTOVA IN 1H10' MONSELICE IN 25'
Montagnana is Italy’s most important example of a medieval fortress. The walls were built during the 14th century by the noble Carraresi family of Padua in order to frustrate the hostile intentions of the Scaliger family. These noble families of Padua and Verona, who are still feuding to this day, took control of the town from one another several times throughout its history. Giorgione portrayed the walls in his sanguine drawing at the Boymans-Van Beuningen Museum in Rotterdam. After taking the tour of the walls, be sure to stop to enjoy a panino with prosciutto crudo.
DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 900 m MANTOVA Gazzo di Bigarello Castel d’Ario Bonferraro Nogara Sanguinetto Cerea Legnago Boschi S. Anna Bevilacqua Montagnana Saletto Ospedaletto Euganeo Este MONSELICE 101
HISTORICAL NOTES
1242 Ezzelino III da Romano, vicar of the Emperor Frederick II, took possession of Montagnana.
Thanks to an agreement between the Regional Passengers Division and FIAB, regional transport customers are offered a minimum discount of 10% at the hotel facilities belonging to the Albergabici circuit.
1362 The Carraresi family completed the city walls during their feud with Verona. 1405 Montagnana was given to Venice. 1797 When Venice fell, Montagnana fell under Lombard-Veneto control. ORIGINS OF THE NAME Motta Aeniana, from which Montagnana came, is derived from Motta, which in medieval Latin meant a small hill, and Aeniana, in reference to a Mansio (post station) called Anneianum. 102
Planning your bike vacation has never been easier.
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
The prosciutto crudo dolce di Montagnana, DOP since 1996, is worked and seasoned according to tradition, and has a sweet and smooth flavour thanks to the masterful dosing of the salt. To be tried with the local cantaloupe. EVENTS Prosciutto Crudo Festival: May Patronal Feast, St. Mary of the Assumption: 15 August Palio of the Ten Municipalities of the Montagnana area: September The Montagnanese Exhibition: October Antiques and Collectables Market: every third Sunday of the month
Decide how far you want to pedal after getting off the train, and discover all the Albergabici affiliated accommodations along your selected route, including hotels, B&Bs, and campgrounds. Bed and Bike Belfiore Amico della Bicicletta Via Belfiore, 2 35044 Montagnana (PD) Tel. +39 3917278138
INTERESTING FACTS
The heart of the town is Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, embellished with grey trachyte paving stones from the Euganean Hills, with white stone inserts, which resemble the ancient flooring of St. Mark’s Square. Not only that, Venice authorised the construction of a column in the square with a stone lion, which remained there until the arrival of Napoleon, when the lion was demolished to make room for the tree of freedom.
"It rises suddenly from the flat plain, among the rows of trees" (Guido Piovene)
FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA VENZONE
Ut pe nobitatusam vendia int ra peles consect oritatia am, cum et antur? Ant velendion re et od eicitatum res nonsed qui re sim faci blaborior as nus doluptur, non evel is nonsedigenit que ne voluptas et as dit at etur aut porem qui int.
VENZONE UDINE (UD) ALTITUDE 230 m.a.s.l. INHABITANTS 2,200 TOURISM INFO IAT Via Glizoio di Mels, 5/4 Tel./Fax +39 0432 985034 [prolocovenzone.it]
VENZONE A JOURNEY AMID GOLDEN SQUASH AND MEDIEVAL MUMMIES
VENZONE CAN BE REACHED FROM TRIESTE IN 1H44'
Destroyed by the Friuli earthquake of 1976, and successfully rebuilt, Venzone is a fourteenth-century fortified village that’s home to a famous Pumpkin Festival at the end of October, and can even be reached via a special historical train with a steam locomotive from the 1930s. But there are also mummies dating back to an era between the 14th and 19th centuries. The mummies, which even Napoleon wanted to go and see, are perfectly preserved.
DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 700 m TRIESTE CENTRALE Monfalcone Cervignano – Aquileia Palmanova Cormons Udine Tricesimo Tarcento Artegna Gemona del Friuli VENZONE 109
HISTORICAL NOTES
776-952 The first settlement was established under Carolingian rule. 1420 Friuli was subjugated to Venice. 1965 Venzone was declared a National Monument, being the only fourteenth-century fortified village in the Region. 1976 A series of seismic events destroyed the entire village, along with much of the Friuli region. 1995 The town’s stone-by-stone reconstruction was completed. ORIGINS OF THE NAMEIl The name’s pre-Latin origins are derived from av-au – flusslauf (meaning “waterway”), and therefore from the name of the torrent Venzonassa. 110
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
Venzone is the cradle of lavender, which is cultivated and marketed there. With its beautiful appearance and pleasant fragrance, lavender has rebalancing, anti-rheumatic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, healing, and relaxing properties. EVENTS Markets in the village: January-December The Meeting of European Parks - Parkfest: May Gjgj Moret International Organistic Exhibition: Saturdays in September Pumpkin Festival: fourth weekend in October Patronal feast, St. Andrew: 30 November Flavours of Venzone: November-December
"Alpine Italy with a Neo-Latin appeal" (Pier Paolo Pasolini)
INTERESTING FACTS
It’s called the hunchback due to its evident physical deformity, which was likely caused by improper burial, and it’s the oldest mummy (from 1647) among the five preserved at the cemetery Chapel of San Michele. The remains date back to an era ranging from 1348 to 1881. The natural mummification is due to the presence of Hypha Bombicina, a mould that dehydrates the tissue, inhibiting its decomposition.
EMILIA ROMAGNA BRISIGHELLA
BRISIGHELLA RAVENNA (RA) ALTITUDE 115 m.a.s.l. INHABITANTS 7,490 INFO TURISMO IAT Piazzetta Porta Gabolo, 5 Tel./Fax +39 0546 81166 [comune.brisighella.ra.it] [iat.brisighella@racine.ra.it]
[terredifaenza.it] [brisighella.org]
BRISIGHELLA THE CITY OF THE THREE HILLS
BRISIGHELLA CAN BE REACHED FROM BORGO S. LORENZO IN 60' FAENZA IN 10'
Rome has seven hills, and Brisighella only has three, but it has occupied diligently: on the first stands a 13th century Fortress, on the second stands an 18th century Sanctuary, and the third features a magnificent Clock Tower. And above all there’s Via degli Asini (the “Donkey Road”), which is one of its kind on a worldwide scale. It’s the first known raised road originally built within a defensive wall structure to have later been used as a pathway for donkeys transporting gypsum.
DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 500 m BORGO S. LORENZO Ronta Crespino del Lamone Biforco Marradi – Palazzuolo Popolano di Marradi S. Martino in Gattara S. Cassiano Strada Casale Fognano Brisighella FAENZA 117
HISTORICAL NOTES 1290 Construction of a small fortress atop a gypsum stone peak at the entrance to the Lamone Valley. 1410 Brisighella became the capital of the Lamone Valley. 1509-1860 Aside from the Napoleonic pause, Brisighella belonged to the Papal State. 1944-45 The town was a centre of the resistance, and witnessed various clashes between partisans and Nazi-fascists. ORIGINS OF THE NAME Possibly from the Celtic brix (meaning “steep place”), from the Latin brisca (meaning “spongy ground”, due to the gypsum stone in the terrain), or from brassica (meaning “cabbage”, a plant formerly found throughout the area). 118
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
Brisighella extra virgin olive oil, which has been cultivated for 2000 years, DOP since 1996. Truffles and Mora Romagnola cracklings; not to mention the Volpina Pear, an ancient variety that’s cooked in Sangiovese wine and is enjoyed with the local cheese seasoned in the caves of gypsum stone. EVENTS Charcuterie Competition and Seasoned Charcuterie Festival: April Festival of the Moretto Artichoke: May Medieval Festivals: June-July Patronal feast, St. Michael: 29 September Le delizie del porcello (pork festival): first Sunday in November Truffle Festival: third Sunday in November Olive and Olive Oil festival: fourth Sunday in November
"Sunny Romagna, sweet country" (Giovanni Pascoli)
INTERESTING FACTS
Thanks to the presence of the Vena del Gesso Romagnola mountain range, which runs parallel to the Via Emilia and the Apennine Ridge, Brisighella and the entire Lamone Valley have a unique microclimate, with an average temperature that’s a full three degrees higher than the surrounding areas. This is due to the gypsum stone of which the mountain is comprised, which accumulates heat during the summer and subsequently dissipates it during the winter. That’s why the olives and extra virgin olive oils from this area are some of Italy’s most prized.
TUSCANY BUONCONVENTO
BUONCONVENTO SIENA (SI) ALTITUDE 145 m.a.s.l. INHABITANTS 3,150 TOURISM INFO Municipal Tourism Office Tel. +39 0577 809737 [museisenesi.org]
BUONCONVENTO THE COLOURS OF EARTHENWARE TILE AND THE CRETE SENESI
BUONCONVENTO CAN BE REACHED FROM SIENA IN 28' GROSSETO IN 1H09'
Immersed within the Crete Senesi, along the ancient Via Francigena, as its name implies, Buon Convento remains a place of hospitality for pilgrims making their way to Rome, just like in the past. Having historically served as a fortified outpost for the Municipality of Siena, the village is surrounded by ancient walls made from dark red bricks. A colour that’s the town’s calling card, as recalled by Boccaccio in the Decameron novella dedicated to Sienese poet Cecco Angiolieri.
DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 450 m SIENA Ponte a Tressa Monteroni d’Arbia Buonconvento Monte Antico Civitella Roccastrada Sticciano Montepescali GROSSETO 125
HISTORICAL NOTES
1100 First historical records of the town. 1371 The construction of the walls was begun, later to be completed 1383. 1480 The inhabitants of Buonconvento are granted Sienese citizenship. 1559 With the fall of the Republic of Siena, the town became part of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany, under the Medici. ORIGINS OF THE NAME The name is derived from the Latin bonus conventus and means “happy/fortunate community”, likely due to the fertility of the land and the benefits of its proximity to the rivers Arbia and Ombrone. 126
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
The DOC wines, like the Val d’Arbia white variety, which is even available in a vinsanto version, and the red and white Orcia varieties. Not to mention the Crete Senesi and marzolo white truffles. And then there’s the local Chianina veal and the Cinta Senese pork. EVENTS Prima Luna d’Estate, food and wine event: third Saturday in June Patronal feast, Saints Peter and Paul: 29 June Trebbiatura sotto le mura, historical commemoration: third Sunday in July The Crete Senesi Festival: August Crete d’Autunno: November
"...land of light that never leaves my side" (Mario Luzi)
INTERESTING FACTS
Inside the art nouveau style Palazzo Ricci Socini, the Museum of Sacred Art of the Arbia Valley features major artworks from the Sienese School of the 13th-17th centuries. The monumental altarpieces from the churches of the Arbia Valley are housed in a beautiful gallery.
MARCHE GROTTAMMARE
GROTTAMMARE ASCOLI PICENO (AP) ALTITUDE 126 m.a.s.l. INHABITANTS 14,200 TOURISM INFO IAT Piazza Fazzini,6 Tel. +39 0735 631087
GROTTAMMARE THE GARDEN OF ORANGES OVERLOOKING THE SEA
GROTTAMMARE CAN BE REACHED FROM ANCONA IN 1H03' S. BENEDEETTO DEL T. IN 3'
Grottammare is famous for being the birthplace of Pope Sixtus V, for having hosted composer Franz Liszt, and for its microclimate conducive to the cultivation of citrus fruits, for which it has been known since 1371. The orange tree is even depicted on the Municipality’s coat of arms. The fragrance of oranges is even present in the Old Village, where the theatre is named after the orange tree. Amid gardens and citrus groves, the seafront is lined with a splendid row of palm trees imported from the Canary Islands during the early twentieth century. It feels like you’re in the tropics!
[comune.grottammare.ap.it]
DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 1.3 km Roma Termini ANCONA Roma Tiburtina Orte Osimo–Castelfidardo Loreto Narni-Amelia Terni Recanati Porto BaiandoPicena Potenza di Spoleto Spoleto Marche Civitanova Foligno Porto S. Elpidio SpelloS.Giorgio Porto Pedaso Assisi Bastia Cupramarittima Perugia Ponte S. Giovanni Grottammare Perugia S. BENEDETTO DEL T. 133
HISTORICAL NOTES 8th-6th CENT. B.C. First necropolis of the Picena area 1299 The expansion of the port allowed for trade to be developed. 1779 The first buildings were erected in the marina area and between the hills and the sea. 1868 Musician Franz Liszt stayed in Grottammare from July 11 to August 29 of that year. 1890 The seafront area was developed, giving rise to seaside tourism. ORIGINS OF THE NAME At the beginning of the eleventh century, the castle was indicated by the name of Grocte or Grupte, and later as Cripte or Grupte a mare. 134
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
The blond orange of the Piceno area, recently introduced among the biodiversity of the Marche region, is typical of Grottammare, which is promoting its recovery and valuation. EVENTS Patronal feast, St. Paternian: 10 July Summer in Grottammare: July-August The Holy Jubilee, historical commemoration: July Festival of San Martino: 11 November Living Nativity Scene: 26 December, 1 and 6 January
"Sloping mountains... outstretched seas" (Giosuè Carducci)
INTERESTING FACTS
The prestigious Liszt Festival, an important international showcase for virtuosos and Lisztian performers, arose in 2003. A way to honour the memory of Franz Liszt, who stayed at the eighteenth-century Palazzo Fenili during the summer of 1868. Every Sunday the Hungarian musician played the organ during mass at the Church of San Pio X, which seems to have enjoyed peak attendance precisely during that period!
UMBRIA
PASSIGNANO SUL TRASIMENO, CASTIGLIONE DEL LAGO, SPELLO
PASSIGNANO SUL TRASIMENO PERUGIA (PG) ALTITUDE 289 m.a.s.l. INHABITANTS 5,711
PASSIGNANO SUL TRASIMENO WHERE THE LAKE MEETS THE ROCK
PASSIGNANO CAN BE REACHED FROM FIRENZE IN 1H38' FOLIGNO IN 1H09'
Protected by vineyards and olive groves, Passignano, also known as “The Pearl of Lake Trasimeno”, lies on a promontory sloping towards the lake. Here the boats not only travel on the water, but also challenge each other on the streets of the village itself. In fact, during the Palio delle Barche boat competition, which commemorates the last act of hostility between the noble Baglioni and Oddi families of Perugia, the boats are loaded onto the participants’ shoulders for a fast race through the old town.
TOURISM INFO Pro Loco Passignano Tel. +39 075 0440043 [comune.passignano-sultrasimeno.pg.it]
DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 600 m FIRENZE S. M. NOVELLA Firenze Campo di Marte Figline Valdarno Montevarchi-Terranuova ArezzoTermini Roma Castiglion Fiorentino Roma Tiburtina Camucia-Cortona Orte Terontola-Cortona Narni-Amelia Passignano sul Trasimeno Terni Magionedi Spoleto Baiando Ellera-Corciano Spoleto Perugia Foligno Perugia Ponte S. Giovanni Spello Bastia Assisi Assisi Bastia Spello Ponte S. Giovanni Perugia FOLIGNO Perugia 141
HISTORICAL NOTES
217 B.C. The Roman legions escaped through the area after being defeated by Hannibal. 11th CENT. The town was subjugated to Perugia after having been fought for by the Goths, Lombards and Byzantines. 15th CENT. Clashes between the rival Oddi and Della Corgna families. 1814 The town underwent a century of decline until the dawn of the twentieth century, when it slowly began to recover. ORIGINS OF THE NAME Derived from the Latin name Passinius (or Passenius), a landowner who owned a villa there in Roman times. 142
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
Umbria is the birthplace of saffron production (dating back to the thirteenth century), and today is known for the exceptional quality of its saffron. It’s a spice that enriches entrÊes with a very personal yet enveloping and refined aromatic nuance. EVENTS Patronal feast, St. Christopher: 25 July Palio delle Barche (boat competition): last week of July International Festival of young musicians: July-August Barbarian Festival: July-August Frying Pan Festival: last week of August
"That broad sea of gold... at the foot of the mountains" (Wilhelm von Gaudy)
INTERESTING FACTS
The Boat Museum features several traditional boats from the Lake Trasimeno area. Outside, visitors can admire a reconstruction of a Barchetto del gorro (trawler) used up until the 1930s. The most important piece is the boat dug out of an oak trunk, which was found along the shores of the lake near Passignano sul Trasimeno following the dredging carried out, dating back to the 1200s.
CASTIGLIONE DEL LAGO PERUGIA (PG) ALTITUDE 210 m.a.s.l. INHABITANTS 15,493 TOURISM INFO Local Tourism Service Piazza Mazzini, 10 Tel. +39 075 9652484 [comune.castiglione-dellago.pg.it]
CASTIGLIONE DEL LAGO A FORTRESS ON A SILVER VEIL
CASTIGLIONE CAN BE REACHED FROM ROMA IN 2H08' FIRENZE IN 1H30'
The Rocca del Leone fortress, one of the best examples of the Umbrian medieval military architecture, overlooks the entire lake from atop a hill, which, in ancient times, constituted the fourth island of Lake Trasimeno. Blue is the colour of Castiglione: the pale blue of the lake, where visitors enjoy sailing, as well as the deep blue of the sky. In fact, between April and May a major international kite and hot-air balloon gathering is held, which draws enthusiasts from all over the world to the shores of Lake Trasimeno.
DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 450 m ROMA TERMINI Orte Attigliano – Bomarzo Alviano Orvieto Fabro – Ficulle Chiusi – Chianciano T. Castiglione del Lago Terontola – Cortona Camucia Castiglion Fiorentino Arezzo Firenze Campo di Marte FIRENZE S.M. NOVELLA 147
HISTORICAL NOTES
10th CENT. Castiglione is referenced as a fortified village named Castello Chiugino. 1550-1647 The Duchy of Castiglione and Chiugi was established. The village enjoyed its age of greatest prosperity. 1870 The Municipality assumed ownership of the Ducal Palace. ORIGINS OF THE NAME The name is derived from the medieval fortress, the Rocca, which was erected during the mid-thirteenth century and was called Castello del Leone (“Castle of the Lion”) due to its pentagonal shape inspired by the constellation Leo.
148
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
Lake Trasimeno beans: a tiny legume with a peel so thin that it’s almost invisible, boasting a buttery and particularly pronounced flavour. Excellent for bruschetta, soups, and entrées made with freshwater fish. It’s considered a Slow Food product. EVENTS Tulip Festival: April International Kite and Hot-air Balloon Convention: April-May Patronal feast, Saint Mary Magdalene: 22 July International Folklore Festival: July-August Trasimeno Blues Festival: July-August
"...the truth depends on a walk around the lake" (Wallace Stevens)
INTERESTING FACTS
Every year when spring arrives, in April, the Tulip Festival is held at Castiglione del Lago. On this occasion, the entire village adorns itself with tulips for the competition dedicated to blossom-filled balconies, windows and squares. The highlight of the event is the competition of floats covered entirely in tulips.
SPELLO PERUGIA (PG) ALTITUDE 280 m.a.s.l. INHABITANTS 8,554 TOURISM INFO IAT Tel. +39 0742 301009 [comune.spello.pg.it]
SPELLO CITY OF ART AND FLOWERS
SPELLO CAN BE REACHED FROM ROMA IN 1H50' PERUGIA IN 30'
Spello is a jewel with all the colourfulness and fragrance of a million flowers. In fact, this is the home of the famous Flower festival held on Corpus Christi, when the streets of the village are transformed into a giant bed of flowers over 1.5 km in length. In addition to the religious artworks made with millions of flower petals, there are also true masterpieces, including the frescoes by Pinturicchio and Pietro Perugino, and the ciborium by Rocco Tommaso da Vicenza in the church of Santa Maria Maggiore, a veritable art gallery.
DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 1.3 km ROMA TERMINI Roma Tiburtina Orte Narni-Amelia Terni Baiando di Spoleto Spoleto Foligno Spello Assisi Bastia Perugia Ponte S. Giovanni PERUGIA 153
HISTORICAL NOTES
7th CENT. B.C. Spello’s origins date back to the ancient Umbri. 41 B.C Octavian Augustus colonised the village. 1238 Frederick II destroyed the town, which had become caught up in the battle between the Empire and the Papacy. 1484-1583 The Baglioni family of Perugia enriched the village with Renaissance masterpieces. 1829 The return to the Papal State marked Spello’s downfall. ORIGINS OF THE NAME The name seems to be derived from the town’s mythical founder, Ispeo Pelisio, one of the companions of Aeneas who got lost during the journey. 154
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
The extra-virgin olive oil is one of Italy’s most renowned. Other exceptional products include the black truffle harvested in the local woods, and the Millefiori Honey, which has an outstanding clarity and aroma. EVENTS Feast of the Ascension: May Patronal feast, St. Felix Bishop and Martyr: 18 May Infiorata Flower Festival: Corpus Christi Encounters on the Streets: July and August Olive and Bruschetta Festival: first weekend of December
"Hail, green Umbria, and you the fount of god Clitumnus! (Giosuè Carducci)
INTERESTING FACTS
Just a few minutes’ drive from Spello are the Fonti del Clitunno (“Springs of Clitumnus”). These springs have been a source of inspiration for many writers and poets: Pliny the Younger, Virgil, Poussin, Corot, Byron, and Giosuè Carducci, who immortalised them in his famous ode. In antiquity it was believed that the river was so clear that it made the oxen that drank from it more white. .
ABRUZZO TAGLIACOZZO
TAGLIACOZZO L' AQUILA (AQ) ALTITUDE 740 m.a.s.l. INHABITANTS 6,464 TOURISM INFO Azienda di Promozione Turistica Piazza dell’Obelisco Tel. +39 0863 610318 [comune.tagliacozzo.aq.it]
TAGLIACOZZO THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF MARSICA
TAGLIACOZZO CAN BE REACHED FROM ROMA IN 1H20' PESCARA IN 2H'
Cited by Dante in his Inferno, in 1268 Tagliacozzo was the stage for the famous battle between Conradin and Charles I of Anjou, King of Sicily. This battle marked the Kingdom of Sicily’s destiny to be ruled by the Angevins, on the side of the Guelphs, over the Swabians, supported by the Ghibellines, thus favouring the temporal power of the Pope for centuries. The village has a rich history, boasting numerous churches and a splendid square, one of the most harmonious and picturesque in all of central Italy.
DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 650m ROMA TERMINI Tivoli
V. dell'Aniene-Mandela-Sambuci
Carsoli Tagliacozzo Avezzano Sulmona Chieti PESCARA C.LE 161
HISTORICAL NOTES
11th CENT. First inhabited settlement. 1268 The Battle of Tagliacozzo, Charles I of Anjou, King of Sicily, defeated Conradin of Swabia. ca. 1400 Control of Tagliacozzo passed from the Kingdom of Naples to the Papal State. 1806 After feudalism, the town lost its status as the capital of Marsica. ORIGINS OF THE NAME The name means cut in the rock - from the Latin talus (“cut”) and cotium (“rock”) - and it would appear to indicate the fissure that splits the mountain, in which the urban settlement was established.
162
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
Homemade egg pasta, cornmeal polenta, lamb and veal, and the centuries-old tradition of pork processing, with sausages, loin, coppa, and liver, not to mention salami, jowl bacon, and pancetta. EVENTS Patronal feast, St. Anthony of Padua: last Sunday in August Feast of the Holy Face of Jesus: Sunday after Easter Commemoration of Ascanio Mari: second week of July International Folklore Convention: last week of July Dumpling with Chickpeas Festival: beginning of August Feast of Our Lady of the Orient: mid-September
"Abruzzo strong and kind" (Primo Levi)
INTERESTING FACTS
A On Divine Mercy Sunday, or rather the Sunday after Easter, Tagliacozzo celebrates the Feast of the Holy Face of Jesus. An ancient tradition that unites all the inhabitants of Tagliacozzo, during which over a thousand traditional sweets (cavallucci and colombelle) made by the Benedictine nuns are passed out and eaten as a sign of brotherhood.
CAMPANIA ALBORI-VIETRI SUL MARE
ALBORI VIETRI SUL MARE SALERNO (SA) ALTITUDE 300 m.a.s.l. INHABITANTS 8,475 TOURISM INFO Comune Tel. +39 089 763811 [comune.vietri-sul-mare. sa.it]
ALBORI VIETRI SUL MARE A WHITE OUTPOST OF PARADISE ALBORI VIETRI SUL MARE CAN BE REACHED FROM NAPOLI IN 1H12' SALERNO IN 8'
A cluster of white houses overlooking the sea, built according to the defensive strategies of the Arabs. You can almost hear the voices of the crew of the pirate Hayreddin Barbarossa, the leader of the Moors, who terrorised the village with his raids during the sixteenth century. Under the threat of constant attacks by Saracen pirates, the inhabitants decided to take refuge on higher ground, where they built the town as we know it today, protected by the mountain’s embrace.
DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 3 km NAPOLI GARIBALDI Napoli Gianturco Napoli S. Giovanni-Barra Pietrarsa-S. G. a Cremano Portici-Ercolano Torre Del Greco Santa Maria La Bruna Torre Annunziata C.le Pompei Scafati Angri Pagani Nocera Inferiore Cava De' Tirreni Vietri sul mare-Amalfi Duomo-Via Vernieri SALERNO 169
HISTORICAL NOTES
9th CENT. First settlement in the area of Àlbori. 1324 First references to the hamlet of Àlbori. ca. 1500 The bread tax was instituted, according to which the bread at the hamlet could only be sold to the contractor or the person delegated by him. 1610 The parish of Àlbori was established. ORIGINS OF THE NAME The origins of the place name are uncertain, but may be derived from Arvo, an argonaut in pursuit of Jason, who, attracted by its beauty, is said to have settled there after a storm.
170
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
As Goethe said, this is the land where the lemons bloom. In fact, here they have special flavour and fragrance (they’re known as sfusati), and are used to make the classic limoncello of the Amalfi coast. EVENTS Patronal feast, Saint Margaret: 20 July Albori Summer, musical performances: July-August Living Nativity Scene: Christmas period
"...a terrace overlooking infinity" (Fabrizio Caramagna)
INTERESTING FACTS
Pottery is a real art, and the inhabitants of Vietri sul Mare know this well, as it has been widely practised since the Middle Ages. Vietri ceramics, with their characteristic polychrome glass paste, and decorated with patterns that include Islamic art motifs, were marketed throughout the Mediterranean region. To the point that they were even able to sustain the local economy during the darkest eras, like the sixteenth century, when the Turkish raids became increasingly frequent and tragic.
CALABRIA CHIANALEA
CHIANALEA REGGIO CALABRIA (RC) ALTITUDE 1500 m.a.s.l. INHABITANTS 5,670 TOURISM INFO Town Hall Tel. +39 0965 754003 [comune.scilla.rc.it]
CHIANALEA THE LITTLE VENICE SCILLA CAN BE REACHED FROM PAOLA IN 1h30' REGGIO CALABRIA IN 24'
According to Greek mythology, this is where Scylla lived, the six-headed sea monster that made life so difficult for good Ulysses, along with its voracious neighbour, Charybdis. Sailors be warned, therefore. Who knows what may lurk in these waters... But above all, let’s be sure to remember the legend that renders this land and this sea so beautiful. Without forgetting the swordfish linguine, which Homer certainly would have appreciated.
DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 1 km PAOLA Amantea Lamezia Terme Centrale Vibo Valentia – Pizzo Mileto Rosarno Gioia Tauro Palmi Bagnara Scilla Villa S. Giovanni REGGIO C. C.LE 177
HISTORICAL NOTES
1060 After a lengthy siege of the castle, the Normans occupied the village and drove out the Byzantines. 1734 The Spaniards retook control of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies from the Austrians. 1827 The Bourbons regained control of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies after a brief interruption by Napoleon. ORIGINS OF THE NAME The name is derived from Piana delle Galee (“Plain of the Galleys� - ancient boats). It was also known as Canalea, because the houses are separated by small canal-like lanes that descend into the Tyrrhenian Sea.
178
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
Swordfish is the undisputed king of the table: whether baked, pan fried, or added to macaroni sauce. It must always be accompanied by a local wine made from Zibibbo grapes. The area is also well known for its high quality verdello lemons. EVENTS Patronal feast, St. Roch: 16 August Swordfish Festival: August The Scylla Festival: May-October
"Scylla out of the hollow vessel snatched six of my companions" (Omero, Odissea, canto XII, VI secolo a.C.)
INTERESTING FACTS
Chianalea is known as The Little Venice: a mosaic of houses directly overlooking on the sea and divided by narrow alleyways. Fishing is the village’s main activity, especially swordfish, and is carried out with luntri, the typical local row boats, or with the more modern passarelle, motorboats with observation antenna (falere) and scaffolding at the bow.
SICILY CEFALÙ
CEFALÙ PALERMO (PA) ALTITUDE 0-270 m.a.s.l. INHABITANTS 13,790 TOURISM INFO Tourism Office Tel. +39 0921 924130 [comune.cefalu.pa.it]
CEFALÙ SEA, LEGENDS AND CINEMA
CEFALÙ CAN BE REACHED FROM PALERMO IN 54' MESSINA IN 2H
The beauty of Cefalù could only have been created by the hand of God, with its postcard-blue sea, its fortress overlooking the town, its Arab-Norman Byzantine cathedral that houses the body of its founder, Roger II, the first king of Sicily. A mausoleum fortress that brings together various cultures. Just like Cefalù itself, a land of myths, legends and... cinema: in fact, it was here that the most evocative scenes from Giuseppe Tornatore’s film Nuovo Cinema Paradiso were filmed in 1988.
DISTANCE FROM THE STATION 900m PALERMO Termini Imerese Cefalù S. Stefano di Camastra S. Agata di Militello Capo d’Orlando Patti Barcellona-Castroreale Milazzo MESSINA C.LE 185
HISTORICAL NOTES
5th CENT. B.C. Construction of the town walls and the temple of Diana. 254 B.C. Cefalù was conquered by the Romans. 858 The Arabs took control of the town. 1131 After being conquered by the Normans, the Cathedral of Cefalù was founded. 1839 Cefalù had 81 vessels, constituting the fifth largest fishing fleet in Sicily. ORIGINS OF THE NAME From the Greek Kephaloidion (meaning “head”) due to its promontory. The Romans called it Coephaledium, while Arabs knew it as Gafludi, meaning “fortified town”. 186
TYPICAL PRODUCTS
Certain flavours found in Sicilian cannoli are inspired by Arab influences. In fact, according to legend, the recipe originated with the Saracens, and was passed down to the Romans. Today it’s a world famous example of Italy’s renowned pastry arts. EVENTS Vampa di San Ciusieppi: Spectacular bonfire, 19 March. Corpus Christi Festival: a massive procession, first half of June. Patronal Feast, Holy Saviour: 6 August Cefalù Encounters: music, books, theatre, exhibitions, August-September.
"The climate's delicate; the air most sweet; fertile the isle.". (William Shakespeare)
INTERESTING FACTS
On 6 August, during the patronal feast, in addition to the traditional liturgies, processions, luminaries and whatnot, the secular rite of ‘Ntinna a mare is also celebrated. This consists of a competition in which the participants have to reach a flag affixed to the end of a pole (a ship’s mast) suspended over the water from the quay of the pier, and covered with soap and tallow (animal fat used to make candles). For real equilibrists only!
LEGAL INFORMATION The travel times indicated/represented in this publication are indicative. The duration of the journey varies depending on the transport service used and may vary. For more information visit www.trenitalia.com The events mentioned in the individual locations are subject to confirmation by the local authorities each year. For further information, please visit the official website of the municipality of reference.
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Translation by VERTO GROUP Srl Photos © FS Italiane | Photo © stock.adobe.com Brisighella, cover and page 116: © Daniela Laghi Brisighella, pages 120-121: © Silvano Cantoni Campo Ligure, pages 60,63, 64-65: © Stefano Siro Castiglione del Lago, pages 149, 150-151: © Andrea Pula Egna, pages 92, 95, 96-97: © Alberto Ceolan Orta San Giulio, pages 31, 32-33: © Massimiliano Andreazza Orta San Giulio, page 28: © Laura Pratta Venzone, pages 108, 111, 112-113: © Luigi Stefanutti Printing Grafica Nappa | May 2019 This publication was printed on FSC ® certified paper
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